Restaurant: Kojima
Location: 2130 Sawtelle Blvd, Ste 211, Los Angeles, CA 90025 | +1 (424) 248-0116
Date: October 7, 2025
Cuisine: Japanese
Rating: Very Good and a Lot of Fun!
Kojima is a new omakase place on Sawtelle, and I have to say, it’s a bit of a breath of fresh air in the LA Japanese dining scene. What sets this place apart is that there’s no sushi per se—it’s very Japanese but with a lot of different cooking techniques on display. Think less sushi bar, more izakaya meets kaiseki, with the chef showing off a wide range of skills.
The space itself is a bit unusual for an omakase spot. It’s medium-large, with a generous bar that can accommodate more than the typical intimate 8-10 seat setup. It’s comfortable without being stuffy, and there’s a convivial energy that makes it feel more approachable than some of the ultra-serious omakase temples around town.
Chef Hayato Kojima is the mastermind behind this operation. Born and raised in Tokyo, he trained under several renowned sushi chefs to refine his culinary skills, working at top eateries in both Tokyo and Los Angeles before launching Kojima. His philosophy is deeply rooted in traditional Japanese culinary practices, particularly the “kaiseki” tradition—a multi-course meal that focuses on balance, seasonality, and simplicity. But rather than just replicating what he learned, Kojima has infused his own creative spirit, pushing beyond sushi to reveal the depth and variety within Japanese cuisine.
The space is a bit weird, medium large for an omakase place, with a generous bar.
Behind the bar.
From my cellar: Domaine Roulot Meursault “Clos des Bouchères” Monopole 2011 and Domaine Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru “Champs-Canet” 2011. Both Premier Cru white Burgundies from Côte de Beaune, showcasing the minerality and elegance of these legendary producers.
Chawan with ikura (salmon eggs). Silky custard with briny pop. A classic Japanese start—the custard was silky, and the ikura provided those little bursts of brine and sea.
Next came something you don’t see every day: cod sperm sacks with a kind of mountain yam. Soft textures. Squirmy. This is one of those dishes that’s an acquired taste—the texture is, well, exactly what it sounds like. Creamy, slightly slippery, and very much a “you either get it or you don’t” kind of thing. I appreciated the technique and the boldness of putting it on the menu.
Then we had chicken hearts. Or at least I think they were chicken hearts—grilled to perfection with that slightly chewy, rich organ meat texture. Really quite good, with a nice char.
White fish sashimi with some yuzu was next. Clean, delicate, with that bright citrus note cutting through the fish’s natural sweetness.
Albacore followed—buttery, rich, with that characteristic mild flavor. A classic.
Then a light dashi broth with noodles and white fish. This was comforting, with that umami-rich dashi providing depth while the noodles and fish kept it light and refreshing.
Grilled fish—perfectly cooked, with a nice sear and that sweet, smoky flavor you get from proper grilling.
Next, something under a pile of radish—I honestly can’t remember what was under there, but the radish itself was crisp and refreshing.
Fried crab tempura—light, crispy batter with sweet crab inside. Textbook tempura execution.
Japanese meatballs—very simple, totally awesome.
Meatball with salad. Tastes like burger! In the best possible way.
Miso soup—classic and comforting.
Toro-dan—rich, fatty tuna over rice. Decadent.
Tea to cleanse the palate.
Dessert was sweet tamago or maybe it was cheesecake—it had that custardy, slightly sweet quality of tamago but also a richness that suggested cheesecake. Either way, it was a nice way to end.
The wines for tonight.
Outside with Chef Hayato Kojima.
Kojima was very good and a lot of fun. The food was a bit different—no sushi per se, but very Japanese with a lot of different cooking techniques on display. What I appreciated most was the range: from the adventurous (cod sperm sacks) to the comforting (those meatballs!), Kojima showed a willingness to explore the full spectrum of Japanese cuisine rather than sticking to the expected omakase formula.
The wines—both 2011 white Burgundies—paired beautifully with the lighter dishes and provided a nice counterpoint to some of the richer preparations. The Roulot and Ramonet are both drinking at their peak right now, showing that beautiful balance of fruit, minerality, and tertiary complexity that makes white Burgundy so compelling.
If you’re looking for something a little different in the LA omakase scene—less precious, more playful, with serious technique but a relaxed vibe—Kojima is worth a visit. It’s not trying to be the next Sushi Ginza Onodera or Morihiro, and that’s exactly what makes it refreshing.
