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Author Archive for agavin – Page 54

Eating San Sebastian – Abakando

Jul20

Restaurant: Abakando

Location: Tolosa Hiribidea, 37, 20018 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Date: June 21, 2016

Cuisine: Spanish

Rating: Nice seafood

_

Another evening, another San Sebastian restaurant.

Again follow a friend’s recommendation we headed to Abakando. This was the only non starred “white tablecloth” restaurant we ate at in town.

The interior is very modern.

Menu.

After visiting Rioja I’ve been discovering the pleasures of Rioja Blanco.

Homemade croquettes txangurro. Stuffed with crab and some of the usual béchamel.

Tomato salad country, tuna and romescu.

Seafood soup with clams, cockles and shrimp. That rich local soup again.

Seasonal mushroom ravioli, prawn and Idiazabal cheese sauce. Really nice and cheesy.

Mushroom risotto seasonal. We were given the impression by the waitress that these were tiny portions and ordered two each. They were huge and stuffed us.

Black rice with aioli begi-haundi. This one was great, with a nice sweet brine.

Hake and fries.

Hake in green sauce with Galician marine clam. This is a very traditional dish, wand was quite lovely — too bad were were all so full.

DO Castilla Suckling lamb baked at low temperature. Not the most attractive meat, but tasty.

Overall, Abakando was tasty, but it filled a strange middle ground. It wasn’t as amazing and inventive as the starred places, nor as fun and casual as the tapas/pintxos bars. Plus, we drastically over ordered and were really stuffed.

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating San Sebastian – Atari
  2. Eating San Sebastian – Zuberoa
  3. Eating San Sebastian – Akelaŕe
  4. Eating San Sebastian – Baztán
  5. Eating San Sebastian – Zeruko
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Abakando, eating-spain, San Sebastian, Spanish Cuisine

Yamakase Summer

Jul18

Restaurant: Yamakase [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

Location: You wish you knew!

Date: July 8, 2016

Cuisine: Japanese

Rating: Best yet!

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Yamakase is just hands down one of the most fun evenings in LA. Not only is the “modern” Japanese cuisine incredible, but the convivial nature of the place is just great. It’s not very big and as usual we took the entire sushi bar (we had 10 this time, but you can squeeze in 11 or 12).

The location is in a good neighborhood, but something about this particular strip mall is a bit sketchy. Maybe it’s the 7/11. There are a lot of strange characters hanging about.

 Inside, chef Kiyoshiro Yamamoto rules over the sushi bar.

In the back there are a couple of small tables — but the bar is really where it’s at!

Have a little tuna/toro!

2000 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses. BH 95. This is more mature than the 2001 with a beautifully layered nose of yeast, lemon rind, brioche, dried flowers and spice hints. There is excellent volume and superb intensity to the firm mousse that despite the firmness exhibits a very fine bead. This is exceptionally impressive in the mouth with the same striking complexity of the nose coupled with positively gorgeous length. A knockout that could be drunk now with pleasure or held for a few more years first; personally I would opt for the latter but either way, this is a classic Clos des Goisses.

agavin: our bottle was delicious, but perhaps a touch advanced.

Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée. VM 94. The NV Grande Cuvée is absolutely stellar. This is one of the very best Grande Cuvées I can remember tasting. The flavors are bright, focused and beautifully delineated throughout, all of which make me think the wine will age well for many, many years. Lemon peel, white flowers, crisp pears, smoke and crushed rocks race across the palate in a vibrant, tense Champagne that epitomizes finesse. This release is based on the 2005 vintage and was disgorged in winter 2012/2013.

2000 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. BH 96. A wonderfully layered and nuanced nose features an intense yeasty character to the maturing fruit that displays interesting phenolic characters, in particular petrol, along with aromas of apple, pear and soft citrus hints. In contrast to the nascent maturity expressed by the nose the flavor profile is still tight and backward with a genuinely gorgeous texture, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent and highly complex finish. For my taste the 2000 Brut is at an inflection point as the nose does offer enough maturity so that it’s really quite pretty whereas the palate impression is substantially younger. As such it really just depends on how you prefer your Champagne because I suspect that the nose will be very mature by the time the still very youthful flavors attain their majority. For my taste preferences it would be no vinous crime to begin enjoying this now but be aware that this will age for a very long time. The best approach is probably to buy 6, or even 12, bottles and enjoy them over a longer period of time.
 Homemade tofu, Momotaro tomato, and uni. A “typical” Yamakase tofu dish. Great interplay of textures and flavors. I could even handle the tomato!

Persimmon butter sandwich with marcona almonds. This is an odd one, but delicious. The orange stripes are dried persimmon which has been hung to dry for months. This is a traditional Japanese New Year preparation and very highly prized. The lighter stripe is frozen high end butter! Almost like a little petite four.

1994 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Heimbourg Vendange Tardive. 93 points. Burnt creme brulee, dried apricot, carmelized peach/apricot in the pie tin; rich, creamy, full bodied with medium sweetness. Slight petrol-botrytis evident here (although not supposed to override varietal characteristics, I believe it does in this case); round, soft, but with overwhelming apricot notes; long finish.

From my cellar: 2009 Weingut Knoll Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg. VM 92. Medium green-yellow. Seductive aromas of ripe peach, subtle blossom honey and mandarin orange. Becomes more exotic in the mouth, adding papaya and lime to the mix. Sweet peach and papaya fruit is lifted by extraordinarily elegant lemony acidity. Finishes with palate-staining fruit and intense wet rock minerality. Wonderful to drink now, but should be even better between 2014 and 2024.

From my cellar: 2004 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune. VM 95. Pale, bright yellow. Ripe pineapple, liquid stone and exotic honey on the nose, with a spicy lift that suggests an oak influence this wine does not possess. On entry, this is sweeter and creamier than the Frederic Emile, but it livens up quickly in the middle, showing powerful minerality and sharply delineated flavors of liquid stone, pineapple and citrus peel. Still, this conveys a distinctly glyceral impression that suggests more sweetness than its 5 grams of residual sugar, no doubt a function of the 20% or so botrytized berries (in contrast to the Frederic Emile, which included no botrytis). Communicates an impression of power with elegance, finishing minerally and long but not austere. Pierre Trimbach compared this wine to the estate’s great 1990. This is already showing more Rosacker terroir than riesling character. About 9,000 bottles were made from 1.5 hectares of vines.

Abalone with eel sauce. The crunchy chewy mollusk simply served and delicious.

Mantis shrimp, baby peach, scallop, orange clam, and seaweed. I loved the sweet/tangy sauce too. Very lovely.

1996 Domaine Bernard Morey et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets. VM 93. Knockout nose combines herbs, white flowers and spiced pear; at once oily and precise. Rich-bordering-on-thick but given clarity by juicy limey acidity. Very long, palate-staining finish. The yield here was a good 50 hectoliters per hectare, says Morey. Yet this is so much more fleshy and pliant than so many ’96s.

2004 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte. BH 89. A deft touch of wood frames citrus and earth infused ripe chardonnay fruit aromas that lead to rich, full and fleshy flavors that are robust if not especially structured, all wrapped in a delicious and easy to like finish. There is good freshness here if not great underlying tension with fine overall balance and fine length. In sum, this is a generous and easy to like effort that should repay a few years in the cellar.

Oyster, uni, quail egg, caviar. One of these super Yamakase spoons of crazy umami-rich ingredients.

Roasted unagi with eel sauce and bamboo shoots. This was very fresh, light, and seasonal.

2006 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos. VM 96. Pale, bright yellow-green. Knockout nose combines ripe pineapple, dried fruits, lemon, lime, crushed stone, minerals and mint. A wine of outstanding intensity, power and thrust, with sappy mineral and toasted bread flavors saturating the palate. Most impressive today on the explosive, mounting, tactile finish, which leaves the mouth vibrating. This called to mind Corton-Charlemagne-or a great Austrian riesling. Winemaker Seguier loves this but feels that the 2004 is in the same quality league. And the 2007 is even more chalky, he adds.

From my cellar: 2002 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre. VM93+. Musky aromas of chicken broth, lime and crushed stone; quite austere and slow to open. Then less fruity but more important on the palate, with bracing flavors of lemon and apple and an impression of minerality I can only describe as creamy. A very rich, dense wine with a strength of material that belies the normal-for-Raveneau yield of about 50 hectoliters per hectare.

2009 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre. VM 93. The 2009 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre is super-impressive. There is a level of detail, nuance and energy to the fruit that is quite rare in 2009. The Montée de Tonnerre possesses dazzling purity all the way through to the finely articulated, chiseled finish. This is yet another superb effort from Raveneau. I have a slight preference for the 2010 here, but the 2009 will offer fabulous drinking while its younger sibling ages in the cellar.

Shrimp with tomatoes and parmesan. A new dish, and a delicious one. The tangy tomato/parm sauce was quite lovely.

Chef Yama works on his next course.

2001 Marc Colin et Fils Corton-Charlemagne. 92 points. Beautiful from the get go showing honey, roasted hazelnuts, some white chocolate, and a little tropical fruit. Reminded me of an Aubert Chardonnay in many ways. Nice mid weight…not a blockbuster but at the low end of outstanding.

2002 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne. VM 92+. Very subdued nose hints at apple, minerals and nutty oak. Then intensely flavored, penetrating and youthfully backward, with bracing flavors of apple, spiced pear and powdered stone. Very densely packed, spicy wine that’s currently dominated by its powerful spine. This needs a good five or six years to blossom in the bottle and may well merit a higher score.

Frozen toro, uni, and blue crab on toast. This toast and rich toro/crab combo is so good. Like a super high end version of a tuna sandwich.

Truffle, crab, quail egg, salmon egg, uni parfait. Classic Yamakase greatness. White truffles apparently this time of year. In December it was black.

From my cellar: 2001 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 93. While understandably tighter, this is still drinking much like the same wine in 750 ml format (see herein). An expressive and still quite fresh nose includes white flower, pronounced honey and exotic fruit aromas nuanced by spice hints flow seamlessly into a similar flavor profile on the thick, powerful and vibrant middle weight flavors yet that possess more than sufficient acidity to buffer the weight and richness. Overall, this is beautifully balanced, long and offers superb intensity and has everything it needs to continue a graceful evolution. As one would expect from magnum, this isn’t quite ready for prime time and while it could be drunk with pleasure, if you wish to see the wine at its optimum point of development, it will be necessary to wait for a few more years first.

2008 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 91-94. A subtle touch of pain grillé highlights citrus notes that, like the Pucelles, exhibit hints of honeysuckle and fennel nuances that complement perfectly the textured, rich and sweet medium plus weight flavors that are quite supple yet remain detailed, energetic and strikingly long on the explosive finish. This is a relatively powerful Bienvenues. In a word, terrific.

Orange clam and scallop in a dill sauce. A new treatment of some familiar ingredients. The dill sauce make for a different (and tasty) take on things.

Bluefin tuna, caviar. Some of the best chunks of tuna I’ve had.

From my cellar: 1985 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet. A little oxidized. Not premoxed, just getting old.

From my cellar: 2002 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot. VM 96. Taut, vibrant aromas of grapefruit, apple, pear, and powdered and wet stone. A great expression of rocks in the mouth, with extremely pure flavors of grapefruit and lemon. Conveys a powerful impression of sweetness allied to sheer energy. Fabulous, consistent wine with near-perfect balance and extraordinary length. As penetrating as it is today, I would not describe this wine as austere.

1999 Henri Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet. 94 points. Light yellow in color. A bit of hazelnut to start but also some wood and bitterness. About 6 hours later, the wood resolved and the wine expressed some pear, honey, and hazelnut. This was supported by plenty of lemon acidity. Still very young.

Foie gras, toro, quail egg, truffle cheese, blue crab. Wow! This dish was absolutely out of this world. Just crazy rich and delicious. You wouldn’t think it works, but it’s amazing.

King crab, steamed. Simple steamed fresh crab.

1998 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart. VH 95+. Bright ruby. Highly complex nose melds black raspberry, Indian spices, gunflint, tar and smoky oak; seemed to grow fresher and more vibrant with aeration. Dense, thick and highly concentrated, with brilliantly defined but still rather backward fruit flavors. Finishes with great length and extremely fine tannins that dust the entire mouth.

2002 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart. VM 95. Bright red-ruby. Highly nuanced, expressive nose combines strawberry, raspberry, minerals, lavender, chocolate, underbrush and fennel. Superconcentrated, silky and sweet in the mouth but with superb definition and energy. The wine’s sheer density of material completely buffers its 14+% alcohol. Finishes dry and classic, with explosive rising fruit and terrific thrust. The tannins are buried in fruit and soil tones. A great Burgundy

The chef is working on his ramen. Bright yellow eggy noodles.

Ultimate ramen bowl. This foie gras based seafood broth was topped with truffles and filled with yummy seafood bits. Underneath are the ramen noodles. There was crab, beef, oyster, and who knows what else in here. Absolutely stunning. So rich. So good. The broth had quite a white pepper kick too which was amazing.

1986 Joseph Drouhin Grands-Echezeaux. 94 points.

1996 Denis Mugneret Père et Fils Richebourg. BH 93. Subtly complex nose of leather, earth and dried grasses with delicious yet quite structured flavors and fine length. There is good sève and muscle underlying the flavors though the tannins are completely ripe and the wine should drink well over the medium term. This is not flamboyant or especially opulent yet it delivers plenty of character and quality in a refined, discreet style. I like this very much.

1953 Remoissenet Père et Fils Richebourg. 95 points. Domain release. Must have been reconditioned as it tasted crazy young (for a ’53).

Miyazaki beef with truffle pepper sauce. Melt in your mouth with a bit of pepper kick.

Some amazing sake!

Blue fin sushi. Bordering over to chu-toro. Just a lovely bit of sushi.

Amberjack. Amazing.

Sea bass. To die for.

Chu or O toro. Lethal. We had several pieces of this each.

Uber handroll. Uni, king crab, toro, shiso. You’ve never had a handroll quite like this powerhouse! Had two of these.

A small taste of baby peach sorbet. Super light and refreshing.

“Only” 25 bottles of wine. 10 people. Great stuff tonight too. No bad or spoiled wines. Stuff was great in all 4 categories: champ, white burg, red burg, and sake. Just some really stellar drinks.

There are different was to experience Yamakase, depending on you number, but all but one time I’ve taken the whole bar. On a night when the bar is split between a collection of smaller parties it might be more staid. But when we take over, it’s certainly not. We do the wine service ourselves for the most part with a little aide from the accommodating servers. It feels like a “private party with Yama.”

Food-wise, this was one of my best meals this year — really quite excellent — and regular readers know I have more than my share of great meals. A really great format. A total blow out and Yama’s cuisine keeps gaining in strength and power. Really quite incomparable. He is unquestionably a genius. Yama has a tremendous range within Japanese cuisine, first rate ingredients, and a savvy palate. He is quite skilled at very traditional more subtle Japanese as well, but has tuned up the typical Yamakase meal with high end ingredients and bolder combinations for a more contemporary wow factor.

Oh, and that toro cheese dish and foie gras “ramen” are just to die for.

Click here for more LA sushi reviews,
Or for Foodie Club extravaganzas.

Related posts:

  1. Sumo Bowl Yamakase
  2. Yamakase Yummy
  3. Yamakase – Burghound Bday
  4. Yamakase – Crab Guts are Yummy!
  5. Yamakase Return
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Burgundy, Foodie Club, Japanese cuisine, Kiyoshiro Yamamoto, kobe beef, Krug, Sushi, Truffle, White Burgundy, Wine, Yama, Yamakase

Eating Rioja – Terete

Jul15

Restaurant: Terete

Location: Calle Lucrecia Arana, 17, 26200 Haro, La Rioja, Spain

Date: June 21, 2016

Cuisine: Spanish

Rating: Great traditional lamb

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We drove up to Rioja for a day to tour some of the wineries (of course), namely López de Heredia and CVNE, and happened to ask the marketing director at López for a lunch recommendation.

She sent us to Terete for the roast lamb.

The menu.

They have one of those wood fired ovens like at Botin.

And the place is huge!

Of course, having just come from López I had to order some of their wine.

2002 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia. 93 points. First whiff is of honey, candlewax, bruised apples.
On the palate, apples, honey, chamomile tea, and that amazing thick, waxy texture that is just to die for. Finish is loooong, with a mouthwatering acidity that makes the oxidized notes be in balance. Really a lovely wine.

The bread.

A typical Spanish salad, with eggs, asparagus and the like.

Marinated red peppers.

Tortilla Espanola.

White asparagus. Big fellows.

Greens.

What we came for, the roast lamb. I’m not sure there were any other ingredients. Maybe some salt. Basically lamb slow roasted in its own juices. But this was same damn fine lamb, cooked up the way its been cooked for thousands of years! Super tender and moist and full of flavor.

Whiskey cake.

You got to pout this on.

Cafe bonbon. Expresso and chocolate and sweetened condensed milk.

Overall this was a fun little lunch. The lamb was spectacular and that’s what we came for.

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating San Sebastian – Baztán
  2. Eating Barcelona – Catalana
  3. Eating San Sebastian – Zuberoa
  4. Eating Barcelona – Montiel
  5. Eating San Sebastian – Atari
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: eating-spain, haro, lamb, rioja, Spanish Cuisine, Terete

Eating San Sebastian – Atari

Jul13

Restaurant: Atari

Location: Calle Mayor, 18, 20013 San Sebastian, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Date: June 19 & 23, 2016

Cuisine: Spanish Tapas

Rating: The best traditional tapas we had in San Seb

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San Sebastian is packed with tapas & pintxos bars, but the quality varies wildly from okay to awesome. We had the most success using recommendations from Foodie friends who had visited in previous years, even though a good percentage of the top bars were “mysteriously” closed for vacation.

Atari was on the recommended list and is located adjacent to the entrance to the big baroque church.

The interior is typical and there is an extensive patio as well.

El menú.

Typical bread.

I find Albarino, even this so-so one, to be a fabulous tapas

Atari has a counter full of pintxos. We didn’t really focus on these, but here are a couple.

Grilled tuna with cream of marmitako and vinaigrette.

Marinated white anchovies with crushed pepper. I just love these tangy little fish.

Fried green padron peppers. Salty but good.

White tuna pickled, green peppers, anchovies, and olives. This is a to die for set of marinated goodness. I particularly love the olives and the mildly spicy skinny green peppers.

Home-cured salmon with a horseradish cream. Like little sashimi cubes.

Salmon tartar. There was something sauced in here that led to a very interesting and addictive flavor.

Pate of foie gras on toast. Tasted as good as it looks.

Tomato salad.

Cod croquettes. Declared the best croquetas of the trip.

Patatas bravos. Above they appear as patatas frito.

This is the bravos part. Personally I prefer the orange potent sauce and covering the potatoes.

Fried calamari with confited garlic aioli. Great example. Nice chewy strips and great fry.

Scrambled eggs.

Some Rioja Blanca to step up the white wine.

Oyster mushrooms ravioli with foie gras sauce. We ordered 4 orders of these!

Grilled octopus with bravos sauce, potatoes, and onions. I feel bad about eating octopus (it’s a smart animal) but this one tasted so good — and actually the bravos sauce and veggies was even better.

Grilled foie gras with white chocolate and sweetcorn cream. Just amazing.

Rice of the day. Basically a chicken paella. I think it had chicken skin in there.

Hake with seasonal sauce.

Beef cheek with… (like mom’s beef stew — super tender)

mashed potato.
 Plate of Spanish cheeses.

Overall, the group consensus was that Atari was the best “straight up regular” restaurant we went in the San Sebastian area. The dishes actually tasted better than most of the modern tapas. We weren’t comparing to the Michelin level restaurants, as it’s a totally different thing, although it was tastier than Mugaritz. haha. More on that later.

Basically the dishes are contemporary traditional, but the execution is superlative. Tons of flavor. Good ingredients. All that.

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating San Sebastian – Baztán
  2. Eating San Sebastian – Akelaŕe
  3. Eating San Sebastian – Zeruko
  4. Eating San Sebastian – Zuberoa
  5. Eating Barcelona – Paco Meralgo
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Atari, eating-spain, San Sebastian, Spanish Cuisine, Tapas

Eating San Sebastian – Zuberoa

Jul11

Restaurant: Zuberoa

Location: Araneder Bidea, Barrio Iturriotz, s/n, 20180 Oiartzun, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Date: June 18, 2016

Cuisine: Basque

Rating: Really tasty and effective (1 Michelin star)

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We rented a lovely house outside of San Sebastian in the Basque Country town of Oiartzun — and turns out, it has a 1 Michelin star restaurant of its own, a mere 200 yards from the house.


Zuberoa is located in a charming 600 year old building! The same family has owned it for several hundred years and it was originally a tavern.

Above is part of the main dining room.

And they also have this lovely patio, which was packed on Saturday night and a smoker’s paradise.

The tasting menu.

Cava to start.

An amuse of foie gras with cherry reduction.

This was insanely good. The dollop on top was like a maple syrup foam and together with the cherry lent it a sweet, rich, candy-like quality.

Sea urchin royal to the fennel flavor. A sort of foam of fennel and urchin. Delicious too.

Lobster salad, its coral vinegar and lemon. Just a little lobster here. “Coral” must be the roe.

2006 Pazo de Señoráns Albariño Rías Baixas Selección de Añada. VM 93. Aged for 34 months on its lees in stainless steel tanks. Vivid yellow-gold. Highly complex bouquet of candied citrus fruits, almond paste, white flowers, smoky lees and minerals. Bitter orange pith and pear skin flavors gain sweetness with air and pick up an exotic floral nuance. Rich yet lively wine with superb finishing power and mineral-driven persistence. This singular wine is ready to drink and should hold well for at least another five years.

Poached cod fish to the olive oil with brandad, its skin sauce and its jelly´s crispy.

Spider crab and prawns ravioli in his broth. An awesome little rav.

Scallop, cauliflower and spring mushrooms (zizas) emulsion with brazed endive.

Confited cod fish chin, brandad and “Vizcaina” sauce. This part of the cod fish is super special and a specialty of the area. It has a particular gelatinous texture that is very prized. My extensive Chinese dining has prepared me for such culinary travels.

Egg yolk spring-like. A really delicious egg prep with a fascinating textural combination. The green was somewhat like a pea soup.

Roasted anglerfish and stir friend squid tallarine. Very nice piece of meaty fish. We googled the anglerfish and had quite the laugh at his hideous countenance.

Steamed hake with its pil-pil and pickled yellow peppers.

1981 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva. JG 96. This was certainly a great older Rioja. No decant but allowed it to evolve over hours. Garnet color consistent with previous, very little fading. There is an earthiness and attractive mustiness on the nose with surprisingly bright raspberry and strawberry. Palate brings light cherry and raspberry, warm spring earth, and pleasing umami flavors. Still enough of a tannic backbone to lend sufficient structure to the melange. This bottle would have still had many years of life ahead of it. If only every bottle performed this well.

Fried hake and French fries was enjoyed by my son.

Roast pigeon, liver toast and turnip filled up with mushrooms.

Roasted lamb ribs. Some very flavorful tender lamb ribs. Almost like lamb/veal.

Peach and passion fruit “ crème brûlée “ with raspberry ice-cream.

Pineapple sorbet coat in fermented coconut milk..
 Confited cherries, lemon thyme flavored with its own sorbet and Danish cookie. Pretty awesome fresh in-season cherry prep.

Chocolate, coffee, and banana set and orange nappage.

Alex enjoys his chocolate gelato!

Some finishers.

Overall, Zuberoa was really quite lovely. The food was varied, very Basque in style, and supremely tasty. While still modern in style it was a little less “wild” than the 2 and 3 star places we dined at, but in many ways this made it more approachable. Service was fabulous and they easily accommodated our varied party and even our young son. Plus it was quite reasonable by the standards of such an elaborate and fantastic meal.

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating San Sebastian – Akelaŕe
  2. Eating San Sebastian – Baztán
  3. Eating San Sebastian – Zeruko
  4. Eating Saigon – Hoa Tuc
  5. Eating Barcelona – Hoja Santa
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Basque cuisine, eating-spain, Michelin 1 Star, San Sebastian, Spanish Cuisine, Zuberoa

Eating San Sebastian – Zeruko

Jul08

Restaurant: Bar Zeruko

Location: Arrandegi Kalea, 10, Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Date: June 17, 2016

Cuisine: Modernist Pintxos

Rating: Funky Zoo

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At the zenith of craziness on the mountain of “typical pintxos format” is Bar Zeruko which serves up an individually plated bread of modernist pintxos.

This is awesome for 2 people popping in for a drink and a bite to eat — but on a busy Friday night with 7 people a meal is a bit of “an experience.”

Let me explain how Zeruko works. While some of your party crams around a spare stool or two — likely in 2-3 separate clusters far from each other — you elbow your way into the fantastically crowded bar. There, after trying your best impersonation of a hot 23 year-old 100 pound girl (doesn’t work so well at twice that age & weight not to mention the wrong gender) you attempt to gain eye contact with one of the two extraordinarily overworked bartenders. After accomplishing this miracle, you might order a drink and ask for a plate — albeit a tiny one. You then load up your plate with appealing looking confections without any regard to what they might actually be. If you are lucky the bartender will take back your plate and then proceed, after some extended length of time, to individually cook, plate, and dress each item. These will be serially thrust back at you and you can offer them to your companions to eat while standing.

How the staff actually manages to prep these things in such short order (meanwhile serving drinks) is also a miracle.

Oh, and how they keep track of what you ordered? You can pay much latter after multiple such orders and I never saw a pencil or other recording device. I suspect they “lose” 10% of all the pintxos served.

In any case, on to the food. Unfortunately the insane crowds didn’t really allow me to photograph the plated dishes, which is a shame because they looked rather lovely. Here are some in their larval formal, before cooking, prepping, and dressing.

Fruity gel ball? Hard to tell what this was other than it was sweet and had a somewhat jelly-like texture. It was good though.

Below was a peppers, cheese, and egg pintxos.

You can see mushrooms, sliders, and the like.

These foie gras wrapped in chocolate gel with truffles. On toast, of course. Rich and super yummy.
 A seafood something on a dry ice cone. It’s really sad that I didn’t capture more of the creative and whacky output. Sigh.

Overall, I really needed to come back to Zeruko during a quiet lunch or something — with no more than 3 people. If I had, I’m sure I would have been able to pick, photograph, and sample their wares much more effectively. I actually tasted about 15 pintxos the night I went, and many of them were delicious, and most looked very cool, but the chaotic nature of the “scene” and the demand of two different groups of family to be supplied with new dishes made it impossible to document.

If you are in San Sebastian I recommend you try it yourself. Just don’t go with a big group!

For more Eating Spain dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating San Sebastian – Baztán
  2. Eating San Sebastian – Akelaŕe
  3. Eating Rome – Metamorfosi
  4. Eating Barcelona – Catalana
  5. Eating Barcelona – Paco Meralgo
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Bar Zeruko, eating-spain, pintxos, San Sebastian, Tapas, Zeruko

Eating San Sebastian – Akelaŕe

Jul06

Restaurant: Akelaŕe

Location: Paseo Padre Orcolaga, 56, 20008 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Date: June 16, 2016

Cuisine: Modern Spanish Gastronomic (Michelin 3 star!)

Rating: Amazing. Playful and delicious

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Akelaŕe is the first of the “big guns” in our dining schedule.

3 Michelin stars and helmed by Pedro Subijana, this is a world class dining establishment in every respect.

The view alone is a stunner, perched on the cliff tops of the amazingly beautiful Basque countryside about 15 minutes west of San Sebastian.

No drama here.

The dining room floats above the Atlantic.

The view from our table most decidedly set expectations.

Akelaŕe currently offers three different tasting menus, two current and one more of a “best of” from the restaurant’s long history (it’s the same age as me, having been founded in 1970 and climbed from 1 star in ’78 to 2 in ’82 to 3 in ’07).

Cava to start — always!

This “dish” served as an amuse for our 7 year-old son. It wins hands down for presentation. Sort of “bathroom” themed it consists of a number of playful items. A toast in which the “liquid soap” is used as a condiment. A cheese dish disguised as face cream, and a Shirley Temple in a cough syrup bottle! Great fun.

A tomato amuse. Even I, tomato hater that I am, enjoyed it.

A sort of ravioli, or unusual skin of food with one of those “caviar” not made from fish eggs. A kind of ajo blanco underneath. I remember it being delicious.

Reconstructed olives. These looked like olives, and somewhat tasted of them, but were reconstructed out of olive paste mixed with something else. They were delicious.
 Fried zucchini “chips”.

Mussel fritters. Like a fried mussel, but in croquette-like ball form.

Bread, of course.

2012 Tricó Rías Baixas. 89 points. Light golden color; floral notes and lemon zest on the nose. Lively and fresh on the palate. Good acidity. Medium light body. This is pleasant to drink, very crisp and food friendly wine.

Cubed tear green Peas. The center batch is in an edible “plastic” bag.

Then a pea soup is added.

Lobster salad with Cider Vinegar. No shortage of lobster here! Particularly considering this is just 1 course in a big tasting menu.

White asparagus meringue. Smores anyone?

Pasta, Piquillo and Iberico Carpaccio, Mushrooms and Parmesan. This alternate version of the classic Italian carpaccio has the “meat” replaced with a pasta. It did look and taste pretty meaty, but pasta like at the same time.

Prawns cooked in “Orujo” Fire. Not quite sure what the fire part was, but this was a delicious prawn.

And in a very Japanese style, it also came with the fried head. Bugs of the sea!

This bread took on an “interesting” shape.

Hake in Seaweed steam. Plancton and Oyster Leaf.

Very thin and Light Beef Tartare and…

new Potato Soufflé and Aromatic Herb Bread.

The leaves and the Foie under the rain.

Okay the name was a little confusing. It had “salt and pepper” on top — except it wasn’t salt and pepper but I think a sugar and and some kind of chocolate maybe? Hard to say, but it was delicious and a huge chunk of foie.

2013 Ossian. 90 points. An unusual heavier Spanish white.

Rice with Snails and Periwinkles in Tomato and Basil film. Sounds funny, but was delicious. Tasted like some kind of Chinese fried race, maybe a snail sausage fried rice!

Whole-Grain Red Mullet with Sauce “Fusili”.

One of the fusili, which was some kind of corkscrew of sugar? filled with a broth. Interesting. Wasn’t oily or fishy like many red mullet preps too.

I’m not sure what this dish was. May have been mushroom.

“Desalted” Cod Box with Shavings. It just comes in the box.

It was plated like this and basically like a nice piece of cod.

Sea Bass “UMAMI”.

The “Umami” was this separate grouping of stuff that you could put on the seabass to add, you guessed it, umami. I think it was made of anchovies and other bits like that.

2006 Bodegas Muga Rioja Gran Reserva Prado Enea. VM 92. raised in large oak vats for a year, followed by three years in small, used American oak barrels): Dark ruby. Highly fragrant scents of redcurrant, dried cherry, pipe tobacco, leather and rose oil. Lively and precise on the palate, offering deeply pitched red fruit and floral pastille flavors and a hint
of black pepper. The youthfully tight finish features excellent clarity and lingering spiciness.

Roasted Pigeon with a Touch of Mole and Cocoa. The thing on the left was a kind of cookie with spiced pigeon meat inside — delicious.
 Closer picture because this pigeon was SO GOOD. Just amazing. Tender rare meat, and an awesome rich mole sauce.

Carved Beef, Tail Cake “Potatoes and Peppers”.

The Tail Cake in focus. Like a meat tiramisu.

Some dessert amuses.

Melting Cupcake. Like a semi-fredo.

Xaxu and Foaming Coconut Ice Cream. The styrofoam looking stuff tasted like coconut gelato.

Gin & Tonic on a plate.

The Broken Jar of Yogurt, “Gatzatua” and Berries. This won the cool look award for the night. Everything was edible! It was made of yogurt too.

The different Apple Tart. I don’t know what the “plastic” was made of, but it was edible (and good).

The inside was basically a perfect crunchy apple tart like pastry. Really quite awesome.

Some various petite fours.

This was an amazing meal. The style at Akelaŕe seems to be playful reinterpretations of classic French/Spanish/Italian dishes. It uses modernist techniques, but not so heavily as to distort the dish into unfoodlike forms. And most importantly, the dishes retain solid flavor profiles with balance. They don’t always taste exactly like you’d expect, but they taste good and in the “frequency range” of whatever dish roll they serve in the meal. I.e. a savory, while perhaps having sweet notes, still tastes like a savory. As general rule the dishes are also complex, involving multiple ingredients working in harmony, but the chef has a fabulous sense of pairing and I don’t remember anything with a jarring or off-putting combinations as is sometimes a problem in extreme modernism.

Setting, as you can see, was magnificent, as was service. Not only were they extremely attentive, but they easily dealt with several different dietary rule sets, including our young son.

Certainly a worthy three star experience. Akelaŕe is crafting cutting edge food that sings on the palate.

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating San Sebastian – Baztán
  2. Eating Barcelona – Mian
  3. Eating Orvieto – Maurizio
  4. Eating Senigallia – Uliassi
  5. Eating Rome – La Pergola
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Akelare, Akelarre, eating-spain, Michelin 3 Star, Michelin Guide, San Sebastian, Spanish Cuisine

Eating San Sebastian – Baztán

Jul04

Restaurant: Baztán

Location: Portu Kalea, 8, 20003 San Sebastián-Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Date: June 16, 2016

Cuisine: Pintxos

Rating: “Straight up” Basque Tapas

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I’m choosing to use Baztán as a sort of light introduction to San Sebastian tapas — in part because of its normality.

San Seb is packed with Pintxos bars. Dozens upon dozens of them and they vary wildly in style, quality, and crowds. Baztán is a pretty typical type.

First of all, the offerings are dominated by straight up pintxos (stuff on pieces of bread). These, for the most part, sit on the counter. You grab a plate (or 2) and load up as many as you like, then hand it to a bar keep along with your drink order. If something needs heating he’ll do that. Most things here don’t and usually they are eaten pretty much as they sit on the bar. Let’s look at some examples.

Salmon and cream, salmon and anchovies, tortilla espanola, fried fish, seafood salad and anchoives, egg, peppers & anchovies, etc.

Peppers and olives, seafood salad, octopus, cheesy scallop, ham & goat cheese, fried thingy, chorizo, egg, and pepper.

More salmon, mushrooms & eggs, gazpacho, peppers, etc.

More fried stuff, black pudding!

Sangria.

Flan. Quite a nice one actually.

And lots of pictures of the bar.

More.

And even more.

There are some funny things on bread, like stacked meat balls, a couple sausages and even skewered French fries pinioned to the toasts! See the chorizo and fries on the right!

Here are the meatballs. Some shrimp, steak tartar etc.

The desserts.
 Straight pintxos like this is a funny cuisine. First of all, if the bar is crowded at all it’s sort of a nightmare: Nowhere to eat, very hard if you have a large party. 1-2 people, no problem, you just grab some stuff when you order your drink. 8, that can be a challenge! There is also no particular rhyme or reason to the distribution of plates (sometimes they are at the bar, sometimes you ask the bartender) or a mechanism for getting his attention so you can pay, order, etc. I found it much like a crowded club bar.

Then there is the pintxos themselves. They certainly taste very good, and you can pick what you want to try by looks and in small increments, but I soon tired of all those slices of thick French bread. I’m not the sort to eat 10-15 slices of bread! So I ate about 2 and then resorted to eating the toppings off. Felt kinda like eating the fish off the rice at all-you-can-eat sushi.

Still, this was a fun and tasty experience, and a good intro as we delve later into more exotic tapas/pintxos formats.

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Barcelona – Catalana
  2. Eating Barcelona – Paco Meralgo
  3. Eating Barcelona – Mian
  4. Eating Barcelona – Ca l’Isidre
  5. Eating Barcelona – Montiel
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Baztán, eating-spain, pintxos, San Sebastian, Spanish Cuisine, Tapas

Eating Barcelona – Hoja Santa

Jul01

Restaurant: Hoja Santa

Location: Av. de Mistral, 54, 08015 Barcelona, Spain. +34 933 48 21 94

Date: June 14, 2016

Cuisine: Modern Mexican

Rating: elBuli Mexicana

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Ever since Jak 3 caused me to have to give up the reservation I had at elBuli, I’ve wanted to experience the legendary Adria cuisine. Supposedly the Spanish style of this is most closely reflected in Albert Adrià’s Tickets — but seeing as that was nearly impossible to get a reservation for, our party of 8 went instead to Adrià’s modernist Mexican, Hoja Santa.

The Barcelona frontage.

On a parklike street.

The interior is casual and slightly kitchy. The website describes the restaurant thusly:

We love Mexico, and the way its gastronomy is a fundamental part of the country. HOJA SANTA is a homage and compliment to this culture, for this reason Albert Adrià and Paco Méndez have collaborated on an adventure into the creation of a restaurant in Barcelona, to share the flavours and traditions of Mexico. The name HOJA SANTA came from a journey made by the chefs Albert and Paco to Oaxaca. Here they were inspired by the Oaxaca leaf which also goes by the names acuyo, momo, hierba santa or tlanepa and is often used in cooking in the region.

Margarita. An unusual one too with a complex blend of fruit and herby flavors.

Margarita with salt foam. The traditional salt crystals have been infused into the foam.

Passionfruit and chocolate. Another interesting drink.

Pickles. Marinated onions, carrots, cucumbers, etc. Real nice crunch and a strong vinegar flavor.

Banana crisps and leaves. The crisps were quite spicy with a punchy “green chili” flavor. The leaves were sweet and crispy, almost like basil. Very enjoyable.

Chilled mango with herbs. More interesting fruit / herb combos.

Green chili. A delicious bright (and quite hot) tomatillo based salsa.

Cantine olives. The “classic” elBuli modernist olives, with a slight twist. In case you haven’t been to a Jose Andres or Adrià restaurant, these are olive puree suspended in calcium alginate spheres. The juice pops in your mouth. These weren’t just olive, but had a bit of tasty chili in there too.

Cornbread with chia and coffee caviar. The cornbread is the corn shaped thing. The caviar had a hint of spice. Extremely light and fluffy with a bit of taste of char. Very interesting. As a side note, they seem to love chia in Spain.

Avocado gazpacho. As good as you would imagine, and drunk right out of the avocado skin.

2014 Parés Baltà Syrah Penedès Rosé Radix. 90 points. Very unusual “powerful” deep red Syrah rose. Extremely nice and perfect with this cuisine.

Chicken skin caesar. A little bite size “caesar salad” on a bit of fried chicken skin. Neat.

A vegetarian replacement, one of those little edible packets filled with stuff.

Barbecue Jicara. A Jicara is a Mexican round pot, and this refers to the green corn shell. The meat was some kind of unusual cut and very soft, rich, and succulent with a bit of spices.

A vegetarian version with a corn “bowl” filled with some kind of white root vegetable.

Make your own quesadillas. Some gooey melted cheese.

Fresh corn tortillas.The cheese is scooped into the tortillas.

Ceviche under a frozen pond. A mix of cold balls of some kind of fish, radish or similar sorbet, flowers, etc, in a lovely cold lime broth. Very interesting dessert-like array of textures and temperatures, but with the ceviche flavors.

Pinenut pipian with white asparagus. Very nutty with a paste of pinenut (much like tahini) and the fresh white asparagus (the season is just wrapping up). Lovely.

Stuffed squash blossom taco. Pretty much the taco version of the classic Roman ricotta stuffed squash blossom.

Pipian papanteco with king crab. This rich curry-like sauce was made from who knows what. It was thick and delicious. There were also chunks of pistachio for texture and blobs and blobs of king crab. This was an awesome dish. The only disadvantage was a blob that landed on (and stained) one of my favorite shirts. We shall see if the dry cleaners can get it out.

Vegetable salad. Mixed marinated vegetables.

Fish taco. Fried hake nuggets and cucumber in a taco.

I wanted a red on the softer side to complement the food well and the excellent somm recommended with very unusual but really awesome Spanish Grenache — nothing like the typical deep purple Grenache, but more ruby/pinot like.

2012 Viñedos Bernabeleva Vinos de Madrid Bernabeleva Arroyo del Tórtolas. VM 92+. Brilliant ruby-red. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes Asian spices, raspberry, potpourri and smoky minerals. Extremely tight on the palate, offering vibrant red fruit and floral pastille flavors and a jolt of blood orange. Opens up slowly on the finish, which clings with excellent tenacity and silky, harmonious tannins. This one should age slowly.

Pistachio pipian with sea cucumber. This somewhat similar sauce to above was more tangy. The sea cucumber has an odd texture like always, but that didn’t matter with the yummy sauce.

Onion with…

Some kind of sauce.

And a second sauce, with some chili in it.

Morels with Ocosingo cheese cream. Wow these were good. Fresh morels in a kind of cheesy cream sauce.

This was a meat dish, and delicious, but I can’t remember exactly what was in it. There were these noodle like things too. Possibly it was: Cochinita pibil infladita (slow roast pork).

Puffs with some vegetable substitute inside. Airly and supposedly delicious.

2013 Acústic Celler Montsant Braó. Moving up to a beefier much more purple Grenache.
 The chefs at work in the kitchen.

Meat empanada. Delicious.

Foie gras and duck taco with Manchanteles mole. Amazing taco. Super rich with that big blob of foie but tons of flavor.

Veracruzana style Skate.

Here is the salsa Veracruz, with that tangy tomatillo flavor. The skate texture is “odd.”

Bresse quail, “Like Water for Chocolate.”

Then covered in ashed mole of roses. Awesome dish. In many ways a classic chicken mole, but with a nice subtle rose flavor and totally awesome.

Ashed mole of roses with vegetables.

Herbal popsicle. Delicious and refreshing. This kitchen uses a lot of herbs in non traditional (by conventional Euro/American standards), but obviously drawing from Mexican tradition. However, the Romans used these kinds of pairings all the time.

Pumpkin seed palanqueta. A tad dry.

Margarita with coconut cloud. Another light and delicious dessert.

2013 L’Olivera Cooperativa Costers del Segre Rasim Vimadur Negre. Some dessert wine.

Corn, chocolate, and cajeta. The “corn” was actually corn ice cream in corn shape. Pretty awesome.

Dragon fruit, lichi, and red pickly pear. Interesting frozen bonbons!

Mayan zero, coffee, cheese, and cinnamon. Little bits of puffy flavor.

The check came in this Mexican painted gourd.
 Overall, an awesome meal. Decided very serious Mexican in flavors — actually a more formal type of Mexican we don’t get that much of in LA (where we have so many casual and Baja style places). It probably draws more on traditional high end cooking from Mexico City and Oaxaca, but then introduces modernist plating and techniques. These however, served onto to make the dishes more fun and playful, as they didn’t distract at all from the complex but harmonious flavors. Even the 2-3 vegetarians in our party loved this meal — and they normally don’t like Mexican. So double thumbs up!

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Barcelona – Ca l’Isidre
  2. Eating Santa Margherita – Antonios
  3. Eating Barcelona – Montiel
  4. Eating Santa Margherita – Pizzeria Santa Lucia
  5. Eating Barcelona – Catalana
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Barcelona, eating-spain, elBuli, Hoja Santa, Mexican cuisine

Eating Barcelona – Catalana

Jun29

Restaurant: Cerveseria Catalana

Location: Carrer de Mallorca, 236, 08008 Barcelona

Date: June 14, 2016

Cuisine: Catalonian Tapas

Rating: Excellente!

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Not only was this place recommended on Chowhound, but my parents independently “blundered” into it and loved it.

So I had to go back and try it with them.

Very “typical” super upscale Barcelona Tapas bar scene with a gorgeous wood interior.

And lots of sit at the counter space.

The layout of “white” salad (consisting of stuff in mayo).

A lot of the tapas are out in a halfway prepped form.

And more.

And seafood.

And veggies.

And pinchos (stuff on bread) like these croqueta.

On anchovies and peppers.

Or walnut cheese spread and pineapple.

Or these amazing salmon and cream cheese.

And of course, Jamon.

Or Jamon with other stuff, like peppers.

Mushrooms can be selected and cooked up together.

More types, including mushrooms with Jamon (capitalized because in Spain, Jamon is a proper noun).

Boquerones en vinagre. One of my favorite traditional tapas. Super fresh here with that nice tang.

Crab salad on toast. Like an upscale spanish version of a Subway “seafood salad” sandwich.
 Salmon and cream cheese or cream fraiche. Awesome.
 Jamon.
 Tomato bread.

Steamed shrimp. Super fresh and tasty with that bright briny flavor.

Sautéed mushrooms. Colon sweeper! Yummy with garlic and olive oil.

Asparagus with sea salt.

Duck cannelloni. This is the raw form. They cooked it up.

To this amazing, rich, béchamel wonder! Soft and creamy.

Coconut flan. To die for.

And cappuccino.
 There was even a dessert bar.

Overall, Catalana was fabulous. Very straight up, nothing too modernist or anything, but really good, really fresh Catalonian tapas and a great atmosphere.

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Barcelona – Paco Meralgo
  2. Eating Barcelona – Ca l’Isidre
  3. Eating Barcelona – Montiel
  4. Eating Barcelona – Mian
  5. Jaleo Bethesda
By: agavin
Comments (4)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Barcelona, Catalana, eating-spain, Spanish Cuisine, Tapas

Eating Barcelona – Ca l’Isidre

Jun27

Restaurant: Ca l’Isidre

Location: Carrer de les Flors, 12, 08001 Barcelona

Date: June 13, 2016

Cuisine: Catalonian

Rating: Awesome, best we had in Barcelona

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This traditional family run Ctaalonian resteraunt I found off Chowhound and was recommended by many as one of the best in the city.

Classic city exterior.

A classic but updated interior.

The Menu.

A round of Cava to start.

Followed quickly by some Albarino. This crisp white from the corner of Spain above Portugal has turned out to be one of my favorite start whites and is a perfect tapas wine as well. This specific bottle was the 2013 Tricó Rías Baixas.

Bread with tomato. My son likes this classic.

Croquette with chicken and ham.

Anchovie from Cantabria. The salty kind.

An elaborate bread box.

Bread. Olive and rosemary I think.

Seabass tartar with parsley oil. A lovely “western” tataki or even a poke if you like. Soft fish and nice parsley notes almost like a pesto.
 Toasts to go with the tartar.

Tomato salad with onion, capers and tuna. Classic Catalonian salad.

“Gazpacho” Vegetables cold soup with lobster and sea fruits. Before the soup…

And after. This turned out to be one of the best gazpachos I have ever had. It wasn’t super vinegary, but had an exquisite balance.

Simple pasta for “the boy.”

And accompaniments of cheese and red sauce.

Olive oil.

Langostin raviolis with lime and ginger vinaigrette. Deliciously light and aromatic with a serious spa vibe from the flowers and herbs.

Morel mushrooms with duck liver cream. Rich and stunningly delicious. Fresh morels too, in season, and that duck liver sauce… oh my.

2013 Ferrer Bobet Priorat Denominacio d’Origen Qualificada. An unusual blend for priorat, big and grapey.

Fries. You can find them at almost any Spanish restaurant, from street corner to Michelin 3 star.

Grilled wild turbot with potatoes and garlic.

Codfish with “romesco” sauce.

Beef tartar. Surprisingly spicy. Lots of capers too. The meat was very good but the spice was a touch distracting.

Roast baby goat with small onions. Very tender (for goat) and decently strong.

Fillet of beef grilled.

Fries and crisps (for the tartar).

A selection of Spanish cheeses!

Vanilla ice cream.

Apricot tatin with milk ice cream. Very nice “cobbler.”

Eggs with chocolate fondant and sabayon with rum. The sabayon was inside the egg with the chocolate at the bottom. Yum! Didn’t quite get that interesting Marsala/citrus blend that my favorite Zabione gelato gets – but still deliciously eggy.

Catalan cream with burned sugar. Consistently a little looser than creme brule. Same flavor, but I prefer the firmer custard (or even flan).

Chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream. Several of us thought this was the best chocolate souffle we have ever had. It was VERY intense though and perhaps needed even more ice cream (not pictured).

Coconut milk ice cream with toffee. These not only looked cool, but were awesome — ice you like coconut ice cream (which I do). Basically coconut ice cream rolled in coconut and then (optionally) dipped in toffee.
 Gels and little cakes.

There was some contention in the group about Ca l’Isidre, with the pescatarian contingent not feeling the love and the rest of us thinking they knocked it out of the park — particularly with the starters and desserts. This is basically classic Catalonian as far as I can tell, with a touch of modern prep and presentation. The execution and ingredients though were really top top notch. Many dishes (like the gazpacho and morels) were really singing.

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Barcelona – Paco Meralgo
  2. Eating Barcelona – Montiel
  3. Eating Barcelona – Mian
  4. Eating Senigallia – Uliassi
  5. Eating Positano – il Tridente
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Barcelona, Ca l'Isidre, Catalonian cuisine, eating-spain, Spanish Cuisine

Eating Barcelona – Mian

Jun24

Restaurant: Mian

Location: Carrer de Girona, 49, 08009 Barcelona

Date: June 12, 2016

Cuisine: Chinese

Rating: Tolerable Chinese

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On this Sunday night we didn’t have a prearranged reservation and so did a quick internet search not long before. Having had a bunch of straight Spanish food we picked a place that appealed to be “Asian influenced tapas.”

Mian turned out to be more or less straight up Chinese food with portion sizes adjusted for the Spanish market. But my loyal readers know, I’m a fan of Chinese food so let’s see how this Barcelona version stacked up.

Fairly modern interior.

The menu.

We ordered this rose, which turned out to pair well.

Seaweed salad.
 Curried shrimp rolls. These springroll like things were one of the better appetizers. Hot and fried, they had a nice mild curry flavor.

Xiangsu battered ribs. Little pork riblets deeply fried. VERY fried, and with lots of gristle and bone. tasted pretty good though.

XLB. The classic pork dumplings. Coating was way too heavy and the filling had very little flavor.

Shrimp dumplings. Better than the pork, but still not amazing.

Vegetable Noodles. Sort of a lo-mein. Passable.

Beef noodle soup.

Vegetable fried rice. Ok.

Shrimp noodle soup.

Garlic eggplant. A mushy somewhat mediocre version of this dish. Not that garlicky or spicy. Not horrible or anything, but nowhere near a great version — and I’ve had some great versions.

Crispy noodles with seafood. Edible, but not like the amazing Elite Seafood version.

Mapo tofu. MSG laden non spicy version of this classic. If I’m going to take the MSG hit, I’ll go for it like this. Or make it myself.

Sir fried chicken. Simple, but one of the more effective dishes.

Beef with scallions. Soft and tasty meat. Pretty good.

Duck Conbao. Not bad, not great.
 Egg fried rice. Is what it is.

So Mian ended up being a middling Chinese place — kind of like Westside Chinese with slightly smaller portions. Prices were reasonable and it was fun enough, but they used lots of MSG and I had a big headache an hour latter. So, since I’m spoiled with great Chinese it was just acceptable — because Chinese is rarely so bad as to be awful.

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Barcelona – Paco Meralgo
  2. Eating Barcelona – Montiel
  3. XLB – Soup Dumplings!
  4. Eating Hoi An – Brothers Cafe
  5. Lunasia Dim Sum
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Barcelona, Chinese cuisine, eating-spain, Mian

Eating Barcelona – Montiel

Jun22

Restaurant: Montiel

Location: Calle Flassaders, 19, 08003 Barcelona

Date: June 11, 2016

Cuisine: Catalan

Rating: Great meal

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For my birthday, we decided to “upscale” from tapas to Montiel, a gastronomic recommended by my pal Sebastian (and also extremely highly rated online).

 The frontage on a tiny cute street in an older quarter. You can’t even drive in here and the cab had to let us out several blocks away.
The space is sleek with that Euro-modern fusion of old materials and new.

The menu.
 A bottle of cava was first up!

Cucumber sorbet with…

Strawberry gazpacho. Awesomely refreshing in combo. Neither the sorbet or the gazpacho was super sweet. The strawberry had a hint of vinegar as well as so was a true gazpacho in some way. The texture on the sorbet was pleasantly grainy.

Amberjack ceviche. Tiger’s milk sorbet. Peppers. A very bright and zingy treatment of the raw fish, super clean. The peppers packed a bit of short duration punch too. Best all in combo like the previous dish.

Catalan cheese. Our 7 year-old enjoyed this plate of special local medium aged cheese.

After the cave, I explored into Priorat bianco, which is made from white Grenache. Interesting and full bodied, like a white Rhone.

White asparagus from Navarra. Wild mushrooms and egg from their own farm. A classic mix of seasonal asparagus and egg and mushroom.

Tomato and pesto salad.

Cat of the day. Fresh prawns with rice and jamon iberico. Paella rice and shrimp taken up a notch by the fatty ham.

Different less shellfishy fish of the day with olives.

2001 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890 ‘Selección Especial’. On the nose, notes of dark cherry, mushrooms, aged oak. Similar notes on the palate, plus some dirt/tar, wet stones, and evolving tertiary notes. Even after several hours of decanting tasted younger than 2004 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904, with plenty of tannins, even though well integrated. Clearly, not anywhere close to its peak yet, can easily cellar for 10+, if not 20, more years. Excellent balance and complexity.

Duck and pears ravioli. Foie Gras. Liquor of wine sauce. Delicious and super rich of course. I could have eaten several (and suffered for it).

Suckling pig with cauliflower creme. Perfectly tender with crispy skin. Not at all leathery.

Paella rice with vegetables and fish.

Paella rice with just vegetables.

White vermouth sorbet. Citric and red vermouth. A delightfully refreshing intermediate.

Chocolate textures with hazelnut praline. The tubes of gelled chocolate were stuffed with the creme. Then there were all sorts of extra textures.

Birthday cake. For my birthday I received this bonus third dessert which was a rich nut cream and delicious.

Petite fours. White chocolate citrus, chocolates, and a rum thing.

Here is my (present) immediate family, looking slightly heavier than when we entered a few hours before.

Montiel served a delightful meal. Rooted in Catalan tradition, with a bit of modernism, but every dish was very tasty.

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Barcelona – Paco Meralgo
  2. Eating Colle di Val d’Elsa – Arnolfo
  3. Quick Eats – Bar Pinxto
  4. Eating Saigon – Hoa Tuc
  5. Eating Rome – La Pergola
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Barcelona, Catalan, eating-spain, Montiel

Eating Barcelona – Paco Meralgo

Jun19

Restaurant: Paco Meralgo

Location: Carrer de Muntaner, 171, 08036 Barcelona

Date: June 10, 2016

Cuisine: Spanish Tapas

Rating: High quality tapas

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Our first night in Barcelona kicks off with the highly rated Paco Meralgo tapas bar.

The frontage.

The tapas menu is extensive.

Paco Meralgo is typical of the modern Barcelona type of tapas, with a sleek modern space and lots of stools all around the room.
 Albariño makes

Gazpacho. Tasty, but a little less intense then I really prefer.

Tomato bread. Our 7 year-old loves this.

Sephardic special. Salmon, toast, and creme fraiche. Really good.

Egg and tuna salad.

Local salami. Taste the pig!

Anchovies on toast. These are the salty darker ones. I prefer the vinegary white ones, but these are tasty too, if you don’t mind swelling up.

Cod fritters. Very light and fresh.

Fried squash blossoms stuffed with cheese. Delightful and light version of this Italian dish.

Brie on toast (melted).

Squid and beans. Lovely chew and a great slightly spicy flavor.

Fresh prawns in garlic sauce. Hear in Spain you always get the heads.

Filet mignon in garlic oil. Amazing garlic flavor and tender meat.

Check out the oil.

Vanilla ice cream.

Chocolate truffles.

Crema catalana on its home turf. A bit more liquid than creme brule under the crispy sugar top.
 Profiterole with ice cream and chocolate sauce.

Overall, great classic tapas. One of the two best straight Barcelona-style tapas we enjoyed on this visit.

Click here to see more Eating Spain posts.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Positano – Saraceno d’Oro
  2. Eating Positano – il Tridente
  3. Eating Rome – Metamorfosi
  4. Upstairs 2 – Modern Tapas, Lots of Wine
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Albariño, Barcelona, eating-spain, Paco Meralgo, Spanish Cuisine, Tapas

Quick Eats – Qin

Jun17

Restaurant: Qin West Chinese Cuisine

Location: 1767 Westwood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90024. (310) 478-8829

Date: June 5, 2016

Cuisine: Western Chinese

Rating: Certainly good for Westside

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This regional Western Chinese place has cropped up in Westwood and I figured I’d try it, even though most places west of the SGV aren’t really worth it.

It’s in a little alcove on Westwood Blvd right next door to he old Sunnin and down the street from the early Flektor office I had in 2006.

The small menu of mostly noodle based Western Chinese dishes.

Steamed dumplings. Perfectly yummy steamed pork potstickers.

Guilin Soup. Spicy rice noodle soup with beef pickled Chinese cabbage,vegetable and peanuts. It wasn’t super spicy even though I got max spice, but it was tasty and interesting. Sort of like a spicy Pho with lots of Chinese pickled vegetables.

For super fast Chinese this was pretty “authentic” and interesting, and certainly very authentic for Westwood. Everyone in there was Chinese — always a good sign. I have to come back and try more, particularly the soup with beef bone and snail broth!

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

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  4. Quick Eats: Sunnin
  5. Quick Eats – Pho 2000
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: noodles, Qin, Qin West Chinese Cuisine, West Chinese Cuisine, Westwood

Chinois – Oldie but Goodie

Jun15

Restaurant: Chinois On Main [1, 2, 3]

Location: 2709 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405. (310) 392-9025

Date: May 6, 2016 and August 5, 2021

Cuisine: Asian Fusion

Rating: Still good decades later

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When I first moved to LA 22 years ago, Chinois was already a vibrant pillar of LA’s hot high end dining scene. It represented the kind of cool “fusion” of east/west cuisines that was so novel at the time, and almost never seen (by me) back on the East Coast.

The interior has been kept up, and still has that funky late 80s hip modern style. And while this is a long way from the starker more “rustic/urban” decor that is popular now, I

From my cellar: 2003 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. VM 95. Light yellow. Powerful, complex bouquet evokes fresh peach, pear, floral honey, green almond and smoky minerals. Deep, palate-staining citrus and orchard fruit flavors show outstanding vivacity for a hot vintage, picking up ginger and talc notes with air. The strikingly long, sappy finish features zesty orange pith, smoky minerals and an echo of honeysuckle. I’d be in no rush to drink this one. Speaking of waiting, I had the chance to revisit the 2000 Vintage Krug and it has begun to pick up the smoky, weighty and nutty character that long-time fans of this producer crave. It’s still plenty young but already unmistakably Krug, with a chewy texture and a sexy floral nuance dominating right now.

The menu.

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Crispy Lobster Spring Rolls. Comes with stir-fried lobster and vegetables.
 Tempura ahi tuna sashimi with fresh uni sauce.

Uni sauce.

Softshell crab special with cilantro sauce.

Stir fried Sonoma lamb with crispy garlic and mint.

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Shanghai lobster with curry sauce and crispy spinach. This classic has been on the menu forever (or at least since the mid 90s). It was still my favorite of the night. There is a whole bunch of fried rice under the lobster with the tail meat.

Roasted Cantonese duck with fresh plum sauce and steamed bao. I’ve had a lot better Chinese ducks.
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In Aug 2021 the duck came with these crepe-like pancakes, not as light as real spring pancakes.

In 2016 the duck came with steamed bao.

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Whole Sizzling Fried Catfish with scallions and soy glaze.

Whole steamed sea bass with scallions and soy glaze. Simple, but well cooked.

Peek inside.
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BBQ Baby Pork Ribs with soy honey glaze.
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Grilled Szechwan Beef. Classic dish. With spicy shallot cilantro sauce. Nothing at all Szechwan about this, however.

Vegetable fried rice.

Stir fried green beans with black bean sauce and garlic. A great version of this dish.
 Dessert tease. We were too full to order any (in 2016)
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But we got a whole tray in Aug 2021.
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Macadamian Nut Tart.
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Flourless chocolate cake.
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Pots au Creme.

Overall, in 2016 Chinois still has a sharp kitchen and good service. They were a little slow refilling the wine (which they had shoved in a chiller on the other side of the room — I had to grab it and do it myself). No biggy though. Food was fairly on point if no where near as “innovative” as it was 20+ years ago. Some of the dishes were still super tasty though like the lobster and string beans. Of course it’s way more expensive than “unfused” Chinese (aka normal SGV style Chinese). I think the decor has aged great and is actually more unique now.

In 2021, we ate outside because of the pandemic. Except for the busy traffic just past the barrier on main street, this was quite nice. Service was still great and food was on point for what it is.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

 

Wines from August 2021:

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1A4A1268
1A4A1228
1A4A1226
1A4A1263
1A4A1264

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Asian Fusion, Champagne, Chinois, Fusion cuisine, Krug, Lobster, Wolfgang Puck

Dark Souls III vs. Bloodborne

Jun13

DS1-noscaleTitle: Dark Souls III

System: PS4 (also on Xbox / PC)

Genre: (A)RPG

Developer: From Software

Publisher: Bandai / Konami

Director: Hidetaka Miyazaki

Date Played: late April / early May 2016

Rating: Amazing

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After the delicious time I had playing Bloodborne, Dark Souls III was a no brainer. Which understates the matter since I preordered it and was playing the day it was released.

Which leads me to both review this latest (and supposedly final) entry in From Software’s legendary Action Role Playing Game genre. But in the process, explore the small but important differences between Dark Souls III (DS3) and Bloodborne (BB) as a detailed exploration of the genre.

If you think of Bloodborne as a modern day Castlevania, then DS3 is a contemporary Ghouls ‘n Ghosts.

Bloodborne = Castlevania

Bloodborne = Castlevania

Both From Software games are born from the same DNA, but the biggest difference is:

Thematic (not gameplay) Genre. BB draws its roots from Lovecraftian horror while DS3 purports to derive from more traditional D&D-esque stock. But, not really. Both games are so dominated by Hidetaka Miyazaki’s specific auteur imprint that their differences are of a most subtle degree. And while Dark Souls is the older franchise, I’d actually argue that in BB the idiosyncrasy of his particular style more closer overlaps with the explicit genre. BB is so “perfectly” Japanese Lovecraftian, while all three Dark Souls pull fantasy much closer to horror. I don’t mean to imply any particular criticism in this observation. I adore both games, and both sub-styles. And while DS3 is more vaguely medieval and BB more vaguely gothic, they just share so much stylistically.

Dark Souls = Ghouls & Ghosts

Dark Souls = Ghouls & Ghosts

Style. BB is creepier, but DS3 is certainly creepy. The washed out colors and particular/peculiar shapes and forms are very similar, designed to vaguely discomfort. DS3 tends a little more toward matte while BB likes shiny. Certain textural material motifs are common and some are  different. BB likes cloth, leather, eyes, and fur more while DS3 likes metal, fire, stone, and dragons. BB has more 19th century architectural and costuming elements. But both are so dark, gothic, and “churchy”. Plenty of enemies or objects could almost be used in either game. Half the sound effects ARE used in both games.

dark_souls_3_hr_gundyr_battles_playerGraphics. Like BB, DS3 is a gorgeous stylized game. The art design is magnificent in its bleakly weird way. Giant vistas abound and strange unique shapes and distorted silhouettes. And although the engine (used by both games) seems perfectly competent, the art direction is more important than the tech. You just have to like dark and weird. Creatures with flowing forms, hidden eyes, and faces, weird mutations, and a generally ruined, graveyard, gothic sort of look. I’d give a slight nod to BB for uniform of graphical style and theme but a slight nod to DS3 for scale and awesome visual scope.

Sound Design. Fabulous music and minimalist but effective fx. The thud of sword on shield, or the grunt of blade on flesh are all fabulously telegraphed.

Dark-Souls-3-Siegward-Mission-04Gameplay. The broad strokes of the two games are nearly identical. You explore a interlinked world where levels fold back on each other. Monsters and death abounds. You fight through and die. And die. And die again. Eventually you may reach continue points (bonefires/lamps) or open up shortcuts that allow you to circumvent areas already explored. Item collection is persistent across death but experience (souls/blood) is lost on death, with a single chance at reclaiming it by fighting through to wherever you lost it. Souls/blood both serve has currency for leveling and item purchase. Weapons can be upgraded and fit with stones/gems.

Combat, controls, & mechanics. The combat in both games is masterful and varies slightly in important little ways. In DS3 it’s realistic, even typical to carry a shield and block attacks. In BB you can carry a gun, but it does low damage and is useful mostly to interrupt and stun. In both, weapons usually have a 1 and 2 handed mode, but in BB these vary more substantially (at the cost of far less weapons). BB has the “regain system” in which you have a few seconds after taking damage to “take back” some or all of your lost health by attacking again. This encourages a more aggressive style of fighting. In DS3 it is perfectly advantageous to play much slower and more defensively. And since in early levels, BB has 20 healing potions and DS3 only 3-4 until upgraded, the beginning DS3 game requires damage avoidance for survival. BB allows you to charge the big weapon strike and has a dedicated potion button. DS3 allows for much more magic use, opening up very different play styles. But for simplicity I stuck to melee.

I started the original Dark Souls as a caster and paid dearly for it. Only the most advanced players should consider investing in magic during their first playthrough. Melee combat is just so much easier at lower skill point investment. By a New Game+ playthrough, having acquired most of the spells and a lot more skill points, hybrid or caster roles are perfectly reasonable.

Subtle level design decisions also make for combat differences. In BB, you can easily be mobbed by groups of enemies and crowd control is simultaneously more difficult and more important. Same with AOE and sweeping attacks. In DS3 enemies are less clumped, usually only 1-2 at a time — unless you like dying.

Both combat systems are extraordinarily satisfying. The feel is generally excellent, with a slight edge to BB‘s faster, more nimble style. But blocking is highly gratifying as well.

dark-souls-3-screenshot-12.0Story. Both games offer minimal and extremely mysterious story. Yet BB actually has boss intro scenes, substantially more cinematics, and even a few vignettes with multiple characters talking. That’s not to say that this fleshes out a single character, or offers even the slightest clarity as to their motivations, just that you see them introduced and they therefore have more “personality.” Definitely I liked this in BB. And the weirdness all fit together more weirdly, lending to a sense of more odd and mysterious goings on. Yet DS3‘s plot is even “grander” and more unknowable. Perhaps mostly because nothing makes any sense at all. Listen to the above intro trailer to get a taste. That’s not to say that lines like “The fire fades. And the Lords go without thrones” or “And so it is that ash seeketh embers” don’t give me goosebumps — no, I love them — but they don’t exactly make a lot of sense. Except perhaps if you have eyes growing inside your skull. Anyway, slight nod to BB for “plot” and “character” — if you can call it that.

That said, DS3 has MORE NPCs and more complicated “questlines” (good luck actually understanding them or following them without online help as they are so much looser and less defined than in other RPGs). There is a veritable rat’s nest of guys you need to nudge weirdly along their stories in order to open up as much vending as possible. So a nod to DS3 for complexity (a good thing in this case). BB‘s equivalents feel undeveloped and there are only 1-2 of any magnitude.

Both games have multiple mysterious endings too. In both cases I used my internet prowess to achieve the “most difficult” ending. Yet I’m still not sure what being the Lord of Hollows really means :-).

Dark-Souls-3Gear. DS3 has a LOT more gear to collect than BB, but the emphasis is quite different. BB‘s armor is mostly leather or cloth and mostly cosmetic. Some have particular resists, but that’s about it. The weapons in that game are relatively few, but highly differentiated. There are two main types: trick weapon and firearm. In DS3 there is an enormous variety of both weapons and armor with four main weapon types: melee, talisman (for spell casting), bow, and shield. Supposedly all of the weapons are viable, but they aren’t necessarily highly differentiated as there are many similar ones. The armor tends to group into light, medium, and heavy. Unlike BB, weight is a meaningful factor in DS3. I personally went with fairly heavy armor, but it was unclear that the poise attribute (which is supposed to all for heavier armor to prevent you being staggered) was fully functional, or at least worth investing in. The weapons system does suffer from a touch of imbalance. Early on I got a Deep Axe which was fairly powerful, but not very upgradable. It took me a good while to find a weapon and upgrade it to a level where it surpassed this early stage find. It’s hard to know which gear to invest in. DS3 also has MUCH better boss gear rewards. Each boss gives you a soul which can be traded for a choice of two high power items, usually weapons. In DS3, there are a plethora of rings (you can wear 4 at once) that add additional powers. In BB these are replaced by runes (you can wear 3). They are fairly similar but the DS3 system is better in all ways. And overall, I’d give DS3 the win for gear, as it has more stuff and particularly more types of stuff with the shields and whatnot.

Gear Upgrading. BB‘s gear upgrade system is a little simpler than DS3‘s. They both have the same four tier currently +3,+3,+3,+1 normal upgrades, but DS3 has 2-3 additional side currencies for upgrading different gear. Boss gear, and other special types fall into at least 2 “non normal” upgrade paths. It also has a more generous supply of gear upgrade items, although split among all these types. BB only has 1-2 of the top upgrade per play-through, DS3 has at least 4-5. The different types are a little confusing. There are also gems that can be socketed on (most) weapons/shields that modify how the items scale. The use of these depends on your build and I only ended up trying 3 of the 15 or so types. In BB, each weapon has a couple sockets for different gems that can either tune the scaling or boost the damage output (a lot!). I liked this additional ability to pump up the power of even a level 10 weapon, so I give BB the edge here.

e9386bce455b00ad4380af046e247f1aOther collectables and upgrades. In my opinion, as far as RPGs go, the more you can upgrade the better. DS3 allows you to upgrade both the number of flasks and their potency, which BB doesn’t do at all, so this is a big point in DS3‘s favor. It also has more random items and consumables. However, they generally seemed less useful than those in BB. Maybe this is due to BB’s slightly higher overall difficulty level (or just the fact that I got better at this sort of game between). There are lots of spells and whatnot which I didn’t experiment with. DS3 has the whole “ember” system by which you can spend this limited but reasonably available currency to gain max health until you die. I mostly used it for bosses. You need it for multiplayer. There is also the whole hollowing thing, which even as the Lord of Hollows I didn’t totally understand. Somehow dying hollows you out more, and you have less multiplayer ability when hollowed. This is a change from the much more brutal hollowing of Dark Souls where the game just got harder the more often you died.

crystalsage1_tcClasses and leveling Mechanics. Being an RPG, both of these games have means by which you level up and improve your characters. These are extremely similar but differ in subtle ways. BB has two currencies, blood and insight. Insight is earned mostly from bosses. Often you can buy the same things with both. Insight subtly changes the game’s look and play, which is very weird but cool. DS3 really just has the souls, which are almost exactly like blood. In both cases, you collect them like XP and can spend them for gear or to level up your character. Their persistence is similar in both games in that you lose them on dying, and have a single life afterward to try to retrieve them from the spot (in DS3) or spot/monster (in BB) where you lost them. This means that if you die with a decent number of points you really need to focus on retrieving them conservatively. If you get cocky during one of these missions you will often lose the batch and end up howling at the TV.

Leveling is frequent, but a painfully small boost to your power. You have to chose which point to invest in. DS3 has more types of points, with higher differentiation, and far more defined character builds. In BB mostly you could go for strength or dexterity builds, with a few people investing in arcane for a weak kind of magic. In DS3, besides the basic stats shared by both games like health, endurance, and item discovery, there is a weight carrying stat and three different magic stats driving (in some combo) three different sorts of spell-casting abilities that can be mixed with melee. These “classes” are a bit odd and nebulous compared to something like World of Warcraft or Diablo, but they are definitely more interesting in DS3 and overall I really like the RPG mechanic.

For me, the leveling mechanic adds to the game on so many “levels,” (haha) which is one of the reasons I always like RPG mechanics. First of all, it gives you more things to progress, and therefore have that “sense of achievement.” Second, if an area gets too difficult, you can always grind somewhere and level up to make it easier. Overall nod is to DS3, but the systems are pretty similar.

Dark-Souls-3-2-980x551Level Design. DS3 has more levels, and somewhat larger than BB (particularly if you exclude the DLC). The levels are fabulous in both, but quality goes to DS3.

However, BB has the whole chalice dungeon thing which allows for A LOT of extra levels to help farm blood and with their own powerful gem upgrades. There is a lot of content here, but the problem is that it’s boring in comparison to the normal levels. Somehow the featureless dungeon levels, half randomly constructed, are both extremely difficult and very dull. I never really enjoyed playing them.

Creature design in both games is fabulous and while DS3 probably has more, the variety is very good in both cases. Each creature tends to have considerable differences in attack and defense styles, which interplays delightfully with the generally awesome combat mechanics.

frame_0000_large

This boss you kill by bursting the sacks hanging between its legs!

Boss Design. Both games focus a lot of energy on bosses. There are many. They look fabulous. They play well, and require significant investment to master. DS3 has more bosses (particularly without DLC), and both games have a lot of excellent dramatic bosses. The BB ones felt more differentiated, mostly had cool intros, and seemed harder. Maybe it’s because I often co-oped the DS3 bosses, maybe I got better between games, maybe not. BB bosses seemed to absolutely require reading strats and watching videos to conquer. Some, like the Orphan of Kos were so insanely hard I still get shivers. Nod to BB for bosses just for sheer evilness.

Hubs. BB has a dedicated “Hunter’s Dream” hub while DS3 has the hub located in the “regular” world. Both have continue points that allow for teleportation, but DS3 allows you to teleport straight from one to the other without returning to the hub. Given the lengthy load times this is a significant plus. In addition, DS3 lets you reset a level at the bonfire without a load.

Co-op Multiplayer. I don’t really do much PVP (if I can avoid it), so I’ll discuss co-op. The system is very odd in both games, and not well “explained.” But it was much easier to summon co-op help in DS3 and I used it extensively to get past bosses. Actually I didn’t even discover it until about 7-8 bosses in, but I used it on most times after that. DS3 bosses are WAY easier with 2 players. More people seems to increase the hit points of the boss more than its worth. Neither of these games bother to explain their odd mechanics. You pretty much have to read about them online. But anyway, DS3 wins here. It also has more bizarre multiplayer factions than BB. In both cases the why you should join them and what they do is vague. You have to read the wiki online for a full explanation. I don’t focus on this kind of thing, but on regular leveling, bosses, gear, etc.

Ascended Winged KnightBalance. The sort of vague mysterious quality to both games makes for a somewhat diffuse balance. But that being said, the gameplay itself is intense and spectacular. Even though the bosses are huge and terrifying, or maybe because of it, I tend to prefer the levels. These are just awesome sauce and I also like the high level of challenge and the collecting and “upgrading.” These are just very satisfying games if you invest the time. BB felt a little tighter and more focused, but the increased scope of DS3 is fabulous too.

Mystery. I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again. These games are oddly mysterious, ambiguous, and “ill documented.” In that, they don’t explicitly teach the player about what’s available through clear tutorials, and they don’t even telegraph the availability and consequences of major branches, mechanics, decisions and whatnot. For example, if you were playing a spell-caster, opening up the vendors that sell most of the spells requires an odd sequences of dialogs and encounters, none of which is clear. You could easily goof or miss out on these. That’s just the way this game is. I happen to like this vague quality and find it highly immersive. But I also love David Lynch films. If you like everything very neat and well telegraphed, or don’t enjoy pouring over the online wiki descriptions, these games might be extra super hardcore frustrating. If, like me, you embrace it, they have a flavor, complexity, and immersive quality much different from a more explicit game.

dark_souls_3_boss_how_to_beat_dancer_of_the_boreal_valleyOverall, these are just some of my favorite games in recent years — true masterpieces. If you don’t mind your games hard (very very hard), and you like fantasy combat and aren’t easily creeped out, you must play them.

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Games
Tagged as: APRG, Bloodborne, Dark Souls 3, Fantasy, Hidetaka Miyazaki, RPG, Video game

1960s Barolo at Officine Brera

Jun08

Restaurant: Officine Brera [1, 2, 3]

Location: 1331 E 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021. (213) 553-8006

Date: June 2, 2016

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Some of the best (new?) Italian in the city!

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Officine Brera is one of LA’s hottest 2016 openings and I’ve been waiting for an excuse to haul myself Downtown for months. Another modern “rustic” Italian by the team that brought us Factory Kitchen, including master chef Angelo Auriana, plus Brera brings in some new blood in the form of Mirko Paderno who rocked it at Oliverio.

The actual restaurant is behind us, but like many recent hot openings (including Factory Kitchen), Brera is located in the “Arts District”, a bombed out region of DTLA not far from skid row that is rapidly up and coming.

The area offers a mess of old brick 40s warehouses and factories which are being lovingly converted, allowing large spaces at reasonable rents (for now).

And inside the gigantic warehouse/factory space has been reconfigured with highly attractive duct work. Who would have thought that grungy 70 year-old factory windows could look so good?

Tonight’s special dinner was organized by Sage Society wine guru Liz Lee (left), shown here with Francine Ferdinandi the wine director at Officine and Factory Kitchen. The theme: 1960s Barolo and Barbaresco!

Tonight’s special menu.

1998 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne. VM 95. The 1998 Comtes de Champagne is a different story altogether. This is a sexy, up-front Comtes endowed with lovely richness in its fruit and open, expressive aromatics. It remains an impressive, inviting Comtes that should also continue to develop nicely in the bottle for at least another decade plus.

Farinata. Chickpea “pancake” cooked in the 750 degree wood oven.

This simple dish of chickpea flour and olive oil is fabulous covered with strong black pepper.

Flight 1:

2010 Borgo del Tiglio (Nicola Manferrari) Collio Friulano Ronco della Chiesa. AG 94. Borgo del Tiglio’s 2010 Ronco della Chiesa shows what this hillside site in Cormons can do in cooler vintages. Still bright, focused and intensely saline, the 2010 bursts from the glass with grapefruit, lime, mint and crushed rocks. The 2010 will probably be appreciated most by readers who like tense, vibrant whites. Next to some of the other vintages, the 2010 lacks a little mid-palate pliancy, but it is quite beautiful just the same. I especially like the way the 2010 opens up nicely in the glass over time.

From my cellar: 2010 Paolo Bea Arboreus. 90 points. This is a very special and somewhat odd wine. Very floral and fruity nose with strong apricot and honey notes. On the palate this seems like a different wine with a much drier impression with quite high acidity. This makes the wine seem somewhat confused about what sort of wine it wants to be. This is not objectively speaking a great wine, though it is good, but I just can’t resist the charm of the aromas. 90-91 points, based mainly on the nose.

Salmone Crudo. Copper river salmon, green apple, mustard seed, lovage, oil. A lovely and interesting salmon tartar which paired fabulously with the Bea Trebbiano.

Porcini Salad. Shaved foraged porcini mushrooms, sunchockes, Grana, Culatello, fried parsley. A wonderful early little “salad” that went better with the cooler more herbal Borgo del Tiglio.

Flight 2:

1967 Prunotto Barbaresco Riserva. Very dry and tannic.

1967 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo. 90 points. The best of this flight, with good balance, some fruit, and strong tannins.

From my cellar: 1964 Gaja Barbaresco. JG 93. Cloudy. At first a little disjointed and flat. An hour or so later lovely, perfume nose. On the palate, this is sweet upfront with a metallic hint. Long finish. Improves in the glass, turning savory and long, richer and sweeter. This is really interesting and enjoyable. Better with food than by itself.

Nastrini al Sugo Divitello. Homemade egg tagliatelle, oxtail veal shoulder sauce, aged reggiano. A wonderful example of traditional braised meat ragu. The meat reduction at the end was to die for.
 Risotiata Officine Brera. Carvaroli Arborio Rice, Summer Black Truffle, Fine Herbs, Snail Ragu. Perfectly firm and creamy rice with a really interesting snail center.

Flight 3:

1967 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva Antichi Vignetti Propri. 94 points. Gorgeous stuff. I have always really liked 1967 in Piedmont, and this was a great example of the vintage. It had an intriguing nose, starting out earthy and meaty, with a whiff of smoke in here, then showing flecks of exotic spice, like cardamon and cloves, and a little boiled herb, and after some time, sweeter red cherries and flowers. Lovely, complex stuff. It was on the palate where the wine shone though. There was still some richness to the wine, with lovely sweet fruit flavours of red cherries and berries – something that I often associate with the better wines of the vintage; but this was also wed to a wonderful clarity and purity of expression, with a nice transparency underpinning the fruit, so that the wine came across as elegant without being precious about it. After a fine midpalate with a little smoky undertone, the wine then settled into long, gentle finish that started with a twist of black tea and ended in a little kiss of spice and herb. There was just that remnant of masculine structure as well, otherwise, this could well have been confused with a Barbaresco with its sweetness and elegance. A delicious Barolo, seemingly at peak, this was absolutely singing on the night.

1967 Cantina Mascarello Barolo. JG 95. Color was initially pale red, with orange bricking to the rim. darkened considerably as the night went on. Initial mustiness on the nose blew off. Nose was classic barolo- roses, tea, cherries and slightly decaying leaves- waves upon wave. The palate was fantastically alive with a warm velvet texture, pure cherry fruit with considerable elegance and amazing persistence. awesome wine.

From my cellar: 1967 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo. JG 94. Dried cork that took a bit of effort to extract. There’s a good bit of earth and dirt on the nose, a hint of manure, and some ripe fruit elements. The palate is quite jammy (somehow) with plenty of fruit. This is a pretty big Barolo, even at almost 50 years old. The tannins are still present, and you can feel them quite prominently on the palate. Here’s hoping that the bottle funk will blow off in the time before dinner. (Dinner) This now displays gorgeous ripe red fruit on the nose, with a few light high-toned elements. The palate has a good balance of the same ripe red fruit, earth, and animale. Fully resolved tannins, this is good to go now. I would suggest a half-day decant before consumption. This bottle did clean its act up quite nicely in those few hours.

agavin: best of this flight IMHO.
 Cannelloni Gratinati. Braised Beef Cheeks, rolled pasta, swiss Chard, Black summer truffle. Rich and delicious.

Flight 4:

1964 Cappellano Barolo. JG 94. Smoky black cherries on the nose. Elegant and expansive in the mouth. Still has some tannin. Long, elegant. Still has some richness and sweet fruit.

1961 Franco Fiorina Barolo. JG 92. I thought our bottle was a touch corky. Others thought it wasn’t cork. Not sure, but it definitely had a cardboardy nose.

1961 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo. 93 points. Lots of sediment. Beautiful, full, round, and lush old barolo. Really fantastic, and exactly what I am looking for in a wine like this.

1961 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo. VM 93. Fascinating. Amazing color. Virtually no browning for a 51 year old wine. Fruit was vibrant and in tact. Earthy bouquet, round and pure on the palate. lengthy and elegant finish. Many years ahead for this wine.

Carne Borina. 24 days dry aged rib eye, corn polenta, natural jus, fried piopini mushrooms.

Gianduiotta. Hazelnut choccolate creme, candied nuts. Classic Italian flavors if not the most traditional form factor.

Overall another amazing evening.

Food. The food at Officine is very good. It’s very Italian, with a fairly non Italian “vibe” to the place and a more modern share plates style. Tonight it was particularly on point, individually plated as it was, with each dish being tuned (many off menu) by Chef Angelo himself. This was a different meal in style than my previous visits, with less variety (family style you get more tastes) but more tuned up cuisine. Anyway it was fabulous and I was plenty full.

Service. Service was great and we were treated like family. Wine service in particular is a real standout. Opening and managing all those old Baroli is quiet a chore and Francine spent most of the evening with us.

Atmosphere. I love the big factory look. It’s a little loud, but not as bad as some (Bestia!). We had 8 people in the back where it wasn’t quite as deafening.

Wines. We didn’t have a bad wine tonight. Some a little tannic, one maybe partially “corky” and one a little oxidized. Pretty amazing for 50ish year old Nebbiolo! The pairings were perfect as the cook tasted, chose, and cooked every dish to match!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

More Sage Society dinners.

Related posts:

  1. Hedonism at Officine Brera
  2. Rhone at Officine Brera
  3. Republique of Old Nebiolio
  4. Factory Kitchen – Fabulous
  5. Tony Terroni
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Angelo Auriana, Barbaresco, Barolo, Francine Diamond Ferdinandi, Mirko Paderno, Officine Brera, Sage Society, Wine

Game of Thrones – Episode 57

Jun07

20160226073939!GoT_season_6_official_posterShow: Game of Thrones

Genre: Fantasy

Watched: Episode 57 – June 5, 2016

Title: The Broken Man

Summary: Lots of great character development

ANY CHARACTER HERE

NOTE: SERIOUS SPOILER WARNING. This review/discussion contains tons of spoilers about the episode and even ones crossing over from the books. It’s really my free-for-all musing given all the information at my disposal.

Plot threads are unraveled and discussed one by one.

The Hound – Guess what, or favorite Clegane is back! Turns out like so many GOT characters when Arya left him to die… the Hound only “mostly” died. The mysterious Septon Ray (name changed from the books where he was Septon Meribald) found him where Arya left him and nursed him back to health. The Septon is played by vetran British actor Ian McShane, who was so awesome as Swearengen in Dead Wood (and countless other roles).

This thread is broken into several segments, but essentially Seption Ray runs a kind of refuge commune of various regular folks made homeless by the war. He inspires them to live well (he does wear a Septon’s star) and works alongside them as they build a tower, prepare food, cut wood etc. He’s a humble guy and keeps engaging the Hound in conversation. They’re both amusing. Ray: “What kind of big f**ker was man enough to take you down?” Hound: “a woman.” It’s also clear even from the beginning that Sandor is changed man, less angry than before. Septon Ray talks of his past as a warrior and his transformation into a holy man. One could parallel this with the High Septon’s story but overall Ray is certainly less manipulative and fanatical. During one of these speeches three men from the Brotherhood arrive on horseback. They ask for money, food, etc but are nicely turned away. The Hound is touched by Ray’s sentiments, but speculates that they should be prepared to fight.

GOT607_082415_HS__DSC76711-1140x759

Chopping wood for 2 and a half years

Next time we see him he is cutting wood off by himself when he hears screaming. He returns to camp to find every soul shot through with arrows. The Septon dangles from his tower by a noose, even his star having been taken. The Hound grabs up an axe, set back on the warrior’s path.

While I’ve always liked the Hound (not as a person, but as a character), and I enjoyed McShane’s Ray, I was not totally satisfied with the handling of the group’s demise. It looked as if a magical force swept in, shot everyone, and vanished. Stuff was still laying about, and it takes some “dedication” to kill everyone. Even the Mongol Horde missed stragglers (and sent back a special party to mop them up). This sort of atrocity certainly wouldn’t be in character with Dondarian’s Brotherhood, but more work of the ilk that clustered around the older, bigger, meaner Clegane (aka Fraken-Gregor before Quburn got to play with him).

It should be noted that this whole segment is so much clearer (as usual) in the show than in the books where it’s told from the POV of Brienne, who doesn’t know the Hound. In fact, the written interaction is mostly between her and the septon and the presence of the Hound is only inferred, and the septon technically says he is dead. But he may be speaking metaphorically, implying that the hound changed — which given what the show is doing is presumably the case.

Alas poor Ray, I knew him well

Alas poor Ray, I knew him well

Margaery & Olena – The younger Tyrell is back hanging with the High Sparrow in his chapel. She is reading from one of the seven holy books, and quotes from the “The Mother.” If, as suspect, she’s acting, she’s doing a great job of it. She discusses her “new self’s” views of her “old self” in a very convincing way. The Sparrow inquires about her sex life, mentioning that she and the king haven’t “been together” — despite having been together. He encourages her to do her duty, as the king must have an heir. Certainly, medieval royalty were pragmatic about this, but it felt slightly forced. He also implies that Marg’s grandmother, the Queen of Thorns, had better watch out.

Later, Marg is back in the Red Keep with her Grandmother and under the watchful eye of Septa Unella. Olena is furious at her granddaughter’s pious stance and wants the septa gone — clearly they haven’t been alone. Marg sticks to the holy program, responding to Olena’s suggestion that she return to Highgarden that her grandmother should do the same. Then Marg slips her a note.

I knew it!

I knew it!

Oleana, never a dunce, instantly changes her tune. Outside, she opens the note which is revealed to be merely the Highgarden rose. Still, this is proof that Marg still sides with her house.

Later, Cersei and Franken-Gregor visit Olena, who is packing to return to Highgarden, finally having gotten the message to move out of the Sparrow’s reach and leave the scheming to her protege. They have an amusing exchange where Cersei, continuing to be subdued after her walk of shame, argues for an alliance. Olena blames her for the mess, which Cersei, in a bit ofrelatively new self awareness, agrees. But Olena reminds her that they have both lost, and that Cersei is without any support. Her uncle forsakes her, her son has gone to the Sparrow, and her brother is off fighting.

Jaime – and his Lannister army arrive at a Riverrun which due to budget, has grown more elaborate and picturesque since we last saw it way back in season 3. And Bronn is with him to continue their bromance. Jaime “convinces” Bronn that he should take over command of the siege and play his right hand man — since he’s short in the hand department. The Frey army investing the castle is as lame as the Freys themselves. The hooded creeps are taunting the Blackfish (who watches from the battlements) with his nephew, the hapless Lord Edmure. Threatening to kill him if the gates aren’t opened. The Blackfish isn’t about to flop.

So when the Frey’s back down on their threat, Jaime approaches them and takes command by one part royal order and nine parts confidence. He orders them to have Edmure bathed and fed. His putting the smack on the Freys is quite amusing. They don’t put up much of a fight.

Don't mess with us Freys!

Don’t mess with us Freys!

The same can’t be said of the Blackfish. Jaime goes to the castle gates alone and unarmed and treats with him. Kingslayer and Blackfish. They take the measure of each other, and the Blackfish is not impressed. Jaime offers terms (letting the Tully men go free if they surrender) and the Blackfish states that he was born in the castle, and he’s prepared to die in it. The walls are high, the fortress well provisioned, and the commander is seasoned. This won’t be a quick siege and Jaime knows it.

These are fun scenes, even if Bronn is merely amusing and not in prime form. But the Jaime / Blackfish interactions are great as is him putting the Frey’s in their place.

Kingslayer vs. Blackfish

Kingslayer vs. Blackfish

Theon – and his sister Yarra party in Volantis, allowing us to again check out the cool shop-covered bridge and the whore houses. And while the Theon of old was a big brothel lover, alas, the newly trimmed version isn’t so keen on the carnal affairs. Which can’t be said of the enthusiastically lesbian Yarra — apparently instact Greyjoys are a lusty sort. But for all her bravado, Yarra is fairly sympathetic to Theon’s plight, in her Ironborn way. Still, as she puts it, if he’s so far gone he ain’t coming back he might as well end it all. Euron (sounds like urine) is hunting them, and they’re going to sail all the way to Meeren to ask Dany for help talking the Iron Islands back (little do they know she’s out horseback — I mean dragonback — riding). This tough love works on Theon, and he nods, on his way back from the reeky depths.

Runs in the family

Runs in the family

Jon, Sansa, Davos – are trying to get the north back together. First step is to convince the Wildlings to join them in this fight. Here Jon does pretty well, making a big speech about the Wildlings being toast if they don’t knock Ramsay out. Tormund acts as backup singer and Wun Wun the giant chimes in by saying “Snow!” Victory one.

Wun Wun steals the scene again

Wun Wun steals the scene again

Next up is Bear Island, which is a cool spot with icy waterfalls. There Jorah’s cousin-he-never-met, the 10 year-old niece of the Old Bear (the Lord Commander before Jon) is the lady. At first, the going is tough convincing her (and her Maester). Despite centuries of loyalty to the starks, She isn’t buying Jon. Nor Sansa. Then Davos pops in with a “I grew up in a shack” story and wins her over. Of course she only has 62 men, but she’s so cute she’s become an instant internet sensation — sort of like the Tormund/Brienne forbidden love.

Too cute to rule!

Too cute to rule!

Stop three is Lord Glover. He listens to them, and might even have a grain of sympathy for the old days, but he’s still a big no despite the trio’s efforts. Robb did them no favors with the way he screwed up, ruined everything over a foreign girl, and then left them to the Bolton’s tender mercies. Now fear of flaying and keeps them in the Ramsay camp.

And speaking of camps, the meager forces of Snow, Start, and Seaworth make camp at that exact unlucky spot where Stannis was blizzarded in, then “forced” to burn his daughter at the stake. A grim locale. Sansa wants to gather more men, even though they have tried and failed at all reasonable options. Jon thinks they need to win with what they have. But Sansa secretly writes a letter (presumably to Littlefinger) and signs it with her direwolf sigil.

game-of-thrones-season-6-the-broken-man-image-6-600x399

Sansa, Snow, and Seaworth

Arya – Finally back to our favorite little Stark. She’s got a new outfit and hairstyle more in her traditional “hanging out at the Red Keep with her Dancing Master” style. Confident and bold, she strides up to some Westerosi ship captains and buys a cabin with stolen coin, then heads up to a bridge to take in a gorgeous view of Bravos and the Titan (the giant statue). Worth noting that this episode has been full of great views. Anyway, an old lady approaches, and we know what’s coming, it’s the Waif wearing a mask, and she stabs Arya 5-6 times nastily in the belly (shades of that other Stark, Robb’s wife). Arya, still being Arya, knocks herself free and over the side of the bridge to disappear into the lagoon and a pool of bloody water.

Thinking herself the Titan

Thinking herself the Titan

Shortly after, she pops up somewhere nearby, swimming in pain, climbs out and staggers through the market clutching her bloody guts.

I was loving this whole sequence until her post-stabbing athletics. I have to imagine that a half dozen long bladed stabs to the intestines and then a bath in bacteria laden waters is pretty much a certain date to meet the real master of the House of Black and White. So, unless she gets some magical intervention next week, I’m having a hard time imagining my suspension of disbelief will hold. The walking at all after such a stabbing already has it strained to the breaking point. But we shall see.

Can we say sepsis?

Can we say sepsis?

Episode Body Count: Septon Ray and his whole crew. Arya’s guts.

Overall, a quieter episode than most, but with a lot of good character development. Really Arya’s encounter was the only major on screen action, but the show doesn’t need constant action for good drama. Containing only 4 major threads, this week moved those stories forward in a meaty way. They are deliberately merging more characters. And this trend will continue next week as Brienne seems to be hopping from the Jon thread to the Jaime thread — and it will be great to see them back together again.

Also thematically, the Broken Man is apt. We have the Hound and then Jon’s party, full of broken men. Jaime and Blackfish both. Or at least damaged. Hell, Edmure too. Theon is pretty much the definition and even Cersei and Marg have been “broken” (or bent) in their own ways.

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Season 6: [51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57]

Related posts:

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  2. Game of Thrones – Episode 56
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  4. Game of Thrones – Episode 31
  5. Game of Thrones – Episode 53
By: agavin
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Posted in: Television
Tagged as: a game of thrones, A Song of Ice and Fire, Episode 57, Game of Thrones, got, HBO, Season 6, Season 6 - Episode 7

Uncharted 4 – My Review

Jun06

UnchartedCoverMockUPTitle: Uncharted 4: A Thief’s End

System: PS4

Genre: Story based Climber/Shooter

Developer: Naughty Dog

Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment

Date Played: May 2016

Rating: Best looking game ever made!

_

 

Of course I had to play and review Uncharted 4. It pretty much goes without saying. My collector’s edition box came on launch day and I finished it over the next week. It probably took me about 20-24 hours as I take my time and I’m very thorough. I collected about 95% of the treasures and almost all the journal entries/extra convos etc. So let’s jump into it, topic by topic:

Story 8/10 and character 9/10. The UC4 story itself is superficially generic, involving the return of Nathan Drake’s long lost brother Sam, which precipitates Nathan leaving his “retirement” and (temporarily) Elena. Nathan is thereafter thrown into pursuit of the “biggest pirate treasure in history,” an adventure that takes him to Panama, Louisiana, Italy, Scotland, Madagascar, and (largely) Captain Avery’s nearby pirate island and its requisite “lost city.” There are also a couple flashbacks to the Drake boy’s younger days. Mostly the story is an excuse for modern pirate adventures and more importantly, character development between Nathan and Sam & Elena. This development, basically constructed from constant back and forth between the (usually two) party members seamlessly accompanies nearly all of Uncharted‘s gameplay.

Elena, like my wife, lets Nathan play video games

Elena, like my wife, lets Nathan play video games

In fact, Drake is almost never alone, and for good reason. This “buddy system story telling” at Naughty Dog was born out of Jak & Daxter. The idea with Daxter was to provide the “witty repartee” to help liven up the game, an idea we basically got from Disney movies and their endless string of comedic sidekicks. They intervening 15 years has seen the concept grow in sophistication, but the core idea is the same. In UC4, the dialog is not just funny (although it often is), but genuinely character building.

UC4 isn’t as somber, emotionally wrenching, or deep as Naughty Dog’s other similar-genre hit, The Last of Us (TLOU), but the level of character interaction between Drake and his family does bring out real warmth and personality. Basically, the game lives up to being a Raiders / Die Hard type summer blockbuster. It’s kinda about the action, but really excels because you care. Please note that this depth is rarely present in video games (does Call of Duty evoke any emotion?) or even summer blockbusters where creators too often believe 40 minutes of slamming through buildings develops character.

So while UC4 is not the story/character masterpiece that is TLOU — it’s also a lot lighter hearted.

That Sam is just a bit more selfish than Nathan is telegraphed by his slightly shiftier features

That Sam is just a bit more selfish than Nathan is telegraphed by his slightly shiftier features

Voice Acting & Animation 10/10. Taking into account the current state of technology, video game character rendering just doesn’t get better than UC4. I’m sure Sony’s eventual PS5 and Naughty Dog’s eventual PS5 title will improve on it, but barring that, the characters just look and move superbly. The voice acting is really stellar too, particularly given the sometime “cheese” factor of the pirate story. The quality of the writing and delivery sell it time and time again.

The Drake brothers have very strong forearms

The Drake brothers have very strong forearms

Graphics 11/10. The elephant in the room. No, the titanosaur argentinosaurus huinculensis in the room is how gorgeous the game looks. UC4 isn’t the most stylized game ever, but for hands down gorgeous “realistic” graphics there is no better looking game yet made. It’s even better looking than Witcher 3: Blood & Wine (which is pretty gorgeous). The UC4 graphics aren’t really that naturalistic either, as the color and detail are pumped up in a sort of HDR hyper-realistic way. It’s just not that obviously stylized. My good friend Erick Pangilinan (he’s the art director!) describes it as “hyper reality but very balanced in terms of detail. Every camera shot is very directed in terms of gameplay clarity and artistic composition. Following a lighting color script was also key to tie in the mood and story beat.” The textures and lighting and everything else are just so ridiculously pretty, which because of a technique called physical base rendering allows the materials to respond to light properly, making them consistent and realistic (and therefore more awesome).

Let us not forget the amazing view distances, epic scenes, crazy mud/water/everything else type effects. Oh, and the animation, which while not 100% lifelike is about 98% — and therefore about as good as has ever been done. Plus did I mention all the insane shaders and little details. The look of the game, it’s stunning slickness, and jaw-dropping beauty actually makes it more fun to play. Seriously, even the corner of some cave is gorgeous. Frame rate is 30 hertz in Single Player. They couldn’t really squeeze this crazy look into 60 on the PS4. It doesn’t bog much, so gameplay isn’t affected. Sure it would be a little more fluid at 60, but there are a lot of uglier games that run at 30 (or less).

Yeah, that's what the game looks like

Yeah, that’s what the game looks like

Controls 9.5/10 and core mechanics. I’m a control guy. I programmed most/all of the controls for the Naughty Dog games before Uncharted 1 so I know a little bit about video game control :-). The UC4 controls are great, particularly the climbing controls. Basically, the controls break down into a couple types: Running/jumping/climbing, shooting, hand to hand, and vehicle. I’d say the basic “moving drake around” and climbing controls are 11/10. Some of the new mechanics, like the grappling hook, slides, and piton integrate spectacularly. The way in which Drake reaches for handholds and you can subtly feel them out: perfect. The shooting and “hiding” controls are maybe a 9/10, as is the driving. It all responds well and some elements like the slipping and sliding of the jeep in the mud are crazy good. Occasionally I’d pop out of stealth oddly when trying to shift positions. The hand to hand fighting is more like a 7/10. It’s fine, and the animation is gorgeous, but it doesn’t have the visceral contact quality of say, Bloodborne, where you can confidently fight multiple opponents at the same time. There is an increased emphasis on stealth gameplay, possibly coming over from TLOU. I liked hiding in the grass and quietly taking guys out, and to this UC4 adds pulling and kicking guys off ledges and out of windows. All are quite satisfying when you pull it off.

The fighting / shooting gameplay isn’t immensely varied. There aren’t that many enemy types. Basic mercs, armored mercs, sniper mercs, maybe a few other similar types. This ain’t like Dark Souls III with tons of highly varied fantasy monsters (I love me some fantasy monsters). So enemy variety gets a 3/10. Enemy AI is excellent though.

You can actually slide around in that mud!

You can actually slide around in that mud!

Gameplay balance. Naughty Dog describes Uncharted as a “summer blockbuster you play” and this is fairly accurate. It’s a slightly throwback Spielberg-style Indian Jones / National Treasure blockbuster at that. But the actual gameplay is divided between exploring, climbing, puzzle solving, driving, moving along the plot, and a mixed stealth & gun fighting gameplay were you beat up on clusters of mercenaries. The balance between these activities has been slightly adjusted from previous Uncharted games. The driving (boat and jeep) has been added, but the percentage of climbing seems to have been increased and shooting reduced. I really prefer climbing / exploring to fighting in this particular style, so that’s all good by me. Also, it seems that there is more “moving the plot along” stuff, by which I mean relatively trivial things you “do” (like dragging a water bucket down to the puddle to fill it up) that is needed to move along the plot. Interestingly, these tasks, as mundane as they are, do add to the verisimilitude. They almost “feel” like puzzle solving, even though the game usually tells you exactly what to do. That being said, there are half a dozen real puzzles in the game, along the lines of a more complicated Raider‘s map room. You can either “puzzle” them out or google them.

The climbing can really get complicated

The climbing can really get complicated

It’s also worth noting how this balance is different than in TLOU, which has a lot more stealth, no formal puzzles, and a much less “forgiving” hit and recovery system. TLUO also has collecting materials and crafting useful “tools” like grenades, shivs, healthpacks, etc. and a rudimentary RPG system where you can level up weapons and certain abilities. I really like collecting and “leveling”, and it gives you a reason to explore the gorgeous environments, so one of my biggest “beefs” (in the context of a fabulous game) with UC4 is the scarcity of pickups. Basically, there are the treasures, and these are pretty few and far between and often rather hidden. Naughty Dog deliberately uses this as a differentiation point from TLOU, but I miss collecting. There is also very little weapon progression in Uncharted. You grab what guns are at hand. They all kinda work. I usually take whatever has the most ammo, generally staying away from the grenade launchers and the like. There are some bigger guns toward the end like the RPG and Gatling gun, but they don’t have significant strategic use. Overall, the choice of weapon in Uncharted is far less relevant than it is in TLOU, where the varied characteristics are almost mandatory choices for different encounters. Only on a couple occasions in UC4 do you actually NEED to be using a high impact weapon (shotgun) or a sniper rifle. And there exists no choice of knife, bow etc. All stealth kills are by hand (or foot).

Interestingly, while UC4 still has levels in a dim sort of way, it pretty much eschews the whole boss concept. At most, there is one at the end. And there are big set piece levels like the truck chase, but there even the single boss isn’t exactly like Bloodborne or Dark Souls III‘s 15-20 massive traditional bosses. This isn’t a game about repeatedly dying so you can figure out a difficult series of reactions to lethal moves.

Pirates love puzzles!

Pirates love puzzles!

Sound 10/10. The sound is just seamlessly there in UC4. There is just a LOT of it, and it just sells this giant adventure as you’d expect. The music is right on style. Don’t underestimate how much work this was.

Check out the view!

Nathan likes to be “on time”

Technology 11/10. It’s easy to just say that UC4 is the best looking video game ever, and that the animation and control, and shaders are perfect (given the current state of PS4 tech). They are, but a lot of people had to work really hard to make that happen. And the kind of tech that squeezes that much performance out of the same hunk of hardware that all those other PS4 games run on is impressive — which means impressive programmers. Some Naughty Dog programmer(s) had to code all those cool rope and jeep and mud physics, allow for the ridiculous shader passes, sit there with the artists and work out the luminous shadows and lighting, blend all the different joints, wrangle the data so the load times are barely there, etc etc etc. Most PS4 games have abysmal load times! The power of current machines and engines has sometimes allowed all that vast amount of code to slip onto the perceptual back burner, but I’m sure it’s just as hairy as it was twenty years ago in the Crash Bandicoot era. Which brings up:

Holy Mickey Mouse: Castle of Illusion -- gear climbing!

Holy Mickey Mouse: Castle of Illusion — gear climbing!

Crash Bandicoot revival. Idea 12/10. Execution 9/10. Just having a bit of Crash in here was so cool and so apropos — particularly given the Indiana Jones nature of Uncharted and obvious reference of the boulder level. It also must have been a helluva lot of work. Crash‘s code and assets are incredibly complicated. I don’t even know if they emulated it or recoded it. I suspect the later as per the 1 point execution ding, which is that the “feel” is just slightly off. The game inside the game looks and sounds pretty much exactly right — except maybe for Crash’s spin which looks a little weird — but the control is just slightly funny. I even went back and popped in the real deal to check. True, this is Crash 1, and Crash 1‘s controls are significantly stiffer and harder than Crash 2 and 3 (where reworked logic and the analog stick vastly improved them), but it still feels just a tiny nitpicky bit different. [ update 6/6/16: Neil Druckmann tells me that one guy recoded the whole sequence (using the original art/sound assets). No wonder it’s just a touch different, but amazingly impressive getting it so close. ]

Multiplayer. I haven’t tried it. Not usually that into death-matches, but that’s just me. I like co-op.

Overall 9.5/10. Uncharted 4 is a spectacular game, and any PS4 owner that doesn’t play it better be the kind that only buys sports games or have a severe allergy to pirates. It’s a solid 20 hours of ridiculously high production value fun. It’s spectacularly polished. It’s the best looking video game yet made. It’s a romping good story and better than most blockbuster movies (which kinda suck these days). It’s just not quite as much a ground breaking masterpiece as TLOU which is the best “story game” made so far. Nor actually to my taste does it offer as much fantasy creeptastic evil challenging monster killing gameplay as equally masterful but less polished Bloodborne. But that last game is far more niche and I’m a dark fantasy lover, so consider me weird. UC4 is like Back to the Future in terms of its mastery: perfect execution and awesome entertainment, just not the deepest thing in the world.

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I guess he had "fear of heights" surgically removed

I guess Nathan had “fear of heights” surgically removed

Related posts:

  1. Uncharted 3 Reviews Live
  2. New Naughty Dog Franchise – The Last of Us
  3. The Last of Us – My Review
  4. Naughty Dog – A Pedigree Breed
  5. Games, Novels, and Story
By: agavin
Comments (11)
Posted in: Games
Tagged as: Adventure game, Nathan Drake (character), Naughty Dog, Sony Computer Entertainment, Uncharted, Uncharted 4, video game review
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