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Crustacean Cru

Jun05

Restaurant: Crustacean Beverly Hills [1, 2, 3]

Location: 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 205-8990

Date: Spring 2021

Cuisine: Vietnamese Fusion

Rating: Return after long hiatus

For one of my first post-lockdown post-vaccination ventures out went to Crustacean, both an LA landmark and owned and operated by our friends the Ans.

We’ve had a couple awesome meals here in the last couple of years.

For extra caution in these uncertain times we ate on one of their fabulous patios.

Our special menu.

From my cellar: 2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. VM 99. The 2008 Cristal is one of the most complete, most dazzling Champagnes I have ever tasted. A stunning wine from any and all perspectives, the 2008 simply has it all. Spherical in construction, with superb persistence. The 2008 takes hold of all the senses and never gives up. One of the many things that makes the 2008 special is a combination of ripe fruit and bright, piercing acidity. Marzipan, lemon confit, dried flowers and orchard fruit all build into the explosive, resonant finish. “We learned from the mistakes of 1996, when we picked more on acid than ripeness, as was the norm in Champagne back then” Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon told me recently. “In 1996, the best fruit turned out to be the last picks, where the fruit was physiologically ripe. Today, we aim to pick all our fruit with that criteria.” (Drink between 2020-2050)

Blinis & Caviar. Tomato “Salmon” topped with meyer lemon vegan aioli, “vegan caviar”, fresh dill sprig, 2k gold. Nice contrast of flavors and textures, particularly for vegan.

2007 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut. VM 96. Taittinger’s 2007 Comtes de Champagne will be nearly impossible to resist upon release. Soaring aromatics, mid-weight structure and soft contours give the 2007 its alluring personality. Lemon oil, white flowers, mint, chamomile and green pear add brightness and freshness throughout, with a persistent, clean finish that makes it impossible to resist a second taste. Today, the 2007 comes across as a slightly more open version of the 2004, with freshness that makes that wine so appealing, and a touch of textural richness that recalls the 2002. Although the 2007 does not have the explosive energy or verticality of the profound 2006, it will drink better earlier. The 2007 has been positively brilliant on the three occasions I have tasted it so far. (Drink between 2018-2047)

Tempura Tiato. Tombo Tuna and Fresh Lime. Very tasty, hint of a spicy finish.

2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos. BH 96. Here too the elegance of the nose is simply stunning with a layered and perfumed aromatic profile trimmed in an almost invisible touch of oak that allows it to ooze Chablis character and in particular, a fine minerality that continues onto the impressively concentrated and palate staining flavors that possess striking precision on the explosively long and bone dry finish. This is a great Les Clos that will make old bones. (Drink starting 2015)

Spicy Pacific Yellowtail Sashimi. Drip Calibrasian Chili Sauce, Snow Pea. A bit like the Nobu Classic yellowtail with Jalapeño.

2008 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut Rosé La Grande Dame. 96 points. Very refined expressive nose displaying subtle red and yellow fruit, raspberry, pomegranate soda, light caramel, cooper, a hint of cedar, rose, perfume and oyster shell. Already showing beautifully integrated sophisticate palate, finely layered subtle pale red fruit, very fine generous mousse, precise and beautifully detailed, bright acidity, strong seashell mineral, and a seamless long pale red and yellow fruit driven finish with caramel and oyster shell at the end.

Tempura Chicken Oyster. Kafir Lime Salt. Amazing soft and tasty bite of fry.

From my cellar: 2002 Gros Frère et Sœur Grands-Echezeaux. BH 90-93. While not really intrusive, the oak treatment is still visible on the otherwise expressive nose of spice, earth and black fruit aromas that are still completely primary in character. The big-bodied and muscular flavors are not particularly elegant though there is good size and weight to them, all wrapped in a reasonably long finish where wood tannins can also be discerned on the mouth coating backend. In sum, this is a good but not great Grands Ech. Tasted twice recently with consistent notes. (Drink starting 2014)

2012 Domaine Maume-Marchand-Tawse Mazis-Chambertin. BH 91-94. Here there is a much better wood versus fruit trade off that allows the black cherry liqueur, lavender and plum aromas to shine. The opulent and beautifully concentrated broad-shouldered flavors brim with dry extract on the intense and mineral-inflected finish that exhibits superb length where the wood resurfaces. This serious old school effort should be excellent in time though note that plenty of cellar time will be required.

Shaken Filet Mignon Skewer. Grilled over Binchotan Charcoal with House Pickles. Lollipop version of the French Vietnamese classic.

The big guy with the most senior An.

1982 Château La Lagune. JG 94. Though La Lagune is listed as a wine from the Haut Médoc, I have always thought of it as really a wine from Margaux, as it lies just outside of the communal boundary there and stylistically, shares much with the wines of Margaux. The 1982 vintage of La Lagune remains the very finest year I have ever tasted from this consistently outstanding property. Today the wine is drinking at its apogee, but still has decades and decades of life ahead of it, with the superb bouquet offering up scents of black cherries, cassis, French roast, cigar ash, some gently roasted fruit elements, dark soil and a touch of toasty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and absolutely velvety on the attack, with a sappy core, lovely focus and grip and a long, meltingly tannic and opulent finish.

1989 Château Margaux. 94 points. Beautiful rich cherry and red fruit, plush nose; rich, plush, elegant red fruit, plum and espresso; long finish.

1996 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou. VM 94+. Bright medium ruby. Deep, superripe aromas of dark berries, black cherry and bitter chocolate; slightly exotic crystallized fruit aspect. Dense, sweet and wonderfully rich; a lovely combination of palate-caressing chocolatey fruit and firm underlying structure. Finishes with excellent grip and great palate-saturating sweetness. Another outstanding 1996 Medoc wine in the making.

Array ready to be finished.

A5 Wagyu Pho. Aromatic broth, ginger, scallion. Very very subtle and lovely.

From my cellar: 1996 Robert Ampeau & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. 94 points. A lovely Perrières that is gracefully straddling the fence of freshness and maturity. A trace of fruit is joined by nutty, mushroomy tertiary notes. A real delight.

Alaskan King Crab with An’s Famous Garlic Noodles. These are so good. The noodles are simple, but to die for.

2003 Colgin Syrah IX Estate. VM 93. Good medium red. Aromas of black fruits, violet, licorice and bacon fat complicated by pepper and herbs; one can sense the heat of the vintage. Juicy, tightly wound and rather powerful, with its salty, penetrating dark berry and licorice flavors showing good energy and a serious tannic edge but still evolving. (Winemaker Tauziet referred to the wine’s “hot/cool aromas and flavors.”) Production in 2003 jumped to 250 cases from 2002’s 100 cases, but the estate nonetheless dropped a lot of crop in ’03.

2011 Colgin Syrah IX Estate. VM 93+. Bright dark ruby. Reticent aromas of black fruits, peppercorn, fennel and licorice showcase the coolest vintage to date here. Offers lovely density of flavor and texture if less sweetness than most of these vintages. A distinctly salty, backward Syrah with hints of menthol, maple syrup, beef and pepper. Strong natural acidity accentuates the wine’s impression of dryness. This very young wine went into a shell in my glass and will need at least three or four more years in bottle to harmonize. According to winemaker Allison Tauziet, almost all of the Syrah fruit was harvested before the rains started on October 4, and the latest-picked block was eliminated from the blend. A very Old World style with a light touch–and a complex, strong wine from this cool, late vintage. (Drink between 2021-2030)

2001 Marquis Philips Shiraz Integrity. 94 points. jammy dark fruit and a hint of chocolate mint with a long smooth finish. This is surprisingly good for its age.

2016 Moone-Tsai Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Black List XXI. 97 points.

Prime Rib and Mongolian Lamb. Yarom clearly had an influence on this dish. But super tender and delicious.

XO Garlic Fried Rice with Poached Egg and Pork Belly. This is pretty insanely good.

2018 Château de Rayne-Vigneau. VM 92+. The 2018 Château de Rayne-Vigneau is just missing a little intensity on the nose compared to its peers; even leaving it aside to open, it remains recalcitrant. The palate is much more expressive, offering orange pith, apricot, mango and a touch of wild honey. Nicely proportioned on the finish, although it needs 3–4 years to subsume the oak and for the aromatics to get their act together. (Drink between 2024-2048)

This is a signature Sweet Milk flavor — Italian Lemon Cookie Meringue Pie — Limoncello Zabaione base with lemon cookie flavor mixed with Italian Lemon Creme Cookies and Sicilian Candied Lemon and topped with house-made toasted Meringue — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #lemon #LemonCookie #cookie #Sorento #Limoncello #Meringue #LemonMeringuePie

Heavenly Coconut. Coconut Cake and Vegan Coconut Sorbet. Very lovely. Lots of good coconut flavors.

Overall, this was a kingly evening. Boy did the Ans treat us right and we had an incredible menu, amazing service, and great wines.

Discussing the food analytically. Very good, and most dishes varied from good to great. The Vietnamese influence is far more subtle, less heavy handed, then at most newer fusion places like Little Sister / LXSO or the more contemporary small plates style Khong Ten. Definitely more roughly 2000 in formal fine dining style — which I don’t mind at all. In some ways it feels like a millennium event fine dining place with Vietnamese — and to a lesser extent Thai and Chinese — notes. It’s a pretty fancy place, and priced accordingly — but they do knock it out of the park.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Beverly Hills, BYOG, Crustacean, French Vietnamese, Gelato, hedonists, Vietnamese cuisine, Vietnamese Fusion, Wine

Da Lat Rose – A Gastrobiography

Dec16

Restaurant: Dà Lat Rose

Location: 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 205-8990

Date: November 5, 2019

Cuisine: Vietnamese Modern

Rating: Really interesting, more traditional, but still modern

This year our group has struck up a friendship with Elisabeth and Catherine An of Crustacean and we’ve not only visited the main Crustacean — Hedonist style — but they have now invited us to come back just before launch to their new high end place, Dà Lat Rose.

The main entrance.

Da Lat Rose is a passion project between Chef Helene An, founder of House of AN / Crustacean Beverly Hills and Chef Tony Nguyen.

Located above the iconic Crustacean restaurant in Beverly Hills, Da Lat Rose is not just another restaurant – it is a culinary biography of Heleneʼs dramatic life events. Beginning with her birth as the daughter of a Mandarin Scholar in 1944, the 12 course tasting menu shares course-by-course of Helene’s journey from her life in Vietnam to being a refugee in America. Toward the end of the menu, Chef Helene focuses on the future of culinary advancements and transition of the kitchen at Da Lat Rose to Chef Tony Nguyen, who also celebrates his own Vietnamese American heritage as the menu concludes in the final courses.

As with most dining experiences in Vietnam, the evening will begin in the Bia Hoi, where guests can enjoy a fun street-style food experience, before they journey “down The Street” into the main dining room.

The build out is gorgeous and elaborate — this is just one corner of the bar.

The gather in the bar to begin our meal. It should be noted that this meal was a bit crazy. It was supposed to be about 10-12 but since the restaurant was only soft opening, they asked Yarom to add more people and he ran it up to 18 or 19 and that created a crazy wine situation with a tremendous number of wines but a challenge in pouring them around. It worked passably given that fact, but barely.

The tables are custom and inspired by the barrels that Vietnamese eat on street-side.

Custom-made Vietnamese fruit beer.

Elisabeth An is our hostess tonight.

The mini menu for the bar.

NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 167eme. JG 96. The new release of Krug Grande Cuvée “167eme Édition” is stellar. The wine is from the base year of 2011 and utterly transcends that vintage, but, of course, it includes nearly two hundred different wines in the blend, with the oldest reserves dating all the way back to the 1995 vintage. Fully forty-two percent of the cuvée this year is made up of reserve wines. The cépages for the 167eme Édition is forty-seven percent pinot noir, thirty-six percent chardonnay and seventeen percent pinot meunier. The wine shows its lovely preponderance of pinot noir on the nose, wafting from the glass in a beautifully complex blend of apple, white peach, a touch of patissière, very complex soil tones, caraway seed and a gently floral contribution in the upper register from the pinot meunier in the blend. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, complex and nicely broad-shouldered, with great depth at the core, refined mousse, bright, seamless acids and outstanding focus and grip on the very long, complex and beautifully balanced finish. This is simply outstanding and should age effortlessly for fifty to seventy-five years! (Drink between 2019-2090)

A Tumultuous Time. Grilled Razor Clams, grilled over white coals, Vietnamese balm.

Once removed, and doused with a bit of lime this is a delicious clam with nice chew and bright flavors.

2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. JG 97+. I last tasted the 2002 Cristal back in the autumn of 2013, when the wine was still a bit on the young side, but it has now started to really blossom beautifully and is really entering its plateau of maturity in 2018. The 2002 Cristal is composed of a blend of fifty-five percent pinot noir and forty-five percent chardonnay, with none of the vins clairs having gone through malo and the finishing dosage ten grams per liter in this vintage. This has been a brilliant vintage of Cristal since its inception and at age sixteen, the wine is just beginning to properly blossom and show some of its secondary layers of complexity, The nose jumps from the glass in a refined blend of pear, apple, fresh almond, gentle smokiness, a touch of the tangerine to come, chalky soil tones and brioche in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and a powerfully-built vintage of Cristal, with a great core, elegant mousse, bright, racy and well-integrated acids and stunning mineral drive on the very long, complex and perfectly balanced finish. This is a great vintage of Cristal, and though it is now beginning to show some lovely generosity and secondary layering, a bit more cellaring would still be richly rewarded. (Drink between 2018-2075)

In Hiding 1948. Bamboo Rice, toasted turmeric, lime leaf chicken oyster, roasted quail jus, garlic chive. Another tasty bit: chicken fried rice Vietnamese style.

2009 Dom Pérignon Champagne Luminous. It’s the same I think as the normal 2009 — some people think maybe a bit more sugar.

Raft to Refuge. Spot Prawn, lemongrass garlic butter, bird eye chili salt. This was dipped in a candle filled with melted garlic olive oil.

We then cross over the “bridge” and literally over Crustacean to the main dining room.

Large, and with more elaborate build out.

Look at these funky chairs.

Every table has custom “cones” of bronze with the house story on them.

And they offer you a selection of antique chopsticks.

Some notes.

And tonight’s menu.

2012 Louis Jadot Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 93. There is a hint of menthol sitting atop pretty aromas of acacia blossom, spiced pear and white peach scents. The delicious, muscular and pure broad-shouldered and powerful flavors possess fine size and weight that continues onto the concentrated and impressively persistent if presently compact finish. Those who enjoy their white burgs young should note that while this is very promising there isn’t great complexity at this early stage so I would very much be inclined to allow this to age for at least 8 to 10 years first. (Drink starting 2020)

2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot Cuvée Clement Emma. 88 points. Very clean and precise, crisp, light mouthfeel with long finish. Intensely stony. Somewhat surprised how very accessible this is as a pop and pour.

agavin: someone slipped in here (as Yarom padded the dinner) with a much cheaper wine. It’s not a bad wine, but it’s below the official dinner standard.

Welcome Banh Mi Bread Service. It’s a deconstructed Banh Mi, here are the pickles.

And the meats — various cured head cheeses and pates etc.

And the bread.

Along with special honey butter and pate. All of the above was to be assembled onto the bread.

2010 Domaine Jacques Prieur Montrachet. BH 94-96. This is ever-so-slightly riper than the Chevalier and a bit more aromatically complex as well if not more elegant. There is outstanding richness, volume, muscle and unconcealed power to the large-scaled heavy-weight flavors that somehow manage to avoid any sense of undue ponderousness before culminating in a massively long finish that is almost chewy and tannic. This will require plenty of bottle age but it should be great in time.

2013 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières. BH 91-93. This too is gorgeously pure with its airy, cool and complex nose that is composed by notes of white flower and freshly cut citrus fruit that are trimmed in just a hint of pain grillé. The highly energetic and intensely mineral-inflected middle weight flavors possess good richness but also terrific delineation on the firm finish that is dry, long and moderately austere. (Drink starting 2023)

Duo of Banh Xeo. Da Lat Style: A5 Tallow, rau ram, melted bean sprout, wood ear & shiitake mushroom, cucumber & garlic lime cloud. This version interprets the flavors from the traditional version (below). It has a more sophisticated and subtle flavor profile.

Traditional Style Banh Xeo: shrimp, chicken, bean sprouts, mushroom, onion, snap peas, endive, herbs. This is basically an omelet with various stuff inside eaten with herbs and the sauce. Delicious and fairly simple.

2008 Mongeard-Mugneret Grands-Echezeaux. JG 95+. For as long as I can remember, Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret has produced one of the greatest examples of Grands Echézeaux in all of Burgundy, so it comes as no surprise that their 2008 is stupendous. The absolutely beautiful, youthful nose soars from the glass in an inspired mélange of dark berries, plums, espresso, woodsmoke, incipient notes of gamebird, a kaleidoscopically complex base of soil and a judicious base of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and very primary, with a rock solid core of fruit, laser-like focus, beautiful, nascent complexity, ripe, seamless tannins and tangy acidity lifting all these elements in a peacock’s tail of transparency and purity on the very long finish. This will be an absolutely brilliant example of the vintage, and a decade down the road, it may well prove that I have slightly underrated this beautiful wine. (Drink between 2018-2060)

2011 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques. VM 96. Layers of blue and purple fruit, smoke, licorice, violets and cloves all flesh out in the 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St- Jacques. Layered, silky and expressive to the core, the 2011 shimmers across the palate with gorgeous intensity. The 2011 is naturally not quite as rich as the 2012, but it is compelling for its combination of intense fruit and floral/savory overtones. (Drink between 2019-2021)

agavin: another nice wine way under the target. or maybe it was a bonus

Avocado to top below.

Master & Monastery. Goi Da Lat. Banana blossom, kohlrabi, red water radish, crispy rau muong, white fungus, avocado. Basically a Vietnamese salad.

1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares. JG 94. I was highly critical of the 1995 vintage at Domaine de Comte de Vogüé when the wines were young, but the wines have aged far better than I ever imagined possible out of the blocks and I seriously underestimated these wines. The 1995 Bonnes-Mares offers up a lovely, musky bouquet of red and black cherries, vinesmoke, a complex base of soil tones, mustard seed, gamebirds and a discreet base of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very elegant in profile, with superb complexity, a lovely core of fruit, melting tannin and lovely length and grip on the poised and classy finish. A really lovely 1995 red Burgundy! (Drink between 2015-2050)

2006 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares. BH 94. This too is quite restrained with almost exclusively red berry fruit and intense floral aromas that are high-toned and pure while complementing the supple, textured, dusty and extremely precise flavors that exude a quiet power on the brooding and linear finish that delivers outstanding length. This will require every bit of a decade to resolve the very firm structure. This is less elegant than the 1er but more powerful and the distinguishing character of the ’06 Bonnes Mares is the serenity that it projects. I thought that it would be good but this knocks on the door of being genuinely great. (Drink starting 2018)

The presentation for the next dish.

The Union. King Crab Banh Khot. Coconut béchamel, royal keluga caviar. Delicious little bite.

2002 Domaine Xavier Liger-Belair Richebourg. 95 points.

From my cellar: 1999 Louis Jadot Romanée St. Vivant. BH 93. Deep ruby. The nose here is an elegant and very pure combination of floral and spice notes sitting atop ripe black pinot fruit that is still entirely primary with plum and violet-infused flavors that possess excellent density and terrific length. The intensity builds from the mid-palate and explodes onto the firmly tannic finish. This is built to age. (Drink starting 2016)

Some herby toppings for the next dish.

1975 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. VM 94. The 1975 Unico (magnum) is a bit forward, especially in its aromatics, but not at all unpleasant in this context, given how youthful the 1982 and 1990 are! Still holding on to considerable depth in its fruit, the 1975 offers up an intriguing array of black cherry, plum, smoke and molasses.

2003 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único. VM 95. Inky ruby. Highly aromatic scents of ripe cherry and dark berries, singed plum, cured tobacco and succulent herbs, with a vanilla undertone. Sweet, expansive and powerful, offering intense black and blue fruit flavors with smoke and floral accents. Rich and full but surprisingly lively, with excellent finishing thrust and sweet, harmonious tannins adding grip. Shows the ripeness of the vintage to good effect; this is a somewhat approachable and exotic Unico, especially with some air, but it has the concentration to age slowly.

Finding Hope in Guam. Bun Rieu. Traditional style: Dungeness crab, tiger prawn, stewed heirloom tomatoes, egg roe, rice noodle, red fish paste in light lemon leaf broth.

With the toppings.

2003 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline. VM 96-97. Saturated ruby. Superripe dark berry and cherry aromas, with an intense violet accent and a hint of minerals. Remarkably dense and packed with cherry and dark berry flavors, but with an energetic lift of acidity arriving on the back. Gets sweeter with air, taking on wild strawberry and raspberry qualities. Finishes with fine, dusty tannins and a fresh kick of raspberry. These 2003s are slated to be bottled in February of 2007.

2003 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne. VM 95-96. Ruby-red. Powerful, brooding blackberry and creme de cassis aromas are further deepened by suggestions of dark chocolate, espresso and tar. Huge, mouthfilling and sweet, with an amazingly dense texture and superconcentrated kirsch and blackcurrant flavors complemented by baking spices and smoked meat. The impressively long finish shows great depth and powerful tannic spine. Hands off this monster for a long, long time.

2011 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne. VM 95. Glass-staining ruby. Powerful, expansive aromas of black and blue fruit liqueur, smoky Indian spices, sandalwood and olive, and an exotic floral nuance that gains strength with air. Deeply concentrated but surprisingly lively, offering palate-staining dark fruit and violet pastille flavors and a strong, building spicy quality. Velvety tannins add grip to a strikingly long, sappy and penetrating finish, which clings with noteworthy tenacity. (Drink between 2020-2030)

In Collaboration. Duo of Thit Kho. Da Lat Style: Pork cheek, braised quail egg, Vietnamese caramel, activated charcoal rice, fermented mustard greens.

Pickles to optionally add on top.

Traditional style: caramelized pork, coconut water, shallots. Very simple pork stew. You jazz it up with the pickles.

Rice.

The traditional style served over rice with pickles.

2005 Colgin IX Estate. VM 95. The 2005 IX Estate comes across as a bit clenched and tightly wound. Still, two recent tastings both suggest it doesn’t quite have the depth, intensity and potential as the best wines in this flight. Ultimately, the 2005 IX Estate is a wine of two very beautiful dimensions, but not three. Iron, smoke, lavender and a host of ferrous notes are quite expressive, while the fruit remains pushed to the background. (Drink between 2015-2025)

1974 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Bello. VM 100. I have been fortunate to drink the 1974 Monte Bello three times in the last year. I served this bottle, from my cellar, blind to a group of hard-core Francophiles at the end of a dinner that showcased the best of Burgundy and Bordeaux. Every person in the room thought the wine was Bordeaux. No one came close to guessing California, much less identifying the age of the wine or the vintage. When the 1974 Monte Bello was revealed, there was only silence at the table. Tasted from a perfect bottle, the 1974 remains almost unnaturally deep, powerful and intense. It is an eternal wine whose life will only be determined by how well corks hold up. Put simply, the 1974 Monte Bello is one of the greatest and most singular wines I have ever tasted from any region in the world. (Drink between 2016-2036)

The Legacy Lives On. Wagyu Bo Kho. Snake river farms wagyu, su su “Buddha’s palm”, heirloom carrots. A Vietnamese modern beef stew.

1989 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune. 95 points. Perfectly mature CSH with just incredibly unique flavors of petrol, old honey and distinct minerals. Tangy still with great acidity and an oily texture which leads to a complex finish of spices and minerals. This shows this magnificent terroir perfectly.

Another bottle of same.

Celebration. Coconut Tapioca Che. Jackfruit, pandan, lychee, ranbutan, lognan. Quite yummy, if very Southeast Asian in flavor with that soupy and chewy texture.

Sweet Lingers. Little Bites. Vietnamese yogurt gin fizz.

Chrysanthemum tea almond tofu.

Black sesame ball.

Ruby Chocolate Gelato — base made with Callebaut Ruby Couverture Chocolate and a Stracciatella of ruby chocolate mixed with berriy puree — this isn’t a flavored chocolate but a special “ruby” cocoa bean Callebaut has bred with a natural pink color and fruity finish — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #Callebaut #chocolate #RubyChocolate #ruby #berry

Cran-Cherry Cassis Sorbetto — French Cranberries and Amareno Cherries with a bit of Crème de Cassis — tart! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Currents from Avignon, blended with Creme de Cassis –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #cranberry #cherry #current #cassis

The wine lineup.

Spectacular hosts, Elisabeth and Helen An on the left with Erick and I.

Overall, this was a kingly evening. Boy did the Ans treat us right and we had an incredible menu, amazing service, and great wines.

The experience and the food both upstairs is more Vietnamese than at Crustacean below. Sure, a very high end Vietnamese, and still quite fusion, but more Vietnamese. The traditional style variants on our menu aren’t on the normal menu — they were special for us — but they also threw the “Da Lat Style” dishes into more relief in a very intriguing way. I do have to say that I enjoyed the newer style a bit better, as it was similar flavors but a bit more polished — despite the fact that I love pretty traditional Vietnamese food. Anywhichway it was delicious.

Wines were “interesting” tonight. Most were quite nice bottles, but the format of 18-19 people just doesn’t work well. Pours were small but surprisingly got around. Still, it’s too many different wines for this many dishes. Leading to a dizzying assault in the second half of the meal. And pairings were a bit awkward because this food really wants mostly whites and Champagne and there were lots of big red wines — and all of 1-2 dishes that were actually red friendly. Some people care a whole lot less about wine pairing than I do. After a bit of a confusing start (mostly because we handed them a confusing task) the somms managed to really get the wines down in the second half of the meal. I was impressed. But it was still too many small pours and no time to savor. In the end doing it this way I can’t remember the individual wines at all.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

By: agavin
Comments (0)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: An Family, BYOG, Crustacean, Dà Lat Rose, Gelato, hedonists, Vietnamese cuisine, Vietnamese Fusion, Wine

Kings at Crustacean

Jun09

Restaurant: Crustacean Beverly Hills

Location: 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 205-8990

Date: May 3, 2019

Cuisine: Vietnamese Fusion

Rating: Still great

A couple months ago while at OOToro my Hedonist group dined with Catherine An of Crustacean and she invited us to come to her place to experience it Hedonist style.

I haven’t been to Crustacean in maybe 10 years — not exactly sure why — other than maybe that it’s pricey, as I do love Vietnamese food. So it’s about high time I get back there and give it a good testing and write up.

Yarom with An sister Elizabeth. So Elizabeth and her sister Catherine set us up big time.

We had (most) of the private room. Technically Crustacean had a big remodel since I was here last, but it’s been so long that I can’t remember how it was before. It’s upscale attractive now — still sort of late 90s high end restaurant in vibe, which is way less industrial than most newer places.

Our special giant tasting menu.

2004 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. VM 97. The 2004 Brut Cristal has put on quite a bit of weight since I first tasted it earlier this year. It is a powerful, structured Cristal layered with considerable fruit. Chardonnay seems to play the leading role in 2004, at least today. Cristal is often accessible young, but that is far from the case here. This is a serious, painfully young Cristal that will require considerable patience. Readers who are willing to spend some time with the wine today will find a super-impressive, complete Cristal.

2004 Dom Pérignon Champagne. VM 97. A wine of nuance, precision and understatement, the 2004 remains all grace. Time has softened some of the contours, but the flavors remain fresh and vibrant. Medium in body, the 2004 can be enjoyed now or cellared for several decades. This is a gorgeous showing from the 2004, a wine that has been captivatingly beautiful from the first time I tasted it years ago. There is something effortless about the 2004 that is hard to capture with words. The 2004 doesn’t quite have the obvious breeding of the 2008 and 2002, nor the obvious power of the 2003 or 2006, and yet it is harmonious, sublime and totally sensual.

2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne. VM 98+. The 2008 Dom Pérignon is fabulous, but quite remarkably, it was even more open when I tasted it a year ago. Bright, focused and crystalline in its precision, the 2008 is going to need a number of years before it is at its best. Lemon peel, white flowers, mint and white pepper give the 2008 its chiseled, bright profile. Several recent bottles have all been magnificent. What I admire most about the 2008 is the way it shows all the focus, translucence and energy that is such a signature of the year, and yet it is also remarkably deep and vertical. In other words, the 2008 is a Champagne that plays in three dimensions.

2000 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. BH 96. A wonderfully layered and nuanced nose features an intense yeasty character to the maturing fruit that displays interesting phenolic characters, in particular petrol, along with aromas of apple, pear and soft citrus hints. In contrast to the nascent maturity expressed by the nose the flavor profile is still tight and backward with a genuinely gorgeous texture, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent and highly complex finish. For my taste the 2000 Brut is at an inflection point as the nose does offer enough maturity so that it’s really quite pretty whereas the palate impression is substantially younger. As such it really just depends on how you prefer your Champagne because I suspect that the nose will be very mature by the time the still very youthful flavors attain their majority. For my taste preferences it would be no vinous crime to begin enjoying this now but be aware that this will age for a very long time. The best approach is probably to buy 6, or even 12, bottles and enjoy them over a longer period of time.

Champagne caviar flute. There is a bit of buttery toast for scooping it up.

The “it” is a creamy stuff with caviar and foam. Delicious.

Tuna Cigars. Instant Smoke, Feuille De Brick, Avocado Silk, Vidalia Onion, Tobiko Caviar.

They were packed with dry ice.

These were really delicious. A bit like the classic Wolfgang Puck tuna cone. Complex salty/sweet flavors. Yum!

From my cellar: 1993 Robert Ampeau & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. BH 92. A fully mature and expressive nose of elegant secondary fruit and floral aromas introduces intensely mineral-driven, pure and beautifully well-detailed middle weight flavors that possess excellent depth and fine length. This is drinking perfectly now and should continue to do so without effort for at least another decade. Tasted only once recently.

2012 Faiveley Montrachet Le Montrachet. 95 points. Actually guessed both the vineyard and the producer here (the wine was served by the importer); proud was I. Surprisingly advanced wine, very rich, smooth, layered, long with notes of honey, butter and some confit d’orange. Great wine, rich – and too young, I think.

This wine needed TIME! But was amazing.

Surf and Turf Sashimi. A-5 Wagyu, Crispy Garlic, Purple Potato, Tabasco Chili Ponzu.

Crispy Garlic, Purple Potato.

A-5 Wagyu, Tabasco Chili Ponzu. Yummy bits of succulent beef.

2004 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles. BH 93. A mildly reduced nose features honeysuckle and acacia blossom notes introduces sweet, rich and beautifully complex flavors of impressive purity and vibrancy with brilliant length. A terrific effort that has the hallmark softness of Pucelles while retaining a firm and tangy, indeed almost linear finish that displays more minerality than usual.

Braised Lamb Dumpling. Tom yum jus, galangal, Japanese Sweet Potato, Butternut Squash, Puffed Rice.

With the jus — which was basically the broth from Tom Yum soup — delicious.

Marcassin — I can’t read the vintage.

2014 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes. BH 94-97. There is enough wood to notice along with a hint of menthol on the markedly earthy red and dark berry fruit aromas where background hints of spice and floral elements are in evidence. The overtly powerful and concentrated broad-shouldered flavors display almost painful intensity before culminating in an explosively long and very firmly structured finish where once again a hint of bitter cherry appears. This is an interesting wine of contrasts as the mid-palate, even with all of its intensity, possesses a caressing palate feel yet the finish is bold, robust and unyielding. As the description confirms, this is going to require a long snooze in a cool cellar.

agavin: NOTE that the start drinking date on this wine is 2031!

From the “Secret Kitchen”:

AN’s Famous Garlic Roasted Dungeness Crab with AN’s Famous Garlic Noodles. This was a special personal version of the crab and noodles. I remember when I first came here that you had to pay an extra few dollars for them to crack it! But now that’s included if you like. We didn’t have to crack it at all. The meat was delicious and so were the noodles.

So good. Great by themselves, and even better with the crab.

1978 Gaja Barbaresco. VM 92. Dark red. Gaja’s 1978 Barbaresco is a study in contrasts. The nose suggests a mature wine, with aromas of leather and cocoa dominating, although on the palate the wine shows generous amounts of dark fruit in a concentrated style with much persistence, length and the structure of the vintage. My impression is of a beautiful wine that lacks the balance to be a truly great wine.

2005 Château Pape Clément. VM 97. The 2005 Pape Clément is a fabulous contrast to the Haut-Brion. The former represents modernism at its best, while the latter is one of the archetypes of classicism. Both are striking. Compelling and seductive from the outset, the 2005 Pape Clément races out of the glass with notable opulence and ripeness. Soft contours and heady aromatics make the 2005 a real joy to taste today. Just beginning to show the first signs of aromatic complexity, the 2005 Pape Clément looks like it won’t be as long-lived as some of the other wines in this tasting, but it is extraordinarily beautiful today. The style is unapologetically flamboyant, yet all the elements are in the right place. When it comes to pure hedonistic pleasure, it’s hard to match the 2005 Pape Clément.

Lamb chops.

2006 David Arthur Cabernet Sauvignon Elevation 1147. VM 91. Bright ruby-red. Very ripe and aromatic nose combines cassis, blueberry and complex soil tones. Lush and pliant in the mouth, with a restrained sweetness to the nuanced flavors of dark berries, mocha, chocolate and earth. Tactile and broad wine with very good inner-palate energy. Finishes long, with a positive medicinal quality.

More Marcassin I can’t identify.

“Cha Ca” Broiled Red Snapper Banh Mi. Spicy Aioli, Traditional Banh Mi Pickles. A slightly fancy looking version of the very traditional Vietnamese fish with herb salad. I had this in Vietnam, at the very old school Phong Dinh, and recently even in somewhat different form at fusion Khong Ten. It was good in all cases, and certainly delicious here! I really like the turmeric thing.

2013 Ladera Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. 91 points. I don’t pay much attention to these Cabs.

2014 La Jota Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain. VM 92. Graphite, smoke, incense, lavender, plum and sweet French oak hit the palate in La Jota’s 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon. Winemaker Chris Carpenter has done a tremendous job in crafting a Cabernet that is both deeply expressive of Howell Mountain, but with enough sweetness in the tannins and overall juiciness to drink well with minimal cellaring.

Landing spot for the next course.

Himalayan Salt Block Ribeye. Horseradish Crema. Great steak.

‘XO’ Garlic Fried Rice. Poached Egg, Pork Belly XO. So good!

We had to get more XO!

Kungpao Eggplants. Thai Basil, Thai red chili gastrique. Not as good as a great Szechuan version, but still enjoyable.

Steamed garlic broccoli.

Let the good times keep on rolling.

Oh boy — Calvados!

Coconut sorbet with blackberry. Not made by me. Intense coconut flavor. No dairy, so not super creamy.

Yarom with Catherine and a friend.

And Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos.

A trio of crazy gelatti I made:

Reimagining an old flavor Cocoa Samoa Gelato — Coconut dairy base, new super delicious formulation, house-made caramel and Valrhona chocolate ganache, with Girl Scout Samoas — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Crazy Choco Caramel Nostalgic Goodness! — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #Valrhona #coconut #caramel #samoas #girlscoutcookies

Chocolate Orange Pistachio Gelato — my classic 63% Valrhona chocolate base but with orange infused milk, and laced with house-made Bronte Pistachio Valrhona Gananche — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Just say it again: Bronte Pistachio Valrhona Ganache — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #Valrhona #pistachio #orange #chocolate

Moscow Mule Sorbetto — new highly technical sorbetto made with lime, cucumber, ginger beer, and Stoli Vodka — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — yeah, there is actually a lot of vodka in here — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #MoscowMule #lime #cucumber #GingerBeer #Stoli #vodka

Coconut Dream. Fresh Coconut Flakes, Rum Syrup, Creme Chantilly, Vanilla Creme Anglaise. This was a dream — loved it.

Warm Beignets. Vietnamese Coffee Creme Anglaise. Also great.

Chef Helene’s Classic Banana a La Mode. Turbinado Brulee, Baileys, Caramel, Tahitian Bean Ice Cream.

Pineapple Financier. Brown Butter, Oat Honey Streusel, Creme Fraiche Cremeux, Dole-Whip.

Warm Chocolate Cake, Raspberry, Vanilla Wafer which then

gets this made up:

Signature Table-Side Ice Cream. Nitro vanilla ice cream.

Pretty scrumptious.

Passion Fruit Pavlova. Pavlova, Tropical Fruit, Strawberry Gel, Coconut Sorbet.

Cheers!

And the crazy wine lineup.

Overall, this was a kingly evening. Boy did the Ans treat us right and we had an incredible menu, amazing service, and great wines.

Discussing the food analytically. Very good, and most dishes varied from good to great. Best being the fish, crab, and cigars (plus some of the desserts). The Vietnamese influence is far more subtle, less heavy handed, then at most newer fusion places like Little Sister / LXSO or the more contemporary small plates style Khong Ten. Definitely more roughly 2000 in formal fine dining style — which I don’t mind at all. In some ways it feels like a millennium event fine dining place with Vietnamese — and to a lesser extent Thai and Chinese — notes. It’s a pretty fancy place, and priced accordingly — but they do knock it out of the park.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!