Wine :: Page 8 :: All Things Andy Gavin

Archive for Wine – Page 8

Hakata Izakaya Hero

Aug01

Location: 1929 Westwood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025. (424) 832-3304

Date: November 19, 2021 & July 26, 2022

Cuisine: Japanese Izakaya

Rating: Very good Izakaya

At this quick little dinner right before Thanksgiving Paul and I hit up the relatively new Hakata Izakaya HERO on Westwood Blvd.

The inside is small.

But we sat outside on the patio. I love patios.

The varied little menu of Japanese comfort foods.

Paul brought: 2019 Xavier Monnot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes. VM 90-92. The 2019 Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru has a relatively understated and delicate bouquet, discreet compared to other Les Charmes this vintage. The palate is well balanced with just a little reduction at the moment. Good weight in the mouth, a tang of marmalade toward the finish and a little viscosity. Give this 2–3 years in bottle. (Drink between 2023-2035)

2017 Buisson-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Bouches-Chères. 93 points. Very good. very good balance. Minerals, fruit, medium to long finish.

Garlic Shisito Peppers. Nice.

Today’s Assorted Sashimi Special (for 2). A variety of nice fresh fish.

Marinated Sardine Sashimi. Very nice.

Cucumber with “death miso” — it was pretty spicy. Cucumber had a nice crunch.

Spicy Cold Tofu. Good, but the spicy miso had a fairly hefty kick and kept making me cough.

Spicy Agedashi Tofu. I love agedashi tofu (fried basically). This was good as usual.

Crispy Fried Chicken Gyoza. Classic little dumplings. Nice mix of soft and crispy.

Uni special. Just uni with shisto leaf.

Oysters.

Oyster sauce (basically a ponzu).

Shirako (cod sperm sacks). Really delicious!

Shrimp Tempura with Mayo. Sort of Japanese “Walnut Shrimp” — kinda awesome.

From my cellar: 2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots. VM 93+. Bright, deep red. Pungent, sexy aromas of strawberry, raspberry, cocoa powder and incense. Wonderfully fresh and gripping wine whose sheer sappiness and extract suggest a long and graceful evolution in bottle. But this beauty is also impossibly sexy today. Finishes vibrant and very long, with palate-dusting fruits, minerals and spices.

From my cellar: 2009 Domaine René Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques. 91 points. Definitely Gevrey nose. Dark and red fruit, with slightly rusticity. Medium+ body. Long finish. Very good.

Jidori Chicken Karaage. Hard to go wrong with crispy fried chicken!

Pork Belly Wrapped Skewers. Lettuce, Tomato, Chinese Chive, Cilantro, Scallion.

Short Rib Kalbi Platter. Super tender and juicy beef with a sweet dashi sauce. Delicious.

Prime Outside Skirt Steak Harimi platter. Sizzling and very tender. Really nice.

Dippings sauces.

Lemon Ramen. I’ve never had this and it was pretty much as described: a light shiro dashi style ramen with lemon. Kind of refreshing and delicious.

Overall, Hero was a nice little place with good food and a fun casual (lots of UCLA students) atmosphere. I’m glad there are more Izakaya’s opening up around town. It’s a great varied little cuisine and used to be quite rare (in the states).

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (1)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Hakata Izakaya HERO, Izakaya Hero, Japanese cuisine, Wine

Capital Sauvages

Jul28

Restaurant: Capital Seafood Beverly Hills [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 50 N La Cienega Blvd #130, Beverly Hills, CA 90211. (310) 855-1234

Date: November 12, 2021

Cuisine: Cantonese Chinese

Rating: Not their best meal

Sauvages has been on a fantastic (and “sold out”) tear since resuming in 2021. This lunch is a return to Capital Seafood in Beverly Hills with a (fake, AKA American) Chardonnay and Pinot Noir theme.

Capital is the latest SGV place to move west, occupying the Newport Seafood Beverly Hills location that failed to work out. Not that I love even the original Newport, but Capital is fairly straight up banquet / dimsum Cantonese.

The space looks pretty Chinese, even in Beverly Hills.

Coves. Gotta have the coves!

This particular lunch had the annoying 2 table and double wine format. We were set up in the bar area.

Champs to begin:

These were (in my mind) the “real wines” before all that buttery chard came in.
Candied walnuts.

Peanuts.

Our special menu.

The double table wine menu.

Some various sauces.

Smashed garlic cucumbers.

Pickled jellyfish.

Stuffed scallop with shrimp.

Tony, who organized the menu, had them individually plate everything. This looks great and is a bit easier but it just doesn’t work well at Chinese restaurants. They aren’t used to it, and the time it takes them to do it means that everything is a bit cold by the time it hits the table. Plus, I’m a glutton and then I can’t take seconds :-).

Steamed egg and lobster.

Steamed live fish.

Plated.

Dum sum platter. A bun, a little rabbit dumpling (cute!) and a (single) hargow.

So cute!

Whole suckling pig.

Plated. Notice how they have to stick some random vegetables on the plate so it doesn’t look empty. Fortunately, they didn’t plate the whole thing so there were fairly unlimited seconds of it available.

French style filet mignon and String Beans. Tony just can’t resist ordering this dish. It’s tender but boring.

Braised Tofu & Pea Leaves with Garlic.

Fried Rice with Red Chicken Sauce and Shrimp Cream. This is the “classic” yin yang rice.

Macau style egg tart.

Baked Crispy Pastry with Almond milk. Cool but a bit odd.

Fresh fruit.

Overall, Capital Seafood is quite solid SGV-style Cantonese banquet (as well as dimsum). I’d say that the food quality is about on par with middle of the road SGV Cantonese. Price is higher, but still not bad. They lean heavily on the MSG too. But today’s lunch was probably one of my least favorite meals here. The two table and individual plating thing meant that portions were small and the food was a bit cold.

Also, the whole two table thing is just not as fun as a single (even large) table. Having half the wines at one and half at the other is very chaotic.

I didn’t really like the white wine. There were a couple that were decent, but they are so heavy. I’d happily drink $20 2019 Fevre Chablis Villages over almost any of these, so I’m not even gonna bother to write them up. Some of the Pinots are pretty nice. Not like a great red burg, but at least like an enjoyable young red burg.

For my catalog of Chinese restaurant reviews in China, click here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Capital Seafood, Chardonnay, Chinese Food, Gelato, lunch, Sauvages, Wine, wine lunch

Return of the Khan — Meteora

Jul25

Restaurant: Meteora

Location: 6703 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 402-4311

Date: July 21, 2022

Cuisine: Primal Elfin

Rating: Late Red Medicine reborn

Meteora is the latest restaurant by Jordan Kahn. I’ve been following him for years, from Old Red Medicine, to Late Red Medicine, to Vespertine (on site), to Vespertine (at home), to Destroyer. He’s one “out of the box” chef for sure! Meteora is a new high end ala carte concept. it’s currently in soft opening, but as a “regular” customers (who ordered a bunch of takeout from Vespertine) Erick and I got invites.

It’s located in the old Auburn space (which was a great restaurant, BTW, and I was sad to see it close). I’ve actually eaten in at least 6 restaurants in this space: Citrus, Alex, something else, Hatfields, Auburn, and now Meteora. It’s a gorgeous space but must be somewhat cursed (probably too large).

Jordan clearly has a substantial investor pipeline because the build out is not only so “him” but is quite extensive. Really, the bones of the Auburn space are largely unchanged but they have grafted on a ton of primal, forested, elfin, Michael and Roger Dean details. It’s very dark, and really weird ambient music blares. It’s also scented like a forest. You just have to experience it.

The bar area and its whacky decor. It’s darker and moodier than these photos make it look, I brightened them up so things were visible.

The bar is like a weird Sleestak cave. Or something designed by Catalan genius Antoni Gaudí.

The cocktail tables, like most everything, are totally form over function. They are tiny, made of rock, and not even level. Barely usable at all!

The cocktail menu. Weird stuff. There is barely any wine yet. We brought ours. They do allow corkage fortunately, although it’s not cheap.

Pressed melon juice, anise hyssop, melon seed milk, aged grape liqueur, bee pollen-agave spirit.

Freshly-pressed sugar cane juice, lemongrass, jicama, ginger, biodynamic lime, wild corn and cane spirit.

Ancient purple corn, pressed plum juice, apricot seed, avocado leaf, opuntia, aged corn spirit.

The main dining room is just as weird as the bar — only larger. The open kitchen from Auburn is still there, only mostly blocked off. This space is huge. You can see how they have scaffolded the Alien Forest Gaudí details over the old Auburn interior.

It should be noted that the lighting in here is extremely minimal, and Jordan doesn’t like flashes, so photography was VERY difficult.

Welcome cocktail of “kombucha”.

From my cellar: NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Sous Bois. VM 92. Bright yellow. Pungent orchard fruit and lemon curd scents are complemented by suggestions of vanilla, anise and smoky minerals. Toasty and silky in texture, offering juicy pear and tangerine flavors plus a deeper suggestion of candied fig on the back half. Closes sappy, focused and long, with repeating smokiness and strong mineral cut.

The current menu.

Live Scallop. Lightly marinated in deep ocean water, dressed with smoked donganiza sausage, crunchy lovage steams, preserved apricots, Indian mallow, and crisps of giant kelp.

A liquified rendering of sausage was poured over it and then ground sausage sprinkled. The kelp can be seen on the left side. It was way too fragile to actually support placing the mix of scallop et al on top. But the unusual flavor of the scallops was delicious. Very rich with all that sausage fat. This set the pace for various systematic qualities of Meteora cuisine:

concealed ingredients
flowers, leaves and foliage on top
high fat “sauces”
complex and unusual pairings, tending to include sweet, savory, and “herbal”
very varied textures
bright colors mixed with earth tones
awkward methods of eating that don’t allow all the ingredients in the mouth at once
black bowls and awkward flatware

Bigfin Squid. Quickly grilled and seasoned with wild spruce and bird’s eye chile, with young coconut, ripe cherimoya, crunchy jicama, and a vibrant dressing of macadamia nut milk.

This was certainly a flavorful dish, one of our favorites. The black crisp was almost solid enough to support the squid, although it tended to break into small pieces. The textures were both soft and crunchy and firm. The flavors were spicy and assertive and distinctively southeast asian. There was a coconut acidic tone. Excellent.

Avocado Pie. Biodynamic avocados cooked in hot ashes, flaky crust of avocado leaf and einkorn flour, grilled strawberries, caramelized lettuce, herbs and leaves of the moment, finished with spanish peanuts, burnt onion and a warm bone marrow vinaigrette (pure fat again!).

Here after they basically poured molten bone marrow on top and sprinkled with the peanuts. This giant “tart” fragmented instantly. It did taste great but the failed attempts to get any reasonable percentage of the components into one’s mouth at any one time were a bit frustrating.

From my cellar: 2012 Prager Riesling Federspiel Steinriegl. 94 points. Screwcap. Slightly off-dry, barely any development. Didn’t have the exotic fruit that I sometimes get from riper vintages in Austria but instead it had lots of tart yellow fruit accompanied by an impressive steely minerality. Liked this a lot, a textbook Riesling. Just a shame this producer is so difficult to source here.

Caramelized Lobster Rice. heirloom indica brown rice crisped in black claw, grilled lobster glazed with black jaggery and sugar kelp, roasted fruits of the moment, black butter, sea lettuce, and a crisp of roasted brazil nuts and allepo chile.

The rice and lobster were (as usual) hidden under the foliage. This was a powerfully flavored dish — bursting with all sorts of tastes — except that of lobster. It was very good, but mostly tasted of exotic spices. The texture was primarily “wild rice” like. It was pretty spicy and so went well with the riesling.

Wild Pacific Dungeness Crab. Gently warmed over the embers and dressed with coconut fat infused with roasted crab shells and allspice, cucumber molasses, slow roasted turnips, and slices of heirloom banana.

You can’t see it in the photo but there was actually a lot of crab under the layer of greens. Once mixed up it had lots of crab in butter flavor. The other elements were interesting. I fortunately did not seem to get a bite of banana, which I hate. People thought it an “unusual” pairing. As you can see, this had most of the hallmarks of Meteora dishes.

Red Sea Bream. Grilled on the skin and wrapped in banana leaf, dried cacao flower, wild iceplant, served with a praline of smoked chiles, hazelnuts, and clove.

The net effect here was grilled fish with an excellent and powerful mole negro (black mole). The sauce was spicy with a hint of chocolate, cinnamon, and clove. This was one of our favorite dishes. It was also quite spicy.

Wildflower Porridge Bread. Baked in a clay pan and brushed with coastal wildflower honey and aged goat’s milk cheese, served with a condiment of charred heirloom peppers and passionfruit juice, with fresh buffalo milk curds.

The bread was dense and crispy under the pile of cheese. Much like a cornbread. The white topping was basically a buffalo ricotta. The red one tasted like Muhammara. Fairly nice, if very rich. The combo of the dairy and the “Muhammara” is something I do all the time at Lebanese and Armenian places by putting lebneh and Muhammara on pita together. This variant worked as well.

Wild Fire Morels. Grilled over smokeless coals, served with swiss chard stuffed with a jam of roasted duck jus, overripe plantain glazed with tamarind, spruce tips, and a griddled flatbread of young coconut and burnt wheat.

This is the flat bread. It was thick and delicious. I stuck a bit of everything else in there. It was quite good, very meaty, and rather unusual. The spruce was INTENSE. Most chefs do not cook with spruce!

Erick brought: 2005 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé. VM 94. The 2005 Dom Pérignon Rosé is an attractive, persistent wine with plenty of character. Sweet dried cherry, mint and rose petals are some of the many nuances that develop with air. Savory notes that are on the edge of vegetal and a real feeling of tannin from the 27% still red Pinot in the blend give the 2005 a decidedly savory edge. (Drink between 2020-2030)

Smoked Beef Rib. Rubbed with wild pine resin and gently smoked overnight, served with an array of grilled heirloom cucumbers, green melons, tamarind reduction, and a spicy paste of green peppercorn and coriander.

In the back here is the ring of odd “condiments” and the fabulous spicy pesto-like green paste. The meat itself was very rich and pastrami like with a great smoked flavor. It worked very well with the spicy paste. The crunchy cucumbers and the like were more “interesting.” Pine resin. haha!

Tamarind sauce on the left.

California Lamb. Coated with a paste of roasted cacao and panca chiles then slow-smoked over live oak embers, served with candied green papaya, charred collard leaf, roasted beats, and a sauce of elderberries and aged rum.

As usual for Jordan the protein was all hidden under some vegetation. There was actually plenty of lamb here (once one broke through). It was a bit well done but had tons of flavor.

The beets actually tasted fairly “normal.”

The dessert menu.

Strawberries. Lightly warmed over the embers, dressed with cherry pit kombucha and virgin almond oil, an ancient almond “cake” wrapped in aromatic fig leaf, whipped buckwheat cream.

This is the hard crunchy “ancient almond cake”. It was very crumbly, like shortcake, and you took some of the buckwheat cream and sauce and strawberries and made a kind of falling all over the place nordic strawberry shortcake. Very tasty though, even if it adhered to almost all of the “rules” of Meteora cuisine, including it’s inability to stay on the terrible modernist wooden flat flatware.

Buckwheat cream.

Cherry pit kombucha.

Redwood Ice. Ripe California kiwi dressed with green olive oil, sweet cream custard infused with crushed lemongrass, shaved coconut, puree of roasted almond cookies.

This was my favorite and was like a Filipino dessert with Thai and California redwood flavors.

Sweet Corn. Frozen sweet corn custard, crispy ancient cereals, a caramelized crepe made from almond, coconut, and psyllium husk, roasted pecan butter, wild candycaps, and a light cream of aged rum.

Mild and soothing flavors. A lot of textures going on here. It wasn’t super sweet, more primal and foresty.

We closed out the place, so I got to take a picture after it was empty.

Meteora will be polarizing for sure. I found it largely successful, at times brilliant. The experience is one-of-a-kind. The dishes are beautiful, unique, and mostly delicious. They are weird and a bit hard to eat, and you certainly wouldn’t want to come here alone — or really with 2 people — it pretty much requires exactly 3-4. I will repeat some of the features of the food:

concealed ingredients
flowers, leaves and foliage on top
high fat “sauces”
complex and unusual pairings, tending to include sweet, savory, and “herbal”
very varied textures
bright colors mixed with earth tones
awkward methods of eating that don’t allow all the ingredients in the mouth at once
black bowls and awkward flatware

And add some odd details about the service experience:

Decor is really cool, but very form over function. For example our mushroom shaped table was very uncomfortable. There was no where to put one’s legs.
It’s so dark that a phone light is absolutely required to read the menu or see the food.
The odd shaped table barely fit one dish.
Odd (but appropriate) ambient music was quite loud. At the same time the servers were instructed to whisper.
The whole restaurant is scented (like a forest)
Staff were all super nice and very excited to be there.
Plates, wine glasses, flatware etc were all gorgeous but marginally functional. The flatware was hyper flat and food fell off it. The wineglasses had no steams, were heavy, not of crystal, and had a hyper annoying turned in lip that made them difficult to actually drink from.
Dietary restrictions seem like they would be impossible to navigate. The dishes have so many ingredients and are so integrated.
Not good for anyone who likes to know exactly what they are eating.
Beverage options for those not bringing wine or loving really exotic cocktails are fairly limited.

For me, as most of this doesn’t bother me too much, this is the best incarnation yet of the “Jordan Khan” style. The food was delicious and had more “protein” than Vespertine. He’s a very talented “chef” (artist?) as is able to push the boundaries of what you expect food to be like while mostly still keeping it delicious. I found Meteora tasted better than Vespertine and was closer in style and spirit to “Late Red Medicine” but more advanced. It’s in this primal forest elfin style that doesn’t really have a clear definition. Hard to explain, but there is a consistency to all the elements food, decor, music, scent, style, and even the hard-to-use flatware.

I hope they change up the menu frequently, which knowing Jordan is likely. If they do it’ll be interesting to keep trying.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (1)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Foodie Club, Jordan Kahn, Meteora, Wine

Old Baroli at Etta

Jul23

Restaurant: Etta

Location: 8801 Washington Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232. (424) 570-4444

Date: November 10, 2021 and June 10, 2022

Cuisine: Italian Wood-fire grill

Rating: Tasty, hearty

Etta is a new “transplant” from Chicago bringing a sort of modern Italian American wood-fire grill thing to LA.

It’s located adjacent to the Shay boutique hotel in Culver City.

The interior is large and attractive with a lively bar scene.

On 11/10/22 we brought an all Italian slate of mostly old Baroli, plus this bonus white of mine.

2015 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. AG 93+. Good bright yellow. The pure, complex nose suggests lime, yellow apple and botanical herbs. Then very precise, intense and penetrating, if still youthfully unevolved, conveying a powerful, three-dimensional impression of extract and a deep, textured, multilayered mouthfeel. The wine closes very long and juicy, with herbal and saline elements that titillate the taste buds. Another outstanding wine from Valentini, who never misses a beat with his Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.

1937 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva.

1958 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva.

1961 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva.

1964 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva.

1967 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva.

1970 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo.

1978 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva.

The menu in November 2021.

And in June 2022.

Fire- baked focaccia. Ricotta, honey, truffle. Nice and fluffy.

Meatballs. Sunday sauce, fire-wilted kale, herbed yogurt, grilled bread. A bit of heat.

Roasted eggplant. Tahini ricotta, buttered hazelnuts, Calabrian chie, herb salad. Pretty darn spicy actually.

Bubbling shrimp. Ginger, chiltepin chile, mint.

Rack-roasted oysters. smoked-tomato butter, lovage, lemon.

Grilled pork jowl. Smashed cucumbers, peanuts, herb salad.

Little Gem Salad. Avocado, cucumbers, creme fraiche vinaigrette. Nice textures.

Pizza toppings.

Wild Mushroom Pizza. Goat cheese, black truffle raclette. Excellent except for the truffle oil.

Fire Pizza. Sausage, giardiniera, chile de arbol. Spicy sausage basically.

Cacio e pepe agnolotti. Pecorino, black pepper.

Lumache. Sun gold pomodoro, basil, olive oil.

Casarecce bolognese. Parmesan fondue.

Spaghettone. Uni, lemon, black pepper.

Orecchiette. Crispy sausage, cavolo nero, tomato jus, fennel pollon. Lots of hearty flavor. Some spice.

Cacio e pepe. Mafaldine, pecorino, black pepper. Lovely, nice emulsion.

Orecchiette with red sauce.

Brussels sprouts. Honey dijon vinaigrette, crispy bacon, dill yogurt, herbs.

Market haricot vrt. Grilled romano beans, sweet peppers, lemon vinaigrette, purslane.

40oz bone-in hearth-roasted short rib. This is the fixings tower.

Herbs.

Pickles, sauces, and more herbs.

The actual meat. 40oz bone-in hearth-roasted short rib. You made your own pita/taco like things out of this. delicious.

Bread and “sauce”?

Dry-aged whole branzino. Brown butter, capers, parsley, lemon.

Spinalis. Last of the season tomatoes, wild arugula, parmesan & date vinegar.

Hanger steak. Tamarind glazed bok choy, pepita butter, charred cipollini, crispy buckwheat. Nice steak.

Dessert menus from the two days.

Mint chip semifreddo. Devil’s food cake, creme de menthe, chocolate sorbet.

Chocolate ice cream. Caramel, brownies.

Strawberry ice cream. Olive oil, sea salt.

Double Chocolate Mousse. Feuilletine crunch, dark chocolate cremeux, banana sherbert, oreo crumbs.

Etta was good. Hearty and perhaps just as much American as it is Italian — maybe more than 50% — but it is pretty tasty. The space is large, loud, and attractive. Service was pretty good. Very friendly for sure, although I had to go “grab” some glasses because I’m impatient.

Our wines on this Barolo night (the second visit was more casual) were really awesome. Old Borgogno rocks!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Barolo, Culver City, Etta, Foodie Club, Italian cuisine, pasta, Pizza, Wine

Chengdu Impression

Jul21

Restaurant: Chengdu Impression

Location: 21 E Huntington Dr, Arcadia, CA 91006. (626) 462-9999

Date: November 7, 2021 and May 1, 2022

Cuisine: Sichuan Chinese

Rating: Great kitchen, terrible service

I wanted to go here for years but a combination of distance, the pandemic, and the challenge of getting Sichuan groups together made it a bit hard. Finally I got here in late 2021 and the kitchen was so good we swore to go again.

It’s located in the North SGV, more Arcadia, on a busy street.

The interior is modern and deserted. Both times almost no other customers. They have 2 privates rooms as well.

This is the upstairs. The first time we ate up here.

The second time we had the large private room.

This is the menu — however, both times, despite my attempts in advance to pre-order stuff, they were “out” of a mysterious range of items. I think it’s staff shortages in the kitchen honestly.

Cold Tossed Cucumber. The second time we tried to order this (on the second visit) they were “out” supposedly because the chef declared that the sauce was “too complicated.” This has to be some kind of staff shortage.

Hot and Sour Jelly Noodle. Good, but could have used a bit more sour to my taste. Texture was on point. Notice the take out container. They really wanted to service us everything in these crap containers with plastic forks and spoons. I went and had a talk with the manager and only by playing up the blog card managed to get them to use real plates. I think they have returned their rental dishwasher or something.

Sliced Pork Belly with Spicy Garlic Sauce. The sauce in particular was incredible. Really awesome and on the second visit when we tried to reorder, again the chef declared the sauce “too complicated” and wouldn’t serve it. Weird!

Boiled Pork Dumplings. Because they were out of the wontons on the first visit. These were basic.

But on the second visit we managed to get wontons! Numbing Spicy Wonton. Nice soft wrapper, very intense numbing sauce (almost a soup).

Couples Sliced Beef and Tripe. Good sauce, beef was a bit tough.
Chinese bread for the beef.

Pungent and Spicy Chicken. Sauce was full of chilis and quite excellent. I particularly liked the bamboo shoots in here.

Chicken in Chili Sauce. Different, less “oily” variant than I usually find.

Cold Chicken Noodles. Really excellent noodle dish with that sweet and tangy quality.

Pickled garlic!

Sliced Sole Filet and Tofu in Sichuan Peppercorn Sauce. Delicious and perfect rendition of the dish. Super moist and soft fish with lots of numbing. Not as spicy as Sichuan Impression.

Kung Pao Shrimp. Delicate and almost floral. Incredible version. There might be some lychee in here for sweetness.

Spicy Lobster (preorder). Nice tender meat and good flavor. They did charge a LOT for this, however. Pre-ordered and brought too early because they can’t resist bringing the pre-order stuff.

Bullfrog Dry Pot with Sichuan Vegetables. Awesome version of this dish, particularly the crunchy lotus root and soft potato.

Braised Sea Cucumber with Minced Pork. The pork was awesome. The cucumber was a bit chewy (and not so strong on flavor).

Bullfrog Stewed with Spicy Ginger Broth. One of the classic Sichuan Bullfrog variants. Quite nice meat.

Beef Tendon. Very jiggly, but nice.

Shredded Beef with Sour Sauce. Interesting.

Chengdu Style Beef Jerky. Very dry but a lot of flavor.

Honey Roasted Duck (Pre-order). Really excellent, super jucy sweet duck. Polarizing as Yarom and David didn’t like the sweet. The rest of us loved it.

Country Style Sliced Pork with Shisito Peppers. Excellent meat with great salty flavor.

Angus Beef Ribs. Interesting. Very fatty, but quite a lot of flavor.

Crispy Spciy Diced Chicken. Fabulous version of this dish with plenty of aromatic chili vibe and a very darkly 2-3 time fried chicken.

Wok Fried Cabbage with Garlic and Minced Pork. Super delicious with a nice crunch and good pork flavor.

Twice Cooked Pork. Perfect. Leeks were great.

Dan Dan Mein.

Mixed up. The flavor was quite good, if a touch sweet.

Mapo Tofu. Very good version of the dish. Not that hot, but lots of numbing and deep flavor.

Raspberry Sorbetto — French Raspberries, a touch of lime juice, and a splash of Amaro — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — I had to add a bit of Amaro for my “art” otherwise it would have been too simple — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #raspberry #amaro

Hazelnut at the Ritz Gelato — Nocciola (hazelnut) custard base made with Pure PGI Piedmont hazelnut paste then mixed with house-made caramel and crushed Ritz Crackers (for that salty offset) — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #hazelnut #nocciola #caramel #caramello #ritz #crackers

My son’s favorite — Triple Chocolate Cloud Gelato – The base is made with Valrhona 62% Satilla Chocolate and then layered with Dark Chocolate Cream Cheese Ganache and chopped Oreos! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #Valrhona #chocolate #oreos #ganache #icing #NestléCrunch

So in summary:

I think the actual Sichuan kitchen here is great, maybe the best I’ve had in the greater LA area. But there are serious problems with the operation.

They are clearly “barely in business.” The restaurant is empty and given how crowded most SGV restaurants are this is hardly a good sign. They tried both times to serve on plastic wares. The front of house staff, while friendly, lounged around a good deal of the time. They didn’t replace plates, clear stuff very often, or bring napkins etc. We had to constantly go out to find them to get things and to order — only to discover them chatting with each other in the hall. The kitchen was out of items both times. Oddly out of stuff. We also had a third “failed” dinner between these two where they canceled it on us because they were “doing renovations.” I suspect they were just short staffed or had some permitting issue. The unavailability of basic dishes like cold cucumbers because the sauce was “too complicated” was laughable. Even in the private room where they will give you real plates they gave us mostly plastic silverware.

Additionally, the second visit was oddly expensive. It seems they priced the pre-order dishes (like the lobster and duck) really high. Maybe $200-300+ for just the lobster!

Anyway, it’s really a shame that they have these logistical issues because the subtlety of the cooking is for the most part very good and they do have a lot of interesting items on the menu (when they are in “stock”).

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Chengdu Impression, Chinese cuisine, Chinese Food, Gelato, hedonists, SGV, Sichuan, Sichuan Cuisine, spicy, Wine

Girl & the Goat

Jul11

Restaurant: Girl & the Goat [1, 2]

Location: 555-3 Mateo St, Los Angeles, CA 90013. (213) 799-4628

Date: November 2, 2021

Cuisine: Modern American

Rating: Very tasty, 2 bottle limit

Last fall (yes I’m very behind in my posts), “people” kept going on about how great this new Chicago transplant by Chef Stephanie Izard was. So off we went.

They are located in a fairly cute offshoot area of downtown I don’t think I have been to.

Swank build out, although we (fortunately) sat outside.

The menu.

Marked up with our orders.

One disadvantage to GATG is that they have one of those new terrible wine lists with most domestic weird cheap wines at inflated prices, COUPLED WITH (and they usually go together), a nominal 2 bottle corkage limit. I’m not going to rant again too long about the 2 bottle limit but… places should just charge a fair (unlimited) corkage that approximates their profit.

We did buy 2 bottles off the list. As usual there were basically no reds I would want to drink on the list, most are grapes I would never drink or way too young. There were 1-2 pleasant whites. Not sure there even was a white Burg, and if there was it would have been some off location village wine.

Agro de Bazan Albariño Rías Baixas Granbazán Etiqueta Ambar. This was a fine wine. Of course it was like $80 for a $20 bottle.

NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé. Always great, but like 4X what I’d normally pay for it.

Roasted Oysters. Clam baguette, sausage butter, oyster sauce mayo, finger limes.

The guts slid out onto a toast (which is how you are supposed to eat it).

Hamachi crudo. Browned goat butter, goat crema, pickled apple, tempura crunch, sesame seed.

Shrimp and crispy greens. Avocado, tangerine, pickled veggies, pepita crunch, limey-herby dressing.

Pan-roasted scallops. Chili relish, peanut-popiah crunch.

From my cellar: 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape. VM 93. The 1990 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a compelling bouquet of plump red fruit, oxtail, leather and morels, all well defined and full of chutzpah. The palate is smooth in texture and, at 29 years old, has certainly mellowed. There is a core of sweet fruit here, but it has softened with age and delivers a smorgasbord of second flavors: meat juices, clove and touches of fennel. It does not possess the audacity of the Hommage à Jacques Perrin, yet it has retained effortless charm. (Drink between 2019-2036)

1972 Xavier Vignon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Xavier 1972. This is not really a 1972. It’s blended or reconditioned.

Pork liver mousse. Crumpets, biscuit crackers, pickle persimmon, blueberry mostarda.

Duck tartare. Gochujang mayo, sesame, plums, fried brussels.

1989 Château Rausan-Ségla. VM 94. The 1989 Rauzan-Ségla is a vintage that to my surprise, I had not tasted since September 2007. Just like then it represents the high point of the decade and augured a much brighter future in terms of quality. At three decades old it has a beautiful bouquet, so elegant with brambly red fruit, cedar and rose petals, very Barolo in style and less exotic than previous bottles. The palate remains youthful and like the aromatics, comes across so finessed with superb delineation and natural balance. There is even a dab of honey on the sensual finish. Certainly à point, this Margaux is highly recommended. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at Hatched restaurant. (Drink between 2019-2035)

Roasted shishitos. Harissa-tahini yogurt, parmesan, garlic crunch.

Confit Goat Belly. Tasty broth, plum pickle relish, spiced pecan crunch.

Grilled corn. Spiced coconut caramel, cotija, tajin.

Beef short rib. Gochujang, apple-cucumber salad.

1999 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia. VM 95. The 1999 Ornellaia (magnum) does not disappoint. This vivid, energetic wine emerges from the glass with a myriad of graphite, menthol, licorice, leather and dark fruit wrapped around a powerful core. The bouquet alone is worth the price of admission. Though not as opulent as the 1997, the 1999 offers exceptional length and a finessed, regal close. The 1999 Ornellaia is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 18 months in French oak (60% new) prior to being bottled. (Drink between 2009-2021)

Special pre-reserved giant goat back with all sorts of salad, sauces and breads. Meat was actually a little bit dry but all the condiments juiced it right up. A LOT of food.

Pickled salad (and sauces).

A mushroom salad.

Breads.

Goat Curry. Masa chips, radish, pickled vegetables. Yummy! Getting very full.

A sort of butterscotch type thing. Descriptions are vague because they just brought and comped the desserts and I didn’t see any menu.

Chocolate.

Chocolate and orange or something.

Fruity.

Food here is really good. Almost all of the dishes were really tasty. Very savory, fatty, salty and all that, but full of zest and punch. Chef Izzard was in the house on the night we went.

Service was also quite excellent. Very nice, attentive, and all that. The patio location outside was fabulous.

I’ll try to go back again this year and try more dishes (even if we did a pretty good job on the menu). It was really delicious.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or for epic Foodie Club meals, here.

By: agavin
Comments (1)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: 2 bottle limit, Chef Stephanie Izard, Girl & the Goat, goat, Wine

Happy at Happy Harbor

Jul08

Restaurant: Happy Harbor

Location: 1015 Nogales St, West Covina, CA 91792. 626-965-2020

Date: October 30, 2021

Cuisine: Cantonese Chinese

Rating: Great cantonese

Yarom discovered this place during the day (for dim sum) not too long ago and as it was really great in that mode we decided to hit it for Sunday dinner.

Happy Harbor is a medium sized Cantonese located right next to Mandarin plaza, a “far east” (Hacienda Heights ish) area we have eaten at again and again.

The interior is classic Cantonese.

With the tanks.

And the over-decorated private room which was where we set up shop.

On table to start, cucumbers. A bit sweet.

Peanuts.

The show off the live “creatures.”

Cold plate. Roast Pork, Roast Duck or Chicken, Jellyfish, Macau style pork belly.

Tofu with preserved egg. Oddly sweet and not one of my favorite versions.

Lobster with garlic and ginger. Very tender.

“Spot prawns” in a crunchy very fried Typhoon style. Not immensely garlicky but the prawns themselves were very well cooked.

Quail. Excellent version.

Peking duck skin. Not enough, but good. Buns unfortunately instead of pancakes.

Peking duck meat/bones. Lots of meat here, more should have been cut onto the other plate.

Duck letuce cups (from same duck). Good but no hoison at the time. Radically insufficient hoison.

The actual lettuce.

Chicken “Knees.” Great flavor!

Beef ribs and egg plant. Nice.

Vermicelli pancake with beef and eggy sauce. Delicious “pizza.”

Pork chops. Very friend. Ok.

Tripe.

XLB. A little under-seasoned.

Free custard buns. Nice.

Pistachio Cardamom Gelato — Sicilian Pistachio di Bronte with Cardamom infused milk — pretty awesome new flavor! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #pistachio #cardamom #sicily

Happy Harbor was quite seriously good, definitely in the top tier of Cantonese kitchens (of the many) in the SGV. A bit further than most, but excellent.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (1)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Cantonese cuisine, Chinese Food, duck, Gelato, Happy Harbor, hedonists, SGV, squab, Wine

Tiempo de Tatel

Jul02

Restaurant: Tatel

Location: 453 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 651-8553

Date: October 26, 2021

Cuisine: About half Spanish

Rating: Tasty, great service, loud

This Vega Sicilia Unico dinner moved around a little bit but eventually settled on the new (for LA) Tatel in Beverly Hills.

Tatel is a Spanish restaurant with locations in Madrid and Ibiza that recently opened here in Beverly Hills in the classic Nic’s Martini bar in Beverly Hills.

The interior is updated a bit but still filled with gorgeous booths.

Sebastian with the chef.

The menu.

From my cellar: NV Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Cuvée de Réserve. VM 92. The NV Brut Cuvée de Réserve Grand Cru is fabulous. A Champagne of tension and energy, the Cuvée de Réserve has real presence, not to mention tons of class. Citrus, jasmine, mint and crushed rocks are some of the many nuances that race out of the glass. In this release, the Cuvée de Réserve has a light tropical quality that is both exotic and hugely appealing. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2021. (Drink between 2021-2028)

Burrata Salad. Tomato, basil. Pretty modern salad, not particularly Spanish.

Bluefin Tuna Tartar. Avocado, Fresno chili, chive. Kind of a nod to modern dining.

Spanish Carabineros Prawn. Avocado escabeche. Not exactly gambas pil pil.

1989 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. AG 95+. Saturated dark, fresh red. Exotic dried fruits complicated by minerals, cedar, cigar box and nuts on the nose. Huge, dense and solid, with great sappy redcurrant and wild strawberry sweetness buffered by powerful acids. With its huge concentration and extraordinarily chewy extract, this has fruit of steel. The wine’s explosive, extremely long finish and great thrust go beyond 99.99% of the world’s wines. (Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA)

1994 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. VM 95+. Full ruby-red. Knockout nose combines roasted blackberry, minerals, cedar, graphite and flowers; reminded me of a very ripe vintage of Chateau Lafite. Creamy and sweet, but with penetrating, perfectly integrated acids and a structure of steel. Powerful yet wonderfully elegant wine, with flavors of crushed redcurrant, minerals, flowers, chocolate and truffle. Finishes with great length and grip. An outstanding vintage for Unico, with the sheer acid structure and flavor intensity to go on in bottle for at least another two decades. . (Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA)

Steak Tartar. Dijon, chives, shallots, sourdough. Pretty classic but very nice tartar.

Jamon de bellota 100%, COVAP D.O. The real deal ham.

Bread with tomato and garlic. This is a fairly deconstructed version of the pan con tomate. You rub the garlic on the bread. However usually they pre-chop the tomatoes for you. Personally I think the best combo is the ham ON the tomato bread.

Ham Croquette. Tomato Sugo, parsley. Solid version of the classic.

1996 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. VM 94. Deep ruby. Complex, heady bouquet of kirsch, candied plum, cured tobacco, licorice, dried rose and cedar. Pungent herbal notes build with aeration and repeat on the palate, adding complexity to the deep, ripe cherry and dark berry liqueur flavors. Remarkably elegant wine with precise cherry/berry flavors and a slow-mounting mocha quality on the long, sappy finish. There’s a very impressive interplay of fruit and tannins here. (Europvin USA, Oakland, CA)

1999 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. AG 96. Ruby-red. Shockingly deep in color for a ten-year-old wine. Explosive aromas of cherry compote, black raspberry, blood orange, Asian spices and smoky minerals. Pure, vibrant and sweet, offering intense cherry and red berry flavors, with tangy mineral spine and an exotic smokiness. Extremely deep but energetic, with a powerful echo of minerals and singed orange on the endless finish. This is remarkably youthful but highly alluring already. (Europvin USA, Van Nuys, CA)

They have a couple different types of “rice” (risotto and paella). We ordered this and two paellas.

Tatel Risotto. Semolina Orzo, parmesan cheese, truffle. Nice risotto, even if that form of rice isn’t old school Spanish.

Roasted Cornish Hen Paella. Porcini Mushrooms, thyme.

Individually plated.

Carabineros Paella. Carabineros prawn.

A more seafood variant. Nicely cooked and good flavor.

Grilled Colorado lamb rack. Very well executed, but pretty “international.”

Tatel Veal Milanese. Soft poached egg, Black truffle. Rich and bit mild in flavor.

Boomsdale Spinach. Garlic.

1989 Château Suduiraut. VM 90. The 1989 Suduiraut has always shown better than the 1990. The bouquet is quite vivacious with quince and frangipane, hints of pear and crème brûlée, certainly responding to aeration. The palate has similar weight and texture to the 1990 although, there is slightly more tension here with orange rind and marmalade imparting Barsac-like notes towards the finish. It lacks the sophistication of 21st century vintages but there is joie-de-vivre here. 89gm/L residual sugar. Tasted at a private dinner in Switzerland. (Drink between 2019-2029)

Dessert menu.

Apple Tart. Good, but grainy mild ice cream.

Tatel World Famous Cheese Cake (Basque Cheese Cake, but not burnt). Perfect creamy light texture on the cake. Ice cream mediocre. The interior was stellar actually, and on point for Basque cheese cake, but the top wasn’t really burnt.
This was a great evening. Wines ruled, of course — Unico duh!

The build out and and service at Tatel was top notch for modern high end restaurants. Additionally, given that we were a 4 person “wine group” at a trendy Beverly Hills restaurant I was surprised how nice and accommodating they were. None of that trendy place BS. Food was very high quality. I was skeptical going in as it looked pretty international, and it was in its way, but the kitchen is good and dishes were generally well executed. I’m slightly weirded out by the mix of classic Spanish dishes (again, well done) and what I think of as “boring BH staples” like Burrata Salad or Tomahawk Steaks. Half the restaurants in 1st tier cities has devolved into the Tomahawk. It’s like the goat cheese and beet salad, burrata, or hamachi with jalapeño and ponzu. So personally I would have preferred an updated (and Tatel is updated) take on roast lamb shoulder, suckling pig, etc. Or better yet LA desperately needs anything good smacking of the kind of modern Basque restaurants to be found in… well the actual Basque region. So Tatel feels like a Basque Mom who married Arnie Morton.

It should be noted that La Paella is the old school 1970s variant of this kind of place (minus any of the trendy). It’s a good place too and quite Spanish, but it’s also very dated and “old fashioned.” It’d be nice to get more modern Spanish in LA.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Foodie Club, Paella, Spanish Cuisine, Tatel, Unico, Vega Sicilia, Wine

Rockin’ Ten Raku

Jun20

Restaurant: Ten Raku

Location: 4177 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90020. (213) 380-8382

Date: Oct 21, 2021

Cuisine: KBBQ

Rating: Solid old school KBBQ

Chevy setup tonight’s dinner and he chose KBBQ because he loves meat and any excuse for big red wines. Not that I’m complaining too much.

Ten Raku is a classic KTown KBBQ place place.

It’s kinda old school, and given the state of the pandemic was fairly quiet.

The menu has a decent number of options. This is good, sometimes I feel that some Korean places are too focused.

1995 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Cuvée Fleur de Champagne. VM 88+. Strong mousse. Restrained aromas of lemon rind, lime, honeysuckle and chalk. Tightly wound, firm and quite refined; almost hard today and distinctly backward. Finishes long, brisk and dry, with bracing lemony acidity. (I also tasted a far less fresh bottle, which showed tired aromas of apple and pear.) There’s been a change of importer since last year, so ask your merchant for this fall’s shipment. (Allied Domecq Wines U.S.A., Healdsburg, CA)

From my cellar: 2018 Azienda Agricola Valentini Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. VM 92. Bright pink. Minerals, fava beans, pomegranate and violet on the bright nose. Then very harmonious in its acid-fruit-tannin profile, with lively balanced acidity nicely extending the flavors similar to the aromas on the long back end. Strikes me as a rather refined, sneakily concentrated Cerasuolo. (Drink between 2019-2025)

Typical “free” salad.

Banchan.

Bean sprouts.

Mac Salad.

Pickles.

Spicy pickled cucumber.

Kimchee.

My personal favorite the chewy fish cake.

Another spicy something.

Seafood pancake. Egg batter with flour, green onions, belly peppers and octopus served with a soy vinegar dipping sauce.

Fluffy egg soufflé.

Besides beef, Ten Raku specializes in octopus, so of course we had to get some. This is some kind of Jeon Gol, a Korean Stew with octopus and various vegetables and noodles.

It all gets cooked down and then…

Served up like this for some chili flavored deliciousness.

Then they dump a bunch of rice into the broth and fry it up into spicy fried rice (with a lot of flavor).

1994 Château Haut-Brion. VM 93-95. Fabulous smoky, roasted, black fruit and tobacco nose, with a sappy urgency. Like liquid velvet in the mouth; gives a saline impression of extract. Very fresh and bright, with uncanny sweetness. Explosive finishing fruit buries the uncommonly fine tannins. One of the very few ’94s that truly stains the palate.

1996 Château Cos d’Estournel. VM 93. The 1996 Cos d’Estournel has a fragrant, Pauillac-tinged bouquet with the melted tar and graphite leitmotifs that I remarked upon in previous encounters. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy-textured tannin. I feel that the 1996 shows a tad more maturity than a few months ago, with undergrowth and peat-like notes surfacing with aeration and then a dash of white pepper streaking across the finish. However, it evinces fine persistency and embraces the classic tropes of the 1996 vintages. Though not a top tier Cos d’Estournel, it remains an excellent Saint-Estèphe. Tasted at the Cos d’Estournel vertical at the property. (Drink between 2018-2035)

1997 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon. VM 94+. Bright deep ruby. Blackberry, violet, tar, shoe polish and game on the nose, plus a light floral note; at once vibrant and surmuri. Superconcentrated, remarkably intense flavors of crystallized black cherry, cassis and licorice. An extremely persistent wine of noteworthy finesse, yet also one with a powerful structure for aging. One of the standouts of the vintage.

1997 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne. VM 93-95. Full, saturated ruby, by a wide margin the darkest of these ’97s. Spicy, high-pitched aromas of cassis, black cherry, licorice, flint and tar. Densely packed but currently tightly wound and dominated by its structure. Shows a restrained sweetness and complicating hints of leather, flint and tar. More tannic than the Mouline or Turque but here, too, the tannins are quite fine. Very long on the palate. A lovely expression of syrah from a very ripe year.

1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia. VM 94. Full ruby. Supersweet aromas of blackberry, cassis, bitter chocolate, espresso and tobacco. Thick and seamless yet bright and sharply defined. Very long and spicy on the aftertaste, with excellent grip. Sweet tannins coat the teeth. Williams says the selection for Insignia is based on quality and concentration rather than on a particular flavor profile.

1995 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley. VM 89. Healthy dark red. Plum, coffee and chicory on the nose. Savory redcurrant fruit is complemented by well-integrated oak notes of coffee and chocolate. With good salinity and energy, there’s nothing heavy about this Cabernet. Finishes with firm, fine-grained tannins that avoid dryness. No easy sweetness but nicely ripe and persistent. À point right now. (Drink between 2016-2020)

1997 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso. VM 94. What a treat it is to taste the 1997 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Pianrosso on this day. Medium-red in color, it offers an expressive, ethereal nose with notes of roses, tar and tobacco that float out of the glass along with soft, perfumed fruit in a delicate, captivating interplay of sensations and aromas. Although this bottle had been decanted for three hours prior to my visit to the estate it nevertheless appeared somewhat closed. Still fresh, it promises to provide memorable drinking for at least another decade although my guess is that the wine’s structure will ultimately outlast the fruit. Regardless, it is utterly irresistible right now. Anticipated maturity (Drink between 2013-2014)

Cold mustardy noodles with beef and veggies. They actually put ice in here that melts.to get it nice and chilled. They are both spicy, tangy, and mustardy.

Korean style beef tartare. Always a great take on beef tartare as it has bits of pear and a sweet and tangy marinate.

Our full spread of uncooked meat! This is the core KBBQ deal.

Some close ups of all that beef. KBBQ doesn’t actually photo that well as it’s really tedious to remember all the different cuts and show them cooking and then cooked.

Some cut on the grill.

And a few minutes later.

The big rib eye.

More meat.

Daikon slices in case one wants to wrap up the meat.

Pickles, garlic, and chiles.

Spicy bean paste. You can add all the elements and some meat together to make a delicious Korean wrap.

Pork belly on the grill.

And more cooked.

Strawberries & Mascar-Creamy Gelato — A base infused with Mascarpone Cheese then blended with house-made Strawberry Curd — created by me for @sweetmilkgelato — my vain attempts to pipe a pretty decoration on top were uttery foiled by timing –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #cheesecake #mascarpone #cheese #strawberry #cream

This was a fun and solid meal. Some of the beef was a bit too “straight up” for me — aka not marinated — but there were a bunch of interesting extras like the noodles, pancake, and octopus stew. Quality was high. Service good. If you want the classic 80s/90s KBBQ style (ignoring AYCE which I always do as it’s pointless), this is a great place. There are newer glitzier places like Gwang Yang which have a much hipper vibe, but the actual meat isn’t much different.

Our wines were generally great even if there were a couple new worlds in there. Unfortunately one of mine was a bit corked. Sigh.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: beef, BYOG, Foodie Club, Gelato, KBBQ, Korean BBQ, Ktown, Meat, Ten Raku, Wine

Awesome Asuka

Jun12

Restaurant: Asuka

Location: 1553 Westwood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90024. (424) 832-7284

Date: October 16, 2021

Cuisine: Japanese / Sushi

Rating: Great neighborhood sushi

At one of our endless expensive sushi places Joe and Bonnie insisted that we try Asuka, which is a Westwood “local” or neighborhood sushi place they feel has really good quality. So of course we took them up on the offer.

The menu.

2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. VM 99. The 2002 Cristal is now entering its first plateau of maturity, which makes it a terrific Champagne for drinking now. Hints of apricot, brioche, lemon confit, honey, hazelnut, baked apple tart and spice give the 2002 striking layers of nuance. Rich and generous, the 2002 show plenty of the natural opulence of the year and yet retains terrific freshness as well. As always, Cristal is a blend of Pinot from Ay, Verzenay, Verzy and Beaumont sur Vesle, and Chardonnay from Mesnil, Cramant and Oger. Dosage is 9 grams per liter. This is the original 2010 disgorgement. What a wine. (Drink between 2019-2039)

2005 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. VM 94. Bright yellow-gold. Heady floral-accented citrus and orchard fruits on the nose, with smoky mineral and floral overtones adding complexity. Velvety and chewy in texture, offering deep, juicy orange and poached pear flavors and suave honey and chamomile nuances. Blends precision with power, finishing with a distinct mineral quality and excellent persistence.

2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. VM 99. The 2008 Cristal is one of the most complete, most dazzling Champagnes I have ever tasted. A stunning wine from any and all perspectives, the 2008 simply has it all. Spherical in construction, with superb persistence. The 2008 takes hold of all the senses and never gives up. One of the many things that makes the 2008 special is a combination of ripe fruit and bright, piercing acidity. Marzipan, lemon confit, dried flowers and orchard fruit all build into the explosive, resonant finish. “We learned from the mistakes of 1996, when we picked more on acid than ripeness, as was the norm in Champagne back then” Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon told me recently. “In 1996, the best fruit turned out to be the last picks, where the fruit was physiologically ripe. Today, we aim to pick all our fruit with that criteria.” (Drink between 2020-2050)

2012 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. VM 98. The 2012 Cristal is another absolutely stellar wine this flight of recent releases. Rich, vinous and beautifully textured, the 2012 has been nothing short of magnificent on the three occasions I have tasted it so far. In the glass, the 2012 is radiant and luscious, yet it possesses remarkable transparency and striking aromatic depth. Light tropical notes develop in the glass, giving the 2012 a real feeling of exotic beauty. The 2012 is the first vintage of Cristal done with 100% organically-farmed fruit, an approach introduced gradually starting with the 2007 that has profoundly changes Cristal, especially in its aromatic breadth. Two thousand twelve is the vintage where endless trials and experiments in farming and winemaking are fully realized. The 2012 is just stunning. It’s as simple as that. Dosage is just over 7 grams per liter, the lowest it has even been for Cristal. (Drink between 2022-2052)

Appetizers.

Oyster with yuzu-kosho. Great.

Duck and monkfish liver. Both great.

Tofu with uni.

Eggplant. Not my favorite.

Popcorn shrimp tempura. We ordered again it was so good.

1992 J.M. Boillot Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 87. Fat, rich, generous fruit laced with notes of botrytis followed by big, intense flavors that show good breed but not much cut or acid balance and as such, this has become a bit top heavy.

1990 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet.

Sashimi (toro, scallop, red snapper).

Crab Chawanmushi. Lovely.

Chilean Seabass. nice.

Octopus. Way too charred.

Red Snapper (tai).

Albacore.

Bluefin tuna.

Scallop.

Kanpachi.

Clam miso soup. Very nice.

2008 Louis Latour Romanée St. Vivant Les Quatre Journaux. BH 93. A subtle touch of wood sets off a strikingly elegant and very pinot nose interlaced with spice, violet and soft earth notes that can also be found on the complex and youthfully austere flavors that possess really lovely finishing balance and excellent length. This is not especially dense yet it actually is relatively powerful for RSV plus there is a beguiling sense of harmony and completeness here. (Drink starting 2013)

1964 Joseph Drouhin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. BH 91. Sweet, pure, elegant and remarkable spicy with rich, round, moderately full flavors that have not lost their focus or precision and a long, rich, velvety finish that has a bit of acid poking through now. The tannins are not fully resolved and give a certain edgy quality to the flavors though not to the point where the overall balance is seriously compromised. Drink up. Note: another recent bottle was completely oxidized and essentially undrinkable.

Lamb chop.

Toro.

Negi-toro handroll.

Spicy tuna on crispy rice.

King salmon. Ikura. Uni.

Sea eel.

Macha custard. Lovely.

Roasted Tea.

The quality here WAS really good. Service was great, and while they have a big menu everything we had, particularly the sushi was quite good. It’s not quite at the level of the mega high end places — nor does it try to be — but it’s a “real” Japanese place with very solid sushi, way better than the likes of Kantana or Roku. Very enjoyable and quite reasonable for what it is.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Asuka, Sushi, Westwood, Wine

Sauvages Bordeaux

Jun08

Restaurant: Private Chef, David Slatkin

Location: Bel Air

Date: October 15, 2021

Cuisine: American

This particular entry in my series of Friday afternoon wine themed Sauvages lunches was set at…

Member Jeff’s lovely backyard and features food by private chef David Slatkin.

We dined at this lovely table — it would be romantic except this is about a dozen old winos :-).

Getting the wine going.

1808 Henriot Champagne Brut Millésimé Rosé.

Salmon from Jose. Great, but very salty.

Korean Short Rib Taco — sweet but great.

2018 Château Cos d’Estournel Blanc. VM 92. The 2018 Cos d’Estournel Blanc is showing nicely in bottle, partly because of the increased proportion of Sémillon in the blend. That lends complexity on the nose, which displays gorgeous honeysuckle and yellow plum aromas, if perhaps more oiliness than I found from bottle. The palate has tightened up a little, feeling less rounded than before, with intense orange pith, apricot and tangy marmalade toward the finish. A lovely Cos d’Estournel Blanc that I am intrigued to see age in bottle. (Drink between 2021-2032)

2019 Château Brane-Cantenac Blanc. 90 points.

Miso Potsticker — a bit salty.

Mango and burata toast.

BBQ pork belly.

2000 Château Angélus. VM 92. The 2000 Angélus (which, incidentally, was the first vintage where the bottle was embossed with the château name) is one that I have tasted many times, though not recently. Showing minor degradation at its rim, it displays a core with a healthy deep hue. The bouquet is concentrated and intense, plenty of red fruit mingling with melted tar and leather, and perhaps a little more gourmand/animally than I was expecting. The palate is medium-bodied with a slight bitterness on the entry, and delivers good weight and girth, though compared to recent vintages it is patently clear that there is not the same clarity or tension. Quite ferrous, especially with aeration. (Drink between 2021-2032)

2000 Château La Mission Haut-Brion. VM 97. The 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. At age 21, it has retained its youthful nose of vivid black cherries, wild strawberry and iodine, and shows less of the black olive tapenade element that I noticed in its youth. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins that belie that backbone of this La Mission. Beautifully balanced and quite peppery, with fine salinity, it is less sauvage than many other millennial Bordeaux, leading to a succulent, sensual finish. This is only just beginning to show what it is capable of. 13.4% alcohol. Tasted at the château with Jean-Philippe Delmas. (Drink between 2022-2050)

2000 Château Magrez Fombrauge. VM 88-90. Saturated ruby. Musky aromas of black raspberry, violet, game and burning tobacco. Intensely flavored, firmly structured and tightly wound, but seems a bit dried by the extraction. Seems rather tough today and not showing its personality. But undeniably concentrated. Finishes with somewhat gritty tannins.

Fish with cous cous and lobster.

1989 Château La Conseillante. VM 97. The 1989 La Conseillante is one of the top performers in Pomerol and arguably now one of the best values. This bottle confirms that exuberance and joie-de-vivre on the nose, displaying the telltale crushed violets in bloom, with precious but controlled red and black fruit underneath. The palate is sumptuous from the start, presenting cashmere tannin and perhaps a little more glycerine in this bottle. The bravura finish leaves you grinning from ear to ear. Stunning, and it will remain on its plateau for many years. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at Hatched in London. (Drink between 2019-2040)

1989 Château Montrose. VM 98. The 1989 Montrose is a magnificent wine and this represents one of the best bottles I have encountered – one that was purchased on release and not moved from Berry Brothers’ cellar since. I have encountered perfect bottles of the 1989, and this flirts with that magic figure. It is blessed with a captivating bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, sous-bois and black truffle, the veins of blue fruit just toned down a little compared to previous bottles. The palate is supremely well balanced with those filigreed tannins that in some ways are atypical of Montrose. It delivers silky-smooth texture and an intense finish that glides across the senses. I cannot give a perfect score on this occasion, but without question, this is one of the great Montrose releases. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at Hatched in London. (Drink between 2019-2050)

1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron. VM 95. The 1989 Pichon-Baron repeats its performance from the vertical tasting in May 2018. It storms from the glass, bearing copious blackberry, cedar and perhaps a little more mint than I noticed on the previous bottle. There is so much youthful zeal to this harmonious, refined Pauillac that you would barely guess it is 30 years old. Long and tender with a graphite-infused finish, this bottle might be even better than the ex-château example. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at Hatched in London. (Drink between 2019-2038)

Duck confit with egg.

1996 Château Lafite Rothschild. VM 97+. The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is consistent with the bottle shown at the Hong Kong vertical. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a pencil box of graphite. The adjective I use whilst writing this note is that the aromas are “cool”. Perhaps given its provenance, this is one of the most backward bottles of 1996 that I have tasted. There are those fine but rigid tannins that lend this Lafite such beguiling symmetry, copious cedar and graphite with vein of brine and oyster shell. I love the precision of this wine and the sappiness on the finish. At the moment, maybe more impressive than enjoyable, so if you can, cellar it for another 5 to 8 years. Tasted at the Lafite-Rothschild 150th anniversary dinner at the estate. (Drink between 2025-2055)

From my cellar: 1996 Château Haut-Brion. JG 94. The 1996 Haut Brion is less hermetically sealed than the 1998, and is beginning to hint a bit at its secondary layers of aromatic complexity, though it still remains a very young wine. The bouquet is deep and classic, as it jumps from the glass in a mélange of black cherries, dark berries, Cuban tobacco, incipient notes of the black truffles to come, and a fine base of Graves earth. I assume that the 1996 saw the same amount of new oak as the 1998, but there is little sign of the wood at the present time. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and very intense, with a quite powerful profile for Haut Brion. The wine is rock solid at the core and very tannic, though the tannins are ripe and well-integrated into the wine. The finish is very, very long and soil-driven, and this will clearly be one of the most powerful vintages of Haut Brion to emerge since the 1959. It will be superb, but one will require plenty of patience. (Drink between 2025-2075)

1986 Château Léoville Las Cases. VM 97+. Saturated dark ruby. Cassis, shoe polish, camphor and rose petal on the nose; this reminded me of a great vintage of Latour. Dense and extremely concentrated; explosive yet totally backward. There nothing playful about this infant claret. Finishes with extraordinary, slow-building persistence. Very serious juice; one of the great Bordeaux of the 1980s. Drink 2010 through 2035.

Lamb ravioli with truffle. Yum!

1990 Château Montrose. VM 95. Full ruby-red. Wild, exotic aromas of crystallized redcurrant, leather, tobacco and minerals; distinctly exotic, even overripe. Then lush, sweet and opulent, with an atypically velvety texture for Montrose. But extremely young and structured, finishing with powerful tannins and great grip and length. Almost California-like in style; in Bordeaux, they’d refer to the fruit expression of this wine as “original,” which is not necessarily high praise. Drink 2008 through 2030.

1990 Château Beausejour (Duffau Lagarrosse). VM 91. Deep ruby to the rim. Extravagant aromas of black fruits, violets, and toffee. Voluptuous and sweet; this has outstanding concentration but with so much baby fat there’s little delineation on the palate. Finishes with a kick of alcohol and substantial ripe tannins. Very dense, but while a flight of other top right-bank wines were sending off fireworks in the glass, this chunky wine sat like a lump of coal.

1982 Château Mouton Rothschild. VM 98. The 1982 Mouton-Rothschild continues to be the extravagant Pauillac that it has always been. This has an irresistible, exotic bouquet of precocious kirsch, hoisin, graphite and blueberry scents that gain intensity in the glass. The palate is a little headier than previous bottles, sensual and almost glossy, presenting a glycerin-rich smorgasbord of dark cherries, black currant, crème de menthe and mint that almost knocks you off your feet. Fabulous. Tasted from an ex-château jeroboam at the Palace of Versailles charity dinner. (Drink between 2019-2040)

Beef.

1995 Grande Maison Monbazillac Cuvée Madame.

1998 Alois Kracher Grande Cuvée TBA #10 Nouvelle Vague. 95 points. The fat and soft fruit of chardonnay are here perfectly allied with the freshness and spice of welschriesling. Caramel and pungent botrytis augment aromas of honey and tropical fruits. In the mouth, this is the most dynamic of any of Kracher’s ’98s, with insistent fruit acid and firm expression of wood allaying its formidable thickness. Flavors of quince and apple jelly, with musky notes from the welschriesling and a chardonnay-typical caramelization of tropical fruits. Mandarin orange and brown spices join the fruit parade in a formidable finish. 2 stars.

Persimon Souflee.

Chocolate Chip Cookies.

Coconut Cream Pie Gelato — Coconut dairy custard base, house-made GF Graham Crackers, and house-made Coconut Caramel — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #coconut #caramel #grahamCrackers #cookies

Apricot Amaro Passionfruit Mango Sorbetto – I like blending compatible fruits together — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #amaro #apricot #passionfruit #mango

Epic cheese plate.

No comment.

Overall, a great lunch with really good food and amazing wines — all of which were drinking in great form. I don’t buy too much Bordeaux anymore, but they are really great when you give them a few years.

After the dinner proper a couple of us hung out on the lovely terrace and sipped our vast array of wines (and munched on the cheese plate).

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Bordeaux, BYOG, Gelato, Jeff Leve, lunch, Sauvages, Wine

Old California at 71Above

Jun04

Restaurant: 71Above [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11]

Location: 633 W 5th St., Los Angeles, CA 90071

Date: October 12, 2021

Cuisine: New American

Rating: Awesome in all ways

71Above is one of my favorite LA restaurants and I’ve been many times. In fact there are 10 previous write ups! Original Chef Vartan Abgaryan has moved on to his own new place, Yours Truly (which the pandemic has sadly done in), and 71Above is now seamlessly helmed by his disciple, Chef Javier Lopez. Today the location plays host to a special old California dinner owner Emil Eyvazoff organized with an equally special menu. This dinner is the spiritual sequel to a much older Old California dinner back in 2015.

Besides being located on the 71st floor (950 feet up!) of the US Bank building, being the highest restaurant west of the Mississippi, it’s owned and operated by my friend Emil Eyvazoff!

On one of these visits, Emil gave me a quick tour of their new “patio” on the 70th floor below where they are serving up Mezzes and drinks.

Gorgeous build out upstairs for the main event.

Look at the crazy view and the crazy fog on this weird spring night.

We set up shop for this evening in the private room.

Just a few glasses at the ready.

Our special menu.

The wine list.

Bread and butter.

1984 Mayacamas Vineyards Chardonnay.

1985 Kalin Cellars Chardonnay Cuvée L. JG 93+. The Cuvée L chardonnay hails from a warmer section of Long Vineyard in Dry Creek Valley, where the sun in principally of the afternoon variety, and like the cooler section where the “Cuvée LD” comes from, this is planted with Wente clones. The 1985 Cuvée L is a lovely bottle, with a slightly more fruit-driven personality from the predominance of afternoon sun in this section of the vineyard. The bouquet delivers a fine blend of fresh apricot, baked peaches, a nice touch of soil, a bit of citrus zest and a topnote of toasted walnut. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and seamless, with a lovely core, a very refined personality, great balance and a very long, refined finish. This is more elegant than the 1986 Cuvée LD served alongside of it (differences in vintage character?), but the 1986 Cuvée LD is the slightly more complex of the two wines today. (Drink between 2016-2035)

1985 Kistler Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard.

Yellowfin Crudo. Mango, avocado, passionfruit, daikon, cucumber, habanero, Thai basil. Bright and full of flavor.

1987 Hanzell Chardonnay.

1989 Mayacamas Vineyards Chardonnay. 92 points.

1985 Kalin Cellars Chardonnay.

Charred Avocado. Sungold Tomatoes, uni, trout roe, za’atar, lime, mints. 71Above excels at this sort of unusual combo. Totally worked.

1961 Hallcrest Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Estate. 91 points.

1966 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon California Mountain.

Crispy Octopus. Shishito, almond, sprouting cauliflower, polenta, meyer lemon gastrique.

1968 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve. VM 98. Medium-deep red with a greenish-amber rim. Highly complex aromas of raspberry, cherry, mocha, dark chocolate, celery seed and balsamic cedar, with a hint of volatile acidity contributing personality and lift. This legendary wine still boasts bulletproof fruit and a compellingly juicy texture, with a sexy hint of truffle adding interest with air. A wine of great class and balance, finishing subtle, fresh, firm and very long, with sweet, fine-grained tannins. André Tchelistcheff called 1968 his greatest vintage and this wine is still going strong a half century later, with no end in sight. Its balance of sweetness and acidity is stunning. This wine was full-bodied in the early going, in contrast to the initially austere ’69, according to current winemaker Trevor Durling. (12.5% alcohol) (Drink between 2019-2038)

1973 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Special Reserve Alexander Valley. 88 points.

1974 Beaulieu Vineyard Red Blend.

Cavatelli. Poblano Mascarpone, corn espuma, ramps, pepita breadcrumbs, squash. Awesome.

1974 Charles Krug Winery (Peter Mondavi Family) Cabernet Sauvignon. 92 points.

1974 Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. JG 94. The 1974 cabernet from Merry Edwards’ first vintage at the helm at Mount Eden is drinking beautifully out of magnum today, and though it is a bit more powerful in personality than the 1973, it is still a superb example of the vintage. The bouquet is deep, complex and now wide open, offering up scents of cassis, pomegranate, a touch of mint, cigar ash, chipotle peppers, dark soil tones, a touch of spice (vaguely reminiscent of nutmeg) and cedary wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully balanced, with a rock solid core of fruit, fine focus and grip, tangy acids and a long, complex, still gently tannic finish. This is a beautiful wine with decades and decades of life still ahead of it (particularly in magnum). (Drink between 2016-2050)

1973 Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. VM 96. The heady, full-bodied style was unmistakably Napa Valley. The 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon from Mt. Eden was equally brilliant. It was perhaps a touch richer, deeper and more powerful than the Sterling, but what stood out most was the wine’s intense, brooding personality.

1978 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve. JG 86. Of all of the great cabernet producers of this era, Beaulieu Vineyards was probably one of the few wineries that did not really capture all of the potential of the vintage. I have been drinking this 1978 since the mid-1980s and while many bottles were quite tasty back in the day, I have never hit a truly exceptional example. Back in this era, I have always found that BV was more successful in the vintages of 1970, 1971, 1973, 1975, 1976 and 1980 than they were in the more famous years of 1978 and 1974. The only caveat one needs to mention about the great wines that Andre Tchelistcheff fashioned at BV in the decade of the 1970s is that their style has not proven to be quite as ageworthy as many of their contemporaries, and most of these beautiful wines are now in varying stages of decline. This most recent bottle of the ’78 Georges de Latour was okay, but starting to get fairly oxidative and was a bit past its best, offering up scents of black cherries, plums, chocolate, a nice touch of Rutherford dust and coconutty new oak underneath the touch of cookie dough-like maderization. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and plush on the attack, with a solid core and still a touch of backend tannin on the long and moderately oxidative finish. The oxidation here is not yet so bad that the wine is undrinkable, but it is ever present on both the nose and palate and detracts a tad from the enjoyment of the wine. (Drink between 2016-2025)

1982 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain. JG 92+. It had been at least a dozen years since I last tasted the 1982 Dunn Howell Mountain, and the wine remains still a tad young for primetime drinking, but it is getting closer to its apogee and has been progressing very nicely in the right direction over the last decade. The wine has dropped most of what was a fairly formidable wall of tannin while retaining its substantial core of brambly mountain fruit. The bouquet is quite complex and is now blossoming very well, as it offers up a complex mélange of black raspberry, red currant, stony minerality, woodsmoke, gentle notes of fresh sage and a bit of petroleum jelly in the upper register. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and quite soil-driven, with a lovely base of minerality, still a touch of tannin to resolve and a long, complex finish with fine grip but with a slight edge of austerity. This is a very good bottle that may even move up a bit in score as it fully blossoms. If the wine eventually loses the slight edge of austerity it currently displays on the backend, then my score will seem conservative. But a fine bottle in any case. (Drink between 2009-2035)

From my cellar: 1984 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain. VM 88. Healthy full red. More reticent on the nose than the ’83, showing a touch of cardboard and an earthy quality, if not an obvious TCA smell, along with its cherry, redcurrant, plum and earth aromas. A step up in texture from the ’83, but less juicy in the middle palate and even drier on the finish. This doesn’t have the personality of the ’83 and it turned drier with aeration. (I’ve had better bottles of the ’84 in the past, although I hadn’t sampled this vintage in at least five years.) (13% alcohol) (Drink between 2018-2024)

1986 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve. 89 points.

1986 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Signature. 89 points.

Grilled Ribeye. Charred Broccolini, crispy shallot, date puree, jus.
With the jus.

Cheese Plate. Julianna, 1655 Gruyere, Ameribella, Seasonal Accompaniments.

This is a signature Sweet Milk flavor — Italian Lemon Cookie Meringue Pie — Limoncello Zabaione base with lemon cookie flavor mixed with Italian Lemon Creme Cookies and Sicilian Candied Lemon and topped with house-made toasted Meringue — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato) — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #lemon #LemonCookie #cookie #Sorento #Limoncello #Meringue #LemonMeringuePie

The extensive wine lineup.
And the gang.

Heading down!

Overall, 71Above is just a seriously well conceived and executed one-of-a-kind restaurant. Really, it’s more like a NY, Singapore, or Tokyo kind of concept. First of all, the view is just awesome. I can’t wait to come back on a really clear day. Particularly once they begin brunch service, a nice winter day will offer an observation deck like panorama.

But then Emil and crew built out such a lovely space to capture the drama. It’s modern, but welcoming. Not too loud, you can hear the conversation and the music both. And from when you enter off the double elevator ascent it folds from one experience to another: lounge, dining room, more intimate corridors, chef table, quiet and romantic view areas in the back, and a series of two adjustable private dining rooms. The attention to architectural detail is amazing.

Today’s dinner excelled on all counts. Service, food, company, and of course the wines. I’m not normally a California wine guy, but these older wines are much softer, nicer, and more Bordeaux-like.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: 71above, BYOG, California Cabernet, DTLA, Emil Eyvazoff, Foodie Club, Gelato, Wine

Mucho Matu

May31

Restaurant: Matu

Location: 239 S Beverly Dr Suite 100, Beverly Hills, CA 90212. (424) 317-5031

Date: October 5, 2021 & August 9, 2022

Cuisine: Wagyu Steakhouse

Rating: Tasty and share-plates format an upgrade over steakhouse

My 2021 Matu visit was one of the first “new” (aka post lockdown) restaurants I’ve tried since the “before days.” We returned about 10 months later in 2022.
They describe themselves as a “different take on what a steak restaurant can be” which is pretty fair.

It’s located in the heart of Beverly Hills, on Beverly.

The buildout is very contemporary. Neither large nor small inside. A lot of brick.

The menu.

We started by getting the “Wagyu Dinner”, the specifics of which varies by day. Of course then we supplemented by adding about double that amount of extra al a carte dishes.

Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Cumières.

1989 Château Lynch-Bages. VM 96. The 1989 Lynch-Bages is one of Jean-Michel Cazes’s triumphs. At three decades, it shows absolutely no signs of slowing down. Blackberry and cedar soar from the glass just as they did from the bottle last year, and touches of graphite develop, all beautifully defined and focused. As I’ve proclaimed before, there is such energy and vigor here! The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, minty opening. The cedar element is a little stronger than the previous bottles that I have tasted, yet there is still that symmetry and focus. This particular bottle shows a touch more development on the finish compared to others encountered over the years, with great structure and grip, notes of tobacco and just a hint of morels surfacing on the aftertaste. A remarkable Lynch-Bages that is at its peak. As an aside, Jean-Michel Cazes mentioned that there are few bottles of the 1989 remaining in their reserves. A break-in during the 1990s saw robbers of good taste steal much of their stock. Tasted from an ex-cellar bottle at the château. (Drink between 2019-2040)

From my cellar: 1996 Château Lynch-Bages. VM 91+. Dark ruby-red with a hint of garnet. Cabernet sauvignon-typical aromas of blackcurrant, violet, tobacco, dried herbs and minerals, complicated by a touch of smoky oak. In a distinctly firm, structured style, but with juicy acidity intensifying the dark berry and mineral flavors. Building flesh and sweetness on the back half counterbalances the wine’s firm spine, spreading out nicely on the lingering finish. Though currently a little clenched and austere, this wine offers excellent precision and wonderful balance.

1989 Château La Fleur de Gay. JG 93+. Out of the blocks the 1989 La Fleur de Gay was one of the most opulent and ostentatious wines to be found in the vintage, but a solid decade in the bottle has allowed the wine’s constituent components to be better heard through the blaze of fruit. In fact, the fruit bomb this wine was in its youth has been replaced now by a wine of impressive depth and complexity, with a reticence that augurs very well for the serious longevity of this vintage. The nose offers up a complex melange of dark berries, eucalyptus, coffee, strong herb tones and nutty, vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is medium-full, deep and tightly-knit, with a rock solid core of fruit, impressive intensity, and a very long and moderately tannic finish. The tannins here are very well-integrated into the body of the wine, making it drinkable now, but it is still so primary that I would strongly suggest burying it in a cool corner of the cellar for another half dozen years or so. (Drink between 2007-2035)

2008 Giuseppe Quintarelli Cabernet Alzero. 95 points. This wine is a blend of 20% Merlot with the 80% (split evenly) of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. This wine is produced in the same manner as Amarone, in the appassimento style. The wine is then aged in French barrels for three years, then racked into Slavonian oak barrels for four more years. In the glass this wine is deep with a stunning Tyrian purple hue. Aromas show amazing complexity with notes of chocolate, bruised mint, tobacco, spice cake, plum, candied fruits, balsamic and hints of floral pastilles. The wine is smooth and velvety across the palate and the acidity keeps it from being overweight. The high level ABV is nicely tucked in and not a burner. All the flavors come with intensity and linger through the extremely long and unforgettable finish. Absolutely stunning and unique.

NOTE: this was the bottle that a table neighbor gave us for free at Miyagi.

Beef broth made from simmering Wagyu bones for 24 hours. This was the first course of the “dinner.”

Braised Beef Croquetas served over celeriac puree. Sort of like a fried meatball?

Fazzoletti (fresh pasta from UOVO) with braised beef ragu and parmigiano. Very soft.

Hand-cut Tartare Piedmonte style – parmigiano and lemon.

Baby Iceberg lettuce with “Japanese” Caesar dressing and steak cooked on the plancha. I guess this is supposed to be a “wedge and steak” or something.

The “full” version of the caesar.

Maitake Mushrooms with butter and thume cooked over the wood fire. Very good.

Beef tallow french fries with parsley.

8-hour braised beef cheek over celeriac puree. The return of the celeraic puree!

I think this was the last course of the “wagyu dinner.” I can’t remember for sure. The rest was probably al a carte. We rolled backward a bit in menu progression.

Lobster Tails cooked over the wood fire with yuzu-kosho garlic butter.

Ribeye cooked over the wood fire.

Picanha. Lots of flavor.

Baby cauliflower (caultini) with garlic, red pepper flakes and fonduta. Awesome.

Hand-cut Tartare with a Japanese accent (vaguely like the Korean/Japanese type).

Tenderloin Carpaccio with parmigiano, arugula, and lemon.

Flourless chocolate cake with sea salt.

Arturo’s Panna Cotta with macerated strawberries. Scrumptious.

ARTURO’S PANNA COTTA, CAFÉ CON LECHE.

Matu was interesting. First of all, we had a great time, the service was great, and the food overall pretty delicious. Basically, they have many of the classic items from a steak house menu, but they have altered the style and format a bit. Fundamentally gone is the (annoying) steak house format of each person ordering a plain steak and adding a bunch of communal sides. Instead we have more of an adaption of the modern share plates formula — this I like much better and we struggle at steak houses to do this even when it’s not inherently in their nature. Secondly, they have focused the meat a bit more on wagyu — and this is subtle because it’s not the really decadent “real” Japanese wagyu, but a grass fed New Zealand variant. It’s good meat, full of taste, and more suited to western steak style, but just isn’t the same thing as “Kobe Beef” or “A5.” Totally different beast. hehe.

So overall I thought this was a great place. But being so beef focused, and with a pretty small menu, most of which is basically beef tartare and steaks, this doesn’t feel like a place one would repeat too often — particularly given that we ordered basically everything both times. You have to be down for the cow fest. But that’s fine and it certainly pairs well with a wide variety of red wines.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or for epic Foodie Club meals, here.

More awesome wine from the 2022 dinner:

The 1983 Margaux was one of the best Bordeaux’s I’ve had in years. Absolutely perfect.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Foodie Club, Matu, Steak, Steak House, steakhouse, Wagyū, Wine

Kato West Final Act

May24

Restaurant: Kato [1, 2, 3]

Location: 11925 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025. (424) 535-3041

Date: October 1, 2021

Cuisine: Omakase Asian

Rating: Really interesting and different

It’s hard to describe Kato. Located in one of the ubiquitous Santa Monica Blvd mini-malls it serves a sort of modern Asian omakase/kaiseki. It won a Michelin star recently and at the 2021-22 junction moved downtown. Now this last bit I’m bummed about as I loved having it on the westside. But their audience is predominantly young hip Asian couples who mostly live in the SGV. Sigh.

Given what was in the fall of 2021 an imminent move much further, Erick and I went twice to collect the tasty memory data from the late period at this westside location. This is the final report (before heading downtown to try the new spot).

Fit in there with the Mexican places, the cheap sushi, the massage joints.

The decor is minimalist but attractive. The crowd is young and predominantly Asian.

The menu tonight.

2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas-François Billecart. VM 96. The 2002 Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart is outrageously beautiful. The ripeness of the Chardonnay is front and center in a Champagne that delivers the goods, big-time. An infusion of apricot, orange peel, crème brûlée, chamomile, hazelnut and honey give the 2002 its racy, exotic personality. I enjoy it most with bottle age, but the 2002 is undeniably beautiful right now. The 2002 is a stunning NFB. The blend is 60% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims and the Vallée de la Marne and 40% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, done partially in oak (20%). Dosage is 4 grams per liter. (Drink between 2020-2030)

From my cellar: 2002 Bruno Paillard Champagne Nec Plus Ultra. JG 97. The newest vintage of Bruno Paillard’s N.P.U. is utterly brilliant and a glorious example of the magical vintage of 2002. The bouquet soars from the glass in a very refined blend of apple, white peach, stony minerality, hazelnut, fresh-baked bread and a lovely touch of orange peel in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and displays marvelous mid-palate depth, with racy acids, very elegant mousse, laser-like focus and a very, very long, complex and simply stunning finish. This wine is young, precise and so beautifully balanced that it is already a joy to dink, though it is clearly built for the long haul and its true apogee is at least a decade down the road! Stunning wine. (Drink between 2017-2075)

2010 Domaine Leflaive Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d’Âne. VM 92. Bright yellow with a green tinge. Very ripe aromas of yellow fruits and nut oils. Broad, sweet and fruity, offering lovely volume without excess weight. Silky-smooth and rich but kept fresh by harmonious acidity (4.6 grams per liter, according to winemaker Remy). Long on the aftertaste. A very good vintage for this bottling.

2010 Jean-Marc Roulot Meursault 1er Cru. Very rare bottle.

Tapioca, brown butter, uni. This dish started out with us wanting to do something with milk and tapioca and eventually led to a savory dish. We also try not to have dairy in the majority of the menu so when we do we get to use it, it’s a treat. We think the uni pairs well with the different textures, temperatures and forms of dairy.

Tuna, 3 cup. The flavors of Thai basil, sweetened soy and sesame oil are so emblematic of Taiwanese cuisine so I can see why 3 cup chicken is so beloved. This version is with pacific big eye tuna that’s lightly cooked so it kind of looks like the chicken in 3 cup chicken.

Kanpachi, cucumber. This is one of the first dishes we were really known for. We wanted to revisit it with our new pantry and style of cooking. We smoke pacific amberjack and serve it with a vinaigrette of charred negi and a cucumber relish as well as a bonito vinegar gelee.

Caviar, geoduck, koji butter. We source caviar through Astrea (our friends Eve and Reisa), their Kaluga hybrid is one of my favorites that I’ve ever tasted. The only inspiration for this dish is the quality of the caviar and the rest of the ingredients serve to highlight it.

Egg custard. Whenever I was sick as a child my mom would steam egg custard with black vinegar. It’s still one of my favorite dishes to this day. This dish is our egg custard, a sauce of kelp and black vinegar, a few different shellfish, Brentwood corn and Aaron’s negi.

Bread!

A spread (for the bread).

Chinese style steamed fish. Every regional cuisine of China and every home has a version of this dish. The most recognizable would be the Cantonese version where a fish is steamed whole and dressed with soy, ginger and scallion to which scalding oil is poured over the top. Our version has loup de mer and we cook each element separately and assemble it to service. The soy is traditionally unadorned but mixes with the fish jus in the steaming vessel. We take sea bream bones and make a tisane and season it with different rice wines and soy sauces to emulate the traditional technique.
Short rib, pear. We’re working on doing a throwback menu to our favorite dishes from 5 years. This dish isn’t Taiwanese or Chinese but it reminds us of eating in Los Angeles and our first year of opening. It’s a dish of short rib cooked with pear then grilled. We serve it with matsutake and some of the pear cooking liquid.

But it was a bit different with some rice.

Yogurt, plum. The only dessert I’ll ever go out specifically for is frozen yogurt. This version is served with a shaved ice made from tisane of lemon verbena that Girl and Dug is growing and emerald plums since it’s stonefruit season.

Boniato yam tapioca, fresh cheese, sable. Here’s our other longest standing dish, our ode to arguably the most popular thing to ever come out of Taiwan, boba milk tea. We make tapioca balls out of an Asian roasting yam, similar to the sweet potato or taro ones you’d have in Taiwan. We make a fresh cheese and foam it and we shave frozen brown butter sable so it gives the feeling of eating shaved ice. We think that the flavors range from milk tea shops to shaved ice stands.

A bigger group this time.

Overall, a very interesting and different meal. Very light, bright flavors and the whole thing tasted great but left one feeling not in the least “bombed out” which is actually kinda nice. Extremely modern too and straight up ready for instagram!

Tonight’s (final) meal was pretty similar to the August one.

Service is great, if a bit fast! Like just over an hour! It’s also, for gluttons like Erick and I, not nearly enough food, so despite ordering all the supplements we have always gone for “second dinner.” But this time we went down the street to Sasaya, a local Izakaya.

Open late into the night with ipad ordering.

Crab rice.

Korean style short rib.

An egg dish.

Grilled eel.

Check out more epic Foodie Club meals, here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Foodie Club, Kato, Sasaya, Second Dinner, Taiwanese Cuisine, Wine

Banquet Style — Flame International

May21

Restaurant: Flame International

Location: 11330 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025. (310) 444-0045

Date: September 30, 2021

Cuisine: Persian

Rating: amusing and vast place, solid food

This was a peculiar dinner. Jeffrey Merihue organized it, set the menu and then was suddenly out of town on the day of so Yarom picked up the organization (such that it was).

I’ve passed by Flame about 1000 times (on Santa Monica Blvd) and even eaten next door at Nanbankan. I’ve long wondered about Flame.

Turns out it’s one of those Persian large scale “event space” restaurants. Probably it’s used for weddings and other similar functions. I forgot to take good pictures of the inside so I have to use some (bad ones) from the web.

It has that Persian “overbuilt” look. Lots of marble and curtains and chandeliers, but really cheap (looking) construction.

Big space though.

And outside they had this HUGE patio/tent which was even odder. Initially they tried to put us here even though we were the only people in the entire restaurant but the problem was that the floor slanted quite considerably so one side of your chair would be about 2 inches lower than the other. We moved inside (took a bit of convincing to get them to do it though).

Hummus. I find Persian style hummus too thin.

Yogurt with cucumber (and some herbs).

Plain yogurt. Cucumber one was much better.

Shirazi Salad. The classic.

Lavash bread.

Roast Eggplant with crispy onions and tahini. Warm and delicious. This stuff was totally crack. I probably ate 1.5 plates of it myself.

A different salad, same basic ingredient except this one had lettuce.

Trout and salmon. Trout was nice and crispy.

Three kinds of rice.

Crispy rice with lamb. I liked this.

Lamb chops and koobideh.

Succulent game bird.

Fessenjoon given reluctantly at the last minute and with no protein — just the sauce. It was on our menu, but despite (or perhaps because?) we were the only guests they seemed in hurry to move us on threw. We had to request this, even though it was on our menu, and then they just brought a minuscule portion of the sauce alone (no chicken). It was tasty though.

Ghormeh Sabzi with nothing in it — just the stew. Same deal as above.

Blood Peach and Ume Sorbetto — Blood Peaches from Avignon with a bit of Joto Umeshu “Ume” (Japanese plum) Sake! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #BloodPeach #Ume #peach #plum #sake

Sweet Milk Signature Flavor — Italian Lemon Cookie Meringue Pie — Limoncello Zabaione base with lemon cookie flavor mixed with Italian Lemon Creme Cookies and Sicilian Candied Lemon and topped with house-made toasted Meringue — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #lemon #LemonCookie #cookie #Sorento #Limoncello #Meringue #LemonMeringuePie

Mint tea.

Food was actually pretty good, and if one wanted to do a cheap banquet with solid Persian food this place might be interesting. Service sucked though and the space was giant but odd. I found it had it’s particular charms.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

We had lots of wines, but I don’t bother to photo them (except for my own) at this kind of casual dinner anymore.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Flame International, Gelato, hedonists, Iranian cuisine, Jeffrey Merrihue, Meat, Persian cuisine, Wine

Post Pandemic Brera

May12

Restaurant: Officine Brera [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 1331 E 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021. (213) 553-8006

Date: September 18, 2021

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Still really good

At the time of this dinner I’m not sure I had been out on a “double date” (dinner with another couple) since before the pandemic. But here we are at downtown’s Officine Brera, a modern “rustic” Italian by the team that brought us Factory Kitchen, including master chef Angelo Auriana. So let’s see how it’s held up through the pandemic. At some point they changed the name to just Brera too. I have no idea why.

The area offers a mess of old brick 40s warehouses and factories which are being lovingly converted, allowing large spaces at reasonable rents (for now).

And inside the gigantic warehouse/factory space has been reconfigured with highly attractive duct work. Who would have thought that grungy 70 year-old factory windows could look so good?

Tonight we actually ate outside, which was perfect given the times.

The current menu. At least it’s not a QR code!

From my cellar: 2018 Azienda Agricola Valentini Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. VM 92. Bright pink. Minerals, fava beans, pomegranate and violet on the bright nose. Then very harmonious in its acid-fruit-tannin profile, with lively balanced acidity nicely extending the flavors similar to the aromas on the long back end. Strikes me as a rather refined, sneakily concentrated Cerasuolo. (Drink between 2019-2025)

BURRATA beets, heirloom baby carrots, roasted summer squash, pea shoots.

HEIRLOOM TOMATO red plum, cucumber, watercress, almonds, tomato coulis.

ZUCCHINI BLOSSOMS tempura batter, cheese filled, spicy mayo.

SOFTSHELL CRAB. pan seared softshell blue crab, saffron-prosecco sauce, cauliflower.

CARPACCIO prime beef sirloin, bone marrow dressing, reggiano crema, celery.

From my cellar: 1999 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco Vecchie Vigne Sorì Paitin Nebbiolo. VM 92. The 1999 Barbaresco Sorì Paitin Vecchie Vigne is dark, powerful and opulent, with more than enough stuffing to age well for the better part of the next decade. Smoke, menthol, tar, black fruit and French oak blossom in the glass as this resonant, exuberant Barbaresco show off its unique, totally compelling personality. The French oak is present, but well balanced at the same time. (Drink between 2014-2022)

SPINACH POTATO GNOCCHI castelmagno fonduta, tuscan kale pesto.

RISOTTO MILANESE saffron-risotto, bone marrow, roasting jus.

PAPPARDELLE wild boar sugo, shaved black melanosporum truffle.

SEA ROBIN. heirloom chrry tomatoes, farro perlato, tuscan kale, celery root broth.

GRILLED LAMB CHOPS charred cauliflower, couscous, almond-raisin gremolata.

The dessert menu.

Tea.

LEMON SEMIFREDDO. meringue, pistachio sponge, pistachio creme anglaise.

TRIPLE-LAYERED CHOCOLATE TART. figs, grapefruit-campari sorbet.

BASQUE CHEESECAKE. berry coulis, fresh berries. Not actually Basque at all, much denser like a regular cheesecake, still good though.

Food. The food at Brera is very good. It’s very Italian, with a fairly non Italian “vibe” to the place and a more modern share plates style, but the actual pastas and risotto itself is quite Italian, if amped up a bit.

Service. Service was great and we were treated like family. Wine service in particular is great.

Atmosphere. I love the big factory look. It’s a little loud, but not as bad as some (Bestia!). Outside on the patio was lovely.

Wines. Great wines (but I brought them). I think they have a good list too. I don’t pay too much attention to lists.

Because we didn’t have ENOUGH dessert, and we were picking up our kids in Westwood, we stopped at S&R which is a classic Persian Ice Cream place.

Crowded as usual, even during the pandemic.

Rose I think.

The classic Saffron and Pistachio on top of Jasmine. I do really like the flavors here but the texture is that very stretchy grainy Persian ice cream texture.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Angelo Auriana, Arts District, Brera, DTLA, Italian cuisine, Officine Brera, Risotto, Wine

Sauvages Brunello at Marino

May08

Restaurant: Marino Ristorante [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

Location: 6001 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 466-8812

Date: September 9, 2021

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Superb

Marino is a favorite haunt for many of my wine groups, including the Sauvages lunch group featured in today’s report. The theme today for Sauvages was Brunello di Montalcino, plus we had intro champs and a flight of Italian whites.

The amazing chef/owner Sal Marino cooks at his original family location, venerable Marino Ristorante on Melrose and continues to whip up his unique blend of amazing modern Italian. And if anything, he’s gotten even better.

Post pandemic they’ve turned the parking lot into a cute patio.

This is the main interior, or at least some of it.

But we were set up in the private room which really is private. It’s totally separate, connected to the main dining room via the kitchen and even has its own bar and bathroom.

Our special menu.

And the wine list.

2013 Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Cumières. VM 92. The 2013 Brut Nature Cumières exudes depth and creaminess. A host of dried pear, licorice, lemon confit, orchard fruit, brioche and spices flesh out in the glass. The Cumières is a blend of equal parts Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay, but it is the weight and texture of the red grapes that gives the wine much of its signature feel. This is another stellar showing from Vincent Laval. Disgorged January, 2016. (Drink between 2017-2025)

2009 Dom Pérignon Champagne. VM 94+. The 2009 Dom Pérignon is open, seductive and radiant, as it has always been. Soft curves, mid-weight structure and tons of plain allure make the 2009 impossible to resist in its youth. This bottle, the best I have tasted so far, offers a distinc citrus and floral-driven profile that adds a good deal of brightness. Above all else, the 2009 is a gorgeous Champagne to drink now and over then next few decades. This is the first time in the house’s history that a vintage was not released sequentially. (Drink between 2018-2049)

Salmon Tartar with caviar.

2014 Marisa Cuomo Costa d’Amalfi Furore Bianco Fiorduva. JG 93. The 2014 Fiorduva from Marisa Cuomo is a beautiful wine that is drinking at its peak today, but shows no signs of slowing down anytime soon. The cépages is thirty percent each of Fenile and Ginestra, coupled with forty percent Ripoli. The wine is barrel-fermented and raised in stainless steel tanks. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a refined blend of pear, tangerine, green olive, salty soil tones and a topnote of orange peel. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied and quite complex, with a fine core of fruit, lovely mineral drive and grip, zesty acids and a long, classy finish. This is a truly lovely wine at its apogee, but still with plenty of life in it. (Drink between 2020-2025)

2016 Grosjean Petite Arvine Valle d’Aosta. VM 92. Straw-green. Bright aromas of white orchard fruit, white flowers, mint, sage and thyme. Enters fresh with green fruit nuances (mostly apple) complicated by building notes of apricot and thyme. Finishes long and suave, hints of banana and riper fruit emerging at the back. (Drink between 2019-2024)

2017 Tiberio Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Fonte Canale. VM 94. Vivid pale straw-yellow. Penetrating, multifaceted nose of white peach, nectarine, minerals, chamomile and jasmine. Conveys an almost saline sense of extract in the mouth, offering steely, harmonious and high-acid flavors of white peach, minerals and anise. Steely and mineral notes linger on the long floral-accented finish. Once again, the magic of the Fonte Canale 80-year-old vines shines through in a year that saw almost seven months without rain in the Casauria subzone (where the Tiberio estate is located); the roots of these old vines dig deep and are always close to the underlying water table. The 2017 Fonte Canale strikes me as more perfumed and more open-knit than usual on the nose (especially compared to the 2016), but more lemony on the palate. (Drink between 2022-2029)

2018 Castello della Sala (Antinori) Umbria Cervaro della Sala. VM 92. The 2018 Cervaro della Sala is a blend of 92% Chardonnay with a splash of Grechetto, showing a rich and alluring bouquet, leading off with a hint of vanilla bean and giving way to peach, a dusting of confectioner’s spice and dried yellow flowers. On the palate, silky textures flesh out across the senses, carrying flavors of ripe apple, apricot and sweet herbs, as minerals and acids mingle toward the close. The finish is long and almost salty, buzzing with energy and making the mouth water for another sip. The balance here is impeccable, as is the use of barrel fermentation to create such textural richness. (Drink between 2020-2028)

Crudo. Tuna and avocado.

2009 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova. VM 93. Vivid red. Multidimensional nose offers captivating aromas of raspberry, sour red cherry, redcurrant, brown sugar, cinnamon and minerals, lifted by a strong note of fresh citrus fruit. Vibrant flavors of red and black fruits, pink peppercorn and sweet spices are wonderfully pure and juicy. This sneakily concentrated yet refined wine shows a rare blend of power and delicacy and finishes extremely long, with very fine-grained tannins and truly mind-blowing purity of small red fruits and violet. Impeccable balance only adds to its star qualities. One of the best young Tenuta Nuovas I have ever tried and it’s also one of the two or three best Brunellos of the vintage.

2010 Castelgiocondo (Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi) Brunello di Montalcino. VM 93. Dark red cherry, smoke, plum, wild flowers and cedar are some of the notes that flesh out in the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino from Castelgiocondo. Ripe, soft and textured on the palate, the 2010 impresses for its silkiness and early approachability. Sweet floral and spiced notes reappear on the finish, adding considerable lift and perfume. This is a lovely showing from Castelgiocondo and the Frescobaldi family. (Drink between 2015-2025)

2010 Lisini Brunello di Montalcino. VM 95+. One of the stand outs of the vintage, Lisini’s 2010 Brunello di Montalcino fleshes out in all directions with gorgeous, expansive richness. The flavors are dark, bold and incisive, yet backed up by notable freshness. A crescendo of incredibly pure dark red and black stone fruits builds on the huge finish. The 2010 is dazzling, but readers will have to be patient. (Drink between 2018-2035)

2010 Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne. VM 95. Giancarlo Pacenti’s 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne is another superb wine. The contours are more modern and the fruit leans towards the darker end of spectrum, yet all the elements are wonderfully in balance. Surprisingly open and expressive for a young Brunello, the 2010 is sure to improve with a little more time in the bottle. All of the Pacenti signatures are in place, though, and the house style is unmistakable. (Drink between 2018-2025)

Tartar di Manzo al Tartufo. Prime Filet Tartar, shaved winter truffle.

2001 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova. VM 93. The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova has a dark and brooding shade of deep garnet. It bursts from the glass with a mature, sweetly-scented bouquet of crushed plums and blueberries complemented by balsamic tones, smoke and worn leather. It takes a turn toward elegance on the palate with ripe, citrus-tinged wild berry fruits and purple inner florals. It seems almost creamy in texture but well-balanced by vibrant acidity. Seamlessly smooth and harmonious, this finishes long with nuances of residual tannins under an air of warming autumnal spice and inner earth tones. The 2001 Tenuta Nuova has peaked, yet well-stored bottles should be in no fear of decline. Sampled from the winery’s cellar. (Drink between 2021-2026)

2001 Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino. VM 88. Good full red. Spicy aromas of plum, red licorice, marzipan and nutty oak. Sweet and pliant, with nicely integrated acids and somewhat unforthcoming flavors of red berries and spices. Could use a bit more clarity and cut. Finishes with slightly drying tannins and a late note of leather. (Distillerie Stock U.S.A., Woodside, NY)

2001 Castelgiocondo (Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Ripe al Convento. VM 90. The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Ripe al Convento is a richly-flavored, full-bodied offering loaded with dark cherries, vanilla, smoke, cola and sweet toasted oak. It may not be the most complex Brunello out there, but it does offer an attractive, easygoing personality, outstanding length and sweet, silky tannins on the finish. (Drink between 2013-2017)

2001 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. VM 94. A deep dark red with orange hues, the 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva makes an impactful statement from start to finish. There are depths of crushed black cherries, plums, strawberries, sweet spices and mentholated herbs which rise up effortlessly from the glass. Further coaxing adds notes of cedar, dusty rose and hints of animal musk. It’s silky in feel yet quickly firms up through a mix of tart red berries, minerals, zesty acids and an unbelievably youthful coating of tannin which mounts toward the close. The 2001 Riserva is still on a steady path to its peak, structured and primary, as it tapers off with a grippy feel under an air of inner florals. Sampled from the winery’s cellar. (Drink between 2022-2034)

Flan di Cavolfiore al Tartufo. Cauliflower flan, truffle sauce, shaved truffle. Great dish!

1999 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. VM 93. Bright, dark red. Flamboyant aromas of red cherry, dark berries, plum, chestnut and game. Sweet in the mouth, with densely packed, superripe flavors of red cherry, smoky plum, licorice and milk chocolate. A concentrated, powerful wine, boasting impressive youthful energy thanks to firm, lively acidity. Finishes very long, but can’t quite match the overall balance and grace of the 2001. Another outstanding vintage in Tuscany, 1999 was very warm but with well-timed rains, and, above all, cooler nights and less heat than the vastly overrated 1997 vintage.

2001 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. VM 96. Showing so youthful and perfumed, the 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva starts out dark and inward yet gains in volume and depth the longer it sits in the glass. Dried black cherries, crushed stone, dusty rose and minty herbs create its dazzling bouquet. It is pure silk, with an amazing density to its dark red fruits, as rich balsamic spice and licorice drench the palate. This is elegant yet poised, with just a hint of sweet tannin, along with a buzz of residual acids and earthy mineral tones that mix with its inner sweetness to create a tense and contrasting feel on the slightly chewy finish. Collectors with the 2001 Riserva in their cellars will be very happy to know that it still has five to ten more years of positive evolution in store for them. Purchased from the Il Poggione cellar and held in professional storage. (Drink between 2021-2030)

2003 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli. VM 95. One of the great surprises of my tasting this year wasn’t a 2005 or 2004 Riserva but rather Il Poggione’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli, which has developed spectacularly since I first reviewed it last year. This awesome, deep Brunello is endowed with gorgeous dark fruit that emerges from the glass with superb richness and power while retaining a traditional sense of structure. There is more than enough fruit to balance the firm tannins that are typical of this hot year. I was blown away by the combination of opulence and classicism present in the 2003 Riserva. If that sounds appealing, believe me it is. The 2003 Riserva is drinking beautifully today and should continue to offer great pleasure for several decades. The estate’s 1975, from a very hot vintage at the time, was in great shape when I last tasted it a few years ago. Readers interested in older vintages will find plenty of notes on our database. Given the soft market for fine wines and the general disdain for 2003s, I would be shocked if savvy readers aren’t able to pick this wine at a favorable price at some point in the near future. (Drink between 2013-2032)

2004 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli. VM 95. The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli has also developed impeccably. Dark, ample and broad, the 2004 is built on a core of serious power. Layers of dark stone fruits, leather, spice and tobacco build into the rich, intense finish. (Drink between 2016-2034)

Maccheroncini con coda e Guanciale. Pasta, oxtail, smoked guanciale, pecorino toscana. Superb smokey “porky” flavor to this pasta and nicely al dente.

1999 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano. VM 96. The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is everything a great wine should be. This is an expansive, spectacularly ripe wine endowed with layers of perfumed dark fruit, sweet tobacco, new leather and spices. A brooding, structured beauty, the wine needs some serious bottle age to show at its best, but it is already pretty stunning. According to Abbruzzese 1999 represents another step up in quality as the estate’s vineyards had begun to acquire some age at this point. Certainly this seems true in the Riserva, but I don’t perceive as marked a difference from previous vintages in the regular Brunello (see below). (Drink between 2009-2021)

2001 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano. VM 93. The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano Riserva was tasted from a half-bottle. The 2001 is seductive, with a rich and alluring display of crushed black cherries, plums, balsamic spices, cocoa and sweet pipe tobacco. It is opulent and velvety-smooth in texture, with extremely ripe dark fruits, sweet herbs and zesty acids keeping them all in check. A subtle tug of tannin lingers, as this closes off to hints of mocha and inner earth tones. You can sense the 2001’s maturity mostly through its fruits, almost Port-like in nature, along with just a hint of dank earth. That said, larger formats may perform even better. Keep in mind that this is a large style of Brunello. Tasted from the importer’s reserve cellar. (Drink between 2021-2026)

From my cellar: 2004 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano. VM 95+. The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is powerful, deeply colored and still carrying a considerable amount of tannic heft for a twelve year old wine. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, tobacco, scorched earth and licorice give the wine much of its distinctive virile personality. The Madonna del Piano is one of the bigger, brawnier 2004s readers will come across. As such, it needs to be served alongside similarly rich, hearty cuisines. (Drink between 2016-2026)

2007 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano. VM 96. The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is another super- finessed wine. Subtle floral notes meld into expressive red berries in a sumptuous Brunello that captures the essence of the vintage. The style is rich and deeply textured, but the 2007, as outstanding as it is, needs at least a few more years in bottle. Once again, finesse rules the day. (Drink between 2017-2027)

2008 Luce della Vite Brunello di Montalcino. VM 91. Luce della Vite’s 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Luce is one of the most powerful wines of the vintage. Mocha, espresso, licorice, smoke, super-ripe black cherries and plums literally jump from the glass. A Brunello seemingly made for Napa Valley Cabernet drinkers, the 2008 has plenty of richness and depth. It is also impeccably made from a technical standpoint, even if it bears little resemblance to the rest of the wines of the appellation. (Drink between 2013-2020)

Agnello. Windrose farms lamb ossobuco.

Orange Old Fashioned Sorbetto — Cold Pressed Orange and Tangerine Juice, Knob Creek Bourbon and Angostura Bitters! Topped with cherries — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Really tastes like an Old Fashioned –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #orange #tangerine #bourbon #KnobCreek #bitters #Angostura

Coconut Cream Pie Gelato — Coconut dairy custard base, house-made GF Graham Crackers, and house-made Coconut Caramel — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #coconut #caramel #grahamCrackers #cookies

My bad notes.

The gang.

The wine.

The small but elite group of ladies at the ladies table.

Another awesome lunch. Food was great, I’ve had more elaborate meals from Sal, but all the dishes today were excellent. Sal’s a fabulous chef when you let him go all out and today’s lunch was very on point. I enjoyed all the dishes and there was a hefty “truffle emphasis.”

Wines were great as well. Brunello is a bit of an “unsung hero” in the world of major Italian reds. Yes it’s generally not as complex as a good Nebbiolo, but it has a combination of fruit and acidity that makes it go exceedingly well with most Italian food.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or experience my gluttonous month-long food trips through Italy.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Brunello, BYOG, Gelato, lunch, Marino, Marino Ristorante, Sal Marino, Sauvages, Wine

N/Naka Again

Apr18

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: September 3, 2021

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

The Foodie Club returned to N/Naka in September (having been last in June).

The busy street corner on National.

The empty interior.
Our table — before we got to it.

Our menu for the night.

1971 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. VM 97. This bottle of 1971 Dom Pérignon, the second that I have tasted, was an original disgorgement and slightly paler than the Cristal 1971 served alongside. It has a devastatingly gorgeous bouquet, intoxicating from the get-go: grilled walnuts, dried honey and even a hint of marmalade, all delivered with exceptional delineation. The palate is beautifully balanced with perfect acidity. There are subtle notes of citrus peel, mandarin, crushed stone and honeysuckle, though these are discrete. It is rather the tension and precision that elevates this magnificent Champagne. Tasted at Christies/Fine Wine Experience 1971 dinner. (Drink between 2021-2030)

1990 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. BH 97. 1990 is one of my favorite vintages ever for this storied cuvée because while the vintage was on the riper side the high yields allowed the fruit to retain a very good level of acidity which made for balanced and ageworthy wines. While I have had the pleasure of tasting the ’90 on a number of occasions since its release, the last time was alongside the 1985 and the 1988, and as admirable as those two vintages are, the 1990 is head and shoulders above them to my taste. The fantastically complex nose is comprised of an abundance of yeast and toast characters that don’t completely dominate the essence of apple, pear, citrus, spice, acacia blossom and discreet orange peel scents. There is equally good depth to the delicious, full-bodied and powerful flavors that possess a lovely sense of vibrancy thanks to the still firm but fine mousse that shapes the delineated, delicious and impeccably well-balanced finale. In my view 1990 is one of the greatest vintages for this wine of the last 25 years and one that is still drinking well. While there is no additional upside development to be hand, neither is there any rush to drink up as this should continue to hold effortlessly for years to come. (Drink starting 2015)

1998 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. BH 94. An elegant but austere wine that is almost as reticent as the ’96 with pure citrus and floral aromas that continue onto the crisp and still very tight medium-bodied flavors that are beautifully precise and impressively delineated on the gorgeously long finish. This is a long way from being ready and I wouldn’t touch a bottle for another 5 to 7 years.

Sakizuke. Aji, Snap Pea, Bell Pepper Gelee.

A welcome drink.

Zensai. Nasui Yasai, Corn Tofu, Oyster Lime, Shishito White Fish Tempura, Unagi Avocado, Fig, Wagyu Nikogori.

Nasui Yasai.

Unagi Avocado.

Corn Tofu.

Shishito White Fish Tempura.

Fig.

Pickles.

Shrimp with caviar.

Modern Zukuri. Roasted Tomatillo, Chili Sauce, Hokkaido Scallop, Finger Lime, Chayote, Turnip, Kohlrabi, Lemon Verbena Oil

Can’t remember, but it was good!

2002 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé. VM 95. Light, bright orange-pink. Heady mineral- and yeast-accented aromas of dried red berries, blood orange, buttered toast and tea rose. Densely packed and expansive on the palate, offering intense raspberry, cherry compote and floral pastille flavors and a smoky overtone that gains strength with aeration. The mineral quality comes back strong on the silky, focused finish, which goes on and on. An outstanding blend of power and finesse. Disgorged September, 2012.

2002 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. BH 96. There is a subtle phenolic character to the secondary-tinged yet super-fresh nose reflects notes of baked bread, yeast, pear, baked apple, spice and a hint of citrus. The bold and full-bodied flavors possess superb complexity while being underpinned by a notably fine but dense mousse, all wrapped in a gorgeously persistent finish. This full-bodied effort is seriously impressive and one that is aging effortlessly though for my taste, it could certainly be enjoyed now. (Drink starting 2020)

Owan. Tai, Eggplant, Green Bean

Sake we bought from them.

Otsukuri. Traditional Sashimi.

Yakimono. Ayu, Duck Liver, Smoked Cherry.

Mushimono. Tomato, Lobster Shinjo, Tomato and Fennel Mochi.

From my cellar: 2011 Etienne Sauzet Chevalier-Montrachet. BH 94. A pure and elegant if very restrained nose reluctantly offers up notes of white flower, lemon zest, wet stone and an herbal tea hint. There is an equally stony character to the beautifully detailed middle weight plus flavors that possess real verve and superb depth on the gorgeously textured and markedly firm finish. This does a slow build from the mid-palate to the explosive and palate staining finish. A Zen wine of considerable understatement that will require all of a decade to arrive at its full potential. (Drink starting 2021)

2013 Etienne Sauzet Montrachet. BH 93-96. This is markedly more restrained with its reserved aromas of spice, white and yellow orchard fruit, acacia blossom and a broad array of citrus nuances. There is seriously impressive richness to the overtly powerful full-bodied flavors that possess an admirable plenitude of dry extract that completely drenches the palate on the driving and hugely long finish. As one might reasonably expect this is presently very, very backward and while this may be fully ready 12 years hence I would not be surprised if it required more like 15. Either way, this has terrific upside development potential. (Drink starting 2025)

Shiizakana. Spaghetti, Abalone, Picked Cod Roe, Truffles. Awesome as always.

Niku. A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Beef, Baby Corn.

Sunomono. Nopales, Golden Kiwi, Cucumber, Aloe, Chia Seeds.

Yuzu juice intermezzo.

They brought us some giant bottle sake.

Shokuji. Nigiri Sushi.

And more sushi, including uni/ikura.

Miso Soup.

Blue crab Hand roll.

Mizumono. Lychee Sorbet, Shiso Lime Granita

Mizumono. Ginger Poached Plum, Lavender Ice Cream, Wasabi Mochi, Honey Crumb, Tuile

Blood Peach and Ume Sorbetto, Chocolate Peanut Cream Gelato, and Caramel Fudge Marshmallow Gelato made by me for @sweetmilkgelato.

Take home gift.

Roasted green tea.

Pretty chocolates.

The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese. N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular. Plus we even did an amazing all foie gras meal here once. The place keeps getting better and better. This is thrice wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. At N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Coming back to N/Naka after the pandemic I thought they were really firing on all cylinders. This was the best meal I’ve had there since the incredible Foie meal. I think her sushi has gone from “okay” to “great” and with regard to other dishes she has toned down a bit of the “theatrics” slightly but really upped the flavor balance and intensity. There weren’t some of the more interactive dishes of years past, like cooking your own item on hot stones, but the cooking was even more on point.

Service is also spectacular, highlighted all the more by the extremely low understaffed standard currently found in LA.

Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

By: agavin
Comments (1)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Champagne, Foodie Club, Gelato, Japanese cuisine, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, Sushi, Wine

Banging Bicyclette

Mar25

Restaurant: Bicyclette

Location: 9575 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90035. (424) 500-9575

Date: August 25, 2021

Cuisine: Modern French Bistro

Rating: Bar-like space, great food

Walter Manzke is a fixture of the LA dining scene and the chef/owner of iconic Republique (which I’ve been to countless times). This dinner was organized by Liz Lee of Sage Society and features epic Burgundies.

So it was exciting when he took over the former Picca and Sotto spaces (much missed) to open a new modern Bistro.

At the time of this visit Bicyclette was just downstairs in the old Sotto space.

It’s bustling. Certainly one of the densest indoor crowds I was in during 2021.

Modern open kitchen.

Full bar.

The menu is small and focused.

Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Extra Brut Les Beguines. VM 95. The NV (2016) Extra-Brut Les Beguines is endowed with all the tension, energy and resonance readers have come to expect from these highly singular Champagnes. Lemon confit, mint, white flowers and crushed rocks all race out of the glass in an explosive, beautifully expressive Champagne that dazzles from the very first taste. In fact, 2016 is a rare vintage where I prefer the Blanc to the Rosé. In 2016, Jérôme Prévost blended in 10-15% reserve wines from 2015 along with drops of still red Meunier. More importantly, the 2016 is a Champagne readers will not want to miss, as it is absolutely compelling. (Drink between 2020-2031)

1988 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut. VM 97. After the lackluster 1990, things get back on track quickly with the 1988 Salon, a wine that is absolutely peaking today. From one of the all-time great vintages in Champagne the 1988 Salon exudes power and explosive intensity, with superb balance and pulsating acidity that gives the wine its drive. A host of candied lemon peel, hazelnut, smoke, licorice and anise overtones meld into the super-expressive finish. Disgorged à la volée, with no dosage. (Drink between 2016-2026)

Soft Egg in the Shell. Smoked Sturgeon, Kaluga Caviar. Versions of this dish are always awesome and this was no exception. Lots of caviar too.

Iced Kushi Oysters. Barrel-aged sauce mignotte.
2005 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 93+. Explosive aromas of soft citrus fruits, white peach, spices and minerals. At once muscular and fine, combining superb spicy power with great purity of fruits and minerals. This very intense young Meursault boasts an element of lift shown by too few 2005s today. Finishes with terrific length and mineral spine; really ricochets around the retronasal passage. This was aged in 40% new oak.

2006 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 91. The 2006 Meursault Les Rougeots has a thrilling bouquet with a ton of reduction, yet somehow there is marvellous delineation and penetration. The palate is powerful, spicy and dense with a waxy mouthfeel and impressive density. It feels tangy in the mouth and yet it does not convey the same detail as the 1999 tasted alongside, on the finish. Still, this is a fine Meursault considering the vintage. Tasted at La Paulée in Beaune. (Drink between 2019-2030)

Preserved Vintage 2015 Sardines. Awesome looking and tasting.

Baguette with Rodolphe le Meunier Normandy Butter. People always joke that this is the best dish at Republique — it is great.

Yellowfin Tuna “Steak” Tartare with potato chips. Very steaky actually.

Caramelized Onion Tarte Tartin. Drake’s Family Farm Goat Cheese. This was DOTN for me. It’s cooked upside down in a (usually cast iron) pan to caramelize the onions. They were perfectly tender and sweet and paired fabulously with the goat cheese.

Mediterranean Black Mussels a la Marinieres. White wine, Strauss creamery butter. Solid Moulles.

French Fries. Tarragon Aioli.

From my cellar: 2001 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques. BH 93. Knockout aromas of wonderfully intense black and red cherry fruit loaded with cassis and a touch of new oak introduce medium-bodied, sweet, harmonious, very expressive and long flavors all underpinned by racy minerality and firm structure. The tannins are prominent but ripe and the density of extract is impressive and this both coats and stains the palate. As it always does, this delivers finesse with real mid-palate punch with near perfect grace. For my taste, I would hold this for another 1 to 3 years but it would be no vinous crime to be drinking this now. Note to be sure to serve this cool as the alcohol becomes noticeable if it becomes a bit too warm. (Drink starting 2013)

2014 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne. VM 94. Healthy medium red Sexy, complex aromas of strawberry, crushed stone and rose petal convey a captivating combe coolness Wonderfully concentrated and bright, combining classic 2014 salty minerality with superb fruit intensity Boasts the kind of restrained generosity of fruit that reminds me of the ’99s in the early going A compelling, saline vin de terroir but not a powerhouse The long, rising finish features very suave tannins (Drink between 2023-2034)

Burgundy Escargots en Croute. Garlic Parsley Butter. Classic. Crispy pastry and lots of butter and garlic. If anything needed more interior.

Bouillabaisse. Rock cod, clams, mussels, prawns. Very nice broth (could have used more) and lots of seafood.

Liberty Farms Duck Breast. Tenerelli Orchards Plums, Baby Beets, Barley. Good, but not as exciting.

2002 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche. VM 94. The 2002 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a very detailed bouquet with ebullient red berry fruit, sous-bois, bay leaf and a very subtle hint of liquorice. This is a very “involving” nose, one that you easily lose yourself within. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, notes of tea leaves, bay leaf and just a splash of balsamic infusing the red fruit. It leads to a nicely grippy, earthy finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent. Tasted at Sarah Marsh MW’s 2002 Red Burgundy tasting. (Drink between 2018-2032)

2002 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. VM 96+. Good deep red-ruby. Superripe aromas of black raspberry, wild blackberry, blueberry syrup, mocha and licorice. Large-scaled, dense and broad, but more broodingly backward today than the Bonnes-Mares. But this stunning wine shows uncanny energy and sappiness in the mouth and great breadth, solidity and lift on the finish, with explosive flavors of blueberry, blackberry, raspberry and menthol.

Beef Short Rib a la Bourguignon. Meaty.

Tarts on the offering at the beginning of the night. Half of a couple of these were still around when we were leaving (and we were the only people left in the restaurant). I asked the server to buy some to take home to my wife. The “curse” of the Republique desserts continued because the staff stole them out from under my nose (taking them home themselves) and I never got my to-go — all gone!
Cheese on the offer too.

Chocolate Tart. Creamy and decadent.

Mint chocolate chip ice cream. Not as good as mine :-).
Fig tart.

Mango sorbetto. Again, not as good as mine.

This was a great night full of great company, food and wines. I thought all the appetizers were really very very good. The mains (like the duck and beef) were good, but not that exciting. The space is fun, but loud and very crowded which is a little worrying with a pandemic raging. I look forward to returning when things are a bit calmer.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (1)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Bicyclette, Burgundy, Liz Lee, Sage Society, Walter Manzke, Wine

No. 1 Charcoal Really Is

Mar09

Restaurant: No. 1 Charcoal BBQ

Location: 112 N Chandler Ave #101, Monterey Park, CA 91754. (626) 281-5288

Date: August 22, 2021 & March 13, 2022

Cuisine: Chinese BBQ Skewers

Rating: Fabulous food — Highly recommended for the adventurous

Yarom and I discovered this Chinese BBQ joint while exploring the area (and eating at a nearby Northern style place).

It’s around the corner from Garvey, not far from the lots of places I’ve frequented.

Inside is amusingly peculiar, the current Chinese BBQ place having clearly taken over a space that was once an 80s or 90s Japanese restaurant, complete with sushi bar and wood paneled tatami private dining rooms. In typical Chinese fashioned they didn’t redecorate. As far as I can tell most of the business in summer of 2021 is takeout.

The magic occurs here in this sloppy looking (but tasty) charcoal grill under the hood.

You can still see the sushi freezers on the bar. Everything is just cluttered with random crap.

We used this private dining room, which while a bit awkward to climb into was very cute and the atmosphere was way better than the messy front room and its constant stream of takeout customers.

The menu.

Western Chinese skewer powder.

Jellishfish — quite good, although it could have been tangier. Notice the “plates” that consist of styrofoam takeout containers ripped in half.

Tofu with century egg — delicious with awesome savory notes.

Cucumbers with slightly peanuty dressing.

House Special Beef — there was a delicious brown MSG sauce (pictured below).

Crack sauce.

Pig ears.

Cold lamb with house special sauce.

Cold sesame noodles.

Lamb “Casserole”. Not bad.

Shredded potato. Great.

Stinky Tofu. Stinky!

Spicy tofu sauce.

Dumplings with 3 ingredients. Typical boiled dumplings.

Spicy Crawfish — great sauce, hard to eat as usual.

Spicy “casserole” (aka Mala hot pot).

Extra spam.

Beef tongue

Lamb skewers. All these skewers had a lovely charcoal flavor and were sizzling hot and delicious. The awesome tablewares continue with some cheap paper plates.

Pork.

House special spare ribs — boney but incredible flavor.

Sausages — a bit sweet and awesome.

BBQ Leek — great.

Beef tendon.

Chicken Feet.

Fish Tofu — a touch sweet and spicy.

Lamb Brisket. Good enough we ordered seconds.

Cabbage with garlic — incredible. Really stunning cabbage dish.

King Oyster Mushrooms.

Enoiki Mushrooms.

Grilled BBQ Squid — a touch fishy but good.

BBQ Garlic!

Ball of Quail.

Reminds me a bit of:

Sliced potatoes.

Garlic with a side of eggplant. Also awesome.

Crispy Chicken Bones. Amazing sauce and crunch.

Mascarpone Coffee Crunch Gelato — A base infused with Mascarpone Cheese then blended with house-made Coffee Crunch — created by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #cheesecake #mascarpone #cheese #coffee #CoffeeCrunch #candy

Grapefruit Aperol Tarragon Sorbetto — Cold pressed Fresh Grapefruit juice from my garden, Aperol and fresh Tarragon! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Unique and bracing — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #grapefruit #aperol #tarragon

Strawberry Jam Gelato — an awesome dairly Strawberry base swirled with Strawberry Jam — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — sugar time! — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #strawberry #jam

Our fun little room.

Our wines for the night.

No. 1 Charcoal is one of those surprising SGV finds that make the drive east so so worth it. Despite the amusingly “casual” (or ad hoc) hole-in-the-wall style of the restaurant and the crappy disposable “serving dishes” the food here was actually incredible. It was just full of flavor. Highly recommended for the adventurous.

A second visit in March of 2022 reconfirmed that this is a darn tasty place with a fun room.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.