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Archive for Niki Nakayama

Fred loves N/Naka

Mar16

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: August 12, 2022

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

The Foodie Club returned to N/Naka (again) with the (brief) return of remote member Fred. This meal is part 1 of a 3 big wine meals in 24 hour extravaganza. Woah!

DSC00808
The busy street corner on National.
1A4A3374-Pano
The empty interior. 1A4A3385
Our table — before we got to it.

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Tonight’s menu.
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Welcome drink. Sake mixed with juices.
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Sakizuke. Hokkaido Scallop, oyster aioli, fermented asparagus gelee, scallop roe “dust”, beets, carrots, caviar, sunchoke chips.
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The sunchoke chip is presented a minute after. I accidentally stuck it on “backward” so as to not maximize the sunflower and leaf motif they intended.
1A4A2910
Zensai.
1A4A2912
Tomato Okra Salad.
1A4A2915
Abalone, uni, tosazu gelee, shiso.
1A4A2916
Unagi, duck liver terrine. This had that PB&J quality that certain foie terrine creations do.
1A4A2919
Watermelon lime “mojito”.
1A4A2920
Shisito, minced wagyu. Very savory.
1A4A2923
Corn, squash, yuzu ponzu, thai basil.
1A4A2924
Homemade tofu, edamame, ginger soy. Very mild.
1A4A2929
Modern Zukuri. Summer Tuna, pickled fennel, yamaimo, uni shoyu.
1A4A2928
Uni shoyu for dipping. The instructions were to take some fish, a bit of pickled fennel and dip it. This was quite good. The Yamaimo yam was a bit slimy.
1A4A2936
Owan. Shiromi, eggplant, junsai, hasu imo, ume. Very mild dashi-type soup.
1A4A2948
Otsukuri. Traditional Sashimi. Ocean trout (looks like salmon), toro, and a white fish.
1A4A2961
Yakimono. Binchotan Roasted Unagi, sudachi butter vinaigrette, yuzu pepper, lotus root “kabayaki.” This was actually quite “spicy” with the hefty amount of yuzu-combined pepper. This gave it an almost green coconut curry-like vibe.
1A4A2969
Mushimono. Kegani, California Box Crab, egg (tamago), sakura mochi rice, dashi ankake.
1A4A2982
Shiizakana. Spaghetti, abalone, pickled cod rod, truffles. The classic N/Naka pasta, double size. Awesome as always, but still small (even doubled).
1A4A2990
Niku. A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Beef, arugula, baby corn, roasted peach, citrus fern, onion crumble. Very melt in your mouth beef.
1A4A2995
Sunomono. Cucumber, grapes, tomato, shiso cucumber ice. Shot of yuzu juice.
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While it tasted like sunomono, the ice gave it a very interesting texture and temperature factor.
1A4A3002
1A4A3007
Shokuji. Traditional Sushi.
1A4A3010
Miso soup.
1A4A3012
Blue Crab Handroll (as bonus to “fill us up”).
1A4A3016
Mizumono. Watermelon Lime Sorbet, compressed watermelon. Very watermelony.
1A4A3024
Peach Panna Cotta, peach sorbet, nata de coco, red beans, shiratama, anmitsu. Had that mild, soft, and sweet thing like a Filipino dessert.
1A4A3027
Hojicha Latte Gelato – Ceremonial Hojicha Roasted Green Tea base, topped with 70% Valrhona and house-made Hazelnut Brittle — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #matcha #Hojicha #GreenTea
1A4A3044
Matcha.
1A4A3041
Passionfruit yellow bean paste “candy“.
1A4A3058
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1A4A3067
Take home blueberry muffin and tea. Muffin was very gooey and mild — not my taste.
1A4A2897
Old Grand Cuvee.
1A4A2955
2000 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets. BH 93. Awesome and bright. This has now peaked and is drinking beautifully with a fully mature nose of honeysuckle, peach, apricot and very subtle spice notes that can also be found on the enveloping flavors that possess a wonderfully seductive mouth feel and ample dry extract that both completely buffers the still firm acid spine and coats the palate on the long, lingering and strikingly perfumed if ever-so-slightly warm finish. One character that Coche seems to consistently be able to achieve is how his wines are at once generous yet retain a fine sense of focus and precision and this wine certainly displays this. Lovely stuff that is perfect now. Tasted thrice with consistent notes. (Drink starting 2016)

agavin: Nice nose even.
1A4A2956
From my cellar: 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets. VM 90. High-pitched, high-toned aromas of peach and minerals. Quite dry following the Rougeots, with less texture and pliancy. This is very closed today (my sample from barrel a year ago was far more accessible and giving), but does not seem to have the depth of the Rougeots. Perhaps a bit rigid. This needs at least a few years in the bottle.

A touch closed and “bitter” at first, but opened up to become lovely.
1A4A2957
1990 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. BH 93. An utterly beguiling nose of smoke, minerals and crushed herbs leads to big, muscular, rich and gorgeously nuanced palate staining flavors that offer huge length and real power plus class and breed to burn. I have had wonderful luck with this wine and while it is now fully mature and, it must be said, no longer what it used to be, it should still continue to drink well for another 5 to 10 years, perhaps even a bit longer.

Amazing!
1A4A2958
1992 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. VM 98. The 1992 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru from Coche-Dury is a brilliant wine – period. It has a refulgent silvery hue that belies its age. The aromatics are perhaps more Puligny-like than Meursault in style: taut at first with subtle melted butter and yellow flower aromas. It is blessed with astonishing delineation and returning to my glass after 90 minutes…wow…popcorn, roasted almond, beeswax, linseed, certainly more Meursault-like in character. The palate is crisp, fresh and tensile at first, with wonderful salinity. This just gets the taste-buds going and there is tangible mineralité. Like the aromatics, it becomes more Meursault-like with aeration, gaining complexity with rondeur, hazelnut and smoke towards the mercurial finish. This is utterly sublime. Two bottles tasted at Tour d’Argent with consistent notes. (Drink between 2018-2035)

Also very fresh and nice.
1A4A2893
2000 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses. VM 90+. Good medium red. Complex, very floral aromas of strawberry, cinnamon and rose petal. Sweet but also juicy and precise, with the strong floral character following through on the palate. A precise, perfumed wine with lovely cut but no shortage of texture. Stylish, flavorful and quite long.
1A4A3038
Some great juice tonight!
1A4A3047
Chef Niki comes out to say hi.

1A4A3054
Fred and his lovely fiancé (now wife) Maria.

The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese. N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular. Plus we even did an amazing all foie gras meal here once. The place keeps getting better and better. This is thrice wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. At N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Coming back to N/Naka after the pandemic I thought they were really firing on all cylinders. This was the best meal I’ve had there since the incredible Foie meal. I think her sushi has gone from “okay” to “great” and with regard to other dishes she has toned down a bit of the “theatrics” slightly but really upped the flavor balance and intensity. There weren’t some of the more interactive dishes of years past, like cooking your own item on hot stones, but the cooking was even more on point.

Service is also spectacular, highlighted all the more by the extremely low understaffed standard currently found in LA.

Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

Related posts:

  1. N/Naka on the Nose
  2. N/Naka Again
  3. N/Naka – Farewell to Foie
  4. N/Naka Reprise
  5. November N/Naka
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, coche, Foodie Club, Fred, Gelato, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, White Burgundy, Wine

N/Naka Again

Apr18

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: September 3, 2021

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

The Foodie Club returned to N/Naka in September (having been last in June).

DSC00808
The busy street corner on National.
1A4A3374-Pano
The empty interior. 1A4A3385
Our table — before we got to it.

1A4A3605
Our menu for the night.
1A4A3394
1971 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. VM 97. This bottle of 1971 Dom Pérignon, the second that I have tasted, was an original disgorgement and slightly paler than the Cristal 1971 served alongside. It has a devastatingly gorgeous bouquet, intoxicating from the get-go: grilled walnuts, dried honey and even a hint of marmalade, all delivered with exceptional delineation. The palate is beautifully balanced with perfect acidity. There are subtle notes of citrus peel, mandarin, crushed stone and honeysuckle, though these are discrete. It is rather the tension and precision that elevates this magnificent Champagne. Tasted at Christies/Fine Wine Experience 1971 dinner. (Drink between 2021-2030)
1A4A3397
1990 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. BH 97. 1990 is one of my favorite vintages ever for this storied cuvée because while the vintage was on the riper side the high yields allowed the fruit to retain a very good level of acidity which made for balanced and ageworthy wines. While I have had the pleasure of tasting the ’90 on a number of occasions since its release, the last time was alongside the 1985 and the 1988, and as admirable as those two vintages are, the 1990 is head and shoulders above them to my taste. The fantastically complex nose is comprised of an abundance of yeast and toast characters that don’t completely dominate the essence of apple, pear, citrus, spice, acacia blossom and discreet orange peel scents. There is equally good depth to the delicious, full-bodied and powerful flavors that possess a lovely sense of vibrancy thanks to the still firm but fine mousse that shapes the delineated, delicious and impeccably well-balanced finale. In my view 1990 is one of the greatest vintages for this wine of the last 25 years and one that is still drinking well. While there is no additional upside development to be hand, neither is there any rush to drink up as this should continue to hold effortlessly for years to come. (Drink starting 2015)
1A4A3393
1998 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. BH 94. An elegant but austere wine that is almost as reticent as the ’96 with pure citrus and floral aromas that continue onto the crisp and still very tight medium-bodied flavors that are beautifully precise and impressively delineated on the gorgeously long finish. This is a long way from being ready and I wouldn’t touch a bottle for another 5 to 7 years.
1A4A3415
Sakizuke. Aji, Snap Pea, Bell Pepper Gelee.
1A4A3424
A welcome drink.
1A4A3436
Zensai. Nasui Yasai, Corn Tofu, Oyster Lime, Shishito White Fish Tempura, Unagi Avocado, Fig, Wagyu Nikogori.
1A4A3440
Nasui Yasai.
1A4A3442
Unagi Avocado.
1A4A3445
Corn Tofu.
1A4A3446
Shishito White Fish Tempura.
1A4A3448
Fig.
1A4A3450
Pickles.
1A4A3454
Shrimp with caviar.
1A4A3456
Modern Zukuri. Roasted Tomatillo, Chili Sauce, Hokkaido Scallop, Finger Lime, Chayote, Turnip, Kohlrabi, Lemon Verbena Oil
1A4A3463
Can’t remember, but it was good!
1A4A3390
2002 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé. VM 95. Light, bright orange-pink. Heady mineral- and yeast-accented aromas of dried red berries, blood orange, buttered toast and tea rose. Densely packed and expansive on the palate, offering intense raspberry, cherry compote and floral pastille flavors and a smoky overtone that gains strength with aeration. The mineral quality comes back strong on the silky, focused finish, which goes on and on. An outstanding blend of power and finesse. Disgorged September, 2012.

1A4A3621
2002 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. BH 96. There is a subtle phenolic character to the secondary-tinged yet super-fresh nose reflects notes of baked bread, yeast, pear, baked apple, spice and a hint of citrus. The bold and full-bodied flavors possess superb complexity while being underpinned by a notably fine but dense mousse, all wrapped in a gorgeously persistent finish. This full-bodied effort is seriously impressive and one that is aging effortlessly though for my taste, it could certainly be enjoyed now. (Drink starting 2020)

1A4A3475
Owan. Tai, Eggplant, Green Bean
1A4A3499
Sake we bought from them.
1A4A3488
Otsukuri. Traditional Sashimi.
1A4A3502
Yakimono. Ayu, Duck Liver, Smoked Cherry.
1A4A3512
Mushimono. Tomato, Lobster Shinjo, Tomato and Fennel Mochi.
1A4A3389
From my cellar: 2011 Etienne Sauzet Chevalier-Montrachet. BH 94. A pure and elegant if very restrained nose reluctantly offers up notes of white flower, lemon zest, wet stone and an herbal tea hint. There is an equally stony character to the beautifully detailed middle weight plus flavors that possess real verve and superb depth on the gorgeously textured and markedly firm finish. This does a slow build from the mid-palate to the explosive and palate staining finish. A Zen wine of considerable understatement that will require all of a decade to arrive at its full potential. (Drink starting 2021)
1A4A3391
2013 Etienne Sauzet Montrachet. BH 93-96. This is markedly more restrained with its reserved aromas of spice, white and yellow orchard fruit, acacia blossom and a broad array of citrus nuances. There is seriously impressive richness to the overtly powerful full-bodied flavors that possess an admirable plenitude of dry extract that completely drenches the palate on the driving and hugely long finish. As one might reasonably expect this is presently very, very backward and while this may be fully ready 12 years hence I would not be surprised if it required more like 15. Either way, this has terrific upside development potential. (Drink starting 2025)
1A4A3523
Shiizakana. Spaghetti, Abalone, Picked Cod Roe, Truffles. Awesome as always.
1A4A3544
Niku. A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Beef, Baby Corn.
1A4A3549
Sunomono. Nopales, Golden Kiwi, Cucumber, Aloe, Chia Seeds.
1A4A3553
Yuzu juice intermezzo.
1A4A3559
They brought us some giant bottle sake.
1A4A3555
Shokuji. Nigiri Sushi.
1A4A3563
And more sushi, including uni/ikura.
1A4A3571
Miso Soup.
1A4A3576
Blue crab Hand roll.
1A4A3577
Mizumono. Lychee Sorbet, Shiso Lime Granita

1A4A3589
Mizumono. Ginger Poached Plum, Lavender Ice Cream, Wasabi Mochi, Honey Crumb, Tuile
1A4A3594-Edit
Blood Peach and Ume Sorbetto, Chocolate Peanut Cream Gelato, and Caramel Fudge Marshmallow Gelato made by me for @sweetmilkgelato.
1A4A3601
Take home gift.
1A4A3604
Roasted green tea.
1A4A3609
Pretty chocolates.
1A4A3618

The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese. N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular. Plus we even did an amazing all foie gras meal here once. The place keeps getting better and better. This is thrice wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. At N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Coming back to N/Naka after the pandemic I thought they were really firing on all cylinders. This was the best meal I’ve had there since the incredible Foie meal. I think her sushi has gone from “okay” to “great” and with regard to other dishes she has toned down a bit of the “theatrics” slightly but really upped the flavor balance and intensity. There weren’t some of the more interactive dishes of years past, like cooking your own item on hot stones, but the cooking was even more on point.

Service is also spectacular, highlighted all the more by the extremely low understaffed standard currently found in LA.

Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

Related posts:

  1. N/Naka on the Nose
  2. November N/Naka
  3. N/Naka Reprise
  4. Knocked out by N/Naka
  5. Nothing like N/Naka
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Champagne, Foodie Club, Gelato, Japanese cuisine, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, Sushi, Wine

N/Naka on the Nose

Oct18

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: June 16, 2021

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

N/Naka served as the host location for the second of our 3 epic June “Fred” dinners, this one being themed around Coche-Dury Les Rougeots.

1A4A8183-Pano
The empty interior. This was actually the first night that N/Naka reopened after the long lockdown closure.

Our table — before we got to it.
1A4A7968
1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. BH 97. A distinctly reticent but elegant nose with a purity of expression that is truly impressive to experience as it’s relatively high-toned and while the yeast comes up with air, it’s relatively muted at presence, combining with intense, precise and superbly detailed and complex flavors that culminate in an explosive and wonderfully long finish. This may very well rival the sublime ’90 in time even if it’s not quite as concentrated. This is still a baby so there is absolutely no rush whatsoever.
1A4A8015
2015 Hubert Lamy Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Cuvée Haute Densité. A rare bird!
1A4A7976
2005 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. BH 94. A strikingly pure nose of white flower and spice aromas complements perfectly the delicious, intense and stony flavors that are wonderfully vibrant and gorgeously detailed on the transparent and equally pure finish that explodes with more minerality. This is beautifully balanced and understated with a Zen-like sense of calm. I very much like this and it’s very Perrières in character. In a word, brilliant. (Drink starting 2013)
1A4A7967
2007 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. VM 94+. Bright pale yellow. Soft citrus fruits and crushed rock on the musky, slightly reduced nose. Rich, perfumed and tightly coiled, with a terrific core of acidity intensifying the orange, floral and mineral flavors. Offers compelling cut and concentration but this infant will require several years of aging. Wonderfully refined Perrieres of grand cru class.
1A4A8012
1993 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. 94 points. Signature coche gunflint, popcorn, dried extract, and smoked yellow fruit on the nose and palate. While the mid-palate did not have lots of substance, the flinty and popcorn-ish palate more than offset that shortfall. With the fresh acidity in the backdrop, the wine stayed energetic and interesting throughout dinner.
1A4A8019
1996 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 94+. Complex, lively aromas of lime, minerals and vanilla. Structured and almost shockingly intense; great material here. A step up from the ’97 in density. Extremely fresh and vibrant. A tactile, mouthfilling wine to drink and to eat. Palate-staining finish. I kept raising my score as I came back for more.
1A4A7965
2000 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. BH 93. A completely different expression than any of the foregoing wines, which is interesting since the vineyard abuts Chevalières. This is classic Meursault in style with round, rich, generous, “warm” fruit and flavors, offering toasted nut and butter aromas plus fresh sliced peach, apricot and apple scents but gorgeously complex, intense, refined and beautifully precise flavors of terrific focus and cut. But it is the superb depth on the finish that really set this apart and this delivers such quality that it is almost a match for the Perrières, a compliment in anyone’s book. Simply beautiful wine that has just now arrived at its apogee though it should be capable of holding here for at least a decade. Tasted several times with consistent notes. (Drink between 2008-2010)
1A4A7972
2008 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 92+. Classic aromas of lemon, lime, minerals, hazelnut and grilled almond; smells rich in dry extract. Then dense and superconcentrated, with terrific inner-mouth energy to the flavors of peach, orange blossom, lemon and crushed stone. Time-capsule Meursault, finishing with superb length. This too should age very well.
1A4A8077
1972 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes!
1A4A8623
1A4A8625
Our menu.
1A4A7988
Starter Tea.
1A4A7979-Edit
Sakizuke. Uni, Cauliflower Puree, Carrot Coconut Ice, Trout Roe, Nori Sable.
1A4A7991
Zensai. Uni, Eggplant Dashi, Kabocha Roll, Oyster Lime, Flounder Hasamiage, Wagyu Beef Roll, Cucumber, Cauliflower, Carrot, Burnt Chickepea and Miso Puree.
1A4A7997
Uni.
1A4A7999
Wagyu Beef Roll.
1A4A8001
Cucumber, Cauliflower, Carrot, Burnt Chickepea and Miso Puree.
1A4A8003
Eggplant Dashi.
1A4A8005
Oyster Lime.
1A4A8009
Kabocha Roll.
1A4A8010
Flounder Hasamiage.

1A4A8037
Modern Zukuri. Japanese Fluke, California Nori, Pistachio.
1A4A8046
Owan. Hope Ranch Mussel, Summer Squash, Citrus Fern.
1A4A8051
Otsukuri. Traditional Sashimi.
1A4A8063
Yakimono. Tasmanian Sea Trout, Artichoke, Preserved Meyer Lemon.
1A4A8071
Mushimono. Tomato, Lobster Shinjo, Tomato and Fennel Mochi.
1A4A8084
Shiizakana. Spaghetti, Abalone, Picked Cod Roe, Truffles.
1A4A8102
Niku. A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Beef, Baby Corn.
1A4A8111-Edit
Sunomono. Nopales, Golden Kiwi, Cucumber, Aloe, Chia Seeds.
1A4A8116
Yuzu juice intermezzo.
1A4A8120
Pickled Ginger.
1A4A8122
Miso soup with shrimp heads.
1A4A8132
Nigiri sushi flight 1.
1A4A8139
Nigiri sushi flight 2.
1A4A8145
Blue crab handroll.
1A4A8151
Mizumono. Lychee Sorbet, Shiso Lime Granita. Super bright and delicious flavors with a really nice textural contrast.
1A4A8157
Mizumono. Peaches, Caramelized Pastry, Lavender Honey Ice-Cream, Hojicha Jelly.
1A4A8164
Petite Fours.
1A4A8170
So pretty!
1A4A8173
Roasted green tea.
1A4A8175
Burnt Basque Cheesecake Gelato — Milk steeped with Tahitian Vanilla Beans and Valencia Orange Peels and then blended with Cream-cheese and Egg Yolks, layered with house made “burnt” Caramel and topped with house-made Caramel Brittle, finished with the torch! — created by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #lemongrass #ginger #CremeBrûlée #basque #cheesecake #caramel #brittle #orange

Matchacchio Latte Gelato — Ceremonial Matcha Green Tea and Sicilian Pistacchio di Bronte DOP gelato base. I was skeptical the first time I made it, but it turned out to be a lovely flavor. And the green is all natural! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #pistacchio #bronte #matcha #GreenTea #Sicily
Vietnamese Hazelnut Coffee Gelato — Cafe du Monde coffee milk with Piedmontese Hazelnut Paste swirled with Sweetened Condensed Milk — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #vietnameseCoffee #coffee #CafeduMonde #SweetenedCondensedMilk #hazelnut

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A little take home snack for the morning.
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Post dinner lethargy.

The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese. N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular (here for the first, here for the second, here for the third). Plus we even did an amazing all foie gras meal here once. The place keeps getting better and better. This is thrice wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. At N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Coming back to N/Naka after the pandemic I thought they were really firing on all cylinders. This was the best meal I’ve had there since the incredible Foie meal. I think her sushi has gone from “okay” to “great” and with regard to other dishes she has toned down a bit of the “theatrics” slightly but really upped the flavor balance and intensity. There weren’t some of the more interactive dishes of years past, like cooking your own item on hot stones, but the cooking was even more on point.

Service is also spectacular, highlighted all the more by the extremely low understaffed standard currently found in LA.

And what can we say about the wines? Awesome labels, awesome wines. All the coches were flawless, although the 93 was my favorite. So good!

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Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

Related posts:

  1. November N/Naka
  2. N/Naka Reprise
  3. Knocked out by N/Naka
  4. N/Naka Birthday
  5. Nothing like N/Naka
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Champagne, Coche Dury, Foodie Club, Gelato, Japanese cuisine, Les Rougeots, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, Sushi, Wine

November N/Naka

Dec04

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: November 3, 2017

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

For some reason I haven’t been to N/Naka in 2-3 years (even though I love it). So when some of my friends invited me I jumped on a return visit to see what the fabulous Chef Niki Nakayama has been up to!
The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese.

 NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé. VM 92. Billecart-Salmon is probably most famous for their excellent bottling of non-vintage Brut Rosé, and the new bottling is another superb wine. The cépages is comprised of forty percent chardonnay, twenty percent pinot meunier and thirty-five percent pinot noir, with eight percent of the pinot noir included as still wine to give this wine its lovely, pale salmon color. The dosage is slightly higher here, but still judicious at nine grams per liter. The bouquet is pure and vibrant, wafting from the glass in a mix of tangerine, almonds, smoke, lovely minerality, wheat toast and dried flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very focused, with a fine core, racy, zesty acids and great cut and grip on the long and beautifully balanced finish.

Saki zuke (a pairing of something common and something unique). Black tiger shrimp, fillo, shrimp tomally sauce, kabocha puree, finger lime.

Pierro brought: 2014 Desiderio Jeio (Bisol) Prosecco Noso2 Extra Brut. Super dry very tasty proscecco, zero dosage.

Zensai (seasonal ingredients presented as an appetizer).

duck with tomato. Crispy ginko nuts on the left. Nice smokey duck.

Branzino with yuzu aioli. A warm “sushi” with the tangy sauce.

okra and green bean terrine goma sauce. One of these traditional Japanese vegetable gels.

ika with natto and wasabi. It’s unusual to find natto (fermented soy beans) in a fancy restaurant.

pickled crab apple. The inside was cored out. Actually a fabulous little apple with a nice crunch and bracing acidity.

Ron brought: 2009 Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet. VM 91+. Medium yellow. Pineapple, grapefruit and crushed stone on the nose. Sweet and fruit-driven; much fresher than the Demoiselles but shows a distinct apricotty ripeness. Concentrated, chewy and seamless but could use more complexity. Will this age?

Holding the jus.

Modern zukuri (modern interpretation of sashimi). Hagatsuo tartare, grape gelee, myoga, fennel,smoked tosazu sauce. Soft and delicate and rich.

From my cellar: 1999 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre. VM 94. Raveneau’s 1999 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre is in a marvelous spot right now. Petrol, smoke, slate, apricot pit and wild flowers are some of the many notes that grace the palate in an utterly vivid, vibrant Chablis endowed with magnificent purity and pedigree. At fifteen years of age, the 1999 Montée de Tonnerre still has a lot to say. What a beautiful wine!

Stuart brought: 2008 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre. BH 94. A more elegant as well as more refined but also much more reserved nose of white flower and salt water aromas is very much in keeping with the equally refined, pure and silky middle weight flavors that possess excellent detail and precision on the textured and seductive finish that displays grand cru level persistence. This is not quite as rich as the Butteaux but it’s finer as the chiseled flavors are flat out gorgeous. In a word, stunning.

Owan (still water). shrimp, mushroom and chestnut suigyoza, renkon, broccolini and dashi.

With the dashi added. Amazing chestnut dumpling!

Otsukuri (traditional sashimi). seasonal fish and oyster. Very nice sashimi.

Pierro brought: 2012 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée Théo. VM 90. Vivid gold-tinged yellow. Bright rose water and honeyed tropical fruits on the nose. Similarly vibrant and fresh in the mouth, with floral and spicy peach flavors. Not especially complex or long but has sneaky concentration and very good balance. I’m not usually a huge fan of the Cuvée Theo wines, but this is everything you could want an entry-level Gewürztraminer to be.

Yakimono (grilled dish). Foie gras, persimmon, buddha’s hand, pickled radish, foie gras ju, shishito pepper powder. This looked better than it tasted. Not that it tasted bad, but somehow the persimmon overshadowed the foie.

mushimono (steaned dish). black cod, uni, matsutake, mitsuba, sea lettuce and ankake dashi.

Larry brought: 2000 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon. VM 92. Saturated ruby-red. More reserved aromas of blackberry, cassis, licorice, minerals, cinders and spices. Juicy and tight, with a varietally accurate raw currant character. Fresh, intense and structured for the year. Finishes very long, with firm tannins and strong spice character. Shiizakana (not bound by tradition, the chef’s choice dish). Spaghettini with abalone, pickled cod roe, truffles. Niki makes really wonderful and unusual pastas. This isn’t for everyone, being very “seafoody” but we all adored it. Fabulous textures too.

Pierro, who has certainly had his share of pasta over the decades loved it too. He reported that this was the first time he’s had pasta with chopsticks (probably about my 400th, but I’m an asian noodle fiend).

Niku (meat). Japan miyazaki wagyu beef a5. The fig was my favorite part — but the meat was great too.

Sunomono. Snow crab, tomato, cucumber, yuzu curd. Pretty strong tomato flavors.

Ron brought: NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée. VM 94. The NV Grande Cuvée is absolutely stellar. This is one of the very best Grande Cuvées I can remember tasting. The flavors are bright, focused and beautifully delineated throughout, all of which make me think the wine will age well for many, many years. Lemon peel, white flowers, crisp pears, smoke and crushed rocks race across the palate in a vibrant, tense Champagne that epitomizes finesse.

From my cellar: Soto Sake. Great super premium junmai daiginjo.

Shokuji/ sushi. Seasonal fish. I didn’t get them all written down. You can see tai (snapper), toro, hamachi/kampachi, Japanese scallop and Japanese uni / ikura for sure.

Sake and ginger.

Blue crab hand-rolls. Because I was still hungry!

Niki (right) and her wife (left) pose with Pierro and Stuart.

Apple sorbet.

Dessert. Date filling rye cream puff, rye ice cream, rye cookie, Pear brulee, apple cider caramel sauce.

Chocolates with orange.

N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular (here for the first, here for the second, here for the third). Plus we even did an amazing all foie gras meal here ounce. The place keeps getting better and better. This is thrice wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. At N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

Related posts:

  1. N/Naka Birthday
  2. Nothing like N/Naka
  3. N/Naka Reprise
  4. N/Naka – Farewell to Foie
  5. Food as Art – N/Naka
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Champagne, Japanese cuisine, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, Sushi, Wine

Nothing like N/Naka

Mar04

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: March 1, 2014

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

For some reason I haven’t been to N/Naka in over a year (even though I love it). So when one of my Burgundy friends invited me we jumped on a return visit to see what the fabulous Chef Niki Nakayama has been up to!


The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese.


Tonight’s rough menu (kitchen notes).


1995 Bruno Paillard Champagne Nec Plus Ultra. IWC 93. Yellow-gold with a steady bead. Deep, smoky, complex bouquet offers caramel apples, poached pear, orange rind and baking spices. Broad and fleshy, with spicy orchard fruit flavors complemented by buttery brioche and creme brulee Rich and chewy but energetic, finishing with a gently tangy citrus peel quality and an echo of toasted bread. There’s an awful lot going on here.

agavin: A lovely mature Champagne.


Crispy potato, sea urchin, caviar, cauliflower puree, gold flakes. Pretty much consumed in one bite. The crispy potato dominated.


The vegetarian version with eggplant and truffle.


Seasonal appetizer plate.


A Santa Barbara spot prawn with a bit of beet. Deliciously sweet.


Tai ceviche with tomato. Even good by my tomato-hater standards.


Ankimo foie with mushroom. She may have pan seared the monkfish liver, not positive, but it sure tasted like foie gras.


Big eye tuna in the shape of a flower (with avocado).


Tempura nori. Yum.


The vegetarian seasonal plate.


English peas and mushrooms.


Pickled sprouts.


Eggplant.


Deep fried tofu rolls.


2002 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses. Parker 96. The flagship 2002 Brut Clos des Goisses is simply stunning in this vintage. Seamless, ripe and beguiling, the 2002 is pure harmony in the glass. Dried pears, apricots, flowers, red berries and spices are some of the many notes that inform this towering, aristocratic wine. At once vertical yet endowed with serious length, the 2002 stands out for its breathtaking balance and overall sense of harmony. Layers of fruit built to the huge, creamy finish. This is a great showing from Philipponnat. The 2002 was disgorged in June 2011.

agavin: I liked the first better, but this was still very nice.


Modern sashimi: Fresh Japanese Scallop, English peas, yuzu foam, ponzu. Everything was perfectly cooked. Those brown ponzu blobs alone were amazing.


Vegetarian version with various root vegetables.


The serving containers are lovely.


Owan “Still Water”: bamboo, seabass, mitsub, dashi broth. This dish had a wonderful Japanese unami flavor.


This vegetarian soup came in a teapot.


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Traditional sashimi: blufin tuna chu toro, halibut, kampachi, kumamoto oyster, lobster. Perfectly fresh and delicious.


A vegetarian version with various fruits and vegetables, plus a tofu.


Yakimono (grilled): Alaskan King Crab with kani miso (crab guts). The crab guts leant a lovely complexity to the sweet crab.


Another gorgeous vessel.


Filled with some kind of egg custard.


From my cellar: 2001 I Clivi Collio Coriziano Clivi Brazan. Parker 92. The 2001 Collio Goriziano Clivi Brazan 140 Months is a rich and sophisticated wine that could stand up to roasted white meat, shellfish or pasta with shaved truffles. This thickly structured white has the density and natural heft to match important dishes. It evolves slowly in the glass to impart defined fruit and spice aromas. The wine shows an absolutely beautiful quality and successfully demonstrates the aging capacity of Friulano (with 15% Malvasia in the case of this wine).

agavin: This was my first time tasting the Clivi, and boy was it unusual. Not oxidized at all, but extremely unusual and herby — like ricola herby. Now, this made it a poor pairing with the food, but with the right stuff, it would be a lovely wine filling an unusual niche.


Mushimono (Steamed): steamed seabass with dashi. Another example of that lovely umani.


Agemono (Fried): cauliflower deep fried with sweet and sour sauce. It’s heated until the sauce bubbles then…


Eaten in this lettuce leaf.


We opened both red Burgundies at once.

From my cellar: 1996 Joseph Drouhin Romanée St. Vivant. Burghound 90. Airy, pure, elegant and extremely expressive as the aromas just float from the glass with rose petal and assorted floral notes. The mineral-infused, racy and finely delineated flavors are nuanced and textured though the backend has a somewhat dry and edgy quality to it that is highlighted by the racy finishing acidity.

agavin: I love this wine (and RSV in general). It was a nice LONG racy acidic finish.


1999 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart. Burghound 90-93. The oak that sat atop the fruit for so long has now almost completely integrated, allowing the relatively fresh aromas of black cherry, violets and earth hints to have center stage. The supple yet detailed middle weight plus flavors are attractively vibrant and restrained while culminating in a moderately austere finish where the mouth coating tannins are still noticeably firm and ever so slightly dry, which may be due to wood tannins. This needs a few years to sort itself out as it seemed unduly awkward. Note: I was surprised to see the slightly dry tannins as it’s not a characteristic of the vintage. The good news is that there is ample extract, which should in the end allow this to age gracefully but all the same.

agavin: also a great wine, with so much stuffing that I saved the last 25% of it for the next day and it was basically unchanged!


Shizakana: homemade seaghettini with abalone, pickled cod roe, burgundy truffles. Niki makes really wonderful and unusual pastas. This isn’t for everyone, being very “seafoody” but we all adored it.


Purple yam ravioli with truffles. My wife inhaled this it was so good.


Niku (meat): Japanese Matsuzaka wagyu beef. Absolutely melted in your mouth.


For the vegetarians: tofu cooked on a banana leaf.


Sunomono: fanny bay oyster, yuzu omoi from Kyoto Japan. Straight up and lovely.


A vegetarian version.


Sake. Super smooth, with lots of anise.


Sushi flights: tai and o-toro.


White asparagus and truffle.


Avocado.


Aji Mackerel and amaebi sweet shrimp.


Mushroom and okra.

Shima Aji and uni.


Vegetable cut rolls.


Buckwheat soba with dashi broth and tempura crumbles. A nice rendition.


We couldn’t resist another round of the pasta, this time a double.


Dessert: chestnut crepe and chocolate pot de creme.


Special green tea.

N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular (here for the first, here for the second, here for the third). Plus we even did an amazing all foie gras meal here ounce. The place keeps getting better and better. This is thrice wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. At N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

Related posts:

  1. N/Naka Reprise
  2. N/Naka Birthday
  3. Food as Art – N/Naka
  4. Knocked out by N/Naka
  5. N/Naka – Farewell to Foie
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Japanese cuisine, Niki Nakayama, Sage Society, Sushi, Wine

N/Naka Birthday

Sep28

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: September 14, 2012

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

I first went to the amazing Omakase only N/Naka last summer. After a bit of a hiatus the Foodie Club returns. Now bear in mind that this lovely restaurant has only a set menu (they offer it in two sizes, plus vegetarian) but the talented young chef Ms. Niki Nakayama has whipped up an entirely different meal (with similar structure) every time we’ve gone!


The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese.

This time around we went with wine pairings. Sommelier Jeffery Stivers just a fantastic job with these and even more so given the difficulties in pairing Japanese flavors with wine. Very little red wine works (good Burgundy with some dishes) and with a small number of people so many courses are hard to pair by bringing bottles.

Our first pairing: French Sparkling Wine, Domaine Rosier ‘Cuvee Jean-Philippe”, Blanquette de Limoux, France  2010.


Saki Zuke (A pairing of something common and something unique) – Fanny Bay Oysters that have been butter poached and are wrapped in a bird’s nest of crispy Maui Onions and is topped with fresh Uni from Santa Barbara, a leaf of baby Red-veined Sorrel and a Flower of Pansy both of which are from Niki’s garden, a dusting of onion powder and sits in on a sauce of spicey Russet Potato and Dashi and a gelee of Sanbaizu (a combination of mirin and dashi).


This is a vegetarian or fish substitute. I’ll indicate these with VS:

On a Bed of Julienned Crispy Bull’s Blood Beets sits Norwegian Smoked Salmon along side of Junsai (water shield), topped with a shochu Crème Fraiche, Chives, a Flower of Pansy, Gold Leaf and a Puree of Roasted Nasu (Baby Japanese Eggplant).


Verdejo, Martinsancho, Rueda, Spain  2010.

Zensai (Main seasonal ingredient presented as an appetizer)


Seared scallop, a Sauce of Yuzu Pepper, Roasted Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes,a chip of Bull’s Blood Beet, Micro-mache.


Maine Lobster on top of Flower and Herb-infused Rice Paper, Sauce of Tamal (head of Amaebi).


Olive Oil Poached Ono from Fiji on a sweep of White Corn Coulis.

A Cucumber roll that is stuffed with Canadian Snow Crab and Unagi (Freshwater eel), Onion Sprouts and topped with a gelee of Sanbaizu. This was amazing, with a light smoky flavor.


Goma Dofu – Sesame and Green Tea Tofu topped with a tie of Green Asparagug and Konbu Dashi.


The no shellfish variant.


Olive Oil Poached Ono from Fiji on a sweep of White Corn Coulis, a Sauce of Yuzu Pepper, Roasted Heirloom Tomatoes, a chip of Bull’s Blood Beet, Micro-mache.


A Daikon Roll of with Hirame (Halibut) and Ponzu.


Tasmanian Sea Trout that is pan-seared along with fresh Lemon.


Pinot Blanc, Dopff and Irion, Alsace, France  2008.


Modern Zakuri (A modern interpretation of sashimi) – Tartare of O-toro of Big Eyed Tuna, White Scallions, topped with Caviar of American White Sturgeon, Uni Butter, Soy Reduction, Chives and Konbu Dashi.


VS: no uni butter.


Roero Arneis, Giovanni Almondo “Bricco del Ciliegie”, Piedmont, Italy  2011.


Lobster Shinjo – A Mousselin of Maine Lobster in a Broth of Momotaro Tomato, Fennel Root and Dashi topped with Fennel Root and Chive.


Once the soup has been added.


VS: Kurodai Suimono – Pan-seared Kurodai (Black Snapper) that is stuffed with Mitsuba and is in a Yuzu Dashi Broth.


My favorite sake: Sake Junmai Ginjo, “Shichida” Tenzen Brewery, Saga, Japan.


In the glass. It tastes like licorice.

Otsukuri (Sashimi) –  Toro of Big Eyed Tuna, Kumomoto Oyster with Ponzu, Live Hirame (Halibut) from Jeju, Korea, Kanpachi (Amberjack Tuna), Tai (Japanese Snapper), fresh sweet shrimp from Santa Barbara, all served with Freshly Grated Wasabi, Ponzu and Niki’s Special Soy Sauce.


Toro of Big Eyed Tuna, Live Hirame (Halibut) from Jeju, Korea, Kanpachi (Amberjack Tuna), Tai (Japanese Snapper), freshly Grated Wasabi and Niki’s Special Soy Sauce.


Muller Thurgau, Kurtatsch Cortaccia, Alto Adige, Italy  2009.

Agemono (Fried dish) – Tempura Pompano along with the Crispy Bones with Multi-colored Peppers, Scallions and a Sauce of Sweet and Sour Dashi, Butter Lettuce Leaves.


The fish is cooked table-side and then wrapped in this lettuce.


To taco-like effect.


Picpoul de Pinet, Domaine de Laurier, Languedoc, France 2010.

Yakimono (Grilled dish) – Hotate Yaki – Live Diver Scallops from Boston grilled in their own Shell with the Roasted Liver, Shiso Leaf, Shiitake Mushroom, Yuzu Zest and Dashi.


VS: On a hot rock sits roasted Nasu (Japanese Eggplant) that has been cored out and filled with Maguro of Big Eyed Tuna, Shiso Leaf and Miso.


Greco di Tufo, Villa Mathilde, Campania, Italy  2010. This is a volcanic white wine (DOCG) from near Mount Vesuvius.


Shiizakana (Not bound by tradition, the Chef’s choice dish) – Spaghettini with Black Abalone from Monterey, Pickled Cod Roe, Shaved Italian Summer Truffles, Garlic, Soy and topped with Daikon Radish Sprouts. An unusual, but truly unworldly pasta.


Someone doesn’t like abalone.


VS: Spaghettini with Mentaiko (Pickled Cod Roe), shaved Italian Summer Truffles, Garlic, Soy and topped with Daikon Radish Sprouts.


Pinot Noir, Ampelos Cellars “Fiddlestix Vineyard”, Santa Rita Hills, CA  2008.


Niku (Meat Course) – American Wagyu from Washington State Rib-cap Steak with a Canele of Russet Potato Mashed, Nanohana (Broccoli Rabe), Roasted Carrot with a Ponzu Demi-jus American Wagyu from Washington State Rib-cap Steak with a Canele of Russet Potato Mashed, Nanohana (Broccoli Rabe), Roasted Carrot with a Ponzu Demi-jus.


VS: Pan-seared Ono from Fiji that sits on a sauce of Yuzu Cream and topped with a fresh Yuzu Foam and paired with Micro Mache, a Chip of Bull’s Blood Beet and fresh Lemon.

Sunomono (Salad)  – On thinly sliced Baby Cucumbers from Nki’s Garden along with a Sweet 100 Cherry Tomato is marinated Hirame (Halibut) with Ponzu.

On the side is: Yuzu Sake, Yuzu Omoi, Yamamoto, Japan.


Sake Suijin, Asabiraki Brewery, Iwate, Japan.


Fresh ginger.


Shokuji One & Two (Rice dish – Sushi) – Tai (Japanese Snapper); O-toro of Big-eyed Tuna.


Wild Aji (Spanish Mackrel); Amaebi (Sweet Raw Shrimp).


VS: for the shrimp, halibut I think.


VS: Yellowtail or similar.


Seared Toro and Fresh Uni (Sea Urchin).


So good it deserves a close up of the Uni.


And the seared toro.

It’s worth noting that this time around, IMHO, the sushi had really improved. The above flight, while small, was sublime.

Soba Noodles served with Freshly Grated Wasabi and Konbu Dashi.


Closeup of the sauce.


Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Delas, Rhone Valley, France  2010.


Dessert – A creme brûlée on the left and a passionfruit hollowed out with added cream and those asian gelatinous dessert cubes.


Close up of the brûlée.


And the passionfruit. This was stunning. I love passionfruit and creamy desserts and this was so good I sucked the desiccated husk.


Artisan Hojita tea.


A special bit of red Italian passito.


And Ice Cream of Dark Chocolate with freshly whipped Cream and Organic Fresh Raspberries (for my father’s birthday).

N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular (here for the first, here for the second, third here, fois gras). The place keeps getting better and better. This is thrice wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. I’ve recently eaten at two Jose Andres set menu restaurants where the menu barely changed in eight months, but at N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Try it!

Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Jeffery Stivers

Related posts:

  1. N/Naka Reprise
  2. Knocked out by N/Naka
  3. Food as Art – N/Naka
  4. N/Naka – Farewell to Foie
  5. Food as Art – Takao
By: agavin
Comments (3)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Dessert, Japanese, Japanese cuisine, Kaiseki, Los Angeles, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, Sushi, Wine

N/Naka – Farewell to Foie

Jul01

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: June 22, 2012

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

It’s been an N/Naka couple of weeks. I was just there three weeks ago for an amazing Omakase. Now the Foodie Club returns for the “Farewell to Foie” dinner. For those of you that live in caves, California is on the verge of banning that most delectable of duck livers due to debatable animal rights issues. Chef Ms. Niki Nakayama has whipped up an entirely foie meal to celebrate the last month of foie!


The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese.


From my cellar: “The Pinson 2008 Chablis Les Clos displays somewhat detached lanolin, resin, and vanilla from barrel, but also generous citrus tinged with chalk dust and white pepper typical for this site. With a sense of substantiality shared with other wines in its collection as well as a silken texture – yet with plenty of energy and saliva-inducement.” This wine is textbook white burgundy and Chardonnay at its best, flowery and rich in a way that new world Chards almost never achieve. But, as I was to observe, Chardonnay makes a really poor pairing with foie gras. The richness of the foie begs for something sweet like a Riesling Spatlese.


Saki Zuke (A pairing of something common and something unique) – Custard of Organic Farm-fresh Jidori Chicken Egg and Hudson Valley Foie Gras topped with Seared Foie Gras on a Bed of Shredded Foie Gras, a Sauce of Balsamic Foie Gras Jus and a Flower of Pansy, Gold Leaf.


“Zensai (Main seasonal ingrediant presented as an appetizer) – Torchon of Hudson Valley Foie Gras served with Seared Unagi (Freshwater Eel), Brûléed Black Mission Figs, Roasted Bing Cherries, a Sweep of Bittersweet Chocolate and a Sauce of Cabernet Sauvignon and Bing Cherries and Gelée of Sanbaizu.”


“Modern Zakuri (A modern interpretation of sashimi) – Hokkaido scallops with Hudson Valley Foie Gras Crumbles, Shaved Zest of Fresh Yuzu, garnished with leaves of Baby Red-veined Sorrel from Niki’s Garden and Sprouts of Daikon and Drops of Ponzu Reduction.”


“Otsukuri (Traditional Sashimi) – Live Hirame (Halibut) from Jeju, Korea, thinly sliced with a Flower of Pansy from Niki’s Garden and a Sauce of Foie Gras Ponzu.” The foie in the ponzu added a lovely touch of richness to this otherwise simple sashimi.


“Palate Cleanser – On the Half Shelll, Kumamoto Oyster with Fresh Uni (Sea Urchiin) from Santa Barbara with Ponzu.”


The 2000 Domaine Ponsot Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru was a spectacular example of grand cru red Burgundy brought by Foodie co-chair EP. Every time I taste a very good burgundy with a little age on it I remember why I love burgs so much. Just spectacular.


“Mushimono (Steamed dish) – Black Abalone from Monterey and Hudson Valley Foie Gras poached in Dashi and served with the Poaching Liquid and Scallions.” This sure is a lot of foie!  The combination was incredible, and the broth even better. Notice that the bowl has a little “spigot” on the right for pouring it out onto a spoon. I spilled some and debated licking it off the table — not kidding.


“Shiizakana (Not bound by tradition, the Chef’s choice dish) – Ravioli stuffed with Diver Scallops from Hokkaido, Japan, Maine Lobster Tail and Hudson Valley Foie Gras with a Sauce of Yuzu Brown Butter.” Absolutely to die for ravioli with a dough much like that of a Har Gow.


“Niku (Meat Course) – Beef Houbayaki – American Wagyu Beef Ribeye Steak topped with Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Scallions on a Sauce of Sweet Red Miso, on a Magnolia Leaf that sits on top of Charcoal.” Rich enough? Wagyu AND foie?


The Magnolia leaf creates a wonderful odor as it smokes too.


For the sushi flights we ordered this ultra premium sake. I’ve had both this semi-sweet version and the same maker’s dry. The semi-sweet is worlds better in my opinion, perhaps the best sake I’ve ever had.

“Palate Cleanser – some marinated fish bit with tomato from Niki’s garden.”


“Shokuji One & Two (Rice dish –Sushi) – Tai (Japanese Snapper), Chu-toro of Big Eye Tuna”


“Aji (Spanish Mackrel), Amaebi (Sweet Shrimp)”


“Seared Toro of Spanish Baby Blue Fin Tuna, Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras topped with a Balsamic Foie Gras Jus Reduction.”


“Shiizakana 2 – Risotto of Unagi (Freshwater Ell) with Unagi Sauce and topped seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras.” Another incredible dish, although just loaded with foie. I love rice with Unagi sauce all by itself and the foie drippings made it 10x better!


“Soba – Buckwheat Noodles in Traditional Soba Broth with Scallions and Jus of Foie Gras.”


“Salmon and seared American Wagyu.” Beef sushi!


“Additional Shokuji/Additional Shokuji/Ochazuke (Rice Dish) – a porridge of .fish, rice, and green tea.” Very mild, pleasant, and settling after all that foie.

“Palate Cleanser – Sorbet of Yuzu”

“Dessert – Crème Brûlée of Black Sesame Seed.” Rich and creamy.

Artisan Hojicha tea.

N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular (here for the first, here for the second, here for the third). But this last was just crazy out of this world. I was actually a little worried before hand that it would be too much foie (like our crazy 27 course truffle dinner), but despite the length (6 hours!), and the insane amount of foie it was actually manageable. And beyond all that, Chef Niki managed to actually enhance every single dish with all that richness. Foie isn’t a typical Japanese ingredient, but it didn’t throw any dish for a loop. Most were extremely memorable and all were fantastic.

Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

Related posts:

  1. N/Naka Reprise
  2. Food as Art – N/Naka
  3. Knocked out by N/Naka
  4. Matsuhisa – The Private Room
  5. Food as Art – Nobu
By: agavin
Comments (4)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Black Abalone, California, Dashi, Foie gras, Foodie Club, Hokkaido, Hudson Valley, Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Japan, Japanese cuisine, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, Omakase, Restaurant

N/Naka Reprise

Jun27

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: May 31, 2012

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

I first went to the amazing Omakase only N/Naka last summer. After a bit of a hiatus the Foodie Club returns. Now bear in mind that this lovely restaurant has only a set menu (they offer it in two sizes, plus vegetarian) but the talented young chef Ms. Niki Nakayama has whipped up an entirely different meal (with similar structure) every time we’ve gone!


The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese.


This unusual Spanish white earn 92 from Parker, “The 2007 Gorvia Blanco was sourced from a single 3 acre vineyard planted exclusively to the indigenous variety Dona Blanca (used in the past mostly for grappa production or as a table grape). Medium straw-colored, it reveals aromas of apple, pear, slate/mineral, citrus, and acacia. Crisp, concentrated, and intense (in the style of top-level unoaked Chablis), in the mouth it is vibrant, complex, and impeccably balanced. It should provide both intellectual and sensual pleasure for another 5-6 years.”


“Saki Zuke (A pairing of something common and something unique) – Goma Dofu – Fresh Tofu of Sesame and Green Tea topped with a Knuckle of Maine Lobster, Uni from Santa Barbara, a Flower of Pansy from Niki’s Garden, Gold Leaf and a Smokey Dashi.”


After the dashi (fish broth) is added. I love these opening dishes of Niki’s as they are intensely subtle and Japanese. There was a very fresh summer feel to it.


“Sakizuke (A pairing of something common and something unique) – Goma Dofu – Sesame and Green Tea Tofu topped with a Tie of Green Asparagus, Leaf of Red-veined Sorrel, Gold Flake and a Flower of Pansy from Niki’s Garden and Dashi.” This is the vegetarian version of the above lobster dish. In general, two or three variants of each dish will be represented. First the “normal” version, then vegetarian, and then sometimes followed by a special diet version.


With the broth.

“White Asparagus Tofu topped with Ikura, Baby White Asparagus, Red-veined Sorrel, a Flower of Pansy from Niki’s Garden, Butter.”


“Zensai (Main seasonal ingrediant presented as an appetizer) – Pan-seared Tasmanian Sea Trout, Roasted Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes, Meyer Lemon with a Green Asparagus Butter, Ponzu Reduction and a Chip of Bull Blood Beet.”


“Zensai (Main seasonal ingrediant presented as an appetizer) – A Roll of Shiitake Mushrooms, Haricot Verts wrapped in Leaves of Kale and served with a Sauce of Sesame Seeds.” Vegetarian substitute for the salmon.


“Modern Zakuri (A modern interpretation of sashimi) – Diver Scallop from Hokkaido, Japan topped with shaved Italian Summer Truffles, Drops of Ponzu Reduction, Fresh Lemon, Dusting of Parmigiano Reggiano and Zest of Yuzu and garnished with Daikon Radish Sprouts and a Flower of Borage from Niki’s Garden.” Hokkaido scallops are divine.


“Modern Zakuri (A modern interpretation of sashimi) – Roasted Bull’s Blood Beets with Roasted Nasu (Baby Japanese Eggplant), Leaves of Cress, Shaved Parmesean Reggiano and a Vinaigrette of Balsamic and Hazelnut.”

The vegetarians get this instead of the scallops, with a drizzled sauce.


“Tartare of O-toro of Baby Spanish Blue Fin Tuna, White Scallions, Caviar of American White Sturgeon, Chives, Soy Reduction and Dashi.”


2007 Montenidoli “Carato” Vernaccia di San Gimignano. The current release is, yes, five years old from the first Vernaccia to be aged in Barrique from a fine selection of free run grape musts, one can taste and feel the Leroy influence here. Deep minerality floated in creamy clouds. Grandiose, wild, and important. Here’s a pic of where this wine comes from. I discovered it last summer while Eating Italy.


“Otsukuri (Sashimi) –  Maguro (Tuna) of Spanish Baby Blue Fin Tuna, Hirame (Live Halibut from Jeju, Korea), Kumamoto Oyster and Ponzu, Kanpachi (Amber Jack) with Freshly Grated Wasabi and Niki’s Special Soy Sauce.”


“Otsukuri (Sashimi) –  Roasted Kabocha Squash, Black Konnyaku, Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes, White Asparagus Tofu, Nanohana.” Vegetarian sub.


Uni instead of oyster for a special diet person.


“Agemono (Deep fried dish) – Fried Pompano along with the Crispy Bones with Multi-colored Peppers, Scallions and a Sauce of Sweet and Sour Dashi, Butter Lettuce Leaves.” The fish is cooked in the thick sweet sauce until the bones grow soft, then wrapped in the lettuce and eaten like a taco.

“Mushimono (Steamed dish) / Agemono (Fried dish) – Chawanmushi – A traditional Egg Custard with Shiitake Mushrooms and Shaved Italian Summer Truffles; Tempura of Yamaimo, Carrot and Shiitake Mushroom with accoupaments of Fresh Lemon and Okanawan Finishing Salt.”


The vegetarians had this custard (pictured here in more clarity) and the carrot/mushroom fritter.


Parker 98! “Unquestionably one of the vintage’s finest wines, Jadot’s 2003 Bonnes Mares bursts with roses, violets, cassis liqueur, and black cherries. Armed with magnificent depth, concentration, and extraction, this full-bodied beauty expands on the palate to reveal oodles of black cherries slathered in chocolate. Its finish, which lasts for a minute, reveals additional layers of jammy fruit as well as loads of sweet, round tannin. Though immensely ripe and low in acidity, this gem has the profundity of fruit and structure for considerable cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2022+.”


“Shiizakana (Not bound by tradition, the Chef’s choice dish) – Spaghettini Vongole ala Niki – Fresh Manila Clams sauteed in a Sauce of Roasted Garlic and Campari Tomato Cream.” A different, but exceptional, take on spaghetti with clam sauce.


“Shiizakana (Not bound by tradition, the Chef’s choice dish) – Spaghettini with Shaved Italian Summer Truffles in a Roasted Garlic Cream Sauce, Daikon Radish Sprouts.” Vegetarian sub.


“Spaghettini with Meintako (Pickled Cod Roe) and Italian Summer Truffles.”


“Niku (Meat Course) – American Natural Angus Beef Rib Eye served along side a canele of Russet Potato and Leek Mashed, Roasted Carrots and a Ponzu Demi-jus.”


“Roasted Vegetable Course– Roasted Loaf of Tofu and Mochi with a Spicy Ponzu Sauce.” Vegetarian sub.


Sake- shichida, sago  japan. This is an ultra-ultra rare sake. It comes in various types. I’ve had the sweeter type before, but this is the dry one. The previous one was one of the best sakes I’ve ever had. This was merely good.


Fresh ginger.


“Shokuji One & Two (Rice dish –Sushi) – Tai (left), O-toro (Fatty Tuna) of Spanish Baby Blue Fin (right).”


” Shokuji One & Two (Rice dish –Sushi) – Baby Cucumber with a Plum Sauce (left); Avocado; Okra, Roasted Nasu (right).”


“Amaebi (Sweet Raw Shrimp, right), Aji (Spanish Mackrel, left).”


“Roasted Shiitake Mushroom (right); Roasted Kabocha Squash (left).”


“Uni (Sea Urchin) from Santa Barbara, Seared Toro (Fatty Tuna).”


A fried something handroll.


“Miso Soup with Head of Amaebi.” It’s traditional to recycle the shrimp head in miso soup. This makes for a more briny oceanic miso.


” Soba – Traditional Buckwheat Noodles in a Vegetarian Broth with Shaved Scallions.”


“Dessert – On a sweep of a Sauce of Dark Caramel sits a Cheesecake of Kabocha Squash rolled in Graham Cracker Crumbles, Whipped Cream, Fresh Organic Fruits of Blueberry, Strawberry and Kiwi; Crème Brulee of Sesame Seeds.” Both were great, particularly the Crème Brulee.


Artisan tea.

N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular (here for the first, here for the second). This third was, if possible, slightly more refined, which was always wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. I’ve recently eaten at two Jose Andres set menu restaurants where the menu barely changed in eight months, but at N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Try it!

Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

Related posts:

  1. Food as Art – N/Naka
  2. Knocked out by N/Naka
  3. Mori Sushi – A Top Contender
  4. Takao Top Omakase
  5. Uh no, Takao again!
By: agavin
Comments (14)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Asparagus, Butter, Foodie Club, Hokkaido, Japanese cuisine, Los Angeles, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, Omakase, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Restaurant, sake, Shiitake, Wine
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