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Banging Bicyclette

Mar25

Location: 9575 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90035. (424) 500-9575

Date: August 25, 2021

Cuisine: Modern French Bistro

Rating: Bar-like space, great food

Walter Manzke is a fixture of the LA dining scene and the chef/owner of iconic Republique (which I’ve been to countless times). This dinner was organized by Liz Lee of Sage Society and features epic Burgundies.

So it was exciting when he took over the former Picca and Sotto spaces (much missed) to open a new modern Bistro.

At the time of this visit Bicyclette was just downstairs in the old Sotto space.

It’s bustling. Certainly one of the densest indoor crowds I was in during 2021.

Modern open kitchen.

Full bar.

The menu is small and focused.

Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Extra Brut Les Beguines. VM 95. The NV (2016) Extra-Brut Les Beguines is endowed with all the tension, energy and resonance readers have come to expect from these highly singular Champagnes. Lemon confit, mint, white flowers and crushed rocks all race out of the glass in an explosive, beautifully expressive Champagne that dazzles from the very first taste. In fact, 2016 is a rare vintage where I prefer the Blanc to the Rosé. In 2016, Jérôme Prévost blended in 10-15% reserve wines from 2015 along with drops of still red Meunier. More importantly, the 2016 is a Champagne readers will not want to miss, as it is absolutely compelling. (Drink between 2020-2031)

1988 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut. VM 97. After the lackluster 1990, things get back on track quickly with the 1988 Salon, a wine that is absolutely peaking today. From one of the all-time great vintages in Champagne the 1988 Salon exudes power and explosive intensity, with superb balance and pulsating acidity that gives the wine its drive. A host of candied lemon peel, hazelnut, smoke, licorice and anise overtones meld into the super-expressive finish. Disgorged à la volée, with no dosage. (Drink between 2016-2026)

Soft Egg in the Shell. Smoked Sturgeon, Kaluga Caviar. Versions of this dish are always awesome and this was no exception. Lots of caviar too.

Iced Kushi Oysters. Barrel-aged sauce mignotte.
2005 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 93+. Explosive aromas of soft citrus fruits, white peach, spices and minerals. At once muscular and fine, combining superb spicy power with great purity of fruits and minerals. This very intense young Meursault boasts an element of lift shown by too few 2005s today. Finishes with terrific length and mineral spine; really ricochets around the retronasal passage. This was aged in 40% new oak.

2006 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 91. The 2006 Meursault Les Rougeots has a thrilling bouquet with a ton of reduction, yet somehow there is marvellous delineation and penetration. The palate is powerful, spicy and dense with a waxy mouthfeel and impressive density. It feels tangy in the mouth and yet it does not convey the same detail as the 1999 tasted alongside, on the finish. Still, this is a fine Meursault considering the vintage. Tasted at La Paulée in Beaune. (Drink between 2019-2030)

Preserved Vintage 2015 Sardines. Awesome looking and tasting.

Baguette with Rodolphe le Meunier Normandy Butter. People always joke that this is the best dish at Republique — it is great.

Yellowfin Tuna “Steak” Tartare with potato chips. Very steaky actually.

Caramelized Onion Tarte Tartin. Drake’s Family Farm Goat Cheese. This was DOTN for me. It’s cooked upside down in a (usually cast iron) pan to caramelize the onions. They were perfectly tender and sweet and paired fabulously with the goat cheese.

Mediterranean Black Mussels a la Marinieres. White wine, Strauss creamery butter. Solid Moulles.

French Fries. Tarragon Aioli.

From my cellar: 2001 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques. BH 93. Knockout aromas of wonderfully intense black and red cherry fruit loaded with cassis and a touch of new oak introduce medium-bodied, sweet, harmonious, very expressive and long flavors all underpinned by racy minerality and firm structure. The tannins are prominent but ripe and the density of extract is impressive and this both coats and stains the palate. As it always does, this delivers finesse with real mid-palate punch with near perfect grace. For my taste, I would hold this for another 1 to 3 years but it would be no vinous crime to be drinking this now. Note to be sure to serve this cool as the alcohol becomes noticeable if it becomes a bit too warm. (Drink starting 2013)

2014 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne. VM 94. Healthy medium red Sexy, complex aromas of strawberry, crushed stone and rose petal convey a captivating combe coolness Wonderfully concentrated and bright, combining classic 2014 salty minerality with superb fruit intensity Boasts the kind of restrained generosity of fruit that reminds me of the ’99s in the early going A compelling, saline vin de terroir but not a powerhouse The long, rising finish features very suave tannins (Drink between 2023-2034)

Burgundy Escargots en Croute. Garlic Parsley Butter. Classic. Crispy pastry and lots of butter and garlic. If anything needed more interior.

Bouillabaisse. Rock cod, clams, mussels, prawns. Very nice broth (could have used more) and lots of seafood.

Liberty Farms Duck Breast. Tenerelli Orchards Plums, Baby Beets, Barley. Good, but not as exciting.

2002 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche. VM 94. The 2002 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a very detailed bouquet with ebullient red berry fruit, sous-bois, bay leaf and a very subtle hint of liquorice. This is a very “involving” nose, one that you easily lose yourself within. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, notes of tea leaves, bay leaf and just a splash of balsamic infusing the red fruit. It leads to a nicely grippy, earthy finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent. Tasted at Sarah Marsh MW’s 2002 Red Burgundy tasting. (Drink between 2018-2032)

2002 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. VM 96+. Good deep red-ruby. Superripe aromas of black raspberry, wild blackberry, blueberry syrup, mocha and licorice. Large-scaled, dense and broad, but more broodingly backward today than the Bonnes-Mares. But this stunning wine shows uncanny energy and sappiness in the mouth and great breadth, solidity and lift on the finish, with explosive flavors of blueberry, blackberry, raspberry and menthol.

Beef Short Rib a la Bourguignon. Meaty.

Tarts on the offering at the beginning of the night. Half of a couple of these were still around when we were leaving (and we were the only people left in the restaurant). I asked the server to buy some to take home to my wife. The “curse” of the Republique desserts continued because the staff stole them out from under my nose (taking them home themselves) and I never got my to-go — all gone!
Cheese on the offer too.

Chocolate Tart. Creamy and decadent.

Mint chocolate chip ice cream. Not as good as mine :-).
Fig tart.

Mango sorbetto. Again, not as good as mine.

This was a great night full of great company, food and wines. I thought all the appetizers were really very very good. The mains (like the duck and beef) were good, but not that exciting. The space is fun, but loud and very crowded which is a little worrying with a pandemic raging. I look forward to returning when things are a bit calmer.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (1)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Bicyclette, Burgundy, Liz Lee, Sage Society, Walter Manzke, Wine

No. 1 Charcoal Really Is

Mar09

Restaurant: No. 1 Charcoal BBQ

Location: 112 N Chandler Ave #101, Monterey Park, CA 91754. (626) 281-5288

Date: August 22, 2021 & March 13, 2022

Cuisine: Chinese BBQ Skewers

Rating: Fabulous food — Highly recommended for the adventurous

Yarom and I discovered this Chinese BBQ joint while exploring the area (and eating at a nearby Northern style place).

It’s around the corner from Garvey, not far from the lots of places I’ve frequented.

Inside is amusingly peculiar, the current Chinese BBQ place having clearly taken over a space that was once an 80s or 90s Japanese restaurant, complete with sushi bar and wood paneled tatami private dining rooms. In typical Chinese fashioned they didn’t redecorate. As far as I can tell most of the business in summer of 2021 is takeout.

The magic occurs here in this sloppy looking (but tasty) charcoal grill under the hood.

You can still see the sushi freezers on the bar. Everything is just cluttered with random crap.

We used this private dining room, which while a bit awkward to climb into was very cute and the atmosphere was way better than the messy front room and its constant stream of takeout customers.

The menu.

Western Chinese skewer powder.

Jellishfish — quite good, although it could have been tangier. Notice the “plates” that consist of styrofoam takeout containers ripped in half.

Tofu with century egg — delicious with awesome savory notes.

Cucumbers with slightly peanuty dressing.

House Special Beef — there was a delicious brown MSG sauce (pictured below).

Crack sauce.

Pig ears.

Cold lamb with house special sauce.

Cold sesame noodles.

Lamb “Casserole”. Not bad.

Shredded potato. Great.

Stinky Tofu. Stinky!

Spicy tofu sauce.

Dumplings with 3 ingredients. Typical boiled dumplings.

Spicy Crawfish — great sauce, hard to eat as usual.

Spicy “casserole” (aka Mala hot pot).

Extra spam.

Beef tongue

Lamb skewers. All these skewers had a lovely charcoal flavor and were sizzling hot and delicious. The awesome tablewares continue with some cheap paper plates.

Pork.

House special spare ribs — boney but incredible flavor.

Sausages — a bit sweet and awesome.

BBQ Leek — great.

Beef tendon.

Chicken Feet.

Fish Tofu — a touch sweet and spicy.

Lamb Brisket. Good enough we ordered seconds.

Cabbage with garlic — incredible. Really stunning cabbage dish.

King Oyster Mushrooms.

Enoiki Mushrooms.

Grilled BBQ Squid — a touch fishy but good.

BBQ Garlic!

Ball of Quail.

Reminds me a bit of:

Sliced potatoes.

Garlic with a side of eggplant. Also awesome.

Crispy Chicken Bones. Amazing sauce and crunch.

Mascarpone Coffee Crunch Gelato — A base infused with Mascarpone Cheese then blended with house-made Coffee Crunch — created by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #cheesecake #mascarpone #cheese #coffee #CoffeeCrunch #candy

Grapefruit Aperol Tarragon Sorbetto — Cold pressed Fresh Grapefruit juice from my garden, Aperol and fresh Tarragon! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Unique and bracing — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #grapefruit #aperol #tarragon

Strawberry Jam Gelato — an awesome dairly Strawberry base swirled with Strawberry Jam — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — sugar time! — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #strawberry #jam

Our fun little room.

Our wines for the night.

No. 1 Charcoal is one of those surprising SGV finds that make the drive east so so worth it. Despite the amusingly “casual” (or ad hoc) hole-in-the-wall style of the restaurant and the crappy disposable “serving dishes” the food here was actually incredible. It was just full of flavor. Highly recommended for the adventurous.

A second visit in March of 2022 reconfirmed that this is a darn tasty place with a fun room.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: bbq, BYOG, Chinese cuisine, Gelato, No. 1 Charcoal BBQ, SGV, skewers, Wine

Iron Teapot Dome

Feb05

Restaurant: Iron Teapot Dum Sum & Bar

Location: 10306 Venice Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90034. (310) 736-1803

Date: August 18, 2021

Cuisine: Dim Sum

Rating: Good food, terrible service system

I was surprised to hear that a “real” dim sum restaurant had opened in Culver City. It’s certainly a neighborhood I know well having had an office there for years and owned and operated a restaurant (just blocks from this location). The concept is basically a menu like the “daytime” menu from a regular Cantonese dim sum place, without the evening banquet menu.

The interior space is tiny, right on busy Venice Blvd near the many good Indian and Mexican places.

They have a large outside patio which was great on this warm August night. They also have one of those whacky “staff free” ordering systems where you order on your phone, no physical menus, just a QR code, and the food comes to the table. This turned out to be quite the issue (more on this at the bottom).

Chili oil, ginger, mustard.

They give you containers where you can mix your own blends which is nice.

Fresh chopped persian cucumbers tossed in a sesame oil with sweetened and salted garlic.

涼拌海蜇. Cold jellyfish marinated in a sesame oil, vinegar and Chinese spices.

哈高蝦 – Crystal Shrimp Dumpling.

Crystal steamed dumpling made with shrimp and chives.

大烧卖燒賣 Sui Mai. Plump cylindrical steamed dumplings made of juicy pork and ground shrimp topped with fish roe/Masago.

排骨. Steamed pork spare ribs in a garlic and black bean sauce.

咖哩雞餃. Curry Chicken Crystal dumpling. We’re dim sum on the westside, we have a license to be a bit different. It’s nice to see some variants from the usual dim sum like this.

鮑魚糯米鸡 . Abalone, Chicken, and sticky rice wrapped in a lotus leaf glutinous rice steamed and steamed. Abalone is a sea snail that tastes like heaven.

The interior.

Braised Chicken Feet, in a sweet garlic soy, sesame oil and onion sauce. This version is not as saucy and gloopy, allowing you to enjoy succulent bird feet tendons & skin the right way.

Honeycomb beef/cow stomach braised and steamed with five spices, garlic, and sweet soy so that it tastes like.. um… um.. heavenly goodness.

叉烧BBQ Pork – BBQ tender pork with a sweet Chinese BBQ sauce.

咸水角. Fried Soft sweet Mochi stuffed with ground pork and chicken. Classic favorite that is crunchy on the outside with soft mochi filling.

Classic steamed Turnip Cake with ham prepared with a light fry (different from the traditional pan fry).

Light & crispy fried soft tofu with salt, pepper, and five spice. 椒鹽炸豆腐.

Cuttlefish & Pork Soup Dumpling. Juicy pork dumpling mixed with the unique flavor cuttlefish. Blue Xiao Long Bao.

韩元–辣椒油. Ground shrimp and pork filled wontons in a spicy peppercorn, malat chili oil.

腊肠包. Classic steamed bun wrapped over classic Chinese sausage. Dim sum “snausages”.

Classic Dim Sum dessert made with an egg custard baked in a flaky puff pastry (Not the less tasty pie crust style). This is the better style.

黑流沙包 Premium dessert made with black squid ink and filled with a sweetened salted egg yolk that is specially prepared to ooze out like Lava. Made only by highly skilled Dim Sum chefs. Remember not to pop this in your mouth. Open it over your plate and enjoy the oozing heavenly goodness of the sweet salted egg yolk.

馬拉糕. Ma Lai Go is a dim sum classic steamed sponge cake that’s extremely soft, springy and sweet.

The gang.

The dim sum itself was actually quite good. Maybe not on a piece by piece basis quite as good as a great SGV dim sum place, but quite solid. Almost as good and better by far than someplace like Bao or Dim Sum House. And there was a nice variety of dishes. More even than many regular dim sum places, but missing some of the more homestyle Chinese items like congee or Cheung Fun (which is a total dim sum staple).

The main problem lay with the weird phone based ordering system. Now granted, we were there only a couple weeks (maybe a month or two) after they opened, so hopefully they have fixed some of the bugs — but it was awful. We ordered. Stuff arrived in a completely random order with huge gaps between dishes. At first, they were stuck in some kind of infinite loop where they brought us “3 sets of crystal shrimp” then “3 sets of har gow” then they did waves of those again (even though we had only ordered each once). Then they did a third wave of same. They didn’t charge us for all the repeats, but it took like 90 minutes (and nothing else different came out) so people pigged out again and again on the same dishes and were too full to eat the rest. Instead of the 35 minutes the above would take at a normal Cantonese place (too fast) the above took like 3 hours (too slowly paced). Pacing was WAY off with big gaps and very little control. It was just a bit comical. We also had too many people for this kind of restaurant (8-10). 4-6 would be better.

But the manager was very nice and tried to reign in the chaos a bit (not totally successfully) and they comped a bunch of stuff.

The restaurant has no parking, but (sketchy) street parking is plentiful. I also worry that they won’t survive as the food is very Chinese and Culver City is a TERRIBLE neighborhood for authentic flavors. Sorry, but having owned a restaurant there it was pretty clear that the locals are nice, curious and all that, but very “Mayberry”.

In any case, I have to go again and see how it has progressed.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Chinese cuisine, Culver City, Dim sum, hedonists, Iron Teapot, Wine

Wolvesmouth Win

Jan02

Restaurant: Wolvesmouth [1, 2]

Location: Los Angeles

Date: July 18, 2021

Cuisine: Modernist

Rating: Very tasty and great night

It’s been 7 years since I went to a Wolvesmouth dinner. My previous visit was great fun, but it was for a long time a complicated “application based” dinner and I’m kinda lazy about such things. So when some of my friends decided to buy out the night and invited me I jumped at the chance and brought along my entire family, including my parents, wife, and brother.

In these uncertain times, albeit in the relatively optimistic early/mid summer window, this dinner was held in the Chef Craig Thornton’s home.

The dining table is right in front of the open kitchen.

Champagnes at the ready.

2004 Dom Pérignon Champagne. VM 97. Another stellar wine, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic development, as well as a bit of added weight it did not have as a young wine. The 2004 remains a bright, mid-weight DP built on persistence and length more than overt volume. I have always had a soft spot for the 2004. This tasting does nothing to dampen that enthusiasm. (Drink between 2019-2039)

Jeridan shows off the Krug.
Our handwritten menu for the night.

NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvee Edition 169eme. VM 94. Krug’s NV Grande Cuvée 169ème Édition is brisk and finely cut, with terrific energy driving the citrus, floral and light tropical notes. Even with all of its energy, the 169 balances the vibrancy of the late-ripening 2013 vintage it is built on, with the depth that the reserve wines added to the blend. The 169 drinks well now but clearly has the potential to age. The 169 is a blend of 146 separate wines back to 2000. Krug ID: 120003. (Drink between 2022-2042)

2004 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. VM 97+. Krug’s 2004 Vintage is absolutely mesmerizing. Layers of bright, chiseled fruit open up effortlessly as the wine fleshes out with time in the glass. Persistent and beautifully focused, with a translucent sense of energy, the 2004 captures all the best qualities of the year. Moreover, the 2004 is clearly superior to the consistently underwhelming 2002 and the best Krug Vintage since 1996. Readers who can find it should not hesitate, as it is a magical bottle. (Drink between 2017-2044)

2006 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. VM 97. The 2006 Krug Vintage is fabulous. Here the richness, breadth and texture of Pinot come through loud and clear in a Champagne that is classic Krug. Red plum, coffee, spice, baked apple tart and lemon confit all flesh out effortlessly in the glass. The ripeness of the year is evident, and yet the vibrancy of the Chardonnay lends so much energy. The 2006 can be enjoyed today, but also has the balance and stuffing to develop well for many years to come. This is a superb showing from the 2006. This is Krug ID: 118014. (Drink between 2021-2041)

Most of the savory dishes tonight have two components, in this case the middle of the bowl and the sandwich on the right.

Tempura Fried Quail. White BBQ, piquante with green tomato and dill. The sauce was amazing, very zingy.

Cheddar biscuit with pimento cheese.

A pescatarian version of the dish had something else fried up besides the quail.

From my cellar: 2011 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Narvaux. 92 points. Punchy and broad. With most vivid palate among all village-level wine tonight. Hint of Santalum toward the end.

2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Puligny-Montrachet Le Trézin. BH 89-91. A discreet, even shy nose offers up attractively fresh and ultra-pure notes of citrus, pear and a hint of acacia blossom. There is excellent delineation to the intense and clean middle weight flavors that possess good verve and plenty of minerality on the solidly persistent if only moderately complex finish.

2010 Rhys Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard. VM 94. The 2010 Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard is a much deeper, vertical wine that fills out all layers of dimension and flavor. Crushed rocks, white flowers and lemon are some of the notes that flow from this powerful, intense Chardonnay. The Alpine is all about tension and energy. I loved it. (Drink between 2013-2017)

Halibut with corn, zucchini, sungold tomatoes, taragon pelmeni.

Ceviche verde. Super tangy!

2012 Sine Qua Non In the Abstract. VM 94. The 2012 White Wine In The Abstract represents a return to a much more opulent style after a few years in which the Sine Qua Non whites were a bit more energetic than is typically the case. Honey, apricot, mint, orange blossom and spices meld together in a huge, viscous wine that covers every inch of the palate. The purity of the fruit here is simply striking. (Drink between 2014-2022)

2015 Progeny Winery Trinity Blanc. 92 points. This Trinity Blanc was so good. These Rhône whites can be hit or miss for me, but this nailed it. Equal parts Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. Improved so much as it warmed. Viscous. Honeycomb, tart pineapple and mint aromatics with bruised pear and sea salt on the palate. Delicious. Fruit like this from Veeder, especially for white wine, is such a knockout when it comes to texture.

2019 Ceritas Rosé of Pinot Noir. 91 points. Light salmon color. Nose offers fresh watermelon and watermelon rind with a hint of lemon and wild strawberries. Light fruit flavor, strawberries and watermelon. Shows a nice tartness to it that adds a refreshing element. Quite enjoyable.

Dish #2.

Pork Belly. Hazelnut, yellow wax beans, blue lake, shiitake pork jus.

Cornbread waffle with maple butter.

The pescatarian sub.

Albacore. Coconut arancini, charcoal chili broth, green papaya, cauliflowers, Thai basil. Great flavors. The broth underneath was intensely limey. The whole thing was a bit spicy and had very interesting soft textures. It did come off very Thai (in a modernist way).

From my cellar: 1976 Robert Ampeau & Fils Volnay 1er Cru Santenots. JG 90. The 1976 Santenots from Domaine Robert Ampeau is a very good example of the vintage that has resolved its tannins quite well and now shows no rough edges on the backend. The deep, complex and slightly roasted nose offers up scents of baked black cherries, dark berries, bonfires, damp earth, coffee bean, game and forest floor. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very nicely balanced for a ’76, with tertiary flavors, melted tannins and good length and grip on the complex finish. Good juice in the Ampeau house style. (Drink between 2010-2025)

2001 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays. VM 94. Moderately saturated red. Wonderfully suave, mellow, inviting scents of raspberry, mocha, smoke and underbrush; the most resolved and integrated nose to this point of the tasting. A classic, harmonious Clos des Lambrays with impeccable balance and a wonderfully refined, silky texture to its flavors of red cherry, red berries, mocha and underbrush energized by high notes of pepper and spices. Not a powerhouse but this beauty fills the mouth while conveying a magically weightless impression. Finishes with sweet, perfectly supported tannins, a sexy floral quality and subtle building length. Two thousand one was a great vintage for Morey-Saint-Denis grand crus, noted Thierry Brouin, who told me he also loved the Clos de Tart. About as elegant as this wine gets. This vintage was the lowest in total acidity of my tasting but the wine hardly lacks for verve. And it has blossomed beautifully in the bottle. In fact, this is the highest score I’ve yet given for this vintage of Clos des Lambrays. (13.8% alcohol; 3.62 pH; 3.3 g/l acidity) (Drink between 2019-2033)

2005 Mongeard-Mugneret Clos Vougeot. BH 91-93. Somewhat curiously, this is more aromatically elegant with subtle toast aromas serving to highlight the spicy red and black fruit mix nuanced by hints of earth and smoke that can also be found on the delicious yet entirely serious big bodied yet textured and relatively refined flavors, all wrapped in a finish that is both powerful and impressively long. (Drink starting 2015)

2010 Ladd Cellars Pinot Noir Russian River Valley. 91 points. Medium garnet color. Tastes like a bowl of cherries. A bit too sweet for my palate. Some acid but not enough to over come the cherries.

Rabbit Fritter, Mole poblano crema, blue prawn, celery jicama, churro, cabbage.

Pescatarian sub.

1996 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain. VM 93. Healthy dark medium red. Warm-year scents of plum, raspberry liqueur, mocha, hot rocks and gravel struck me as Graves-like. Large-scaled and velvety, with a slight edge of herbs conveying a wider range of ripeness than usual for this bottling. Perhaps still a bit youthfully disjointed but savory, very rich and chewy. Finishes with surprising acidity and substantial if slightly unrefined tannins that dust the tongue and teeth. (13% alcohol) (Drink between 2022-2037)

2013 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde. VM 93. Bright violet. Powerful dark fruit, violet pastille, olive and candied licorice aromas are lifted and sharpened by peppery spice and smoky mineral notes. Coats the palate with nicely concentrated, smoke-tinged boysenberry, cherry liqueur and spicecake flavors that become livelier with air. Shows impressive clarity and seamless texture and finishes very long and sappy; chewy tannins build slowly and fold into the sweet dark fruit. (Drink between 2021-2029)

1995 Seavey Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. ST 88 points. Good dark red. More subdued and diffuse on the nose than the 2004, showing less fruit character and floral lift. Then rather supple and a touch balsamic in the mouth, with plum and redcurrant flavors complicated by a spicy element and a musky, leathery quality. Finishes with building tannins that turn a bit dry with aeration. Doesn’t offer quite the purity of the 1994 but here the nose and palate are more in sync. (Drink between 2017-2022)

Slicing some beef.

Beef Rib. Lemon Gnocchi, onion cherry jus, grilled snap peas, salsa verde.

Pescatarian sub.

2015 Château Rieussec. AG 97. The 2015 Rieussec is gorgeous. Scents of apricot jam, honey, mint and wild flowers lift from the glass. Delicate and gracious, with terrific freshness, the wine is all polish. Reflecting both the style of the year and the desire to make a slightly lighter Sauternes, the 2015 is rendered in a style the emphasizes finesse over power. The blend is 86% Sémillon and 14% Sauvignon Blanc. (Drink between 2022-2045)

Choux au Craquelin Cream Puff with chocolate, toasted meringue, and hazelnut mousse.

Buttermulk panna cotta, strawberry, strawberry crumble, concentrated strawberry. Classic strawberries and cream but this combo never gets old. The panna cotta had a lovely creaminess and the strawberry was very intense, plus the textures were varied and fun.

The panna cotta had gelatin in it, so this is a version without.

Orange Old Fashioned Sorbetto — Cold Pressed Orange and Tangerine Juice, Knob Creek Bourbon and Angostura Bitters! Topped with cherries — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Really tastes like an Old Fashioned –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #orange #tangerine #bourbon #KnobCreek #bitters #Angostura

Matcha Almond Oat “Latte” Gelato – Ceremonial Matcha Green Tea and Sicilian Noto Romano Almond flavor this all new surprisingly creamy Vegan Oat Milk Base! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #almond #matcha #GreenTea #Sicily #Oatly #Vegan #OatMilk

This was a fabulous night. Great wines and atmosphere, but most importantly wonderful company and some really tasty food. I was very impressed. There was no obvious “theme” to the menu, but each dish was very strongly executed with bold and powerful — and tasty — flavors.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Champagne, Craig Thornton, Wine, Wolvesmouth

Uncanny Valle

Dec29

Restaurant: Valle

Location: 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291. (310) 299-9735

Date: July 17, 2021

Cuisine: Oaxacan-ish Hipster Mexican

Rating: Tasty, but the service was horrendous

For the last several years this space was home to MTN which was a Hipster Izakaya that I actually really enjoyed. Under the same owners it rebooted during the pandemic into a sort of “Oaxacan Inspired” Mexican place. It should be noted that Valle has subsequently closed for good and the owners (part of the Gjelina group) have walked away from the property.

Inspired.

This being post lockdown they turned the former parking lot roof garage into a fairly cute patio.

The menu.

From my cellar: 2012 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Reserve Tradition. AG 93. A haunting nose combines bittersweet perfumed iris, saffron and faint hints of smoky Latakia tobacco with intimations of grapefruit and apple that go on to supply satisfying primary juiciness of a satin-textured, strikingly buoyant palate. A mouthwatering upwelling suggestive of salted veal stock complements the inner-mouth perfume of a soothingly lingering tobacco- and pepper-tinged finish. (Drink between 2015-2030)

House-made Chips.

Guacamole.

Salsa.

Verdolaga. Purslane, plums, pepitas, mint-lemon dressing.

Tomato Salad. Heirloom tomatoes, seasalt, gomashio, epazote, crispy shallots.

Coliflor Rostizada con Mole Verde. Roasted cauliflower, green mole, pepitas seeds.

Baked Fish Collar. Marinated in mojo de ajo, arugula, red onion jalepeno.

Quesadilla de Flor de Calabaza. Squash Blossom, blue corn tortilla, quesillo, epazote.

Pork Belly taco.

Barbacoa de Borrego taco.

Pescado Taco.

Carne Asada. Grass fed hanger steak, grilled onion, guacamole, salsa molcajete, served with tortillas.

Pescado. Local rock cod vermillion, potatoes, tomatillo salsa.

Pork Chop en Mole Negro. Peades & Barnett pork chop, mole negro, pickled red onion, sesame seed, served with tortillas.

Barbacoa de Borrego. Cabbage, cilantro, lime, fermented chile salsa.

Churros con crema de chocolate.

The food was actually pretty tasty with strong zesty flavors but let me get into the “experience.”

While the staff was generally nice, the service was beyond bad. Textbook bad. It took about 30 minutes to get the waiter to come over. We asked for wine glasses. They never came. I had to go behind the bar and get them myself. It was probably 45-50 minutes in that we ordered. The poor single waiter had the entire patio to himself. He spent all of his time stuck at the POS (Point of Sale computer). They used the dubious system where the POS kicks orders in and runners bring it out — the waiter doesn’t bring (or check) anything. In this case nothing was coordinated. Bus boys would clear the plates and silverware. Food would come randomly with no plates or silverware. Waiter was never there. We would grab bus boys and ask for plates. I ended up going behind the bar again multiple times and bringing my own plates and silverware to the table. This happened for the entire meal. It took a good 1.5 hours longer than it should have. There was no coordination at all.

At the end I cornered the manager and gave her a friendly (but stern) earful as a fellow restaurant owner. She apologized vaguely and made excuses. She wasn’t listening. Textbook bad management.

It should be noted again that Valle has closed permanently. They blame the landlord on their web page. I have my doubts.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Family, Mexican, Oaxacan, Tacos, Valle, Wine

Tar and Roses Redux

Dec25

Restaurant: Tar & Roses [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 602 Santa Monica Blvd. Santa Monica, CA 90401. (310) 587-0700

Date: July 16, 2021

Cuisine: American Tapas

Rating: Has not only held up but improved

Tar & Roses is a new American tapas-style place in Santa Monica, loosely in the vein of Rustic Canyon or Gjelina. Despite the relative crowding of this market, it’s an extremely popular addition.

The Chef & Owner is Andrew Kirschner, a Santa Monica-native who grew up in a family with a strong appreciation for travel, food and wine, Chef Andrew Kirschner initiated his cooking education at the age of fifteen with a summer job in the kitchen of a local restaurant. Like many great chefs, his culinary journey started as a job, but quickly turned into a passion. After Kirschner became the sous chef for Chadwick in Beverly Hills, and then a chef/partner at the popular neighborhood spot Table 8 in West Hollywood, where he met and bonded with his Tar & Roses sous chef, Jacob Wildman.

Years ago (2015) I had a few issues with service here, but after some good takeout experiences during lockdown decided to head back in summer of 2021 with my parents and family.

The space is airy and pleasant.

There is a nice patio too (not pictured) which is actually where we sat on this particular day.
The current menu.

YELLOWTAIL CRUDO. Citrus / Avocado / Jalapeño / White Soy. Very zesty.

OXTAIL DUMPLINGS. San Bai Su / Chili / Green Onion. Super tasty with a lot of umami.
MOORISH MARINATED LAMB KABOB. Banana Raita / Harissa. Nice grilled lamb flavor.

BABY ARTICHOKES. Garlic Confit / Parmesan / Lemon Yogurt / Mint.

BALSAMIC GLAZED RIBS. Aleppo Pepper / Fried Basil. Awesome.

Wood roasted baby carrots.

SQUID INK FETTUCINI. Octopus / Blistered Tomato / Basil.

From my cellar: 1996 Robert Ampeau & Fils Volnay 1er Cru Santenots. 91 points. Hazy, sour cherry, sous bois.

I brought another wine too a NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 168eme — but forgot to photo it.
SHELLFISH POT. Scallops / Clams / Mussels / Shrimp / Maitake / Curry. The broth was awesome with a very strong southeast Asian flavor.

ALASKAN KING SALMON. Tiny Beans / Escarole / Tomato / Salsa Verde.

WHOLE FRIED SNAPPER FOR TWO. Cold Soba Noodles / Dipping Sauce. Fabulous dish. The fish sauce (not pictured) really made the dish.

EGGPLANT. Crispy Garlic / Chili / Slivered Almonds. Hints of both Middle Eastern and Chinese.

KING TRUMPET MUSHROOMS. Soft Egg / Rosemary.

Overall, this was an excellent meal. The patio was great in the “mid-late covid era” and service was good. I think the food has tightened and brightened up a bit since their early days. I liked the variety of mildly exotic influences — and the flavors were strong.

Everyone really enjoyed it.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Champagne, Family, fish, Kurg, Tar & Roses, Volnay, Wine

Dirty Dozen at La Paella

Dec20

Restaurant: La Paella [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 476 South San Vicente Boulevard. Los Angeles, CA 90048. (323) 951-0745

Date: July 14, 2021

Cuisine: Spanish

Rating: Really tasty traditional Spanish

I haven’t been back here in a while, but a Spanish themed Dirty Dozen seemed like just the ticket — and there aren’t really very many Spanish restaurants in LA. Wines were all served blind.

Cute little former house or something near the Beverly Center.

The bar.

Our private room and giant table (and wine table on the left).

NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé. VM 92. Pale orange. High-pitched red berry, orange zest and jasmine aromas, with suave mineral and smoky lees notes adding complexity. Spicy and precise on the palate, showing very good punch to its strawberry and bitter cherry flavors. Opens up smoothly with air and picks up a bitter rhubarb quality that lingers onto the long, tightly focused finish. This bottling showed more brawny character than many past renditions of this <em>cuvée</em>, but with no lack of vivacity.

2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Le Banc. VM 87-89. Pale bright yellow. Fresh nectarine and minerals on the nose. A juicy if tightly wound fruit bomb in the mouth, with its intense stone fruit and citrus flavors complicated by wild herbs. The wine’s calcaire element gives it focus and cut, but there’s nothing hard about the very pure finish, which features sneaky persistence. Made from three vineyards averaging 35 years of age, according to Colin.

Me flighting the food on the fly.

2016 Alonso & Pedrajo Viticultores Rioja Suañé Blanco Reserva. JG 92. The 2016 Rioja “Suañé” Reserva Blanco from Alonso & Pedrajo is fermented and aged three months in amphora and bottled without any added sulfites. The 2016 version is a lovely golden color and offers up a complex bouquet of tangerine, toasted nuts, salty soil tones, citrus peel, a bit of browned butter and a topnote of menthol. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still quite rock solid at the core, with lovely soil signature and grip, almost a bit of backend tannin and a long, complex and zesty finish. There is a touch of natural wine “wildness” on the nose here, but the palate is fresh, vibrant and complex and seems to still have years of life ahead of it. This is hardly a classical example of Rioja Blanco, but it is an excellent wine with its own, unique personality. (Drink between 2021-2026)

From my cellar: 2012 Raul Pérez Rías Baixas Muti. VM 92. Light, bright yellow. High-pitched citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complemented by jasmine, green tea and chalky minerals. The mineral quality carries onto the palate, underscoring vibrant lemon/lime and pear flavors that gain flesh with air. Finishes stony and precise, with excellent persistence and lingering florality.

2017 Rivers-Marie Chardonnay Sonoma Coast. VM93. The 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast) from Rivers-Marie is a fabulous wine in its peer group. Rich, intense and full of flavor, the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay packs a serious punch. Orchard fruit, crème brûlée, butter, tangerine and yellow flowers all develop in a deeply-layered, resonant, utterly gorgeous Chardonnay. Although labeled as an appellation Chardonnay, all the fruit for the Sonoma Coast bottling comes from Riddle. More importantly, the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay is a great example of just how compelling the 2017 vintage is at the top for Sonoma’s Burgundian varieties. And the $30/bottle price range? Insane. (Drink between 2020-2029)

Gambas Al Ajillo. Shrimp sauteed with garlic and chili pod.

Caracoles Al Ajillo. Snails sauteed with garlic and a touch of chilli.

Boquerones En Vinagre. Marinated small silvery fish fillets.

Calamares A La Plancha. Grilled squid with garlic and parsley.

Bread.

Garlic Aioli and Olive Tapanade.

1976 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia. VM 95. Thirty years after the vintage the two 1976 Gran Reservas still fully express the qualities of their unique terroirs. The seductive 1976 Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva is another ethereal beauty, revealing an expressive nose along with notes of earthiness, sweet perfumed fruit, cocoa, flowers and an occasional hint of white truffle that floats out of the glass. Fresher and more vibrant than the Tondonia Gran Reserva, it offers outstanding length and notable structure in an understated yet profound expression of Rioja. It is that rare wine that invites contemplation by engaging all of the taster’s senses. A great effort. (Drink starting 2013)

1994 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia. VM 95. Brilliant red. A highly complex, expansive bouquet evokes cherry liqueur, pipe tobacco, incense, vanilla and woodsmoke, accompanied by hints of five-spice powder and licorice in the background. Sweet, expansive and seamless in texture, offering intense cherry-vanilla, spicecake and rose pastille flavors that deepen slowly as the wine opens up. Fully mature but with plenty of life left in it, this wine finishes impressively long, supple and sweet, displaying discreet tannins, resonating spiciness and suave florality. I reviewed this wine five years ago and am very happy to say that it has improved with additional bottle age. (Drink between 2020-2035)

Aceitunas Variadas. Mixed green and black olives

Champiñones Con Chorizo. Mushrooms with Spanish red sausage.

Croquetas De Pollo. Fried chicken croquettes.

2001 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890 ‘Selección Especial’. 94 points. This is great, and up there with the best La Rioja Alta wines I’ve had, but it still wasn’t quite as good as I’d expected. Personally I think this wine is far from its peak, as it was still evolving in the decanter over the course of the evening. At first it just seemed to have a bit too much oak on display and was slightly out of balance. By the end of the night it was definitely starting to sing, but still felt slightly muted. I am probably being hyper-critical as I was expecting so much, and also I know there can sometimes be wide bottle variation with LRA wines, so it’s possible that was factor here. At any rate there’s no rush to drink and I’m excited to see where it ends up (if I can be patient enough!).

2005 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial. 94 points. Smooth, full and complex. Soft fruit, spice and umami. Tannins are there but well integrated. Love its versatility. Pairs beautifully with so many dishes. It has been a pleasure to share this wine’s journey.

2009 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial. VM 94. Vivid ruby-red. A highly perfumed, expansive bouquet evokes ripe red and dark berries, cherry liqueur, coconut and cigar box, along with a sexy floral nuance that emerges slowly. Plush and seamless on the palate, offering sweet, deeply concentrated blackberry, cherry-vanilla and mocha flavors that are given spine and lift by a core of juicy acidity. Rich yet energetic in style, displaying superb finishing clarity, even tannins and a lingering spicecake note. The Tempranillo saw only American oak while the Mazuelo component saw only French. (Drink between 2020-2030)

The meat tray.

Queso Manchego, En Tacos. Small cubes of Spanish year old sheep cheese.

Chorizo – Importado De España. Slices of imported all natural “Chorizo”: pork, paprika,garlic.

Jamón Serrano – Importado De España. Slices of imported salt-cured ham from Spain.

Yarom, Erick and I split some Chinese caviar to make some Jose tacos.

2003 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. VM 95. Inky ruby. Highly aromatic scents of ripe cherry and dark berries, singed plum, cured tobacco and succulent herbs, with a vanilla undertone. Sweet, expansive and powerful, offering intense black and blue fruit flavors with smoke and floral accents. Rich and full but surprisingly lively, with excellent finishing thrust and sweet, harmonious tannins adding grip. Shows the ripeness of the vintage to good effect; this is a somewhat approachable and exotic Unico, especially with some air, but it has the concentration to age slowly.

2004 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. VM 96. Inky ruby: doesn’t look like a ten-year old wine. A heady, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red and dark berries, vanilla, pipe tobacco, new leather and potpourri, with a subtle mineral flourish. Spicy, sweet and expansive, offering palate-staining cherry compote and cassis flavors with exotic violet and chewing tobacco qualities. Deepens and gains spiciness on the smooth, gently tannic finish, which lingers with superb focus and tenacity.

Arròs Négre. Cuttlefish, calamari, baby shrimp and mussels cooked with rice and squids’ ink.

Paella Valenciana Mixta. Rice, saffron, chicken, pork, seafood, vegetables with a touch of red peppers and rosemary.

Plate of carbs!

2004 Artadi Rioja Viña el Pisón. VM 95. Inky ruby. The nose is breathtaking in its floral, mineral and fruit intensity, offering a near-hallucinogenic bouquet of fresh and dried flowers, raspberry, wild strawberry, blackcurrant, cured meat, licorice, iron and graphite. This smells (and tastes) like a blend of great Hermitage and grand cru Vosne-Romanee. Deep, sexy and ridiculously sweet, the red and dark berry flavors coating every square inch of the palate, with gentle tannins providing enough supporting structure. This is almost absurdly packed with fruit and features a sappy, seemingly endless finish that’s nothing short of remarkable. Wow! (European Cellars, Charlotte, NC)

From my cellar: 2006 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. VM 97. Saturated ruby. An amazingly complex array of red and blue fruit preserve, spice and floral scents is accompanied by suggestions of incense, pipe tobacco, coconut and candied licorice. Utterly stains the palate with impressively concentrated yet lively, smoke- and spice-laced cherry compote, blueberry, fruitcake and violet pastille flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Sappy and broad on the endless finish, which shows outstanding thrust and dusty tannins that are absorbed by the wine’s densely packed fruit. (Drink between 2025-2040)

NV Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único Reserva Especial 2005, 2006, 2007 (2018 Release). VM 95. Inky ruby. A deeply perfumed bouquet evokes ripe and red and dark berries, pipe tobacco, cola, mocha and incense, and a smoky mineral nuance gains strength as the wine opens up. Stains the palate with sweet blueberry liqueur, cherry cola, candied violet and spicecake flavors that smoothly blend richness and energy. Shows no rough edges and finishes extremely long and sappy, with resonating florality and fine-grained tannins that lend gentle closing grip. This is the 2018 release of this non-vintage blend. (Drink between 2022-2035)

NV Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único Reserva Especial 2008, 2009, 2010 (2020 Release). VM 97. Deep, glistening ruby-red. Highly perfumed, expansive aromas of crème de cassis, cherry preserves, vanilla, exotic spices and cured tobacco are complemented by suggestions of licorice, cigar box and espresso. Broad, dense and energetic on the palate, offering intense red and dark fruit, floral pastille, succulent herb and floral pastille flavors that show alluring sweetness and sharp focus. Finishes extremely long and smooth, with sneaky, harmonious tannins and lingering suggestions of candied rose, exotic spices and licorice. This is the 2020 release of this multi-vintage bottling. (Drink between 2025-2039)

Leg of Lamb.

Cornish Hens.

2001 Rotllan Torra Priorat Tirant. VM 91+. Deep red. Exotic coconutty oak on the rather port-like nose. At once sweeter and more primary than the Amadis, with a penetrating minerality. Also quite oaky, but has more jammy plum and blackberry fruit to stand up to the wood. Still, it’s hard to predict whether this slightly pruney wine will reward more time in bottle. Finishes with sweet tannins and good length. (My bottle of the 2000 release last year showed fresher acidity, but this is richer. ) (De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC)

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla El Nido.

Oxtail.

2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots. VM 93-95. Very pale green-tinged yellow. Classic Chablis scents and flavors of white peach, ginger, oyster shell, iodine and flint. Highly concentrated, tactile wine offering an impression of strong dry extract and a compelling combination of pliancy and energy. A very powerful, structured Chablis with a long, chewy, saline finish. Really saturates the palate without leaving any impression of weightiness. Offers splendid potential.

Flan De Naranja. Crème caramel with a light touch of fresh orange.

Blue Cherry Gelato – a blend of Morello Cherry, intense Amarena Cherry, and Blueberry fruit make this dairy gelato really pop — topped with Candied Amarena Cherries — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #amarena #morello #cherry #blueberry

Burnt Basque Cheesecake Gelato — Milk steeped with Tahitian Vanilla Beans and Valencia Orange Peels and then blended with Cream-cheese and Egg Yolks, layered with house made “burnt” Caramel and topped with house-made Caramel Brittle, finished with the torch! — created by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #basque #cheesecake #caramel #brittle #orange

The lineup

I love Spanish cooking, and La Paella has a really nice traditional kitchen. It reminds me of Botin in Madrid at the opposite end of the Spanish culinary spectrum from modernist Calima and the ElBuli school. Personally, I love both and I need to head back to La Paella to sample even more of their menu. Some of my favorites are Gambas Pil Pil, Anchovies en Boccerones, seafood paella, and, of course, the flan.

The wines tonight were really awesome. Great wine and we had a nice mix of reserva and vintage unicos plus a ton of old Rioja. Tonight I liked the vintage ones better in general, but sometimes it’s the other way around. Great juice.

More crazy Hedonist adventures or
LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: blind tasting, BYOG, Dirty Dozen, Gelato, hedonists, La Paella, Spanish Cuisine, Wine

Favori Dinner

Dec09

Restaurant: Favori [1, 2]

Location: 3502 W 1st St, Santa Ana, CA 92703. (714) 531-6838

Date: June 1 & July 9, 2021

Cuisine: Vietnamese

Rating: Great old school place

We enjoyed Favori so much on a recent crawl that we decided to book a wine dinner here.

Favori has been a staple down here in Garden Grove/Santa Ana since the early 80s.

The menu.

Our big table.

Fish sauce.

And super fermented fish sauce.

Chilies.

Goi Cuon. Vietnamese fried spring rolls.

These are served with herbs

You wrap them up like this with the herbs and fish sauce — delicious.

Escargots. Snails in white wine and garlic butter sauce. These are the classic French style and were quite nice. They could have had even more garlic, but they certainly had plenty.

These are served with some garlic bread.

Goi Bo Tai Chanh. Rare Beef Salad. Fabulous version of this dish. Very herby with lots of beef flavor.

Beef rolls wrapped in Betel Leaves. These had a very interesting but strong flavor. I loved them, but they weren’t for everyone.

Ngheu Xao Hung Que. Stir-fried clams + basil leaves. Awesome Thai basil flavor.

Luon Xao Lan. Stir-fried Eel with Curry Sauce. Great curry with rice noodles that soaked up the sauce. Flavorful eel as well, but beware the little bones.

Ech Xao Xa Ot. Stir-fried frog legs + lemongrass & chilies. Incredible chili garlic flavor from this dish. Really spectacular.

Cua Lot Chien Bo. Deep fried soft shelled crab.

Roasted Quails. Interesting prep. Not as good as at Oc & Lau.

Fruits de mer au Gratin. Seafood Baked in Cream Sauce. Ugly but tasted great, although the goopy texture was reminiscent of cream of mushroom soup.

Canard a l’orange. Duck in Grand Mariner Orange Sauce. Like it was pulled through time from 1981! This was the worst dish by far.

Ca ri nam bo. Beef tendon curry. great curry with beef/tendon chunks and potatoes.

Crispy whole catfish! A touch dry, but delicious. Served with rice crepes, herbs, vermicelli, fish sauce etc.

Herbs for the catfish.

Vermicelli for the catfish.

Rice crepes for the catfish.

Bun Cha Ha Noi. Charbroiled Pork with Vermicelli. Delicious pork. Great with fish sauce.

Orange Old Fashioned Sorbetto — Cold Pressed Orange and Tangerine Juice, Knob Creek Bourbon and Angostura Bitters! Topped with cherries — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Really tastes like an Old Fashioned –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #orange #tangerine #bourbon #KnobCreek #bitters #Angostura

Almond Amaretto Truffle Gelato — Amaretto Zabaglione (egg yolk, amaretto, and sugar custard) Sicilian Almond gelato base with stacked layers of house-made Valrhona Almond Amaretti Ganache — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #Valrhona #almond #amaretto #amaretti #cookie #ganache #ChocolateTruffle

Overall, Favori is a great place with a great kitchen and very solid service. They really treated us right. Sure the atmosphere is that dark 80s “old school” charm, but the food is very good. Every Vietnamese dish was fabulous. The weakest stuff is the French style dishes. The escargots were fine but the Duck L’Orange was “interesting” at best and the Fruits de Mer were goopy (even if I liked them). Oh but that lemongrass chili sauce — so good! I over-ordered of course — always do :-).

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Garden Grove, Gelato, hedonists, Orange County, Vietnamese cuisine, Wine

More Uni at Roccos

Dec03

Restaurant: Dinner at the Borgese’s [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

Location: Santa Monica

Date: June 30, 2021

Cuisine: Italian influenced gourmet home cooking

Rating: Awesome

Dinner at the Borgese’s is a special house dinner in Santa Monica cooked by the stunning pro-level home chef Borgese couple. Tonight’s dinner is another Uni themed dinner!

The dynamic Borgese team consists of Rocco, his lovely wife (and the main kitchen chef), and his daughter (helping out with service).

Their house has not only a wine cellar, but a cheese and meat larder!

Plus all this incredible wood fired oven set up.

We have this fabulous outside table, perfect for covid ventilation.

The menu for the evening.

NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 168eme. JG 96+. he new release of Krug Grande Cuvée “168ème Édition” is from the base year of 2012, with the reserve wines in the blend stretching all the way back to 1996. The final cépages has ended up as fifty-two percent pinot noir, thirty-five percent chardonnay and thirteen percent pinot meunier. Forty-two percent of the blend is made up of reserve wines in this beautiful iteration of Grande Cuvée. The bouquet is superb, wafting from the glass in a mosaic of apple, white peach, a touch of Clos du Mesnil-like fresh apricot, almond, a beautifully complex base of soil tones, fresh-baked bread, hints of the caraway seed to come and a whisper of buttery oak (which is particularly evident when the wine is first poured, but quickly is subsumed in the other elements on the nose). On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and very complex, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil signature, utterly refined mousse and a long, perfectly balanced and very energetic finish. This is one of the most effortless and seamlessly balanced young releases of Grande Cuvée in several years and is utterly brilliant wine. (Drink between 2020-2080)

2007 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut. VM 96. Taittinger’s 2007 Comtes de Champagne will be nearly impossible to resist upon release. Soaring aromatics, mid-weight structure and soft contours give the 2007 its alluring personality. Lemon oil, white flowers, mint, chamomile and green pear add brightness and freshness throughout, with a persistent, clean finish that makes it impossible to resist a second taste. Today, the 2007 comes across as a slightly more open version of the 2004, with freshness that makes that wine so appealing, and a touch of textural richness that recalls the 2002. Although the 2007 does not have the explosive energy or verticality of the profound 2006, it will drink better earlier. The 2007 has been positively brilliant on the three occasions I have tasted it so far. (Drink between 2018-2047)

Tartare coda Gialla al Tartufo. Yellowtail tartare with truffle.

Uni with truffle.

NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 168eme (second bottle). JG 96+. he new release of Krug Grande Cuvée “168ème Édition” is from the base year of 2012, with the reserve wines in the blend stretching all the way back to 1996. The final cépages has ended up as fifty-two percent pinot noir, thirty-five percent chardonnay and thirteen percent pinot meunier. Forty-two percent of the blend is made up of reserve wines in this beautiful iteration of Grande Cuvée. The bouquet is superb, wafting from the glass in a mosaic of apple, white peach, a touch of Clos du Mesnil-like fresh apricot, almond, a beautifully complex base of soil tones, fresh-baked bread, hints of the caraway seed to come and a whisper of buttery oak (which is particularly evident when the wine is first poured, but quickly is subsumed in the other elements on the nose). On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and very complex, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil signature, utterly refined mousse and a long, perfectly balanced and very energetic finish. This is one of the most effortless and seamlessly balanced young releases of Grande Cuvée in several years and is utterly brilliant wine. (Drink between 2020-2080)

2006 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. VM 97. The 2006 Krug Vintage is fabulous. Here the richness, breadth and texture of Pinot come through loud and clear in a Champagne that is classic Krug. Red plum, coffee, spice, baked apple tart and lemon confit all flesh out effortlessly in the glass. The ripeness of the year is evident, and yet the vibrancy of the Chardonnay lends so much energy. The 2006 can be enjoyed today, but also has the balance and stuffing to develop well for many years to come. This is a superb showing from the 2006. This is Krug ID: 118014. (Drink between 2021-2041)

2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. VM 99. The 2008 Cristal is one of the most complete, most dazzling Champagnes I have ever tasted. A stunning wine from any and all perspectives, the 2008 simply has it all. Spherical in construction, with superb persistence. The 2008 takes hold of all the senses and never gives up. One of the many things that makes the 2008 special is a combination of ripe fruit and bright, piercing acidity. Marzipan, lemon confit, dried flowers and orchard fruit all build into the explosive, resonant finish. “We learned from the mistakes of 1996, when we picked more on acid than ripeness, as was the norm in Champagne back then” Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon told me recently. “In 1996, the best fruit turned out to be the last picks, where the fruit was physiologically ripe. Today, we aim to pick all our fruit with that criteria.” (Drink between 2020-2050)

Just some of the sea urchins.

Bisque di Ricci con Arogosta. Uni bisque with lobster.

1996 Dominique Laurent Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversées Blanc.

1997 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Pur Sang. 92 points.

From my cellar: 2012 Paolo Bea Arboreus. 92 points. Medium orange color. Drank a glass over an hour. Interesting as an intellectual curiosity….Reminiscent of an older, tired and overly oxidative Lopez de Heredia, this has all of the bitter, lacquer qualities. The nose offers some nice lemon and tangerine oil, lacquer, and beeswax in addition to the baked apple and oxidativeness. The palate is rather oily, lemon oil, tangerine oil, very oxidative, waxy, acidic and grippy with a dry tannin like extract.

Pasta con Ricci. Uni pasta.

Lobsters on the grill.

Uni butter!

The team working on the lobsters.

2010 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux. VM 95. Raveneau’s 2010 Chablis Butteaux is beautifully expressive on the bouquet, where layers of petrol, smoke and melted rocks fuse together with notable elegance. The Butteaux is a wine of all dimensions; it is at once vertical and horizontal, with fabulous purity and exceptional overall balance. This is one of the larger-scaled 2010s here. In many ways it encapsulates the personality of the vintage. (Drink starting 2015)

2013 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest. VM 91-94. Bright, subdued aromas of pear drop and citrus fruit. Densely packed and saline in the mouth, offering terrific stony energy and depth along with a sexy impression of sucrosite . Still tight, austere and uncompromisingly dry for all its richness. More obviously soil-driven than the foregoing samples–really classic stony Chablis premier cru.

Aragosta con Burro di Ricci. Lobster with uni butter.

2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes. VM 94. The 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes is one of the more succulent wines in this range. Dazzling in its volume and pure textural depth, the 2011 impresses for its balance and sense of harmony. Mineral notes appear over time, adding dimension and complexity. What a gorgeous wine this is. (Drink starting 2014)

2018 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet. BH 90-92. A ripe, cool and pure nose possesses a lovely array of pear, white peach and subtle acacia wisps that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. There is both good volume and richness to the utterly delicious and seductively textured flavors that manage to possess a beguiling refinement on the clean and dry finish that offers very good persistence and especially so for a villages level wine. (Drink starting 2025)

2009 Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne. VM 93+. Full yellow. Captivating aromas of ginger, lime, fresh apricot and ginger. Tightly coiled and spicy, with strong acidity and a dry, savory character giving the mid-palate an urgent intensity. Bracing flavors of lime, crushed stone and almost metallic minerality showcase the vintage’s density of texture, but with a degree of energy rare for the year. Finishes with terrific persistence. I would not be surprised to see this wine merit an even higher score with several years of bottle aging.

Risotta all’ Ricci. Uni risotto.

2008 Hundred Acre Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.

2003 Château Léoville Barton. VM 93. Good medium ruby. Explosive nose of black raspberry, coffee and leather. Hugely rich, dense and sweet, with deep flavors of currant, plum and chocolate complicated by underlying minerality. Wonderfully dense and full on the back end, with broad tannins and palate-staining length. Today, the 2005 comes off as dry by comparison. A standout of the vintage, and likely to be long-lived in the context of the year.

1989 Château Léoville Las Cases. VM 88. The 1989 Léoville Las-Cases came from a bottle that was recorked in 2017 at the property. The bouquet is rather muffled, and quite rustic and earthy in style, missing the breeding that Jean-Hubert Delon instills nowadays. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannin. Rustic red fruit mixes with iron ore, orange peel, game and bacon fat notes. Old-school in style but missing the backbone and tension, the precision synonymous with this estate. Overall, it is slightly underperforming in the context of the vintage. Tasted at the property and in London, both bottles ex-château. (Drink between 2019-2025)

2009 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon. VM 95. Opaque purple. Red and dark berry preserves and candied flowers on the seductively perfumed nose. Juicy, deeply pitched black raspberry and blueberry flavors are complemented by notes of violet, rose and licorice. Offers an uncanny blend of richness and vivacity, with a seamless texture and no excess fat. Closes on a peppery note, with persistent florality. I find this highly seductive wine surprisingly open right now.

Meats for the grill.

Costelette di Agnello alla Legna. Lamb chops on wood fire.

Bistecca alla Legna di New York Wagyu. Wood fire Wagyu New York Steak.

Carote. Carrots cooked over a wood fire.

Broccoli. Cooked over a wood fire.

Triple Chocolate Cloud Gelato – The base is made with Valrhona 62% Satilla Chocolate and then layered with Dark Chocolate Cream Cheese Ganache and Brookie-O Brownie Oreos! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #Valrhona #chocolate #creamcheese #ganache #icing #oreos

Caramel Fudge Marshmallow Gelato –Base is Salted Caramel made by replacing the sugar with house-made Water Caramel. Swirled with house-made Valrhona Fudge Ganache and Marshmallow Cream — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #caramel #caramelSauce #SaltedCaramel #valrhona #fudge #marshmallow

The wine lineup. Not too shabby.

Overall, this was an amazing dinner, and the Borgese’s just keep amping up the quality.

First of all, the Borgese hospitality was awesome, the house lovely, and the food absolutely incredible. Best “home cooked” meal I’ve had. Maybe ever if you restrict it to chefs cooking in their own home kitchen. Just amazing. Every dish was great. Rustic but extremely delicious style. Superb homemade pastas. My gelato was darn good too :-).

Service was handled by the youngest Borgese (teen daughter) and was better than most restaurant staff. Super friendly and you can tell they do this a lot.

Wines were, as you can, pretty darn impressive!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Gelato, Rocco Borgese, Uni, Wine

Sauvages Roccos

Nov12

Restaurant: Dinner at the Borgese’s [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: Santa Monica

Date: June 26, 2021

Cuisine: Italian influenced gourmet home cooking

Rating: Awesome

Dinner at the Borgese’s is a special house dinner in Santa Monica cooked by the stunning pro-level home chef Borgese couple. Today we break (slightly) with tradition for a Lunch at the Borgese’s — specifically a Sauvages lunch with a California Cabernet theme.

The dynamic Borgese team consists of Rocco, his lovely wife (and the main kitchen chef), and his daughter (helping out with service).

Their house has not only a wine cellar, but a cheese and meat larder!

Plus all this incredible wood fired oven set up.

We have this fabulous outside table, perfect for covid ventilation.

Chef Jenny on the left and Rocco on the right at work in the kitchen.

2004 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année. VM 94. Light, bright gold. Powerful orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by smoky lees, iodine, chamomile and buttered toast. At once fleshy and energetic, offering deeply pitched poached pear, peach pit and brioche flavors and a suave floral element. Finishes smoky and very long, with mounting spiciness and lingering floral and vanilla notes.

2005 Henriot Champagne Cuvée Hemera. JG 96. The Cuvée Hemera is Henriot’s new name for their Tête de Cuvée bottling, which had previously been known as Cuvée Enchanteleurs. This is the first vintage of the house’s top of the line bottling that has been crafted from beginning to end by Cellar Master Laurent Fresnet. The wine is a fifty-fifty blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, as is the case with their Brut Millésime, but here, only grand cru vineyards are used for the cuvée. The 2005 Cuvée Hemera was aged twelve years sur latte prior to disgorgement and a finishing dosage of five grams per liter. The bouquet is deep, pure and stunning, offering up a very refined blend of pear, apple, a touch of hazelnut, gentle smokiness, a very complex base of soil tones, fresh-baked bread and just a whisper of caraway seed in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and rock solid at the core, with impeccable focus and grip, very refined mousse and outstanding length and grip on the poised, balanced and exquisite finish. This is simply outstanding! (Drink between 2019-2060)

Are special lunch menu.

The wine list.

2018 Aubert Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard. VM 94-97. The 2018 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard is ample, dramatic and textured in the glass, with tons of volume as well as resonance. Lemon peel, pineapple, white flowers, orchard fruit and mint all flesh out in this unabashedly opulent, richly textured Chardonnay. The UV-SL is bold and beautiful to the core.

agavin: in what twisted world do Cal Chards get 94-97 but a Coche will get 89-90?

2010 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard. VM 94. A wine of notable finesse and energy, Marcassin’s 2010 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is beautifully focused throughout. Lemon oil, white flowers, orange peel and chamomile are some of the many notes that flesh out in the glass. Overall, this is a fairly restrained style for Marcassin, with richness tempered by the marginal climate of the Sonoma Coast. In this vintage, the Marcassin Vineyard Chardonnay is clearly more interesting, complex and pedigreed than the Pinot. (Drink between 2015-2022)

2014 Aubert Chardonnay Russian River.

Branzino e Vongole. Branzino and clams.

1999 Behrens & Hitchcock Cabernet Sauvignon “Ink Grade”. VM 89-91. Deep ruby. Aromas of blackberry, minerals, licorice and herbs. Big and broad in the mouth, with inky blackberry and mineral flavors. A full (15.1%), dense cabernet, finishing with chewy tannins and a note of eucalyptus. “We had a heat spell and some dehydration before the harvest,” noted Behrens, “and the sugars shot up.”

1998 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Red Rock Terrace. VM 85+. Dark red. Expressive, somewhat leafy aromas of redcurrant, strawberry and mocha, with a distinct note of vegetility. Rather pliant and fairly intense in the mouth, but with its fruit flavors compromised by a noticeable eucalyptus element. Finishes with slightly dry, building tannins.

1997 Seavey Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. VM 90. Bright ruby-red to the rim. Black fruit aromas are at once a bit roasted and peppery. On the palate, the black fruit and pepper flavors show a slightly rustic leathery component. Finishes with slightly dry, clenched tannins and some exotic berry tones. Retains good energy but this wine is not getting any fresher. My bottle the previous day at the Seavey vertical tasting showed a bit more fruit sweetness and a more satisfying finish. (Drink between 2017-2025)

1997 Fisher Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Lamb Vineyard. VM 91+. Healthy dark red-ruby. The nose conveys slightly wild suggestions of leather and andouillette but not enough to detract from the fresh aromas of cassis, black cherry, licorice, tar, violet and mint. This still shows dark fruit flavors that I would describe as primary but there’s also a savory umami quality as well as an edge of acidity that gives the middle palate a faint bitterness. Impressively energetic for 20-year-old wine but it may yet deliver more sweetness with some additional bottle aging. Finishes with granular, tongue-coating tannins, repeating notes of leather and game and very good length. Lots of flavor here in a slightly medicinal, tannic way. If this were my bottle, I’d still give it a few more years in the cellar. (Drink between 2017-2030)

Quaglia Ripiena Arrosto. Roasted stuffed Quail. Amazing, particularly the polenta with sausage.

Polenta with sausage as “extra.”

1999 Joseph Phelps Insignia. VM 95. Deep bright ruby. Captivating nose combines blackcurrant, crushed-rock minerality, licorice and violet, complemented by notes of cocoa powder, leather and earth. Densely packed and seriously concentrated, showing an almost chocolatey ripeness that’s leavened by integrated acidity. Flavors of dark berries, minerals and flowers saturate the palate and spread out on the very suave, subtly long aftertaste. There’s no easy sweetness here but the wine’s noble tannins and considerable finesse give it great appeal today. This beautiful blend should go on for many more years on its extract and balance. (Drink between 2019-2035)

1996 Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain. VM 92. Deep ruby-red. Aromas of smoky roasted plum and cherry cough drop. Full, sweet and thick, with unusual clarity of flavor for the vintage. This retains its compelling sweetness through its very long aftertaste. Lush, unaggressive tannins hit the palate quite late. A superb ’96.

1996 Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford. VM 89. Deep ruby-red. Roasted plum, currant and tobacco on the nose, along with a supersweet suggestion of crystallized red berries. Supple, ripe and pliant, with approachable dark berry and mineral flavors. Tannins are in balance with the wine fruit. Finishes with very good but not outstanding length.

1996 Peter Michael Les Pavots. VM 91+. Perfumed aromas of blueberry, kirsch and framboise, with complicating notes of mint and pencil shavings. Sweet and supple, but firm and penetrating, with sharply defined, intense flavors that are complex but unevolved. Strong acids currently clash with huge tannins. Quite dominated by its structure in the early going, but this very dry wine has the concentration of fruit to benefit from extended bottle aging.

Pasta Fatta in casa con Ragu d’Anatra. Homemade pasta with Duck Ragu.

Yarom’s pasta-less pasta.

1999 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon. VM 93+. Full red-ruby. Highly nuanced nose combines sappy black raspberry, black cherry, spicy oak, loam and menthol, plus hints of meat and maple syrup. Offers a compelling combination of sweetness and grip. The lush palate is spicy but shapely and nicely delineated; not yet complex but already exudes lovely inner-mouth perfume. Very long, broad finish features substantial tannins that coat the entire mouth and dust the teeth. Shows the hint of austerity that promises a long and graceful evolution in bottle. Should rank among the best cabernets to date from this world-class producer.

1997 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon. VM 97. I have always adored Togni’s 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate because it captures both the natural intensity of the year and the vibrancy that makes these wines so compelling. Powerful and explosive, with huge density, the 1997 hits the palate with waves of dark fruit intermingled with savory herb, charcoal, tobacco and grilled herb overtones. Even with all of its intensity, the 1997 has enough textural richness to drink for another 10-15 years, maybe more, as there is still quite a bit of structure and tannin. Hints of cedar, tobacco, crushed leaves and game add the closing shades of nuance. (Drink between 2017-2027)

1999 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon. VM 93. Bright, saturated medium ruby. Very ripe, sweet, aromatic nose combines bitter cherry, currant, chocolate, espresso, baking spices and licorice. Expansive, sweet and mouthfilling; almost shockingly large-scaled for this wine. Velvety and seamless, with ripe acids giving the wine shape. Subtle notes of currant leaf, maple syrup and game. Finishes rich and long, with sweet tannins. Seems riper and more textured than recent vintages of this wine. After 24 hours in the recorked bottle, this showed cassis and bitter chocolate flavors, an even firmer structure and compelling sweetness.

1995 Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. VM 95. Healthy medium red. Inviting aromas of red berries, spices and balsamic cedar, plus a faintly liqueur-like quality. At once silky-smooth and firmly built, conveying an impression of energy to its flavors of redcurrant, wild herbs and tobacco. Finishes with dusty but harmonious tannins. This is still remarkably youthful and gives the impression that it will continue to unwind with more time in the cellar. (Drink between 2017-2027)

Braciola di Vitello Farcita. Stuffed veal chop.

Verdure cotte a legna. Wood fired vegetables, in this case eggplant.

And mushrooms.

2005 Alois Kracher Chardonnay/Welschriesling Grande Cuvée TBA #7 Nouvelle Vague. VM 94. Nothing really sticks out in the 2005 #7 Grand Cuvée Trockenbeerenauslese Nouvelle Vague, a wine that is first and foremost about total balance. The style is rich, layered and sumptuous. Apricot jam, cloves and orange peel are supported by lovely beams of acidity. I am not sure the 2005 will improve materially from here, but it might very well keep at this gorgeous plateau for a number of years. Today, it is striking. (Drink between 2013-2023)

Torta di Mandorle with gelato by me.

Matchacchio Latte Gelato and Blue Cherry Gelato at @dinnerattheborgeses by @rocco_the_chef and his wife — the gelato was made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #AndyGavinEats #AndyGavinDrinks #torta #almonds #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #amarena #morello #cherry #blueberry #pistachio #matcha

My vague notes.

The wine lineup. Not too shabby.

Overall, this was an amazing lunch, and the Borgese’s just keep amping up the quality.

Service was handled by the youngest Borgese (teen daughter) and was better than most restaurant staff. Super friendly and you can tell they do this a lot.

Wines were, as you can, pretty darn impressive!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, California Cabernet, Gelato, lunch, Rocco Borgese, Sauvages, Wine

Silk Worm Road – Guan Dong Da Yuan

Nov08

Restaurant: Guan Dong Da Yuan

Location: 639 W Garvey Ave, Monterey Park, CA 91754. (626) 545-5555

Date: June 24 and August 1, 2021

Cuisine: North Eastern Chinese

Rating: Tasty!

On 6/24/21 Yarom and I ventured into the SGV to try out some experimental places on our vast list, the #3 spot was here. It was good enough that we came back in August with a big 2 table group to try out more dishes.

Guan Dong Da Yuan specializes in regional Chinese cuisine from the area across the bay from Korea.

The interior is fairly cute and they have a private room (not shown).

The extensive menu.

Kimchee. It is near Korea, after all.

Baloon Flower. A different kimchee-like marinated veggie. Excellent.

Hot Stone Eggs with Tofu. Very Korean and good stuff.

3 Types of Dumpling. Ron didn’t like. It thought they were workable Jaozi (boiled dumplings).

Guandong Smoked Chicken Bone.

Yanji Sweet and Sour Pork – mochi-like chewy batter that was actually pretty enjoyable.

Stir-Fried Silk Worm!

Hot Stone Beef with Vegetable.

Spicy Crunchy Chicken Cartilage. It was a boney meal!

Spicy Crispy Chicken Cartilage (different day) — pretty much Kung Pao Cartilage and tasty for it.

Eggplant with Green Pppers and Potato. Excellent as well as colorful.

Sautéed Cabbage. I love this dish.

Stone Fried Pork Slices – like a savory/salty version of Panda Express pork.

Mapo Tofu — pretty close to Sichuan style

Stone Beef with Enoki Mushroom — soft and succulent.

Korean Style Cold Noodle Dish.

Guandong Stewed Spare Ribs with Green Peppers and Rice Noodles. Interesting polenta-like cakes.

Guandong Stewed Pork Belly with Rice Noodles. Great textures.

Guandong Pork Bone. More bones (delicious).

Fried Rice.

Caramelized Sugar on Sweet Potato.

Mascarpone Coffee Crunch Gelato — A base infused with Mascarpone Cheese then blended with house-made Coffee Crunch — created by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #cheesecake #mascarpone #cheese #coffee #CoffeeCrunch #candy

Blood Orange Campari Sorbetto — Blood Oranges from Avignon with a bit of Campari — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #BloodOrange #Campari

I really liked this place as it was interesting and regional. A few of our crew who like their Chinese more boring (aka Southern Chinese only) didn’t like it at all, but they were offended by all the bones and silk worms and whatnot — for me that was part of the charm (and flavor).

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Right across the street is Sham Tsem and the famous “Hooker Motel Ballroom.”

By: agavin
Comments (1)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Chinese cuisine, Gelato, Guan Dong Da Yuan, hedonists, Lunch Quest, SGV, Wine

N/Naka on the Nose

Oct18

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: June 16, 2021

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

N/Naka served as the host location for the second of our 3 epic June “Fred” dinners, this one being themed around Coche-Dury Les Rougeots.

The empty interior. This was actually the first night that N/Naka reopened after the long lockdown closure.

Our table — before we got to it.

1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. BH 97. A distinctly reticent but elegant nose with a purity of expression that is truly impressive to experience as it’s relatively high-toned and while the yeast comes up with air, it’s relatively muted at presence, combining with intense, precise and superbly detailed and complex flavors that culminate in an explosive and wonderfully long finish. This may very well rival the sublime ’90 in time even if it’s not quite as concentrated. This is still a baby so there is absolutely no rush whatsoever.

2015 Hubert Lamy Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Cuvée Haute Densité. A rare bird!

2005 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. BH 94. A strikingly pure nose of white flower and spice aromas complements perfectly the delicious, intense and stony flavors that are wonderfully vibrant and gorgeously detailed on the transparent and equally pure finish that explodes with more minerality. This is beautifully balanced and understated with a Zen-like sense of calm. I very much like this and it’s very Perrières in character. In a word, brilliant. (Drink starting 2013)

2007 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. VM 94+. Bright pale yellow. Soft citrus fruits and crushed rock on the musky, slightly reduced nose. Rich, perfumed and tightly coiled, with a terrific core of acidity intensifying the orange, floral and mineral flavors. Offers compelling cut and concentration but this infant will require several years of aging. Wonderfully refined Perrieres of grand cru class.

1993 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. 94 points. Signature coche gunflint, popcorn, dried extract, and smoked yellow fruit on the nose and palate. While the mid-palate did not have lots of substance, the flinty and popcorn-ish palate more than offset that shortfall. With the fresh acidity in the backdrop, the wine stayed energetic and interesting throughout dinner.

1996 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 94+. Complex, lively aromas of lime, minerals and vanilla. Structured and almost shockingly intense; great material here. A step up from the ’97 in density. Extremely fresh and vibrant. A tactile, mouthfilling wine to drink and to eat. Palate-staining finish. I kept raising my score as I came back for more.

2000 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. BH 93. A completely different expression than any of the foregoing wines, which is interesting since the vineyard abuts Chevalières. This is classic Meursault in style with round, rich, generous, “warm” fruit and flavors, offering toasted nut and butter aromas plus fresh sliced peach, apricot and apple scents but gorgeously complex, intense, refined and beautifully precise flavors of terrific focus and cut. But it is the superb depth on the finish that really set this apart and this delivers such quality that it is almost a match for the Perrières, a compliment in anyone’s book. Simply beautiful wine that has just now arrived at its apogee though it should be capable of holding here for at least a decade. Tasted several times with consistent notes. (Drink between 2008-2010)

2008 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 92+. Classic aromas of lemon, lime, minerals, hazelnut and grilled almond; smells rich in dry extract. Then dense and superconcentrated, with terrific inner-mouth energy to the flavors of peach, orange blossom, lemon and crushed stone. Time-capsule Meursault, finishing with superb length. This too should age very well.

1972 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes!

Our menu.

Starter Tea.

Sakizuke. Uni, Cauliflower Puree, Carrot Coconut Ice, Trout Roe, Nori Sable.

Zensai. Uni, Eggplant Dashi, Kabocha Roll, Oyster Lime, Flounder Hasamiage, Wagyu Beef Roll, Cucumber, Cauliflower, Carrot, Burnt Chickepea and Miso Puree.

Uni.

Wagyu Beef Roll.

Cucumber, Cauliflower, Carrot, Burnt Chickepea and Miso Puree.

Eggplant Dashi.

Oyster Lime.

Kabocha Roll.

Flounder Hasamiage.

Modern Zukuri. Japanese Fluke, California Nori, Pistachio.

Owan. Hope Ranch Mussel, Summer Squash, Citrus Fern.

Otsukuri. Traditional Sashimi.

Yakimono. Tasmanian Sea Trout, Artichoke, Preserved Meyer Lemon.

Mushimono. Tomato, Lobster Shinjo, Tomato and Fennel Mochi.

Shiizakana. Spaghetti, Abalone, Picked Cod Roe, Truffles.

Niku. A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Beef, Baby Corn.

Sunomono. Nopales, Golden Kiwi, Cucumber, Aloe, Chia Seeds.

Yuzu juice intermezzo.

Pickled Ginger.

Miso soup with shrimp heads.

Nigiri sushi flight 1.

Nigiri sushi flight 2.

Blue crab handroll.

Mizumono. Lychee Sorbet, Shiso Lime Granita. Super bright and delicious flavors with a really nice textural contrast.

Mizumono. Peaches, Caramelized Pastry, Lavender Honey Ice-Cream, Hojicha Jelly.

Petite Fours.

So pretty!

Roasted green tea.

Burnt Basque Cheesecake Gelato — Milk steeped with Tahitian Vanilla Beans and Valencia Orange Peels and then blended with Cream-cheese and Egg Yolks, layered with house made “burnt” Caramel and topped with house-made Caramel Brittle, finished with the torch! — created by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #lemongrass #ginger #CremeBrûlée #basque #cheesecake #caramel #brittle #orange

Matchacchio Latte Gelato — Ceremonial Matcha Green Tea and Sicilian Pistacchio di Bronte DOP gelato base. I was skeptical the first time I made it, but it turned out to be a lovely flavor. And the green is all natural! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #pistacchio #bronte #matcha #GreenTea #Sicily

Vietnamese Hazelnut Coffee Gelato — Cafe du Monde coffee milk with Piedmontese Hazelnut Paste swirled with Sweetened Condensed Milk — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #vietnameseCoffee #coffee #CafeduMonde #SweetenedCondensedMilk #hazelnut

A little take home snack for the morning.

Post dinner lethargy.

The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese. N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular (here for the first, here for the second, here for the third). Plus we even did an amazing all foie gras meal here once. The place keeps getting better and better. This is thrice wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. At N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Coming back to N/Naka after the pandemic I thought they were really firing on all cylinders. This was the best meal I’ve had there since the incredible Foie meal. I think her sushi has gone from “okay” to “great” and with regard to other dishes she has toned down a bit of the “theatrics” slightly but really upped the flavor balance and intensity. There weren’t some of the more interactive dishes of years past, like cooking your own item on hot stones, but the cooking was even more on point.

Service is also spectacular, highlighted all the more by the extremely low understaffed standard currently found in LA.

And what can we say about the wines? Awesome labels, awesome wines. All the coches were flawless, although the 93 was my favorite. So good!

Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

By: agavin
Comments (1)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Champagne, Coche Dury, Foodie Club, Gelato, Japanese cuisine, Les Rougeots, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, Sushi, Wine

Power Providence

Oct15

Restaurant: Providence [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7]

Location: 5955 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 460-4170

Date: June 15, 2021

Cuisine: Cal French

Rating: Best meal I’ve had at Providence

I usually make it to Providence about once a year, and so we return with the Foodie Club for a small, epic main dining room. After a long time off (for the pandemic) the core gang of myself, Erick, and Fred met up, joined by Michael Z wanted to really up the game and we focused on the awesome white Burgundy wines from d’Auvenay and Coche-Dury.

The space used to be Patina in the 90s.

While the colors are different, Providence still looks a lot like Patina to me — as the layout is basically the same.

This is the view from the chef’s special tasting room — adjacent to the kitchen in it’s own little nook.

Our special menu tonight.

One of the few places in town that still has elegant table wares.

2000 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières. BH 95. Very Puligny in style with discreet white flower, pear and apple aromas with flavors that are so powerful that the palate experiences them in waves as they roll from the mid-palate to a thundering, top grand cru finish. Yet this is by no means monolithic as there is detail and subtle gradations of wet rocks, minerals, earth and an indefinable crystalline essence. I literally had to pause for a minute due to palate fatigue as this both stains and saturates the palate yet it remains perfectly balanced. For a premier cru, this is a veritable tour de force! A brilliant wine. (Drink between 2008-2020)

2000 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets. BH 93. This has now peaked and is drinking beautifully with a fully mature nose of honeysuckle, peach, apricot and very subtle spice notes that can also be found on the enveloping flavors that possess a wonderfully seductive mouth feel and ample dry extract that both completely buffers the still firm acid spine and coats the palate on the long, lingering and strikingly perfumed if ever-so-slightly warm finish. One character that Coche seems to consistently be able to achieve is how his wines are at once generous yet retain a fine sense of focus and precision and this wine certainly displays this. Lovely stuff that is perfect now. Tasted thrice with consistent notes. (Drink starting 2016)

1999 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Meursault Les Narvaux. VM 92. At nearly twenty years of age the 1999 Meursault Les Narvaux is just starting to enter its early plateau of maturity now! Exuberant and powerful, the 1999 possesses off the charts intensity and a level of pure class that is far beyond the realm of most village crus. Time in bottle has started to bring out slightly tropical overtones that add complexity to the yellow orchard fruit character. Readers lucky enough to own it can look forward to another 20 years of exceptional drinking. (Drink between 2018-2038)

2005 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières. VM 96. The 2005 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a multidimensional bouquet that delivers intense honeycomb and brioche intertwined through the mineral-rich citrus fruit. The palate displays a perfect line of acidity, a brilliantly poised and tensile Folatières from Lalou Bize-Leroy that unlike the 1999 just builds and builds towards a focused and electrifying finish that shimmers with energy. Frankly, I cannot think of many Puligny Premier Crus that have surpassed this astonishing wine. 897 bottles produced. Tasted at Carré des Feuillants restaurant in Paris. (Drink between 2018-2038)

From my cellar: 2009 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Meursault Les Narvaux. 95 points. Rich quince, citrus, popcorn, crème brûlée, and minerals galore backed by abundant acidity. Fantastic wine, and will last a long time.

An amuse of crisp with seafood.

And amuse of toro tartare.

A third amuse of shellfish “tart”.

The final amuse of scallop with contrasting fruit.

With a bit of sauce. Super zingy and delicious.

Bald Point Oyster. Gently warmed, with golden kaluga caviar.

Tai Sashimi. Seville sour orange, rosemary, ogo.

Uni Egg. Sea urchin, champagne beurre blanc, brioche croutons.
Maine Lobster. Favas, daikon, ramps.

Special bread.

And French butter with salt.

Farfalle. Box and dungeness crab, uni, geoduck, basil. Amazing flavors with a strong Thai basil character.

Black Cod. Black truffle, dutch white and green asparagus.

Australian Black Winter Truffle. Porcini Cannelloni.

Australian Black Winter Truffle.

All put together it was spectacular.

A5 Wagyu. Potato, morel, watercress, bordelaise.

Fried Wagyu lump, amazing.

Rhubarb, citrus, almond.
With sauce and very refreshing.

House-made Hawaiian Chocolate. Chocolate gelato, whiskey.

Sauce for the chocolate.

Tea.

Petite Fours. I love some good fancy candies.

This was by far the best main dining room and probably the best Providence meal I’ve ever had. They had just recently reopened post-lockdown and had clearly spent the time well retooling the menu. Service was exceptional as well which was very nice, particularly in contrast with so many “middle end” places that are short staffed right now.

There was a little take home goodie too, but I forgot to photo it.

For more LA dining reviews click here,

By: agavin
Comments (2)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Burgundy, coche, Coche Dury, d'Auvenay, Foodie Club, Providence, Seafood, White Burgundy, Wine

Birdie G Birthday

Oct08

Restaurant: Birdie G’s

Location: 2421 Michigan Ave, Santa Monica, CA 90404. (310) 310-3616

Date: June 11, 2021

Cuisine: Modern Deli?

Rating: Small menu but tasty

I had intended to go to Birdie G’s sometime before the pandemic but it never happened. So, when looking for a place to go with my wife on my birthday (al fresco) we decided to check it out.

They have a very interesting modern look that fits in with the Bergamot Station vibe (that’s where they’re locate, just across the street from my old haunt at Naughty Dog).

Given some of my giant birthday blowouts of previous years, this was kinda minimal, but we had a nice time.

The small menu reinterprets classic Jewish and deli dishes in a new way.

Lamely, particularly given that it was my birthday, I forgot my wine bag at home and so had to buy this off the list. I hate lists but found something tolerable. At least 2014 is a great White Burg year.

2014 Jean et Sébastien Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses. VM 92-95. Very pale color. Discreet, high-pitched aromas of lemon zest, wet stone and lavender. Delivers the energy and definition of the vintage in spades, conveying superb density to its citrus fruit, floral and mineral flavors. Most impressive today on the very long, mineral-driven aftertaste, which perfumes the mouth with white flowers. With its penetrating vinosity, this wine will need patience.

Badger flame beets, smoked trout roe & deli flavors.

The Relish Tray. Fresh, pickled, fermented & marinated vegetables with California dip. I’ve never seen some of these vegetables, but I do like pickles and the dip was great, so I really enjoyed the fresh an healthy crunch going on here.

Nduja & Strawberry Cavatelli, Calabrian chili & Fennel Pollen. Not sure what’s so deli here, but it was pretty tasty.

Noodle kugel. Baked casserole of homemade egg noodles, ricotta, applesauce, walnuts & sage brown butter.

Lamb “A la Saless”, Persian Spices. Interesting. The rice underneath was crispy.

The dessert menu.

“World Famous” Rose Petal Pie. Strawberry, raspberry, hibiscus, rose & a pretzel crust. The texture was great and I enjoyed the complex sweet and aromatic flavor, but it was too mild for my taste. I wanted the same flavor turned up 10x!

Overall, I was impressed by Birdie G’s. The menu is too small, and not every dish was perfect, but the atmosphere was very nice and I was largely impressed by the flavors.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: al fresco, Birdie G, birthday, Jewish Food, Wine

Marino al Fresco

Oct01

Restaurant: Marino Ristorante [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 6001 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 466-8812

Date: June 3, 2021

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Superb

Tonight I return to a favorite haunt.

The amazing chef/owner Sal Marino cooks at his original family location, venerable Marino Ristorante on Melrose and continues to whip up his unique blend of amazing modern Italian. And if anything, he’s gotten even better.

Post pandemic they’ve turned the parking lot into a cute patio.

We begin with a bit of white Burg because the bringer of champagne is fashionably late. But the quality of their champ makes up for it!

2012 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 93. Here the nose is aromatically similar to the Pucelles but with even better complexity and elegance. There is fine mid-palate density to the refined and marvelously intense medium-bodied flavors that possess the same fine complexity on the beautifully well-balanced and highly persistent finale. This is very Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet in the sense that it allies finesse and grace with power. (Drink starting 2019)

Our table. Just ignore the cinder block in the distance :-).

2007 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs. VM 97+. The 2007 Dom Ruinart is the first vintage made entirely by Chef de Caves Frédéric Panaïotis, which shows just how long the production cycle is in Champagne. A striking, tightly-coiled wine, the 2007 Dom Ruinart will leave readers week at the knees. In this vintage, Panaïotis took Dom Ruinart, which has traditionally relied on a relatively high percentage of Chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims and tilted the balance to 75% Côtes des Blancs and 25% Montagne de Reims fruit. As a result, the 2007 is much more chiseled and steely than is the norm. The citrus, slate, crushed rock, white pepper, mint and floral notes really sizzle in this powerful, dramatically rich Champagne, with bright saline notes that add freshness and vivacity to the striking finish. The 2007 is a stunning Champagne by any measure. Although it is very early, the 2007 has the potential to go down as one of the great Dom Ruinarts. It is every bit that special. Dosage is under 5 grams per liter, a pretty striking change from the 2006, which was closer to 10. Readers who can grab the 2007 won’t want to miss it. (Drink between 2018-2048)

2006 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé. VM 97+. The 2006 Dom Pérignon Rosé is every bit as captivating as it was last year, maybe even more so. At times powerful, but in other moments finessed, the 2006 constantly changes in the glass, revealing a different shade of its personality with every taste. Perhaps most importantly, the 2006 seems to have gained a level of precision and pure sophistication it did not show last year, when it was quite a bit less put together. Back then, the 2006 was a wine of tremendous potential; today that potential is starting to be realized. Quite simply, the 2006 Dom Pérignon Rosé is a magical Champagne. Don’t miss it. (Drink between 2020-2046)

PEACH & BURRATA. Regier Farms yellow peaches, burrata, wild baby arugula.

From my cellar: 2007 Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. VM 93. Bright golden-tinged straw. Complex nose of apricot, quince, flint and mint. Dense, suave and juicy, with a multilayered quality to its flinty-mineral and orchard fruit flavors. The note of diesel fuel emerges again on the long, magically mouthcoating but vibrant back end. One of the best Trebbiano d’Abruzzo’s I have memory of from Pepe. This older Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is a specific release for the US and other international markets. (Drink between 2016-2026)

agavin: unfortunately this had a strong turpentine quality that was not very enjoyable.
2005 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes. BH 94. A beautifully elegant and highly complex nose of extract of dark berry fruit that is both elegant and complex serves as a dramatic introduction to the big-bodied, indeed even robust flavors that are firm, dense and incredibly concentrated, all wrapped in a palate drenching finish that just oozes dry extract and gives a velvety texture to the unbelievably long finale. This is a wonderfully gifted wine that has everything it needs to age gracefully for multiple decades and it will need 12 to 15 years in a cool cellar to really hit its stride. This too is one of those ‘wow’ wines. (Drink starting 2017)

ZUCCHINI BLOSSOM. ricotta & marjoram filled zucchini blossoms.

From my cellar: 2001 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. JG 94+. The 2001 vintage is one of the recent favorites of Signor Pepe, and he is convinced that this will be a classic in the fullness of time. The bouquet is still quite primary in its blend of dark berries, black cherries, Cuban cigars, a bit of cherry pits, dark soil, botanicals and a nice touch of nutskin in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite a powerful young vintage of the Pepe Montepulciano, with a rock solid core of fruit, lovely, nascent complexity, chewy tannins and excellent length and grip on the focused and still quite youthful finish. Today, the fine 2003 accessible, but with sufficient bottle age, the 2001 is going to be a reference point vintage of this great wine. (Drink between 2020-2050)

agavin: the red Pepe, however, was great!

MACCHERONCINI RABBIT. homemade pasta, rabbit ragout.

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1995 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo. VM 95. Gaja’s 1995 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo is potent and virile to the core. A modern-day version of the 1974, the 1995 hits the palate with a rush of fruit enveloped by firm, powerful tannins. The style is frank, direct and intense, with fabulous richness but also some elements of rusticity. The 1995 will drink well for another 10-15 years. (Drink between 2014-2024)

1996 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sorì Tildìn. VM 96. The Sorì Tildìn is one of the best wines in this retrospective of Gaja’s 1996s. Sweet floral notes, mint and sweet red cherries give the 1996 its distinctive lifted, perfumed personality, qualities that are enhanced by the wine’s natural acidity. Fresh, aromatically open and also quite energetic, Sorì Tildìn is distinguished by its detail and nuance. Think of a sketch done in fine pencil. (Drink between 2016-2036)

PAPPARDELLE BOLOGNESE. 3hr beef, pork and veal meat sauce.

2004 Tua Rita Redigaffi Toscana IGT. VM 93. The inky-colored 2004 Redigaffi, 100% Merlot aged for 16 months in new oak, offers expressive, nuanced aromatics along with sensations of richly-textured blue and black jammy fruit, minerals, mint, chocolate, spices and sweet toasted oak on big, powerful frame with notable underlying structure and a warm, resonating finish. Although it has enough structure and acidity to drink well for another decade or so, I enjoy Redigaffi most in its youth. (Drink between 2013-2016)

2005 Tua Rita Redigaffi Toscana IGT. VM 92. The 2005 Redigaffi will delight Tua Rita fans. Large, ample and broad on the palate, the 2005 possesses remarkable depth and intensity within the context of the year. Mocha, torrefaction, plum, smoke, brown spices and leather meld together in a big, opulent wine. All things considered, the 2005 has held up well, but signs of oxidation are setting in. Any remaining bottles need to be enjoyed over the next few years. (Drink between 2015-2018)

Pork stew with onions and mashed potatoes. Super flavorful and delicious.

1997 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia. VM 94. The 1997 Ornellaia is another wine that is in the zone today. Soft, sensual and inviting, the 1997 has aged gracefully and also maintained a good deal of freshness as well. Wild flowers, spice, mint and red stone fruit continue to open up as this sumptuous wine fleshes out in the glass. (Drink between 2016-2031)

2015 Sine Qua Non Syrah Trouver l’Arene. VM 97. A real head-turner, the 2015 Syrah Trouver l’Arène is every bit as compelling from bottle as it was from barrel. Rich, sumptuous and exquisitely layered, the 2015 possesses magnificent concentration as it builds in the glass. Inky dark blue/purplish berry fruit, graphite, smoke, licorice and spice are some of the many nuances that develop in an arrestingly beautiful, vivid Syrah that will thrill those fortunate enough to find it. The blend is 80.5% Syrah, 7% Petite Sirah, 7% Mourvedre, 2% Grenache and 3.5% Viognier, done with 34% whole clusters and aged for 22 months in 48% new oak. (Drink between 2020-2035)

Sal, who was out at a catering event, returns just in time to bring in the meat!

And a closeup.

Porterhouse with mushroom sauce and brussels sprouts.

Vietnamese Hazelnut Coffee Gelato — Cafe du Monde coffee milk with Piedmontese Hazelnut Paste swirled with Sweetened Condensed Milk — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #vietnameseCoffee #coffee #CafeduMonde #SweetenedCondensedMilk #hazelnut

Chocolate Peanut Cream – a base made from 100% Valrhona Chocolate and South American Peanuts layered with house-made Peanut Butter Cream Cheese “Cream” — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #chocolate #valrhona #peanuts #icing #PeanutButter #reeses

The wine lineup.

Another great dinner. I really like the al fresco dining. Food was good, but I’ve had more elaborate and interesting meals from Sal. Tonight he was out for most of the evening, we didn’t have any of his specialties (like crudo and gazpacho), and more materially the person organizing the dinner has a more “modest” ordering sensibility than I do. Check out this meal I put together with Sal by contrast. He’s a fabulous chef when you let him go all out. The stand out for me tonight was the pork stew — which was pretty incredible actually.

Wines were pretty excellent too (except for my white Pepe).

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or experience my gluttonous month-long food trips through Italy.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Gelato, hedonists, Italian cuisine, Marinos, pasta, Pepe, Sal Marino, Wine

Yasu a Year Yater

Sep24

Restaurant: Yasu [1, 2]

Location: 265 S Robertson Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90211. (424) 355-0257

Date: May 27, 2021

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi

Rating: Awesome ingredients and technique. One of the best sushi places we’ve found in a while

Back right before lockdown Foodie Club co-founder Erick and I — along with last minute addition Jeffrey — hit up Yasu, a then new sushi bar.

We had a great time and meal and so eagerly decided to return once it was viable again. And with dinner we begin a new dinner series, one I’ve nicknamed Sushi Series, that explores some of the best sushi and kaiseki places in LA.
This photo shows our 2020 visit, but in early summer 2021 no one was allowed to sit at the sushi bar and so we were seated at a table instead (to the left, against the wall).

The restaurant “raison d’etre.”

Paul brought: 1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. JG 98. I had not drunk a bottle of the 1996 Krug in several years, as I had deemed the wine still in climbing mode and I am not generally in the business of drinking Krug before its time. But, a friend recently opened a bottle and I was very impressed with how the wine is evolving in the bottle since its release. The bouquet is now starting to show some lovely secondary layering of complexity in its blend of apple, peach, a touch of sweet walnut, patissière, a refined base of minerality, caraway seed and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine flavors on the attack echo the nose nicely, with the wine’s full-bodied format sporting excellent depth at the core, still plenty of the vintage’s snappy acidity, great focus and grip and a very, very long and utterly refined finish. Though this remains quite racy structurally, I really like the point it has reached in terms of aromatic and flavor complexity and it is really not a crime to be opening bottles up at this point in its evolution, though it still has room to grow with further bottle age. A great, great vintage of Krug. (Drink between 2019-2060)

2001 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 95. Incredibly beautiful and elegant aromas of white flower and citrus softly introduce steely, gorgeously pure and delineated medium full flavors that seem as though they’re chiseled directly from solid rock. This is much more mineral driven than the typical Bâtard, and blind I would have mistaken it for a classically styled Chevalier. There is plenty of punch and racy supporting acidity plus simply knockout length. Of all these impressive attributes though, it’s the stunning purity and overall harmony of expression that make this one of the wines of the vintage. Interestingly, this is not a dramatic wine in terms of sheer size and weight but the focus and sneaky length make this a wine that is impossible not to be struck by its intensity. In short, this is one of the best examples of young Bâtard that I have ever had and one that will age for at least a decade. Don’t miss it! (Drink starting 2009)

From my cellar: 2016 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères. VM 92. (Roulot picked these hillside vines on the first day of his harvest; aged in one-third new, one-third once-used and one-third twice-used barrels): Bright, light yellow. Inviting musky aromas of yellow peach and hazelnut. Intensely flavored and sweet, with harmonious acidity energizing the flavors of lemon, orange oil and spices. Finishes suave, savory and aromatic, with surprising energy. The Charmes possesses more grip but this wine is more charming today. A very good choice of harvest date here! The first vintage for this wine was 2011, and since 2015 the estate has begun to reap the benefits of the work it has done in these vines, which were planted in the 1950s, the 1980s and around 2000, according to Eric Baudin. (Drink between 2021-2029)

2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. VM 96. Lafon’s 2010 Meursault Perrières 1er Cru is simply breathtaking, the sort of wine we all dream of when we put a few bottles away in the cellar. I bought the 2010s on release in Burgundy and have tasted them together only once since then, when a friend opened the Goutte d’Or, Charmes, Perrières and Genevrières about five years ago. The wines were spectacular on that night. The 2010 Charmes was fabulous last fall, so I had high hopes. Upon first opening, the 2010 is very tight. The color is perfect, though. Two thousand ten is a vintage with lower-than-average yields, but relatively high levels of both ripeness and acidity. There is obviously a lot of wine here. I have never been a huge fan of decanting reds, except to remove sediment, but as I have gotten older, my preference is to nearly always decant whites. Time in the decanter releases a whole range of Perrières signatures – lemon confit, orchard fruit, mint, white pepper, flowers and a hint of reduction – all gently softened by the slow passage of time. More than anything else, though, I love the wine’s energy and tension. This is classic Perrières. There were a lot of wines on the table, so we did not finish the 2010. I poured the rest of the wine back in the bottle and tasted it the next day. There was no degradation at all of color, while the wine itself was even better. More aromatic, more vibrant, more finely cut and more Perrières. This is why we buy and cellar wines…for moments like these. Readers who own well-stored bottles of the 2010 are in for a spectacular drinking experience. I can’t wait to taste the 2010 again in another few years’ time. Bravo! (Drink between 2020-2030)

2010 Domaine Jacques Prieur Montrachet. BH 94-96. This is ever-so-slightly riper than the Chevalier and a bit more aromatically complex as well if not more elegant. There is outstanding richness, volume, muscle and unconcealed power to the large-scaled heavy-weight flavors that somehow manage to avoid any sense of undue ponderousness before culminating in a massively long finish that is almost chewy and tannic. This will require plenty of bottle age but it should be great in time. (Drink starting 2022)

From my cellar: 2009 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur. BH 94. A much more reserved nose of fresh, cool and restrained green fruit, sea breeze and wet stone aromas precedes detailed, minerally and impeccably well-balanced and gorgeously persistent flavors that are Zen-like in their sense of harmony. There is a real sense of energy and flat out terrific length. (Drink starting 2016)

Sashimi. “Spanish” Mackerel (from Japan), Hokkaido Scallop and Uni, Snow Crab.

Because we were at the table, we received our sushi in pairs (two types) each, which isn’t bad for sushi at the table — although at the bar is always preferable for that minimum time form hand clap to mouth.

Shima Aji.

Goldeneye snapper. A touch of char.

Pair 2.

Firefly squid with a touch of miso paste.

Baby sea bream.

Pair 3.

Japanese Taco (octopus).

Skipjack, seared.

Pair 4.

Hokkaido Uni.

Sea perch.

Red miso with fish bone dashi.

A trio of tuna, all from the same fish.

Lean part of the tuna from near the backbone.

chu toro.

o toro!

Another pair.

Baby aiyu.

River trout (fresh water).

Toro and Ikura.

Anago Japanese Sea Eel and Tamago with fish dashi.

Another pair.

Hokkaido Scallop.

Amberjack.

Seared otoro with uni.

Final pair.

Aji (horse mackerel).

striped jack.

Yuzu sorbetto. Very refreshing, with that slightly icy Japanese sorbetto texture.

Overall, this was some absolutely first rate sushi. I’d call it modern traditional in style. It’s not “newfangled” at all with ponzu or very many toppings. Instead it showcases first rate seafood from all around the world, each treated delicately but with great respect in a way that really brings out the flavors. This is my favorite type of sushi as it’s very Japanese and extremely “pure” in its expression of the seafood. Besides the awesome eats, the service was really really nice and friendly. The chef was very chatty and our young (to me) server was fabulous as well. Of course our Champ and Burgundy went great too. We will try to go back, although there is a rumor that he doesn’t want outside wine anymore — which will of course knock this out of our rotation.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or for more Sushi Series dinners, click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Champagne, Foodie Club, Sushi Series, White Burgundy, Wine, Yasu

Post OOToro

Sep03

Restaurant: OOToro [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7]

Location: 1569 Fairway Dr, Walnut, CA 91789. (909) 598-8299

Date: May 22, 2021

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi (with slight nod to China)

Rating: Ends of the earth, but very good

Chef Kaz of Totoraku, an occasional hedonist, sent us far east to this Sushi restaurant in 2016 and it was such a fun time that we had to return again for a sixth visit — it’s now become a twice a year thing. This is my first return since the pandemic — although some in the group went once in the middle for a meal that was supposedly not quite up to snuff.

And by far east I mean REALLY REALLY far east — to Walnut California. 40+ miles from my house. 20 miles past Alhambra (which most people consider to far to drive for food). It took an hour and twenty minutes on a Saturday night!

The slick looking location is in the heart of the affluent Chinese American San Gabriel Valley. But yes, it’s Japan, if perhaps catering to Chinese taste. This photo was shot at about 10pm after everyone else had left.

Here is the private room — the only way to go.

2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. VM 99. The 2008 Cristal is one of the most complete, most dazzling Champagnes I have ever tasted. A stunning wine from any and all perspectives, the 2008 simply has it all. Spherical in construction, with superb persistence. The 2008 takes hold of all the senses and never gives up. One of the many things that makes the 2008 special is a combination of ripe fruit and bright, piercing acidity. Marzipan, lemon confit, dried flowers and orchard fruit all build into the explosive, resonant finish. “We learned from the mistakes of 1996, when we picked more on acid than ripeness, as was the norm in Champagne back then” Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon told me recently. “In 1996, the best fruit turned out to be the last picks, where the fruit was physiologically ripe. Today, we aim to pick all our fruit with that criteria.” (Drink between 2020-2050)

Caviar, scallop, and sulf clam “salad”.

2015 Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast. VM 94. The 2015 Blanc de Blancs Charles Heintz Vineyard from Michael Cruse’s Ultramarine is a rich, powerful wine. Orange peel, almond, chamomile, butter and tropical overtones give the 2015 a good bit of raciness to play off its creamy, ample frame. The 2015 is overt and quite rich, with tons of the breadth that make Charles Heintz wines so distinctive. The radiance of the year really comes through nicely. Observant readers will note the 1% Pinot Noir listed in the blend; in 2015, the topping wine used was Pinot. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. (Drink between 2020-2025)

agavin: Eric, who brought this tried to make the case that this is in league with real Champagne. I was not convinced. Far from it. Basically barely better than a Mumm’s Sparkling wine. Only Champagne does Champagne right! And it’s the price of a Comtes or Grand Cuvee!

Edamame Tofu with Hokkaido Uni and Dill — awesome little combo.
From my cellar: 2007 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut. VM 97. The 2007 Comtes de Champagne Rosé is a total knock-out. Racy and exuberant in the glass, the 2007 wraps around the palate with stunning textural depth and resonance. The 15% still Pinot adds structure and persistence to a creamy, inviting Rosé Champagne that will leave readers weak at the knees. Hints of rose petal, dried cherry, cinnamon and dried flowers meld into the sublime finish. This is about as good as it gets. Wow! (Drink between 2018-2038)

Chu toro and otoro sashimi. These tasted as good as they look.

2000 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. BH 96. A wonderfully layered and nuanced nose features an intense yeasty character to the maturing fruit that displays interesting phenolic characters, in particular petrol, along with aromas of apple, pear and soft citrus hints. In contrast to the nascent maturity expressed by the nose the flavor profile is still tight and backward with a genuinely gorgeous texture, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent and highly complex finish. For my taste the 2000 Brut is at an inflection point as the nose does offer enough maturity so that it’s really quite pretty whereas the palate impression is substantially younger. As such it really just depends on how you prefer your Champagne because I suspect that the nose will be very mature by the time the still very youthful flavors attain their majority. For my taste preferences it would be no vinous crime to begin enjoying this now but be aware that this will age for a very long time. The best approach is probably to buy 6, or even 12, bottles and enjoy them over a longer period of time. (Drink starting 2014)

Baby peach, fish cake, mollusk, abalone, baby squid, shrimp.

Kutamoto oysters with uni and ikura.

Toro tartar on toasted baguette.

The champagne lineup.

2004 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Chapelot. BH 91. Extremely generous wood treatment that includes toast, vanilla and oak spice frames ripe floral and white peach aromas and rich, full and sweet flavors that have added lift from the citrus-infused finish that displays racy acidity. This is an impressive wine but it’s not really a Raveneau-styled wine and it’s certainly carrying more wood than I can personally warm up to. Still, this is a wine of obvious quality. (Drink starting 2010)

Goldeye snapper with yuzu.

2015 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux. BH 91. An elegant and pure nose is notably ripe but evidences ample classic Chablis aromas that include pear, white flower and tidal pool hints that are also trimmed in enough wood and menthol characters to warrant noting them. The rich and vibrant flavors possess good volume and muscularity before concluding in a clean, dry and mildly austere if slightly warmer finish. Like the Montée de Tonnerre this is an excellent 2015 1er and worth considering – plus it should age well. (Drink starting 2022)

Ruby snapper, charred.

J & B generously brought: 2007 Coche-Dury Meursault. VM 92. Bright, pale yellow. Tangy aromas of orange, peach and spices. Broad and lively, with intense fruit lifted by a near-perfect sugar/acid balance. Finishes with excellent cut. This is awfully good for a wine from seven-year-old vines.

Santa Barbara Spot Prawn.

Kama Toro — even better than o-toro.

From my cellar: 2008 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles. BH 93. A textbook Pucelles nose of honeysuckle and citrus is trimmed in a discreet application of oak and a trace of exotic fruit, neither of which continue over to the delicious, round and quite generous medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent depth on the focused and unusually powerful finish. There is an ample amount of underlying tension that adds relief to the otherwise densely concentrated dry exact. This is quite simply terrific and while there is good power, the ’08 Pucelles remains a wine of finesse. (Drink starting 2016)

Uni Chawanmushi.

Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard. Can never read the darn year on these bottles.

Halibut with shiso.

2002 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux. VM 93. Bright medium red, with little sign of amber. Expressive aromas of redcurrant, cinnamon, mocha, leather and earth, with complicating ferrous notes of iron and tobacco. Wonderfully silky and fine-grained, showing lovely class and lift to its red fruit and spice flavors. Not a powerhouse but remarkably suave and smooth for Pommard. Really rises and lingers on the highly aromatic finish. Still on an upswing. (Drink between 2018-2028)

Chu toro and otoro sushi.

Seared toro sushi.

King Crab with a bit of sunomono.

2009 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays. BH 93. An intensely floral and spicy nose that is wonderfully elegant and admirably pure speaks of red currant, blue berry, game, smoke and warm earth. The silky-textured, precise and mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors possess copious extract that does a fine job of buffering the very firm tannins and allowing for perfect balance on the mouth coating and impressively persistent finish. A seductive and relatively accessible Clos des Lambrays that should be approachable with only a decade of cellar time yet last for 25 to 40 years. (Drink starting 2021)

A5 Wagyu with potatoes.

Seafood tempura.

Shrimp head miso soup.

Mango cheesecake.

Thai Red Curry Sorbetto — I made a version of this in 2017 and it was a dismal failure, but haunted me since and so this one is redemptive. Made a (no salt) red curry paste from scratch (chilies, lemongrass, galangal, cilantro roots, kaffir lime leaves, garlic, Asian shallots etc) and then cooked it into a pure Thai Coconut Milk base. Sweet and Spicy! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto#Thai #red #curry #spicy

Buko Pandan Gelato — Infused the milk with fresh Pandan Leaves and then crafted it into a dairy coconut base as my take on the Filipino favorite. Unusual and soothing. — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #buko #pandan #coconut

Hpnotiq Blue Hawaiian Sorbetto — like a frozen cocktail — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Thai Coconut Milk, Pineapple, Lime, and Hpnotiq liqueur –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #Hpnotiq #BlueHawaiian #pineapple #coconut #lime

The full wine lineup.

Yarom scaring the waitresses.

Overall, OOToro — while always good — showed again that the private room is really the way to go. This was a great meal and much more subtle and sophisticated than some of the front room fare. Really great stuff — although we should have gotten the largest omakase for max variety, but even one down I was more than full (mostly because I ordered a couple extra tempura plates). The kitchen tonight was as good as ever despite the pandemic, however, we didn’t have a few of the more interesting items like the shabu shabu or tuna collar. Gotta get them to do the big one some time!

For more LA dining reviews click here,

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Champagne, fish, Gelato, hedonists, ootoro, Sushi, walnut california, Wine

Return to Paul Wools

Aug27

Restaurant: Teresa Montana [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: Flintridge

Date: May 25, 2021

Cuisine: New American

Today’s Sauvages lunch is a lunch in honor of late Co-Poobah Steve Levin. It’s graciously hosted by Paul at at his beautiful home in Flintridge. This event is held outdoors in memory of the Zinfandel barbecues that Steve would hold for our group every summer at his home (it being Paul’s idea to maintain this fine tradition). To that end, we always enjoy a few Zinfandels at this lunch in addition to the theme wines for the lunch. The annual lunches at Paul’s home always rate very high on the scales for ambiance, camaraderie and food quality.

The main wine theme has changed a bit this year and instead of pure Grenache we have pivoted to a tour of some of the best Spanish wines to go along with Spanish food by chef Teresa Montana. Our very own Sandy Taylor provided Somm duties with style.

This California style building isn’t the house itself, but the amazing top of the integrated cellar.

Trying to give you a sense of the mid century space.

This year (2021), we sat on the other side of the main house at a single large table.

Here the chef can be seem working the kitchen.

Our special menu for the day.

The cart du vin.

2008 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut Vintage. JG 94+. The 2008 Veuve Clicquot Brut Millésime is the first bottling here to include five percent barrel-fermented vins clairs since the estate transitioned away from foudres for stainless steel tanks all the way back in the 1960s. The blend on the ’08 is sixty-one percent pinot noir, thirty-four percent chardonnay and five percent pinot meunier. The wine is pure, youthful and stunningly precise on the nose, offering up scents of tart apple, bread dough, complex minerality, gentle smokiness and a lovely saline element in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very racy, with a great core, zesty acids, refined mousse and outstanding length and grip on the very long and still quite youthful finish. This is approachable today, but will be even better with five or six years in the cellar. This is Chef de Cave Dominique Demarville’s first vintage bottling since his arrival here in 2006. Impressive! (Drink between 2016-2040)

2002 Recaredo Cava Turo d’en Mota. 94 points.

NV Agustí Torelló Mata Cava Kripta Brut Nature Gran Reserva. 92 points. pretty sure it was the NV bottling that was consumed. Wine comes in a precarious amphoral shaped cylinder. very clean and dry, and to my palate somewhat indistinguishable from a champagne.

Pan Con Tomate. Crispy focaccia, grated tomato and garlic with J5 Jamon Iberico.

Pulpo a la Brasa Pintxo. Skewer of beer braised Spanish octopus with la espanola chorizo and pimenton mayonesa.

2016 Vina Somoza Godello Ededia.

2013 Clos Figueras Priorat Font de la Figuera Blanco. VM 91. Vivid straw color. Lively citrus pith and pear skin aromas are complicated by anise, white flowers and dusty minerals. Firm and juicy on the palate, offering zesty lime and orange flavors and a gingery topnote. Finishes dry, precise and very long, with a lick of spiciness and lingering minerality.

2018 Lagar de Cervera Albariño Rías Baixas. VM 90. Bright straw-yellow. Tangerine, green apple and melon on the fragrant nose, complemented by a chalky mineral nuance. Lively citrus and orchard fruit flavors show sharp definition and minerally back-end cut. Finishes long and precise, with repeating florality and a suggestion of bitter citrus pith. (Drink between 2021-2024)

2015 La Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri Rioja Blanco. 93 points.
2013 Clos Mogador Priorat Nelin. 91 points.

2014 Venus La Universal Montsant Dido Blanco. 92 points.Blend of Garnatxa blanca (White Grenache), Macabeu (Viura) and Cartoixà (Xarel·lo), by René Barbier & Sara Pérez. From ecologically farmed sauló (decomposed granite) soil plots in Marça and Falset. Aged in clay amphora and various size barrels for 9 months.

Early Summer Gazpacho. Valdivia farms tomato, burrata, strawberries and mint.

1980 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia. 93 points. Leather and earth; light saline and cherry-blackberry; balanced and complex; smooth and lean; velvety; outstanding long sweet soft light cherry finish.

1975 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial. 93 points.

1960 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial.

1970 La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva 904. JG 90. Out of the blocks the 1970 Reserva 904 from Rioja Alta is one of the most fruit-driven old Riojas that I have tasted in quite some time, as it offers up a candied mélange of bing cherries and wild strawberries when first poured. As the wine has a chance to settle in notes of deeper-pitched fruit tones of blood orange, cloves, allspice, woodsmoke and Burgundy-like undertones of autumn leaves emerge and add to the aromatic complexity. On the palate the wine is medium-full, bright and resolved, with good depth at the core, melting tannins, and good length on the delicate, but tangy old finish. As the wine unfolded over an hour and a half, a bit of the amplitude melted away, as this wine is getting towards the end of its apogee of maturity. For maximum pleasure out of this wine, I would opt for serving it immediately upon decanting. (Drink between 2005-2010)

1978 La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva 904. 90 points.

Orecchiette. Pea puree, parmesan espuma, charred snap pea, lemon.

1994 Bodegas Alejandro Fernández Ribera del Duero Janus Gran Reserva Pesquera. JG 89. I liked the fruit and soil components of the 1994 Janus Reserva from Pesquara quite well, but the wood was a bit heavier-handed than was the case with the Pesquara wines from the vintages of the 1980s and 1990s. I am sure that there are plenty of tasters that would have no problem with this level of new wood, but for me, the wine loses a bit of elegance because of its uncovered wood tannins on the backend. In any case, the bouquet is lovely, as it delivers scents of pomegranate, plums, chocolate, a touch of blood orange, tobacco and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and quite velvety on the attack, with a fine core of fruit, sound focus, but just a bit of dry wood tannin sticking out on the finish. A very good wine nonetheless, it could have been special with less oak. (Drink between 2006-2015)

From my cellar: 1995 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. VM 94. Dark red. Intense, expressive aromas of blackberry, blueberry, cherry liqueur, sandalwood, cigar box, roasted coffee and exotic chocolate. Thick and sweet, with deep red and dark berry flavors complicated by an array of pungent spices, mocha, vanilla bean and cured tobacco. Deep, penetrating and very long on the finish, with wonderfully sweet cherry and blackcurrant flavors lingering. Built to age, but this is awfully delicious right now. (Europvin USA, Oakland, CA)

2004 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. VM 96. Inky ruby: doesn’t look like a ten-year old wine. A heady, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red and dark berries, vanilla, pipe tobacco, new leather and potpourri, with a subtle mineral flourish. Spicy, sweet and expansive, offering palate-staining cherry compote and cassis flavors with exotic violet and chewing tobacco qualities. Deepens and gains spiciness on the smooth, gently tannic finish, which lingers with superb focus and tenacity.

2006 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. VM 97. Saturated ruby. An amazingly complex array of red and blue fruit preserve, spice and floral scents is accompanied by suggestions of incense, pipe tobacco, coconut and candied licorice. Utterly stains the palate with impressively concentrated yet lively, smoke- and spice-laced cherry compote, blueberry, fruitcake and violet pastille flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Sappy and broad on the endless finish, which shows outstanding thrust and dusty tannins that are absorbed by the wine’s densely packed fruit. (Drink between 2025-2040)

2013 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único Reserva Especial 1994, 1999, 2000 (2013 Release). 94 points.

2009 Dominio Pingus Ribera del Duero. VM 96+. Dark purple. Drop-dead gorgeous aromas of spicy dark berries complicated by vanilla, mocha, espresso, iron, licorice and sexy oak spices. Sweet and expansive, showing great depth to its ripe blackberry and boysenberry flavors. Notes of candied flowers, cola and mocha gain strength with air and carry through an extremely long, sweet finish. There’s plenty of structure here but it’s hidden under all the dense fruit right now. That price is correct, sadly.

Bacalao. Jamon tonkotsu, pan seared local black cod, sping onion and roasted cherry tomato.

2009 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial. VM 94. Vivid ruby-red. A highly perfumed, expansive bouquet evokes ripe red and dark berries, cherry liqueur, coconut and cigar box, along with a sexy floral nuance that emerges slowly. Plush and seamless on the palate, offering sweet, deeply concentrated blackberry, cherry-vanilla and mocha flavors that are given spine and lift by a core of juicy acidity. Rich yet energetic in style, displaying superb finishing clarity, even tannins and a lingering spicecake note. The Tempranillo saw only American oak while the Mazuelo component saw only French. (Drink between 2020-2030)

2006 Bodega Numanthia Toro Termanthia. VM 94. Glass-staining ruby. Seductive, strongly perfumed aromas of black raspberry, boysenberry, sandalwood, potpourri and cocoa powder. Surprisingly lithe and energetic on the palate, offering sweet red berry and spice flavors, a velvety texture and slow-mounting minerality. Turns more floral on the finish, which is tangy, fresh and extremely long. More graceful than the 2005 but without that superb wine’s power: think of Margaux vs. the 2005’s Latour. (Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY)

2005 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904. VM 94. Bright ruby-red. Complex, intensely perfumed bouquet of candied cherry, vanilla, mocha, cured tobacco and spicecake, with a suave potpourri note becoming stronger in the glass. Offers sweet, penetrating cherry-cola and lavender pastille flavors complicated by hints of smoky minerals and candied licorice. The long, subtly tannic finish delivers noteworthy energy and focus, leaving suave spicecake and cherry liqueur notes behind. (Drink between 2020-2027)

2004 Bodegas Muga Rioja Aro. VM 95. Inky violet. Intensely perfumed nose offers a room-filling bouquet of dark berry liqueur, toasty oak spices, incense and lavender. Deep, sweet and impressively complex, offering flavors of blackberry, candied plum, floral pastille and baking spices. Big but supple tannins add support to this palate-staining monster, which boasts surprising freshness on the finish. Conveys a rare balance of power and elegance. (Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA)

2005 Bodegas Pintia Toro Pintia. VM 92. Inky purple. Alluring bouquet of blackberry and blueberry preserves, cherry-cola and vanillin oak spices. Broad, fleshy and deep, with sweet flavors of dark berries, floral pastille and vanilla beans. The rich fruit nicely absorbs the oak element on the long, velvety finish. Leaves a wide swath of creamy dark fruits and licorice in its wake. Pretty sexy stuff. (Europvin USA, Van Nuys, CA)

Rib Eye. Grilled grass fed rib eye, grilled chanterelles, goat butter potatoes, smoked mushroom and px jus. A slightly contentious dish as some of the “meat on the bone” guys thought it was over cooked. I enjoyed it myself as I liked the rich sauce.

Grapefruit Aperol Tarragon Sorbetto — Cold pressed Fresh Grapefruit juice from my garden, Aperol and fresh Tarragon! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Unique and bracing — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #grapefruit #aperol #tarragon

1969 David Bruce Zinfandel.

2008 Outpost Zinfandel Howell Mountain. VM 91. Good deep red. High-toned aromas of plum, mocha, licorice, menthol, black pepper and exotic herbs. Plump, lush and sweet, with harmonious acidity framing the redcurrant and spice flavors. Finishes with substantial ripe, building tannins and repeating notes of pepper and menthol. This is creamier than usual for this consistently excellent zinfandel at this early stage but there’s no shortage of structure or minerality here.

1995 Ridge Zinfandel Paso Robles. 89 points.

2016 Epoch Estate Wines Zinfandel Paderewski Vineyard. VM 95. Vivid purple. Deeply perfumed black and blue fruit, incense and potpourri aromas show outstanding clarity and pick up exotic spice, vanilla and woodsmoke qualities with air. Fleshy, seamless and alluringly sweet, offering palate-staining boysenberry, cassis, dark chocolate and floral pastille flavors that show wonderful energy for their heft. The floral and blue fruit qualities carry emphatically through an extremely long finish that features slow-building, harmonious tannins and a resonating mineral note. (28% new French oak) (Drink between 2024-2033)

Quesos. Assorted chef selected cheese. Umeboshi membrillo, fruit, chestnut honey.

Crispy crackers.

From my cellar: 1946 Bodegas Toro Albala Don PX Convento Selección. 100 points. Wow. Oily thick. Initially a surprising amount of fruit and freshness, in the apricot peach sort of range. Then rich caramel and butterscotch and sticky toffee pudding. Hints of soy sauce. Interesting cooling notes like menthol or mint. Insanely long finish. Forever long. A little heavy and cloying — 4 people struggled (not quite the right word…) to finish 1 bottle. (I took one for the team and finished it! ) But excellent and fascinating nonetheless. Feels like it could age for 100 more years.

Kona Kona Gelato — Egg based Macadamia Nut base with chopped Mac Nuts swirled with house-made Coffee Caramel Valrhona Chocolate Ganache — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #chocolate #valrhona #Macadamia #nuts #swirl #ganache #eggs

The gang at the table.

Some of the guys contemplate the damage we did!

Others get to smoking.

Overall, a delicious afternoon — food and wine both! An awesome range of Spanish wines and some great Spanish food.

We did have WAY too much wine for the number of courses. We could have used an easy 2 or 3 more courses to stage it out. A couple years ago we had one more course and we could really use that as there is that extra Zin flight.

The setting really is magnificent. The weather was perfect, if a little cloudy. Just an ideal afternoon in the yard!

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Gelato, Grenache, lunch, Paul Wools, Sandy, Sauvages, Spanish, Wine, Zinfandel

Reaching New Heights at 71Above

Aug16

Restaurant: 71Above [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10]

Location: 633 W 5th St., Los Angeles, CA 90071

Date: May 4, 2021

Cuisine: New American

Rating: Awesome in all ways

71Above is one of my favorite LA restaurants and I’ve been many times. In fact there are 9 previous write ups! Chef Vartan Abgaryan has moved on to his own new place, Yours Truly (which the pandemic has sadly done in), and 71Above is now seamlessly helmed by his disciple, Chef Javier Lopez.

Our return here is in fact the day of their reopening after 15+ months shuttered and for a special dinner arranged by own Emil Eyvazoff.

Besides being located on the 71st floor (950 feet up!) of the US Bank building, being the highest restaurant west of the Mississippi, it’s owned and operated by my friend Emil Eyvazoff!

Before starting our dinner Emil gave me a quick tour of their new “patio” on the 70th floor below where they are serving up Mezzes and drinks.

Gorgeous build out upstairs for the main event.

Look at the crazy view and the crazy fog on this weird spring night.

We set up shop for this evening in the private room.

Our menu for the night.

NV Taittinger Champagne Brut Réserve / La Française. VM 89. Light gold. Poached pear, peach, orange and honey on the fruity nose. Broad and fleshy on entry, then tighter and more tangy in the mid-palate, offering juicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors with subtle ginger and toasted grain nuances. Shows a supple, round character on the finish, with the ginger and peach notes repeating. Note that this bottling is labelled as “Reserve” for every country aside from the United States. In fact, I tasted a bottle labeled as such here in New York this fall, from Lot L3348NA9200. How it wound up here, I’ve no idea.

2000 Dom Pérignon Champagne P2. VM 96. The 2000 Dom Pérignon P2 is striking. More importantly, it is absolutely delicious right now. Baked apple tart, brioche, spice, vanillin, ripe pear and crushed rocks all flesh out. Creamy, layered and inviting, with soft, voluptuous curves, the 2000 offers a lot of sheer pleasure. Although, perhaps not quite as complex or structured as the very best P2s, the 2000 is wonderfully alluring. Interestingly, in 2000, the Blanc and P2 are not as different as they typically are. The P2 has a bit more volume and freshness than the Blanc, but both wines share a distinct toasty, slightly reductive character. (Drink between 2019-2040)

NV Krug Champagne Brut Rosé Edition 23eme. VM 94. The NV Rosé 23ème Edition is wonderfully nuanced and layered, with lovely richness to play off a core of bright red berry fruit. Although not especially complex in this release, the Rosé offers lovely immediacy and tons of pure pleasure. Crushed berries, chalk, mint and white flowers are nicely softened in this super-expressive, beautifully persistent Rosé. A few more years in bottle will only help. The 23ème is a Champagne of pure and total pleasure. This release is based on 2011, with reserve wines back to 2000. (Drink between 2021-2041)

Bread and butter.

From my cellar: 1996 Robert Ampeau & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. 94 points. Golden hue, good lustre. Fresh, fruit and spice, soft aged characters, honey and grilled nuts. Fleshy, full flavoured, long smooth palate. Fruit, cream, toast and honey, nothing oxidative. Very clean finish, pure and fruit driven, gentle acidity, carries its sweet aged fruit very well.

2014 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons. BH 92. This too is distinctly cool and reserved with its pretty, spicy and airy array of citrus, iodine and ocean breeze scents. There is beautiful intensity and delineation to the delicious and energetic medium-bodied flavors that deliver solid richness and persistence on the well-balanced finish. This excellent effort should amply reward 6 to 8 years of cellaring. (Drink starting 2021)

2010 Joseph Drouhin Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. VM 93+. Pale bright yellow. Very stony aromas of peach, apricot and grilled nuts. At once thoroughly ripe and quite dry, with its primary fruit flavors currently dominated by a strong dusty stone element. This very backward but scented Perrieres saturates the palate with spices and minerals.

Yellowfin Crudo. Jicama, Avocado, Lemongrass, Charred Serrano Oil, Lime, Mint. Super zingy flavors. Really awesome.

2009 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot. VM 96. Another vibrant, precise wine from this often misunderstood vintage, the 2009 Corton-Charlemagne boasts stunning precision and class from start to finish. Citrus, pears, white flowers and crushed rocks are some of the many nuances that vibrate on the bright, crystalline finish. In this tasting, the 2009 Corton tastes like it has barely budged over the last year. It is far too young to even consider opening. (Drink starting 2015)

2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne. BH 92-94. A shy, indeed almost mute nose only grudgingly liberates its cool aromas of green apple, white fruit, spiced pear and wet stone. The intensely saline and stony big-bodied flavors are supported by a firm spine of citrus-inflected acidity that shapes the powerful finish that delivers outstanding complexity and persistence. I very much like the balance and this will need plenty of time to realize its full, and considerable, potential. (Drink starting 2025)

2018 Joseph Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne. VM 92-94. The 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from east-facing vineyards within the Les Languettes, a small production of six barrels. It has a closed and stubbornly backward bouquet that is outflanked by the Clos des Mouches Blanc. The tensile palate delivers good acidity and notes of orange zest and light peach notes, quite pure, and a spicy stem ginger and salty peanut finish. Very fine. (Drink between 2022-2040)

Farm Salad. Lettuces, Market Vegetables, Labne, Meyer Lemon, Parmigiano-Reggiano. To be honest this was one of the best salads I’ve ever had. Super herby with a really strong (and wine marginal) vinaigrette. Great texture and incredibly refreshing.

1996 Serafin Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin. VM 94. Good full ruby color. Perfumed, highly expressive black cherry, currant and licorice aromas. Great sweetness in the mouth; thick and layered yet beautifully detailed. Finishing fruit really stains the palate, overwhelming the ripe tannins. Very primary and likely to age slowly. An impeccably proportioned wine that shows none of the acid edge that characterizes many ’96s. Serafin’s late harvesting strategy in ’96 paid major dividends.

1996 Jean-Jacques Confuron Romanée St. Vivant. VM 93. Saturated ruby. Multidimensional nose of black raspberry, cocoa, minerals and subtle, smoky oak. Reticent but very deep on the palate; in comparison to this wine, the Clos Vougeot is much more open today, not to mention fruitier. But this is more complex. Really seamless and impeccably balanced. Finishes with suave, evenly distributed tannins and great subtle persistence.

1997 Domaine Francois Lamarche La Grande Rue. BH 88. The initial hints of secondary aromas, including a somewhat surprising trace of sous bois, combine with pretty red and black fruit aromas that are notably ripe and framed in obvious wood are followed by moderately austere flavors (particularly so for the vintage) that offer better than average precision while being supported by medium firm finishing tannins that display just a touch of the greenness that many ’97s do at this point in their evolution. This is a bit one-dimensional relative to the best here and I would suggest drinking it over the next 5 years or so as the fruit risks drying out before the structure resolves itself.

1998 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes. BH 91. Exquisitely complex yet rather reserved fruit with medium weight, very earthy flavors of excellent depth and outstanding length. There is plenty of structure here and superb balance overall and I very much like the overall combination of density, purity, elegance and impressive length. While this is certainly approachable now with food, it will be best with another 3 to 5 years of cellar time, perhaps a bit longer. (Drink starting 2008)

Steak Tartare. Onion Vinaigrette, Bulgur, Parsley, Shallot, Turnip, Lavash Crisp. There is a clear “origin” here with the classic Lebanese/Armenian raw beef with bulgur.

Lavash crisp.

From my cellar: 1999 Denis Mugneret Père et Fils Richebourg. BH 92. Fascinating interplay of black fruit, earth, tobacco and Vosne spice framed by discreet hints of oak toast followed by sweet, supple and very intense flavors that last for minutes. This is not quite as ripe or opulent as most of the wines in this group though it sports excellent acid/fruit balance as a result. I like the more reserved style of this.

agavin: a touch bretty at first, but opened and was then stunning. My WOTN (of course I’m biased).

2002 Gros Frère et Sœur Richebourg. VM 95. Medium red. Highly perfumed, ineffably complex aromas of strawberry, currant, bacon fat, cocoa powder, gunflint, coffee and smoked meat. Dense, sappy and wonderfully intense, with exhilarating flavors of smoked meat, spices, minerals and underbrush. Conveys a powerful impression of soil tones. Builds almost freakishly on the back end, finishing with a kick of spice and a flavor of pink peppercorn. A wonderfully suave, extremely long Richebourg that offers great early appeal but has the spine to develop in bottle for 10 or 15 years. (A Patrick Lesec Selection; importers include Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; Fine Vines LLC, Melrose Park, IL; The Wine Warehouse, Commerce, CA; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY )

2001 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Echezeaux. VM 90. Medium red-ruby. Cool aromas of cassis, black plum and minerals, lifted by a peppery nuance. Supple, minerally and sweet, though still youthfully closed; slightly medicinal fruit is not yet expressing itself. Finishes with nicely ripe tannins and very good length.

Grilled Octopus. Almond Gastrique, Chile de Arbol, Castelvetrano Olive, Fennel. Jokes about the Netflix film were lighting up the table.
2001 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline. VM 96. Dark red color. Pungently floral aromas meld smoky red berries, exotic rose petal, dried lavender and magnolia blossom. Dense and extremely sweet, showing an explosive array of red fruit flavors along with exotic floral and sweet tobacco tones and an overlay of smoky bacon and bonfires. A bright mineral tone sharpens the fruit, adding focus and precision to the flavors. The finish builds and deepens but maintains superb elegance and silkiness of texture, finishing on notes of wild red berries and rose oil.

1994 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque. 94 points. Gorgeous nose. Blueberry, mulberry, cigar, tobacco. Moderate structure, medium body – think this would have been bigger and better a few years ago. Fruit fading now, with a dry finish. Long and complex.

1997 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque. VM 92-95. Good red-ruby. Perfumed aromas of cassis, violet, lilac and brown spices. Lush and aromatic in the mouth; the combination of a bit more acidity than the Mouline and its mineral and gunflint elements gives this wine noteworthy elegance and firm shape. Tannins are quite fine.

Spring Lamb. Charred Broccolini, Yellow Beet, Rhubarb Mostarda, Green Garlic, Jus. The lamb and the room have been silenced. This went perfect with the LaLa’s!

2005 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. VM 97+. Inky ruby. Hugely aromatic bouquet of red and dark berries, cherry, Asian spices, fresh flowers, minerals and cured meat; smells like a great grand cru from Vosne-Romanee but with a wilder side. Flat-out gorgeous wine, with remarkably deep but fresh red berry and cherry flavors that stain the palate. Seems to actually expand on the finish, picking up exotic spicecake and rose pastille character and leaving a sweet trail of smoky red fruits behind. “If you insist on drinking this young, do it now,” says Chave, “because it will close up in about two or three years and not be open again for a long time.” You’ve been warned.

1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle. JG90+. After a few absolutely desultory bottles of the ’89 La Chapelle, I was very pleasantly surprised to hit a very good bottle of this wine. My last several examples prior to this bottle had been overripe prune juice that was already getting quite oxidative, but this bottle was very good and a far cry from those previous examples. As readers may know, there were multiple bottlings of La Chapelle back in this era, so there are some distinctly different wines out there under the same label and vintage banner. In any event, after several very disappointing bottles, I finally got a good one this last time around. The deep, complex and meaty nose offers up scents of ripe cassis, black pepper, grilled meats, smoky overtones, a touch of balsam bough and incipient notes of chipotle peppers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and fairly roasted in personality, but, with a good core of fruit, moderate tannins and good focus and grip on the complex and gently tangy finish. I imagine that this is what sound examples of the better cuvées of this wine have shown consistently, and why folks with these bottles in the cellar thought I was completely off my rocker with my notes on less enjoyable bottles. This example is a good, solid Hermitage at its apogee, but with still a couple of decades of life ahead of it- though not quite in the league of the 1988 La Chapelle in terms of complexity and elegance. (Drink between 2012-2030)

Wagyu Short Ribs. Pea Tendril Salsa Verde, Potato Espuma, Carrot, Spring Onion, Jus.

Cheese Plate. Julianna, 1655 Gruyere, Ameribella, Accompaniments.

And a second cheese round with the special shaved cheese.

Chocolate Cherry Bite – The base is made with Valrhona 62% Satilla Chocolate with a pinch of Malabar Black Pepper and then layered with Cherry Coconut Vanilla Cream! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #Valrhona #chocolate #creamcheese #ganache #icing #pepper #cherry

Our epic lineup.

Some of the carnage.

The lovely ladies of the evening.

Heading down!

Overall, 71Above is just a seriously well conceived and executed one-of-a-kind restaurant. Really, it’s more like a NY, Singapore, or Tokyo kind of concept. First of all, the view is just awesome. I can’t wait to come back on a really clear day. Particularly once they begin brunch service, a nice winter day will offer an observation deck like panorama.

But then Emil and crew built out such a lovely space to capture the drama. It’s modern, but welcoming. Not too loud, you can hear the conversation and the music both. And from when you enter off the double elevator ascent it folds from one experience to another: lounge, dining room, more intimate corridors, chef table, quiet and romantic view areas in the back, and a series of two adjustable private dining rooms. The attention to architectural detail is amazing.

Today’s dinner excelled on all counts. Service, food, company, and of course the wines. Post pandemic as it is everyone really stepped up big time!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: 71above, BYOG, DTLA, Emil Eyvazoff, Foodie Club, Gelato, hedonists, Wine

Upstairs with Sauvages

Aug09

Restaurant: Upstairs 2 [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 2311 Cotner Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90064 Tel. 310-231-0316

Date: April 2021

Cuisine: Modern Tapas

Rating: Bright flavors and a lot of options.

ANY CHARACTER HERE

A Sauvages lunch was my “last meal” before the year+ long hiatus from restaurant life and it’s fitting to return in style.

Upstairs 2 is located just above the Wine House on Cotner. The main room serves an eclectic tapas menu, but as this was a special Sauvages du Vin lunch (always a lunch, almost always Friday) and the restaurant was still closed due to the pandemic, we took over the whole dining room. Today’s theme was 2009 vintage or older red Grand Cru Burgundies from the communes of Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St. Denis, Chambolle-Musigny or Vosne-Romanee (91+ pts. Burghound or 93+pts. Parker).

Our takeover.

Our special menu.

From my cellar: 2004 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut. VM 96. I am thrilled with the way the 2004 Comtes de Champagne continues to evolve in bottle. A few years ago, the 2004 was quite focused and linear, in the style of the vintage, but more recently, the wine has begun to fill out beautifully. The 2004 remains bright, with a full range of citrus, white flower and mineral nuances that dance on the palate. A brisk, saline-infused finish rounds things out beautifully in a Comtes that impresses for its crystalline purity. I expect the 2004 will always remain a bit cool next to the more opulent 2002, but it is still drop-dead gorgeous. (Drink between 2014-2034)

NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 168eme. JG 96+. The new release of Krug Grande Cuvée “168ème Édition” is from the base year of 2012, with the reserve wines in the blend stretching all the way back to 1996. The final cépages has ended up as fifty-two percent pinot noir, thirty-five percent chardonnay and thirteen percent pinot meunier. Forty-two percent of the blend is made up of reserve wines in this beautiful iteration of Grande Cuvée. The bouquet is superb, wafting from the glass in a mosaic of apple, white peach, a touch of Clos du Mesnil-like fresh apricot, almond, a beautifully complex base of soil tones, fresh-baked bread, hints of the caraway seed to come and a whisper of buttery oak (which is particularly evident when the wine is first poured, but quickly is subsumed in the other elements on the nose). On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and very complex, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil signature, utterly refined mousse and a long, perfectly balanced and very energetic finish. This is one of the most effortless and seamlessly balanced young releases of Grande Cuvée in several years and is utterly brilliant wine. (Drink between 2020-2080)

Marinated crab amuse.

From the side.

Smoked salmon in pastry.

Scallop with citrus.

The wine list.

1990 Domaine A.-F. Gros Richebourg. 93 points. Lush and round, this was drinking magnificently well on the night. It started with a lovely nose, more lifted in character than most of the other Richebourgs on show, with red currants and cassis notes laced with earth, herb and sweetly citrus orange peel aromas. It was on the palate where the wine really shone though. It had a lovely fullness to it, with a plush depth and plenty of gentle power pulling away on a bed of softened tannins. I got a hint of sur-maturite on the attack, with a flavours of dried strawberries and raisin, but these were spiked by a bright citrussy energy and on the midpalate and beyond, all lending to a sense of clarity and freshness that I really liked. Unlike some of the other wines, I am not sure this has much room to improve, but it sure was showing very nicely on the day.

1991 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. BH 94. I have had this wine many times and it has always been one of my favorite ’91s. Unfortunately, a number of bottles tasted within the last 3 years were already on the decline, having lost that wonderful velvety quality that I once so much admired. While not unpleasant, it’s clear that these bottles are not what they should be as there is a toastiness that comes up on the finish and renders it ever so slightly bitter. However, a bottle tasted in Los Angeles that was air freighted from the Domaine only 3 weeks prior was simply outstanding with a wonderful nose of exotic spices and subtle yet seductive game and smoky hints followed by rich, warm and pure flavors of superb depth and length with plenty of finishing velvet. And the most recent bottle that was tasted in France was also outstanding though as my comments suggest, I have encountered significant bottle variation with scores ranging from 87 to 94.

1993 Domaine Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin. 91 points. This wine wasn’t bad but compared to the two other Ponsots CSD/CDR and also the very strong peer group it fell off. Cloudy, dark garnet. Rich and ripe palate, sour cherry, good acidity but the tannins produce a drying finish. Probably picked too late, extracted too much.

1995 Claude Dugat Charmes-Chambertin. VM 94. Brilliant ruby color. Blueberry, violet, smoky oak and floral aromas convey an almost syrupy sweetness. Dense and extremely concentrated; this shows an almost painful intensity today yet has no rough edges. Pure Pinot sap. Totally convincing grand cru. Builds and builds on the palate and aftertaste.

Roasted Mushroom Medley. Puff pastry, thyme, fennel, Burgundy mustard, parsley.

1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant. BH 92. Gorgeous, sexy, opulently perfumed fruit followed by medium weight, intense, backward, beautifully textured flavors underpinned by solid but ripe tannins and the same floral note that many of these ’95s display. This is really quite lovely with a really impressive purity of expression and should age well for years. (Drink starting 2010)

From my cellar: 1995 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques. BH 92. Explosively spicy, still entirely primary fruit of notable complexity leads to intense, medium full, edgy and beautifully precise flavors and a long but ever-so-slightly astringent finish. This is extremely pretty as well as stylish with plenty of flavor authority, mid-palate punch and impressive length. It will probably always have a slight edge on the finish but the essence of the wine is so fine that it’s a background nuance. In sum, a terrific effort. Consistent notes with the exception of one bottle that displayed a huge amount of oak that was completely over the top; I have no explanation for it but it was so oaky that it was honestly tough to drink.

agavin: if I do say so, WOTD

1996 Denis Mugneret Père et Fils Richebourg. BH 93. Subtly complex nose of leather, earth and dried grasses with delicious yet quite structured flavors and fine length. There is good sève and muscle underlying the flavors though the tannins are completely ripe and the wine should drink well over the medium term. This is not flamboyant or especially opulent yet it delivers plenty of character and quality in a refined, discreet style. I like this very much.

1996 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares. VM 93+. Good fresh dark red. Flamboyant nose combines blueberry, blackberry, licorice and Cuban tobacco; distinctly blacker aromas than the ’97. Great sweetness and penetration on the palate; flavors are given thrust and grip by a strong spine of acids and tannins. Quintessential grand cru intensity without excess weight. Extremely long, noble finish. Fascinating Bonnes-Mares, and likely to be very long-lived.

Duck Confit. Wild rice, caramelized shallots, baby red beets, au jus, upland cres.

1999 Domaine A.-F. Gros Richebourg. VM 94+. Ruby-red. Pure, pristine aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate, flowers and minerals. Dense, sweet and layered, with strong spicy oak flavor and intriguing notes of wild berries. Even fuller on the back end than the Clos Vougeot, with firm but very fine tannins. Compelling wine.

1999 Claude Dugat Chapelle-Chambertin. BH 94. Quite deeply colored. This is a big wine in every respect and one that is presently no where near its apogee. There is ample oak still present on the very ripe black fruit nose that also evidences notes of earth and spice, both of which can also be found on the powerful, concentrated and moderately rustic well-muscled flavors that are supported by very firm tannins and excellent depth and length. Courtesy of Dr. Chen I have had this wine twice with one bottle being superb and the other have the finish dominated by extremely firm tannins. Tasted twice but with inconsistent notes. (Drink starting 2017)

1999 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Mazis-Chambertin. BH 90. A completely different expression of pinot noir with its sauvage, slightly animale fruit and flavors. This isn’t especially dense but the complexity it offers is beguiling. Good precision and this has a nice sense of balance and if it manages to put on weight in the bottle, my rating will be conservative. (Drink between 2006-2009)

2000 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. BH 93. Extravagant, very ripe spice aromas explode from the glass with remarkable complexity that frame superbly elegant, gorgeously textured flavors that are intense and vibrant. This is really quite powerful for the vintage and incredibly long yet remains classy and fine. It is not especially big or dense as de Vogüé Musigny goes but is tautly muscular and defined. Extremely impressive for the vintage. (Drink starting 2010)

Ground Rabbit Sausage. Butternut squash ravioli, tarragon cream sauce, baby carrots, aged gouda.

2002 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny. . Medium red. Immediately spectacular aromas of raspberry, baked bread and white truffle. Silky, thick and highly concentrated; densely packed, sappy and wonderfully sweet but seemed to go into a shell after five minutes in the glass. Finishes with a savory note of olive, almost invisible tannins and explosive length. A great showing today, although I can easily imagine this wine continuing to gain in aromatic precision and lift for another ten years. (Drink between 2016-2034).

2005 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin. VM 92+. Bright ruby-red. Deep aromas of blackberry and licorice; at once riper and more brooding than the last couple of wines. Then juicy, spicy and vibrant but quite closed in the middle palate, with superb energy to the dark berry and violet flavors. Finishes impressively broad, ripe and dry, with substantial tongue-dusting tannins and excellent length. This one also needs a solid six to eight years of cellaring.

Ron brought: 2007 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg. VM 93+. Bright medium red. Pungent aromas of wild strawberry, minerals, spices and pepper. Not a fat wine but classy and suave, with terrific peppery, minerally lift in the middle palate. With aeration, this classically dry wine showed a stronger soil component and mounting power. Finishes with superb breadth and an impression of weightlessness. I might have initially mistaken this for the RSV-and vice-versa-had I tasted these blind, but this is ultimately the more powerful wine.
2008 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche. VM 95. The 2008 Clos de la Roche is particularly refined in this vintage. The wine literally floats on the palate with weightless elegance in its intensely perfumed fruit. Crushed flowers and red berries linger on the silky, impossibly fine finish. This is a fabulous effort from Dujac. (Drink between 2018-2033)

Seared Lamb Porterhouse Chops. Gruyere potato gratin, buttered english peas, red wine demi-glace.

1880 D’Oliveiras Madeira Terrantez. 94 points. Powerful nose of burnt caramel, roasted nuts, and orange rind. Freshly roasted espresso, plum, and black tea notes most notable on the palate. Rich, but with piercing acidity, not cloying at all. Delicious stuff.

Brillat-Savarin & Roquefort. Toasted baguette, quince paste, cornichon, marcona almonds.

1976 Château Rieussec. 93 points. Hints of erstwhile headiness on the nose. Good balance of sweetness and acidity, with a definite bitter marmalade note. It suggested an old Bual madeira, both in appearance and flavour.

The lineup.

My notes.

Overall Upstairs 2 did a solid job with this lunch. Wine service was good and the food was good. Wines were awesome and a lot of great showings. As this was the first Sauvages in 13 months, everyone really stepped up.