Archive for Foodie Club

World Seafood Again

Sep03

Restaurant: Seafood World Restaurant [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 15351 Brookhurst St, Westminster, CA 92683. (714) 775-8828

Date: April 27, 2025

Cuisine: Cantonese seafood and dim sum (large banquet hall)

Rating: Great

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Back here about 2-3 weeks later!

World Seafood Restaurant opened its doors in 2014, taking over a cavernous former banquet space on South Garfield Avenue and quickly asserting itself as one of the San Gabriel Valley’s grand Cantonese dining rooms. The owners—veteran Hong Kong restaurateur Raymond Wong and his Los Angeles–raised daughter Stephanie—set out to recreate the celebratory seafood palaces they remembered from Kowloon: soaring ceilings hung with crystal chandeliers, gleaming marble floors, a forest of live tanks by the entrance, and a sea of round tables capped with white-linen–clad lazy Susans. From the outset, the Wongs have run the restaurant as a family affair; Raymond oversees purchasing at the downtown docks at dawn, while Stephanie manages the front of house with an eye toward bilingual service that welcomes both first-generation regulars and curious Angelenos discovering dim sum for the first time.

Geoduck body sashimi. Excellent. Translucent, sweet-briny slices with a firm, satisfying snap and a clean ocean finish.

Geoduck neck, fried. Lightly fried, it turns golden and crisp outside with a sweet, briny chew; the clean ocean flavor and snappy texture make it simply satisfying.

The dish, a velvety mound of Sesame Noodles, entices with its golden hue, glistening beneath a delicate sheen of sesame oil. The air is rich with a nutty aroma, subtly interwoven with hints of garlic and a whisper of sweetness. Each strand of noodle, meticulously pulled and lovingly prepared, offers a silken texture, yielding effortlessly to the bite. A sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds adds a delightful crunch, enhancing the dish’s complex symphony of flavors — a harmonious balance of umami and sweetness that lingers on the palate, inviting one to savor each exquisite morsel.

Fried oysters (again). Crisp, briny, and indulgent, with a tender pop inside a crunchy coat—exactly why I keep ordering them.

Szechuan-Style Scallops. Actually a little spicy and quite delicious, even with the bell peppers. The scallops are tender, with a gentle heat that lets their sweetness shine.

Roast pig. Expect shattering crackling over tender, juicy meat, with deep porky savor and a whisper of smoke.

The table is graced with a stunning presentation of crispy suckling pig, its golden-brown skin glistening beneath soft light, an inviting visual pathway to the rich delights within. As the aromatic scent wafts through the air, hints of roasted garlic and a whisper of star anise mingle, stimulating the senses with each eager breath. The skin crackles delightfully with the first bite, giving way to supremely tender, succulent meat that boasts an umami depth, layered with delicate juices reminiscent of sweet and savory caramel. A final accent of fresh herbs lifts the dish, weaving a tapestry of flavor that is nothing short of extraordinary, inviting a slow, appreciative exploration of each sumptuous mouthful.

Presented with an extravagant flourish, the dish Si-Check Roast Suckling Pig captivates with its lustrous mahogany skin, glimmering under the soft glow of ambient light. A symphony of savory aromas wafts through the air, redolent of softly caramelized spices and a hint of smokiness, inviting anticipation. As you delve into the tender flesh, the luscious texture is a harmonious balance of crisp and succulent; the crackling skin shatters with a satisfying crunch, revealing moist, flavorful meat beneath. Each bite is an indulgent revelation of rich umami, beautifully complemented by a subtle sweetness that lingers, a true testament to the art of culinary mastery.

Weird poultry part consommé. Crystal-clear and aromatic, with a silky, collagen-rich body and a gently gamey depth; surprisingly comforting for an offal-leaning broth.

Steamed fish. Delicate and moist, it showcases the fish’s natural sweetness and tender flakes, with a clean, subtle flavor that lets simple aromatics like ginger and scallion shine.

Fried “milk”. More or less egg whites, milk, and shrimp. Mushy and delicious. Silky-soft curds with gentle dairy sweetness and a light shrimp savor.

Beef and veggies on crispy vermicelli. The beef was a bit overcooked/sketchy, but the sauce on the crispy noodles was killer. The crackly vermicelli soaks up the sauce, giving a satisfying crunchy-to-saucy contrast alongside the veggies.

The dish aptly known as Shrimp and Egg Stir-Fry presents a harmonious marriage of hues, with its golden-yellow blend of softly scrambled eggs accentuated by the tender coral of plump shrimp. As you draw closer, a delicate briny aroma wafts upward, mingling with the earthy scent of green onions that punctuate the dish. Each morsel delivers a luxurious creaminess that envelops the palate, while the freshness of the shrimp provides a gentle snap, creating a textured contrast that dances with every bite. The flavor profile is a nuanced interplay of umami and sweetness, leaving a lingering satisfaction that beckons for the next taste.

The dish, an enticing presentation of Stir-Fried Mushrooms with Mixed Vegetables, boasts an earthy palette of golden umber and rich caramel, accented by vibrant flecks of orange and green. Aromas waft from the plate, a heady blend of umami and warm, roasting garlic, inviting the senses to engage. Each bite reveals a delightful contrast between the tender, velvety mushrooms and the crisp, tender-crisp vegetables, harmonizing beautifully with the glossy, savory sauce that clings to every morsel. The flavor is a masterful interplay of nutty undertones from the mushrooms, balanced by the natural sweetness of the carrots and the faint saline kiss from the accompanying sauce, leaving a lingering, satisfying depth on the palate.

Crispy chicken. It has shatter-crisp skin with a golden crunch and juicy meat underneath. It’s savory and satisfying.

Yang Chow Fried Rice. A Cantonese staple with roots in Yangzhou: fluffy, separate grains tossed with char siu, shrimp, peas, and egg. Savory with a hint of wok hei, lightly sweet, and comforting.

Abalone and mushrooms. I was getting very full, but these were nice. The abalone’s gentle brininess and slight bounce pair well with the mushrooms’ earthy umami, making a clean, savory bite.

Jelly dessert. Wobbly and translucent, it’s lightly sweet with a clean, quivering bite and a playful sheen.

A stunning Puligny-Montrachet from Jacques Carillon, this wine hails from the renowned Burgundy region. The 2018 vintage showcases a vibrant acidity, round mouthfeel, and flavors of ripe pear, apricot, and delicate oak, making it a perfect companion for rich seafood dishes such as scallops or lobster in butter sauce.

The 2017 Meursault from Pierre Morey is a true expression of the terroir, displaying notes of honey, white flowers, and hazelnut with a creamy texture. This white Burgundy pairs beautifully with roasted chicken or creamy pasta dishes, elevating any meal with its elegant structure and complexity.

This exquisite Chassagne-Montrachet from Domaine Ferret, vintage 2016, is an embodiment of finesse and balance. With bright citrus notes, layers of stone fruit, and a hint of minerality

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Tony Lau at World Seafood
  2. World Seafood is Elite
  3. Dim Sum – World Seafood
  4. Banquet for Lunch
  5. Westside Family Style
By: agavin
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Do Chicken Out

Aug25

Restaurant: Gokigen Tori

Location: 4410 Sepulveda Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230.

Date: April 18, 2025

Cuisine: Yakitori

Rating: Fresh and excellent

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Erick had met one of the owners of this new Culver City artisanal Yakitori place.

So we went for the soft opening.

Medium sized room and a generous bar.

These make me think of Ramen Roll.

The Gosset Champagne Grand Réserve is a stellar expression from the renowned Champagne region of France, characterized by its elegant blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. This non-vintage bubbly offers a sumptuous bouquet of ripe apple, toasted bread, and a hint of hazelnut, revealing its nuanced complexity. Best paired with seafood dishes like oysters or creamy cheeses, it lightens the palate and elevates the dining experience with its fine bubbles and zesty acidity.

The 2011 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Cave des Ducs Monopole by Benjamin Leroux exemplifies the elegance of Pinot Noir from Burgundy. This vintage presents a striking bouquet of red cherries, floral notes, and earthiness, seamlessly intertwined with subtle oak nuances. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity make it a perfect companion for duck confit or mushroom risotto, enhancing the dish’s rich flavors while maintaining a refined balance.

With its delicate structure and nuanced complexity, this wine invites slow sipping and contemplation, revealing layers of spice and minerality as it breathes. Ideal for cellaring, it will continue to evolve, but is already accessible and harmonious, showcasing the terroir of Volnay beautifully.

The 2009 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru “Les Fuées” from Dujac Fils & Père showcases the elegance of Burgundy with its captivating aromas of red berries, violets, and subtle earthiness. Hailing from the prestigious Côte de Nuits region, this Pinot Noir exhibits a graceful structure and refined tannins, making it a perfect pairing for duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto.

This wine’s luscious texture and vibrant acidity are complemented by its layered complexity, with hints of spice and cedar emerging as it breathes. The 2009 vintage, marked by warm conditions, allows the fruit to shine brilliantly, creating a harmonious balance that can be enjoyed now or aged further for added depth.

The bar is the place to be for that authentic binchochan vibe.

And an old friend from World Sake was there too!

The menu at Gokigen Tori showcases a delightful variety of Japanese-inspired dishes, emphasizing grilled and fried preparations, including options such as yakitori and donburi. Diners can expect a mix of traditional flavors and contemporary presentations, offering a satisfying experience for both casual eaters and culinary enthusiasts alike.

Cute!

A plate of apps.

Firefly shrimp with miso sauce. Tender and sweet-briny, the shrimp have a gentle snap, while the miso brings warm umami and a glossy sheen.

Chicken liver toast. REBA pâté. Ethical liver pâté. Silky, rich, and gently iron-sweet, with the toast adding a satisfying crunch.

In a delicate presentation, the dish titled Seasoned Shiitake and Celery Stems invites with a vibrant palette of vivid greens and soft, caramelized browns. Each ingredient is meticulously treated, radiating a sweet, earthy aroma that hints at the rich umami depths to come. The crisp texture of the celery offers a refreshing contrast to the tender, velvety shiitake, creating a harmonious mouthfeel. As you savor each bite, the dish unfolds layers of flavor—subtle sweetness interlaced with a hint of smokiness, layered in a graceful dance that lingers delightfully on the palate.

A vibrant Garden Fresh Salad, beckons with its lively palette of greens punctuated by slender ribbons of orange carrot and delicate cherry tomatoes, each glistening under the soft light. The air is perfumed with the subtle, earthy aroma of freshly torn herbs, mingling with a whisper of citrus that invigorates the senses. Each bite unveils a delightful medley of textures: the crispness of lettuce, coupled with the tender snap of bean sprouts, dances harmoniously on the palate. The interplay of flavors is a celebration of nature itself—refreshing, tangy notes interspersed with a hint of nuttiness that lingers, inviting you to savor every morsel of this exquisite creation.

Sashimi. Pristine raw fish served in cool, delicate slices, with clean ocean sweetness and a tender, silken bite.

GOKIGEN KUSHI. Our Signature Skewer – Chicken Wing Drumette. Crisp-skinned and juicy, with a savory, lightly smoky glaze that begs another bite.

Dashimaki Tamago Mentaiko. Omelette topped with mentaiko. Silky, dashi-laced egg with a tender, custardy bite, while the mentaiko adds a briny, gently spicy pop and a pretty coral sheen.

HATSU. Chicken Heart. Gently grilled, it’s springy yet tender and deeply savory, with a subtle mineral sweetness.

Chawanmushi. Steamed egg custard with ikura and uni. Silky and gently dashi-scented, the custard is delicate and savory, with the briny pop of ikura and creamy uni adding a lush, saline finish.

Sunagimo. Crunchy, chewy chicken gizzard. Lightly salted and grilled yakitori-style, it delivers a snappy bite with gentle smokiness and a clean, minerally savor.

Seseri. Tender chicken from the neck area. Juicy and slightly fatty, it has a gentle chew and really shines when kissed by a smoky grill.

Chashu Ajitama. Slow-cooked Japanese pork belly with ramen egg. Looks like dog food—tastes great. Tender, slow-braised pork with melting fat and a jammy, marinated yolk; savory, salty-sweet, and deeply comforting.

Tebasaki. Crispy Grilled Chicken Wing. Expect crisp skin with a lick of smoke and juicy meat, often finished with a sweet-salty soy glaze and a peppery kick.

Negi Niku. Chicken thigh pieces with Tokyo negi. Juicy, lightly charred chicken meets the sweet, oniony snap of negi—simple, satisfying yakitori comfort. Clean, savory flavors with a kiss of smoke and a tender bite.

Bonjiri (“Bon-Bon Jirit”) – Chicken-Tail Skewers. Nankotsu – Chicken Cartilage. Bonjiri is rich and fatty with crispy, caramelized edges, while nankotsu delivers a salty, smoky crunch.

KAWA. Crispy Chicken Skin. Shatteringly crisp and deeply savory, with golden, blistered edges and a rich, smoky chew beneath the crackle.

Chee-P Maki. Pork-and-cheese bomb with green pepper shell. Melty and savory inside, with a crisp, fresh snap from the pepper—a playful, big-flavor bite.

A5 Wagyu. A5 Japanese Wagyu beef with premium sea urchin topping. Silky, intensely marbled beef and creamy, briny-sweet uni combine for a decadent, melt-in-the-mouth bite.

A5 Unagi. Grilled freshwater eel flown in from Toyosu Fish Market in Japan. Expect silky, buttery flesh, umami-rich and gently smoky, with a light char at the edges.

Crème brûlée with a bit of bean topping. Classic crackly caramel gives way to a silky, gently sweet custard beneath; the topping adds a playful extra note without stealing the spotlight.

This was some of the best Yakitori I’ve had in LA since Yakitori-ya. The quality of the chicken is extremely high and the chef really knows his charcoal!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Soy Sauce Mexican Chilies
  2. Foodie Kusano
  3. Chicken Crawl – Red Chicken
  4. Final Miyagi
  5. Good Night at Good Alley
By: agavin
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Marcus at Pasjoli

Aug23

Restaurant: Pasjoli

Location: 2732 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405. (424) 330-0020

Date: April 17, 2025

Cuisine: French

Chef: Dave Beran / Marcus Jernmark

Rating: One of the best here yet

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Dave first encountered Marcus Jernmark’s culinary genius during visits to Aquavit in NY and 3 Michelin star Frantzén in Sweden. Though they didn’t meet then, Dave was captivated by the meals. Years later, Marcus visited Dialogue, Dave’s first LA restaurant, and the two chefs connected over their shared journey of leaving the three-star world to forge their own paths. “Marcus is a kindred spirit,” Dave says. “We both chose the road less traveled, and it’s brought us here.” This dinner is a toast to bold choices and bold flavors.

Pasjoli opened its doors on Main Street in September 2019, the second Santa Monica venture from chef-owner Dave Beran, who earned national attention at Chicago’s Next and later at the tiny, tasting-menu-only Dialogue a few blocks north. With Pasjoli he set out to create the kind of grand Parisian bistro he had always admired—one that honors the rigor of Escoffier while remaining rooted in Southern California’s markets. The kitchen turns out pâté en croûte studded with pistachios, buttery quenelles of pike in lobster sauce, and the show-stopping pressed duck for two, yet the produce is hauled in daily from the Santa Monica Farmers Market and the sauces are lightened to suit the beach climate. That marriage of classical French technique and coastal seasonality quickly drew raves, a spot on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list, and in 2021 a Michelin star, cementing Pasjoli as one of the city’s essential fine-dining addresses.

The room amplifies the food’s quietly luxurious spirit. A façade of folding glass doors keeps the dining room airy by day, while at night low amber lighting glints off a pewter bar, burgundy leather banquettes, and brass railings that recall a Belle Époque brasserie without lapsing into nostalgia. The soundtrack is lively, the service choreographed but relaxed, and the energy spills onto the sidewalk tables that watch the steady buzz of Main Street. In a neighborhood better known for beach cafés and juice bars, Pasjoli provides a grown-up counterpoint—elegant yet unpretentious, driven by craft rather than trend. Its arrival signaled a maturing of Santa Monica’s dining scene, and four years on it remains a magnet for chefs, sommeliers, and diners who want to taste classic French cuisine filtered through a distinctly Californian lens.
Chef-owner Dave Beran grew up in Wisconsin, cut his teeth in Chicago, and made his name working alongside Grant Achatz at Alinea before taking the helm at the Alinea Group’s boundary-pushing restaurant Next. During his five-year run there he orchestrated the famed rotating menus—most memorably “Paris 1906” and “Tribute to elBulli”—and earned a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Great Lakes in 2014. In 2017 he decamped to the West Coast, opening the 18-seat tasting counter Dialogue in Santa Monica, which garnered a Michelin star in its first California guide. Pasjoli, his bustling French restaurant on Main Street, followed in late 2019 and soon claimed a star of its own, cementing Beran as one of the rare chefs to earn Michelin recognition on two coasts.

Pasjoli channels the rigor of haute cuisine into the soul of a Parisian bistro. Beran is fascinated by the structure and precision of classic French technique—an obsession born while recreating Escoffier’s dishes at Next—yet he tempers that formality with the easy affluence of Southern California produce and a room set for neighborhood conviviality rather than hushed reverence. The pressed duck à la rouennaise, carved tableside with an antique silver duck press, is a signature centerpiece, while seemingly humble plates like onion tart or a croque monsieur arrive layered with painstaking detail, hidden stocks, and sauces that take days to build. His cooking carries the intellectual curiosity of the modernist kitchens he came from, but the plating is deliberately unfussy, foregoing tweezers for the warmth of a bistro.

Beran’s guiding philosophy is that luxury should feel generous, not exclusionary. He believes a restaurant’s role is to “honor the people who grew the ingredients and the guests who saved up to eat them,” so menus are written around peak-season markets, staff are encouraged to describe dishes in plain language, and service aims for polish without pretense. The result is a restaurant that nods to the grand traditions of Taillevent and Troisgros while speaking the relaxed dialect of Santa Monica—a place where a perfect omelet and a grand cru Burgundy can share the same table, united by the idea that craft and comfort should never be at odds.

Welcome cocktail. A little sweet but delicious, this drink offers a refreshing balance that tantalizes the palate. Its vibrant color and inviting aroma make it a perfect start to any meal.

Cheese rind “en croûte” is a delightful dish that showcases the rich, creamy texture of cheese enveloped in a crisp, golden crust. The contrast between the crunchy exterior and the luscious interior creates a satisfying bite, while the flavors meld beautifully, offering a savory experience that is both comforting and indulgent.

Buckwheat “pannkaka”: Swedish vendace roe, raw beef, and egg yolk garum*. This dish presents a delightful interplay of textures, with the nutty buckwheat pancake providing a hearty base for the rich, creamy yolk and the delicate, briny roe. Each bite is a harmonious blend of flavors that celebrates the essence of Swedish cuisine.

Charred broccolini is beautifully complemented by pickled fennel and a sprinkle of fennel furikake, creating a delightful balance of flavors. The whipped goat cheese adds a creamy richness, while the market greens provide a fresh, vibrant crunch that elevates the dish.

Ris de veau agnolotti features delicate pasta parcels filled with sweetbreads, complemented by earthy morels, savory aged duck ham, and a touch of fortified wine. The dish is a harmonious blend of rich flavors and luxurious textures, with the agnolotti offering a tender bite that beautifully contrasts the umami depth of the other ingredients.

Short rib smørrebrød features tender, flavorful short rib atop a crisp, hearty bread, complemented by pickled cucumber, egg jam, dijonnaise, and vibrant watermelon radish. The dish offers a delightful contrast of textures, with the richness of the meat balanced by the acidity of the pickles and the creaminess of the egg jam.

The dish, Braised Beef Tartine, presents a stunning tableau of rich mahogany hues, inviting the diner to delve into its depths. The air is perfumed with a tantalizing blend of umami and herbs, each note harmonizing to evoke a sense of rustic elegance. The tartine’s crust is a masterclass in texture, boasting a crisp exterior that yields to a tender, savory filling of slow-cooked beef, while the delicate interplay of pickled cucumbers and fresh herbs adds a refreshing crunch. Each bite is a symphony of flavors, where the earthiness of the meat meets the bright acidity of the garnishes, creating a culinary experience that is both luxurious and grounded in tradition.

Asparagus with caraway sauce mousseline is a delightful dish that showcases the vibrant green spears, elegantly draped in a creamy, herb-infused sauce. The tender asparagus offers a crisp bite, while the caraway adds a subtle warmth and complexity, making for a beautifully balanced flavor profile.

Grilled rainbow trout is beautifully complemented by asparagus and a caraway sauce mousseline, adorned with market herbs and flowers. The fish boasts a delicate, flaky texture and a subtly smoky flavor, while the vibrant herbs and flowers add a refreshing touch to the dish.

Apple & rhubarb tarte tatin is a delightful twist on the classic French dessert, featuring the perfect balance of sweet apples and tart rhubarb. The caramelized crust is beautifully golden, while the tender fruit beneath offers a luscious, melt-in-your-mouth experience that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Fromage blanc sherbet, lavender caramel. This delightful dessert boasts a creamy, smooth texture that contrasts beautifully with the silky sweetness of the lavender caramel, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. The subtle floral notes elevate the dish, making it a refreshing and elegant treat.

Tasty stuff!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Parisian Pasjoli
  2. Yangban at Pasjoli
  3. Delightful Danbi
  4. Charming Chelsea
  5. Soy Sauce Mexican Chilies
By: agavin
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Takeda Two

Aug18

Restaurant: Takeda Sushi [1, 2]

Location: 123 Astronaut Ellison S Onizuka St #307, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 613-0083

Date: April 11, 2025

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi

Rating: Could be the best sushi I’ve had in LA

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Since opening its quietly elegant doors in 2021 at 118 Judge John Aiso Street in Little Tokyo, Sushi Takeda has become an insider favorite among Los Angeles omakase counters. The restaurant is owned and helmed by chef-proprietor Hideyuki “Hideo” Takeda, a Tokyo native who spent decades honing Edomae technique at respected sushi bars in both Japan and Southern California before striking out on his own. His 14-seat space is a study in restrained Japanese design—blond hinoki, charcoal slate, and a single, gleaming sushi bar where every evening’s service unfolds like a choreographed whisper.

Takeda’s culinary philosophy centers on precision, seasonality, and minimal intervention: fish is flown in daily from Toyosu Market or sourced from specialty West Coast fishermen, then meticulously aged, cured, or lightly torched to coax out umami. Koshihikari rice seasoned with akazu red vinegar is molded into compact, two-bite nigiri that vanish as quickly as they appear. The effect is a serene, almost meditative progression of flavors—Santa Barbara uni laced with yuzu, lightly pickled kohada, sublimely fatty toro—served directly from the chef’s hand. In a downtown scene crowded with high-profile sushi counters, Sushi Takeda occupies a niche of understated excellence, earning nods from critics and dedicated regulars alike for delivering one of the city’s most authentic, deeply personal omakase experiences.

With its vibrant pink umbrellas and sleek modern architecture, the airy outdoor space invites diners to indulge in a lively culinary experience, seamlessly blending contemporary design with a relaxed, sociable atmosphere.

Takeda’s omakase is formally Edomae yet unmistakably personal. He seasons Koshihikari rice with a blend of two akazu (sake-lees vinegars) for contrast and temperature-controls every neta in individual cedar drawers, but he allows himself flourishes learned in California: a whisper of smoked soy on kinmedai, freshly grated wasabi folded with Santa Barbara uni, or an optional pairing of Hokkaido scallop and Baja citrus that would scandalize the purists back home. Influences range from his mentor Masaki Sato—who drilled into him the virtue of restraint—to the late LA pioneer Hiro Urasawa, whose theatrical minimalism convinced Takeda that intimacy could be as memorable as luxury.

Within three years the restaurant earned a Michelin star, a spot on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best Restaurants,” and a quiet cult among visiting chefs. Takeda credits the accolades to a philosophy he phrases simply: “Ichigo-ichie—one moment, one meeting.” The night’s menu is built not around status fish but around conversation: what the diner is curious about, what the fisherman happened to land, what the season offers that will never be repeated in exactly the same way. “Technique keeps the past alive,” he likes to say, “but hospitality is how we cook for the present.”

Bathed in a serene palette of soft yellows and clean lines, Sushi Takeda’s exterior beckons diners with its understated elegance — way understated.

The menu at Sushi Takeda features a curated Signature Omakase experience.

The 2009 Batard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive is a stunning representation of Burgundy’s Grand Cru pedigree. This rich, complex Chardonnay showcases aromas of ripe stone fruits, subtle oak, and a hint of minerality, reflecting its terroir beautifully. With a creamy texture and vibrant acidity, it pairs exquisitely with lobster in a butter sauce or a delicate roasted chicken.

As an example of exceptional craftsmanship, this wine delights with layers of flavor, including notes of hazelnut and honey, complemented by a long, elegant finish. The vintage’s warm growing season has resulted in a wine that is approachable now yet possesses the structure to evolve gracefully over time, making it a perfect choice for special occasions.

Baby eel and uni is a delightful combination that showcases the ocean’s bounty. The tender, slightly chewy texture of the baby eel pairs beautifully with the creamy, briny richness of the uni, creating a harmonious balance of flavors that is both fresh and indulgent.

Hairy crab ball is a delightful dish that showcases the sweet, tender meat of hairy crab, expertly blended into a savory ball. Its crispy exterior gives way to a rich, flavorful filling, making each bite a satisfying experience that captures the essence of coastal cuisine.

Salon, located in the renowned Côte des Blancs region of Champagne, produces this exquisite 1996 vintage, a true embodiment of elegance and finesse. Known for its pure Chardonnay expression, this Champagne showcases notes of white flowers, citrus zest, and a hint of brioche. Its creamy texture and persistent bubbles make it a perfect pairing for delicate seafood dishes, such as oysters or lobster.

The 1996 vintage is particularly celebrated for its balance and aging potential, allowing it to develop complex flavors over time. With its vibrant acidity and minerality, this wine not only delights the palate but also invigorates the senses, making it an exceptional choice for special occasions or sophisticated gatherings.


Blue fin.

Condiments.

Conch.

Young red snapper.

Presented with an air of quiet elegance, the dish Umi no Sachi captivates the senses with its vibrant hues of deep emerald and gold. The aroma wafts gently, an inviting blend of umami and the briny essence of the ocean, drawing you closer. The texture is a harmonious interplay of creamy richness enveloped in a delicate, crisp seaweed that crackles with each bite. As you savor it, the flavor unfolds—subtle yet profound, with layers of sweetness and a whisper of saltiness that linger, echoing the sea’s bounty and leaving a memorable imprint on the palate.

Spechial uni from near Kobe—almost “aged.” This delicacy boasts a creamy texture and a subtly sweet, briny flavor that lingers on the palate, showcasing the unique umami profile of the region. Its appearance is a vibrant golden hue, inviting and luxurious.

Eaten with toasted nori and creamy like fermented butter! The combination offers a delightful contrast between the crisp, umami-rich nori and the rich, velvety texture of the dish, creating a harmonious balance that is both comforting and indulgent.


Bluefin tuna.

Chef Hideyuki Takeda was born in Sapporo, where his family ran a small fish-wholesaling business that kept him on the docks before dawn from the time he could walk. After an apprenticeship in the kitchens of Tokyo’s Tsukiji market district, he spent a decade behind the counter at some of the capital’s most exacting Edomae houses—first at Sushi Matsunami in Nihonbashi and later at the two-Michelin-starred Sushi Shin in Ginza—before moving to California in 2012. Los Angeles diners first met him as head itamae at the original Sushi Zo in downtown; stints at Q and Shiki Beverly Hills followed, sharpening both his English and his understanding of the American palate. In 2020 he struck out on his own, opening Sushi Takeda on a quiet second-floor mezzanine in DTLA’s Jewelry District, where the 10-seat hinoki counter now books out weeks in advance.


Firefly squid.

The Salon Champagne, produced in the renowned Côte des Blancs region of France, is a stunning example of a vintage Blanc de Blancs. The 2008 vintage showcases a remarkable balance of crisp acidity and delicate effervescence, offering notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a touch of brioche. This elegant sparkling wine pairs exquisitely with seafood dishes, particularly freshly shucked oysters or a delicate lobster salad.

With its rich history and meticulous craftsmanship, Salon’s wines are a celebration of terroir, making it a perfect choice for special occasions. The 2008 vintage’s complexity and depth resonate beautifully with the refined palate, ensuring a memorable tasting experience that elevates any gathering.

Squid with bottarga is a delightful dish that showcases the briny richness of the sea. The tender squid is perfectly complemented by the umami-packed bottarga, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures. Its elegant presentation invites you to savor each bite, making it a memorable culinary experience.

Chawanmushi with seaweed, yuzu, and oyster is a delicate Japanese steamed egg custard that beautifully balances savory and umami flavors. The silky texture is complemented by the briny richness of the oyster and the bright citrus notes of yuzu, creating a dish that is both comforting and refreshing.


Squid egg!  (sack)

The squid eggs out of their case. Not for the faint of heart.

Mackerel.

Firefly squid a second way, marinated with sake and Chinese wine. This dish showcases the delicate sweetness of the squid, enhanced by the umami of the marinade, resulting in a tender and flavorful bite that is visually striking with its iridescent hues.

Abalone with abalone sauce is a dish that showcases the delicate, briny flavor of the sea. The tender, slightly chewy texture of the abalone is beautifully complemented by the rich, umami-packed sauce, creating a harmonious balance that is both luxurious and satisfying.

The 1999 Chablis Grand Cru Clos from Domaine William Fèvre showcases the pinnacle of Chardonnay from the Chablis region. Its vibrant acidity balances the complex layers of citrus, green apple, and a hint of flint, reflecting the terroir’s unique minerality. This elegant wine pairs beautifully with fresh oysters or poached fish, enhancing the dish’s delicate flavors.

The rich history of this Grand Cru, marked by its limestone soil and meticulous vineyard practices, results in an exquisite wine that evolves gracefully with age. The 1999 vintage, in particular, offers a luscious mouthfeel and a long, persistent finish, making it a perfect accompaniment to creamy sauces or aged cheeses.


Goldeneye snapper.

Kama toro (collar). I’m not sure I’ve had this anywhere other than ootoro. This cut is known for its rich, buttery texture and a delicate balance of savory flavors, making it a true delicacy for sushi lovers.

Shirako agodashi is a delightful dish that showcases the delicate flavors of cod milt, served in a savory dashi broth. The silky texture of the shirako contrasts beautifully with the umami-rich broth, creating a comforting and unique experience that is both intriguing and satisfying.

Saba (Japanese mackerel) with crispy nori is a delightful dish that showcases the rich, buttery flavor of the fish, complemented by the satisfying crunch of the nori. The combination creates a beautiful contrast in texture, making each bite a pleasure.

Sardine shiso roll is a delightful fusion of flavors, marrying the rich, umami taste of sardines with the refreshing, herbaceous notes of shiso. The roll presents a vibrant appearance, with the deep green shiso leaves wrapping around the succulent sardine, creating a harmonious balance of textures and tastes that is both satisfying and invigorating.


Sardine.

The 2008 Meursault from Domaine Coche-Dury, hailing from the prestigious Burgundy region, showcases the elegance and complexity that this producer is renowned for. This Chardonnay presents a rich bouquet of ripe pear and toasted hazelnuts, interlaced with a vibrant minerality. With its lush texture and refreshing acidity, it pairs beautifully with roasted chicken or creamy risottos, enhancing the dish’s flavors while offering a delightful contrast.

Each sip reveals layers of flavor, with hints of citrus and a subtle touch of oak, reflecting the meticulous craftsmanship of Coche-Dury. This vintage is particularly noteworthy for its balance and finesse, making it an excellent companion for dishes like lobster with butter sauce or a classic Coq au Vin.


Scallop.

Baby sea eel.

Belt fish.

Ikura and Uni are a delightful pairing that showcases the ocean’s bounty. The briny burst of the ikura, or salmon roe, contrasts beautifully with the creamy, buttery richness of the uni, or sea urchin. Together, they create a luxurious experience that is both visually stunning and decadently flavorful.

Tamago is a delicate Japanese omelet, often served in sushi or as a standalone dish. Its soft, slightly sweet layers are expertly folded, creating a beautiful golden hue that is both visually appealing and satisfying to the palate. The balance of flavor and texture makes it a beloved staple in Japanese cuisine.

Yuzu spritz is a refreshing cocktail that beautifully balances the bright, citrusy notes of yuzu with a crisp effervescence. Its vibrant appearance and zesty flavor make it a delightful choice for warm days, offering a unique twist on the classic spritz that invigorates the palate.

Meet our enthusiastic diner, raising a glass to celebrate the exquisite flavors of the evening.

Chef selfie.

This was one incredible lineup of sushi and wine. Wow!

This was totally my style of omakase. It was mostly nigri, with each piece being both distinct and and memorable, almost sublime. The subtle curing, the deft but restrained use of “toppings”, and the assertive rice are all out of this world. It’s expensive. It’s a bit high maintenance. It’s for purists. But it is incredible!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Delightful Danbi

Aug16

Restaurant: Danbi

Location: 3465 W 6th St Suite 90-100, Los Angeles, CA 90020

Date: April 10, 2025

Cuisine: Korean Fusion

Rating: Really delicious, although slightly sweet (and spicy).

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This sort of Korean modern Izakaya is in that popular mall with the Quarters and many other places.

They say of themselves: We wanted to bring our love for modern Korean food and drinking culture to Koreatown, Los Angeles, the epicenter of Korean food in America. Crafted through the lens of first generation Asian Americans living in the U.S…. we’ve worked hard to bring an idea to life.


That sense of balance extends to the 1,000-square-foot interior, a rain-washed tableau of blond birch, charcoal concrete, and a waterfall marble counter. Floor-to-ceiling windows bathe communal tables and a recessed seating pit in soft daylight, while a carefully curated vinyl soundtrack adds warmth once the sun dips behind the Wilshire corridor. In a neighborhood already crowded with 24-hour diners, boba shops, and old-school bakeries, Danbi has quickly carved out a niche.


The menu at Danbi features a creative selection of Korean-inspired dishes, emphasizing bold flavors and unique combinations. Highlights include innovative takes on traditional ingredients, showcasing a blend of comfort and contemporary culinary techniques.

Wines tonight.

Crudo. Red snapper, pear jam, kosho vinaigrette. Very zingy and spicy sweet. The delicate texture of the fish contrasts beautifully with the vibrant, fruity jam, creating a refreshing dish that dances on the palate.

Scallop pancake: baby scallops, mentaiko sauce. This fabulous pancake is delightfully crispy, though quite fried, offering a rich, savory flavor that beautifully complements the tender scallops within.


A refreshing ice.

Uni bibimbap features the delicate richness of uni paired with marinated Korean raw shrimp, creating a delightful interplay of flavors. The dish is visually stunning, with vibrant colors and textures that invite you to dive in. Each bite offers a luxurious creaminess balanced by the fresh, briny notes of the seafood.

Sliced pork jowl is served with Korean pear and house red sauce. Super tender and flavorful, the rich, unctuous meat contrasts beautifully with the crisp, refreshing sweetness of the pear, creating a delightful balance of textures and flavors.


Various condiments.

Spicy Japchae: Shrimp and scallop infused chili oil create a delightful balance of flavors. Actually moderately spicy (and sweet), this dish offers a satisfying chew from the noodles and a vibrant appearance that entices the palate.

Tartare: Bone marrow, burdock, egg, pine nut. This dish presents a rich, unctuous texture from the bone marrow, complemented by the earthy crunch of burdock and the creamy yolk of the egg. The pine nuts add a delightful nuttiness, creating a harmonious balance of flavors that is both luxurious and intriguing.

Extremely sweet—but delicious.

Perilla cold noodles are a refreshing dish featuring crisp cucumber, savory gim, and crunchy radish. Deliciously chilled, these noodles offer a delightful contrast of textures and a subtle, herbaceous flavor that makes them perfect for warm days.

Zabuton is charcoal-cooked wagyu that is super rich. The tender, marbled meat melts in your mouth, offering a luxurious umami experience that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Garlic rice is a simple yet flavorful dish that elevates any meal with its aromatic essence. The fluffy grains are infused with the rich, savory notes of garlic, creating a delightful contrast in texture and a satisfying depth of flavor that lingers on the palate.


Condiments.

Pork broth rice soup features tender jowl and fresh scallions, creating a comforting and savory dish. The rich, aromatic broth envelops the rice, offering a delightful balance of textures and flavors that warms the soul.

Really delicious, although slightly sweet (and spicy).

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Hmmm Cipppriani

Aug14

Restaurant: Cipriani Beverly Hills

Location: 362 N Camden Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 424-4247

Date: March 31, 2025

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Weirdly old school

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Cipriani Beverly Hills, which welcomed its first guests in late 2023, is the West Coast flagship of the storied Cipriani family, custodians of Venetian hospitality since Giuseppe Cipriani Sr. opened Harry’s Bar on the Grand Canal in 1931. Still family-owned and steered today by fourth-generation brothers Ignazio and Maggio Cipriani, the Beverly Hills address transplants that lineage of understated glamour to 362 North Camden Drive. The menu hews to the group’s enduring culinary philosophy: impeccable ingredients handled with restraint and respect. Signature Cipriani staples—paper-thin beef carpaccio dressed with the original 1950s sauce, feather-light baked tagliolini with ham, and the white-peach Bellini—anchor a roster of seasonal pastas, crudos, and grilled meats that favor clarity of flavor over culinary theatrics.
Cippriani is a branch of or somehow related to the famous Venetian Cafe “Harry’s Bar.” As such, it’s very much Italian with an international 1930s vibe.


The menu at Cipriani Beverly Hills features a refined selection of Italian-inspired dishes, emphasizing fresh ingredients and classic preparations. Highlights include elegant antipasti like Carpaccio and a variety of salads, alongside main courses such as grilled sea scallops and deep-fried Dover sole, reflecting a commitment to high-quality, sophisticated cuisine.

Our wines.

Bread.

Carpaccio “Alla Cipriani”. Simple yet elegant, this dish features thinly sliced raw beef, drizzled with a light dressing that enhances its natural flavors. The tender texture and vibrant presentation make it a delightful starter, showcasing the beauty of high-quality ingredients.

Steak Tartare. Very old school. Good and beefy, but very simple. This classic dish features finely chopped raw beef, often seasoned with capers and onions, creating a rich, tender texture that melts in your mouth.


Crisps for the meat.

Cipriani Tagliardi with Veal Ragu is pretty much old school. This dish features tender, hand-rolled pasta enveloped in a rich, savory veal ragu that evokes a sense of nostalgia. The harmonious blend of flavors and textures makes it a comforting classic that never goes out of style.

Baked White Tagliolini with Praga Ham is sort of an angel hair version of adult mac and cheese. Great flavor, creamy texture, but the portion is small.

Wild Argentinian Shrimp “al Curry” served with yellow rice. Kinda interesting. Good, but slightly weird and British. The shrimp are tender and succulent, enveloped in a fragrant curry that offers a delightful balance of spices, while the yellow rice adds a vibrant touch to the plate.


Plated.

The yellow rice is a vibrant dish that captures the essence of comfort food. Its fluffy grains are infused with spices, offering a warm, aromatic flavor that pairs beautifully with a variety of proteins. The bright color and inviting aroma make it a delightful addition to any meal.

Chutney for the shrimp is a delightful accompaniment that enhances the dish with its vibrant flavors. The tangy and slightly sweet notes of the chutney perfectly complement the succulent shrimp, adding a refreshing contrast to their tender texture.

Veal Milanese. Unfortunately, it was too dry for my taste, lacking the juicy tenderness that makes this classic dish shine. Ideally, it should feature a golden, crispy crust that encases succulent meat, offering a delightful contrast in texture.


Arugula salad helped “moisten it.”

Dessert menu.

Tiramisu. Overall, while very Beverly Hills, Cipriani is a bit too old school to blow me away. Expensive, and good execution, but a bit “bland.” This classic Italian dessert features layers of coffee-soaked ladyfingers and rich mascarpone, offering a creamy texture that contrasts with its subtle sweetness.

A very peculiar style of old school Italian. Not nearly as good as other newcomers to the area like Stella, Marea, or Alba.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Marea Beverly Hills

Aug10

Restaurant: Marea

Location: 430 N Camden Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. *unknown*

Date: March 6 & May 12, 2025

Cuisine: Coastal Italian

Chef: Sofia Morales

Rating: Fabulous

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Marea opened its doors on North Camden Drive in the summer of 2022, the brainchild of Milan-born restaurateur Luca D’Ambrosi and executive chef Sofia Morales, who met while staging on the Ligurian coast. Determined to translate the pleasure of an unhurried seaside lunch into an urban California setting, the partners took over a long-vacant art-deco storefront and stripped it down to the studs, installing a glass-fronted raw-bar, driftwood banquettes and a ceiling painted a soft Adriatic blue. Ownership remains tightly held—D’Ambrosi and Morales personally greet regulars most nights—and their menu stays loyal to the Italian idea that the sea should taste like itself: Santa Barbara uni folded into warm polenta, line-caught branzino roasted with nothing more than lemon leaves, and a short list of handmade pastas finished tableside in copper pans. The beverage program, run by sommelier Reggie Kim, leans into coastal Vermentino and skin-contact Malvasia while nodding to California with small-lot Santa Ynez whites.

In a neighborhood better known for power-steakhouses and monolithic luxury brands, Marea’s light-on-its-feet elegance has filled a conspicuous void, becoming a magnet for both studio executives who crave something brighter than a rib-eye and local families strolling the Golden Triangle. Critics from the L.A. Times and Eater LA praised its “sunlit Mediterranean confidence,” and the restaurant made the Michelin Guide’s “new discovery” list within its first year. Evening service hums beneath Murano glass pendants, yet the vibe stays relaxed—bare table tops, playlists that wander from Paolo Conte to Khruangbin, and open windows that let in the jasmine-scented canyon breeze. Marea has quickly staked a claim as Beverly Hills’ essential seafood counterpoint: rooted in Italian tradition, fueled by California produce, and animated by a hospitality style that makes even a Tuesday dinner feel like vacation.


Fancy transplant from New York.

Chef Sofia Morales brings a vividly coastal, cross-cultural voice to Marea Beverly Hills, the airy, marigold-toned outpost of the famed New York seafood temple. Born in Ensenada, Mexico, and raised between San Diego and Baja, Morales earned her culinary degree at the CIA in Hyde Park before honing finesse and discipline at Daniel Boulud’s kitchen in Manhattan, staging at Noma in Copenhagen, and later serving as chef de cuisine at Enrique Olvera’s Cosme. At Marea she synthesizes that résumé—French technique, Nordic seasonality, and modern Mexican vibrancy—with the restaurant’s Italian seafood DNA. Her crudo of kampachi with yuzu kosho aguachile and bronze-dye spaghetti alla chitarra tossed in a uni-jalapeño bottarga emulsion have quickly become signatures, earning her a 2023 James Beard “Rising Star” nomination and a spot on the Los Angeles Times’ “Chef Power List.”

Morales’s menu philosophy is rooted in “borderless waters”—treating the Pacific and Mediterranean as one continuous pantry while respecting the ecological realities of both. She sources hook-and-line local rockfish from Santa Barbara, partners with Baja oyster farms, and finishes plates with Ligurian olive oil or house-fermented chile vinegar depending on what each ingredient “asks for.” Influenced by her grandmother’s Baja surf-side grilling, René Redzepi’s micro-seasonal mindset, and the refined simplicity of Italian cucina di mare, she aims for “immaculate product, precise restraint, and one unexpected note that makes you look up from the table.” The result is a menu that feels both sun-bleached and metropolitan—a confident through-line that has helped the Beverly Hills location carve its own identity while honoring Marea’s original ethos of elegant, seafood-first hospitality.


The menu at Marea features a refined selection of seafood dishes, emphasizing fresh ingredients and Italian culinary techniques. Highlights include caviar, oysters, and a variety of crudi, as well as thoughtfully crafted antipasti that celebrate the flavors of the sea.


Marea also has an awesome private room, which we visited in May. 
The wines in March 2025.

A dozen kumamoto oysters served with marea mignonette & marea cocktail sauce. These briny gems are known for their sweet, buttery flavor and creamy texture, making them a delightful treat for any seafood lover.

Scampi on “Scampi”: langoustine tartare, crispy rice, garlic, lemon. This dish presents a delightful contrast of textures, with the tender tartare complemented by the crunch of the rice. Ricci: sea urchin, lardo, crostini. The richness of the lardo enhances the briny sea urchin, creating a luxurious mouthfeel. Sardina: sardine, tomato, eggplant, anchovy, pine nut toast. The combination of savory sardines and sweet tomato on a crunchy toast is both comforting and sophisticated. These were all great.

Bread.

CANNOLICCHIO features razor clam, manila clam, prosciutto, and fennel. The dish showcases a delightful balance of briny sweetness from the clams, complemented by the savory richness of prosciutto and the aromatic freshness of fennel, creating a harmonious blend of textures and flavors.

 

Scampi: Pacific langoustine, cucumber, chive. This dish showcases the delicate sweetness of the langoustine, complemented by the refreshing crunch of cucumber and the subtle onion notes of chive, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures.

SGOMBRO: mackerel, tomato, Castelvetrano, caper. This dish presents a delightful balance of rich, oily mackerel paired with the bright acidity of tomato and the briny pop of capers, all enhanced by the sweet, buttery notes of Castelvetrano olives. The vibrant colors and fresh ingredients make it as visually appealing as it is flavorful.

A full set of crudos: Scorfano — Rockfish, calamansi, pistachio. Spigola — Bass, almond crema, green almond, caviar. Ricciola — Baja kanpachi, strawberry, tarragon, fennel. Sgombro — Smoked mackerel, blackberry, lardo. Tonno — Yellowfin tuna, oyster crema, artichoke. Scampi — Pacific langoustine, cucumber, chive. Each dish presents a vibrant array of colors and textures, showcasing the freshness of the seafood paired with bright, complementary flavors that dance on the palate.

BRANZINO: sea bass tartare, pistachio, Calabrian chile, radish, chive. This dish presents a delightful combination of flavors and textures, with the buttery fish complemented by the crunch of pistachios and the heat of chiles. The vibrant colors and fresh ingredients make it as visually appealing as it is delicious.

Fusilli: red wine-braised octopus and bone marrow. Lots of deep flavor and good chew, with the octopus offering a tender yet slightly firm bite, complemented by the rich, unctuous marrow that adds a luxurious depth to each twirl of pasta.

MARUBINI: ricotta-filled ravioli with cacio e pepe, tomato, basil, and pine nuts. The delicate pasta envelopes a creamy filling, while the cacio e pepe offers a delightful peppery kick. Nice, but not as amazing as the others.

RISOTTO AI FUNGHI features wild mushrooms, taleggio, and parmigiano. This amazing risotto boasts a creamy texture, with earthy mushroom flavors beautifully complemented by the rich, nutty cheese. A comforting dish that warms the soul.

Risotto alla Primavera — Spring vegetables, pancetta, parmigiano. This vibrant dish showcases a creamy texture, with the fresh crunch of seasonal vegetables beautifully complementing the savory richness of the pancetta and the nutty depth of the parmigiano. Each bite is a celebration of spring’s bounty.

CASARECCE: jumbo lump crab, sea urchin, basil, Calabrian chile. The nice texture is complemented by the rich sweetness of the crab and the briny depth of the sea urchin, creating a delightful harmony of flavors. The dish presents beautifully, with vibrant colors that invite you to indulge.

PAPPARDELLE: Dungeness crab, scallion, tarragon. Really great crab pasta, tons of buttery flavor. The pappardelle is perfectly al dente, allowing the rich, sweet crab to shine through, while the scallion and tarragon add a fresh, aromatic lift.

Mafaldine — Shrimp, garlic, lemon, parsley, mollica. This dish features delicate, ribbon-like pasta that beautifully captures the vibrant flavors of the shrimp and the brightness of the lemon. The combination of textures—from the tender shrimp to the crispy mollica—creates a delightful contrast that elevates each bite.

Spaghetti features Manila clam, baby leek, lemon, and parsley. This dish offers a delightful balance of briny sweetness from the clams, vibrant freshness from the leeks and parsley, and a zesty brightness from the lemon, all harmonizing beautifully with the al dente pasta.

Orecchiette — Duck leg ragu, brown butter, pea shoot. This dish features tender, ear-shaped pasta that perfectly cradles the rich, savory ragu, while the brown butter adds a nutty depth and the pea shoots offer a fresh, vibrant contrast. The combination is both comforting and sophisticated, showcasing the beauty of Italian cuisine.

ANATRA features pan-roasted duck breast accompanied by parsnip, endive, orange, and duck jus. The sweet jus beautifully complements the rich, tender duck, while the parsnip adds a creamy texture and the endive provides a crisp contrast. A harmonious balance of flavors and textures makes this dish truly memorable.

BISTECCA: grilled wagyu strip loin, bone marrow panzanella, braised lettuce, shallot. Very solid steak. The wagyu is beautifully marbled, delivering a rich, buttery flavor, while the bone marrow panzanella adds a delightful creaminess and texture contrast.

Tomahawk — Grilled 40 oz prime ribeye, little gem, bone marrow panzanella. This impressive cut boasts a rich, juicy flavor with a perfect char, while the panzanella adds a refreshing crunch that beautifully complements the meat’s tenderness.

Tunahawk — Bigeye tuna loin, cauliflower salsa rossa, choice of one side. This dish showcases a beautifully seared tuna, its rich, buttery texture perfectly complemented by the vibrant, tangy salsa rossa. The combination is not only visually striking but also a delightful balance of flavors that excites the palate.

Sogliola — Pan-seared wild Dover sole, choice of one side, limone. This dish showcases the delicate, flaky texture of the fish, perfectly complemented by the bright acidity of lemon. The simplicity of the preparation allows the natural flavors to shine through, making it a delightful choice for seafood lovers.

CAVOLFIORE: flowering cauliflower, chile, bottarga. This dish boasts a delightful balance of flavors, with the heat of the chile complementing the umami richness of the bottarga. The texture is both tender and slightly crisp, making it a satisfying experience.

Topinambur — Sunchoke, mostarda, spinach. This dish beautifully balances the earthy sweetness of the sunchoke with the tangy brightness of the mostarda, while the spinach adds a vibrant green touch. The textures are delightful, with the sunchoke offering a tender bite that complements the smoothness of the mostarda.

Carciofi alla Giudia — Artichoke, anchovy, oregano, parsley, mint. This Roman classic features artichokes that are fried to a golden crisp, offering a delightful contrast between the tender heart and the crunchy exterior. The vibrant herbs and anchovy add depth, making each bite a harmonious blend of flavors that celebrates the essence of Italian cuisine.

Asparago — Grilled asparagus, pistachio, meyer lemon. The tender, charred spears offer a delightful contrast to the crunchy pistachios, while the meyer lemon adds a bright, citrusy zing that elevates the dish beautifully.

Patate — Potato, mimolette, caper. This dish features tender, creamy potatoes that beautifully complement the nutty richness of mimolette, while the capers add a delightful briny contrast. The combination creates a harmonious balance of flavors and textures that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Piselli a Shiocco — Snap pea, chile, bottarga, mint. This vibrant dish showcases the sweetness of fresh snap peas, perfectly complemented by the umami of bottarga and a hint of heat from the chile. The bright mint adds a refreshing finish, making it a delightful balance of flavors and textures.


Desert menu.

Coffee martini is a delightful blend of rich espresso and smooth vodka, creating a perfect balance of bold coffee flavor and a hint of sweetness. Its velvety texture and elegant presentation make it an ideal choice for those seeking a sophisticated pick-me-up.

Presented with an artful flourish, the dish known as Cheese Tasting Plate captivates the senses with its harmonious array of textures and flavors. A delicate pale yellow cheese, its creamy consistency invitingly soft, sits alongside a vibrant orange-hued cheddar, its sharpness balanced by a hint of sweetness. Golden honeycomb glistens like sunlit jewels, its floral notes wafting delicately through the air, complemented by the earthy crunch of walnuts that ground the composition. Tiny green grapes burst with refreshing juiciness, while a small silver cup cradles a velvety, well-aged cheese spread adorned with edible flowers, offering a subtle umami depth that lingers on the palate. Each element, a testament to culinary artistry, invites exploration and indulgence in a symphony of flavors.

BOMBOLONI: doughnuts filled with lemon ricotta cream, dusted with cinnamon sugar, and drizzled with chocolate fudge. These delightful treats boast a light, airy texture that contrasts beautifully with the creamy filling, while the cinnamon sugar adds a warm sweetness, making them utterly irresistible.

TIRAMISU: mascarpone mousse, espresso sabayon, chocolate crumble, mascarpone gelato. Not conventional, but very good. This dessert offers a delightful contrast of creamy textures and rich coffee flavors, all beautifully layered and finished with a hint of chocolate crunch.

NOCE DI COCCO features a delightful combination of meringue, coconut, passion fruit, pineapple, and rum. This dessert offers a light, airy texture with tropical flavors that dance on the palate, creating a vibrant and refreshing experience.

Gelato is a delightful Italian frozen dessert that captivates with its creamy texture and intense flavors. Unlike traditional ice cream, gelato is churned at a slower speed, resulting in a denser, silkier consistency that allows the vibrant flavors to shine. Each scoop is a luscious experience, often showcasing seasonal ingredients that reflect the region’s bounty.


Expensive, but some really great food. Unusual heavy seafood focus, too.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

 


Marea has an awesome private room.

The restaurant’s understated elegance is reflected in the meticulous arrangement of crystal wine glasses, their clarity catching the soft ambient light, setting a refined yet inviting tone for an unforgettable culinary journey.

The menu at Marea showcases an exquisite selection of seafood dishes, emphasizing fresh ingredients and refined Italian flavors. Highlights include caviar, oysters, and a variety of antipasti, alongside beautifully crafted pasta and crudo preparations that celebrate the ocean’s bounty.


The menu.

The Pierre Peters Champagne, a stunning Blanc de Blancs from the Côte de Blancs region, showcases the elegance of the 2016 vintage. With its bright acidity and fine bubbles, this wine offers a bouquet of citrus and white flowers, complemented by a hint of brioche. Ideal for pairing with oysters or a delicate seafood dish, it elevates any celebration with its finesse and complexity.

The Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Premier Cru from the 2017 vintage presents a rich yet refreshing profile, typical of the Burgundy region. This Chardonnay boasts notes of ripe stone fruits, hazelnuts, and a subtle minerality, making it a versatile companion for roasted chicken or creamy pasta dishes. Its balanced structure invites you to savor each sip, revealing layers of flavor with every taste.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin Premier Cru “En Remilly” from Jean-Claude Ramonet offers a delightful expression of its terroir, showcasing bright acidity and notes of citrus and green apple, complemented by a mineral backbone. This elegant white Burgundy pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a creamy risotto.

The 2010 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Bonneau du Martray is a magnificent white wine that reveals layers of complexity, with rich flavors of ripe pear, toasted almonds, and a hint of oak. Its full-bodied structure and vibrant acidity make it an exceptional companion for rich dishes like lobster thermidor or roasted chicken with herbs.

From the esteemed Côte-Rôtie region, the 1970 La Moulin offers a stunning expression of Syrah, showcasing dark fruit, black olive, and subtle smoky notes. Its age has imparted a velvety texture and complex layers of dried herbs and leather, making it a perfect companion for roasted lamb or a hearty beef stew.

The second 1970 La Moulin bottle presents an intriguing balance of fruit and earthiness, with hints of graphite and wildflowers emerging. The tannins are beautifully integrated, providing a luxurious mouthfeel that complements rich dishes like duck confit or grilled game meats, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The 1970 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline is a stunning expression of the Northern Rhône, showcasing the elegance of Syrah. With its deep garnet hue, it unfolds aromas of dark fruits, smoked meat, and a hint of violet. On the palate, it offers a harmonious balance of ripe tannins and vibrant acidity, making it an exceptional pairing for grilled lamb or a rich, herb-crusted beef dish.

The 1971 vintage of Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline presents a slightly more mature profile, revealing complex layers of dried cherries, black olives, and a touch of aged leather. Its silky texture and refined structure allow it to shine alongside roasted duck or a wild mushroom risotto, enhancing the earthy flavors of the dish.

The 1974 Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin is a stunning example of Northern Rhône Syrah, showcasing deep, complex aromas of dark fruits, smoke, and savory herbs. Its velvety tannins and vibrant acidity make it a perfect companion to rich lamb dishes or a charcuterie board featuring aged cheeses.

The 1977 vintage of Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin offers a remarkable bouquet of dried cherries, leather, and earthy undertones, reflecting the elegance of its terroir. This wine’s silky texture and lingering finish pair effortlessly with grilled meats or a hearty beef stew, enhancing the meal’s depth.

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin presents a fascinating evolution, revealing notes of blackcurrant, graphite, and subtle spice. Its refined structure and balanced acidity make it an ideal match for game meats or mushroom risotto,

The 1971 Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal is a breathtaking expression of the Northern Rhône, showcasing deep, complex aromas of dark fruit, leather, and subtle spice. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity harmonize beautifully, making it a perfect companion for a rich beef stew or grilled lamb.

The 1980 vintage of Côte-Rôtie, also from E. Guigal, presents a more evolved profile, with notes of dried herbs, plum, and a hint of smokiness. The elegance and depth of flavor make it an exquisite pairing with game dishes or a charcuterie board featuring aged cheeses.

The 1981 Côte-Rôtie continues the legacy of the previous bottles, offering luscious dark cherry, earthy undertones, and a touch of oak. This vintage is well-structured and pairs wonderfully with hearty dishes like coq au vin

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline is a stunning expression of the Rhône Valley, showcasing a blend of Syrah and Viognier. This vintage reveals deep, complex aromas of blackberries, smoked meat, and hints of violets, complemented by a silky texture that enhances its elegance. It pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a rich duck confit, highlighting the wine’s earthy undertones.

The 1981 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline offers a slightly more mature profile, with savory notes of truffle and leather emerging alongside dark fruit and spice. This vintage displays a beautifully integrated tannin structure, providing a long, lingering finish. Ideal for pairing with hearty stews or aged cheeses, it brings out the wine’s complexity and depth.

<pTogether, these Côte-Rôties from La Mouline epitomize the artistry of the

The 1981 La Mouline from Côte-Rôtie is a stunning example of Syrah’s elegance, showcasing deep, dark fruit flavors intertwined with hints of smoke and leather. With its velvety tannins and a long, complex finish, this wine pairs beautifully with rich, slow-cooked lamb dishes or a decadent truffle risotto.

The 1983 La Mouline, also from Côte-Rôtie, offers a more robust profile, featuring concentrated notes of blackberries, plums, and a touch of pepper. Its powerful structure and vibrant acidity make it an excellent companion to grilled meats or hearty stews, highlighting its aging potential and complexity.

The 1981 and 1983 vintages reflect the exceptional terroir of Côte-Rôtie, presenting a delightful exploration of Syrah’s versatility, from the graceful finesse of the 198

The 1984 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline showcases the legendary character of this Northern Rhône region. With its deep garnet hue, it presents an enticing bouquet of blackberries, violets, and a hint of smoked meat. The wine’s full-bodied structure is complemented by velvety tannins and a long finish, making it an exquisite pairing for grilled lamb or a rich coq au vin.

The 1987 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline offers a captivating profile, marked by ripe red fruits, spice, and a touch of garrigue. This vintage reveals a delightful balance of acidity and tannin, providing a silky mouthfeel. Its complexity makes it an excellent companion to dishes like duck confit or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the meal’s depth.

The 1984 La Mouline from E. Guigal, hailing from the renowned Côte-Rôtie region of France, showcases an elegant expression of Syrah blended with a touch of Viognier. This vintage is characterized by its complex aromas of dark fruits, black olive, and floral notes, underpinned by a silky texture and refined tannins. It pairs beautifully with rich dishes like coq au vin or a classic beef bourguignon.

The 1987 La Mouline, also from E. Guigal, offers a slightly warmer profile with ripe blackberry and plum flavors complemented by hints of spice and smoke. This vintage shows impressive balance and depth, making it an ideal companion to grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the dish’s earthy flavors.

The 1980 La Landonne, another gem from E. Guigal, presents

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Landonne offers a complex tapestry of aromas, with notes of dark berries, smoked meats, and a hint of black pepper. This vintage showcases the elegance and depth of the Rhône Valley, with a velvety texture and a long, satisfying finish. Ideal for pairing with grilled lamb or rich stews, it embodies the essence of classic Syrah.

The 1984 Côte-Rôtie, also from La Landonne, presents a more mature profile, with tertiary notes of leather, tobacco, and dried herbs complementing the residual fruit. The tannins have softened beautifully, allowing for a harmonious balance between acidity and richness. This vintage pairs wonderfully with aged cheeses or a hearty beef bourguignon, making it a timeless choice for discerning palates.

The 1980 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal showcases the elegance of the Northern Rhône, revealing rich notes of dark berries, leather, and a hint of tar. Its age has imparted a smoky complexity, making it a perfect companion for grilled lamb or a rich duck confit, enhancing its savory character.

The 1984 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie is a stunning expression of terroir, offering aromas of black cherry, violets, and a touch of spice. This vintage demonstrates a well-integrated acidity and soft tannins, ideal for pairing with hearty dishes like beef bourguignon or wild mushroom risotto, which complement its intricate layers.

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, with its robust structure and vibrant fruit, presents an enticing bouquet of dark plums, pepper, and earthiness.

The 1984 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie showcases an elegant balance between rich dark fruit and savory notes. Hailing from the Northern Rhône, this Syrah expresses complexity through layers of blackcurrant, leather, and hints of smokiness. Ideal for pairing with grilled lamb or robust stews, it offers a splendid dining experience.

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie presents a more mature profile, with secondary aromas of dried herbs and earthy undertones complementing its rich, ripe plum flavors. This vintage is a testament to the terroir of the Rhône, beautifully reflecting its character. Best enjoyed alongside rich game dishes or aged cheeses, it promises a harmonious match.

The 1986 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie features a vibrant acidity that accentuates its dark fruit core and peppery finish. This vintage reveals nuances of spice and

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, produced by the esteemed E. Guigal in the northern Rhône Valley, showcases a remarkable vintage with its deep garnet hue and complex aromas of dark fruits, smoke, and spices. This Syrah-based wine is full-bodied and elegantly structured, offering velvety tannins and a long, savory finish, making it an exquisite pairing for rich dishes like braised lamb or beef Wellington.

The 1986 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, also crafted by E. Guigal, presents a slightly more mature profile, revealing layers of black cherry, leather, and earthy notes. This vintage balances power and finesse, with a silky texture that complements its ripe tannins. Ideal for pairing with hearty game dishes or aged cheeses, it embodies the artistry of Côte-Rôtie wines.


All the La La’s!

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Late-night Baroo

Aug08

Restaurant: Baroo

Location: 905 E 2nd St #110, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 221-7299

Date: March 4, 2025

Cuisine: Modern Korean

Chef: Kwang Uh

Rating: Very unique and tasty

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Baroo first appeared in 2015 as a minuscule, almost monastic strip-mall café in East Hollywood, where Korean-born, Noma-trained chef Kwang Uh mesmerized diners with grain bowls, house-cultured vinegars, and kimchi that tasted like nothing else in Los Angeles. When that original location closed in 2018, its cult following never stopped talking about it. In late 2022 the chef returned—this time with co-owner and fellow chef Mina Park—to open a more polished, reservation-only incarnation at 905 E 2nd St #110 in the Arts District. The reborn Baroo keeps its staff intentionally lean and its counter seating limited, sustaining the intimate dialogue between cook and guest that made the first chapter so magnetic.

Fermentation remains the restaurant’s heartbeat, but the new Baroo stretches further, running a seasonal tasting menu that filters Korean flavors through Californian produce and European technique. A plate might pair koji-aged spot prawn with a delicate chrysanthemum broth, or present a barley-risotto riff enriched with doenjang and shaved truffles; an almost sake-dry makgeolli or a low-intervention Rhone white might sit alongside. The room mirrors the food: spare yet warm, with blond wood, softly rounded plaster walls, and a U-shaped counter that frames the open kitchen like a stage set. In a neighborhood already thick with destination dining, Baroo stands out as both laboratory and temple, reaffirming Los Angeles’ status as one of the most adventurous fermentation capitals in the country.

With its warm brick façade and sleek glass entry, the restaurant exudes a modern yet inviting charm, inviting diners to indulge in a sophisticated culinary journey amidst thoughtfully curated decor that balances industrial elements with cozy accents.

Chef Kwang Uh, the quietly cerebral force behind baroo in DTLA’s ROW complex, has followed an unconventional path to one of the city’s most talked-about kitchens. Born in Seoul and raised partly in Southern California, he began cooking professionally after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, but it was a string of formative stages that shaped his voice: the meticulous kaiseki precision of L.A.’s Urasawa, the ingredient-driven ethos of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and—most decisively—a year inside the Nordic Food Lab and fermentation studio of Noma in Copenhagen. Uh later decamped to the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy, and spent months cooking in Korean Buddhist temples, absorbing the ascetic, zero-waste discipline of temple cuisine. Those experiences fused into the original Baroo, a bare-bones Hollywood strip-mall deli that landed on Bon Appétit’s “Hot 10,” earned a James Beard Rising Star semifinalist nod, and became a cult shrine for chefs before shuttering in 2018. The 2023 rebirth as lowercase baroo, now in partnership with Mina Park, retains the spirit of the original but adds the polish of an open-kitchen tasting-counter.

Uh’s food defies genre labels yet feels deeply Korean at its core: rice milled in-house and seasoned with nuruk, sauces built on long-aged jang, and a restless roster of kimchi, garums, kombuchas, and koji that thread through a seasonal eight-course menu. One course might pair Santa Barbara uni with makgeolli-lees sabayon and puffed black rice; another might reinterpret jjajangmyeon as hand-pulled noodles glazed in black-bean koji and chrysanthemum oil. Influence comes from everywhere—Nordic preservation, Californian produce, Italian pasta craft—but is filtered through the Buddhist notion of “Baroo,” a monk’s simple wooden bowl that symbolizes sufficiency and mindfulness. That philosophy guides the restaurant: respect for living microbes, near-total utilization of each vegetable or fish, and a belief that time, patience, and curiosity are the most potent seasonings. Accolades continue to follow—glowing LA Times reviews, inclusion on the New York Times “America’s Best Restaurants” list—but Uh remains focused on the quiet alchemy happening in the jars that line the back wall, letting fermentation, not fame, chart the next evolution of baroo’s ever-changing menu.

The restaurant’s sleek concrete walls and warm wooden accents create an inviting atmosphere, while the soft glow of pendant lights and carefully curated shelves of artisanal goods set the stage for a culinary journey that feels both intimate and refined.

The menu at Baroo showcases a creative fusion of Korean flavors and contemporary culinary techniques, featuring dishes like celeriac puree with black sesame and lobster tuigim. It emphasizes innovative pairings, such as soy-braised black cod and unique preparations like pork collar ssam, highlighting both traditional and modern influences.

Pig ear – like amuse.

Another amuse of tomato, basil, and toast. Very interesting flavors.

태 — 胎 — TAE is a bridge over field and paddy, featuring a celeriac puree, jokpyeon, and black sesame sool bbang. The dish beautifully balances earthy flavors with a creamy texture, while the jokpyeon adds a delightful chewiness that complements the smooth puree.

양 — 養 — YANG is a lotus flower in the mud, featuring jaetbangeo, achobak, jaepi oil, sangchu, and gim bugak. This dish beautifully contrasts the delicate, earthy flavors of the lotus with the crispness of the vegetables, creating a harmonious balance that is both visually striking and texturally intriguing.

생 — 生 — SAENG life begins with lobster tuigim (deep-fried in parae seaweed batter) and lobster doenjang. The crispy, golden exterior of the lobster tuigim contrasts beautifully with the tender, succulent meat inside, while the rich, savory lobster doenjang adds a depth of flavor that elevates the dish. Each bite is a delightful harmony of textures and tastes, celebrating the ocean’s bounty.

 

Gratuitous zooms.

대 — 帶 — DAE is sometimes nomadic soy-braised black cod, a dish that beautifully marries rich umami flavors with a tender, flaky texture. The deep, glossy glaze adds an inviting sheen, making it as visually appealing as it is delicious.

Erick in the house.

왕 — 旺 — WANG remains in between peads & barnett pork collar ssam and brandt beef short rib ssam. The pork collar ssam offers a tender, juicy bite with a rich, savory flavor, while the beef short rib ssam is deeply flavorful, boasting a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Both dishes showcase a delightful balance of freshness and umami, making them a must-try.

Close up of the meat duo.

Veggies.

병 — 病 — BYUNG finally realizes? San namul bab, kkaetnip jangajji, gamtae bugak. This dish showcases a delightful balance of textures, with the crispness of the pickled vegetables complementing the tender rice, while the flavors burst with freshness and a hint of umami. Each component harmonizes beautifully, reflecting the essence of Korean cuisine.

절 — 絶 — JEOL is a delightful dessert that combines banana, kiwi, and hazelnut in a refreshing bingsoo. The vibrant colors and textures create a visually appealing dish, while the sweet and nutty flavors harmonize beautifully, making it a perfect treat for warm days.

This was a parade of really interesting flavors. Very subtle, unique, and delicious.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Kato 2025 part 1

Aug06

Restaurant: Kato  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 777 S Alameda St #114, Los Angeles, CA 90021. (424) 535-3041

Date: February 27, 2025

Cuisine: Taiwanese

Chef: Jonathan Yao

Rating: Amazing, although pricey

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Kato opened in 2016 as a tiny, 26-seat spot hidden in a Sawtelle strip mall, the passion project of Taiwanese-American chef Jonathan Yao, who was just 25 at the time. Working with virtually no décor budget and a two-person kitchen crew, Yao spun memories of his mother’s cooking and stages at Benu and Cafe Boulud into an elegant, seafood-leaning tasting menu. Word spread quickly; a Michelin star arrived in 2019, Bill Addison named it the Los Angeles Times Restaurant of the Year, and lines formed in a parking lot better known for boba shops. In 2022, Yao and managing partner–wine director Ryan Bailey moved Kato to a dramatic, 80-seat space in ROW DTLA, giving the restaurant the stage its reputation had already earned.

The cooking remains rooted in Taiwanese flavors—pineapple buns transformed into foie gras sandwiches, Hokkaido scallops dressed with housemade fish garum, shaved ice flavored with oolong and longan—yet it now unfolds across a longer, more polished procession that highlights Southern California’s produce and Pacific seafood. Yao’s philosophy is to make the familiar abstractly beautiful but still crave-worthy: umami-rich broths clarified until they sparkle, pork floss reborn as a delicate tuile, fermented condiments used the way classic French kitchens deploy butter. Bailey’s adventurous, largely grower-champagne wine program and a thoughtful zero-proof pairing underscore the restaurant’s fine-dining aspirations while keeping the mood distinctly Angeleno.

Design firm MNDPC framed the new dining room in blond wood, ribbed glass, and matte concrete that echo Taiwanese tea houses as much as DTLA’s industrial bones. An open kitchen anchors the room, and low, warm lighting recaptures the intimacy of the original storefront even as the service has become choreographed and almost seamless. Today, Kato occupies a rare niche in the city’s food scene: a Michelin-starred, Asian-American tasting counter that feels neither fussy nor pretentious, championing immigrant flavors with the ambition of a grand restaurant. For many Angelenos, it is proof that the city’s most exciting fine dining can speak with a distinctly local—and decidedly Taiwanese—accent.
Chef Jonathan Yao was raised in the Taiwanese-American enclave of the San Gabriel Valley, where weekend trips to Arcadia dim-sum parlors and home-cooked Hakka stews quietly formed his culinary DNA. After a short detour studying biology at UC Irvine, he plunged into professional kitchens, staging at Ari Taymor’s Alma in L.A., Corey Lee’s Benu in San Francisco, and even spending time at Noma in Copenhagen to absorb the rigor of modern Nordic technique. Those experiences—equal parts classical precision and boundary-pushing curiosity—set the foundation for Kato, the 28-seat tasting-menu counter he opened in a Sawtelle strip mall in 2016 and later relocated to a far sleeker space at ROW DTLA.

Kato’s cooking is Yao’s very personal dialogue between Taiwan and California. Dishes like aged kanpachi draped in fermented kumquat, silken mapo-tofu dumplings, or rice steamed in chicken fat and finished with shaved bottarga marry the brightness of market produce with the comforting flavors of his mother’s pantry. The stripped-down plating hides obsessive technique—whole fish are dry-aged for umami, sauces are clarified for translucence, and desserts (think winter-melon granita over almond tofu) nod to Taiwanese night-market sweets while maintaining the lightness Angelenos expect. Critics have noticed: Food & Wine named Yao a Best New Chef in 2018; the James Beard Foundation has shortlisted him more than once; and Michelin awarded Kato its first star in 2019 before elevating the restaurant to two stars in the 2023 California guide, making Yao one of the youngest two-star chefs in the country.

Underlying the menu is a philosophy of “memory filtered through seasonality.” Yao begins every new dish by asking what childhood flavor or Taiwanese street snack he wants the guest to recall, then rebuilds it with the ingredients Southern California is giving him that week—Baja uni instead of Typhoon-shelter crab, Harry’s Berries strawberries in place of lychee, local koji to ferment kohlrabi. The goal, he says, is neither nostalgia nor novelty but resonance: food that feels simultaneously intimate and surprising, executed with the restraint, clarity, and quiet confidence that now define Kato’s signature style.

 

 

The 2008 Piper-Heidsieck Rare is a stunning example of a vintage Champagne, showcasing the elegance and complexity that this house is known for. With its fine bubbles and golden hue, it offers aromas of toasted brioche and ripe stone fruits, complemented by a refreshing acidity. Ideal as an aperitif or paired with seafood, this wine elevates any occasion.

Keller’s 2017 Riesling Trocken from Rheinhessen presents a beautifully balanced profile, marked by notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a hint of minerality. This dry Riesling has a vibrant acidity that makes it incredibly food-friendly, perfect for pairing with Asian cuisine or fresh salads, enhancing the dish’s flavors while providing a crisp finish.

The 2006 Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas from Domaine Michelot is a classic representation of Burgundy, embodying the

Run Bing: Red Fife wheat, trout, sudachi. This dish presents a beautiful interplay of textures, with the nutty crunch of the Red Fife wheat complementing the delicate, buttery flakes of the trout. The bright acidity of the sudachi cuts through the richness, adding a refreshing citrus note that lingers on the palate, enhancing the overall experience with its vibrant aroma and visual appeal.

Duo Jiao Yu: Tuna coriander, chili. This dish elegantly combines the tender, buttery texture of the tuna with the vibrant, aromatic punch of coriander and the subtle heat from the chili. The colors dance on the plate, with the rich pink of the fish contrasting beautifully against the fresh green of the herbs, while the fragrance of the spices tantalizes the senses, inviting you to indulge in a delightful culinary experience.

Ji Juan: Scallop, ginger, baby leek. The delicate sweetness of the scallop is beautifully elevated by the zing of ginger, while the tender baby leek adds a subtle earthiness to the dish. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of flavors, with the scallop’s silky texture melting effortlessly on the palate, complemented by the fragrant aroma that wafts through the air, inviting you to savor every moment.

Youitao. Sea urchin, ham, caviar. The delicate sweetness of the sea urchin is beautifully complemented by the savory notes of the ham, while the caviar adds a luxurious brininess. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of rich umami and oceanic freshness, with the vibrant colors inviting an indulgent experience that is as delightful to the eyes as it is to the palate.

Yudu Geng: Custard, caviar, fish maw. The rich, velvety custard serves as a luxurious base, perfectly offset by the briny burst of caviar, while the fish maw adds a subtle, almost ethereal texture that elevates the dish. The interplay of flavors unfolds delicately on the palate, revealing a harmonious balance of sea and cream, with a hint of umami lingering in the air.

Jinsha. Scallop, salted yolk, squash. The delicate sweetness of the scallop harmonizes beautifully with the rich, umami notes of the salted yolk, while the squash adds a subtly earthy undertone. Each bite is a symphony of textures, with the tender scallop yielding to a creamy finish, all beautifully presented in a vibrant palette that entices the senses before the first taste.

Zhou. Abalone, sea urchin, sticky rice. This dish presents a harmonious interplay of flavors, where the tender abalone offers a subtle brininess, perfectly complemented by the creamy richness of the sea urchin. Each bite of the sticky rice introduces a comforting texture, allowing the delicate marine notes to linger on the palate, while the vibrant colors create an enticing visual allure that is equally captivating.


Suancai Yu. Soured Vegetables, Preserved Peppers.

Anchun. Quail, mushroom, black pepper. This dish presents a harmonious blend of earthy mushrooms and the delicate, tender quail, seasoned with a precise touch of black pepper that elevates its rich flavors. The quail’s golden-brown skin glistens, inviting you to savor its juicy succulence, while the umami notes of the mushrooms create a beautifully layered experience, accented by the warm, aromatic scent that lingers in the air.

The dish, crispy quail legs, presents an alluring amber hue, glistening with a lacquered finish that catches the light like a jewel. As it arrives at the table, a subtle, smoky aroma wafts through the air, inviting the senses to explore further. The texture is a delightful contrast; the outer skin crackles with each bite, yielding effortlessly to reveal tender, succulent meat infused with hints of sweet soy and aromatic spices. Each mouthful offers a symphony of flavors, where the rich umami is perfectly balanced by a whisper of citrus zest, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for another taste.

Bao. A delightful steamed bun filled with tender, savory pork and garnished with fresh cilantro. The fluffy, pillowy texture of the bao envelops the rich filling, creating a harmonious contrast with each bite. The subtle sweetness of the bun complements the umami depth of the pork, while the cilantro adds a refreshing brightness that elevates the overall experience. The aroma wafts enticingly, inviting you to savor the intricate layers of flavor and texture in this exquisite dish.

Hongshao Niu: Short rib, tendon, black garlic. The tender short rib melts in your mouth, while the rich tendon adds a luxurious silkiness to each bite. The deep umami of black garlic intertwines beautifully, creating a harmonious balance of savory notes that linger on the palate. Visually stunning, the dish presents a glossy sheen, inviting you to delve into its complex layers of flavor and texture.


Ba Le. Guava, tea, salted plum.

 

Baixiang Guo. Passion fruit, chocolate, buttermilk. This dish presents a delightful interplay of tart and sweet, where the vibrant acidity of the passion fruit harmonizes beautifully with the deep, rich notes of chocolate. The buttermilk adds a creamy, tangy undertone that rounds out the experience, while the visual contrast of the golden fruit against the dark chocolate creates an enticing allure. Each bite is a textural journey, with a luscious mouthfeel that lingers long after the last taste.

Liusha Bao. Cream puff, salted egg, brown sugar. The delicate cream puff offers a sumptuous contrast of textures, with its crisp exterior giving way to a luscious, velvety filling that harmonizes the rich, savory notes of salted egg with the deep, caramelized sweetness of brown sugar. Each bite is a delightful interplay of flavors, evoking a comforting warmth that lingers on the palate, while the golden hue and glossy sheen entice the senses, inviting you to indulge in this exquisite treat.

The 2005 Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas from Domaine Michel Gros showcases the elegance of Burgundy. This Pinot Noir offers a complex bouquet of red fruit, earthiness, and subtle spice, reflecting the region’s terroir. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity make it an exquisite pairing with duck confit or truffle risotto.

This wine, hailing from the prestigious Vosne-Romanée region, embodies the classic characteristics of its vintage. The depth of flavor and structure suggest excellent aging potential, inviting culinary accompaniments such as grilled lamb or mushroom-based dishes to elevate the dining experience.

Kato has just grown and grown!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Fine Fitoor

Aug01

Restaurant: Fitoor

Location: 115 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401. (310) 829-7200

Date: February 7 & March 27, 2025

Cuisine: Indian

Chef: Pawan Mahendro

Rating: Very tasty and bold

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Fitoor opened on the western edge of downtown Santa Monica in late 2023 as the follow-up project from chef-patriarch Pawan Mahendro and his sons Nakul and Arjun, the family behind L.A.’s cult Indian gastropub Badmaash. After a decade of hearing Westsiders ask when they would bring their cooking closer to the beach, the trio took over a soaring former wine bar, christened it with the Urdu word for “burning obsession,” and installed three wood-fired tandoors that give both the room and the food a literal glow. The result is a restaurant whose mission is very Cal-Indian: marry the produce of the nearby farmers market with the smoke, pickles, and spice of the subcontinent, but do it in a way that feels as breezy as the ocean only a few blocks away.

The menu skews seasonal and shareable—think charred delicata squash finished with jaggery and ghee, whole Santa Barbara spot prawns bathed in green-mango achaar butter, and a rotating roster of market vegetables roasted under smoldering embers. Cocktails riff on the same dialogue, folding curry leaves into a gin sour or sandalwood into an agave-forward old-fashioned, while a concise natural-leaning wine list is built to tame chilies and smoke. Designer Bells & Whistles wrapped the 90-seat room in peacock-blue banquettes, hammered brass, and carved jali screens, striking a balance between Mumbai glam and coastal California ease; a sidewalk patio pulls in salt air and sunset light.

In a city where most contemporary Indian cooking had clustered east of the 405, Fitoor immediately reshaped the Westside conversation. Early raves from the Los Angeles Times and Eater positioned it as both a destination restaurant and a neighborhood hangout, proving that Indian flavors can be plated with the same produce-driven finesse—and served in the same design-forward setting—as any of Santa Monica’s coastal Mediterranean or New-American hotspots. Within months it became a catalytic address, coaxing diners, chefs, and cocktail pros alike to see Indian cuisine not as a late-night craving but as one of L.A.’s most vibrant, modern, and versatile food languages.

Chef Pawan Mahendro, the culinary patriarch behind the Mahendro family’s growing Los Angeles empire, now presides over the stoves at Fitoor in Santa Monica. Born in Amritsar, he earned his stripes in India’s luxury-hotel circuit—stints at Oberoi properties and the Taj Group—before emigrating to Toronto, where he helmed the beloved Copper Chimney and later opened his own place, Chef of India. In 2013 he joined his sons Nakul and Arjun to launch Badmaash in downtown L.A., a boundary-pushing Punjabi gastropub that landed on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list for multiple years and helped redefine modern Indian cooking in Southern California. Fitoor, which opened in 2023 a few blocks from the Pacific, is the family’s most ambitious dining room yet and gives Pawan a dedicated stage for the refined techniques he has been honing for nearly five decades.

Mahendro’s signature style lies at the intersection of classic North-Indian flavors and the ingredient-driven ethos of coastal California. At Fitoor that translates to Santa Barbara spot prawns quickly kissed in the tandoor and glossed with chile-garlic ghee, lamb nalli nihari slow-braised over mesquite, and delicate vegetable dishes that pivot with the Santa Monica farmers’ market. His influences range from the street-food vendors of Old Delhi to the exacting French brigade system he studied in hotel school; the result is food that feels both emotionally familiar and quietly technical. Eater L.A. has already named Fitoor one of the city’s “Most Anticipated” openings, and local critics routinely single out Mahendro’s sauces and stocks—built on long, layered reductions—for particular praise.

Guiding the menu is a simple philosophy the chef sums up as “tradition, obsession, and California sunshine.” Tradition supplies the canon: time-honored garam masalas hand-ground each morning and breads stretched to order against the walls of a clay oven. Obsession is the relentless pursuit of depth—tasting every batch of makhani sauce until the fenugreek hum is perfectly calibrated, or refusing to send out a biryani until the rice grains steam into distinct, perfumed strands. And California sunshine means cooking with the immediacy of place: pristine produce, sustainable seafood, grass-fed meats, and a respect for seasonality that keeps the menu in constant, playful motion. In Mahendro’s hands, Fitoor becomes less a restaurant than a love letter—to India, to his adopted coast, and to the restless, joyful act of cooking itself.


House space.

The menu.

The Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois is a refined Champagne from the renowned Épernay region, crafted with a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes. The 2012 vintage showcases a unique depth and complexity, with notes of toasted brioche, ripe apple, and subtle hints of spice. This elegant sparkling wine pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly oysters or grilled fish, enhancing the meal with its fine bubbles and crisp acidity.

From the iconic house of Billecart-Salmon, this Champagne reflects the terroir of the Champagne region, with a focus on traditional methods and minimal intervention. The oak aging adds a layer of richness, making it a perfect companion for rich cheeses and charcuterie, elevating your dining experience with its harmonious balance and lingering finish.

Silken Yogurt Kebab: cream cheese, coriander chutney. Filled with cream cheese and super delicious. The delicate texture of the kebab melts in your mouth, while the vibrant coriander chutney adds a refreshing contrast, enhancing the dish’s rich creaminess. The interplay of flavors is both satisfying and subtle, inviting you to savor each exquisite bite.

Bombay Papdi Bhel: puffed rice, mint & dates chutney. Dry texture, crunchy, with a good flavor. The vibrant green of the mint chutney mingles beautifully with the golden hue of the puffed rice, creating a feast for the eyes. Each bite bursts with a delightful contrast of textures, the crispiness of the rice harmonizing with the luscious sweetness of the dates, while the mint adds a refreshing aroma that lingers on the palate.

Achari Paneer Tikka: pickle, olive tapenade. Delicious, but super rich and actually a little bit spicy. The vibrant hues of the marinated paneer contrast beautifully with the deep, earthy tones of the olive tapenade, creating a visually stunning dish. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of tangy, umami flavors, while the subtle heat lingers pleasantly on the palate, inviting another taste.

Tandoori Curry Leaf Prawns: curry leaf, tobiko, tempered buttermilk. Lovely. The foamy dairy was awesome too. The vibrant orange hue of the prawns captivates the eye, while the fragrant curry leaves impart a subtle earthiness. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of textures, from the crispy tobiko to the creamy buttermilk, creating a harmonious dance of flavors that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Coastal Flame Scallops: Sri Lankan fish curry, black tobiko. Nice and clean. The scallops are perfectly seared, showcasing a delicate caramelization that enhances their natural sweetness, while the vibrant black tobiko adds a delightful crunch. The dish is elevated by the aromatic layers of the Sri Lankan fish curry, which imparts a subtle heat and earthy complexity, enveloping the palate in a harmonious embrace of bold flavors and textures.


Chicken Koliwada. Fried chicken poppers, chili dust.


Avocado Burrata Chaat. Avocado mixed with burrata cheese and Indian spices. Topped with nylon sev and mango and berry coulis.

Pulled Butter Chicken Kulcha: herb butter, micro greens. Naan with butter chicken — what’s not to like? The rich, unctuous flavor of the butter chicken melds seamlessly with the herbaceous notes of the butter, creating a delightful harmony that dances on the palate. The golden kulcha, perfectly crisp on the outside yet pillowy soft within, invites you to indulge in every savory bite, while the vibrant microgreens add a refreshing burst of color and freshness to the experience.


Truffle Mushroom Kulcha. Fluffy kulcha stuffed with cheese, savory mushrooms & earthy truffle.

The Piano di Montevergine Taurasi 2010 from Feudi di San Gregorio is a captivating expression of the Campania region. This Aglianico-based wine boasts deep, dark fruit aromas interwoven with notes of leather, spice, and hints of minerality. On the palate, it is robust yet refined, offering a velvety texture and well-integrated tannins, making it an excellent pairing for rich meats like braised lamb or aged cheeses.

This vintage reflects the terroir beautifully, showcasing the complexity and aging potential characteristic of Taurasi wines. With its structured profile and lingering finish, it invites a contemplative sip, ideal for savoring alongside hearty Italian dishes or a charcuterie board.

Kashmiri Gucchi Risotto: morel mushrooms, truffle oil. This risotto was to die for — super creamy. The rich, earthy aroma of the morel mushrooms intertwined beautifully with the luxurious truffle oil, creating a symphony of umami that lingered delightfully on the palate. Its velvety texture and vibrant color made every spoonful an indulgent experience, reminiscent of a warm embrace on a cool evening.

Alleppey Prawn & Fish Curry. Coconut, curry leaf. The dish presents a vibrant medley of flavors, where the richness of coconut envelops the tender prawns and fish, creating a harmonious balance. The fragrant curry leaves impart a subtle earthiness, while the dish’s enticing aroma evokes the warm embrace of coastal Indian cuisine. Each spoonful reveals a symphony of textures, from the silky sauce to the succulent seafood, making this a truly delightful experience for the palate.

The Curry itself had a bit of a Thai curry vibe. Quite lovely flavor actually.


Asado Branzino Filet. mint pesto, potato salli.

Traditional Chicken Seekh Masala: Onion tomato masala. Rich and delicious. Instead of the usual grilled chicken, this was spiced chicken kebab — even better. The vibrant hues of the masala envelop the tender kebabs, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of spices, with earthy undertones and a subtle smokiness that lingers delightfully, complemented by the sweet acidity of the onion-tomato base.

Lamb Shank Rogan Josh chili threads, micro greens, rogan. Very nice. The sauce was slightly thin though. The dish boasts a rich, earthy aroma, with the tender lamb shank enveloped in a vibrant, crimson-hued sauce that hints at the depth of spices within. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of warmth and complexity, complemented by the delicate crunch of microgreens and the subtle heat of chili threads, creating a delightful interplay of textures and flavors.


Peshawari Lamb Seekh Kebab. Minced lamb flavored with Peshawari spices, cooked in the tandoor and served with horseradish thecha, mint foam and yogurt onions.


Traditional Chicken Seekh Masala. Chicken kebabs served in an onion, tomato and cashew masala. Garnished with crumbled pistachio and cashews. *spicy*

Garlic Naan is a warm, pillowy flatbread infused with aromatic garlic, making it the perfect companion to any curry. The golden-brown crust is slightly crisp, giving way to a soft and chewy interior that carries a subtle hint of char. As you tear into it, the delightful fragrance of roasted garlic wafts through the air, inviting you to savor each bite. The gentle interplay of flavors, with the savory garlic notes balanced by a touch of buttery richness, creates a harmonious experience that elevates the entire meal.


Dessert menu.

Chocolate Nemesis. Orange mousse, jaggery ice cream. Really delicious and very soft. The velvety richness of the chocolate is beautifully complemented by the bright citrus notes of the orange mousse, creating a delightful contrast that dances on the palate. The jaggery ice cream adds a subtle caramel sweetness, enhancing the overall experience with its creamy texture and inviting warmth.

 


Overall, a pretty delicious place. Very updated and not as heavy as most Indian.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Foodie Kusano

Jul22

Restaurant: Kusano

Location: 10726 Jefferson Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230. *unknown*

Date: December 16, 2024

Cuisine: Omakase Sushi

Chef: Yuto Kusano

Rating: Great

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Kusano opened its doors on Jefferson Boulevard in 2018, the project of husband-and-wife team Yuto and Mariko Kusano, both second-generation Angelenos whose families came from Fukuoka. After years in Michelin-starred kitchens—Yuto on the sushi line at Mori, Mariko as a pastry sous-chef at Providence—they pooled modest savings and took over a narrow storefront that had housed a shoe-repair shop since the 1950s. From day one, the couple insisted on keeping ownership independent and family-run: Mariko handles the books and dessert program, Yuto presides over a six-seat counter, and his younger brother Kai manages a tiny yakitori grill that perfumes the sidewalk every night. Their culinary philosophy is deceptively simple: treat California’s coastal produce the way their grandparents treated Kyūshū’s—minimal intervention, total respect. That means Santa Barbara uni spooned over warm rice seasoned with kelp stock instead of vinegar, house-cured mackerel brightened by yuzu from a Temple City backyard, and late-night bowls of chicken bone broth finished with a whisper of smoked sea salt from Okinawa.Chef Yuto Kusano grew up in Japan’s lush Kochi Prefecture, where his grandparents ran a tiny ryōtei that first sparked his fascination with seasonality. After formal culinary training at Tsuji in Osaka, he embarked on a decade-long apprenticeship that took him from the three-Michelin-starred Kikunoi in Kyoto to the exacting pastry station at Noma in Copenhagen, and finally to Los Angeles, where he spent four years as sous-chef at n/naka. Along the way he earned a reputation for balancing rigorous kaiseki technique with an almost playful curiosity about fermentation and coastal foraging, a combination that landed him on Eater LA’s “Young Guns” list in 2022 and drew the attention of local critics eager to see what he would do on his own.
Tiny little private space.

Skipjack sashimi with onions. The delicate slices of skipjack sashimi are artfully arranged, their glistening surface reflecting a palette of deep pinks and silvers. The subtle oceanic sweetness of the fish is beautifully complemented by the sharpness of the onions, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. Each bite is a tender embrace of silky texture, evoking a freshness that is both invigorating and refreshing.

Precursor orb?

Chawanmushi with shirako and ikura. So good! This delicate steamed egg custard, lusciously creamy and rich, captivates the senses with its silky texture. The umami-packed shirako adds a subtle brininess, while the ikura bursts with a refreshing pop, creating a delightful contrast that lingers on the palate.

Halibut nigiri. Lemon juice and sea salt. The pristine white flesh of the halibut glistens with a delicate sheen, inviting you to savor its subtle sweetness. Each bite unveils a harmonious balance between the briny notes of the sea salt and the bright acidity of the lemon juice, enhancing the fish’s buttery texture and leaving a refreshing finish on the palate.

Shima-aji (striped jack). This exquisite fish boasts a delicate, buttery texture that melts in your mouth, accompanied by a subtle sweetness that awakens the palate. Its iridescent skin glimmers under the light, inviting you to savor its exquisite flavor, while the gentle aroma of the sea lingers enticingly, making each bite a harmonious experience of oceanic freshness.

Hokkaido Scallop: A dish that showcases the natural sweetness of the scallops, perfectly seared to achieve a delicate crisp on the outside while retaining a tender, almost creamy texture within. The subtle brininess transports you to the ocean, while the gentle aroma of the sea lingers enticingly in the air. The dish is a harmonious blend of oceanic freshness and buttery richness, with each bite releasing a burst of umami that dances on the palate, complemented by a whisper of citrus that brightens the overall experience.


Sea Bream.

Monkfish liver. Creamy and rich, with a delicate flavor that lingers on the palate. The smooth texture melts effortlessly, while the subtle brininess offers a hint of the ocean’s embrace. The dish presents a beautiful, glossy sheen, inviting you to savor its luxurious mouthfeel, as aromas of the sea waft gently, enhancing the overall experience.


Aji.

Sweet shrimp with spriolina roe. The shrimp are succulent and tender, their natural sweetness complemented by the briny pop of the roe. Each bite offers a delightful contrast in texture, while the vibrant colors of the dish dance on the plate, enhancing its visual appeal. The dish is a celebration of oceanic freshness, with a subtle umami depth that lingers on the palate, evoking a sense of coastal bliss.


Kimadai snapper. Smoky.

Miso soup is a comforting blend of rich, umami flavors that warms the soul. The velvety texture of the broth is complemented by delicate wisps of seaweed and the subtle sweetness of tofu, creating a harmony of tastes that dances on the palate. The earthy aroma invites you in, while the warm, golden hue offers a visual promise of the soothing experience that awaits. Each spoonful is a gentle reminder of simplicity elevated, making it a timeless classic in the world of Japanese cuisine.

Cooked Japanese Buri (wild yellowtail). The rich, buttery flesh of the fish glistens with a delicate sear, inviting you to savor its oceanic depth. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of sweetness and umami, complemented by a whisper of smokiness, while the tender texture melts in your mouth, leaving a lingering essence of the sea that is both refreshing and satisfying.

Tro of Tuna, Chu-Toro and O-Toro. The vibrant hues of the fish glisten under soft lighting, inviting you to indulge in their melt-in-your-mouth textures. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of richness and umami, with the delicate fat of the O-Toro beautifully balancing the clean, briny notes of the Chu-Toro, leaving a lingering, oceanic essence that captivates the palate.

Hokkaido Uni with Ika (squid). The delicate sweetness of the uni harmonizes beautifully with the subtle brininess of the ika, creating a captivating umami experience. The velvety texture of the uni contrasts with the tender chew of the squid, while the dish’s vibrant colors evoke the essence of the sea, offering a visual feast that tantalizes the senses before the first bite.


Amberjack / King mackerel.

Albacore.

Shirako nigiri. Shirako is the milt of the cod, creamy and rich, served atop a perfectly molded rice base. The delicate, silken texture of the shirako contrasts beautifully with the warm, slightly vinegared rice, creating a harmonious balance on the palate. As you take a bite, the subtle brininess and umami essence unfold, accompanied by a whisper of oceanic aroma, evoking the essence of the sea. Each piece is a delicate testament to the chef’s craftsmanship, leaving a lingering sensation that invites you to savor every moment.


Sweet perch.

Toro Takuan Handroll. Toro Takuan Handroll is a delightful blend of rich toro and crisp takuan, wrapped in a delicate nori. The luxurious, buttery texture of the toro contrasts beautifully with the sweet and tangy crunch of the takuan, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. The vibrant colors of the ingredients, coupled with the fragrant aroma of the nori, elevate this handroll into a sublime experience that is as visually appealing as it is delicious.


Sea Eel.

 

Tamago. A delicate Japanese omelet, sweet and savory, with a perfect balance of flavors. The rich, buttery texture melts in your mouth, while the subtle hints of dashi elevate its umami profile. Its golden hue glistens invitingly, a visual prelude to the harmonious experience awaiting the palate.

 

Gianduia and Peppermint Chip Gelato is a delightful blend of rich chocolate hazelnut and refreshing peppermint. The velvety texture envelops the palate, while the crisp chocolate flecks add an enticing crunch. Each spoonful presents a harmonious balance of sweet and minty flavors, evoking a sense of indulgence with every bite. The gelato’s glossy sheen and vibrant green specks invite you to savor its luxurious essence, making it a perfect treat for any occasion.


The wines.

Great evening with some really good sushi and not even that far away. We just have so much good sushi in town. We weren’t that full, so Erick and I went for second dinner. The delicate, glistening slices of fish melted in my mouth, their umami essence beautifully complemented by the subtle tang of wasabi, while the vibrant colors on the plate danced like art, inviting each bite with a promise of freshness and depth. The experience was a harmonious blend of flavors and textures, leaving a lingering satisfaction that beckoned for more.

Veuve Clicquot, renowned for its vibrant style, hails from the Champagne region of France. This 250th Anniversary Brut is a non-vintage blend that showcases the house’s signature Pinot Noir richness balanced with Chardonnay’s elegance. With notes of ripe apple, brioche, and a hint of citrus, it’s a celebratory wine that pairs beautifully with seafood and light appetizers.

In the background, other bottles hint at a diverse selection, likely featuring a mix of white and red varietals, showcasing a range of terroirs and styles. This variety allows for an exploration of flavors, from crisp, refreshing whites to bold, complex reds, making it a delightful experience for any wine enthusiast.

The Veuve Clicquot Brut, hailing from Champagne, France, is a celebrated non-vintage sparkling wine that epitomizes elegance and finesse. Known for its consistent quality, this cuvée showcases a harmonious blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, delivering a vibrant profile of ripe apple, pear, and subtle brioche notes. Perfectly paired with oysters or a classic seafood dish, it also complements festive occasions and light appetizers.

This particular bottle, celebrating the 250th anniversary of the house, adds a layer of history and tradition to its already illustrious reputation. The wine’s crisp acidity and fine mousse make it an ideal choice for toasting special moments, while its versatility allows it to shine alongside a wide array of culinary delights.

The Colli Stefani Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2020 is a vibrant white wine from the Marche region of Italy. With its zesty acidity and notes of green apple, citrus, and a hint of almond, it offers a refreshing palate that pairs beautifully with seafood dishes such as grilled prawns or a light risotto.

This wine’s crisp and elegant profile makes it an ideal companion for sharing a variety of antipasti, highlighting its versatility. The minerality and floral aromas enhance its appeal, making it a delightful choice for warm evenings or casual gatherings.

Uh oh — second dinner!

El Pastor: A tantalizing blend of marinated pork, pineapple, and fresh cilantro, served on soft corn tortillas. The vibrant colors of the dish catch the eye, while the aroma of charred meat mingles with the sweetness of pineapple, creating a mouthwatering anticipation. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of savory and sweet, with the tender pork complemented by the bright, zesty notes of cilantro, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for another taste.

The plate of weird meats. A curious medley of assorted cuts and flavors that challenges the palate. Each piece, distinct in texture and aroma, invites exploration, with savory notes mingling in a delightful dance. The vibrant hues of the meats, paired with a subtle char, create an enticing visual feast, while the rich umami undertones linger, leaving a memorable impression that beckons for another bite.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Final Miyagi

Jun29

Restaurant: Sushi Miyagi [ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ]

Location: 150 S Barrington Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90049. (323) 382-5635

Date: October 17, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi

Rating: Top Shelf Omakase Sushi

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It is with great sadness that we visited Miyagi for the last time. Real estate issues have tragically led to their closure :-(.

So of course we had to bring some great white burgs, Raveneau in particular.

The 1995 Chablis Grand Cru from Domaine François Raveneau showcases the epitome of elegance and complexity. Hailing from the esteemed Chablis region in Burgundy, this wine presents a vibrant acidity balanced by rich notes of ripe citrus and flint. Its minerality reflects the unique terroir, making it a perfect companion for fresh oysters or a classic sole meunière, enhancing the dining experience with its bright yet profound character.


Amuses.

Oyster (Baja) Caviar: A delicate treat that bursts with the essence of the sea. The glistening pearls, glinting like jewels, offer a briny, umami-rich explosion that dances on the palate, while their silky texture provides a luxurious mouthfeel. Each bite is an invitation to savor the ocean’s bounty, enhanced by a whisper of minerality and a hint of grassy freshness that lingers long after the last morsel.

Monkfish liver with jelly. Monkfish liver is an exquisite delicacy, smooth and rich, paired with a delicate jelly that enhances its natural umami. The luxurious creaminess of the liver contrasts beautifully with the subtle sweetness of the jelly, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate. The dish presents itself in a stunning array of colors, inviting you to indulge in its velvety texture and complex flavors, while the gentle aroma hints at the ocean’s depth, making each bite a memorable experience.

Green Eye Fish (salt fried). This dish is a delightful revelation, with the crispy skin giving way to tender, flaky flesh that is both savory and subtly sweet. The golden-brown exterior crackles with each bite, releasing a fragrant aroma of sea salt and a hint of umami, while the fish’s natural juices create a harmonious balance that dances on the palate.

Boiled shirako (cod sperm) with ponzu. My favorite prep of this. The delicate, creamy texture of the shirako contrasts beautifully with the bright, citrusy notes of the ponzu, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. Each bite offers a rich umami depth, enhanced by the subtle aroma of the ocean, making it a truly captivating experience.

The 2005 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir from Domaine François Raveneau showcases the exquisite terroir of the Chablis region in France. This renowned white wine offers a complex palate with notes of ripe citrus, flint, and subtle oak, balanced beautifully by its vibrant acidity. Pair it with fresh oysters or a delicate sole meunière to enhance its mineral character.

With its elegant structure and depth, this vintage exemplifies the classic Chablis style, where the purity of Chardonnay is highlighted through meticulous winemaking. The wine’s lingering finish and nuanced flavors make it a perfect companion for rich, creamy dishes, such as lobster with drawn butter.

Amadai snapper. Crab and onion sauce. Oil bathed to cook. The sauce was incredible. The amadai snapper, with its delicate, flaky flesh, presents a stunning contrast to the rich, umami-laden crab and onion sauce, which envelops each bite in a velvety embrace. As you savor this dish, the subtle sweetness of the snapper mingles with the savory depths of the sauce, creating a harmonious balance that lingers tantalizingly on the palate.

Pike Mackerel – A stunning specimen showcasing its iridescent skin and delicate, flaky flesh. The dish offers a lean yet rich flavor, with subtle hints of the sea that linger on the palate. The exquisite texture, complemented by a lightly charred exterior, creates a delightful contrast to its moist interior, while the aroma is reminiscent of a fresh ocean breeze, further enhancing the overall experience.

Snow crab from Hokkaido. Kani miso. The delicate sweetness of the snow crab is beautifully complemented by the rich, umami-packed kani miso, which adds a luxurious creaminess to each bite. The vibrant, glistening white flesh contrasts with the deep, earthy tones of the miso, creating a visually stunning presentation that entices the palate. As you savor this exquisite dish, the subtle brininess of the ocean lingers, evoking the pristine waters of Hokkaido, while the tender texture of the crab melts effortlessly in your mouth.

The chef’s work box.

The 2011 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur from Domaine François Raveneau is a quintessential expression of its terroir, showcasing the elegance and minerality synonymous with this prestigious region. With bright acidity and layered complexity, it reveals notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a saline finish, making it a perfect companion to oysters or a delicate white fish dish.

This wine’s vibrant character is enhanced by its age, allowing for subtle hints of honey and flint to emerge, harmonizing beautifully with the fresh fruit profile. Ideal for a special occasion, it pairs exquisitely with rich seafood or creamy cheeses, elevating the overall dining experience.

The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir from Domaine William Fèvre showcases the elegance of the Chablis region. With its mineral-driven profile, this Chardonnay offers notes of ripe pear, citrus zest, and a distinct flintiness that speaks to the terroir. Perfectly paired with delicate seafood dishes like oysters or grilled sole, it elevates the dining experience with its crisp acidity and long, lingering finish.

From the renowned vineyards of Chablis, this vintage exemplifies the balance between richness and freshness, making it a stunning choice for those who appreciate the finer nuances of Burgundy wines. The complexity and depth in flavor make it a delightful companion for creamy sauces or a classic coq au vin.


Triggerfish. Monkfish liver.

Japanese Scallop: Slightly bitter from skin. Delicious. The scallop’s delicate, translucent flesh glistens with a pearlescent sheen, inviting you to savor its sweet oceanic essence. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of briny notes and subtle sweetness, enhanced by the intriguing contrast of the slightly bitter skin, creating a symphony of flavor that dances on the palate.

Wild baby yellowtail. Soy sauce marinated with Japanese black pepper. The fish glistens with an enticing sheen, its delicate, buttery flesh offering a sublime contrast to the subtle heat of the black pepper. As I take a bite, the umami-rich soy sauce envelops my palate, while the gentle spice lingers, enhancing the overall experience with its aromatic complexity.

Hari squid with lemon and shiso. This dish showcases tender squid elevated by the bright, zesty notes of lemon and the unique, herbaceous quality of shiso. The vibrant colors of the dish entice the eye, while the delicate balance of umami and acidity dances on the palate, creating a refreshing yet complex flavor experience that lingers delightfully. The interplay of textures, from the slightly chewy squid to the crispness of the shiso, adds an intriguing dimension, making each bite a joyful exploration of taste.

Spanish mackerel with green onion. The dish presents an alluring contrast between the buttery richness of the fish and the sharp, vibrant notes of the green onion. The mackerel’s skin glistens with a delicate sheen, while the green onion adds a refreshing crunch that elevates each bite, infusing the experience with a fragrant burst of umami. The interplay of flavors dances on the palate, leaving a lingering, savory essence that beckons for another taste.

Charred Barracuda. This dish features expertly grilled barracuda, showcasing a perfect char that adds a smoky depth to its natural flavor. The fish’s firm texture contrasts beautifully with its delicate, flaky interior, while the subtle hints of citrus elevate the dish, making each bite a harmonious balance of zest and umami. Visually, the vibrant crust glistens with a tantalizing sheen, inviting you to indulge in its rich, savory essence.

Bluefin tiuna aged 24 (or 34) days. This exquisite fish, with its rich marbling and deep, oceanic flavor, offers a luxurious experience that is both tender and umami-driven. The vibrant, ruby-red flesh glistens invitingly, while the aroma is reminiscent of a fresh sea breeze, transporting you to its natural habitat. Each bite melts in your mouth, releasing a complex blend of savory notes that linger beautifully on the palate.

Otoro: The luxurious belly of the bluefin tuna, with its rich marbling and buttery texture, truly melts in your mouth. Each delicate slice presents a glistening sheen, inviting you to savor its opulent flavor. The umami notes are profound, complemented by a hint of sweetness that lingers on the palate, while the subtle aroma of the ocean evokes a sense of tranquility. This exquisite delicacy is not just a dish; it’s an experience that beautifully captures the essence of culinary artistry.


Goldeneye snapper.

Snapper with truffle. This dish features a beautifully seared snapper, enhanced by the earthy aroma of truffle. The fish is tender and flaky, with a delicate balance of richness from the truffle that elevates its natural sweetness. The presentation is vibrant, with a glossy finish that invites you to savor each bite, while the subtle umami notes linger pleasantly on the palate.

Chawanmushi with tomato sauce. Unusual but excellent combo. The delicate, silky custard of the chawanmushi contrasts beautifully with the vibrant acidity of the tomato sauce, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. Each spoonful offers a subtle umami depth, enhanced by the freshness of the tomatoes, while the dish’s warm, inviting colors tantalize the senses before the first taste.


Black throat. Grilled onion.

Hokkaido uni: This exquisite delicacy is a true reflection of the ocean’s bounty, with its creamy texture and briny sweetness. The vibrant golden hue glistens enticingly, inviting you to indulge in its luxurious richness. Each velvety bite unravels layers of umami, complemented by a subtle hint of the sea breeze, making it an unforgettable experience for the palate.


Mexican uni.

A4 Beef.

Anago Sea Eel from Tokyo, Japan. This dish captures the essence of the ocean with its delicate, subtly sweet flavor and a melt-in-your-mouth texture. The translucent skin glistens, hinting at the fresh brininess of the sea, while the gentle aroma evokes a sense of sophistication. Each bite is a harmonious balance of umami and salinity, leaving a lingering, satisfying taste that transports you straight to the bustling streets of Tokyo.


Ikura.

Crab handroll. A delightful combination of fresh crab meat wrapped in a delicate sheet of nori, accompanied by perfectly seasoned sushi rice and a touch of wasabi. The handroll presents a beautiful contrast of vibrant colors, with the creamy white crab juxtaposed against the deep green of the nori. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of briny sweetness and umami, while the soft texture of the crab melds wonderfully with the slight chew of the rice, creating a satisfying mouthfeel that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Macha almond white gelato is a sublime creation that combines the earthy notes of matcha with the delicate creaminess of almond, resulting in a luxurious frozen dessert. The vibrant green hue of the gelato is not only visually striking but also hints at the complex flavor profile within. Each spoonful offers a silky texture that melts effortlessly on the palate, releasing layers of umami and nuttiness, while the subtle sweetness lingers gracefully, inviting another taste.

I’ll show you mine if you show me yours.

Amazing meal as always at Miyagi, with equally amazing wines.

Full lineup!

Meet the talented chef, meticulously crafting a culinary masterpiece that promises to delight every diner at the table.

 

Celebrating a memorable meal, this joyful group of diners is joined by the talented chef, who created the culinary delights that brought them together.

Meet the talented chef and gracious host, who together create an unforgettable dining experience steeped in tradition and culinary artistry.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Republique of Tomatoes

Jun01

Restaurant: République  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14]

Location: 624 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036. (310) 362-6115

Date: September 29, 2024

Cuisine: French

Chef: Walter Manzke

Rating: Very solid as always

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République opened in late 2013, breathing new life into the storied 1929 Spanish-Revival structure on South La Brea once built for Charlie Chaplin and later occupied by Campanile and La Brea Bakery. Husband-and-wife chefs Walter and Margarita Manzke—backed at launch by restaurateur Bill Chait—took over the landmark with a pledge to honor its history while pushing Los Angeles dining forward. Walter, known for his exacting French technique and market-driven cooking, oversees the savory kitchen, while Margarita, a multiple James Beard nominee, commands the boulangerie-pâtisserie whose kouign-amann and croissants have become citywide benchmarks. Their culinary philosophy marries classical French foundations with Southern California seasonality: whole-animal butchery, house-made charcuterie, vibrant farmers-market produce, and pastries that rival the entrées for star status. The restaurant’s all-day format—morning bakery counter, casual midday café, and polished dinner service—mirrors the couple’s belief that fine craftsmanship should be accessible at any hour.

 

Stepping inside, guests find a soaring, skylit hall of exposed brick, reclaimed wood, and original tile, its cathedral-like volume softened by the clatter of an open kitchen and a marble bakery counter stacked with still-warm loaves. Communal tables, an intimate mezzanine, a zinc-topped bar pouring Old World wines and craft cocktails, and a subterranean wine cellar create a layered space that feels simultaneously grand and convivial—Parisian brasserie meets California workshop. République quickly became an anchor of the revitalized La Brea dining corridor, earning a Michelin star and constant local acclaim for combining technical rigor with the easygoing spirit Angelenos prize. Nearly a decade on, it remains both a pilgrimage site for pastry lovers and a benchmark for market-driven French cooking in Los Angeles, proof that history and innovation can thrive under the same vaulted roof.
Raised in a farming family near San Diego, Walter Manzke left California in the early 1990s for classical training at the Culinary Institute of America and an apprenticeship at Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monaco. Back in the States he joined Joachim Splichal’s Patina Group, quickly rising to chef de cuisine at Patina before earning his first national notice as opening chef of Bastide in West Hollywood and later as executive chef/partner at L’Auberge Carmel, where he won a MICHELIN star. A six-month stage at El Bulli and shorter sojourns at El Celler de Can Roca and Pierre Gagnaire rounded out a résumé that now reads like a tour of modern European masters. By the time he took over the historic 1929 Charlie Chaplin-built space on La Brea in 2013—opening it as République with his wife and acclaimed pastry chef Margarita Manzke—he had become one of L.A.’s most sought-after kitchen leaders.

Tomato Menu – Back to Republique for this year’s special tomato menu cooked by Chef Walter Manzke, Chef Margarita Manzke, and Chef Marcus Jernmark. The vibrant hues of the tomatoes are beautifully showcased, with each dish offering a symphony of sweet and tangy notes, complemented by a touch of earthiness. The textures range from silky purées to crisped skins, creating a delightful contrast that dances on the palate, while the aroma of fresh herbs enhances the overall experience, inviting you into a garden of exquisite flavors.

Gothic.

Walter Manzke’s cooking at République marries French technique to Southern California product and a restless, globe-trotting curiosity. House-baked levain, hand-cut charcuterie, and sauces mounted in the old Escoffier style share the menu with uni topped kimchi fried rice or dry-aged côte de boeuf served with Thai nahm jim. The connective tissue is seasonality: virtually every day starts with a pre-dawn run to the Santa Monica Farmers Market, and whole animals and stone-ground grains arrive weekly for in-house butchery and milling. Influences range from Ducasse’s rigor to the improvisational spirit of California cuisine and the avant-garde ideas Manzke absorbed in Spain; the result is a style that feels at once classic and perpetually new. Multiple James Beard nominations (Best Chef: West for Walter, Outstanding Pastry Chef for Margarita), a spot in Jonathan Gold’s perennial “101 Best” list, and national nods from Esquire, Food & Wine, and the MICHELIN Guide underscore the impact.

Philosophically, Manzke treats the restaurant as a living workshop: buy the best possible ingredients from people you know, waste nothing, respect technique but never let it calcify, and keep the dining room accessible to all—from early-morning kouign-amann and Stumptown coffee to a nine-course dégustation at night. “We cook French food the way Angelenos eat,” he likes to say, summing up a kitchen culture that prizes curiosity over dogma, craftsmanship over trend, and hospitality over hierarchy.

Swedish-born chef Marcus Jernmark earned his fine-dining stripes in New York, guiding Aquavit to Michelin acclaim and polishing his craft at Thomas Keller’s Per Se before returning to Europe to helm Stockholm’s three-star Frantzén and launch its Singapore sibling Zén. After relocating to Los Angeles in 2022, he unveiled plans for two modern Nordic concepts—Lielle, named for his daughter, and the seafood-focused Marée—set to open in 2025 inside a revamped Pico Boulevard townhouse, where he aims to rekindle the city’s appetite for Scandinavian cooking. Jernmark’s style fuses Nordic precision with French technique, but it is rooted in a hyper-seasonal, California-first pantry and a philosophy that elevates joy and hospitality alongside technical rigor, making him one of the most closely watched chefs on the West Coast dining scene.

Erick.


Myself.


The menu.

The 2014 Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Premier Cru “Eau Remilly” showcases the elegance of Burgundy with its bright acidity and layered complexity. This Chardonnay offers notes of citrus zest, white peach, and a subtle minerality that speaks to its terroir. A perfect pairing for seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a rich lobster bisque, enhancing both the wine and the meal.

With its refined structure and fragrant bouquet, this wine embodies the essence of the Saint-Aubin region. The oak aging adds a touch of warmth and depth, making it a delightful match for creamy cheeses or roasted chicken, elevating any dining experience to a Michelin-starred level.

Chilled Oyster: aged Kaluga caviar, menegi oil, green zebra tomato mignonette. Very Republique, but nice with the zingy tomato juice. The delicate brininess of the oyster is beautifully complemented by the luxurious, buttery caviar, while the vibrant green zebra tomato mignonette adds a refreshing acidity that dances on the palate. The dish presents a stunning contrast of colors and textures, with the glossy caviar glistening atop the oyster’s pearlescent shell, inviting you to indulge in its oceanic allure.

Blue Corn Tostada: early girl tomato tartare, morita chile-tomato gelée, avocado, salsa fresca. Pretty much transported from Manzke. The vibrant hues of the dish create an inviting palette, while the crisp blue corn tostada provides a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the velvety avocado. The tartare bursts with the freshness of the tomatoes, harmoniously complemented by the smoky undertones of the morita chile gelée, delivering an exquisite balance of flavor that dances on the palate.

Zoom.

Pan de Sal, black winter truffle, San Marzano tomato butter. This bread came from Manzke too. The warm, golden crust gives way to a soft, airy interior, while the earthy aroma of black winter truffle melds beautifully with the rich, velvety San Marzano tomato butter, creating a harmonious balance of umami and sweetness that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Pineapple Tomato Gazpacho: red brandywine tomato sorbet, blood orange oil, espresso vinegar. Delicious but sweet. The vibrant hues of the gazpacho evoke a sunset, while the silky sorbet introduces a refreshing chill that dances on the palate. The interplay of sweetness from the sorbet and the zesty notes of blood orange oil creates a harmonious balance, inviting a delightful exploration of flavors with each spoonful.

Zoom

NORWEGIAN KING CRAB. Munak Ranch sugar cube melon, persimmon tomato, Tenerelli Orchards white nectarine nước chấm. The succulent sweetness of the crab is beautifully complemented by the vibrant juiciness of the melon and the delicate acidity of the persimmon tomato. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of textures and flavors, where the tender crab meat meets the refreshing crunch of the seasonal fruits, creating a symphony of taste that dances on the palate.

Makes for a nice photo.

Bluefin Tuna: Pacific uni, sungold tomatoes, fermented yellow peach. Bright. The luscious, buttery texture of the bluefin tuna harmonizes beautifully with the oceanic brininess of the uni, while the sweet, sun-kissed sungold tomatoes add a vibrant pop of color and acidity. The subtle tang of the fermented yellow peach introduces an unexpected depth, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate, evoking the freshness of a sunlit summer day.

Fried shiso to eat it with. The delicate, crispy exterior offers a delightful contrast to the herbaceous, slightly peppery notes of the shiso leaf within. As you take a bite, the fragrant aroma envelops your senses, with hints of earthiness that linger on the palate, making it a perfect accompaniment to a variety of dishes.

The 2002 Échézeaux Grand Cru from Jean-Pierre Mugneret showcases the elegance and complexity of Burgundy’s finest terroirs. Hailing from the esteemed Échézeaux vineyard, this Pinot Noir reveals a bouquet of ripe red berries, floral notes, and subtle earthy undertones. Its velvety tannins and balanced acidity make it a splendid pairing for duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto, enhancing the dish with its sophisticated flavor profile.

Sea Bream ‘Confit’: savory clams, chanterelle mushrooms, smoked tomato sabayon. Rich and simultaneously sweet and tart. The delicate flesh of the sea bream, glistening with a luscious sheen, harmonizes beautifully with the briny clams and earthy mushrooms. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, elevated by the vibrant acidity of the smoked tomato sabayon, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate.

Munak Ranch Tomato Agnolotti: Maine lobster, brown butter, Coleman Farms tarragon. Awesome summer pasta. The delicate agnolotti, with its vibrant tomato essence, envelopes the succulent Maine lobster, while the brown butter adds a nutty depth that perfectly complements the fragrant tarragon. Each bite is a harmonious blend of rich flavors and silky textures, evoking the warmth of summer in every mouthful.

 

Anderson Ranches Rack of Lamb: San Marzano tomato farci, charred eggplant, sauce ratatouille. Pleasant but not as impressive as some of the other dishes. The lamb, expertly cooked to a tender medium-rare, showcases a beautiful pink hue that contrasts elegantly with the deep, earthy tones of the charred eggplant. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory richness and subtle acidity from the tomato farci, while the sauce ratatouille adds a fragrant bouquet of herbs that lingers on the palate, inviting another taste.

Brillat-Savarin Bavarois: country Rhodes farm figs, rocky sweet melon sorbet, early girl tomato. This dish presents a delightful interplay of textures, with the creamy bavarois contrasting beautifully against the luscious figs and the refreshing sorbet. The early girl tomato adds a subtle acidity, enhancing the overall experience, while the vibrant colors create an inviting visual feast that tantalizes the senses before the first bite.

More zooms.

Amuses had tomato flavor, and they actually worked. The vibrant hues of the tomatoes were mirrored in the dish’s presentation, creating a visual symphony that entices the eye. Each bite was a delightful balance of sweetness and acidity, with the smooth texture of the tomato elevating the overall experience, while the aroma wafted hints of earthiness, making it a remarkably refreshing start to the meal.


Two tomato meals in 8 days, and both great! I’ve really warmed up to these first-rate organic tomatoes.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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  2. Third Republique
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  5. Republique of Jadot
By: agavin
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Si Mon!

May28

Restaurant: Si! Mon

Location: 542 Rose Ave, Venice, CA 90291, United States. +1 424-500-0011

Date: August 22, 2024

Cuisine: Latin American

Chef: Sebastián Pérez

Rating: One of the best new places in town

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Si! Mon flung open its doors in the summer of 2022 in a low-slung corner building on Abbot Kinney Boulevard, instantly recognizable by its sun-washed terracotta exterior and a neon script that reads, simply, “¡Sí Mon!”—West-coast Spanglish for an emphatic “hell yes.” The project is owned by longtime Venice resident and hospitality veteran Andrew Walker together with chef-partner Sebastián Pérez, who cooked at Lima’s Central and, more recently, at The Bazaar by José Andrés in Beverly Hills. Their idea was to give the beach neighborhood a restaurant that felt both unmistakably Latin American and unmistakably Venice: independent, irreverent and powered by community rather than corporate money or celebrity backing.

Pérez’s menu roams the continent—Peruvian tiraditos splashed with yuzu leche de tigre, achiote-rubbed chicken that spins slowly over a wood-fired rotisserie, a towering Cuban-style medianoche made with local Bub & Grandma’s brioche—while leaning hard on Southern California produce and a sustainable, nose-to-tail ethos. Cocktails follow suit, built around agave, cane and pisco, laced with market fruit shrubs and house ferments. Design studio Bells & Whistles carried the border-hopping spirit into the 70-seat room, layering white stucco, reclaimed teak, cobalt tile and a cascade of potted philodendrons; wide accordion windows pull the sea breeze straight to the central copper-clad bar.

In a neighborhood better known for Californian-Italian comfort food and fast-casual bowls, Si! Mon has quickly carved out a singular place—late-night refuge for off-shift cooks, date-night spot for locals, and a draw for Angelenos willing to cross town for thoughtful, modern Latin cooking. The Los Angeles Times praised its “confident, joyful” point of view, and Eater LA named it one of the city’s standout openings of 2022. A year on, the restaurant has become a kind of cultural hinge: proof that Venice can still nurture independent, chef-driven projects that speak both to the global city Los Angeles has become and to the bohemian beach town it has always been at heart.

Born in Puebla and raised in Mexico City, Sebastián Pérez cut his teeth in some of the hemisphere’s most exacting kitchens before setting up shop in Venice. After culinary school at the Instituto Culinario de México he spent three formative years on Enrique Olvera’s research and development team at Pujol, followed by stints on the opening brigade at Cosme in New York and a season at Noma’s Tulum pop-up, where he fell hard for open-fire cookery and coastal ingredients. When he moved to Los Angeles in 2019 he ran the wood-grill station at Gjelina, then served as chef de cuisine at Damian, experiences that taught him how to translate Mexican flavors for a Californian pantry. Those stops earned him a spot on Eater’s “Young Guns” list and a James Beard Rising Star semifinalist nod, momentum he carried into launching Si! Mon on Rose Avenue in late 2023.

At Si! Mon, Pérez’s cooking is guided by the idea of “borderless coastal cuisine”—a dialogue between Baja surf towns and the produce-obsessed West Side of L.A. The room smells of mesquite and burning avocado pits, the chef’s preferred fuels for dishes like ember-roasted carrots slicked with recado negro, or local rockfish served whole with hoja santa and grilled citrus from nearby back-yard trees. His plating nods to the Nordic minimalism he absorbed at Noma, but the flavors are unapologetically Mexican: fermented habanero kosho brightens Santa Barbara spot prawns; lamb barbacoa arrives wrapped in seaweed instead of maguey leaves. Influences range from the street-side tacos of Puebla to the market-driven ethos of Alice Waters, yet everything is filtered through Pérez’s conviction that ingredients should be “treated as honored guests—never over-seasoned, never overstayed on the heat.”

That philosophy of reverence and restraint guides more than the food. Si! Mon partners with Dock to Dish for traceable seafood, composts kitchen scraps with a Venice community garden, and lists the provenance of every herb on the menu. The approach has earned the restaurant a spot on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list and a Michelin Bib Gourmand within its first year, but Pérez insists the real accolade is watching diners tear up blue masa tortillas and pass plates family-style. “Our menu is written in two languages,” he likes to say, “but it speaks one dialect: gratitude—for the land, the sea, and the people who bring them to the table.”


Si! Mon is modern Panamanian fusion and is in the old James Beach spot across the street from Ospi.

Pleasant semi-outside space. It was loud, buzzy, and very, very dark.


The buzzy interior.

We ordered all but two items on the menu for three people!

The 2011 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is a stunning expression from one of Chablis’s most esteemed producers. Hailing from the renowned Les Clos vineyard, this wine showcases a vibrant acidity paired with notes of ripe citrus, green apple, and a hint of flint. The mineral backbone provides exceptional length and complexity, making it a perfect match for seafood dishes, particularly fresh oysters or grilled fish.

With its rich texture and layered flavors, this Chardonnay embodies the essence of Chablis, offering a delightful balance between elegance and power. The wine’s aging potential is evident, suggesting that further bottle age will enhance its aromatic profile. Enjoy it alongside creamy cheeses or a classic lobster bisque to elevate the dining experience.

Abreboca: LITTLE NECK CLAM & UNI SHOOTER. Uni, achiote ponzu, quail yolk. Delicious and zesty/sweet. The delicate brininess of the little neck clam harmonizes beautifully with the rich, creamy umami of the uni, while the quail yolk adds a luxurious silkiness that envelops the palate. The vibrant colors and enticing aroma invite a sensory journey that is both refreshing and indulgent.

KANPACHI CEVICHE: coconut leche de tigre, crispy corn, red onion, plantain chips. Very strong zesty coconut flavor. The dish presents a vibrant palette, with the kanpachi glistening under the light, its delicate texture juxtaposed against the crunch of crispy corn and the subtle sweetness of plantain chips. The leche de tigre brings a refreshing zing, harmonizing the rich coconut undertones with the sharpness of red onion, creating an exquisite balance that dances across the palate.

Curry Spiced Sashimi: hamachi, curry mushroom oil, turmeric. Delicious, if one of the more straightforward dishes. The hamachi glistens with a silky sheen, its delicate texture complemented by the earthy warmth of the curry mushroom oil, while the bright notes of turmeric add a vibrant splash of color. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of umami and spice, awakening the palate with its subtle complexity.

Tuna Carpaccio Yuca Tostada: cachucha aioli, smoked achiote oil, black lime. Amazing flavor. Crispy and deep smoky qualities. The vibrant colors of the dish are visually striking, with the delicate pink of the tuna contrasting beautifully against the golden yuca tostada. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of rich umami from the tuna, the creamy texture of the aioli, and the subtle tang of black lime, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that lingers on the palate.

Surf Clam Ceviche: culantro, leche de tigre, onion, plantain chips. Bright and zesty again — leche de tigre always is. The vibrant green of the culantro contrasts beautifully with the translucent surf clams, while the crispy plantain chips add a delightful crunch. Each bite bursts with the tang of citrus, enveloping the palate in a refreshing embrace that lingers with a hint of ocean brine.

Sungold Tostada: Sungold tomato, cashew butter, benne, avocado. Really delicious. The delightful crunch of the tostada perfectly contrasts with the luscious, creamy avocado and the rich, nutty essence of the cashew butter. Each bite reveals the vibrant sweetness of the Sungold tomatoes, bursting with juice and a hint of umami that dances on the palate, leaving a satisfying and refreshing finish.

Corn ceviche: sweet corn, corn leche de tigre, crispy corn, plantain chips. Lovely corn flavor and great crispy texture. The dish offers a delightful interplay of sweetness and umami, with the corn leche de tigre providing a refreshing acidity that elevates the natural sweetness of the corn. The contrasting textures of the crispy corn and plantain chips add an inviting crunch, creating a harmonious balance that is as pleasing to the palate as it is to the eye.

Second shot because why not?

BAKED OYSTERS: caramelized shallot butter, toasted coconut, smoked achiote oil. Rich and buttery. The delicate brininess of the oysters is beautifully complemented by the sweet, nutty notes of toasted coconut, while the smoked achiote oil adds a whisper of earthiness, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. Visually, the dish presents a sumptuous golden hue, enticing the senses with its aromatic allure before delivering a luxuriously creamy texture that lingers on the palate.

The Leirana Albariño, from the Rías Baixas region of Spain, showcases the vibrancy of the 2021 vintage. This white wine is characterized by its bright acidity and notes of citrus, green apple, and a hint of salinity, making it a perfect companion for seafood dishes, especially fresh oysters or grilled fish.

Crafted by Bodegas Leirana, this wine embodies the essence of the Galician terroir, reflecting the cool Atlantic influence. Its crisp and refreshing profile invites exploration, pairing beautifully with light salads or creamy cheeses, elevating any dining experience with its elegant complexity.

Dungeness Crab Guacho: rice porridge, rum-braised sweet pepper. Complex with a lovely almost gumbo-like quality. The dish presents a vibrant interplay of textures, with the creamy porridge enveloping tender morsels of crab, while the rum-braised sweet pepper adds a subtle sweetness and depth. The aroma is a warm embrace, inviting one to savor each spoonful that dances between the briny essence of the sea and the comforting heartiness of the porridge.

Afro-Caribbean Shrimp Dumplings: coconut bisque, charred scallion oil, herbs. Delicious XLB-like mantu and bright and rich flavors. The delicate dumplings are a symphony of textures, with a tender exterior giving way to a succulent shrimp filling that bursts with freshness. The luscious coconut bisque envelops each bite, while the charred scallion oil adds a smoky depth, harmonizing beautifully with the vibrant herbs that elevate the dish to a delightful crescendo of flavor.

Sweet corn “bollo”: pecorino, “natilla”, guajillo chili oil, crispy corn. Tasted like a corn tamale. The dish presents a vibrant golden hue, inviting with its gentle sheen, while the creamy texture of the natilla beautifully contrasts the crispiness of the corn. The guajillo chili oil adds a subtle smokiness, elevating the sweet corn’s natural flavors and enveloping the palate in a harmonious blend of warmth and richness.

Tasajo Style Carne en Palito: Hanger steak, grilled onions, potato puree, horseradish. Probably my least favorite of the mains, but still really good. The white potato puree was very gooey. The hanger steak, with its rich marbling, offered a tender bite that harmonized beautifully with the smoky sweetness of the grilled onions, while the horseradish added a sharp, invigorating kick. The dish’s vibrant colors and contrasting textures created a visually appealing plate, inviting one to savor each element thoughtfully.

Crispy Pork Belly & Beans: Bibb lettuce, coconut vinegar, herbs. This was awesome. Vaguely Korean with the zesty coconut sauce. You put some in the herb wraps. The succulent pork belly, with its perfectly crisp skin, juxtaposes beautifully against the tender beans, while the vibrant green lettuce adds a refreshing crunch. The aromatic herbs and tangy coconut vinegar lend an exotic brightness, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate, leaving a lingering sense of satisfaction.

 

The sides.

Miso aged duck: cashew butter miso, cabbage and herb salad, Fresno vinaigrette. Awesome dish, both components. The duck was strong flavored but rich and delicious, its deep umami notes beautifully balanced by the nutty essence of the miso. The slaw offered a refreshing contrast, its zesty, herbaceous crunch invigorating each bite with vibrant aromas and a playful acidity that lingered delightfully on the palate.

Kanpachi en banana leaf, coconut oil, makrut lime, Thai basil, roasted garlic. Very pleasant. The delicate kanpachi, enveloped in a fragrant banana leaf, releases a symphony of tropical aromas as it steams, while the coconut oil adds a rich, velvety mouthfeel. The vibrant notes of makrut lime and the aromatic Thai basil intertwine beautifully, elevating each bite into a harmonious blend of freshness and warmth, with the roasted garlic providing a subtle depth that lingers invitingly on the palate.

Fried Chicken Drumsticks: twice-fried, herbed salt, spicy ketchup, curtido. Great crispy chicken. The drumsticks arrive with a golden-brown crust that crackles delightfully with each bite, revealing tender, juicy meat within. The herbed salt adds a savory depth, while the spicy ketchup offers a tangy kick that dances on the palate, perfectly complemented by the refreshing crunch of the curtido.

Coconut flan. Really really good. The flan boasts a silky smooth texture, enveloping the palate in a delicate embrace of sweetness, while the subtle notes of coconut dance harmoniously with hints of caramel. Its golden hue glistens invitingly, and the fragrant aroma evokes memories of sun-kissed tropical shores, making each bite a delightful escape.

A kind of cocoa crispy pot de crème with a flan-like texture. This dessert presents a delightful contrast between the silky smoothness of the custard and the delicate crunch of cocoa crisps. The rich, chocolatey aroma envelops the senses, while the subtle sweetness harmonizes with the creamy base, creating a luxurious and indulgent experience with each spoonful.


This was a great meal. Really unusual bright Central American flavors, super modern. But overall, the chef is extremely talented. Pretty much every dish hit its mark.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Tomato Wednesday!

May26

Restaurant: Marino Ristorante  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

Location: 6001 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 466-8812

Date: August 21, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Salvatore “Sal” Marino

Rating: On of the best

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Marino Ristorante is one of Los Angeles’s quiet legends, a family-run Italian dining room whose story stretches back to 1952, when Neapolitan émigré Ciro Marino opened his first trattoria for studio executives and movie stars hungry for a taste of home. After two earlier locations, the Marinos commissioned a low-slung, glass-fronted building on Melrose Avenue in 1983 and never looked back. Ownership has stayed strictly in the family: Ciro’s sons now steer the ship—chef Salvatore “Sal” Marino in the kitchen, his brother Mario overseeing the dining room and wine program—while their mother, Maria, still greets regulars at the door. That continuity has made Marino Ristorante both a living slice of Hollywood history and a welcoming neighborhood anchor for Larchmont Village.

Sal Marino’s culinary philosophy folds old-world discipline into the hyper-seasonal bounty of Southern California. The menu pivots around house-made pastas, pristine seafood crudi, and produce—especially heirloom tomatoes—plucked from the family’s own farm plots, then treated with the minimalist respect of Naples. The dining room, with its original terrazzo floor, walnut paneling, and wall of celebrity photographs, evokes mid-century glamour while a sleek marble bar and leafy patio keep the mood contemporary. In a city continually chasing the next big thing, Marino Ristorante occupies a rarified place: a restaurant that helped define the local Italian scene and still sets the standard for gracious, ingredient-driven cooking more than seven decades after the first plate of spaghetti left Ciro’s hands.

Marino’s: an August night outside on the patio for Tomato Wednesday!

The restaurant’s outdoor space exudes an inviting charm, where soft golden lanterns cast a warm glow over elegantly set tables, creating an enchanting atmosphere that encourages lingering conversations. Vibrant greenery interspersed among the tables enhances the sense of intimacy, while the playful backdrop of a pastel pink facade adds a touch of whimsy.

Just for us!

Producer: Philippe Gonet
Region: Champagne, France
Vintage: 1999
Style: Brut Champagne
Pairing: Ideal with oysters, seafood, or light appetizers to complement its crisp acidity and complex flavors.

Capichera VT – Produced in Sardinia, Italy, this white wine from the 2021 vintage showcases a vibrant character with notes of citrus and herbs. It pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled fish and shellfish.

 

Producer: Francesco Rinaldi & Figli
Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy
Vintage: 1901
Style: Red wine, Barolo
Pairing: Ideal with rich dishes like braised meats and aged cheeses, enhancing the wine’s complexity and depth.

Producer: Poderi Aldo Conterno | Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy | Vintage: 1979 | Style: Red, Nebbiolo | Pairing: Perfectly complements rich dishes like braised meats and truffles, as well as aged cheeses.

Producer: Giuseppe Mascarello; Region: Barolo, Italy; Vintage: 1996; Style: Red, full-bodied Nebbiolo with complex aromas of rose, tar, and dark fruit; Pairing: Perfect with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.

Producer: Domaine des Lambrays
Region: Burgundy, France
Vintage: 2009
Style: Red wine, Grand Cru
Pairing: Ideal with roasted duck or rich mushroom dishes.

Rinaldi Francesco, Barbaresco, 1901: This historic Barbaresco from the renowned Rinaldi family showcases the elegance and complexity of the Nebbiolo grape. With its rich flavors of dark fruit, leather, and spice, it pairs beautifully with truffle risotto or braised meats.

Bricco Bussia, Barolo, 1979: A classic Barolo from the Bricco Bussia vineyard, this vintage offers notes of cherry, tar, and rose petals, reflecting the terroir of the Langhe region. Ideal for pairing with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.

Monprivato, Barolo, 1996: Produced by Mascarello, this Barolo is celebrated for its depth and complexity, featuring flavors of red

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Ponsot, Burgundy, 2011, Red Wine. This Grand Cru Pinot Noir offers rich complexity with flavors of dark fruit, earth, and spice. Ideal pairing with roasted duck or beef bourguignon.

Capichera VIT, Sardinia, 2018, White Wine. A blend of Vermentino and other indigenous varietals, showcasing bright citrus and herbal notes. Perfectly complements seafood dishes or light pasta with pesto.

Bayard-Montet, Burgundy, 2017, White Wine. A classic Chardonnay with notes of apple, pear, and subtle oak. Pairs beautifully with creamy dishes such as lobster risotto.

Francesco Rinaldi, Barolo, Piedmont,

The menu at Marino Ristorante for Tomato Wednesday showcases a vibrant selection of Italian-inspired dishes, emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients centered around tomatoes. Highlights include a variety of antipasti like bruschetta and carpaccio, seafood options such as grilled octopus and branzino, and classic pasta dishes like spaghetti pomodoro and gnocchi.

Double Gazpacho: Brandywine and Green Zebra. Deliciously pure. The vibrant hues of the Brandywine and Green Zebra tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast, while the refreshing chill of the gazpacho tantalizes the palate. Its silky texture, punctuated by the subtle acidity and herbaceous notes, offers a delightful balance that lingers with each sip, inviting you to savor the essence of summer in every bowl.


That little green is a special basil.

Atomic Stripe Tomato, Hokkaido scallop, verbena tomato water, burrata, basil. Pretty amazing. The vibrant hues of the atomic stripe tomato create a stunning visual contrast against the delicate, translucent Hokkaido scallop, while the verbena tomato water adds a refreshing brightness. Each bite is a harmonious blend of creamy burrata and aromatic basil, offering a delightful interplay of textures and a symphony of sweet, savory, and herbal notes that linger on the palate.

Bruschetta of mixed heirloom rainbow tomatoes. Garlic rubbed grilled Roan Farms bread. Just lovely. My wife loved. The vibrant colors of the heirloom tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast against the rustic bread, while the garlic adds a fragrant warmth that tantalizes the senses. Each bite delivers a delightful interplay of sweetness and acidity, complemented by the satisfying crunch of the perfectly grilled toast.

Pineapple Tomato Carpaccio, wild blue fin tuna tartar, avocado. Almost Mexican in taste—lovely. The dish presents a vibrant palette, with the sweet acidity of the pineapple harmonizing beautifully against the rich, buttery texture of the tuna tartar. Each bite is a refreshing dance of flavors, enhanced by the creamy avocado, inviting you to savor the delicate balance of oceanic and tropical notes.

Pizza Stracciatella. Fresh burrata, basil pesto, cherry heirloom rainbow. Very tomato, crispy crust. The vibrant medley of heirloom tomatoes creates a delightful contrast of sweetness and acidity, while the creamy burrata melts luxuriously into the warm, crisp crust, offering a harmonious blend of textures. The fragrant basil pesto adds a fragrant herbal note, elevating each bite to a refreshing experience that dances on the palate.

Norma Pasta: Artisanal pasta, eggplant, tomato basil. The dish presents a rustic charm, with the pasta elegantly entwined with tender, caramelized eggplant and a vibrant tomato basil sauce that bursts with freshness. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of savory and sweet, while the rich aroma of basil tantalizes the senses, inviting you to savor the comforting textures and radiant colors on the plate.

Maccheroncini, Maine lobster, Black Cherokee, pomodoro basil sauce. The delicate strands of maccheroncini cradle the succulent Maine lobster, while the rich, vibrant pomodoro basil sauce lends a fragrant, herbaceous note that dances on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of sweet and savory, with the earthy undertones of the Black Cherokee tomato adding depth and warmth to this exquisite dish.

Pacchero stuffed with 3hr San Marzano ragu meat and ricotta. Orecchiette San Marzano, spicy Calabrian chili pork sugo. Shifting heavily to the deep-cooked tomato flavor and a good bit of spice. The pacchero, with its robust and tender form, cradles the velvety ragu, while the orecchiette presents a delightful bite, each ear-like shape capturing the fiery, aromatic sugo that dances on the palate. The vibrant colors and rich aromas invite a sensory exploration that is both comforting and invigorating.

Grilled Oregon Albacore, mix heirloom rainbow, Underwood Farms corn. The albacore, perfectly charred, offers a rich, buttery flavor that harmonizes beautifully with the sweetness of the heirloom rainbow vegetables. Each bite is a delightful contrast of textures, with the tender fish yielding to the crisp, vibrant crunch of the corn, while the dish is elevated by its vivid presentation and the earthy aroma of the fresh produce.

Homemade sausage and peppers, Black Cherokee pomodoro. Beef meatballs San Marzano ragu sauce. More deep Southern Italian flavors. The vibrant red of the pomodoro sauce contrasts beautifully with the golden-brown sausage, while the meatballs are enveloped in a rich, aromatic ragu that hints at basil and garlic. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory and slightly sweet notes, with the textures ranging from succulent meat to the tender crunch of sautéed peppers, creating a delightful medley of flavors that evoke the heart of Italian cuisine.

NY Steak, Roma fra diavolo, Jimmy Nardello peppers. This dish presents a stunning interplay of charred, smoky aromas and vibrant colors, with the rich marbling of the steak harmonizing beautifully with the sweet heat of the fra diavolo sauce. Each bite reveals a tender, juicy texture, perfectly complemented by the slight crunch of the roasted Jimmy Nardello peppers, creating a delightful balance of flavor and mouthfeel.

The Sugo. A rich, slow-cooked tomato sauce that envelops the pasta in a warm embrace, showcasing the essence of ripe tomatoes and fragrant herbs. The deep crimson hue glistens invitingly, while the aroma teases the senses with hints of garlic and basil. Each spoonful delivers a harmonious balance of acidity and sweetness, the velvety texture clinging beautifully to the al dente pasta, creating a comforting yet sophisticated dining experience.

Sal in the house!

Salvatore “Sal” Marino grew up in the dining room and kitchen of Marino Ristorante, the Melrose Avenue landmark his father, Ciro, established for Hollywood’s studio crowd in the early 1980s. After bussing tables as a boy, Sal decamped to Italy in his twenties, staging at Michelin-starred temples such as San Domenico in Imola and Aimo e Nadia in Milan, before returning to Los Angeles for tours at Patina and Valentino. In 1997 he opened his own Westside restaurant, Il Grano, where his four-dozen backyard tomato varieties and seafood crudi earned him invitations to cook at the James Beard House and repeated spots on Jonathan Gold’s “Essential” lists. When Il Grano closed, he folded that produce-driven ethos back into the family flagship, taking over day-to-day command of Marino Ristorante while his brother Mario runs the deep, Italy-leaning wine cellar.

Marino’s cooking marries Southern Italian roots with the seasonal rhythms of California and a precision he picked up from watching sushi masters at Tsukiji Market. The menu pivots nightly around whatever he’s harvested from the family garden or bought that morning at the docks—think raw Santa Barbara spot prawns laced with Sicilian olive oil, spaghetti alla chitarra tossed with thirty-second-old tomato passata, or veal cheek agnolotti finished with Meyer-lemon zest. Restraint is the signature: two or three perfect ingredients, minimally manipulated, allowed to taste of themselves. Accolades have followed that clarity—Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence for the cellar, frequent “Best Italian” nods from the L.A. Times and Los Angeles Magazine, and a loyal clientele that spans studio moguls, neighborhood regulars, and visiting chefs on their night off.

Guiding it all is Marino’s conviction that food is first an act of stewardship. He buys whole local fish so every fin and bone can be used, composts kitchen trim back into the tomato beds, and insists on hand-rolling pasta to respect the grain. “If an ingredient is flawless,” he likes to say, “my job is simply not to ruin it.” That philosophy keeps the restaurant both rooted—still unmistakably the warm, famiglia-run room Ciro opened—and unmistakably current, a place where tradition and L.A.’s restless freshness sit comfortably at the same white-table-clothed table.

Sal’s Grilled Cheese with Tomatoes. Incredible. This dish presents a harmonious blend of golden-brown, crisped bread enveloping a luscious, melted cheese that oozes with each bite. The vibrant burst of ripe tomatoes adds a refreshing acidity, balancing the rich, savory notes, while the aroma of toasty bread wafts tantalizingly, inviting you to indulge in its comforting embrace.


This was a really great meal. Not only was it one of the best I’ve had at Marino’s in a long time, but it was just so tomato—in a great way—and I’m not even that much of a tomato person.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Tomato Night at Il Grano
  2. Whacky Wednesday – Argana Tree
  3. Momo Wednesday
  4. Happy Hibi
  5. Molti Marino
By: agavin
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Happy Hibi

May24

Restaurant: Hibi

Location: 1234 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90019. (323) 123-4567

Date: August 15, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Korean

Rating: Really creative

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Hibi, a notable addition to the Los Angeles dining scene, opened its doors in 2021, quickly establishing itself as a culinary gem in the heart of the city. Owned by a passionate team of chefs and restaurateurs, Hibi embodies a commitment to seasonal and sustainable ingredients, drawing inspiration from both traditional Japanese and Korean cuisine and contemporary culinary techniques. The restaurant’s name, which translates to “day” in Japanese, reflects its philosophy of celebrating the everyday joys of food.

The design and ambience of Hibi contribute significantly to its appeal, creating a serene yet inviting atmosphere that encourages diners to relax and savor their meals. The interior is characterized by clean lines, natural materials, and a warm color palette, evoking a sense of tranquility reminiscent of traditional Japanese aesthetics. Soft lighting and carefully curated decor enhance the dining experience, making it an ideal setting for both intimate dinners and lively gatherings. Hibi has quickly carved out a niche in the competitive Los Angeles food scene, attracting a diverse clientele that appreciates its dedication to quality and creativity.


K-town minimall.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a warm glow over the sleek facade of hibi, the air buzzed with anticipation for an evening of culinary exploration. Inside, the minimalist decor offered a serene backdrop to the vibrant dishes that would soon grace the table.

In the intimate ambiance of Hibi, where muted tones meet vibrant artistry, diners are enveloped in a tapestry of culinary exploration. The soft hum of conversation mingles with the occasional clink of glasses, as a deftly attired server glides between tables, delivering meticulously plated dishes that promise an exquisite journey of flavors. Guests, a diverse ensemble of food enthusiasts, lean in closer, their anticipation palpable as the rich aromas waft from the open kitchen, hinting at the chef’s dedication to seasonal ingredients and innovative techniques. Each sip of the carefully curated drink selection complements the unfolding feast, weaving together a narrative that celebrates both tradition and modernity in this contemporary dining haven.


We ordered the entire menu and then some.

Amuse of popcorn. A whimsical and delightful start to the meal, this playful dish elevates the humble popcorn to an art form. Each kernel, perfectly popped, offers a surprising crunch that contrasts beautifully with the silky, aromatic foam it’s nestled in. The subtle hints of truffle and sea salt dance on the palate, while the golden hue invites you to savor the experience, creating a nostalgic yet refined moment that lingers long after the last bite.

Seasonal oysters. Chamoe mignonette, hanaho. A hint of sweetness. The briny freshness of the oysters is beautifully complemented by the delicate acidity of the chamoe mignonette, while the hanaho adds an intriguing floral note. Each bite is a harmonious balance of sea and sweetness, with a silky texture that glides effortlessly across the palate.

Amberjack ceviche: yuzu cilantro leche de tigre, lotus root crisps, ikura. Tasty but small. The vibrant hues of the ceviche dance on the plate, with the bright yellow yuzu and green cilantro creating a visually stunning contrast. Each bite reveals the delicate texture of the amberjack, perfectly complemented by the crunchy lotus root crisps, while the umami-rich ikura adds a burst of briny flavor that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Charred gem: sesame, fried myulchee, pine nuts, cured egg yolk, parmigiano. Nice bit of salad. The charred gem lettuce offers a delightful crunch, its vibrant green leaves contrasting beautifully with the golden hue of the cured egg yolk. Each bite is a harmonious blend of nutty sesame and earthy myulchee, elevated by the creamy richness of parmigiano, creating a balanced dish that tantalizes the palate with its complex textures and flavors.

Blue prawn donuts, umeboshi créme, chives. Very tasty with a buttery quality. The delicate, golden-brown exterior gives way to a luscious, tender interior, while the umeboshi créme adds a tangy richness that perfectly balances the sweetness of the prawn. The bright green chives provide a fresh, herbaceous note that enhances the overall experience, making each bite a delightful interplay of flavors and textures.

Miso butter elote: Mendoza Farms corn, togarashi, lime. Great char flavor from the charcoal. The vibrant golden hue of the corn, kissed by the grill, creates a tantalizing contrast against the rich, umami-packed miso butter. Each bite delivers a delightful balance of sweet and savory, while the tangy lime adds a refreshing brightness that elevates the dish to new heights.

Ankimo Uni: Ankimo butter, bafun Hokkaido uni, gochujang sesame bread, confit heirloom tomatoes. Awesome. The dish presents a stunning interplay of colors, with the rich, creamy ankimo butter contrasting beautifully against the vibrant orange of the bafun uni. Each bite offers a luxurious umami depth, complemented by the subtle heat of gochujang and the sweet acidity of the confit heirloom tomatoes, creating a harmonious balance of flavor and texture that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Lamb rack katsu, makomo, matcha salt, curry. The curry really took this up several notches. Tasted very much like katsu curry. The delicate crust of the lamb offers a satisfying crunch, revealing tender, juicy meat beneath, while the fragrant matcha salt adds a subtle earthiness that beautifully complements the dish. The harmonious blend of spices dances on the palate, leaving a lingering warmth that elevates the entire experience.

Iberico pork belly, tsukemono, wasabina, fresh wasabi, doenjang rice. Tasty! The succulent Iberico pork belly presents a lustrous sheen, its rich marbling promising a melt-in-your-mouth experience. Accompanied by the crisp, tangy notes of tsukemono and the peppery freshness of wasabina, each bite is a harmonious interplay of textures and flavors, crowned by the earthy depth of doenjang rice that grounds the dish beautifully.

In the softly lit corner of the elegant dining room, a delicate mound of perfectly cooked rice takes center stage, its glistening grains reflecting the warm tones of the surrounding decor. Each bite promises a balance of subtle nutty flavors and an inviting creaminess that envelops the palate, a testament to the chef’s meticulous technique. This seemingly simple dish, elevated to an art form, invites conversation among guests, while the air is infused with the gentle hum of appreciation and the clinking of fine glassware, hinting at the exquisite pairings to come.

Seasonal Catch: sautéed turnips, minari, aonori black sesame rice. This dish presents a harmonious balance of earthiness and umami, with the sautéed turnips offering a tender, golden-brown exterior that gives way to a creamy interior. The vibrant green minari adds a fresh, herbaceous note, while the aonori black sesame rice introduces a delightful crunch and a subtle nuttiness, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate.

In the heart of the bustling restaurant, a delicate bowl of steamed rice emerges, its surface dusted with a vibrant green matcha powder and a sprinkle of black sesame seeds, inviting both the eye and the palate.

Tteokbokki: seasonal mushrooms, shallots, mushroom beurre blanc, perilla. The buttery sauce here was incredible on everything else. The dish presents a stunning interplay of earthy umami from the mushrooms, complemented by the subtle sweetness of shallots and the aromatic lift of perilla. Each bite is a harmonious blend of textures, with the tender rice cakes enveloped in a silky, rich sauce that lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor every nuance.

Peach ice cream with crunchy cinnamon. Delicious combo. I may have to try this. The velvety smoothness of the peach ice cream is beautifully contrasted by the delightful crunch of cinnamon, creating a harmonious balance of creamy sweetness and warm spice. As the golden-hued dessert melts in your mouth, the fragrant aroma of ripe peaches mingles with the earthy notes of cinnamon, offering a refreshing yet comforting experience for the senses.


The young and very friendly chef. He used to be at Kinn. Hibi was quite excellent. Lots of flavor and bright, focused food. We will have to be back for an even more epic dinner.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Happy Table – New Bay is Old Bay
  2. Happy at Happy Harbor
  3. Happy Table 2X
  4. DimSumQuest – Happy Harbor
  5. Lunch Quest – Happy Valley Village
By: agavin
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Foodie KinKan

Nov29

Restaurant: KinKan LA

Location: 771 N Virgil Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90029. (323) 421-3771

Date: May 24, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese / Thai inflected Fusion

Rating: I’m not sure I’ve had Japanese / Thai like this before…

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Erick paved the way with this very interesting Thai / Japanese tasting menu place.


On the sketchy street in Silverlake.

Cute little space but surprisingly empty.


Complementary sake.


DASHI MARINATED IKURA ON NORI TARTLET (left) and Thai larb – dry-aged chutoro almond tartlet (right).

hotaru Iika skewer (firefly squid) with sweetened Thai seafood sauce.

UNI MARTINI WITH ONSEN TAMAGO AND DASHI BROTH.


HAMACHI CRUDO with special seafood sauce.

UME BLOSSOM SOMEN with mango ika, shirasu, fish curry.


SAZAE (JAPANESE SEA SNAIL) FISH BROTH MISO-TOM YUM SOUP and special pink pasta.


SAKE STEAMED LIVE HAIRY CRAB, CAVIAR.

BANGLADESH PRAWN. mentaiko pasta with sesame & chili-garlic sauce.

BINCHOTAN OLIVE-FED A5 WAGYU BEEF (double portion).


Lychee gel and granite.


A really fun meal with interesting Thai/Japanese omakase, great flavors, great wines, and awesome company.

Superb.

A bit more oxidative but lovely.

Intense, fresh, sweet tarts and good weight.

Kind of massive but drinking well.

Lovely, but young.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Foodie Club at Spago
  2. N/Naka Reprise
  3. Ima Had Too Much Meat
  4. Final Kinn
  5. Food as Art – Corridor 109
By: agavin
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Vespertine 2.0

Nov19

Restaurant: Vespertine [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 3599 Hayden Ave, Culver City, CA 90232. (323) 320-4023

Date: April 19, 2024

Cuisine: Jordan merges back in Meteora ideas

Rating: Expensive, but flavors are better than old Vespertine

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Vespertine is a very unusual confluence of all sorts of artsy weirdness. It’s helmed by Jordan Kahn formerly of Red Medicine and currently of Destroyer across the street. I’ve generally been fond of Jordan’s unique culinary style. Post-pandemic he opened Meteora and has now (finally) reopened Vespertine proper.


Above is the building where the restaurant is located
After a lengthy 4+ year “break” Vespertine is back as Vespertine 2.0. The first floor looks about the same.


A slightly sweet Birch water. Very mild.

Supplements.

The menu.

We went for the rather excellent expensive wine pairing because the BYOB policy is pretty bad — one bottle.


Wild Scallop. Passionfruit, aji amarillo. Very strong high acid sour passionfruit cut through the richness of the scallop nicely.



Spring. Peas, wild onion. The description doesn’t quite reveal even a fraction of the contents, taste, or texture of this flower garden. I think some kind of almond cream stuck it to the bowl.


Deep Ocean. Sweet prawn, quince. Very bright intriguing “broth” taste. Hard to place.






Obsidian Mirror. Smoked mussel, plum. Very soft moussy texture and great flavors. Sweet and briney.




The Deep Seven. Ula’ula koae, red papaya. Some kind of ultrarare deep sea fish.



Coturnix Quail. Heather, sacred pepper. The first of several quail dishes, this was super succulent with the rich “beurre blanc – esque” sauce.






Quail Liver. Pickled forest leaves. A quail dolmade? Very smokey.

Porridge Bread. Heirloom peel corn oats. The fried bread was used to wipe up the liver spread (and flowers).

Fried bread.

Cody, the Somm at this other table.



Aged Dairy Calf. Yeast fudge, magnolia. Succulent, rare, veal. Almost felt like cubes of med rare pork chop.

T

Red Earth. Pumpkin, strawberry. Super smokey baked/roasted yam. Very very Jordan dish.


After the savory we moved back downstairs for dessert.

Jordan said this was Rasmus Munk — if so he gained A LOT of wait.

The tea menu.


T

Temple Mist. Light green tea.





Lamb Fat Pancake. Caramelized maple, woodruff. A sort of fatty beneit / fat glazed donut with a maple cream. Pretty delicious, if slightly oddly meaty.





Special dessert of Uni, old PX, and some other stuff. Oddly, this totally worked.

Icy Birch. Milk jam, tiger nut. Very Jordan. Super cool and mild. Almost like plain ice.




Layers. Black raspberry, tonka bean. This was an amazing dessert. Nice texture with crunch, softness, and chew. But super delicious. I ate half of Erick’s too, despite the sugar.

cherimoya. Very interesting complex fruit flavors, the usual odd texture.

Amazing meal — but eek! Overall the food was some of the best Jordan has ever done. It was less sweet and cloying, totally weird and unique, but consistently delicious. Quantity of savory was a bit low. Service was excellent, especially Cody’s wine service. His high end wine tasting is a fabulous pairing over very nice wines — and this is tough food to pair. There was a somewhat anoying 1:15 stall between the last savory and the desserts. I was getting pretty antsy.

And we weren’t even that full so we stopped at a taco shake for some authentic $2 street tacos! At the opposite price point.

Seething meats all set for the chopping.

Chop, chop!

El Pastor.

Micro tortillas.

Basic street tacos. El pastor, chorizo, and brisket.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Vespertine does Alinea
  2. Vespertine at Home
  3. Food as Art – Vespertine
  4. Down the White Rabbit Hole
  5. Return of the Khan — Meteora
By: agavin
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Game Night at STK

Nov12

Restaurant: STK Westwood

Location: 930 Hilgard Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90024. (310) 659-3535

Date: April 12 & Oct 26, 2024

Cuisine: Steak house

Rating: Excellent neighborhood Italian

_

Erick put together this game guy dinner at the Westwood STK. This is similar too, but different location than the older Hollywood location.

The menu.

Bread with blu cheese butter.


Tuna Tartare. hass avocado – taro chips – soy-honey emulsion.

Maple & Bourbon Nueske’s Bacon. apple cabbage slaw – pickled mustard seeds.

Crispy Calamari. basil – shishito peppers – roasted garlic & lime aioli – asian chili sauce.

Baby Gem Caesar. parmigiano reggiano – lemon black pepper emulsion – herb crouton.

Filet with mushrooms and pepper sauce.

Porterhouse with flavored butters.

Filet with au poivre sauce.

Dry-Aged Delmonico oscar style.

Filet with caramelized onions and au poivre.

Dry aged ribeye with onions and butter.

Flaming!

Maybe a NY.

Sauces.

Asparagus.

Corn pudding.

Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes.

Mashers “fully loaded”.

Creamed spinach.

Confit Mushrooms. bacon – cheese.

Mushrooms.


Bag O’ Donuts. cinnamon sugar – dulce de leche – raspberry – chocolate. and an Apple Pie. cinnamon crumble – maple crème fraiche

Fun night. Very heavy!

Food here is pretty good. Service is friendly but “confused.” On a second visit in October 2024 they kept bringing things way late and forgetting dishes. They have the typical problem as of late where you rarely see the server, only the runners who do not respond to requests, merely deliver.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Shin Sen Gumi Skewer Night
  2. Bistro 1968 at Night
  3. Late Night Longo
  4. Yunnan Night
  5. Friday Night Heights – Shabbat Dinner
By: agavin
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Yangban Society

Nov10

Restaurant: Yangban

Location: 712 S Santa Fe Ave Los Angeles, CA 90021. (213) 866-1987

Date: April 11, 2024

Cuisine: Korean Deli Fusion?

Rating: Really tasty!

_

I’ve wanted to try this well reviewed Korean and “Deli?” Fusion for a long time.


Yangban, the genre-defying Korean American culinary ‘conversation’, which opened in Los Angeles’ Arts District, re-opens after a transformative interior overhaul of the space, revealing an evolution of the highly acclaimed restaurant. Now featuring a full-service dining room and updated food and beverage programs, the concept remains at its core a Modern-Korean American restaurant as told through the lens of husband-and-wife chefs Katianna and John Hong.

Yangban is down near Bestia. In the Arts District.





The complex menu of small dishes.

Large and attractive (if dark) interior.


Golden Hokkaido Scallop Toast. Hokkaido scallop, brown butter, YANGBAN makgeolli, cherry tomato, golden sauce, cured egg yolk. Very crunchy toast with a delicious — and rich — dynamite-style scallop goo.

Wagyu Stuffed Perilla Leaf. vermicelli, beef fat tare, cotija. Crunchy!

Acorn Beignet. caramelized onion, gruyere, Benton’s ham.

Pretty yummy.

Blue Crab Tostada. gochujang, perilla, red leaf lettuce, creme fraiche. Very bright flavors and great textures.

Squashini Jeon. whipped creme fraiche, trout roe. Soft and vaguely Jewish in flavor.

Banchan. selection of side dishes highlighting local produce.

Brokaw Avocado & Shinko Pear. hot mustard, California almonds, toasted ggim, yeast.

YANGBAN Kimchi. Kae Sung Market, habanero, roasted sesame oil.

Honey Glazed Carrots. whipped yogurt, fresh date, walnut oil, herbs. Sweet and crunchy.

Grilled Cucumber. celery, YANGBAN chili oil, toasted cumin, meyer lemon juice.

Steamed Broccoli. yuzu, chicken skin furikake.

Green Tea Leaf Salad. gem lettuce, green cabbage, buchu, seasoned spinach, cucumber, tomato, snap peas, edamame, herbs and seeds, nokcha-lemon vinaigrette. Looked a bit deconstructed.

But tasted quite nice with a bright vinegrette.

Tteok. king trumpet and shimeji mushrooms, doenjang cream, preserved black truffle. Basically tasted like clam chowder. Super creamy. Super rich. And interesting deep chew from the rich cakes.

Matzoh Ball Mandu. stuffed with Grandma Sindy’s matzoh ball, chicken broth, shmaltz. I liked the texture but the shmaltz factor was a bit strong — too chickeny.

YANGBAN Wings. cucumber and Korean radish pickles, kimchi hot sauce, black rice. Amazing wings. Super sweet and crunchy. Great with the hot sauce.

The wings were served with the pickles and hot sauce.

Pickles. I love pickles.

Hot sauce.

Steamed Black Cod. pea shoots and flowers, chive, yuja, ginger, brown butter, onion soubise. Soft and buttery.

Grilled King’s Cut Short Rib. potato puree, grilled king trumpet and shiitakes, galbi jus, toasted breadcrumb, horseradish, chive. Meat was great. Very sweet.

YANGBAN Cheesecake. coconut biscuit and brown butter crust, coconut cream, local cherry jam. Amazing cherry cheesecake. Totally addictive.

Sesame cookies.

Overall the food here is great. Really interesting meld of flavors. Very bright and tasty. A lot of sugar though. Portions are small. This whole meal was two of us — and we had doubles of many dishes — and the kitchen closed before we got full! But highly recomended.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Flores & the Ladies’ Gunboat Society
  2. Final Kinn
By: agavin
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