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Archive for Japanese cuisine

Sushi Sonagi

Oct20

Restaurant: Sushi Sonagi

Location: 1425 Artesia Blvd UNIT 27, Gardena, CA 90248.

Date: March 2, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi (Omakase)

Rating: Awesome

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Situated inside of a historic South Bay strip mall, Sushi Sonagi is Daniel Son’s 8 seat Omakase sushi restaurant that serves to highlight and celebrate the rich sushi culture of Japan, Korea, and California summed up in an omakase.

Sushi Sonagi is a call to honor the spirit of sushi by utilizing the highest quality local ingredients as much as possible. Chef Daniel Son comes as a second generation sushi chef, trained at some of the best Michelin graced restaurants around the world, and is now venturing beyond to bring his journey and heart to his hometown of Gardena, California. The vision at Sushi Sonagi is a culmination of a menu inspired by Japanese and Korean cuisine, techniques, and hospitality that reflects the rich and diverse history of its region, South Bay, California.

With his humble and jovial nature, he continues to strive to hone his craft’s pursuit of perfection, and dreams that guests will enjoy a heartwarming meal at his counter. As such, Sushi Sonagi wishes to create a relaxed and intimate ambience for you and your dining partners.

Artesia strip mall location. Near several In-and-Outs.


Classic sushi bar.



Our menu.

Fish hanging out.

Very attractive room. Reminded me of Yamakase 1.0.


Chawanmush. Lion’s Mane, SB Uni, Gamtae.

Ankimo Tart. Astrea Kaluga Caviar.

Seki Saba Sando. Mackerel Sandwich. Inspired by Gion Rohan, Kyoto.

Madai. Sea Bream. Oita.

Shima Aji. Striped Jack. Kagoshima.

Shiro Ebi. Baby White Shrimp. Toyama.

Seki Aji. Horse Mackerel. Oita.

Katsuura Kinmedai. Golden Eye Snapper. Chiba.

Sawara. King Mackerel. Fukuoka.

Aorika. Big Reef Squid. Kagoshima.

Mirugai. Giant Clam. Canada.

Sumagatsuo. Winter Skipjack. Nagasaki.

Kohada. Gizzard Shad. Kumamoto.

Akagai. Ark Shell Clam. Korea.


Carabineros. Scarlet Shrimp. Spain.


Uni. Sea Urchin. Hokkaido.

Ganjang Gejang. Soy Fermented Crab. Korea.

Anago. Sea Eel. Nagasaki.


Dolsot Kuroawabi. Abalone Stone Pot Rice. Aomori.

Dungeness Crab Soup. Shingiku, Citrus. Oregon.

Miso Butter Atsuyaki Tamago. Miso Butter Omelet. Pretty amazing salty/sweet taste.

Sake Kasu Ice Cream. Miso Caramel, Bubu Arare. Hyogo.

Great wines.
Fun and fabulous dinner. Really on point sushi with exceptional balance by a local southland chef.

For more LA dining reviews click here.













Related posts:

  1. Food as Art – Sushi Sushi
  2. Sushi Sushi – Small Omakase
  3. Sushi Sushi = Yummy Yummy
  4. Sushi Sushi Sushi
  5. Newest Oldest Sushi
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Gardena, Japanese cuisine, Liz Lee, Nigiri, Sage Society, Southbay, Sushi, Sushi Sonagi, Wine

Shin Sushi

Aug28

Restaurant: Shin Sushi

Location: 16573 Ventura Blvd, Encino, CA 91436. (818) 616-4148

Date: December 6, 2023

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi

Rating: Very solid high end sushi

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I’ve been wanting to try Shin for some time.
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Here is our extremely enthusiastic host!
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Appetizer plate of river crab, seasonal mushrooms, house-made tofu, monkfish liver, conche etc.
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Little snapper and adult snapper of the same fish breed.
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Black snapper.
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Hokkaido scallop with yuzu.
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Blue fin tuna from Spain with 100 year soy sauce.
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Torched Japanese Ocean Trout — one of my favorites.
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Menagi baby chive sushi. really great actually.
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Fish bone miso. Very rich and lovely.
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Japanese sardine with Salt and vinegar.
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Japanese seasonal whitefish in the snapper family (he likes snapper!)
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Santa Barbara sweet shrimp.
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Buri (yellowtail).
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Otoro slightly seared with binchochan charcoal.
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Hokkaido uni.
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Tamago.
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Ice cream with sweet sauce.
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Coffee jelly and cream.
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Got crabs? This was a really fun dinner with lots of great champ and whites (particularly my Lafon). The chef is very nice and extremely enthusiastic. He’s definately a highly skilled sushi chef and the food reflected that. My only issue is that the rice was very lightly vinegared and I like an assertive vinegar on my sushi rice as I’m an acid fiend.
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For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Sushi Sushi – Small Omakase
  2. Food as Art – Sushi Sushi
  3. Shin Beijing Again
  4. Sushi Zo
  5. Mori Sushi – A Top Contender
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: hedonists, Japanese cuisine, SFV, shin sushi

OOtoro 2023 part deux

Jul31

Restaurant: OOToro [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11]

Location: 1569 Fairway Dr, Walnut, CA 91789. (909) 598-8299

Date: November 4, 2023

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi (with slight nod to China)

Rating: Ends of the earth, but very good

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Chef Kaz of Totoraku, an occasional hedonist, sent us far east to this Sushi restaurant in 2016 and it was such a fun time that we had to return again for a sixth visit — it’s now become a twice a year thing.

 And by far east I mean REALLY REALLY far east — to Walnut California. 40+ miles from my house. 20 miles past Alhambra (which most people consider to far to drive for food). It took an hour and twenty minutes on a Saturday night!

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Look how clear it is after the rains (and snows).

The slick looking location is in the heart of the affluent Chinese American San Gabriel Valley. But yes, it’s Japan, if perhaps catering to Chinese taste. This photo was shot at about 10pm after everyone else had left.

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Here is the private room — the only way to go.

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They put up this weird curtain recently.

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Uni, crab, caviar and some kind of ponzu jelly. Nice chunky crab but that cheap non-sturgeon caviar.
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The yellow stick was a bit of crunchy fish roe, then proceeding right we have tender Abalone, Shirako (cod sperm sacks and always a favorite of mine) and some kind of fish tempura.
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Zoom.
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Wagyu tartar, fried seaweed, uni, truffle, and avocado. A great tartar bite with nice textural contrasts.
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Tri of oysters: Caviar, uni, and Ikura (salmon roe). All great.
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Hokkaido live scallops with caviar (more real this time) and Hokaido uni. A bit of fresh yuzu juice really “juiced” this up.
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Sashimi plate of Shima Aji, Blue fin tuna, and Otoro with two slices of Monkfish liver.
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Spanish Mackerel. Oily and delicious.
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Golden Eye Snapper nigiri.
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Skipjack Tuna with a bit of spicy ponzu.
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Kama Toro. The always butter-like richest bit of tuna!
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Seared Ruby Snapper Nigiri with some sweet miso. They called this the Queen of the Whitefish.
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Charcoal grilled crab leg.
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The awesome “BBQ Kama Toro” plate. It’s like ducky tuna and fishy smoked duck and is incredibly rich and delicious. Great with that special soy too.
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Flaming sea snail with mushrooms. Chewy.
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A5 Wagyu Tataki. Seared with a bit of pepper. Supper rich and fatty and melt in your mouth.
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Clam Miso. Awesome clammy flavor.
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Cheesecake with strawberries.
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Strawberry Jam Gelato — an awesome daily Strawberry base swirled with Strawberry Jam — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — sugar time! — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #strawberry #jam
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Perfect pairing!
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Another great meal at ootoro. A bit of an overlap with last time but every dish was great.

For more LA dining reviews click here,

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

 

Related posts:

  1. OOToro Spring
  2. Post OOToro
  3. OOToro Double
  4. OOToro Holiday
  5. OOToro Five O
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Champagne, Gelato, Hacienda Heights, Japanese cuisine, ootoro, Sushi, Wine

Yes to Yess

Jul28

Restaurant: Yess

Location: 2001 E 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021.

Date: October 25, 2023

Cuisine: Modern Japanese

Rating: Good, but restrained

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From a bright orange sashimi food truck to a haven for smoky wood-grilled dishes, this Arts District spot from lauded London chef Junya Yamasaki fits right in with the buzzing neighborhood. Order something from the ever-changing menu, grab a drink, and then expect to order at least another round.
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Modern build out of this warehouse, although my photos suck.
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The small menu.
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Fresh Water Kimchi with Market Vegetables and Fruits. Very mild flavor. Joe loved these. I prefer a much more vinegar forward pickle flavor as these were very pleasant, but subtle.
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Boiled Peanuts. Surprisingly excellent.
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Bluefin “Akami Zuke” with Mustard-Pickled Eggplant and Wasabina. Clean straight up tuna with a nice zesty mustard.
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Halibut Fritters with Fresh Peppers, Spring Onion, and Ponzu. Delicious fried fish with this strong, and pretty spicy, topping.
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Monk’s “Chirashi-Sushi.” This autumn vegetarian version of a chirashi bowl was actually incredible. It was sweet, with varied textures, a smokey autumn vibe, and some subtle vinegar.
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Grilled Fig and Cacao Miso Soup. Gorgeous winter style miso with a bit of sweetness.
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Tuna Tartar with Soy Cured Egg Yolk and Mixed Vegetable Crisps. Awesome “toro” tartare with great soft texture and extreme richness.
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Grilled Miso Black Cod and New Season Turnips.
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Grilled Pork Collar. Grilled Peads and Barnetts Pork Collar with Ripe Peppers and Cannellini Bean Mash. Tasty.
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Grilled Lamb Loin Chop with Spinach, Mint, Beet Chips and Apple Salad. The lamb itself was nice, but the really great part was that herby salad. Loved the mint etc.
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Grilled Beef and Matsutake Mushroom. Stemple Creek Strip Loin and Matsutake Mushroom with Roasted Bone Marrow and Soy Egg Yolk. A pretty “healthy” portion of very solid steak and gorgeous mushrooms. It played nicely with the soy egg and when topped with bone marrow.
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Soy Egg Yolk.

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Peering at the bone marrow. Erick blew his out and a huge snot globblet of marrow fat landed on his plate!
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Hanging with the chef.
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This was a very interesting meal. Very different take on modernizing Japanese cuisine in a lovely build out — located in a sketchy DTLA location.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Artsy Toppings – Sushi of Gari
  2. Chi Spacca – The Return
  3. The Valley’s Secret Sushi|Bar
  4. Niku X – Hits the Spot
  5. Newest Oldest Sushi
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: DTLA, Foodie Club, Japanese cuisine, Wine, Yess

Kinjiro Return

Jul18

Restaurant: Kinjiro [1, 2]

Location: 424 E 2nd St, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 229-8200

Date: October 9, 2023

Cuisine: Japanese

Rating: Good modern Japanese comfort food

_

I last went here about a decade ago with the Babykillers — and before that to BOS in this same spot. BOS was good, but kinda extreme, being an offal restaurant. The owners then rebooted the space as Kinjiro, a modern Izakaya (bar with food), which has proved very popular.


It looks pretty much the same as it did before, with slight superficial alterations.

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Once upon a time, a boy named Ninomiya Kinjiro rose from humble origins and became one of the most beloved statesmen in Japan, bringing food and joy to the people during hard times via agricultural reform.
We, Nomiya (“Tavern”) KINJIRO, strive to carry on our namesake’s mission and bring happiness to our customers via good food & drink.
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Overall, Kinjiro really is one of the best Izakaya (food-wise) that I know of in town. Too bad it’s all the way downtown, as that’s further away than I usually like to drive for izakaya, as we have many on the westside. But this food is elevated just enough and execution really execellent.
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Our marked up menu.
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Uni, Ikura, Scallop & Blue Crab. The dashi on the side was thick and incredibly flavorful. It could be poured over for a pour “umami infusion.” Great textures and quite lovely.
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Close up.
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Seared Kanpachi (Amberjack) with Spicy Ponzu. Fish was pleasant but I prefer straight raw to seared. The spicy daikon had a bit of a kick.
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Cured Mackerel “Saba Kobujime” Sashimi. Very pleasant oilyness to the fish.
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Assorted “Nukazuke” Pickles. The Takuan (yellow) was the best. The others had a great crunch but mild acidity (I like a stronger pickle).
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Kibinago Sardine Tempura. Nice little fried baitfish with two salts.
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Agedashi Fried Tofu with Organic Mushrooms Ankake Sauce. OMG this is the best tofu. Super silky interior, a bit of crunchy fry around it, and that goopy dashi (similar to the thick dashi in the first dish) with lovely mushrooms.
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Closer view.
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Spanish Octopus with Japanese Peppercorn Aioli. Nice texture, good acidity, and I even enjoyed the tomatoes.
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An aoili and a macha salt for the octopus.
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Thick-cut Beef Tongue with Yuzu Negi. Very thick and meaty with a nice zingy/spicy sauce (the yuzu negi, which is what one sees over-piled on AYCE sushi trying to look “cool”).
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Bone Marrow Dengaku. Pretty tasty with quite a bit of sweet soy baked in.
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King Salmon Collar & Belly “Yuan-yaki”. Like super rich teriyaki salmon.
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Simmered Japanese Red Snapper Head. Very nice steamed fish meat.
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Beef Tendon, Tongue Miso Stew. I was a bit disappointed with this dish. Tasty, but pretty chewy.
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Uni Risotto. Nice and creamy. Excellent.
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Beef Tongue Curry Rice. OMG again. This might have been one of the best beef curries I’ve had. Perfect Japanese curry flavor. Could have used more of the iconic red pickles.
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Speaking of pickles…
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American Wagyu Sukiyaki-Don (Simmered Beef over Rice, Poached Egg).
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Mashed together this was delicious and tasted just like… sukiyaki!
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Grilled American Wagyu Boneless Short Rib over Rice. Basically like those Korean short ribs (slightly sweet with char flavor) over rice. Delicious!
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Sake Kasu Crème Brulee. Quite nice and silky.
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Black Sesame Mousse. Really great soft texture with a deliciate black sesame flavor.

Overall, an amazingly fun night. Great company. Great wines. And some really tasty comfort food that paired very well.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. 2002 White Burgundy at Kinjiro
  2. Yamakase Return
  3. Return of the Khan — Meteora
  4. Chi Spacca – The Return
  5. Quick Eats – Red Rock
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Foodie Club, Izakaya, Japanese cuisine, Kinjiro

Iki Ramen Insanity

Jul01

Restaurant: Iki Ramen

Location: 740 S Western Ave #115, Los Angeles, CA 90005. (424) 419-2772

Date: August 24, 2023

Cuisine: Modern Japanese

Rating: Big fun!

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Michael K organized this omakase buyout at Iki Ramen.
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Dreams do come true for these 4 best friends. 👏
Jeffry Undiarto (former n/naka GM), childhood friends Sabastian Karyadi (owner of ramen nagomi in New Jersey and formerly work at Mori sushi in LA) and chefs Hiroyuki Masato (formerly owner Poke Tendo, chef and manager at sushi chain sushi Mac) and Andy Juliady (owner seafood company based in downtown LA), together they co-founded Iki Ramen.
Giant shoutout to Michael organizing this private dinner to create more fantastic memories with new & old friends 🥰 Mary A Chevy Bonnie Joe Andy Erick Larry Brent Sebastian Aedyn Brad Gordan Conrad David Emily Fred Danielle David Linda Jio Jovi Jordan 🥂🍾🍷
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The interior before we swamped it out.
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A salad of white fish sashimi, greens, yuzu koshu, and pear. Very zesty and delicious.
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Just a few of the bottles.
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Tuna with truffle and a sweet soy. Delicious.
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Incredibly tender octopus with sunomono.
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Miso glazed cod.
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White fish “custard” (more a thickened stock)?
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Uni and squid ink pasta with truffles. This was an incredible pasta with a great chewy texture and absolutely delicious briny flavors.
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Scallop, burrata, and tomatoes. Who would have thought this would have paired — but it really did.
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Salmon, Tai, and crab sushi.
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Toro, uni, and wagyu sushi.
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Ginger.
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Yuzu Shio Ramen. Yuzu citrus + sea salt seasoned organic chicken broth+house dashi. slow-braised niman ranch pork belly, hanjuku tamago, menma, nori, scallions. Really awesome and complex flavor.

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Soft Shell Crab Bao. fried soft shell crab bao, cucumber, spicy mayo, chili garlic.

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Cucumber Cut Roll.
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Hand rolls.
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Uni Sushi.
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Toro sushi (chopped).
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Truffle Butter Tonkotsu. Rich, shoyu seasoned pork bone stock, with truffle butter, pork belly, egg, kikurage, sweet corn, scallions, nori. Very rich.
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Toro Uni Ikura don. Sushi rice, toro tartare, sea urchin, dashi ikura.
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Crispy Japanese dessert. The shell wasn’t sweet at all, but it was crunchy.
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Coconut Crunch Gelato — Coconut dairy custard base with Strawberry Wafers and house-made White Chocolate Coated Crunch Berries — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #coconut #crunch #crunchBerries #WhiteChocolate
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Almond Gelato and Chocolate Expresso Sorbetto

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Just a few bottles — the whole front row were ours!

Overall, this was a crazy fun evening. 23 people, very chaotic, over 30 wines, and tons of food. We had the whole place to ourselves so it was just a bit of a party. There were so many wines that things didn’t really run out either. Good times — except for the next morning.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Far Eastern Ramen
  2. Tatsu – Ramen with a Soul
  3. Jinya Ramen Bar
  4. It’s not really Silverlake Ramen
  5. Chicken or Egg? – Tentenyu Ramen
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Gelato, Japanese cuisine, ramen, Ski Ramen, Sushi, Wine

To Tama

Feb02

Restaurant: Sushi Tama

Location: 116 N Robertson Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048. (424) 249-3009

Date: May 15, 2023

Cuisine: Sushi

Rating: Solid Beverly Hills Sushi

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Kaz (from Totoraku) invited us to try this favorite sushi spot of his.
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Right across from The Ivy.
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Edamame.
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Baby squid with miso sauce.
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Super tender and succulent with that “in a good way” taste of the sea.

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Clams in “butter broth.” It was a delicious clam broth with a bit of butter and plenty of salt.
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Cubes of Seared Toro (tuna belly) with yuzu koshu. The salty/spicy zing of the yuzu koshu offsets the fatty char nicely.
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Seared Wagyu. A soft, nice bite, but just a single bite.
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Wasabi and ginger as usual.
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Halibut fin.
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Salmon. Very good salmon actually.
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Seared Hokaido scallop with toasted seaweed. Very enjoyable combo.
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Saba (Japanese Mackerel).
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Chu toro. Totally yummy as always.
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Hamachi. The most boring type.
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Sweet shrimp. Very nice.
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Sardine or some other small fish. I like these and enjoy the oily fish taste.
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Ikura (salmon roe). Extremely nice marinated ikura.
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Spanish Mackerel.
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Charred Sea Eel. Lovely.
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Hokaido Uni. Super tender and sweet.
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Clam Miso. This is always one of my favorite misos as I feel the clams add a nice equally saline complement to the miso’s inherent salinity.
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Fresh crab handroll.
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A kind of elevated Futomaki. Tuna, Ikura, Takuan, and chives. Excellent.
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Wasn’t cheap — but it is Beverly Hills.
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Overall, Tama was a very enjoyable “classic” sushi place. There aren’t a lot of “new style” or ponzu covered dishes, which is nice. This is mostly classic Japanese fare and well executed Tokyo style nigiri. It’s very much in the sushi tradition I grew up with in the 70s and 80s. This is the kind of place like the late lamented sushi sushi that I’d happily go by myself at lunch for a straight up “good sushi” fix.

For more dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Food as Art: Sasabune
  2. Sushi Sushi Sushi
  3. Sasabune – Dueling Omakases
  4. Sushi Sushi = Yummy Yummy
  5. Kiriko Days – a la Carte
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Japanese cuisine, Kaz, Sushi, Tama

Totally Takeda

Jul14

Restaurant: Takeda Sushi

Location: 123 Astronaut Ellison S Onizuka St #307, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 613-0083

Date: December 2, 2022

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi

Rating: Could be the best sushi I’ve had in LA

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For penultimate sushi blowout of the year we decided to head downtown and tryout the relatively new Sushi Takeda, which are the new digs for our old friend Chef Hide Takeda who sliced up some awesome fish at Tsujita Sushi for years. He’s recently earned a Michelin star here at Takeda too.
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It’s located on top of one of those very little Tokyo (and also SGV) vertical maxi-malls.
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Classic frontage.
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The gang at the bar. There are two nightly seatings for omakase.
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Jeffrey, of course, was pushing for his one favorite white burgundy love: Coche.

From my cellar: 1993 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. BH 90. A slightly reductive and fully mature nose features hints of exotic fruit and subtle earth notes that can also be found on the generous yet detailed medium weight plus flavors that are both delicious and impressively complex on the sappy and mouth coating finish. Lovely and drinking perfectly now. Consistent notes.

This was another of those bottles that Fred “didn’t trust” (because of their color) but which turned out to be absolutely amazing!
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1996 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets. BH 91. Exquisite nose of hazelnut and ripe melon with flavors that are not particularly dense but very fine, tight and beautifully detailed with plenty of minerality and outstanding acid/fruit balance. Even though this is young vine fruit, it shows excellent intensity on the long finish.
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2006 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 91. The 2006 Meursault Les Rougeots has a thrilling bouquet with a ton of reduction, yet somehow there is marvellous delineation and penetration. The palate is powerful, spicy and dense with a waxy mouthfeel and impressive density. It feels tangy in the mouth and yet it does not convey the same detail as the 1999 tasted alongside, on the finish. Still, this is a fine Meursault considering the vintage. Tasted at La Paulée in Beaune. (Drink between 2019-2030)

These professional scores are always way too low for these wines.
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Giant octopus from Hokkaido with Abalone and bonito dashi soup. On the side was a small container of special sour plum sake for dipping the octopus into. A lovely subtle soup with smokey dashi notes.
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Steamed female snow crab from Hokkaido. Two kinds of egg, the outer and inner eggs plus meat. Other non yuzu citrus to squeeze on top plus shiso flowers. Really fabulous bit of shellfish.

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Ginger, of course.
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Marinated bluefin tuna. Amazing and soft and a cloud.
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Young red snapper. Salty notes.
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Pike mackerel from Hokkaido topped with ginger scallion seaweed. This has a very short season and was insanely good.
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Toro takuan nigiri. The radish had a sweet mirin flavor. Overall an incredible bite.
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King mackerel with salt. Smoked like a deli fish.
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Intermezzo. Seaweed with mountain yam in vinegar. Really great.
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The shape…
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Hawaii abalone with abalone liver sauce. Cleanest version of this I’ve had.
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Shima-aji. Yellowtail amberjack. Tea like finish.
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2004 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet. BH 95. This is almost as backward as the Bienvenues though supremely elegant white flower and subtle spice aromas peek through the moderate reduction yet the piercingly mineral flavors display a beguiling sweetness on the crystalline and incredibly precise finish that seems to have no end. This will be a great wine in time as it’s clear that there is another dimension here compared to all of the previous wines. (Drink starting 2015)
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2010 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet. VM 97+. Bright pale yellow. Very pure, chalky aromas of lemon, lime, white flowers and iodine. Boasts outstanding tension and building intensity to its powerful lemon peel, pineapple and crushed stone flavors. Rare precision and inner-mouth perfume here. Saturates every square millimeter of the palate yet finishes with an impression of weightlessness. A wine of great finesse, this should go on for two decades or more. “The Batard is for the body while this is for the spirit,” notes winemaker Eric Remy. One of my favorite wines of the vintage.
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Ika squid with salty fermented snapper tripe on top. Best squid I’ve probably had.
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My 10th ginger.
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Golden eye snapper.
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2012 Louis Jadot Montrachet. BH 91-94. Mild sulfur detracts only faintly from the ultra-elegant white flower, pear, citrus, spice and wet stone nuances. There is outstanding volume and concentration to the attractively well-detailed and imposingly-scaled flavors that display borderline painful intensity on the driving and linear if very compact finish. Even by the usual outsized standards of Montrachet this is a big though not massive example. (Drink starting 2022)

This was actually drinking like a 99 point WB right now!
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Saber fish, deep fried with shiso. Popcorn like fry.
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Goldeneye snapper cheek. Awesome sweet broth.
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Otoro. Sublime.
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Sardine roll.
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Surf clam from Hokaido.
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Chawanmushi (Japanese savory egg custard) with surf clam skirt and monkfish liver. Super rich and unctuous.
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Sea bream Salt and yuzu.
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Santa Barbara spot prawn cured with kelp. Cured for 4-6 hours. Really incredible.
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Sea perch. Super savory Tiny bit smoked.
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Shrimp miso soup.
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Uni, wasabi, and ikura (salmon roe). Classic combo that was scrumptuous.
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Toro Sardine. A bit of shiso. Awesome.
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Scallop smashed habdroll. No rice.
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Jeffrey’s negi tori handroll Nori from Kyushu.
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Barracuda. Wonderful char.
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Santa barbara uni. Spectacular.
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Braided Kohada.
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Tamago. Very sweet and nice.
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Erick’s repeat sardine.
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Sweet effervescent Yuzu juice. He used to do this at Tsujita too.
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OMG!
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This was one incredible lineup of sushi and wine. Wow!

This was totally my style of omakase. It was mostly nigri, with each piece being both distinct and and memorable, almost sublime. The subtle curing, the deft but restrained use of “toppings”, and the assertive rice are all out of this world. It’s expensive. It’s a bit high maintenance. It’s for purists. But it is incredible!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Totally Totoraku
  2. Totally Toscana
  3. Kaneyoshi Take 2
  4. Shunji Sushi – Nonstop Nigiri
  5. Katana – Stripping it all Down
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: coche, DTLA, Foodie Club, Hide Takeda, Japanese cuisine, Little Tokyo, Michelin 1 Star, Sushi

Haunting Hansei

Jul11

Restaurant: Hansei

Location: 244 San Pedro St, Los Angeles, CA 90012

Date: December 1, 2022

Cuisine: Japanese

Rating: Serene

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Hansei is Chris Ono’s debut concept presented by the historic Japanese American Cultural & Community Center (JACCC). Hansei, meaning self-reflection, Ono explores his roots as a fourth generation Japanese American to champion the cuisine and culture of Los Angeles’ Nikkei community. At Hansei, Ono brings years of kitchen experience from Michelin starred restaurants across the globe with each dish constructed on a Japanese philosophy adding a personal and contemporary touch that reflects growing up in Los Angeles. A beverage program centers around premium sake with wines from California-based Japanese American winemakers, and locally-crafted beer. Hansei’s three-part dining experience transitions courses throughout the center’s breathtaking new Toshizo Watanabe Culinary Center and historic James Irvine Japanese Garden, a tranquil oasis hidden in the middle of Little Tokyo.

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You enter through the tranquil Japanese garden downtown at the Japanese American Cultural & Community Center.
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Finally, arriving here:
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First we began in this lounge area.
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The sake menu.
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We all brought Champagne.
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Mushroom dashi with a bit of yuzu. Warm and very pleasant on this cold evening.
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Oysters with ponzu jelly. Tasty.

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A selection of squashes. Not really my thing as I don’t like squash.
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Foie gras balls. Really tasty lumps of foie with some crunchy coating.
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Then we moved into the sushi bar area.
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Totally coincidentally we ran into Kirk and Edith!
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A modern California Role. Crispy nori with crab, cucumber, and uni. I put the lemon on top right away and this overpowered the very lovely mix.
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Buri sashimi with ponzu and grated daikon. Fish was great. Didn’t absolutely love the daikon.
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The main course spread.
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A bracing herb salad. Pretty nice.
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Teriyaki beef with cabbage with miso. The meat was fine and the sauce a bit sweet but yummy, but the real winner was the cabbage. Awesome baked or roasted cabbage-crunch.
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Rice. I love good Japanese rice, but I didn’t really like this one. And it was totally cold.
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Pickles and radish. The radish was raw and unaltered and quite nice. The cucumbers were great.
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Coconut Pana Cotta with Passionfruit. Not very sweet. Lovely though with a very dense coconut cream with tangy passionfruit.
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Apple Cobbler. Pretty sweet. I just had a little because of the sugar.
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Green tea crisps. Not my thing.
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Green Tea. Very nice.
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With the chef

Hansei was a unique and enjoyable experience. The food was quite good, but subtle. It wasn’t huge. If it was the old days (before my diet) Erick and I would have gone for second dinner, but I restrained myself. The whole garden thing was very interesting.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. The Valley’s Secret Sushi|Bar
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Champagne, Chris Ono, DTLA, Foodie Club, garden, Hansei, Japanese cuisine

Lunch Quest – Tsujita Annex

May01

Restaurant: Tsujita LA Artisan Noodle Annex

Location: 2050 Sawtelle Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025. (310) 231-0222

Date: September 19, 2022

Cuisine: Japanese Ramen

Rating: Oh so good

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The morning after our Haige Star bonanza Jeffrey and I (with Hangry Rider joining us as a bonus) set out on a new Lunch Quest.
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We were supposed to try this — supposedly — awesome fried chicken place tucked into the weird Colony in Santa Monica. It was closed for some reason (this happens a lot with Lunch Quest) and so we moved on after a bit of discussion.
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The concept for this Colony place is that it’s a commercial kitchen that shares various facilities including a common sales counter. Basically the places here are takeout food. You can pick it up at the counter and eat in the adjacent alley. This isn’t my kind of thing as I hate disposable plates and utensils and really casual dining in general. I don’t mind an utter lake of decor, but I don’t like takeout.

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The dining area doesn’t look half bad if you can stomach take out.
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So after much debate we moved on to Tsujita Annex for some really excellent Ramen. I’ve been here before of course.
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Jeffrey wanted to test out (and video about) this ghost pepper powder his friend Mark Wiens is promoting.
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Dry ramen (no soup).
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Two variants of their classic ramen.
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Another different dry ramen.
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The noodles and meat for their Tsukemen, which is when the noodles are served cold and on the side, and you dip them.
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The broth for the Tsukemen — so thick!
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Condiments.

I always forget how delicious Tsujita is. The annex version is a bit different than the main branch. It’s thicker and maybe more chunky, with a slightly more acidic balance to the broth (post tare). Both are awesome bowls of ramen. I think I still like the Tsukemen at regular Tsujita across the street a touch better but the classic ramen may be better here. And of course Killer Noodle is really my favorite of the trio.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Tsujita LA – Artisan Noodles
  2. Lunch Quest – Dai Ho
  3. Lunch Quest – Lotus
  4. Lunch Quest — Xiang La Hui
  5. Lunch Quest – Happy Valley Village
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Japanese cuisine, Lunch Quest, ramen, Sawtelle, Tsujita Annex

OOToro Double

Mar21

Restaurant: OOToro [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9]

Location: 1569 Fairway Dr, Walnut, CA 91789. (909) 598-8299

Date: August 13, 2022

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi (with slight nod to China)

Rating: Ends of the earth, but very good

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Chef Kaz of Totoraku, an occasional hedonist, sent us far east to this Sushi restaurant in 2016 and it was such a fun time that we had to return again for a sixth visit — it’s now become a twice a year thing. This is my second return since the pandemic — although some in the group went once in the middle for a meal that was supposedly not quite up to snuff. Because a bunch of us have engaged in a special Sushi Series this fall (tasting all the best LA sushi places) I figured I’d include OOToro in the mix.

 And by far east I mean REALLY REALLY far east — to Walnut California. 40+ miles from my house. 20 miles past Alhambra (which most people consider to far to drive for food). It took an hour and twenty minutes on a Saturday night!

The slick looking location is in the heart of the affluent Chinese American San Gabriel Valley. But yes, it’s Japan, if perhaps catering to Chinese taste. This photo was shot at about 10pm after everyone else had left.

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Here is the private room — the only way to go.

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Edamame.
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Mango, Avocado, Hairy crab, Some kind of Jelly (ponzu?). This was a new dish, and quite refreshing. Many in the party loved it. I thought the mango and crab bit was a touch too sweet, but was pretty good.
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On the right Octopus with Caviar and Yuzu. On the left Scallop with Uni. The yuzu part was great. This was a lovely dish, although they don’t use the best quality caviar here and there is an overreliance on uni.
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White fish tempura. The name sounded like “pea soup.” The tempura was dusted with wasabi salt which is traditional. Nice, but slightly dull tempura.
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Abalone, jellyfish, shrimp tempura (wrapped in potato), sea snail and “katsuloco” (the yellow sponge). The abalone was great for that creature. The jellyfish was a bit bland. The shrimp great, the snail nice, and the sponge a fishy spongey texture I really enjoyed.
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Sashimi of toro, ikura, uni, and a white fish. A bit of rice was hidden underneath. This was a lovely (and rich) dish.
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Oysters 3 ways: with black tobiko, ikura, and uni.
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Wagyu toast with caviar and balsamic. This used a “truffle oil caviar” that was kind of gross. Otherwise it would have been a nice dish but the truffle oil only detracted.
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The stain!
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Kumadai and another snapper with yuzu and wasabi. Lovely bright fish.
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Kama-toro. The ultra rich tuna collar. Always an awesome bite.
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Seared Ruby Snapper. Very sauced and lovely.
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Crab, Red Snapper, Truffle Oil Caviar and Yuzu miso sauce. The dish was nice except for that truffle oil in the caviar which was a minor negative. It basically should never be used.
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Kimchi uni noodles. Great. Kinda spicy.
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Ron’s “non spicy” creamy version.
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A5 Wagyu. Simple but delicious.
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Clam miso. Lovely.
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Green Tea Cheesecake. Very straightforward, basically just cheesecake with matcha powder in it.
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I jazzed ours up with my own private stock of Valrhona 70% and house-made Hazelnut Brittle.
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The room.
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This group of “kids” (20s) were celebrating a birthday and we toasted them with some extra Krug.
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Wines for tonight:
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Overall, OOToro — while always good — showed again that the private room is really the way to go. This was a great meal and much more subtle and sophisticated than some of the front room fare. Really great stuff — although we should have gotten the largest omakase for max variety. Tonight I felt was the weakest OOToro in a while — although it was still very good — but somehow there were a few dishes that I didn’t love. Maybe it was the truffle caviar. Maybe it was the fact that I had a massive Longo Dim Sum Lunch only a few hours before.

For more LA dining reviews click here,

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

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Also, after dinner, instead of the surprisingly fun Courtyard Marriott view parking lot, we ended up at this terrible picnic table at some even cheaper dive hotel Ron was staying at. Kinda dingy and depressing. Never again.

Related posts:

  1. Why Walnut? — OOToro
  2. OOToro Holiday
  3. OOToro Five O
  4. Cheeks & Things – OOToro
  5. O OOToro
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Champagne, hedonists, Japanese cuisine, Omakase, ootoro, SGV, Sushi, Wine

Summer Miyagi

Dec21

Restaurant: Sushi Miyagi [ 1, 2, 3 ]

Location: 150 S Barrington Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90049. (323) 382-5635

Date: June 2022

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi

Rating: Top Shelf Omakase Sushi

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Great sushi is always a good excuse to pull out the beloved Champagnes and White Burgundies.
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The unassuming storefront on the largely ignored side street that is S Barrington Ave.
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The space is small but attractive (these are pre covid pics).
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This is chef focused serious sushi, and so we pre-ordered the largest omakase possible — Erick even egged them on to a larger than offered menu. This picture is also pre-covid, post there is a plexiglass barrier across the bar and no bar seating.

Chef Shinichi Miyagi says about himself on his website:

Born in Osaka, the art of sushi mesmerized the chef at an early age and decided to devote his life as a “Decchi” (apprentice) under Master Higuchi at the age of 16. He opened his first “Kappo” (traditional style of cooking in front of a crowd) restaurant at the age of 25, and moved to LA at 29, working in numerous well known Sushi restaurants in West LA, Beverly Hills, and San Diego.

Through managing a Sushi restaurant in Manhattan Beach (i-naba), now in present day, he found an opportunity to try his skills as an executive chef in Brentwood/Los Angeles. The chefs many years of experience in choosing the freshest fish, will surprise even the most sophisticated pallets of this beautiful city.

His methods and techniques in preparation follows the traditional Japanese style, bringing out the true flavors of the fish. The chef also prepares two styles of rice, AKAZU SHARI (Red vinegar sushi rice), and SHIROZU SHARI (White vinegar rice). The SHARI (Sushi rice) will alternate depending on the fish being prepared, and we hope you enjoy the eclectic flavors of the different vinegars being used.

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2008 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut. VM 98+. Taittinger’s 2008 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is simply breathtaking. I have tasted it many times over the years in various trial disgorgements and it has never been anything less than compelling. The final, finished wine captures all of that potential. Bright, focused and wonderfully deep, Comtes is a fabulous example of a vintage that expresses so much energy but with real fruit intensity, the signatures that distinguish it from other vintages (1996 comes to mind) that were similarly taut, but more austere in the early going. Although the 2008 impresses right out of the gate, it only really starts to open up with several hours of air. The 2008 Comtes represents the purest essence of the Côtes des Blancs in a great, historic vintage. Readers who can find the 2008 should not hesitate, as it is a truly brilliant epic Champagne that no one who loves the very best in Champagne will want to be without. (Drink between 2023-2048)
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Amuses. Oyster with caviar. Monkfish Liver with ponzu jelly. Deep fried River Crab. Steamed Conch in the back. The monkfish liver was particularly good for its type, super tender and not a hint of bitterness.
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Sashimi. Japanese Bonito with ginger on top. Japanese Halibut. Toro from Spain.
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Japanese hairy crab. Both some meat and a bit of leg. Very sweet and tender.
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Octopus egg in soy sauce with wasabi. I’m not sure I’ve ever had this. It was a texture a bit like a chewy rice, quite delicious.
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2007 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes. VM 91+. Deep aromas of pear, white flowers and clove. Sweet and lush but with ripe harmonious acidity keeping the flavors under wraps today. Best now on the long, vibrant finish, which offers a lovely combination of ripeness and energy. But distinctly firm-edged at present. Colin told me he thought that pHs levels in his 2007s were in the range of 3.2 but noted that he doesn’t pay attention to technical parameters as much as to the taste of the wine.
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Japanese red snapper.
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Hokkaido Scallop.
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Triggerfish with fresh liver from the same fish. Never had this particular variant. Lovely.
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Striped Jack from Japan.
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Oregon Giant Clam.
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Amberjack that was 10 days aged topped with Yuzu koshu.
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Japanese Sweet Shrimp.
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Norwegian Salmon.
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2007 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes. BH 94. This is more expressive and a bit riper with ultra pure aromas of peach, apricot, pear and spiced white peach leading to ripe, concentrated and superbly precise flavors that display plenty of mid-palate fat and ample minerality that this part of Charmes always seems to impart to the wines and overall, this is a stunningly harmonious wine of finesse. (Drink starting 2017)
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Bluefin Tuna that was 19 day aged.
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Almost O-toro.
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Spanish Mackerel from Japan.
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Japanese Baby Barracuda.
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Black throat from Nigata prefecture.
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Goldeneye Snapper with Summer Truffle.
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Hokkaido Uni.
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Japanese Beef nigiri.
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2007 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos. VM 96+. Bright yellow. Subtly complex nose melds Asian pear, violet, lavender, ginger, iodine and powdered stone. Tactile and dense on entry, then creamy in the middle, conveying an impression of great volume without weight. This extremely backward, youthfully understated Clos firms up dramatically on the back end, finishing with palate-saturating citrus and talc flavors that refuse to fade. One of the longest Chablis bottlings I tasted for this issue, this truly transcends chardonnay.
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Chawanmushi with Uni, Mushroom, and Tofu. Very soft.
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Crab Hand-roll.
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Anago Eel.
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Kohada.
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2005 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut. VM 93. Taittinger’s 2005 Comtes de Champagne was a perfect way to commence proceedings. Orchard fruit and hints of brioche on the seductive nose are joined by a hint of lemon verbena filtering through with time. The palate is beautifully balanced, perhaps not as riveting as a recently tasted 2008, yet underpinned by a fine bead of acidity and exuding harmony on the apricot-tinged finish. This is drinking perfectly now but should give 15-20 years of drinking pleasure. (Drink between 2022-2042)
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Vanilla and Truffle ice cream. Not actually that big a fan of truffle in my ice cream.
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Cherry Gelato – a blend of Morello Cherry and intense Amarena Cherry fruit make this dairy gelato really pop — topped with Candied Amarena Cherries — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #amarena #morello #cherry
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Matcha Almond Latte Gelato – Ceremonial Matcha Green Tea and Sicilian Noto Romano Almond gelato base — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #almond #matcha #GreenTea #Sicily
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Sushi Miyagi is exactly the kind of sushi place I like best — all omakase and very traditional. This is some seriously good fish. Mostly just straight nigiri and a bit of spectacular sashimi and a handful of cooked dishes. This is really really good and instantly catapulted into the top westside sushi joints. Very friendly too. Intimate as well. Sushi at this level is all about the chef and Shinichi Miyagi is very talented.

Not for the sushi neophytes and roll loves, but fabulous for those of us who really enjoy great fish being showcased in a straightforward and delicious manner.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Mr. Miyagi’s Sushi Bar
  2. Sushi Miyagi Apres
  3. Yamakase Summer
  4. Brothers Sushi Two
  5. Summer at 71Above
By: agavin
Comments (3)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Champage, Gelato, Japanese cuisine, Miyagi, Sashimi, Sushi, White Burgundy, Wine

N/Soto Goodness

Dec15

Restaurant: N/Soto

Location: 4566 W Washington Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016. (323) 879-9455

Date: June 2 & 11, 2022

Cuisine: Japanese Izakaya

Rating: Elevated Izakaya

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The N/Naka group — the original being one of LA’s top Japanese restaurants — has recently opened a more casual Izakaya (Japanese bar food) place. One of my former cooks (and friend) even works there!
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Classic Japanese frontage.
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Unless you look out on the street 🙂 in which case it’s classic LA frontage.

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Nice modern (polished concrete) interior.
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The menu.

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Fizzy non alcoholic fermented drink.
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2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. VM 99. The 2008 Cristal is one of the most complete, most dazzling Champagnes I have ever tasted. A stunning wine from any and all perspectives, the 2008 simply has it all. Spherical in construction, with superb persistence. The 2008 takes hold of all the senses and never gives up. One of the many things that makes the 2008 special is a combination of ripe fruit and bright, piercing acidity. Marzipan, lemon confit, dried flowers and orchard fruit all build into the explosive, resonant finish. “We learned from the mistakes of 1996, when we picked more on acid than ripeness, as was the norm in Champagne back then” Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon told me recently. “In 1996, the best fruit turned out to be the last picks, where the fruit was physiologically ripe. Today, we aim to pick all our fruit with that criteria.” (Drink between 2020-2050)
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From my cellar: 2007 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Vireuils. VM 88. Slightly reduced aromas of soft citrus fruits and toasted bread. Ripe, round and nicely balanced; classically dry but not austere, with a flavor of orange dominating the palate. Not yet complex but offers lovely texture. Roulot bottled his 2007s between January and March of 2009, after storing them in cuves for five or six months. Incidentally his Bourgogne blanc, bottled in March, offers lovely floral lift and bright acid cut, and reminded me of a baby Meursault.
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2011 Domaine Thenard Montrachet. BH 91-94. Here too there is visible but not intrusive wood that sets off a very closed nose, indeed this is almost mute. There is excellent volume and power to the big-bodied, intense and equally closed flavors that possess plenty of underlying tension on the tight, focused and beautifully long finish. This moderately concentrated effort is very much a work in progress. (Drink starting 2019)
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Warm House Made Tofu. ginger, tosa joyu. Soy sauce on the side. Hiding in the soy milk it was made of this was soft and delicious tofu with a bit of bite from the wasabi.1A4A7497
Mentai Mochi. nori, mentaiko. Really delicious. High acid marinate on the onions and seaweed was really good.

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Cucumber & Wakame. tosazu, ginger. Jelly version of the classic sunomono.
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Carrot & Fennel Tartare. pickled fennel, chickpea miso, chips. Dips were good.
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Ankimo. Sumiso, seaweed, ponzu. Really delicious. High acid marinate on the onions and seaweed was really good.
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Brussels Sprouts & Salmon Skin. red onion, poached egg. Nice warm salad with good crunch.
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Sashimi Moriawase. chef’s selection. Uni, scallop, toro, and others.

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Sashimi Moriawase. chef’s selection.
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Blue Crab Handroll.
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Toro Takuan Handroll.
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Shigoku oyseters. Tosazu jello, ginger. Nice bright oyster.
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Shigoku oysters with uni. Tosazu jello, ginger. Nice bright oyster.
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Beef Tataki. seared zabuton, crispy garlic, ponzu. Perhaps a touch overseared.
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Sakamushi clams. Shiitake, dashi. Absolutely delicious garlicky broth.
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Maitake Tempura. green tea salt. Very tasty.

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Softshell Crab Tempura.
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Steamed Seabass. shiitake, kombu, egg. Very soft and pleasant.
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From my cellar: 2008 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru. VM 94. The 2008 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (from young vines in Musigny) is a powerful, inward wine. There is lovely depth to the fruit, but the wine remains tightly coiled at this stage, even if occasional glimmers of richness emerge over time. Cloves, cinnamon and a host of other spiced notes add complexity on the finish. This is another superb, textured wine from de Vogüé. (Drink between 2018-2028)
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2002 Nicolas Potel Grands-Echezeaux. VM 92-94. Red-ruby color. Penetrating, pure, highly complex aromas of raspberry, minerals, flowers and pungent spices. Wonderfully urgent and intense, with the mineral and pungent spice elements carrying through on the palate and giving the wine superb lift. Tightly wound but already showy. Finishes very long and nuanced, with fine, ripe tannins. From a selection massale planted in 1957. Very impressive.

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From my cellar: 1978 Camille Giroud Beaune 1er Cru Grèves. Awesome.
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Chicken and scallion and prime beef shoulder skewers (on the right).1A4A7874
Chicken Thigh with scallion.

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Lamb chop.
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Jidori Tebasaki. Jidori chicken wing. Nice and crispy.

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Kurobuta Sausage. Awesome!
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Unagi.
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Bacon Tomato. A little sour.
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Beef Tongue. butter lettuce, pickled red onion. Totally awesome, probably in no small park because of the pickled onions.
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Miso Baked Bone Marrow. umeboshi onigiri. Rice was really crispy and nice.
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Motsunabe. Tripe, daikon, cabbage. WIthout the funk this dish often has this was amazing.
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Trout and Ikura Donabe. This salty and slightly fishy rice was an awesome finish.
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The rice plated.
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Pickles, sesame seeds, and nori for the rice.
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Coffee Budino with jelly.

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Yuzu Boysenberry ice cream from Ginger in Culver City.
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Okinawa Yam Pudding, which has mochi (the balls), kokuto (Okinawa brown sugar), and adzuki beans. It’s topped with kokuto sauce that’s made in house and poured tableside. Very sweet!

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Melon Float. Vanilla ice cream with homemade melon soda (like Jidori but fancier). The melon soda was poured in tableside.
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Mango Sorbet.

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N/Soto is a very solid addition to the extensive LA Japanese food scene. It fills a niche (more or less) vacated by MTN, a place I miss a lot. It’s not quite as approachable to Izakaya newbies as that, but definitely upscale and a little more Caucasian friendly than more classic Izakaya like Hero or Takuma. And it’s WAY WAY better than the rash of more consumer friendly “sushi + robotoyaki” type pseudo izakaya like Kappo Miyabi. Those places can be ok, but the food is really uneven. N/Soto on the other hand is quite casual, not too expensive, and has very good execution for a fairly wide array of Japanese “drink friendly” dishes.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Molten Lava Goodness
  2. Hakata Izakaya Hero
  3. Japanese in China – Izakaya Akatora
  4. Matsumoto Maxsumoto
  5. Awesome Asuka
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Izakaya, Japanese cuisine, N Soto, Robatayaki, Sashimi, Wine

Kappo Miyabi

Oct03

Restaurant: Kappo Miyabi

Location: 702 Arizona Ave Suite BB, Santa Monica, CA 90401. (310) 260-0085

Date: February 18, 2022

Cuisine: Japanese Izakaya

Rating: Too much of too many good things

_

Jeffrey talked this place up, but he tends to “over like” Japanese restaurants in walking distance of his house and work, like the middling Soko. Kappo Miyabi, formerly known as Kappo Onsen, is technically an Izakaya I guess, but it has a very wide range of Japanese food including Izakaya, sushi, skewers, rice pots, hot plates, udon, etc.

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The vast — too vast — menu.
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Edamame.
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Seaweed Salad.
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Sunomono. Not enough “marinate.”
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Agedashi Tofu. I like agedashi tofu in general, but this one was a bit doughy.
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Potato Salad.
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Miso Glazed Eggplant.
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Charcoal Mentaiko. Grilled fish roe. Interesting.
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Wagyu Gyoza. Hard to tell it’s wagyu.
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Salmon and Tamago Sushi. The sushi here is the slightly large middling sushi a lot of middling places have.
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Scallops with Uni. This didn’t quite pair.
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Marinated Snapper Carpaccio.
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Popcorn Shrimp Tempura. Can’t go too wrong with this.
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This came as a set.
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Miso Black Cod.
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Salad.
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Potato Salad.
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Skewers.
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Chicken Wings and Chicken Meatballs.
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Bacon Wrapped Shrimp, Pork Belly, and Chicken Tails.
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Plain Udon.
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BBQ Eel Bowl. Not bad.

Everything at Kappo Miyabi is just “kinda decent.” They have way too many different kinds of food and way too white a clientele to be really good. It’s not truly any particular type of Japanese Cuisine. It’s not a sushi bar, nor a yaki tori place, nor exactly an Izakaya — but it sort of tries to be all of them.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Hakata Izakaya Hero
  2. Squid Guts are Yummy
  3. Robata Bar
  4. Wadatsumi – Where Dat Beef
  5. MTN – Upscale Izakaya
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Izakaya, Japanese cuisine, Kappo Miyabi

Asanebo Evening

Sep28

Restaurant: Asanebo [1, 2]

Location: 11941 Ventura Blvd, Studio City, CA 91604. (818) 760-3348

Date: January 27, 2022

Cuisine: Japanese

Rating: Very good creative Japanese

_

Asanebo has been a high end valley classic spot for a long time, so long that the last time I was here was before I started taking pictures of all my food (which was 2010).

Chef Tetsuya Nakao came to America in 1982. Him and his younger brother, Shunji, were the original chefs that helped start Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills. After establishing the restaurant as one of the best in Los Angeles, the Nakao brothers ventured out to start their own place. “Asanebo” opened in September 26, 1991. Over the years, “Asanebo” was recognized as one of the top Japanese restaurants from Zagat, LA Times, LA Weekly, and more.

“Asanebo” also accomplished one Michelin Stars in 2008 and the other in 2009. It is part of chef Tetsuya’s standards to provide the best quality fish, meat, vegetables, and other ingredients possible to his customers. Not only is the food so great, but it is his warm character that brings in new customers from all over the world.

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Unknown
Because of the pandemic they have this nice outside tend/patio in the parking lot.
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The menu is big with a mix of traditional and that style of late 1990s and 00s LA Japanese that is heavily Matsuhisa influenced but not focused on the style over substance greatest hits (Katana and Sushi Roku I’m looking at you). It’s much closer in both period and style to Takao.

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2000 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Millésimé. JG 94. The 2000 Charles Heidsieck Brut Millésime is comprised of a blend of sixty percent pinot noir and forty percent chardonnay and spent more than ten years on the lees in the les Crayères cellars here prior to disgorgement and release. I had the good fortune to taste this beautiful vintage twice in preparation for this report, and it continues to deepen and add more complexity with the passing of time. The deep and very refined nose offers up a classy mélange of apple, pain grillé, peach, a marvelously complex signature of salty soil tones, orange zest and a dollop of summer truffle in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and shows off lovely tertiary layers of complexity, with a rock solid core, great focus and breed, refined mousse and a very long, pure and perfectly balanced finish. Stellar juice. (Drink between 2014-2030)
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2004 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. VM 97. The 2004 Cristal is superb today. Bright and focused, the 2004 shows all of the tension and energy that has always been one of its signatures. The first hints of aromatic maturity are starting to develop, but the 2004 remains quite young and full of energy. I have always admired the 2004 (along with the best wines of the vintage) for its focus. In this bottle, the interplay of freshness from the recent 2018 disgorgement and richness gained through added time on the lees (which also results in lower dosage of 7 grams per liter) opens another window into the personality of Cristal. In 2004, the Pinot Noir is 57%, or a bit lower than normal, while the Chardonnay at 43% is correspondingly a touch higher. (Drink between 2019-2039)
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2008 Claude Cazals Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs extra Brut Cuvée Vive.
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Exquise Sec. JG 94. I had never had the pleasure to taste this limited release bottling of Demi-Sec from Anselme Selosse, which he crafts with an eye to matching with dessert and which it paired beautifully with at the end of a vertical Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche dinner that I will be reporting on in the next issue. Monsieur Selosse only makes a thousand bottles of Exquise, with this particular iteration disgorged in May of 2015 and finished off with a dosage of around twenty-four grams per liter. This is the same base wine as his Brut Initial cuvée, which hails from the lower sections of the slope of his top vineyards in Avize, Oger and Cramant, and simply finished off with a more generous dosage. The current release of Exquise is really lovely, offering up a complex nose of pear, patissière, chalky minerality, custard and a pungent topnote of spring flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and beautifully balanced, with and excellent spine of acidity to carry the additional sweetness, fine focus, refined mousse and a very long, crisp and moderately sweet finish. Just a lovely wine. (Drink between 2016-2030)
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Chawanmushi. Santa Barbara uni. Wasabi. Ikura. Strong Dashi flavor. Lovely.
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Baby Spinach Salad. Seared scallop, fried potato. Quite nice and fresh.
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Seafood stick with homemade sweet salsa. Really great dish.
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Dave and Annie enjoy their sticks.
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2009 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne. VM 96. High-pitched aromas of fresh peach, crushed stone, violet and lavender. Dense, sweet and rich, with very ripe pineapple fruit leavened by smoky minerality and given cut and focus by strong (4.5 g/l) acidity. Offers an uncanny combination of depth and high pitch for the vintage. The building, extremely long finish titillates the taste buds and leaves the mouth vibrating. Normally harvested on the late side, these vines were picked on September 5(!) in 2009, with potential alcohol of 12.9%.
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From my cellar: 2012 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Baronne. PN 94 points. Showing very well, clean, mineral, straw basket, fine, articulated but not austere, nicely integrated, nice pear, apple, apple skin notes, long. In a great place right now and will hold 5-8 years.Asanebo w/Yarom and gang.
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Amberjack. Sesame miso. Pink salt. Serrano. The fish was lovely, but the sesame paste clashes a bit.
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Halibut. Italian Truffle. Sweet ponzu. Pickled cherry tomato. A bit too sweet and distracting.
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Japanese wild yellowtail. Hawaiian lava salt. Spicy ponzu.
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Grilled conch soup. Mushroom. Broth was great.
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2012 Colgin Syrah IX Estate. PN 92. Big, bold, tons of blackberry and blueberry and some meatiness; a good dose of fine expensive oak in there, really nice with the A5 wagyu with onion and a sweet soy sauce sauce; silky, big, bold, and eventually pretty oaky. Turned more oaky as the night went on. I imagine if they halved the oak on these monsters they would have something pretty special. Asanebo w/Yarom and gang. Not exactly Japanese food friendly.

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A5 wagyu with heirloom tomato. Very sweet classic Japanese flavor. Did pair nicely with the Colgin.
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Small flight of sushi. Blue Fin, Chu-Toro, Snapper and another white fish.
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Uni. Toro Takuan Roll (awesome) and crab hand roll.
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Freshwater eel.

Asanebo has been around since 1991 and as he was an early chef at Matsuhisa (along with his brother Shunji) the food very much reflects that. Like Takao (also at Matsuhisa) it’s positioned somewhere between a classic broad menu 1980s style sushi place and the more Peruvian influence Nobu style. But it’s definitely got strong California influences from the 1990s in a way I never saw in Japan during that period. While the style here is a bit 1990s (unlike Shunji who has massively “updated” recently) the execution remains excellent. I myself do slightly prefer either the very updated traditional or modern styles at the top end right now but there is no question that Asanebo is a great place and thoroughly enjoyable. It’s also not as expensive as the painfully bleeding edge places at current like Kaneyoshi.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. An Evening at Malibu Wines
  2. Last Minute Shunji
  3. Why Walnut? — OOToro
  4. Food as Art – Shiki Sushi
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Asanebo, hedonists, Japanese cuisine, SFV, Sushi, Sushi Series

Hakata Izakaya Hero

Aug01

Restaurant: Hakata Izakaya HERO

Location: 1929 Westwood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025. (424) 832-3304

Date: November 19, 2021 & July 26, 2022

Cuisine: Japanese Izakaya

Rating: Very good Izakaya

_

At this quick little dinner right before Thanksgiving Paul and I hit up the relatively new Hakata Izakaya HERO on Westwood Blvd.
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The inside is small.
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But we sat outside on the patio. I love patios.
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The varied little menu of Japanese comfort foods.
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Paul brought: 2019 Xavier Monnot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes. VM 90-92. The 2019 Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru has a relatively understated and delicate bouquet, discreet compared to other Les Charmes this vintage. The palate is well balanced with just a little reduction at the moment. Good weight in the mouth, a tang of marmalade toward the finish and a little viscosity. Give this 2–3 years in bottle. (Drink between 2023-2035)
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2017 Buisson-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Bouches-Chères. 93 points. Very good. very good balance. Minerals, fruit, medium to long finish.

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Garlic Shisito Peppers. Nice.
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Today’s Assorted Sashimi Special (for 2). A variety of nice fresh fish.
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Marinated Sardine Sashimi. Very nice.
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Cucumber with “death miso” — it was pretty spicy. Cucumber had a nice crunch.
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Spicy Cold Tofu. Good, but the spicy miso had a fairly hefty kick and kept making me cough.

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Spicy Agedashi Tofu. I love agedashi tofu (fried basically). This was good as usual.
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Crispy Fried Chicken Gyoza. Classic little dumplings. Nice mix of soft and crispy.

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Uni special. Just uni with shisto leaf.
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Oysters.
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Oyster sauce (basically a ponzu).
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Shirako (cod sperm sacks). Really delicious!

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Shrimp Tempura with Mayo. Sort of Japanese “Walnut Shrimp” — kinda awesome.
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From my cellar: 2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots. VM 93+. Bright, deep red. Pungent, sexy aromas of strawberry, raspberry, cocoa powder and incense. Wonderfully fresh and gripping wine whose sheer sappiness and extract suggest a long and graceful evolution in bottle. But this beauty is also impossibly sexy today. Finishes vibrant and very long, with palate-dusting fruits, minerals and spices.

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From my cellar: 2009 Domaine René Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques. 91 points. Definitely Gevrey nose. Dark and red fruit, with slightly rusticity. Medium+ body. Long finish. Very good.
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Jidori Chicken Karaage. Hard to go wrong with crispy fried chicken!
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Pork Belly Wrapped Skewers. Lettuce, Tomato, Chinese Chive, Cilantro, Scallion.
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Short Rib Kalbi Platter. Super tender and juicy beef with a sweet dashi sauce. Delicious.

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Prime Outside Skirt Steak Harimi platter. Sizzling and very tender. Really nice.
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Dippings sauces.
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Lemon Ramen. I’ve never had this and it was pretty much as described: a light shiro dashi style ramen with lemon. Kind of refreshing and delicious.

Overall, Hero was a nice little place with good food and a fun casual (lots of UCLA students) atmosphere. I’m glad there are more Izakaya’s opening up around town. It’s a great varied little cuisine and used to be quite rare (in the states).

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Japanese in China – Izakaya Akatora
  2. MTN – Upscale Izakaya
  3. Hurry Curry
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Hakata Izakaya HERO, Izakaya Hero, Japanese cuisine, Wine

N/Naka Again

Apr18

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: September 3, 2021

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

The Foodie Club returned to N/Naka in September (having been last in June).

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The busy street corner on National.
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Our table — before we got to it.

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Our menu for the night.
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1971 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. VM 97. This bottle of 1971 Dom Pérignon, the second that I have tasted, was an original disgorgement and slightly paler than the Cristal 1971 served alongside. It has a devastatingly gorgeous bouquet, intoxicating from the get-go: grilled walnuts, dried honey and even a hint of marmalade, all delivered with exceptional delineation. The palate is beautifully balanced with perfect acidity. There are subtle notes of citrus peel, mandarin, crushed stone and honeysuckle, though these are discrete. It is rather the tension and precision that elevates this magnificent Champagne. Tasted at Christies/Fine Wine Experience 1971 dinner. (Drink between 2021-2030)
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1990 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. BH 97. 1990 is one of my favorite vintages ever for this storied cuvée because while the vintage was on the riper side the high yields allowed the fruit to retain a very good level of acidity which made for balanced and ageworthy wines. While I have had the pleasure of tasting the ’90 on a number of occasions since its release, the last time was alongside the 1985 and the 1988, and as admirable as those two vintages are, the 1990 is head and shoulders above them to my taste. The fantastically complex nose is comprised of an abundance of yeast and toast characters that don’t completely dominate the essence of apple, pear, citrus, spice, acacia blossom and discreet orange peel scents. There is equally good depth to the delicious, full-bodied and powerful flavors that possess a lovely sense of vibrancy thanks to the still firm but fine mousse that shapes the delineated, delicious and impeccably well-balanced finale. In my view 1990 is one of the greatest vintages for this wine of the last 25 years and one that is still drinking well. While there is no additional upside development to be hand, neither is there any rush to drink up as this should continue to hold effortlessly for years to come. (Drink starting 2015)
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1998 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. BH 94. An elegant but austere wine that is almost as reticent as the ’96 with pure citrus and floral aromas that continue onto the crisp and still very tight medium-bodied flavors that are beautifully precise and impressively delineated on the gorgeously long finish. This is a long way from being ready and I wouldn’t touch a bottle for another 5 to 7 years.
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Sakizuke. Aji, Snap Pea, Bell Pepper Gelee.
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A welcome drink.
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Zensai. Nasui Yasai, Corn Tofu, Oyster Lime, Shishito White Fish Tempura, Unagi Avocado, Fig, Wagyu Nikogori.
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Nasui Yasai.
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Unagi Avocado.
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Corn Tofu.
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Shishito White Fish Tempura.
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Fig.
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Pickles.
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Shrimp with caviar.
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Modern Zukuri. Roasted Tomatillo, Chili Sauce, Hokkaido Scallop, Finger Lime, Chayote, Turnip, Kohlrabi, Lemon Verbena Oil
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Can’t remember, but it was good!
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2002 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé. VM 95. Light, bright orange-pink. Heady mineral- and yeast-accented aromas of dried red berries, blood orange, buttered toast and tea rose. Densely packed and expansive on the palate, offering intense raspberry, cherry compote and floral pastille flavors and a smoky overtone that gains strength with aeration. The mineral quality comes back strong on the silky, focused finish, which goes on and on. An outstanding blend of power and finesse. Disgorged September, 2012.

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2002 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. BH 96. There is a subtle phenolic character to the secondary-tinged yet super-fresh nose reflects notes of baked bread, yeast, pear, baked apple, spice and a hint of citrus. The bold and full-bodied flavors possess superb complexity while being underpinned by a notably fine but dense mousse, all wrapped in a gorgeously persistent finish. This full-bodied effort is seriously impressive and one that is aging effortlessly though for my taste, it could certainly be enjoyed now. (Drink starting 2020)

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Owan. Tai, Eggplant, Green Bean
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Sake we bought from them.
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Otsukuri. Traditional Sashimi.
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Yakimono. Ayu, Duck Liver, Smoked Cherry.
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Mushimono. Tomato, Lobster Shinjo, Tomato and Fennel Mochi.
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From my cellar: 2011 Etienne Sauzet Chevalier-Montrachet. BH 94. A pure and elegant if very restrained nose reluctantly offers up notes of white flower, lemon zest, wet stone and an herbal tea hint. There is an equally stony character to the beautifully detailed middle weight plus flavors that possess real verve and superb depth on the gorgeously textured and markedly firm finish. This does a slow build from the mid-palate to the explosive and palate staining finish. A Zen wine of considerable understatement that will require all of a decade to arrive at its full potential. (Drink starting 2021)
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2013 Etienne Sauzet Montrachet. BH 93-96. This is markedly more restrained with its reserved aromas of spice, white and yellow orchard fruit, acacia blossom and a broad array of citrus nuances. There is seriously impressive richness to the overtly powerful full-bodied flavors that possess an admirable plenitude of dry extract that completely drenches the palate on the driving and hugely long finish. As one might reasonably expect this is presently very, very backward and while this may be fully ready 12 years hence I would not be surprised if it required more like 15. Either way, this has terrific upside development potential. (Drink starting 2025)
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Shiizakana. Spaghetti, Abalone, Picked Cod Roe, Truffles. Awesome as always.
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Niku. A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Beef, Baby Corn.
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Sunomono. Nopales, Golden Kiwi, Cucumber, Aloe, Chia Seeds.
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Yuzu juice intermezzo.
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They brought us some giant bottle sake.
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Shokuji. Nigiri Sushi.
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And more sushi, including uni/ikura.
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Miso Soup.
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Blue crab Hand roll.
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Mizumono. Lychee Sorbet, Shiso Lime Granita

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Mizumono. Ginger Poached Plum, Lavender Ice Cream, Wasabi Mochi, Honey Crumb, Tuile
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Blood Peach and Ume Sorbetto, Chocolate Peanut Cream Gelato, and Caramel Fudge Marshmallow Gelato made by me for @sweetmilkgelato.
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Take home gift.
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Roasted green tea.
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Pretty chocolates.
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The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese. N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular. Plus we even did an amazing all foie gras meal here once. The place keeps getting better and better. This is thrice wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. At N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Coming back to N/Naka after the pandemic I thought they were really firing on all cylinders. This was the best meal I’ve had there since the incredible Foie meal. I think her sushi has gone from “okay” to “great” and with regard to other dishes she has toned down a bit of the “theatrics” slightly but really upped the flavor balance and intensity. There weren’t some of the more interactive dishes of years past, like cooking your own item on hot stones, but the cooking was even more on point.

Service is also spectacular, highlighted all the more by the extremely low understaffed standard currently found in LA.

Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

Related posts:

  1. N/Naka on the Nose
  2. November N/Naka
  3. N/Naka Reprise
  4. Knocked out by N/Naka
  5. Nothing like N/Naka
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Champagne, Foodie Club, Gelato, Japanese cuisine, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, Sushi, Wine

Go Go Gozen

Jan19

Restaurant: Gozen Sake Bistro

Location: 521 N La Cienega Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90048. (213) 308-9393

Date: July 30, 2021

Cuisine: Japanese Kaiseki

Rating: Very good, but not mind blowing

_

This dinner is arguably the second in (the first being here) in a vast series of epic Japanese sushi and/or Kaiseki dinners post lockdowns that all included myself, Erick, Joe and Bonnie — and often Larry, as is the case tonight. Herein we “endeavor” to visit or revisit most of the top sushi spots in LA.

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Gozen bistro.
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A cozy looking spot for being right on La Cienega.
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Fairly large and stylish interior.
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We had a private room with a cool dragon decor.
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The menu — lots of options.
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Larry brought: NV Krug Champagne Brut Rosé Edition 21eme. JG 95+. The Krug Brut Rosé “21ème Édition” is from the beautiful base year of 2008, with the oldest reserve wine in the blend going back to 2000. The wine was disgorged in the spring of 2015 and is a blend of fifty-one percent pinot noir, forty-one percent chardonnay and eight percent pinot meunier. Ten percent of the pinot noir in the blend is still red wine from Krug’s own parcels of vines in the village of Aÿ. The blend is a slight departure from many releases of Krug Rosé, as hail in the village of Ste. Ghemme in 2008 dramatically cut back the quality of pinot meunier from this vintage, so that Chef de Caves Eric Lebel opted to use all reserve wines for the pinot meunier portion of the blend. The very complex wine offers up the characteristically refined and gently exotic bouquet that this cuvée is cherished for, wafting from the glass in a blend of cherries, a touch of pomegranate, orange peel, beautiful, savory spice elements, rye bread, a complex base of soil tones , dried rose petals and incipient smokiness. On the palate the wine is full, complex and still quite youthful in terms of structure, with vibrant acids, a lovely core, elegant mousse and a very long, perfectly balanced and seamless finish. This is already beautifully complex, but I would love to revisit it five to ten years down the road and see what the passage of time does to this beautiful constellation of aromas and flavors. (Drink between 2018-2050)
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5 Good Things.
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Marinated fish and onions.
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Taco (octopus).
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Monkfish Liver with Caviar.
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Seaweed salad.
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Steamed sesame tofu with uni.
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Marinated tomato.
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Dashi-maki Tamago (Japanese egg omelet) with Mountain Vegetables.
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Salmon roe in a lemon.
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Young Peach with Wine Jelly. Sure looks pretty.
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2007 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet. VM 94+. Bright, pale yellow. Rich aromas of stone fruits, yellow currant, lees and iodine, plus a complicating whiff of rye bread. Dense and powerful but not at all heavy. Quite youthfully closed but aeration brings up captivating inner-mouth floral character and penetrating talc-y minerality. Wonderfully precise, classy Batard with uncommon complexity.
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2007 Domaine Ramonet Chevalier-Montrachet. BH 96. Given the almost extreme reticence of the Bâtard, I was moderately surprised to see how wonderfully expressive this positively brilliant wine is already. The nose is simply stunning with a supremely elegant and kaleidoscopic range of spice, floral, citrus, stone and pain grillé notes that is the perfect complement to the racy, detailed and equally complex middle weight flavors brimming with the underlying minerality advertised by the nose, all wrapped in a driving, delineated and explosive finish. As good as the Ramonet Chevalier is, in the 10 vintages that it has been made, I can’t think of one where it’s the equal of the Montrachet. However, 2007 just might be that vintage. (Drink starting 2015)
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From my cellar: 2008 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 94. Soft if not invisible wood sets off strikingly pretty and solidly complex honeysuckle, white peach and spiced pear aromas that give way to intense, delicious and equally complex middle weight flavors that possess ample concentration and outstanding balance and length on the palate staining finish. This is really classy juice and quite stylish as well. (Drink starting 2016)

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Sashimi “plate”.
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Chawanmushi Steamed Egg Custard with Japanese Sea Urchin.
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Softshell Crab Tempura.
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Three kinds of nigiri sushi. Toro on the left.
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Uni, Ikura, and rice.
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2001 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Richebourg. BH 94. While this has certainly matured since I first saw it from bottle in 2004, the original note still largely captures the wine with its deep, complex and spicy old vine aromas that are slightly floral in character. This brilliant introduction is followed by wonderfully harmonious and quite powerful middle weight flavors that are beautifully delineated and perfectly balanced while delivering superb length. In sum, this ultra-pure effort offers reference standard quality with more refinement than young Richebourg usually displays – plus it’s approaching readiness for prime time and could easily be enjoyed now though for my taste another 3 to 5 years would serve it well. Tasted twice in the last few months. (Drink starting 2015)
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A smoked dish.
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Roast Duck with Mashed Potatoes.

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Raspberry Granita.

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Red miso soup.
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The grilled meat dish.
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Yogan-Yaki A5 Japanese Kobe Beef.
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Condiments for the beef.
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Kamameshi (Japanese seasoned rice in a small pot) with Tuffles.
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We had several bowls each (I love good fried rice).

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Black sesame ice cream. Looks almost like a B&W photo!
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Matcha Tiramisu. Delicious.
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Our wines for the night.

Gozen was quite good. It’s tonally very Japanese and quite reserved. I probably prefer a slightly flashier style. Not all the way to Nobu style mind you, that’s too disconnected from the Japanese sense of balance, but maybe I like a touch more acidity and punch. And Gozen is expensive (as all top kaiseki and sushi places are). It does give you a lot of variety in flavors, ingredients, and style, but not very much actual nigiri (which I do love).

The wines were really singing too, particularly the Ramonets. Overall, a great evening.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or for epic Foodie Club meals, here.
Or for more Sushi Series dinners, click here.
1A4A1112

Related posts:

  1. Yasu a Year Yater
  2. Hard to Find – Inn Ann
  3. Burg at Kagura
  4. The Valley’s Secret Sushi|Bar
  5. Sumo Bowl Yamakase
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Champagne, Foodie Club, Gozen, Japanese cuisine, Sashimi, Sushi, Sushi Series, White Burgundy

Back to Takuma

Jan11

Click here for the full detailed post.

Blow Torched Mackerel

Related posts:

  1. Squid Guts are Yummy
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Izakaya, Japanese cuisine, Takuma

N/Naka on the Nose

Oct18

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: June 16, 2021

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

N/Naka served as the host location for the second of our 3 epic June “Fred” dinners, this one being themed around Coche-Dury Les Rougeots.

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The empty interior. This was actually the first night that N/Naka reopened after the long lockdown closure.

Our table — before we got to it.
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1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. BH 97. A distinctly reticent but elegant nose with a purity of expression that is truly impressive to experience as it’s relatively high-toned and while the yeast comes up with air, it’s relatively muted at presence, combining with intense, precise and superbly detailed and complex flavors that culminate in an explosive and wonderfully long finish. This may very well rival the sublime ’90 in time even if it’s not quite as concentrated. This is still a baby so there is absolutely no rush whatsoever.
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2015 Hubert Lamy Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Cuvée Haute Densité. A rare bird!
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2005 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. BH 94. A strikingly pure nose of white flower and spice aromas complements perfectly the delicious, intense and stony flavors that are wonderfully vibrant and gorgeously detailed on the transparent and equally pure finish that explodes with more minerality. This is beautifully balanced and understated with a Zen-like sense of calm. I very much like this and it’s very Perrières in character. In a word, brilliant. (Drink starting 2013)
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2007 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. VM 94+. Bright pale yellow. Soft citrus fruits and crushed rock on the musky, slightly reduced nose. Rich, perfumed and tightly coiled, with a terrific core of acidity intensifying the orange, floral and mineral flavors. Offers compelling cut and concentration but this infant will require several years of aging. Wonderfully refined Perrieres of grand cru class.
1A4A8012
1993 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. 94 points. Signature coche gunflint, popcorn, dried extract, and smoked yellow fruit on the nose and palate. While the mid-palate did not have lots of substance, the flinty and popcorn-ish palate more than offset that shortfall. With the fresh acidity in the backdrop, the wine stayed energetic and interesting throughout dinner.
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1996 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 94+. Complex, lively aromas of lime, minerals and vanilla. Structured and almost shockingly intense; great material here. A step up from the ’97 in density. Extremely fresh and vibrant. A tactile, mouthfilling wine to drink and to eat. Palate-staining finish. I kept raising my score as I came back for more.
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2000 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. BH 93. A completely different expression than any of the foregoing wines, which is interesting since the vineyard abuts Chevalières. This is classic Meursault in style with round, rich, generous, “warm” fruit and flavors, offering toasted nut and butter aromas plus fresh sliced peach, apricot and apple scents but gorgeously complex, intense, refined and beautifully precise flavors of terrific focus and cut. But it is the superb depth on the finish that really set this apart and this delivers such quality that it is almost a match for the Perrières, a compliment in anyone’s book. Simply beautiful wine that has just now arrived at its apogee though it should be capable of holding here for at least a decade. Tasted several times with consistent notes. (Drink between 2008-2010)
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2008 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 92+. Classic aromas of lemon, lime, minerals, hazelnut and grilled almond; smells rich in dry extract. Then dense and superconcentrated, with terrific inner-mouth energy to the flavors of peach, orange blossom, lemon and crushed stone. Time-capsule Meursault, finishing with superb length. This too should age very well.
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1972 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes!
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Our menu.
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Starter Tea.
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Sakizuke. Uni, Cauliflower Puree, Carrot Coconut Ice, Trout Roe, Nori Sable.
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Zensai. Uni, Eggplant Dashi, Kabocha Roll, Oyster Lime, Flounder Hasamiage, Wagyu Beef Roll, Cucumber, Cauliflower, Carrot, Burnt Chickepea and Miso Puree.
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Uni.
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Wagyu Beef Roll.
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Cucumber, Cauliflower, Carrot, Burnt Chickepea and Miso Puree.
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Eggplant Dashi.
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Oyster Lime.
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Kabocha Roll.
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Flounder Hasamiage.

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Modern Zukuri. Japanese Fluke, California Nori, Pistachio.
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Owan. Hope Ranch Mussel, Summer Squash, Citrus Fern.
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Otsukuri. Traditional Sashimi.
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Yakimono. Tasmanian Sea Trout, Artichoke, Preserved Meyer Lemon.
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Mushimono. Tomato, Lobster Shinjo, Tomato and Fennel Mochi.
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Shiizakana. Spaghetti, Abalone, Picked Cod Roe, Truffles.
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Niku. A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Beef, Baby Corn.
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Sunomono. Nopales, Golden Kiwi, Cucumber, Aloe, Chia Seeds.
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Yuzu juice intermezzo.
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Pickled Ginger.
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Miso soup with shrimp heads.
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Nigiri sushi flight 1.
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Nigiri sushi flight 2.
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Blue crab handroll.
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Mizumono. Lychee Sorbet, Shiso Lime Granita. Super bright and delicious flavors with a really nice textural contrast.
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Mizumono. Peaches, Caramelized Pastry, Lavender Honey Ice-Cream, Hojicha Jelly.
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Petite Fours.
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So pretty!
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Roasted green tea.
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Burnt Basque Cheesecake Gelato — Milk steeped with Tahitian Vanilla Beans and Valencia Orange Peels and then blended with Cream-cheese and Egg Yolks, layered with house made “burnt” Caramel and topped with house-made Caramel Brittle, finished with the torch! — created by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #lemongrass #ginger #CremeBrûlée #basque #cheesecake #caramel #brittle #orange

Matchacchio Latte Gelato — Ceremonial Matcha Green Tea and Sicilian Pistacchio di Bronte DOP gelato base. I was skeptical the first time I made it, but it turned out to be a lovely flavor. And the green is all natural! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #pistacchio #bronte #matcha #GreenTea #Sicily
Vietnamese Hazelnut Coffee Gelato — Cafe du Monde coffee milk with Piedmontese Hazelnut Paste swirled with Sweetened Condensed Milk — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #vietnameseCoffee #coffee #CafeduMonde #SweetenedCondensedMilk #hazelnut

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A little take home snack for the morning.
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Post dinner lethargy.

The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese. N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular (here for the first, here for the second, here for the third). Plus we even did an amazing all foie gras meal here once. The place keeps getting better and better. This is thrice wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. At N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Coming back to N/Naka after the pandemic I thought they were really firing on all cylinders. This was the best meal I’ve had there since the incredible Foie meal. I think her sushi has gone from “okay” to “great” and with regard to other dishes she has toned down a bit of the “theatrics” slightly but really upped the flavor balance and intensity. There weren’t some of the more interactive dishes of years past, like cooking your own item on hot stones, but the cooking was even more on point.

Service is also spectacular, highlighted all the more by the extremely low understaffed standard currently found in LA.

And what can we say about the wines? Awesome labels, awesome wines. All the coches were flawless, although the 93 was my favorite. So good!

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Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

Related posts:

  1. November N/Naka
  2. N/Naka Reprise
  3. Knocked out by N/Naka
  4. N/Naka Birthday
  5. Nothing like N/Naka
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Champagne, Coche Dury, Foodie Club, Gelato, Japanese cuisine, Les Rougeots, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, Sushi, Wine
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