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Archive for Greek cuisine

Posh Taverna – Avra

Jan03

Restaurant: Avra Beverly Hills Estiatorio

Location: 233 N Beverly Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 734-0841

Date: November 18, 2019

Cuisine: Greek

Rating: Pricey, but the quality is excellent

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New York City’s famed, authentic Greek restaurant Avra Madison Estiatorio has opened its first west coast outpost, appropriately named AVRA  Beverly Hills.  Located in the “Golden Triangle” of Beverly Hills, AVRA Beverly Hills is designed by award-winning architecture and design firm Rockwell Group. The firm has created an atmosphere similar to that of an open-air villa in Greece, with fresh lemon trees, imported limestone, and stone washed walls. The new 11,000-square-foot eatery, with private spaces for all types of events, features traditional Greek cuisine with an emphasis on fresh seafood.

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Now I have to admit, as much as I like Greek food (and I do), this is an odd, very Beverly Hills concept. It’s SO built out — millions I’m sure.
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There is a huge Beverly Dr patio.
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That blends indoor outdoor — perfect on a lovely LA day.
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And the enormous white tablecloth interior.
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Complete with booths.
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Like in Greece they have fresh seafood in the ice case for the picking — although I’ve never seen it this fancy in Greece.
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Look at those huge Santa Barbra prawns!

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The lunch menu.
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I’m not sure if we had to explicitly pay for this flatbread, olives, etc. The olives were great actually — too bad there were exactly 4 of them!
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SALMON TARTAR. Faroe Islands salmon, fresno peppers, cilantro, shallots. Great potato chips too, super crispy.
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SPANAKOPITA. oven baked filo, fresh spinach, feta, leeks. Some of the freshest, most elegant Spanakopita I have ever seen. Super flakey.
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TUNA TARTARE. Hawaiian big eye tuna, shallot vinaigrette, serrano peppers. Colorful!
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Grilled Mediterranean fish of the day, vegetables.
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HALIBUT. Carcoal grilled fillet, spanakorizo (spinach rice).
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Grilled Jumbo Shrimp. Savory eggplant potato moussaka. I ordered this because of the Moussaka. I love Moussaka and it wasn’t on the menu per se. Moussaka was very good, if small, hints of nutmeg. Grilled shrimp were excellent, although “basic” enough.
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Side of Tzatziki. It was good. The size was laughable.
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The dessert menu.
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CHOCOLATE-YOGURT CHEESECAKE. Raspberry-Rosewater Sauce, Chocolate Bark. Very very rich.
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BAKLAVA. Almonds, Honey Syrup. Maybe the best Baklava I’ve had? Super moist, sweet, with lots of nuts and a very crunchy pastry.
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The build out is lovely. Service was excellent. Quality was excellent. The atmosphere amazing. Portion sizes tiny. The menu needs some more of the classics like a real moussaka, baby lamb kleftiko, etc. It’s got too much “Filet Mignon” and “lamb chops.” You don’t see that in Greece! That’s to please the Beverly Hills white hairs. Still, I’d like to come back for dinner — although perhaps on someone else’s dime!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Related posts:

  1. Quick Eats: Taverna Tony
  2. Eating Senigallia – Taverna Porto
  3. Inotheke – Modern Greek
  4. San Fran – Kokkari
  5. Posh Spice
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Avra, Beverly Hills, Dessert, Greek cuisine, Moussaka

Eating Mammoth – Jimmy’s

Feb15

Restaurant: Jimmy’s Taverna

Location: 248 Old Mammoth Rd, Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546.  (760) 934-2515

Date: January 3, 2018

Cuisine: Vaguely Greek

Rating: Nice decor, middling execution

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I’ve been to Jimmy’s once before and found it middling, as it “seems” like a Greek Taverna but doesn’t really satisfy with the hearty classic food like the real versions (I’ve spent 4 summers in Greece). They do have a nice build out and friendly service, however. Plus when I had a reservation screw up (on my part) they were extremely accommodating.

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The menu reads ok.
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From my cellar: 2007 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers. BH 91-93. A distinctly animale note characterizes the more deeply pitched nose that is very Nuits in character with pungent earth notes suffusing the red and blue pinot fruit aromas that introduce rich, full and seductive medium plus weight flavors as the dry extract confers a velvety quality to the wonderfully complex finish that delivers outstanding length. The rounded tannins are moderately firm and this will require 8 to 10 years in the cellar first before it will really blossom. Highly recommended.
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HUMMUS. chickpea, tahini, roasted garlic, lemon.
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DUNGENESS CRAB STACK. mango, papaya, avocado, spicy passionfruit puree. Not bad.

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Flaming cheese! (classic)
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SAGANAKI. Ouzo-flamed kefalotyri cheese “Opa!”.

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KING CRAB RISOTTO. saffron, asparagus, parmesan, mascarpone, blood orange broth. They don’t know how to make risotto — the texture was horrible on this, very over cooked and pasty. Now I know risotto is hard, but if you can’t do it, don’t do it.

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WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO. mascarpone, chevre, wild mushroom ragout, parmesan crisp. Same terrible texture. Maybe they aren’t using the right rice, maybe they just don’t know how to do it.

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CIOPPINO ~ FISHERMAN’S STEW. shrimp, mussels, oyster, salmon, potato, tomato broth.

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MOUSSAKA. ground lamb, tomato, herbs, eggplant, mushrooms, cheese sauce. The taste of this moussaka was okay, not amazing, but fine, but the portion size was a bit laughable for an entree. It’s like the size of a (small) creme brule!
Overall, I got a similar feeling from Jimmy’s that I did a couple of years ago. Build out is great (for Mammoth), service is good, and they have a nice looking menu for the most part, but they don’t executive super well on everything. I’d prefer just hearty well done classic Taverna food like at Tony’s.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Mammoth – Skadi
  2. Eating San Sebastian – Borda Berri
  3. Eating d’Agliano – La Quercia
  4. Eating Orvieto – Maurizio
  5. Eating Xi’an – Warrior Lunch
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Greek cuisine, Jimmy's Taverna, Mammoth, Mammoth Lakes

Return to Inotheke

Nov21

Sometimes I like my Greek pretty “traditional” but Inotheke struck a nice balance as they had many of traditional dishes, merely with updated plating (that’s a plus). Flavors were good and bright and I like the sharing format.

Click here for the full write up…

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Related posts:

  1. Inotheke – Modern Greek
  2. Return to Esso
  3. Return of the Han Dynasty
  4. Jak & Daxter Return
  5. Yamakase Return
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Greek cuisine, Inotheke

Inotheke – Modern Greek

Mar23

Restaurant: Inotheke

Location: 606 Broadway #101, Santa Monica, CA 90401. 310) 458-3366

Date: March 19 & November 11, 2016

Cuisine: Modern Greek

Rating: Good flavors

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I’m always on the lookup for new local restaurants, plus I like Greek food, so I as excited to hear about modern Greek eatery Inotheke.

 Located right near the promenade on Broadway.

The menu is full of reinvented classics, but tuned toward sharing and small plates.

Likewise the interior is modern and clean, with only a touch of blue and white to remind us of the “theme.”

Tzatziki. I never eat Greek without ordering my favorite tangy yogurt. This version was pretty good. Tangy, garlicky, but not as thick as I like it.

The pita was grilled, soft, and greek style.

Oven Roasted Beet salad. Arugula, goat cheese, red onion, dill, lemon vinaigrette. Fairly typical, but still a tasty salad.

Spanakopitakia. Feta, kaseri, spinach, red pepper. Got to love fried pastry encrusted cheese!

Scallop tartare. Cucumber, lemon, olive, chili flakes. This had a good bit of dill too and was quite “Greek” in flavor. The scallops were nicely firm. Good stuff overall.

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Salmon “Exohiko”. (11/5/16) Filo Pastry, Eggplant, Zucchini, Capers. Basically salmon baked in a pastry!

Shrimp Saganaki. Tomato Sauce, feta, ouzo. A version of the classic greek dish. Sometimes in Greece it was cheesier and creamier, but this was solid. Lots of acid.

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Scallop Saganaki (11/5/16). Tomato, Feta, Ouzo, Scallions, Rice. On our second visit, Inotheke mixed up their Saganaki, venturing away from the classic shrimp to scallop (never seen that in Greece) and adding in some lovely rice underneath. The rice alone made this version better.
 Lamb & Orzo. Tomato, Parmesan. My favorite dish of the night. Basically like a lamb risotto or pasta. Nice texture from the orzo and appropriate lambiness from the soft meat, plus the cheese really worked.

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Moussaka. (11/5/16) Ground Beef, Eggplant, Zucchini, “Bechamel”. A nice version of one of my favorite Greek dishes. Lots of goopy Béchamel!

Overall I liked Inotheke and I’ll be back. Sometimes I like my Greek pretty “traditional” but this split a nice balance as they had many of traditional dishes, merely with updated plating (that’s a plus). Flavors were good and bright and I like the sharing format — plus it’s very convenient.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Petros Greek Feast
  2. Aestus – And the Modern Plate
  3. Parlez Vu Modern?
  4. Quick Eats: Taverna Tony
  5. More Modern Dim Sum
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: California, Greek cuisine, lamb, Moussaka, Santa Monica, Small Plates, Tzatziki

Petros Greek Feast

Apr01

Restaurant: Petros Restaurant

Location: B110, 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd. Manhattan Beach, CA. (310) 545-4100

Date: March 29, 2015

Cuisine: Greek

Rating: Best Greek I’ve had in LA

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Tonight’s dinner was originally supposed to be special Hedonistic home cooked Greek Easter Feast by chef Popi Terzi but the chef had a last minute medical emergency and we relocated to a Manhattan Beach Greek restaurant.


Tonight’s special menu.


2004 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut La Grande Dame. VM 93. Vivid gold. Heady aromas of orange, white peach and smoky minerals, with a note of buttered toast adding depth. Densely packed citrus and pit fruit flavors show chewy texture and a bright mineral quality that adds vivacity. Rich but lively and precise, finishing very long, with notes of candied fig and toasty lees.


Skordalia (Heavenly Garlic dip) with pita bread.


From my cellar: 2007 Venica & Venica Malvasia. 91 points. Medium-deep straw-yellow. Aromas of yellow plum, apricot and almond. Lively, round and smooth, with good breadth and subtle suggestions of yellow plum and minerals carrying through to the long, vibrant finish.

Taramosalata (Fish Egg dip). Aged smoked caviar blended with onions, fresh lemon juice. This classic had a nice blend of the briny red mullet roe and a good amount of lemon juice to offset.


1998 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia. VM 93. Bright yellow. Pungent minerally, floral aromas of pear skin, peach pit and bee pollen, with a waxy overtone. The palate offers intense dried orchard and citrus fruit flavors and suggestions of anise, jasmine and honey, with a firm spine of acidity adding lift and focus. Finishes fleshy and spicy, with repeating floral and waxy qualities.


Rustic Tyropita. Homemade phyllo dough stuffed with a mousse of Greek cheeses. Drizzled with Greek honey. The sweet/salty/savory vibe here was great. Very addictive.


2010 Gérard Raphet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques. Burghound 91. A more deeply pitched red and dark berry fruit nose is at once cool but ripe as it also evidences hints of spice, wet stone and warm earth. There is good concentration to the solidly intense medium-bodied flavors that possess plenty of extract that coats the palate on the relatively powerful finish. This is more robust and firmer than the Combottes but a bit less refined. A qualitative choice.

agavin: too young, but after an hour in the glass began to open up.


Grilled Octopus served with boiled beets, vinegar, garlic, EVO and oregano sauce.


2010 Fattoria Galardi Terra di Lavoro Roccamonfina IGT. VM97+. I have a strong feeling the 2010 will occupy a place among the very finest vintages produced on this tiny vineyard on the slopes of the Roccamonfina volcano. An exotic mélange of tar, smoke, graphite, blackberry jam and savory herbs explode from the glass. The 2010 is intense and full-bodied, yet also incredibly elegant. A big, breathtaking wine, the 2010 continues to build all the way through to a deeply resonant, expressive finish. I would choose to leave this uttterly beguiling Campanian red alone for the better part of a decade, but readers are going to have a very hard time excercising that patience. This is a fabulous effort from proprietors Arturo and Dora Celentano, and their long-time winemaker Riccardo Cotarella.

agavin: I have 6 bottles of this in my cellar, but I’m not cracking one for at least 5 years!


Shrimp Saganaki. Sautéed tender shrimp with a tomato basil feta cheese sauce. I spent over 3 weeks in Greece last summer (and three summers before that) and this was a very authentic Saganaki. I love the bright acidic tomato/cheese sauce.


2009 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT. AG 94. The 2009 Flaccianello is gorgeous, but the relative shortcomings of the year relative to the sublime 2010 are apparent when the wines are tasted side by side. Firm tannins support a core of dark red fruit, smoke and crushed flowers. Readers will need to give the 2009 time to settle down, but it is unquestionably a fine Flaccianello.

agavin: the 2009 was rounder than the 2010 and drinking better at the moment.


Fasolatha. Traditional Greek vegetable bean soup with feta & EVO.


2010 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT. AG 96. A rush of intense blue and black stone fruits, tobacco, smoke, licorice, spices and new leather hits the palate in the 2010 Flaccianello. A wine of considerable immediacy and intensity, the 2010 captivates all the senses with its magnificent richness and pure texture. There is so much to like here.

agavin: start drinking date is 2018!


Avgolemono. Homemade egg lemon, chicken, rice soup. Very nice mild lemony rice flavor.


2010 Ramey Cabernet Sauvignon Annum. VM 92-96. Inky ruby. Lively dark berry and cherry scents are complemented by licorice, fruitcake and vanilla, with a spicy nuance adding lift. Sweet, palate-coating blueberry and cherry liqueur flavors become more energetic with air and pick up a sexy floral nuance. Distinctly powerful yet lithe, with zesty spice and mineral notes adding bite to the long, subtly tannic finish.


2009 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. VM 96. There is no question the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is the most backward and brooding of the wines I tasted from Pride. Firm tannins frame an expressive core of dark red berries, licorice, scorched earth, tobacco, smoke and incense. Today, the 2009 is far too young to offer true pleasure, but it is unquestionably striking. Hints of iron, graphite and smoke add complexity on the finish supported by huge mountain tannins. The 2009 is super distinctive and loaded with personality.


Horiatiki Salata (Traditional Greek salad: Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Feta, Olives, etc). The addition of avocado felt a bit California, but it worked.


2012 Leonesse Cellars Grand Mélange Signature Selection.


1999 Turley Petite Syrah Estate Vineyard. VM 90. Opaque black ruby. Sauvage aromas of roasted meat, leather, blackberry, minerals and lead pencil. Bright and dense but not yet complex. Finishes persistent but a bit youthfully aggressive. Hard to assess today but shows very good vinosity and noteworthy aromatic complexity.


French fries. Ketchup and garlic aioli. This were excellent fries.


2005 Château Gruaud Larose. Tanzer 90-93. Good red-ruby. Redcurrant, leather and game on the expressive if slightly rustic nose. Sweet and concentrated but a bit youthfully aggressive, and not showing the refinement or definition of the 2006. Strong nutty oak component. Finishes with substantial tannins that are a bit richer and more fully buffered by the wine’s middle-palate material than those of the 2006. It will be interesting to compare these two vintages in ten years or so.

agavin: along with the CNDP one of the best reds tonight, particularly after an hour or so open.


Moussaka. A Classic Hellenic dish with eggplant, ground beef, tomatoes, and homemade béchamel sauce served village style. I think traditionally it’s usually lamb. The texture and flavor on this Moussaka were great. Perhaps it could have used a touch more nutmeg, but that’s me.


From my cellar: 2000 Les Cailloux (Lucien et Andre Brunel) Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire. Parker 96. The heady 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire is more evolved than either the 2001 or 1998. Extremely full-bodied, with low acidity, and a knock-out bouquet of blackberry and cherry jam intermixed with licorice, pepper, and dried Provencal herbs, this sexy, voluptuous, enormously concentrated 2000 possesses a huge, silky, seamless finish. Drink this irresistible effort now and over the next 12-15 years.

agavin: after a bit of funk blew off, it was a great CNDP and perfect with the lamb below.


Succulent Braised Lamb with Artichokes and Lemons (This is a Petros “off the menu” special). This is a very traditional dish, and I’ve had variants of it in Greece many times. It’s more a stew than the usual “roast lamb”.


2006 Estate Argyros Vinsanto 4 Years Barrel Aged. Parker 90. The 2006 Vinsanto “4 Years Barrel Aged” is one of a series of Vinsantos (4 years, 12 and 20, and Mezzo, with the Mezzo soon to be discontinued). As a result of the shorter barrel aging and shorter sun drying time for the grapes (8-10 days instead of 12-14), its color is lighter than the 20-year Vinsanto reviewed this issue and the wine is less intense and less aromatic. It is still quite fine. Fragrant, delectable and crisp, it drinks extremely well and it had no problem whatsoever lasting several days after opening. It was better on Day 2, actually, when it gathered strength and woke up.


Loukouma. Baby Greek doughnuts drizzled with Greek honey, cinnamon, toasted walnuts and vanilla ice cream. Awesome!


5  layer chocolate cake. Five layers of chocolate cake with chocolate fudge icing served with vanilla ice cream and walnuts.


2004 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume. VM 90. Bright yellow-gold. Expressive aromas of poached pear, candied citrus, honey and white peach. A broad, lush, fruit-driven wine that offers sweet orchard and pit fruit flavors lifted by fresh orange and spice components. Gains weight with air and finishes with very good cling and echoes of honey and peach. This is ready to drink.


Bougatsa. Vanilla bean and Semolina custard wrapped in phyllo, served with vanilla ice cream and walnuts. Another amazing dessert.


Baklava. Walnuts, almonds, and pistachio wrapped in phyllo soaked with citrus syrup. Not one of those boring “dry” baklavas, this one dripped with sticky goodness.


All and all a fun and tasty  meal. Nearly every dish was very good, many, like the shrimp, the moussaka, and all the desserts were great. Good fun.

For good luck, there were a couple plate drops too.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

Related posts:

  1. Red Medicine – Elfin Feast
  2. Friday Night Feast 2014
  3. New Year’s Feast
  4. Japanese in China – Izakaya Akatora
  5. Lofty Heights
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Dessert, Greek cuisine, hedonists, Manhattan Beach, Petros Restaurant, Wine

Quick Eats: Taverna Tony

Dec10

Restaurant: Taverna Tony

Location: 23410 Civic Center Way, Malibu, CA 90265, Tel: (310) 317-9667

Date: Dec 10, 2010

Cuisine: Greek

 

I have a weakness for Greek food. I spent big chunks of the summers of 1990 and 1991 in Greece, and a month in 2005. I know it isn’t always the fanciest (although in 2005 I had a brilliant modern Greek meal on the Island of Rhodos), but I love the flavor palette, particularly lamb and yoghurt. And Tzatziki, which I absolutely can’t get enough of. Here in LA our favorite Greek haunt is Taverna Tony. We haven’t exactly tried a zillion of them either, but Tony’s is fun.

The menu.

The serve one of the typical creamy greek spreads with their bread. This is one of the yogurt, garlic, eggplant, olive oil type ones. A guilty pleasure.

As big a wine snob as I am, I’m also a huge believer in drinking the local beverage. I actually like Greek wine. This one is a mainland wine made by monks, Tsantali Agioritikos. In my opinion the best Greek whites (I don’t really drink Greek reds) are from Santorini. If you want the really authentic flavor, go for Retsina — Tony has it — makes me remember my college summers in Greece, but not to everyone’s taste.

One thing about Tony’s, they have mega sized portions (to use the Greek). My wife always gets the “Vegetarian’s paradise” which is basically every dip and vegetarian appetizer known in Greece. It comes on two plates, the hot and cold. Don’t even think about trying to order an appetizer, or even a salad unless you have a lot of people. A partial list of what’s included is: Hummus, Tzatziki, Melitzanosalata, Tabouli, Spanakopita, Tiropita, Feta Cheese, Horta.

The hot plate of above. Spanakopita etc. You can see the ubiquitous rice and overcooked vegetables (I like them this way at Greek and Turkish places).


This is the “ROAST BABY LAMB KLEFTIKO, Baby Lamb, slow-roasted with Herbs, Garlic, Onions, Oregano – A House Specialty that melts in your mouth.” That pretty much says it all.

In case you couldn’t see the lamb itself well enough, here it is again!  Baah!

I always get a side of “TZATZIKI DIP  Fresh Yoghurt, Cucumber, Fresh Mint, Garlic.” Roast lamb is just not roast lamb unless slathered in Tzatziki.

It’s worth noting that the atmosphere is fun here, and they have very loud live Greek music. There seem to be an endless supply of families throwing some kind of big dinner’s with like 20-30 people at huge long tables laden with food — this also is very Greek. There might be better Greek food in town (if anyone knows please tell me), but I’m perfectly happy with my monthly dose of lamb, yogurt, and Greek wine.


You can see the band in the corner.


A giant table arrayed on the patio.

Related posts:

  1. Quick Eats: Coastal Flats
  2. Quick Eats: La Cachette Bistro
  3. Quick Eats: Pizzeria Mozza
  4. Quick Eats: Mon Ami Gabi
  5. Quick Eats: Piccolo
By: agavin
Comments (13)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Cooking, Feta, Food, Grape Leaves, Greece, Greek, Greek cuisine, Greek wine, lamb, Lamb and mutton, Malibu California, Restaurant, Retsina, reviews, Rhodos, Santorini, side dishes, Spanakopita, Tiropita, Tzatziki, vegetarian, Wine, yogurt
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