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Archive for Robatayaki

N/Soto Goodness

Dec15

Restaurant: N/Soto

Location: 4566 W Washington Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016. (323) 879-9455

Date: June 2 & 11, 2022

Cuisine: Japanese Izakaya

Rating: Elevated Izakaya

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The N/Naka group — the original being one of LA’s top Japanese restaurants — has recently opened a more casual Izakaya (Japanese bar food) place. One of my former cooks (and friend) even works there!
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Classic Japanese frontage.
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Unless you look out on the street 🙂 in which case it’s classic LA frontage.

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Nice modern (polished concrete) interior.
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The menu.

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Fizzy non alcoholic fermented drink.
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2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut. VM 99. The 2008 Cristal is one of the most complete, most dazzling Champagnes I have ever tasted. A stunning wine from any and all perspectives, the 2008 simply has it all. Spherical in construction, with superb persistence. The 2008 takes hold of all the senses and never gives up. One of the many things that makes the 2008 special is a combination of ripe fruit and bright, piercing acidity. Marzipan, lemon confit, dried flowers and orchard fruit all build into the explosive, resonant finish. “We learned from the mistakes of 1996, when we picked more on acid than ripeness, as was the norm in Champagne back then” Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon told me recently. “In 1996, the best fruit turned out to be the last picks, where the fruit was physiologically ripe. Today, we aim to pick all our fruit with that criteria.” (Drink between 2020-2050)
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From my cellar: 2007 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Vireuils. VM 88. Slightly reduced aromas of soft citrus fruits and toasted bread. Ripe, round and nicely balanced; classically dry but not austere, with a flavor of orange dominating the palate. Not yet complex but offers lovely texture. Roulot bottled his 2007s between January and March of 2009, after storing them in cuves for five or six months. Incidentally his Bourgogne blanc, bottled in March, offers lovely floral lift and bright acid cut, and reminded me of a baby Meursault.
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2011 Domaine Thenard Montrachet. BH 91-94. Here too there is visible but not intrusive wood that sets off a very closed nose, indeed this is almost mute. There is excellent volume and power to the big-bodied, intense and equally closed flavors that possess plenty of underlying tension on the tight, focused and beautifully long finish. This moderately concentrated effort is very much a work in progress. (Drink starting 2019)
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Warm House Made Tofu. ginger, tosa joyu. Soy sauce on the side. Hiding in the soy milk it was made of this was soft and delicious tofu with a bit of bite from the wasabi.1A4A7497
Mentai Mochi. nori, mentaiko. Really delicious. High acid marinate on the onions and seaweed was really good.

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Cucumber & Wakame. tosazu, ginger. Jelly version of the classic sunomono.
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Carrot & Fennel Tartare. pickled fennel, chickpea miso, chips. Dips were good.
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Ankimo. Sumiso, seaweed, ponzu. Really delicious. High acid marinate on the onions and seaweed was really good.
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Brussels Sprouts & Salmon Skin. red onion, poached egg. Nice warm salad with good crunch.
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Sashimi Moriawase. chef’s selection. Uni, scallop, toro, and others.

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Sashimi Moriawase. chef’s selection.
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Blue Crab Handroll.
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Toro Takuan Handroll.
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Shigoku oyseters. Tosazu jello, ginger. Nice bright oyster.
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Shigoku oysters with uni. Tosazu jello, ginger. Nice bright oyster.
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Beef Tataki. seared zabuton, crispy garlic, ponzu. Perhaps a touch overseared.
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Sakamushi clams. Shiitake, dashi. Absolutely delicious garlicky broth.
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Maitake Tempura. green tea salt. Very tasty.

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Softshell Crab Tempura.
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Steamed Seabass. shiitake, kombu, egg. Very soft and pleasant.
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From my cellar: 2008 Domaine Comte Georges de VogĂĽĂ© Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru. VM 94. The 2008 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (from young vines in Musigny) is a powerful, inward wine. There is lovely depth to the fruit, but the wine remains tightly coiled at this stage, even if occasional glimmers of richness emerge over time. Cloves, cinnamon and a host of other spiced notes add complexity on the finish. This is another superb, textured wine from de VogĂĽĂ©. (Drink between 2018-2028)
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2002 Nicolas Potel Grands-Echezeaux. VM 92-94. Red-ruby color. Penetrating, pure, highly complex aromas of raspberry, minerals, flowers and pungent spices. Wonderfully urgent and intense, with the mineral and pungent spice elements carrying through on the palate and giving the wine superb lift. Tightly wound but already showy. Finishes very long and nuanced, with fine, ripe tannins. From a selection massale planted in 1957. Very impressive.

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From my cellar: 1978 Camille Giroud Beaune 1er Cru Grèves. Awesome.
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Chicken and scallion and prime beef shoulder skewers (on the right).1A4A7874
Chicken Thigh with scallion.

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Lamb chop.
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Jidori Tebasaki. Jidori chicken wing. Nice and crispy.

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Kurobuta Sausage. Awesome!
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Unagi.
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Bacon Tomato. A little sour.
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Beef Tongue. butter lettuce, pickled red onion. Totally awesome, probably in no small park because of the pickled onions.
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Miso Baked Bone Marrow. umeboshi onigiri. Rice was really crispy and nice.
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Motsunabe. Tripe, daikon, cabbage. WIthout the funk this dish often has this was amazing.
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Trout and Ikura Donabe. This salty and slightly fishy rice was an awesome finish.
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The rice plated.
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Pickles, sesame seeds, and nori for the rice.
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Coffee Budino with jelly.

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Yuzu Boysenberry ice cream from Ginger in Culver City.
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Okinawa Yam Pudding, which has mochi (the balls), kokuto (Okinawa brown sugar), and adzuki beans. It’s topped with kokuto sauce that’s made in house and poured tableside. Very sweet!

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Melon Float. Vanilla ice cream with homemade melon soda (like Jidori but fancier). The melon soda was poured in tableside.
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Mango Sorbet.

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N/Soto is a very solid addition to the extensive LA Japanese food scene. It fills a niche (more or less) vacated by MTN, a place I miss a lot. It’s not quite as approachable to Izakaya newbies as that, but definitely upscale and a little more Caucasian friendly than more classic Izakaya like Hero or Takuma. And it’s WAY WAY better than the rash of more consumer friendly “sushi + robotoyaki” type pseudo izakaya like Kappo Miyabi. Those places can be ok, but the food is really uneven. N/Soto on the other hand is quite casual, not too expensive, and has very good execution for a fairly wide array of Japanese “drink friendly” dishes.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Molten Lava Goodness
  2. Hakata Izakaya Hero
  3. Japanese in China – Izakaya Akatora
  4. Matsumoto Maxsumoto
  5. Awesome Asuka
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Izakaya, Japanese cuisine, N Soto, Robatayaki, Sashimi, Wine

Katsuya Brentwood

May11

Restaurant: Katsuya Brentwood

Location: 11777 San Vicente Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90049. (310) 237-6174

Date: May 2, 2016

Cuisine: Sushi / Robatayaki

Rating: Like nobu light

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Katsuya started in the valley and branched over into Brentwood some time ago. I’ve been many times but somehow never gotten around to writing it up.

The inside has one of those trendy (circa 2010) Stark designed interiors. It’s loud and generally crowded. When it was never there was a velvet rope! Now, although busy on a Monday night, we got a party of 11 in that morning.

From my cellar: 2011 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling “Diabas”. 90 points. As usual, very crisp and precise on the nose – light and pure: powdered stone, light citrus. Gentle now with just the right touch of sweetness to round it out a bit while still having it stay exciting. Lemon and stone, nice balance. This is great. Spicy nose: cinnamon, nutmeg, petrol and apple. Quite dry on the palate. Gentle, balanced, spicy with good acid. Apple. Apple/spice finish.

EDAMAME. served warm and tossed lightly with salt.

VEGETABLE TEMPURA. asparagus, onion, yam, shiitake mushroom and green bean.

SAUTEED SHISHITO PEPPERS. A bit of a kick.

CRISPY RICE DUCK CONFIT. duck confit, foie gras and scallions over crispy rice. Nice rich hoisin/eel sauce sauce. Hard to tell what was under it though.

CREAMY ROCK SHRIMP. crispy bite-size rock shrimp tossed in a creamy, spicy sauce. Small portion, but I always love this dish.

From my cellar: 2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Montagny 1er Cru Les Burnins. 91 points. This wine is a dead ringer for an Aubert Ritchie with a few years of bottle age. And I’m trying to figure out if that is a complement or not. Only deep into the finish does a little white burg peek it’s head out from under the oak. It’s a delicious wine, but not to typicity. Balanced and a long finish.

MIXED GREEN SALAD. Miso dressing.

MUSHROOM SALAD. warm sautéed japanese mushrooms served on a bed of butter lettuce. Hard to eat these big lettuces with chopsticks, but the flavor was good.

TOFU SALAD. crispy tofu over mixed greens with miso vinaigrette.

YELLOWTAIL SASHIMI WITH JALAPEÑO. fresh yellowtail, ponzu and jalapeño make for a guest favorite. light and refreshing. This is certainly a classic.

SPICY ALBACORE SASHIMI WITH CRISPY ONION. a crunchy twist on albacore sashimi. Soft, but I wanted more in terms of flavor.

HALIBUT USUZUKURI. halibut sashimi delicately sliced with a hint of spice and citrus. One of my favorites — mostly because I love yuzu (which they don’t even name on the menu because their audience has no idea what it is).

From my cellar: 2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros. 93 ST. Good pale yellow. Restrained aromas of fresh apricot, pineapple and spices; showed riper stone fruit notes as it opened in the glass. Sweet, tactile and elegantly styled, with strong acids framing and lifting the intense peach flavor. Already boasts a lovely fat texture and considerable pliancy but this wine really needs three or four years to express itself.

MISO-MARINATED BLACK COD. This Katsuya signature uses sweet miso and the special taste of baked black cod to deliver unparalleled flavor. They call this a signature, but every upscale Japanese place has it! I’ve even made it at home (from the Nobu cookbook)!

Various Robata: Corn, pee wee potato, eggplant.

JIDORI CHICKEN BREAST. Nice tender chicken.

WAGYU TOBANYAKI. served sizzling hot with wild mushrooms. Also yummy, but I’ve certainly had better versions of this dish.

LOBSTER DYNAMITE. a half lobster sautĂ©ed with mushrooms, tossed in chef’s creamy dynamite sauce, and baked to perfection. Tasty. But dynamite makes everything tasty.

Various sushi. front to back: toro, albacore, blue fin, red snapper, salmon. Fine, but this is not great nigiri. Just “solid.” Better than supermarket by far, but well below any serious sushi bar.

Fresh water eel sushi.

Salmon egg sushi (ikura).

Tamago (egg omelet) sushi.

Overall, Katsuya is a Nobu copycat restaurant. The menu (except maybe the Robata) is lifted wholesale from the Nobu menu circa late 90s. There are a couple different items, but not much. Execution is slightly sloppier than Nobu, and there are none of the new experiments that Nobu uses to keep itself fresh. And even Nobu feels like a concept that needs some more innovation. This Japanese / Peruvian blend was mind-blowing in 1997, but feels overused 19 years later. So while Katsuya is tasty, and actually moderately reasonably priced “considering” (considering being that it’s “fancy” Japanese), to my super jaded restaurant guy sensibilities it seems jaded. Still, when I bring guests, particularly out of town guests to these type of restaurants they are always blown away, as other cities don’t have the Japanese depth LA does. And even in this city, a lot of people don’t know about the really great sushi bars, or can’t handle the more extreme ingredients, or extreme prices. Katsuya, Nobu, etc are more approachable for novices. Nobu himself wrote about this, saying pouring on all the vinegar based sauces made the raw fish palatable for beginners. It also hides mediocre fish quality.

I’d say that Katsuya is right there in the crowd a bit behind Nobu, even a bit behind Katana, but maybe a hair above Roku. It’s not in the league of more serious experimental sushi at all.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Food as Art: Sushi House Unico
  2. Takao Top Omakase
  3. Kiriko Sushi
  4. Kiriko Days – a la Carte
  5. Ozumo – Japan invades the Mall
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Brentwood, katsuya, Robatayaki, Sushi

Katana – Stripping it all Down

Aug07

Restaurant: Katana

Location: 8439 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069. (323) 650-8585

Date: July 30, 2015

Cuisine: Japanese American Sushi / Robata

Rating: Best I’ve had here

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I’ve long had mixed feelings about both Katana and IDG (Innovative Dining Group). They bug me a bit for being style over substance, and there is absolutely nothing innovative about them in the food department. But that being said they often run a fairly tight ship. BOA is a pretty solid modern steakhouse.

Back to Katana, which lurks right over the heart of the Sunset Strip. The crowd is different than it was when I was last here in 98 or 99 — then it was super hip and trendy. Now it’s still very busy, but feels more like a strong concierge referral business.

The patio gets hopping later.

Inside is the sushi / robata bar. Katana is a “Japanese” restaurant like I’ve never seen in Japan and it fuses a couple different culinary traditions. The sushi side inherits from Nobu / Matsuhisa (more Nobu) and then there is robata thrown in too boot. Oh, plus a ton of those creepy American mega rolls (like Spider Roll) that I don’t like: too much sauce and fry.

Tonight, however, we were there with a super regular who is friendly with the chef and so he made a lot of off menu stuff — and no silly rolls.

Our first wave of sashimi-like apps. This general category of heavily produced sashami is non-traditional, and deemphasizes the fish, but it is really tasty.

2006 MoĂ«t & Chandon Champagne Grand Vintage Brut RosĂ©. VM 91+. Dried rose petals, anise, sweet red cherries and mint waft from the glass in the 2006 Brut RosĂ© Grand Vintage. The 2006 is a big, large-scaled RosĂ© built on depth and structure. The flavors show early signs of development, but the 2006 should continue to drink well for many years based on its stuffing. Today the RosĂ© is a bit tight. I won’t be surprised to see it improve over the next few years. In 2006, the Grand Vintage RosĂ© is 47% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier, with a high percentage of still Pinot Noir (23%) that gives the wine much of its pure vinosity. Dosage is 5 grams per liter.

agavin: these two roses were a gift from a Moet rep and were much appreciated.

Albacore or similar tuna with ponzu, parmesan, avocado, and arugula. An odd blend of Italian salad and sashimi, this did taste great.

NV Ruinart Champagne Brut Rosé. VM 92. Light orange. Red berries, potpourri, toasty lees and orange peel on the highly fragrant nose. Lively and precise, with very good focus to its wild red berry and floral pastille flavors. The orange note comes back strong on the long, penetrating finish, which features a sweet raspberry quality.

Lobster, reduction, yuzu sauce, truffles. Again pretty over the top, but yummy.

2002 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean. 90 points.

Salmon, truffle, and tomato in a ponzu. Drawing these together are the vinegary sauces. These were “invented” (more adapted from Purvuian sauces) by Nobu Matsuhisa to make sashimi “easier” on the western palette.

2001 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes. Burghound 92. Ripe and extremely opulent intense citrus fruit and white flowers coupled with medium weight flavors dripping with minerality and enough fat to buffer the bracing acidity. There is a subtle underlying complexity and this is remarkably intense, assertive and precise yet there is excellent power and depth as well.

Scallop with yuzu and dressing. Delicious. Hard to go too wrong with scallop and vinegar.

2004 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos. Burghound 93. Noticeable reduction and very subtle wood influence highlights the strikingly elegant and airy white flower, grapefruit and anise-infused nose that precedes the intense, powerful and superbly well-detailed medium full flavors that explode like a bomb on the mouth coating finish. There is a bit more wood on the finish but there is so much material here that it will almost certainly absorb it over time. This is a steamroller of a wine yet one that maintains perfect balance and grace though I would strongly suggest decanting it for 20 minutes first because of the reduction.

agavin: a little bit of that 04 green on the finish.

Tai snapper with baby peach and flowers and dressing. This one was most novel, featuring the baby peach. It was really quiet lovely.

From my cellar: 1990 Robert Ampeau & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. Burghound 93. A truly wonderful nose of simply knockout complexity features notes of yeast and baked bread along with now fully mature aromas of a variety of floral notes and spice hints that gives way to mineral-suffused, round, intense and detailed medium full flavors that also offer outstanding depth on the sappy and mouth coating finish. This is drinking perfectly now and I wouldn’t hesitate to open one anytime as there is no further upside to be had. A beautiful effort of real style and grace.

Yellowtail with garlic and something else. Very tasty too, if rich.

2001 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers Vieille Vigne. Burghound 88-91. A major step up as this retains the elegance and precision of the Chambolle villages and adds more depth, weight and complexity plus more length. This is first rate and offers excellent potential for 5 to 8 years of improvement.

Now we segue drastically heavier in an out of order filet mignon with mashed potatoes, foie gras, and truffles. Not that it wasn’t very tasty, but it was hefty!

From my cellar: 1970 Gros Frère et SĹ“ur Vosne-RomanĂ©e. 93 points. Very much alive and drinking quite beautifully. A veritable chameleon in the glass, the aromas kept changing every time I brought the glass to my nose. First sour cherries, then papaya, then raspberries, then red clay, then lemon rind, then caramel — it was intoxicating. The palate, on the other hand, was a bit simple and one-dimensional, but I thought the nose more than made up for it. A lovely wine!

Beef rolled around foie. I guess it can get even heavier. Tasty too, but super rich.

1998 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays. Burghound 91. This has always had a wonderful nose and it has now reached the front edge of full maturity that complements well a flavor profile is a classy middleweight fighter’s grace and athleticism rather than a heavyweight’s power. The once relatively firm tannins have largely, if not completely, resolved to create a velvety and mouth coating texture that further delivers excellent length. There is a hint of acidity poking through on the finish but overall, this is indisputably an unqualified success for the vintage. Tasted multiple times with consistent notes.

Chicken liver skewers. Good for those with iron deficiency.

Sushi. Tuna, Yellowtail, red snapper, and salmon. These are the usual suspects of the nigiri world. They were nice pieces, but on the “been there done that” side.

Uni, battleship style. I never complain about good uni.

Toro. O-toro from the look of it. This wasn’t like Yamakase toro or anything, but I certainly wasn’t going to send it back.

Chicken cartilage skewers. Good flavor. Terrible cartilage texture.

Lamb chops. Oddball at a Japanese restaurant, but very nice.

Lobster tempura in ponzu sauce. Total guilty pleasure. This sauce was more like a sweet and spicy eggroll sauce. The lobster was so fried you would have never known there was anything in there. Despite that, it was amazing in a totally decadent fried way.

Snapper, and truffle, wrapped around foie gras with shiso. Such an odd combo, but delicious (if, like much of the meal, was very rich).

Turley Zinfandel. Don’t know which one. Well, it was a zin.

A dessert plate with flourless chocolate tart, a kind of cheesecake, and (way too little) ice cream.

2009 Heinrich Mayr (Nusserhof) Lagrein Alto Adige – SĂĽdtirol Riserva. VM 94. The 2009 Lagrein Riserva wraps around the palate with layers of super-expressive, radiant fruit. Sweet red berries, tobacco, crushed flowers, mint and anise are some of the many notes that are woven together in the glass. Extended time in barrel has added considerable textural richness. The 2009 needs quite a bit of time to open up, but it is fabulous. The silky tannins and overall depth of the fruit cover some of the wilder notes typical of Lagrein, but there is plenty of varietal expression. This is another striking, reference-point wine from Heinrich Mayr.

agavin: never heard of this — at all — but it was a great food wine.

A coffee chocolate mousse. My favorite.

Overall, a really fun evening. Service was fabulous and I enjoyed the food. It is, as mentioned above, an odd hybrid of different Japanese types and other more American influences. It emphasizes super rich ingredients and sauces in a way that really isn’t fundamentally Japanese. All the while failing to strike out on it’s own with any kind of real vision. This comes off more like an amped up “crowd pleaser” style, thus striking an odd note with my purist side. Still, it is a crowd pleaser — and plenty tasty.

For more LA Japanese dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Shunji Sushi – Nonstop Nigiri
  2. Yamakase – Burghound Bday
  3. Yamakase – Crab Guts are Yummy!
  4. More Mori Sushi
  5. Japanese in China – Izakaya Akatora
By: agavin
Comments (3)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Burgundy, Foodie Club, Japanese cuisine, Katana, Robatayaki, Sushi, Wine
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