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Ring in Tang Gong

Sep30

Location: 111 N Atlantic Blvd #350, Monterey Park, CA 91754. (626) 888-5188

Date: August 14, 2019

Cuisine: Cantonese Dimsum

Rating: Great new made to order Dimsum

Our friend Derek has been the manager variously at Elite Seafood, World Seafood, and China Red.

Now he’s helping open up Monterey Park newcomer, Tang Gong.

In an era when the Cantonese Palaces are closing, it’s rare to have a new one opening up — including all the glitzy Hong Kong style trappings. These places cater (haha) to big Chinese weddings.

And a huge private room (where we were located).

Derek posing with Yarom.

The dim sum menu. Like most Cantonese places, there is banquet at night. They had just opened a few days before when we arrived.

Chicken Feet with House Sauce. Sometimes this is called XO sauce. It’s not exactly the same as regular XO sauce.

Beef Tripe with Scallion and Ginger. Sounds gross. Looks gross. Tastes great. Chewy, yes. But delicious.

Steamed Pork Ribs with Garlic. These also aren’t the best looking items in the world, and there are the little knuckle-like bones in there, but the meat taste was fantastic. Very juicy and full of pork flavor.

Har Gow. Shrimp dumpling. Classic, straightforward, and enjoyable as always.

Pork and Shrimp Shui Mai. I always order the classics when checking out a new place. These were solid, much like Elite’s.

Fried Pork Dumpling. These have that chewy fried mochi shell and delicate pork inside. Really delicious.

Sea Cucumber and Dried Scallop Dumpling. I hadn’t realized this was “in a soup” (should have looked at the pictures better). This makes it hard to share but it was scrumptious. Lots of interesting umami flavor.

Pan Fried Leek Cake. There is some shrimp or something in here too. I love these for their greasy shell texture. Pretty much a “Beijing Pie.”

XLB (Juicy Pork Bun). Soup filled lovelies. Solid renditions of these. Not the great kind you get at a specialty house where they make them constantly fresh, but still very enjoyable with the vinegar.

Baked Crispy Pork Bun. 10/10. Light slightly sweet crispy shell, airy interior, and sweet BBQ pork. Awesome.

Shredded Duck and Seat Pea Rice Roll. Interesting. The peas are either an interesting or distracting textural element alongside the chewy soft chow fun.

BBQ Pork and Corn Rice Roll. More straightforward and I think I enjoyed a bit more.

Seafood Salad Roll. Fried with a creamy “seafood salad” inside. Delicious though.

Baked BBQ Pork Pastry. The buttery pastry version with the same BBQ pork.

House special lobster. Good, typical.

Peking Duck. The meat itself was good, although maybe it could have been a touch crispier. I prefer the pancakes to the buns, but the hoisin was good.

Crispy BBQ Pork. Interesting pork pretty. Quite delicious.

BBQ Chicken. Super succulent chicken.

Traditional Beef Chow Fun. Pan fried noodles with beef.

Braised E-Fu Mein. I liked these crispy noodles even better. Tons of flavor and very addictive (viva la grease!)

Canton Style Steamed Greens. Very tasty.

Beet Greens (you can see the purple color) steamed with garlic. These were more bitter and I didn’t like them as much as the straight up greens.

White Chocolate Peanut Gelato — I hadn’t made a White Chocolate base in a while so in light of my rent “experiments” in chocolate took another pass at it — came out awesome, using all Valrhona Ivoire chocolate layered with house-made Peanut Dulcey Ganache — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #peanut #WhiteChocolate #valrhona #ganache

Hpnotiq Blue Hawaiian Sorbetto — like a frozen cocktail — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Thai Coconut Milk, Pineapple, Lime, and Hpnotiq liqueur –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #Hpnotiq #BlueHawaiian #pineapple #coconut #lime

Overall, very solid new place. Service (thanks Derek) was of course perfect. We loved the big private room. Dimsum was “typical good” very much like Elite or Derek’s time at World Seafood. We didn’t have too much that was really novel, but the execution on all the typical dishes was excellent. I want to see how they settle into the rhythm of things in a couple weeks and return.

For more LA dining reviews click here,

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Dim sum, dimsum, Gelato, hedonists, lunch, Lunch Quest, Monterey Park, SGV, Tang Gong, Tony Lau

Providence Chef’s Table

Sep27

Restaurant: Providence [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

Location: 5955 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 460-4170

Date: August 12, 2019

Cuisine: Cal French

Rating: Awesome food, awesome night

I usually make it to Providence about once a year, and so we return with the Foodie Club for a small, epic Chef’s Table night.

While the colors are different, Providence still looks a lot like Patina to me — as the layout is basically the same.

This is the view from the chef’s special tasting room — adjacent to the kitchen in it’s own little nook.
Our special menu tonight.

One of the few places in town that still has elegant table wares.

Ron brought: NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 167eme. JG 96. The new release of Krug Grande Cuvée “167eme Édition” is stellar. The wine is from the base year of 2011 and utterly transcends that vintage, but, of course, it includes nearly two hundred different wines in the blend, with the oldest reserves dating all the way back to the 1995 vintage. Fully forty-two percent of the cuvée this year is made up of reserve wines. The cépages for the 167eme Édition is forty-seven percent pinot noir, thirty-six percent chardonnay and seventeen percent pinot meunier. The wine shows its lovely preponderance of pinot noir on the nose, wafting from the glass in a beautifully complex blend of apple, white peach, a touch of patissière, very complex soil tones, caraway seed and a gently floral contribution in the upper register from the pinot meunier in the blend. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, complex and nicely broad-shouldered, with great depth at the core, refined mousse, bright, seamless acids and outstanding focus and grip on the very long, complex and beautifully balanced finish. This is simply outstanding and should age effortlessly for fifty to seventy-five years!

Yellow tomato soup shot. Bright like a gazpacho (but not so vinegary).

Rolled salmon with salmon roe on crisps — delicious!

Mussels with curry sauce. A sort of deconstructed Moules Frites dish.

Crispy seafood taco in shiso (relative). Scrumptious.

Crab tartlet.

Cucumber wrapped oyster.

Wagyu “cigar.” Like a super taquito — crispy and amazing.

From my cellar: 1993 Robert Ampeau & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. 93 points. From a late Domaine release. Golden color. A lot of Wows on the table from the first smells. This bouquet had it all. Orange peel, flint, lemon curd, grass, flowers, very deep and complex. The palate was crisp as well with excellent freshness and length.

Kanpachi. Nasturtium, espelette, lime. Very bright flavors, soft textures, with a creaminess. Absolutely delicious.

Bread and (fancy) butter and salt.

The bread even comes with its own “about the bread” sheet!

Coleman farms celtuce, geoduck clam, box crab, osetra caviar — amazing! One of the best dishes of the night.

Erick brought: 2006 Domaine Leflaive Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d’Âne. JG 91. The 2006 Meursault here is a bit cooler than the previous two wines, and shows no signs of alcohol poking through on the finish. The nose is very lovely, as it offers up notes of pear, apple, almond paste, flowers and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, fine and focused, with a lovely base of soil, crisp acids and an almost crystalline profile, with good length and grip on the finish. This is a very good bottle that is rather atypical in the context of this vintage chez Leflaive in its more classic profile, though the wine is still quite forward stylistically. This will make a great restaurant wine list option.

Prawns live in this tank.

Peel ‘n’ eat spot prawn, shiso, basil, nuoc cham. You just eat this with your hands, wrapped in the herbs. Gave it a slightly Vietnamese vibe. Great prawn, perfectly fresh and cooked.

Aori ika, haricots, hazelnut, ogo. Vaguely Japanese and very pleasant “salad.”

Ron brought: 2013 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. VM 93. Pale yellow. Lovely purity to the aromas of nectarine and flowers. Sweet and fine-grained, showing a compellingly silky texture to its stone fruit and nutty oak flavors. Finishes sedate and long, with lovely balance. Really seamless for the vintage.

Black cod, artichoke, mint. Nice buttery white fish. Very “new French.”

Salmon belly, porcini, zucchini.

With the sauce. This cut of salmon is particularly rich and tender, very nice seared like this.

From my cellar: 2001 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares. VM 94. The 2001 De Vogüé Bonnes Mares exhibited uncommon depth and richness in the luxuriousness of its vibrant fruit, with a personality that was delicate yet powerful. Still very much an infant, it was a privilege to catch this gorgeous wine in its youth.

Ron brought: 2003 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares. VM 91. Medium red-ruby. Blackberry, violet, mocha and bitter chocolate on the slightly roasted nose. Huge, sweet and expressive, with extravagantly rich flavors of currant, blueberry, chocolate and spices. Quite velvety and sensual for this wine, thanks to its unusually fat, broad texture. Finishes with suave but serious tannins.

Duck — we added this as a supplement.

Larry brought: 1999 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Masseto Toscana IGT. VM 95. The 1999 Masseto is a cool, inward wine graced with exquisite finesse, but it still needs a few years in bottle to show its potential. That said, it is pretty spectacular even today. This is a vintage that will appeal to readers who enjoy firm, structured wines. (Drink between 2013-2024)

A5 Wagyu, magic myrrna potato, nori. Meat hidden under leaves.

And another supplement, because we had so much big red wine left, we got a second (different) A5!

Cheese cart. Love me the cart and you so rarely see it now.

My prep of gooey strong cheeses.

Bread for the cheese.

And a second cheese course!

Mango, makrut, finger lime. Really interesting texture, partially frozen (beneath). Delicious.

Peach, jam mousse, lemon verbena. This was my favorite of the desserts, extremely fruity and refreshing.

Ban this dessert. Harry’s berries strawberries, pistachio.

With the strawberry sauce. The pistachio was formed into a kind of mousse and felt like, and even almost tasted like, foie gras. Superb.

Crunchy pastry.

Bon bons. Chocolates, meringues, and jellies.

Parting gift of a bit of Zucchini cake or something for the next morning.

This was a great night and tons of fun. The chef’s table is by far the best way to do Providence, and the total tab wasn’t even that bad as it was no corkage monday — even with our Chef’s Tasting Menu and a bunch of supplements. With Melisse gone, this is now the only remaining 90s/00s style elegant white table Cal French spot left in LA. Good thing it’s great!

Service was (as usual) superb too tonight — as were our bevy of wines. 7 for 4 people. Didn’t feel the fastest in the morning!

For more LA dining reviews click here,

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Burgundy, California French, Chef's Table, Foodie Club, Providence, Seafood, Wine

Cali Pinot Kali

Sep25

Restaurant: Kali [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

Location: 5722 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 871-4160

Date: August 9, 2019

Cuisine: New American French

Rating: Fake Pinot is still Fake

It’s been a while since I made it to Kali to visit my friend Chef Kevin Meehan — doesn’t seem like so long but time flies — and so with him having earned a Michelin star and our Sauvages group heading there for gasp… fake pinot (New World Pinot Noir) I figured I’d join in.

The interior is more or less the same, but I don’t remember the lovely bright blue — maybe because I’ve never been here during the day before.

NV Pehu Simonet Champagne Grand Cru Face Nord Rosé. JG 90. The Pehu Simonet “Face Nord” non-vintage Brut Rosé is composed of a blend of seventy percent pinot noir, six percent still red pinot noir and twenty-four percent chardonnay. Like all of David Pehu’s wines, the vins clairs here do not go through malo, including the still red wine in the Rosé blend. As the last disgorgement (January 2016) was base year 2012, I am assuming this is base year 2013. The wine offers up a lovely nose of tangerine, discreet strawberry, the steely minerality so typical of Verzenay, rye bread and a delicate touch of spice in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still quite racy, with a good core, pinpoint bubbles and very good length and grip on the still quite youthful finish. This is still tight on the palate and will be far more generous with another year’s worth of bottle age. Good juice that should age very well indeed.

2016 Tablas Creek Esprit Blanc de Tablas. VM 93. Pale straw-gold. Intense, mineral-accented Meyer lemon, nectarine and pear skin aromas are complemented by a deeper honey nuance. Tightly wound citrus and orchard fruit flavors unfurl slowly with air, picking up a suave floral character and a hint of chalky minerality. The impressively long, incisive finish shows outstanding clarity and leaves behind lively citrus zest and honeysuckle notes.

Pacific Gold Oysters. Cucumber Mignonette.

2012 Jean Bourdy Chardonnay Côtes du Jura. 92 points.

2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Le Banc. VM 88. Palish, green-tinged yellow. Aromas of pear, minerals and wild herbs reminded me a bit of Benedictine. On the lean side but boasts lovely juicy cut to its lemon and lime flavors. No shortage of acidity here.

agavin: even though the rating is lower (because of the strange new world inflation) this was by far the best white. By far.

Uni toast — love uni!

2008 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch Vineyard. VM 92. Bright red. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, strawberry liqueur, dried flowers and Asian spices. Silky, bright and precise, but with good depth and power to its red berry and cherry flavors. Really expand with air, finishing with sweet tannins, tangy minerality and impressive length. If your impression of the K-B wines ossified around the 2004 vintage, you should check this one out.

2007 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch Vineyard. VM 93. Vivid red. Spicy black raspberry and cherry skin aromas are complicated by smoky minerals, anise and a suave blood orange quality. Fleshy, sweet red and dark berry flavors display liqueur-like depth and power, picking up candied rose on the back end. The refreshingly bitter finish leaves tangy berry skin notes behind. Along with the Kanzler, this is the most energetic of this year’s line-up.

2007 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Amber Ridge Vineyard. VM 90. Glass-staining ruby. Powerful nose combines cassis, boysenberry, rose and smoky minerals. The deepest and most brooding of this set of releases, with palate-coating dark berry liqueur flavors and good back-end cling. Finishes with a strong echo of cassis. Fans of powerhouse pinots will go for this, and it does make an impression, but I prefer the vivacity of the other single-vineyard bottlings.

Black barely risotto. Black garlic, Fiscalini cheese. A very nice whole grain with a creamy garlic herb vibe. This is a Kevin classic and he’s been making it as long as I’ve known him.
2010 Marcassin Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard. VM 91. Crushed flowers, herbs, dried cherries, tobacco and anise abound in the 2010 Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard. I am a bit surprised by how forward the flavors are. A distinctly floral/savory character dominates, while fruit expression, freshness and textural richness are much less evident. It’s hard to see the 2010 drinking well for more than a handful of years based on the bottle I tasted.

2007 J. Rochioli Pinot Noir West Block. VM 91+. Deep red. Black raspberry and cherry on the nose, with complicating notes of potpourri and smoky minerals. Weighty dark fruit flavors coat the palate, turning more tangy with aeration. The finish is broad, sweet and impressively long but not as defined as the other pinots. This was the slowest to open of this set, and should benefit from another few years of patience.

2008 Kistler Pinot Noir Cuvée Elizabeth Bodega Headlands. VM 95. Lurid ruby. Complex, deeply spicy aromas of raspberry, fresh flowers, white pepper and Asian spices; showing a really exotic character. Then impressively concentrated and rich, but with energetic lift to its sweet red fruit preserve and floral pastille flavors. Wonderfully suave and high-pitched pinot with a vibrant, very persistent finish that refuses to let up.

agavin: hot, too much alcohol for my taste.

Duck Breast. Liberty Farms/ Whole Wheat Spatzle / Black Mission Figs.
2008 Pisoni Pinot Noir Estate. VM 90. Vivid ruby. Lively aromas of crushed red berries, spicecake and cracked pepper. At once velvety and firm, with energetic black raspberry and cherry flavors accentuated by pepper and herbs. Smooth and sweet on the finish, which features fine-grained tannins and a kiss of candied rose.

2007 Rhys Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard. JG 93+. This was the first opportunity I had found to taste the 2007 Skyline pinot and it is a lovely bottle in the making. The first class nose offers up a complex mélange of cassis, cola, woodsmoke, a great base of stony soil tones and a nice touch of spicy oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full and just starting to blossom, with excellent mid-palate depth, lovely focus and balance, moderate tannins and excellent length and grip on the bouncy and beautifully poised finish. I would still try to exercise a bit of restraint and let this wine fully start showing off its secondary and tertiary layers of complexity, but would also understand those who cannot defer gratification any longer and would like to drink this lovely bottle today! But, this wine is emphatically still climbing, and as good as it is to drink right now, it will still improve if left alone in the cellar just a bit longer.

2007 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard. VM 94+. Inky ruby. Potent aromas of blackberry, boysenberry and dried rose, with exotic Indian spice and gingerbread nuances adding complexity. Deep, fleshy dark berry flavors show liqueur-like depth and intensity, with slow-building tannins adding grip and structure. Develops more vibrancy and red fruit character with aeration and finishes with outstanding clarity and sappy persistence. This is another ’07 from Williams-Selyem that calls for patience.

Dry Aged Rib Eye. Potato Confit / Baby Leeks / Charred Onion. Traditionally Kevin has used Flannery beef.

2004 Marcassin Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard. VM 95+. Deep red-ruby color. Initially reticent nose opened spectacularly to show raspberry, mocha, minerals and smoke, along with sexy underbrush and forest floor elements. Began broad but closed and hiding its sweetness but with aeration showed outstanding volume, a seductively spherical texture and a restrained but nonetheless compelling sweetness of raspberry and underbrush flavors. Denser and finer-grained than the Blue Slide Ridge bottling; not obviously superior today but will probably surpass it five years down the road. Finishes with outstanding length.

agavin: woah, if the online price is right, you could just swap this out for a Romanee St Vivant or something! (and have a much better wine)

2004 Kistler Pinot Noir Cuvée Catherine. VM 93. Dark violet. Intensely aromatic nose offers powerful blackberry and plum compote aromas. Very fresh in the mouth (the pH is 3.4, Kistler says), with vibrant red and dark berry flavors and taut minerality. Dry, focused and pure on the finish, with outstanding persistence and lingering dark berry flavors. Serious pinot: a great marriage of sweet fruit and soil tones

2006 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Melville Vineyard. VM 93. Hazy, medium red. Intensely flora bouquet of dried red berries, smoked meat, minerals and musky herbs. Strawberry and cherry flavors are complemented by floral pastille and Asian spices, with silky tannins adding support. Already showing impressive complexity, not to mention excellent finishing lift and cling. The most elegant of these pinots.

2003 Gryphon Pinot Noir Reserve. 93 points. Wow! Pinot on steroids. I don’t know what to make of this. A tannic beast of a Pinot with a nose to die for. I much preferred breathing this than drinking it. Not that it was offensive, but the fruit was muted. Beautiful nose.

agavin: apparently very rare.

American cheese plate. Very pretty.

I made and brought these of course:

White Chocolate Peanut Gelato — I hadn’t made a White Chocolate base in a while so in light of my rent “experiments” in chocolate took another pass at it — came out awesome, using all Valrhona Ivoire chocolate layered with house-made Peanut Dulcey Ganache — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #peanut #WhiteChocolate #valrhona #ganache

As an interesting aside, after the meal John and I went over to Salt and Straw Ice Cream (just down the street) and sampled 5 flavors. Interesting just a few minutes after having my own “work.” And while S&S is some good ice cream, and despite the theoretically interesting flavors they offer, it was all so creamy and mild without the distinct intense rendition of the target flavor that my gelato has. Probably this is mostly due to the colder temp, higher fat content, lower flavoring ratio, and ingredient choices.

Anyway, just tooting my own horn.
Back to Kali, my wine notes.

And the lineup.

Overall, this was a fun lunch, and the food was as usual extremely well executed. I was just disappointed that it was so few courses (really only 3 savory courses) and that all of them were “old favorites” I’ve had many times before. Now don’t get me wrong, they were all pretty delicious, but I crave variety and I’ve certainly had more off the beaten menu meals from Kevin.

The wines were okay. Not going to convert me away from Burgundy or anything, and in fact I don’t really “get” New World Pinot. At best, they are like juicier versions of a lesser young Red Burgundy. There just isn’t that earthy tone from the more complex soil in the grape’s native homeland. And they aren’t really cheap either. But there was some pleasant berry notes here, particularly it being a lunch and all.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (1)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, California French, Gelato, Kevin Meehan, lunch, Melrose, Sauvages

The Last of Us Part II – Release Date Reveal Trailer

Sep24

It’s been a while since we heard too much about The Last of Us part II, but rest assured that Naughty Dog has been plugging away full steam on what promises to be a second epic installment. So, today (9/24/19) they announced that the game will be available next year on February 21, 2020 and we got this juicy new cinematic trailer:

Ellie has grown up, and is making choices of her own, plus, after some degree of absence, we’re reminded that that Joel still has her back too. Looks gorgeous, creepy, and hyper violent.

Any which way – can’t wait!

TLOU being hands down the best story based video game of all time and a personal favorite of mine means this is right up there as my most eagerly awaited announced game.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Games

Tagged as: Naughty Dog, The Last of Us part II, Trailer, Video Games

Hedonistic Majordomo

Sep23

Restaurant: Majordomo [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 1725 Naud St, Los Angeles, CA 90012 (323) 545-4880

Date: August 8, 2019

Cuisine: Korean Fusion

Rating: Big dishes amazing

It’s with gigantic expectation that NY restaurateur David Chang opened his first LA outpost last year and since then it’s become a regular foodie and wine destination among my friends. Tonight is my fourth visit, but my first time with the Hedonists — not that I don’t see them several times a week elsewhere. We also had along Elisabeth An from Crustacean.

Looking on the map, I was pretty skeptical of the weird between Chinatown and Dodger’s Stadium location — a totally annoying spot for me to get to during traffic! Two brutal hours!

The area is extremely warehousey, much like the “Arts District” but even newer. This particular time, dropping off at night, we joked about our life expectancy.

The have a sort of hipster city built down here out of old warehouses.

With lots of bespoke graffiti.

And Majordomo, of course.

Which has a pretty big enclosed and outside space (which we ate in this third time). Have to say, the outside space was actually preferable. Less crowded and quieter.

As you can see.

Inside is one of those cavernous loud warehouse spaces.

High naked ceilings. Don’t come here when it’s raining! They also have the currently hip bathroom setup with the coed shared sinks exposed out in the main room. Not my thing. What if you want to clean up in private?

The current menu.

Larry brought: 1995 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. JG 95. The 1995 Krug in magnum is really starting to drink with style and grace, but it remains a wine that has just reached its plateau of maturity and has years and years of life still ahead of it. The lovely and quite classic nose wafts from the glass in a constellation of apple, peach, caraway seed, a lovely base of minerality, a touch of walnut, rye bread and a gently smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and complex, with a wide open attack, a fine core, elegant mousse and really lovely length and grip on the focused and classy finish. Fine juice.

Baja California Uni. Broken tofu, avocado, yuzu. The tofu was what the Koreans (I think) call Soon Tofu, the soft silky tofu — and probably my favorite type. It went very well with the uni, rich avocado and the tangy yuzu.

From my cellar: 2006 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot. JG 95. The 2006 Blanchots is also profound. The magical bouquet jumps from the glass in a blend of mineral, apple, lemon, grapefruit,, more mineral, a hint of anise and floral tones. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and very pure, with brilliant transparency, great cut and focus, and a magnificent long finish. Not much to say about this wine except wait for it to apogee before drinking it, as I have to imagine it will shut down for several years after bottling. But it will be humbling at its peak.

Bing is this Korean bread thing. Pretty much like a thick crepe or pita bread. They have various “toppings” you can get with the bing.

We got some free shaved chilled poultry liver.

Pork and Spicy Pineapple. I guess vaguely Hawaiian, but more or less like Char sui — and tasty at that — with pineapple and some spicy sauce.

Spicy Lamb. The lamb was vaguely Greek/Turkish or something with the yogurt and the stewed meat quality. Yummy though. The eggs were more complex and pretty excellent. You mash it up a bit to get the roe, egg, chips etc on the bing. I put the ham on at the same time for max effect and it was very good.

Marinated Mushrooms. Pistachio, radish. The pistachio turns out to be a paste underneath.

Stuffed Peppers. Benton’s sack sausage, buttermilk ranch. Hehe, I said sack. These are like Jalepeno poppers — sort of. Shishito poppers.

1995 Giorgio Pelissero Barbaresco. VM 88. Good medium red. Warm, smoky aromas of red and blackcurrants and earth. Lush, sweet and palate caressing; an easygoing, forward style of Barbaresco that could use more clarity and grip. The tannins are slightly dry but even, and there is good lingering sweet fruit. Drink over the next three or four years.

Crispy Butterball Potatoes, salsa seca, chili, peanuts. Sort of like a spicy potato granola mix? Tasty, and very seedy with a lot of crunch.

Fried Cauliflower. Fish sauce vinaigrette, red onion, cilantro. Cauliflower is the new Brussels Sprout. But I actually love the vegetable and particularly when paired with acid like this.

Marinated Black Cod. Hozon, bok choy, nectarine. A bit of a polarizing dish. I and several others thought it very moist and well cooked. Some thought it dull.

Jefferey brought: 2009 Château Beausejour (Duffau Lagarrosse). RP 100. This big wine (nearly 15% natural alcohol) is a blend of 77% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. It boasts an opaque blue/purple color along with a gorgeous bouquet of charcoal, incense, truffles, blackberry jam, black currants, raspberries and flowers. While enormous in the mouth, the limestone soils in which the grapes are grown give the wine good freshness as well as laser-like clarity and precision. Amazing to taste, this massive, super-concentrated powerhouse comes across as ethereal and almost feminine despite its extravagant fruit, density and richness. It is a modern day legend for sure! Anticipated maturity: 2025-2050+

Whole Steamed Rockfish. Sichuan black bean, herbs. Tasted good, but lots of bones.

White rice.

Macaroni & Chickpea. Hozon, black truffle.

And here’s the truffle. This was delicious, like cacio e pepe with black truffles. I ate a ton, despite the carbs and the fact that I can’t really digest chickpeas effectively.

Arnie brought: 2011 Sine Qua Non Syrah Patine Eleven Confessions Vineyard. VM 96. The 2011 Syrah Patine is deep, powerful and intense, with huge fruit and texture, especially within the context of the year. Mocha, plums, violets, bittersweet chocolate and dark spice meld into the deep, voluptuous finish. As good as the 2011 is, it could use another few years to fully meld together. The 2011 is 97% Syrah, 2% Roussanne and 1% Viognier, all from Eleven Confessions, done with 22% whole clusters and aged for 39 months in French oak barrels, 63% new. (Drink between 2018-2026)

We also pre ordered Boiled Whole Chicken (2-3 people) rice, morels, hand torn noodles.

The hand torn noodle soup was like some of the best (Chinese) mushroom noodle soup you’ll ever have, and they have amped it up with not only truffle butter.

Yarom brought: 2014 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon CCS Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard. RP 98. Another one of my favorites is the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon CCS, which is clone 4 from the To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville. This is aged in 100% new Darnajou and is one of the larger cuvées at 510 cases. Wonderfully sweet, velvety tannins, a big sweet nose of white flowers, blackberry and cassis along with cedar wood, charcoal and graphite are all present in this full-bodied opulent wine that also retains wonderful elegance. It finished at 14.6% alcohol and will drink beautifully now as well as over the next 15-20 years.

agavin: And a giant fruit and alchohol bomb like this finally has a food to go with it (see below).
If you go, you must order this even though it’s very expensive! Whole Plate Short Rib (4-6 people). Smoked bone-in APL-style ribs. Served with beef rice, shiso rice paper, ssämjang & condiments. Lettuce wraps — yay, no carbs. Kimchee, pickled daikon, and a spicy Korean paste that is delicious and salty.

The huge chunk of Texas style cow comes out on the cart with the stuff.

The carver not only did an awesome job carving, but later called me a “gelato god” so I’m a fan of hers forever :-).

The “thin sliced” mode, which was amazingly flavorful. The fattier end cap slices which were to die for tender.

And the knaw on the bone for extra flavor bones.

And some of it goes back into the kitchen and emerges as beef fried rice — crazy good.

Mixed up.

I brought gelato again. The staff remembered me (or more precisely the gelato) and were very excited. I live for the positive feedback.

Overall, we had a great time at Majordomo. You do need a decent sized party for the awesome large dishes and you need to preorder. One time, even when we got there at 6:45pm there were only 1 each of the beef and pork left! Tonight we had 8, which is perfect as the big dishes easily go around 8 ways and the smaller ones you can order two of.

The service and wine service were both spectacular. I was really surprised as these loud hipster places often don’t have good wine service but we were really taken care of and this added a lot to the evening. We had a great (large) table in the back corner of the patio and a huge unused table next to it for our gear, wines, etc. They were super attentive. Really unusually good service for this level.

The larger pre-order dishes like the rib and chicken are amazing and insane. Tonight the food seemed even better than the first time, even if we did have a lot of (delicious) carbs. Pastas and the fried rice were amazing too. Really liking everything about Majordomo other than the distance to get there.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or for epic Foodie Club meals, here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: bbq, BYOG, David Chang, DTLA, Gelato, hedonists, Korean Fusion, Majordomo, meet

Chun La Hao – Infernal Pot

Sep20

Restaurant: Chun La Hao Chong Qing Hot Pot

Location: 5701 Rosemead Blvd, Temple City, CA 91780. (626) 766-1230

Date: August 5, 2019 & May 16, 2021

Cuisine: Chong Qing Hot Pot

Rating: Tied for best hot pot I’ve ever had

After Yarom and I met up in March at the awesome Shancheng Lameizi for some fiery hot pot (which blows the boring mild hot pot out of… something) we decided to drag some more people to a different new, higher end Szechuan Hot Pot place.

Chun La Hao is located in the same Temple City mall as Grand Harbor and right across the street from Bistro Na. It hails from Chong Qing, the largest city in Szechuan and well known for its brazen, no holds barred take on spice.

They have bar style munchies and tea in the waiting area.

And a modern Chinese decor much like the aforementioned Bistro Na or Shancheng. It’s more spacious than either of Shancheng’s branches.

Our table for size was still a bit tight — for us big westerners.

The menu is the usual check sheet and with an extensive list of favorites and freakish culinary bits one can boil up. Aka duck intestine, black tripe, pork aorta and the like.

The have the best “snack bar” I’ve yet seen at a hot pot. Extensive munchies.

The usual kind of peanuts and crisps.

A big assortment of pickled things like spicy cucumbers, kimchee like stuff, etc.

And more weird crispy stuff.

Here are some I got. The cucumbers were great. The kimchee was very hot, even by my standards.

And some different “snacks” on 5/16/21.

From my cellar: NV Pierre Péters Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Cuvée de Réserve. JG 91+. As is customary with this bottling from Rodolphe Péters, the wine is a blend of fifty percent of its base year of 2014 and fifty percent from last year’s blend, which had gone into the family solera of reserve wines that dates back to 1988. The vins clairs here do not entirely go through malo as fifteen percent are non-malo wines, with the range raised in a variety of vessels, including barrels, stainless steel tanks and cement vats and the wine spend two years aging sur latte. The new release is very good indeed, offering up a youthful blend of apple, pear, hazelnut, chalky minerality, incipient pastry cream and spring flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, focused and full-bodied, with a good core, still pretty brisk acidity, frothy mousse and very good backend mineral drive on the long and nascently complex finish. This is very good today and will be even better with a couple of years in the cellar.

We ordered the maximum spicy classic Chongqing ox fat broth and a light mushroom broth for the losers.

Here it is all fired up, at the end too when the spice has taken over some of the wuss side.

Chun La Hao also has a big sauce bar. Bigger perhaps than HDL but a bit smaller than SL.

A slightly better view. There are all the classics here and more, plenty to make a great sauce. They lack a few of the weird (and delicious) fermented options at SL, but otherwise it’s pretty complete. All the base components are here. Spices, sesame oil and paste, soy sauces, vinegars, etc.

This is my “mild” (not really) vegetable sauce with a soy vinegar garlic base.

And my fiery sesame flame garlic “meat” sauce.

The presentation is cute. A red army truck brings the Veggie Combo Platter of various greens.

Oddly, no cabbage in the combo, so we ordered some.

Lotus root provides a nice crunch.

Lately I’ve taken to Square Bamboo Shoot as a source of great texture and fiber.

Mushroom Combo Platter serves up even more fiber.

Wood Ear Mushrooms.

The tofu combo platter brings handmade tofu, black tofu (which was kinda gross), fried beancurd and others.

Fish Filet was marinated. It looked pretty, but was filled with bones.

Cuttlefish dumplings look like sticks of wax, but cook up to be delectable chewy sticks with a hint of seafood.

Crab sticks.

Dumplings with roe — actually pretty darn good.

Raw beef with egg (you coat it in the egg and cook it).

Pig butt. Yup.

Luncheon Pork is one of my favorites and I got two orders. Basically spam, this stuff is soft and delicious.

Mini Sausage are fun.

Pork Meatballs were clearly house-made and the best I’ve had. Really tasty.

Fatty Beef. Delicious.

Beef Brisket. Moderately leaner.

Beef belly is also fatty and delicious.

Lamb shoulder was delicious. Too bad under all that spice one can barely tell the meats apart :-).

Probably also lamb shoulder or some other lamb cut.

Beef Tendon isn’t a white boy favorite, and is very gelatinous when cooked up, but tastes amazing (if you can handle the texture).

Pork is good too and needs to be cooked a bit longer.

A leaner beef cut.

It’s a bit crowded at the table and the uncooked food is on shelves at the edge of our alcove, a bit hard to get at.

Sure makes a big mess.

Check out the congealing spicy ox fat after it’s had a chance to cool down!

They have a funny timing game you can play once per table to “earn” a discount too.

Thai Red Curry Sorbetto — I made a version of this in 2017 and it was a dismal failure, but haunted me since and so this one is redemptive. Made a (no salt) red curry paste from scratch (chilies, lemongrass, galangal, cilantro roots, kaffir lime leaves, garlic, Asian shallots etc) and then cooked it into a pure Thai Coconut Milk base. Sweet and Spicy! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto#Thai #red #curry #spicy

Buko Pandan Gelato — Infused the milk with fresh Pandan Leaves and then crafted it into a dairy coconut base as my take on the Filipino favorite. Unusual and soothing. — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #buko #pandan #coconut

Overall, service was great. Decor is good. Snack bar is best in class. Sauce bar is an A-, but still great. Plating is the best I’ve seen at hot pot and the flavor was spectacular. If you can handle spicy hot pot, this is one of THE places to go. Seriously it’s as good as a similar place in Chengdu or Chongqing!

It should be noted that only 2 of the six of us (Yarom and I) were brave enough to eat from the spicy side. I ate entirely spicy, consequences be damned! It’s well worth it, but part of the experience is the catharsis and adrenaline rush. Expect coughing in reaction to the toxic fumes and insanely great heat. Some intestinal distress is nearly guaranteed.

Afterward, to cool down, we went across the street to Meet Fresh.

Counter order Asian Shave Ice place.

Very nice decor.

Shave ice with various beans and taro pudding and the like.

Super mango shave ice with sweetened milk and ice cream. Yum Yum! Plus some milk teas and the like.

Flan shave ice with ice cream, two kinds of flan, various jellies and jiggly bits, and all sorts of other cool stuff.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Chinese cuisine, Chongqing Hot Pot, Chun La Hao, hot pot, SGV, Sichuan, spicy, Szechuan Chinese, Szechuan Hot Pot

Mandarin Plaza Crawl

Sep18

Earlier in the year, Yarom and I hatched and plotted this particular all afternoon mega crawl at the Rowland Heights Mandarin Plaza — partially at least while sucking down some serious hot pot in said plaza. This place is far from LA proper, way out 40+ miles to the east but is in the heart of the “new Chinatown”.

Restaurant: Leung Kee

Location: 18908 E Gale Ave, Rowland Heights, CA 91748

Date: August 3, 2019

Cuisine: Chinese BBQ

Rating: check: roast pig before noon

We start at 11am, “meating” (haha) up at the former Sam Woo BBQ, now Leung Kee Chinese BBQ.

It’s right smack in the middle of this huge mall that contains tons of Asian restaurants, including Chinese, Korean, Thai and more.

They do a lot of takeout biz, pigs and ducks and the like.

The space is typical old school SGV.

Boba must be a new thing.

The menu.

Tea comes in a mug!

And there is free eggdrop soup — which was pretty darn good.

Macau style roast pork. Must have just been reheated as it landed on our table in 2 seconds, but pretty tasty.

Crispy beef. Very fried, but very delicious.

Peking Duck. It wasn’t the best peking duck, maybe a bit soggy, but peking duck is always pretty good.

Buns instead of pancakes.

And sketchy extra duck meat — that was actually pretty good.

Overall, just fair. Pretty much what you’d expect. But I like pretty much all (real) Chinese food at a good bit.

Restaurant: Mandarin Bay Seafood

Location: 1015 S Nogales St, Rowland Heights, CA 91748. (626) 839-7738

Date: August 3, 2019

Cuisine: Cantonese Chinese

Rating: check: Just ok

Next up, we leave the actual mall and cross the street on foot to:

Meet up with more people at noon at:

Cantonese Mandarin Bay Seafood Restaurant.

The gang (minus yours truly).

The takeout menu.

It’s noon, by 1 minute or so, so time for wine.

From my cellar, a touch too dry — bone dry rose sparkling from France.

Nice.

Second free soup of the day, hot and sour — this was not good hot and sour. I saved the stomach space.

Marinated Jellyfish. Vinegary and chewy good.

Salt and Pepper Shrimp. Salty, crunchy, very tasty.

Salt and pepper squid — somehow we ended up with the same prep twice. These were good too.

Ginger and Green Onion frog. Kinda fried, but the sauce was great.

Overall, Mandarin was fine too, but nothing super exciting.

Restaurant: Spicy Moment

Location: 1015 S Nogales St, Rowland Heights, CA 91748. (626) 581-4966

Date: August 3, 2019

Cuisine: Szechuan Chinese

Rating: check: Surprisingly good, big menu

Next up we walked 2 doors down.

To a new style Szechuan place.

This is what I mean by new style. They still have the ugly drop ceiling, but they have made a tiny effort at decorating.

The menu is gargantuan.
This is a great wine on any day, and particularly great on a hot day with Chinese.

Recycled from the Vietnamese crawl.

Grilled pork jowl with Yunnan sauce. Delicious.

Fish in pickle pepper soup. This wasn’t spicy, but it was amazing. Really, really delicious. Soft tender fish and very distinct and lovely sour flavor.

Dry pot pork rib and shrimp. Also filled with potatoes to sop up the sauce. I generally like dry pot and this was particularly delicious. Lots and lots of flavor.

Black pepper lamb shoulder. Not spicy, but very tasty with a strong onion flavor.

Eggplant with garlic sauce. Fine rendition.

Overall, I was very pleasantly surprised by Spicy Moment and would totally go back for a full meal. Plus they let us drink our wine on the down low. Menu is huge and execution was good — and interesting. It should be noted, that as of Feb/March 2020 Spicy Moment “rebooted” into a totally different, more homestyle Szechuan place with the same name. I have, of course, already eaten there.

Restaurant: Hunan Restaurant

Location: 1015 S Nogales St, Rowland Heights, CA 91748. (626) 964-8458

Date: August 3, 2019

Cuisine: Hunan Chinese

Rating: check: Solid

Then we popped back to this spot:

Located in between the Mandarin Bay and Spicy Moment.

Hunan is more old school than Spicy Moment, but it also has a vast menu:

Vast menu.

More sweet wine.

And a rhone blend.

Peanuts.

Shredded minced pork with corn and pickled vegetable. Super tasty — pork really helps a veggie. Sure to make things really move along later.

Sautéed lamb. Tasty.

Crispy pork ribs with garlic and chilies. Lots of flavor, not so much meat.

Fish filet with fire cracker salt. Very delicious boiled fish with garlic and chilies.

Spicy pickled cucumbers. Also delicious. Generally a fan fave.

Overall, Hunan was also very good. Sort of a blend of (more old school) Szechuan AND Hunan, but who cares. It was excellent. While the pictures above cover what we ate during the crawl, I’ve also been to this place my specifically, and a more detailed write up can be found here.

Restaurant: Happy Tree House BBQ

Location: 18904 E Gale Ave, Rowland Heights, CA 91748. (626) 581-9886

Date: August 3, 2019

Cuisine: Chinese Skewers

Rating: check: hmmm

When I was spotting during the hot pot night, this place seemed intriguing.

Happy Tree BBQ. It’s a new style skewered meats place.

Very snazzy new interior.

Real coals.

And this warmer thing on the table where they put your skewers.

Powders.

Seaweed salad. Tastes like it looks.

Spicy octopus salad. Ok, but the sauce tasted a lot like Sriracha.

Beef skewers. Not bad.

Shrimp skewers. You eat shell and all.

Hot dogs. Well they didn’t call them that, but they basically are.

Chicken skin skewers. Crispy!

Lamb skewers. Pretty good too.

Chicken wing skewers. Just so so.

Overall, we were kinda disappointed in Happy Tree. Chinese skewers aren’t nearly as good as good Yakatori. They’re fine, but not super exciting. This place looks good, and is probably packed with young people on dates in the evening, but it just doesn’t feel as “Chinese” somehow. I’m not really sure where in China this kind of food is actually from.

Restaurant: Silk Road Garden

Location: 18904 E Gale Ave, Rowland Heights, CA 91748. (626) 581-9886

Date: August 3, 2019

Cuisine: Uyghur Chinese

Rating: check: great

So our final place is all the way west.

And merely across the parking lot next to the first spot.

It’s Uyghur Chinese like Dolans and has the decor to match. Very cute and intimate.

Being Uyghur doesn’t mean their menu is any smaller! They have skewers here too — I bet they would be better.

Garlic pickles. Nice crunchy garlicky cucumbers.

Yellow noodle with cumin lamb. Delicious tender cumin lamb on top of spaghetti-like noodles.

Meat and Vegetables in Homemade pastry. A giant golden meat pie. Extremely hot on the mouth, but tasty.

Special homemade noodle with minced beef. A western Chinese bolognese — tons of flavor. Nice thick al dente noodles.

Manti, meat and onion filled dumplings. These were superb, with really delicate skins. They could have used a dipping sauce though.

They had a little freezer of ice cream macarons.

Overall, I was also very pleasantly surprised by Silk Road. First rate execution. Small, intimate, and clearly cooked with precision. The dishes are typical of the region — half way between Shaanxi and Afghan — focused on lamb, and delicious.

In Summary, we only hit 6 of the perhaps 20+ restaurants in Mandarin plaza, and we “only” had 8 people, but we dined like Emperors on a cross China trek! Seriously, so much variety of style. The far SGV (aka Rowland and Hacienda Heights, Dimond Bar, etc) is where a lot of exciting culinary growth is.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Chevy and Mary may have skipped the first place (the BBQ) but they made up for it by getting shave ice and boba tea!

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Chinese cuisine, Chinese Food, crawl, food crawl, hedonists, Hunan Cuisine, Mandarin Plaza, Rowland Heights, SGV, Sichuan, Szechuan cuisine, Uyghur Cuisine, Wine

Little Saigon Mega Crawl

Sep16

Restaurant: Brodard Restaurant

Location: 16105 Brookhurst St. Fountain Valley, CA 92708. Phone number (657) 247-4401

Date: July 31, 2019

Cuisine: Vietnamese

Rating: Solid

Crawls are usually a lot of fun, and this super far, super extensive Garden Grove / Westminster Vietnamese Food crawl has been months in the planning. I collated several online lists of the best Vietnamese in Little Saigon and narrowed it down to 5 places (plus one coffee shop) and a list of their best dishes. I love Vietnamese food and have written up my full 2014 trip to Vietnam here. Bear in mind that 4 of us completed the entire crawl. Two joined for the 4 middle places.

We started furthest south at Brodard.

Their interior is fairly modern.

And they have a bunch of takeaway and bakery products. French influence in Vietnam I guess.

Vietnamese menus can be very long, and this is no exception.

Grilled Pork Spring Rolls (Nem Nuong Cuon). Heritage Berkshire grilled pork wrapped in rice paper with lettuce, cucumber, carrots, cilantro, chives, daikon and mint served with their house special sauce. These were a great spring roll, pretty much your typical “fresh” (soft, not fried) Vietnamese roll, except for the thick slab of amazing grilled pork. Really made the roll.

Jackfruit Salad (Goi Mit). Young jackfruit and steamed pork tossed with asian herbs, peanuts, shallots, and roasted sesame seeds, accompanied with rice crackers and mom tom (fermented shrimp sauce) dressing on the side. I was interested to get this because I hadn’t had it — can’t say I loved the weird sour and fish taste. It was edible certainly, but a bit odd.

Hue Style Beef Noodle Soup (Bun Bo Hue). A spicy and richly flavorful soup with rice vermicelli, tender beef shank, pork hock, and roasted shallots accompanied by asian herbs and bean sprouts. This was supposed to have liver, can’t say if it did. What it did have was PIG SNOUT. Really obvious snouty snouts. Pretty sketchy. Broth and noodles were great though.

Mixed up a bit to show off the noodles.

Overall, while I anticipated Brodard would be one of my favorites, it just turned out fine. Nice, modern, but I wasn’t blown away. Hard to tell though based on three dishes.

Restaurant: Quan Hop Restaurant

Location: 15640 Brookhurst St. Westminster, CA 92683. (714) 689-0555

Date: July 31, 2019

Cuisine: Vietnamese

Rating: Good

On to stop two, just down the street.

Clearly this wasn’t built as a Vietnamese restaurant originally.

The interior made me think it was once a sushi bar or something.

Another big menu.

Some riesling — they even charged us a little corkage!

Rice pancakes (banh beo). These were amazing. You put a little fish sauce on them and slurp ’em like an oyster. Really light, delicate, and exciting flavor.

Shaved filet mignon, stir-fried and tossed with finely shredded banana blossoms (goi bo). Very nice beef salad. Tangy with great textures.

Fried rice cakes topped with pork and shrimp dumplings (banh it ram). Extremely interesting carb on carb dish. Greasy (in a good way) rice cakes with, yeah, a dumpling on them. Kinda a bit breaded, but tasty.

Overall, All three of our dishes were great.

Restaurant: Song Long Restaurant

Location: 9361 Bolsa Ave, Ste 108. Westminster, CA 92683. (714) 775-3724

Date: July 31, 2019

Cuisine: Vietnamese

Rating: Old school, but amazing fish

I was wary of place number three, it felt too old school — but it turned out to be great.

Old school.

And not the most updated minimall.

Yeah baby, look at those curtains! This place has much more French influence.

Huge menu.

Rice crackers.

French bread.

Vietnamese style Chicken Wings (Canh Ga Chien Nuoc Mam). The wings were fine, very crispy, but that garlic butter sauce was to die for!

Sizzling fish (Cha Ca Thang Long). Catfish garnished with dill, onions, peanuts, served with pickles and greens and rice vermicelli.

The herbs and noodles. You pile it all together with the fish and add fish sauce. Absolutely amazing. 10/10 dish. Really really great fish with a lovely turmeric/dill flavor. Super addictive.

Overall, I was very pleasantly surprised by Song Long. Really by the fish dish — which as I had been told was worth the price of admission. Really fabulous. Garlic butter was crazy good too.

Restaurant: Banh Cuon Tay Ho 4

Location: 9822 Bolsa Ave Ste 101H. Westminster, CA 92683. (714) 531-5171

Date: July 31, 2019

Cuisine: Vietnamese

Rating: Very casual

Fourth place.

This has more the look of a lunch chain spot.

Interior is new, but bland.

Ice Tea? No, it’s a giant pitcher of fish sauce on the table!

Combo with wide rice noodles (banh cuon) and sweet potato and shrimp fritters (banh tom) and some liverwurst like meat. Interesting, and tasty enough with fish sauce. Almost the entire menu is various combos like this mostly including the same set of rotating items.

Beef noodles. You douse it in fish sauce and…

Mix it up. Surprisingly delicious.

Overall, this was my least favorite of the 5 places as it’s menu was so small (mostly version of the first dish). It would be okay for a quite cheap and tasty lunch by oneself.

Restaurant: Oc & Lau Restaurant

Location: 10130 Garden Grove Blvd, Garden Grove, CA 92843. (714) 636-2000

Date: July 31, 2019

Cuisine: Vietnamese

Rating: Great

I had high expectations for Oc & Lau too, as it was purported to be in the league of Garlic and Chives which we didn’t visit today, but I love.

The exterior, just down the block from Garlic and Chives — there are two locations.

Interior is.

Big menu.

Ruinart never sucks.

Frog legs (Ech Chien Bo). Fried frog legs. Excellent!

Fried quail (Chim Cut Rotti). Much like the Chinese style quail. Great!

Garlic butter queen clams (Nghieu Hoang Hau Chay Toi). Really tasty.

Creamy coconut periwinkle escargot (Oc Gao Dua). This sauce was a 10, rich with curry coconut flavor, but I messed up and got the tiny winkle snails which are impossible to eat. About 1 in 3 times you can pry one out (with some challenge) using the toothpick. Bummer. I just sucked the sauce.

Tamarind Lobster (Tom Hum Range Me). The sauce was too sweet — tangy sweet — but very sweet. Nice lobster though. We would have ordered with a different sauce.

Filet Mignon with udon (Bo Filet Xao Udon). Very tasty beef with onions and great thick udon noodles.

Weird purple yam and sticky milk free dessert.

Restaurant: Cafe Lu

Location: 636 S Harbor Blvd, Santa Ana, CA 92704. (714) 604-6347

Date: July 31, 2019

Cuisine: Coffee

Rating: Super weird

With just four of us left — and being very full — someone suggested we sample this oddity of the Orange County Vietnamese cultural scene:

Cafe Lu, a kind of bikini coffee bar.

Imagine a super divey bar where women in bathing suits and stripper heels serve you extremely over-priced Vietnamese coffee (or chicken wings). Very weird. Even weirder clientele. A certain hedonist managed to pound a giant coconut smoothy-shake (after our 5 restaurants) and THEN go to a huge Cantonese banquet in the SGV only 2 hours later. Woah!

In total summary, an amazing 4-5 hour journey through a California landscape not so often explored by the typical white-bread Los Angeles resident. One of the great things about our city (and I include the extended area we visited today) is the incredible wealth of culinary (and cultural) variety brought in by our vast immigrant populations. Keep ’em coming!

In terms of restaurant quality, none of these places blew me away quite as much as Garlic & Chives, but Oc & Lau is close and seems worthy of its own full meal visit.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Banh Cuon Tay Ho 4, Brodard, Champagne, Garden Grove, hedonists, OC, Oc & Lau, Quan Hop Restaurant, snails, Song Long, Vietnamese cuisine, Westminster, Wine

Second Kass

Sep13

Restaurant: Kass Restaurant – Wine & Bar [1, 2]

Location: 320 South La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036. (323) 413-2299

Date: July 30, 2019

Cuisine: California French

Rating: Fabulous

Years ago I enjoyed Chef Christophe Emé’s Ortolan and have had attended private dinners he’s prepared.

So it was exciting that he opened a new place on La Brea — supposedly a bit more casual this time (as is in vogue). The Foodie Club went in June and the meal was so fabulous we are back (with a slightly different mix of people) just a few weeks later.

I think the sign was completed in 2018, I believe the restaurant itself opened in 2019 :-).

This is the inside after dinner when we outlasted everyone. Clean and cosy.

The kitchen was small and neat and you can see Chef Christophe Emé in the center, carefully managing every detail.

Liz brought the newly released 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne P2. VM 97+. The 2002 Dom Pérignon P2 is surprisingly, almost shockingly, austere and tightly wound. That almost surely bodes well for the future. Today, though, the 2002 is very hard to taste. Stylistically, it is also much less available than the original release. Readers lucky enough to own the 2002 should plan on being patient.

Cheese and sorbet with kaluga caviar. A light and elegant pairing that showcased the caviar — and of course we were drinking champagne!

2002 Joseph Drouhin Griotte-Chambertin. VM 92. Enticing redcurrant and strawberry scents are precise and impressively perfumed, with pungent floral lift and exotic Asian spice accents. Clean and brisk but tightly wound, with red fruit and bitter cherry flavors firmed by dusty tannins and zesty minerality. At once highly concentrated and elegant, showing a youthfully tangy tone to the impressively long finish. Hold this for another five years, at least.

Tartar with mushrooms and potato chips. Really fabulous. I do love tartar and this was a superlative one. We opened the Griotte-Chambertin (above) to have some red with this.

From my cellar: 1985 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. JG 96. The 1985 Dom Pérignon is still several years away from its peak of drinkability, and while it is certainly quite approachable at this stage in its evolution, this wine will continue to improve with further bottle age. The bouquet is deep, complex and still a tad adolescent, as it offers up scents of tart apples, pink grapefruit, gentle herbal tones, a touch of limepeel, stony minerality and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and still quite young, with a rock solid core of fruit, bright acids, fine focus and balance, tiny bubbles and superb length and grip on the racy finish. While some tasters around the table thought this wine was drinking beautifully, for my palate it remains still a bit bound up in its minerally adolescence and will offer up significantly more opulence and toasty charm with another five to ten years of bottle age. It should prove to be an absolutely classic vintage of Dom Pérignon.

agavin: this bottle was a bit oxidized and not nearly as good as the one we opened at Angelini — that being said it was still good.

Scrambled Eggs. White truffle. Simple but incredible dish. Perfect texture and soft delicate flavor. Also perfect with the “mature” notes of the 1985 Dom.

2002 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet. VM 94. The 2002 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche was almost as impressive, although stylistically it was quite a bit more honeyed, voluptuous and creamy.

Cold Cucumber soup. Super cool and refreshing. Lovely.

Liz brought: 1986 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune. JG 91. I drank up a couple of cases of the 1986 Clos Ste. Hune from the mid-1990s through around 2005 or so, but I should have held onto some of cellar cache of this vintage, as the wine has continued to age very gracefully and is probably drinking better today than any point in its past. The beautiful nose is a blend of apple, grapefruit, chalky, stony soil tones, tart orange, petrol, a whisper of leesiness and a touch of corn kernel. On the palate the wine is medium-full, long and crisp, with superb focus and complexity, a good core and lovely length and grip on the well-balanced finish that closes with a distinct note of sea salt. A lovely, middleweight vintage of Clos Ste. Hune that continues to cruise along beautifully.

Tile fish with chanterelles and a butter sauce. Fabulous buttery mushroom thing. High mercury levels yeah, but delicious!

From my cellar: 1981 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia. VM 92. Yellow-gold. Yellow plum, peach and orange rind on the nose, with complicating notes of cinnamon, mace and allspice. The equally complex palate offers sweet pit fruit and citrus flavors and touches of smoky oak and marzipan. Gains weight and nuttiness with air without loss of energy and finishes with clinging honey and orange marmalade qualities. This would be great with a rich poultry or shellfish dish.

Scallop with parmesan and tomato.

Kirk brought: 1998 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. VM 94+. Full ruby. Subtle, extremely complex nose melds cassis, bitter cherry, licorice, menthol and gunflint. Great purity and class in the middle palate, though extremely young and not currently showing the texture of the unfinished ’99. But this is utterly compelling syrah, finishing with superb length and extremely fine tannins for the vintage. The ’99 may be more pliant in the early going thanks to its sweeter tannins, but I’m not yet convinced it will surpass this brilliant ’98.

Lamb with tortellini and peas. Another great dish, livened up by the fresh peas.

Cheese selection.

Tarte aux Pommes. Vanilla ice cream.

And of course gelato by me:

Cioccolato Fondente Torrone Gelato — I’ve been working to squeeze the most chocolate humanly possible into a dairy gelato. This is 70% cocoa Valrhona and 100% Callebaut Chocolates — a total of 22.5% cocoa by weight — extremely intense — offset slightly by Italian soft nougat (torrone) — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #peanut #chocolate #valrhona #Callebaut #torrone

Strawberry Margarita Sorbetto! — like a frozen cocktail — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Strawberries from Avignon, blended with fresh lime, Reposado Tequila and Cointreau –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #strawberry #Margarita #cocktail #Tequila #Cointreau

Overall, this was an amazing meal. Our wines were nice, and service was really spot on, but it’s the cooking that really showed everything else up. We had no repeat dishes from our epic meal previously and all the new ones were great too. The kitchen was a touch more distracted which perhaps slowed the pacing down a bit. The dishes we had were just as good, but for whatever reason we had one less savory and only one dessert instead of 4. Not that I left hungry. So if the first meal was a 10/10 this was maybe a 9/10, but still awesome.

And it should be noted, that as of late August chef Christophe Emé has moved on to new projects, and as such this place represents another ephemeral snapshot into past dining experiences no longer available.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or for epic Foodie Club meals, here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Cheese, Christophe Emé, Dessert, Foodie Club, Gelato, Hollywood, Kass, Liz Lee, Sage Society, Wine

Sauvages Bordeaux

Sep12

Restaurant: Private Chef, David Slatkin

Location: Bel Air

Date: July 27, 2019

Cuisine: American

This particular entry in my series of Friday afternoon wine themed Sauvages lunches was set at…

Member Jeff’s lovely backyard and features food by private chef David Slatkin.

We dined at this lovely table — it would be romantic except this is about a dozen old winos :-).

Even Hercules, the dog, knows how to have a good time.

NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé. VM 92. We started with a demi-bouteille of Billecart-Salmon Rosé: a safe option, but it does the job, even though I would say that a full bottle is better.

Ceviche “tacos.” Food notes are a little sketchy because I don’t have a menu and am writing this up weeks later.

Beet and goat cheese skewers. “Classic,” but still delicious.

From my cellar: 2004 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne. VM 96. I am thrilled with the way the 2004 Comtes de Champagne continues to evolve in bottle. A few years ago, the 2004 was quite focused and linear, in the style of the vintage, but more recently, the wine has begun to fill out beautifully. The 2004 remains bright, with a full range of citrus, white flower and mineral nuances that dance on the palate. A brisk, saline-infused finish rounds things out beautifully in a Comtes that impresses for its crystalline purity. I expect the 2004 will always remain a bit cool next to the more opulent 2002, but it is still drop-dead gorgeous.

Oyster shooters.

Beef tartar on polenta.

2015 Château Cos d’Estournel Blanc. VM 91. Jeff gives it 92 points. A bright, juicy, fresh blast yellow citrus with a hint of lime. Quite vibrant and fruity. Drink now, or age it for a few more years.

2004 Y de Yquem. 93 points, Jeff says: Bright, peppy, energetic blast of grapefruit, lemon and honeysuckle with loads of fresh, yellow citrus with just a hint of honey in the finish. This is drinking in its sweet spot today.

Sea bass with basil, beans, and bacon. Bacon makes everything better.

1986 Château Lafite Rothschild. VM 96. The 1986 Lafite-Rothschild is a great wine although over several recent encounters it is never a convincing “perfect” wine. This mirrors the bottle I tasted at the property in 2016: blackberry and graphite on the nose, gawky at first, but coalescing with time. The palate is well balanced with firm tannins, strong graphite scents unfolding with time, superb energy if not delivering quite the finesse and precision that the very best Lafite-Rothschild will bestow. This is a wine that benefits from long decanting, say five or six hours, though it never quite reaches the ethereal heights that it could have done. Tasted at the International Business & Wine First Growth Dinner at the Four Seasons.

1982 Château Lynch-Bages. VM 92. Dark red with a hint of garnet. A floral element lifts the very ripe aromas of kirsch and spicecake. Smooth, juicy, balanced and clean, with flavors of raspberry jam, graphite and tar exhibiting very good sweetness. Lively, balanced acidity confers precision and cut to this easygoing midweight. Finishes linear and long, with plenty of charm.

1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. 96 points. Deep red-ruby color. Liqueur-like aromas of currant, cedar, lead pencil, truffle and smoked meat. Magically sweet and silky in the mouth, with superb depth of flavor and a complete absence of rough edges. A huge wine with utterly compelling sweetness and great terroir character. Powerful if somewhat unrestrained. Finishes ripely tannic, long and sweet. Many tasters still rank this among their two or three favorites of the vintage. Drink now to 2015.

Gnocchi with lobster and morels. Probably my favorite savory dish, but I do like pasta and mushrooms — particularly morels.

2000 Château Léoville Poyferré. VM 90. Good full medium ruby. Subdued, slightly roasted nose combines cassis, cherry and chocolate mint. Chocolatey-sweet but less deep and expressive than the ’02 and ’01. Offers good currant and cherry flavors but seems a bit dry-edged and medicinal for a 2000, without quite the harmony of components of the subsequent vintages here.

1989 Château Lynch-Bages. VM 96. The 1989 Lynch Bages is a wine that in multiple tastings has never really put a foot wrong and as it approaches 30 years, one wonders just how long this Pauillac is going to give so much drinking pleasure. Those enticing blackberry and cedar scents remain in situ, maybe less pencil lead here compared to previous bottles. Yet, you have to stand back to admire the intensity and sheer brio of these aromatics. The palate is still unbelievably fresh, this the most youthful example that I have encountered with pure black fruit laced with cedar, just a hint of chestnut towards the symmetrical finish. When I first tasted the 1989 I remarked that it is equal to a First Growth, a sentiment that I have no hesitation in repeating. Jean-Michel Cazes would not make a better wine until the following year. Tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux.

From my cellar: 1990 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron. VM 96. The 1990 Pichon-Baron is a sensational wine that must have had the First Growth rattled when it was released. At 28 years old, it is still reveling in its precocious growing season. The multidimensional bouquet features blackberry, graphite, cedar and mint flanked by iodine and warm gravel on a summer day. Wow! The palate is medium-bodied, delivering a mixture of red and black fruit, a fine mineral undercurrent and a long, precise finish: blackberry, cedar and graphite remain in the mouth for a good 60 seconds. Still a fabulous Pauillac after all these years. Tasted at the Pichon-Baron vertical at the château.

Jeff gives it 98 points: This is a super wine. In fact, I am not sure there is a better example for the money in the market today for a great Pauillac with bottle age. This has everything you need in a mature Left Bank wine. It is rich, powerful, concentrated and multi-layered. But the wine is not showy, it’s restrained. The aromatic profile is text-book with its tobacco leaf, smoke, cassis, blackberry, wet earth and herbal notes. The texture is masculine and refined, with a finish that doesn’t quit. An hour at most is all this needs in the decanter.

Meat, two ways.

1996 Château Latour Grand Vin. VM 94. The 1996 Latour is a wine that I often find overrated and did not achieve everything that might have been possible in this favourable growing season. That said, this might well be the best of around two dozen bottles I have encountered over the years. As usual, the 1996 is decidedly austere at first, standoffish, looks down its nose at you. Yet it coalesces with time and develops engaging cedar-scented black fruit tinged with pencil box and a touch of iris with time. The palate (again) is a little muted at first but it soon found its voice and evolved very fine tannin allied with a crisp line of acidity. It is not quite as demonstrative as it was even just a couple of years ago, gained some detail and perhaps it will continue to meliorate. Very fine, very fine indeed – but not a patch of say, the Château Margaux or perhaps even Léoville Las Cases. Tasted at the International Business & Wine Latour dinner at Ten Trinity.

Jeff gives it 99 points: A stunning wine in every sense of the word. Full-bodied, deep, concentrated, regal and long, the wine is packed with ripe, juicy, sweet, fresh dark red fruits, tobacco, earth and spice. Concentrated, balanced and complex, this is still youthful. The finish really hangs in there. You can enjoy it now with 2 hours of air. Or give it another 5-10-15 years in the cellar for more development.

1996 Château Margaux. VM 96+. Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another great expression of cabernet sauvignon from the ’96 vintage. Drink 2015 through 2040.

1998 Château Mouton Rothschild. VM 92. The 1998 Mouton Rothschild is another wine that I had not tasted for several years. It is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Compared directly with the 1988, there is clearly some improvement for the bouquet is fresher with greater complexity – blackberry, cedar, a spring of fresh mint and a little juniper berry for good measure. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin. Like many Pauillac 1998s, this feels quite structured and masculine, but at least there is adequate fruit tucked in just behind. It segues into a rather ferrous last third, fresh and precise with a sustained finish. Although it lags behind more recent vintages under Dhalluin, it appears to be at its peak after 20 years and should remain there for another decade. Tasted at the château.

Jeff gives it 95 points: The wine starts off with an array of layers in the perfume. Full-bodied and concentrated, with layers of fruit. But the finish is a bit clipped. The wine is very good, but the brief finish is a bit disappointing. Time will add complexities, but the finish is probably not going to get any better.

Beef with chanterelles, green beans, and mashed Peruvian purple potato.

1996 La Mondotte. VM 91. Black ruby. Slightly high-toned aromas of raspberry, minerals and toffee. Extroverted, sweet and powerful in the mouth, with superb density for the vintage. Finishes with huge but well-distributed tannins. This is 100% merlot, while the ’97 and ’98 include 20%-25% cabernet franc; von Neipperg says he picked the cab franc too early in ’96 and found it too rustic to include in the blend.

Jeff gives it 94 points: Mature, richly textured, ripe, sweet, lush and fresh, there is no reason to hold this any longer. While not at the level of subsequent vintages, the wine is quite nice, especially for the vintage.

2000 Château Pavie Decesse. VM 93. Bright, deep ruby. Explosive aroma of roasted black cherry. Dense, highly concentrated and deep, with penetrating, palate-saturating flavors of blackberry and black cherry framed by firm underlying minerality. A wine of great force; despite its major ripeness, there’s also a cool, medicinal aspect that’s utterly refreshing. Finishes with big, broad tannins and outstanding length.

Cheese plate.

My cryptic notes on the main wines.

1986 Château de Fargues. 93 points. Sublime; shows why 86 is such a fantastic year for Sauternes – a perfect balance of body, acid, and sweetness. Has it all.

Soufflé with peaches and whipped cream.

House-made chocolate chip cookies.

Gelati by moi:

Italian Lemon Cookie Meringue Pie — Limoncello Zabaione base with lemon cookie flavor mixed with Italian Lemon Creme Cookies and Sicilian Candied Lemon and topped with house-made toasted Meringue — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato) — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #lemon #LemonCookie #cookie #Sicily #Sorento #Limoncello #Meringue #LemonMeringuePie

Radical new flavor: Gianduja Extra Virgin Olive Oil — a tricky high fat EVOO base made with 2014 Giuseppe Quintarelli Olive Oil and layered with house-made Piedmontese Hazelnut and Valrhona Chocolate Ganache — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato) — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #evoo #OiliveOil #Quintarelli #SavorySweet #ganache #valrhona #chocolate #hazelnut

Some bonus wine:

1995 Château Mouton Rothschild. VM 95. Jeff gives it 94 points: There is a bit more strictness and severity to the wine that is becoming more apparent over the years. The wine has power, loads of tannin, and the fruit is ripe, but the increasing austerity that is an issue with many 1995 Bordeaux wines is something to take note of.

Even more bonus wine:

1998 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle. VM 92. Red-ruby. Expressive nose combines currant, roast coffee, chicory, underbrush and smoke. Suave yet penetrating in the mouth, with complex flavors of redcurrant, iron, minerals, smoke and tobacco. Finishes with dusty tannins and excellent length, though there still some acidity to be absorbed. This is showing well now, though its slightly more advanced aromatics suggest it will not be as long-lived as the ’99.

Overall, a great lunch with really good food and amazing wines — all of which were drinking in great form. I don’t buy too much Bordeaux anymore, but they are really great when you give them a few years.

After the dinner proper a couple of us retired up the stairs to a lovely terrace on top of the yard and sipped our “bonus wines” (the 95 Mouton and Hermitage).

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Bel Air, Bordeaux, BYOG, David Slatkin, Gelato, Sauvages, Wine

Bubbe’s Kitchen – Traktir

Sep11

Restaurant: Traktir

Location: 8151 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90046. (323) 654-3030

Date: July 25, 2019

Cuisine: Russian Cuisine

Rating: Delicious!

Erick’s Russian friends told him that Taktir was the best Russian place in town and so we had to try it.

This is the West Hollywood location, there is also one over in the valley, in Tarzana. I have no idea if one is better than the other.

They have a big outside patio.

Seen from the other side.

And the interior (we sat to the left there).

The menu.

From my cellar: NV Krug Champagne Brut Rosé. VM 94. The NV Brut Rosé is brilliant and finely-sculpted in the glass, with floral aromatics, pulsating minerality and chiseled fruit. Less austere than it can be, the Rosé impresses for its combination of tension and textured, phenolic weight. There is so much to like. The blend is 59% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 8% Pinot Meunier. Disgorged Spring 2013.

Pickled Vegetable Combination. Tomato, Cucumber, Cabbage. Just like at the Jewish deli!

Homemade Cured Salmon. Really nice cured salmon actually. Not too salty but great flavor.

Larry brought: 2013 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Les Forêts. VM 89. Pale, bright yellow. Stone fruits and oyster shell on the nose. Supple, sweet and fruity, showing a bit more grip than the village wine but still in an essentially soft style. Drinkable now for its ripe stone fruit flavors.

Olivier Salad. Russian potato salad. Lots of dill!

Herring «Moskovsky». Herring on Dark Toast with Butter & Onions. This very north eastern dish was spectacular. Super fresh tasting marinated herring with onion and in perfect balance with the toast.

Darnitsky Salad. Tomato, Cucumber, Onion, Feta, Cilantro, Parsley, Dill, House Vinaigrette. Not a bad salad at all, lots of vinegar.

Fake chard.

Salo. Cured Pork Fat Garnished with Garlic. I was a touch wary of these sheets of solid lard, but they turned out to be great with the incredibly strong mustard.

The mustard was so good we had to ask to see the jar.

Red Caviar. 4 oz served with Blinis and Garnish. The cheap caviar, but still pretty good on the little pancakes and with the sour cream.

Pougs brought: 2005 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots. 92 points. Medium+ colour. Some animaux, beautifully perfumed red fruit and then caramel. Wonderfully intense and nuanced red fruit palate, it is absolutely perfect today. The suave fruit and tertiary notes are fully forward. No need to be afraid of tannin in this 2005 – this is beautiful.

Kharcho. Spicy Tomato Based Lamb Soup with Rice. Nice soup, basically goulash.

Golubtsy. Stuffed Cabbage with Ground Meat and Rice. This is such a traditional Kosher Jewish dish and this particular version of it was so good. Tender and delicious.

Yarom brought: 2004 Tua Rita Redigaffi Toscana IGT. VM 93. The inky-colored 2004 Redigaffi, 100% Merlot aged for 16 months in new oak, offers expressive, nuanced aromatics along with sensations of richly-textured blue and black jammy fruit, minerals, mint, chocolate, spices and sweet toasted oak on big, powerful frame with notable underlying structure and a warm, resonating finish. Although it has enough structure and acidity to drink well for another decade or so, I enjoy Redigaffi most in its youth.

Vareniki Combination. Potato Vareniki. Russian style Dumpling with Potato Filling. Sauerkraut Vareniki. Russian Style Dumpling with Sauerkraut filling. Not bad at all, but not as good as below.

Pelmeni. Meat Filled Tortellini served with Sour Cream. Wow these were spectacular. Tender little pasta pockets (heavily boiled) but with a nice meaty flavor and in perfect combo with the sour cream.

2006 M. Chapoutier Ermitage l’Ermite. VM 94. Full ruby. A roomfilling bouquet of fresh red and dark berry scents, along with smoked meat, violet, incense and minerals. Wonderfully fresh in the mouth, with vibrant raspberry and black cherry flavors. Gentle tannins rein in the expansive fruit without standing in its way. The finish is all about fruit, with late-arriving notes of black olive and smoky minerals. Extremely sexy now but balanced to age.

Lula Kebab. Ground Meat with Spices.

Super grill plate with:

Chicken Shashlik. Marinated Chicken in House Spices.

Pork Shashlik. Marinated Pork in Special House Sauce.

Lamb Shashlik. Lamb Marinated in Herbs & Spices.

Beef Tenderloin Shashlik. Beef Tenderloin Marinated in Herbs & Spices.

Lula Kebab. Ground Meat with Spices.

Potatoes and slaw.

2003 Colgin IX Estate. VM 93. Ruby-red. Explosive aromas of black raspberry, minerals, graphite and flowers. Wonderfully sweet and dense, with a superripe suggestion of maple syrup and a note of hot rocks. Finishes with huge, chewy but well-buffered tannins and a lingering note of caramel. Perhaps the least lively today of these 2003s, but winemaker Aubert notes that the 2003 vintage in general here brought higher-than-average acidity.

Grilled 16 oz French Cut Pork Chop. Served on a Sizzling Skillet with Mushroom & Onions.

Beef Stroganoff. Sliced Beef in Sour Cream Sauce. Very soft, but the meat itself was quite tasty.

Chicken Tabaka. Pan Seared Pressed Cornish Hen in a Garlic Wine Sauce.

Lamb Chops. Marinated in Our Special Sauce & Flame Grilled.

Kotleti. Ground Meat Patties served with mashed potatoes.

House-made flavored vodkas!

Raspberry vodka. Sweet and not too harsh.

NV Buller Calliope Rare Tokay. VM 95. Deep amber. Spiced nuts, Cuban coffee, toffee, melted butter and brown sugar aromas are broad and explosive. This completely coats the glass. Thick and viscous, with powerful flavors of vanilla bean, honey, Bananas Foster and toffeed apple. This almost overwhelms the palate. Clings on the back end, showing almost oily concentration and unreal length. Remarkable stuff.

A chocolate and cream parfait.

Italian Lemon Cookie Meringue Pie — Limoncello Zabaione base with lemon cookie flavor mixed with Italian Lemon Creme Cookies and Sicilian Candied Lemon and topped with house-made toasted Meringue — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato) — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #lemon #LemonCookie #cookie #Sicily #Sorento #Limoncello #Meringue #LemonMeringuePie

Radical new flavor: Gianduja Extra Virgin Olive Oil — a tricky high fat EVOO base made with 2014 Giuseppe Quintarelli Olive Oil and layered with house-made Piedmontese Hazelnut and Valrhona Chocolate Ganache — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato) — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #evoo #OiliveOil #Quintarelli #SavorySweet #ganache #valrhona #chocolate #hazelnut

In the bowl.

Overall, this was a very fun evening and Traktir over delivered in terms of food quality and tastiness. It’s not the most updated interior, or slickest service, but the food just tasted really good — at least most of the dishes. Many of these dishes are similar to classic Jewish food (like my mom sometimes cooks) and are among the best versions I’ve had. Certainly the best stuffed derma (stuffed cabbage). This isn’t a Jewish place per se — it does have cured pork fat on the menu — but eastern Jewish food is so influenced by Russian. Not every dish was perfect, but enough were really good, like the herring, stuffed cabbage, meat dumplings, that I was fairly impressed.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: BYOG, Caviar, dumplings, Gelato, hedonists, Hollywood, Russian Cuisine, Salmon, Sour Cream, Traktir, vodka, Wine

Quick Eats – Red Rock

Sep05

Restaurant: Red Rock

Location: 11301 W Olympic Blvd Ste 210(floor 2nd, Los Angeles, CA 90064. (424) 208-3997

Date: July 23, 2019

Cuisine: Japanese Beef Bowl

Rating: Slightly odd 2nd floor beef bowl joint

Erick took me one lunch to this strange location upstairs in the Olympic Collection (at Olympic and Sawtelle).

This place is like a super Yoshinoya, with very beef oriented piles of meat on rice.

They also have steaks and tomahawks!

House salad. Tasty little Japanese salad.

Soup that comes with the lunch. Mild, salty and pleasant.

Fried chicken with curry rice. Fine, but not nearly as good a curry as at many other Japanese curry places, plus they had NO pickles! How can you have curry with no pickles?

Teriyaki beef bowl. Marinated slightly sweet beef on rice.

American brand beef served with their special sauce. Basically a chopped up steak on rice. Good with wasabi (which mysteriously cost an extra $1 or so!).

Red Rock’s signature items are these low temperature cooked meats (they look pink and raw) piled up on rice with a goopy white yogurt sauce and a raw egg. Erick had them on a previous visit and declared it pretty gross, so we skipped.

This is an interesting joint, and I certainly won’t go frequently, but if you are really craving some Japanese beef and don’t want Yakiniku (which I like much better), then try it out.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: beef, Japanese cuisine, raw beef, raw egg, Red Rock, Wagyū

Angelini Osteria

Sep04

Restaurant: Angelini Osteria

Location: 7313 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036. (323) 297-0070

Date: July 12, 2019

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: An LA classic

It’s been years, maybe even 10 years, since I was at LA classic Italian Angelini Osteria. Foodie Club member Larry goes all the time so he organized this dinner.

The frontage is located on busy Beverly Blvd in West Hollywood.

The menu.

Erick brought: 1985 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. JG 96. The 1985 Dom Pérignon is still several years away from its peak of drinkability, and while it is certainly quite approachable at this stage in its evolution, this wine will continue to improve with further bottle age. The bouquet is deep, complex and still a tad adolescent, as it offers up scents of tart apples, pink grapefruit, gentle herbal tones, a touch of limepeel, stony minerality and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and still quite young, with a rock solid core of fruit, bright acids, fine focus and balance, tiny bubbles and superb length and grip on the racy finish. While some tasters around the table thought this wine was drinking beautifully, for my palate it remains still a bit bound up in its minerally adolescence and will offer up significantly more opulence and toasty charm with another five to ten years of bottle age. It should prove to be an absolutely classic vintage of Dom Pérignon.

Pizza bread.

A kind of free amuse in the form of some kind of grain and veggies.

Salumi Board. Prosciutto di Parma, mortadella, salmi, fresh burrata, mixed baby greens. I wouldn’t really call this a board, as it’s a pile of meat and cheese on a bit of salad — but it was delicious.

From my cellar: 2012 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. VM 93+. Light orange-yellow. Forward but racy aromas of tangerine, ginger, white flowers, sweet spices and medicinal herbs on the complex nose. Rich and round, but with lovely acid lift and energy to the concentrated flavors of apricot, pear and botanical herbs. Finishes long and pure. Not the most concentrated young Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from Valentini, but has a rich, ripe seamless personality that is hard to resist. Good to go right now but ought to age for 15 years at least. Really lovely wine.

Maryland Soft Shell Crab, rice flour deep fried, arugula, capers, lemon cream sauce.

White Marinated Anchovies, red beets, mixed baby greens, red onions, balsamic. I love white marinated anchovies. I touch odd paired with beets though.

Polipo, Warm Mediterranean Octopus. Arugula, cherry tomatoes.

From my cellar: 2004 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano. VM 95+. The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is powerful, deeply colored and still carrying a considerable amount of tannic heft for a twelve year old wine. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, tobacco, scorched earth and licorice give the wine much of its distinctive virile personality. The Madonna del Piano is one of the bigger, brawnier 2004s readers will come across. As such, it needs to be served alongside similarly rich, hearty cuisines.

Pizza Margherita, ‘nduja, cherry tomatoes, olives, burrata. Sligtly odd pairing of meaty Margherita with the olives. Maybe I just don’t like black olives on my pizza.

Tagliatelle, duck ragout. Solid duck pasta, much like the classic with pheasant.

Homemade Spaghetti Chitarra alla Norcina, summer black truffles, sausage, parmigiana reggiano. Pasta Norcina is one of my utter favorite pastas, but this didn’t feel like a classic Italian Norcina. Now it was good, and very truffled, but the sausage (and cheese) were a bit subdued.

Veal Shank Agnolotti, parmigiana reggiano sauce. Awesome meat agnolotti. Sumptuous, soft, delicious.

Linguine, Santa Barbara Sea Urchin, garlic, chives. Very solid uni pasta. Not the best I’ve ever had, but very good.

Trish brought: 2004 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sperss. VM 97. The 2004 Sperss is one of the most finessed wines I have tasted from Angelo Gaja’s property in Serralunga. The darkness and gravitas of Serralunga are tempered by the supreme elegance of the year. Dark red and black cherries, smoke, tobacco, menthol and licorice flow through on the deep, resonant finish. This is another powerhouse wine that has been given an extra level of refinement in 2004.

Risotto al Frutti di Mare. Risotto Acquerello, cuttlefish, lobster, calamari, shrimp, mussels, clams. Excellent seafood risotto.

Whole Mediterranean Branzino roasted in sea salt, aromatic herbs, sautéed mixed vegetables.

Comes with these classic vegetables.

They do the filleting fortunately.

The finished plate. Very moist delicate white fish.

Larry brought: 2004 Tua Rita Redigaffi Toscana IGT. VM 93. The inky-colored 2004 Redigaffi, 100% Merlot aged for 16 months in new oak, offers expressive, nuanced aromatics along with sensations of richly-textured blue and black jammy fruit, minerals, mint, chocolate, spices and sweet toasted oak on big, powerful frame with notable underlying structure and a warm, resonating finish. Although it has enough structure and acidity to drink well for another decade or so, I enjoy Redigaffi most in its youth.

Lamb Chops Scottadito. Grilled Colorado lamb chops, arugula.

Mixed Italian Cheeses.

The dessert menu.

Cassata Italiana. Semifreddo, carmelized hazelnuts, pistachios. Half frozen ice cream with Italian nuts.

Panna Cotta, vaniglia bean, raspberry sauce.

Budino di Cioccolato, vaniglia gelato, chocolate sauce.

Chocolate Peanut Pretzel Gelato — testing a new 80% chocolate fondant base made with Valrhona and Callebaut Chocolates — then layered that with a house made salty peanut pretzel ganache — you can’t see the base, it’s under the ganache — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #peanut #chocolate #valrhona #Callebaut #ganache #pretzel

Bellini Sorbetto! — French White Peaches and Prosecco — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — I love the Pozzetti (round tubs), but I do need to figure out how to decorate the small batches in an attractive way — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #Bellini #peach #Prosecco

Overall, a very nice meal. Angelini Osteria hasn’t slipped at all and remains a great example of 90s/00s LA Italian. The kitchen is still very on point and the dishes are a mix of old 90s favorites, LA favorites (lots of burrata), and pretty solid contemporary Italian dishes not too different than you might find in Italy. Execution is spot on and service excellent.

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Foodie Club, Gelato, Hollywood, Italian cuisine, Osteria Angelini, pasta, Pasta Norcina, Pizza, Risotto, Wine

Quick Eats – Tara’s Himalayan

Sep02

Restaurant: Tara’s Himalayan Cuisine

Location: 262 26th St, Santa Monica, CA 90402. (424) 744-8948

Date: July 12 and August 22 & 31, 2019 & March 7, 2020

Cuisine: Nepalese / Tibetan

Rating: Salty, but tasty

I’ve been waiting for this new place to open right around the “corner” from me.

Himalayan is pretty exotic for Brentwood (and across from the Country Mart at that), but I’m glad to have something besides boring cafe fare.

Inside is pretty much what you’d expect.

The menu is pretty big.

Ginger tea was so hot I could barely drink it.

Samosas. Fairly typical, but include the sauces at least and very reasonably priced.

Tandori salmon. Lots of salmon, but the vegetables were a bit weird and there is a slightly sweet and sour sauce. The cooking also brings out the fishy quality of the salmon. Not my favorite dish.

Yak Chili. Sliced boneless Yak sautéed with fresh ginger, garlic, onion, tomato and bell pepper. This was very salty but had a very nice flavor. Pretty spicy too. The meat was chewy but rich and delicious. Not sure I’ve ever had yak before but happy to add it to the pile of meats I’ve devoured.

Tandoori baby back ribs. Tender pork ribs marinated in coconut milk, coriander, cumin and cardamon. Very mild and pleasant flavor. Almost sweet because of the coconut/cardamon vibe.

Lamb Korma. Boneless tender Lamb simmered with fresh garlic and ginger in a homemade curried coconut milk and cream sauce. This is basically Indian, and was quite mild. Decent flavor though.

Paneer Butter Masala. Homemade cheese cooked in our creamy tomato-butter sauce. Very similar to the Tikka Masala, maybe slightly more flavor — hard to tell.

Chicken Tikka Masala. Tender white meat chicken marinated in Himalayan spices, baked in our tandoori oven and served in our delicious tomato-onion cream sauce. Tasty chicken, sauce is great. Maybe the Butter version with the paneer was a touch better.

Lamb Tikka Masala. Marinated in Nepali spices then backed in a Tandoori oven, our tender lamb is served in a creamy tomato-onion sauce. Medium spicy and pretty good. Not as good as Akbar CTM, but solid.

Lamb Vindaloo. Boneless Lamb curry prepared with fresh potatoes, bell pepper, onion, tomatoes and blend of Nepali herbs and spices. This was’t particularly spicy, or as “brown” as some vindaloos. It did have that tangy vinegar flavor but I didn’t like it as much as the Masalas.

Okra. Sautéed slices of okra and tomatoes sautéed in fresh garlic, cilantro, and Himalayan spices. Delicious with nice texture and great flavor.

Lamb Saag. Boneless tender lamb prepared with a puree of spinach seasoned with garlic, ginger, and roasted cumin powder. Slightly spicy and pretty tasty.

White Basmati rice.

I’ve been twice. I have to come back and expand my ordering, as I do love curry, but some of the items I had, particularly the Tikka Masala and Okra were really good. From the menu things are fairly similar to North Indian food, but with a few more exotic items like the Yak.

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