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Archive for Wine – Page 3

Feel the Mistral

Jun18

Restaurant: Mistral

Location: 13422 Ventura Blvd, Sherman Oaks, CA 91423. (818) 981-6650

Date: August 1, 2023

Cuisine: French

Rating: Old school, but good

_

I haven’t been to Mistral in a long long time. It’s an old school Sherman Oaks French place, common in the 90s but now a nearly vanished breed.
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Tonight was a hybrid of Hedonists and George who has been going here for decades.
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We had this lovely patio table.
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They turned the parking lot into patio during the pandemic.
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Bread.
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Gougères. Always yummy.
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Tartar of “Sushi Grade” Ahi Tuna, Toast Points, Cucumber Rounds. Solid.
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French Fries. Great crispy thin French style fries.
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Ketchup and mustard.
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Shrimp “Scampi” in a Beurre Blanc sauce. Really great lemon butter white wine sauce and fresh shrimp. Quite nice.
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Wild Burgundy Escargots “A la Bourguignonne”. These were served on a bit of risotto. I prefer them in the classic manner, good for bread dipping. I think that’s what you normally get when you order then here, but they did this little variant given our large table size.
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Crab Cake. Lovely soft crab cake with leeks and another (different) butter sauce. Quite delicious.
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Moroccan Cigars, Green Yogurt with Fresh Mint, Salad of Cucumbers and Greens. Little beef rolls. Delicious with the yougurt based sauce.
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Salad of Mixed Greens with Warm Goat Cheese Croutons.
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Classic French Onion Soup “Gratinée”.
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A very nice rendition of the classic. Totally the “classic way” — which is how it should be.

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Crisp Duck Confit, Orange Grand Marnier Sauce. Chives Whipped Potato, Roasted Brussels sprouts. Very nice confit. Slightly sweet reduction was excellent.
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New York Steak, Sliced Garlic, Parsley and Butter. 14 oz. USDA Prime, French Fries and Green Salad.
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Steak au Poivre with the sauce on the side.
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Au poivre sauce — delicious.
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Lamb shank with risotto. Not as good as the confit or steak. Risotto wasn’t creamy enough.
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Grilled Lamb Chops, Thyme, Rosemary, Garlic and Bread Crumbs. Potatoes au Gratin, Green Beans, Rainbow Carrots.
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Fresh Peach & Strawberry Cobbler, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream.
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Berries and cream.
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Chocolate Soufflé. House Whipped Cream.
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Pistachio Chocolate Fudge Gelato – a new high nut and no egg formulation with Pistachio di Bronte DOGC produces an intense pistachio base, mixed with Valrhona 70% Chocolate Ganache — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #pistachio #Sicily #nuts #Valrhona #Chocolate #Ganache
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Overall, a very fun evening. Food was surprisingly good. Slightly dated class “LA French”, but it was very fresh and well executed.

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For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Tai Siu is New
  2. Gaja at Charcoal
  3. So Can Though
  4. Thai Tour – Night+Market Song
  5. Favori Dinner
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Gelato, hedonists, Wine

Majordomo 2023

Jun06

Restaurant: Majordomo [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

Location: 1725 Naud St, Los Angeles, CA 90012 (323) 545-4880

Date: July 17, 2023

Cuisine: Korean Fusion

Rating: Big dishes amazing

_

It’s with gigantic expectation that NY restaurateur David Chang opened his first LA outpost last year and since then it’s become a regular foodie and wine destination among my friends. Tonight is my sixth visit, and my third time with the Hedonists. It’s pretty much a summer tradition now.

Looking on the map, I was pretty skeptical of the weird between Chinatown and Dodger’s Stadium location — a totally annoying spot for me to get to during traffic! Two brutal hours!

The area is extremely warehousey, much like the “Arts District” but even newer.  This particular time, dropping off at night, we joked about our life expectancy.           

The have a sort of hipster city built down here out of old warehouses.

With lots of bespoke graffiti.

And Majordomo, of course.

Which has a pretty big enclosed and outside space (which we ate in this third time). Have to say, the outside space was actually preferable. Less crowded and quieter.

As you can see.

Inside is one of those cavernous loud warehouse spaces.

High naked ceilings. Don’t come here when it’s raining! They also have the currently hip bathroom setup with the coed shared sinks exposed out in the main room. Not my thing. What if you want to clean up in private?

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image
But we setup outside on the patio at a large table (actually the 2022 pic).

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The menu.
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Crudo plate.
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Tuna Tataki. Honey, citrus, habanero. More sweet than spicy.
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Yellowtail special crudo. Kinda bland actually.
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Dungeness Crab Salad – ginger, melon, asparagus. Nice, with a sweet and tangy flavor. Very crabby.
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Bing plate. This pita-like bread is spread as desired with the ordered condiments.
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Lady Edison Country Ham. Very tasty ham. Like American prosciutto.
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The actual bings (very addictive).
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Whipped Ricotta, Jam, Chili Crunch. This was a really tasty blend of soft cheese, aged strawberry jam, and the chili. Very interesting blend and quite effective.
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Smoked Eggplant & Pine Nut. Tasty.
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Butter, Honey, Black Truffle. Delicious combo — although sweet, of course.
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Heirloom Tomatoes – sherry vinaigrette, stone fruit, sesame.
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Grilled Yu Choy – yogurt, plum, chickpea. I didn’t actually try the veggies (they were gone) but the yogurt had a delicious and very interesting flavor.
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Clam Lo Mein – garlic, thai chili, lemon. A nice pasta.
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Fried Shrimp – salsa seca, walnuts, honey. Really delicious shrimp. I had like a third of a plate. Quite sweet, garlicky, and a touch spicy.
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Crispy Potatoes – garlic, chili, lemon mayo. These were awesome. The potatoes were incredibly crispy and coated in a very “Buffalo Wing” style sauce. The sea of lemon mayo was extremely ranch-like and so the overall vibe was like a much better, much crispier, “Buffalo Wing” kind of thing.
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Smoked Half Bo Ssäm – (feeds 4-5) ssam, condiments, rice.
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Condiments for the pork. Hoisin and pickles. You make a lettuce wrap (I didn’t use the rice). Some argued that the pork was a little dry, but I didn’t think so if you loaded enough moist pickles etc in there. Very rich and satisfying.
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Rice.
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One of these snuck in.
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Whole Plate Short Rib – (feeds 5-6) ssam, condiments, beef rice.

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The short rib all sliced up. Awesome thin slices and great tasting, but a bit chewy meat on the bone.

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Various condiments for the beef. Pickles, spicy Korean chili paste etc
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Veggie wraps.
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An example of a “taco.” Then the ribs themselves are added on. Overall this is scrumptious meat, particularly when wrapped in lettuce with all the condiments. Like a great BBQ Brisket.
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Beef rice. Very tasty — rich of course.
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Smoked Prime Rib – au jus, horseradish, BS fries. This was the best prime rib I’ve ever had. So so much better than regular prime rib with that fantastic smoked flavor. Super tender too.
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Horseradish.
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BS fries. Very good, particularly with the sauces.
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Béarnaise sauce.
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Boiled Whole Chicken – rice, domojang, ginger scallion, hand torn noodle, soup. Very tender and delicious. Some fabulous moist chicken breast with a lot of flavor (both types).

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Hand torn noodle, soup. Actually pretty awesome — even if we were all very full — with a great pepper flavor. Like the peppery version of classic chicken noodle soup.
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Back from Türkiye with a new flavor — Sultan’s Delight — Iranian Saffron base with house-made Pistachio Cremino, Chopped Pistachios, and Rose-Water Pistachio Turkish Delight — many ingredients from the Istanbul Spice Bazaar — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #saffron #pistachio #cremino #TurkishDelight #Türkiye
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Wines for the night. Thank the lord we ditched all those over-saturated SQNs.
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Yarom dual wields the bones.

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Overall, we had a great time at Majordomo. You do need a decent sized party for the awesome large dishes and you need to preorder. Tonight we had 8, which is perfect as the big dishes easily go around 8 ways and the smaller ones you can order two of. The prime rib was amazing too.

The service and wine service were both spectacular. I was really surprised as these loud hipster places often don’t have good wine service but we were really taken care of and this added a lot to the evening. We had a great (large) table in the back corner of the patio and a huge unused table next to it for our gear, wines, etc. They were super attentive. Really unusually good service for this level.

The larger pre-order dishes like the rib and pork and chicken are amazing and insane. We planned on also getting the chicken, but we were so stuffed we had to cancel it. Tonight the food seemed the best yet, even if we did have a lot of (delicious) carbs. Pastas and the fried rice were amazing too. Really liking everything about Majordomo other than the distance to get there — well and maybe how I felt trying to sleep later after all that fat, salt, and massive red wine.

So good to not have the SQNs and return to some decent wines.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or for epic Foodie Club meals, here.

Related posts:

  1. Thirds at Majordomo
  2. Hedonistic Majordomo
  3. Is Majordomo a Major Deal?
  4. Major Major Major
  5. Spanish Sauvages 2023
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: bbq, BYOG, Gelato, hedonists, Majordomo, Meat, Wine

Brothers Dom

Mar10

Restaurant: The Brothers Sushi Santa Monica [1, 2, 3]

Location: 1008 Montana Ave #1, Santa Monica, CA 90403. (424) 330-0270

Date: June 6, 2023

Cuisine: Modern Sushi

Rating: Awesome (and close)!

_

Our Foodie Gang has been going to the incredible “The Brothers Sushi” in the valley for some time now, and it was with much glee that we welcomed in the brand new (and somewhat delayed) Montana Santa Monica location. Now it’s become a bit of a staple spot for us.
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The space used to be the repulsive Louise’s Trattoria, serving not exactly Italian for decades. But Brother’s has given it a major new makeover.

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The build out is gorgeous. Here the bar is for omakase only and the tables are for à la carte only.
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Chef Mark Okuda on the left and his chef de cuisine Moriyuki Kanamaru.

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Oyster with yuzu, shiso, and sea salt. Bright and lovely.
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Firefly squid, basil udon, and tomato. The basil udon (more a spaghetti) was amazing.
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Sea bream with transparent shrimp, lotus root. Steamed with seaweed dashi. Very light and delicate.
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Smoked baby bluefin tuna with wasabi. Strong smoke flavor (which I like).
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What is Larry learning?
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Chawanmushi with hairy crab, Hokaido uni, shiso, and sweet corn. Soft and delectable.
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Maryland soft shell crab. Very zesty and lovely miso dressing.
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Saba. Nice and oily.
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Cherry Salmon. Super soft and lightly smokey. Cured in kelp.
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Fan clam with Hokaido uni and salt. Very unusual and delciious.
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Tuna. Superb balance of soy and tuna flavors with a long briny finish.
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Goldeneye snapper.
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Dry aged o-toro. So good. Just incredible.
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Wagyu truffle.
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WOTN — haha.
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Shima aji.
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Uni risotto with sea perch, ikura, and wasabi. Unique and wonderful.
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Another o-toro — had to do it!
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Sea Eel.
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Negi toro handroll. Incredible.
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Clam miso.
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Uni crab handroll. Lots of uni!
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Strawberry Jam Gelato — an awesome dairly Strawberry base swirled with Strawberry Jam — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — sugar time! — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #strawberry #jam
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Sweet milk strawberry gelato with Harry’s Berries and a jelly.
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Roasted Tea.

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Overall an incredible night of incredible eats and some really fabulous wine. Lots and lots of P2! These were all so young, even the 96s! The 2008 1996 had a little age on it, but still.
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Overall, another perfect night of sushi and champagne!

Instantly Brother’s Santa Monica has leapt into the top tier of westside sushi bars along with Miyagi and Shunji. It’s combination of perfect nigri and very refined “other dishes” are really great. It’s slightly different from woodland hills in personality, with some dishes in common and some specific to each — just enough to keep things interesting.

For more Sushi dining reviews click here.

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Related posts:

  1. Coche In at Brothers Santa Monica
  2. Brothers Sushi Two
  3. Food as Art – The Brothers Sushi
  4. Let’s Go Again
  5. Sasabune – Dueling Omakases
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Brothers Sushi, BYOG, Dom Pérignon (wine), Gelato, Montana, Santa Monica, Sushi, Wine

Another 71 Above

Feb29

Restaurant: 71Above [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14]

Location: 633 W 5th St., Los Angeles, CA 90071

Date: May 28, 2023

Cuisine: New American

Rating: Awesome in all ways

_

71Above is one of my favorite LA restaurants and I’ve been many times. In fact there are 10 previous write ups! Original Chef Vartan Abgaryan has moved on to his own new place, Yours Truly (which the pandemic has sadly done in), and 71Above is now seamlessly helmed by his disciple, Chef Javier Lopez. Today is another family birthday here.

Besides being located on the 71st floor (950 feet up!) of the US Bank building, being the highest restaurant west of the Mississippi, it’s owned and operated by my friend Emil Eyvazoff!

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On one of these visits, Emil gave me a quick tour of their new “patio” on the 70th floor below where they are serving up Mezzes and drinks.

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Gorgeous build out upstairs for the main event.
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Look at the crazy view and the crazy fog on this weird spring night.
The pre-lunch crowd.

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The room.
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The menu.
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Bread Service. Cultured Butter.
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Amuse of “spicy” ginger soup.
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Caviar Service. Kaluga, 28 Grams, Blini, Egg Yolk Jam, Chives.
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On the house!
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Hiramasa Crudo. Passion Fruit, Mandarin, Avocado, Jicama, Furikake, Cilantro, Habanero.
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Spring Farm Salad. Lettuces, Market Vegetables, Seeds, Goat Cheese, Kumquat Vinaigrette.
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Fingerling Potato. Trout Roe, Leek, Bonito Butter, Lemon, Sesame Bread Crumbs, Dill, Chives.
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Simple pasta.
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Casarecce Pasta. King Trumpet, Hazelnut, Truffle, Kale, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Green Garlic.
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Ōra King Salmon. English Pea Ragù, Carrot, Yuzu Kosho, Citrus, Pine Nut, Green Garlic, Mint.
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Heritage Pork Loin. Pork Fritter, Celery Root Purée, Escarole, Cherry Relish, Fennel, Meyer Lemon.
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Grilled Ribeye. Charred Broccolini, Crispy Shallot, Date Purée, Macadamia, Ju.
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My son’s favorite — Triple Chocolate Cloud Gelato – The base is made this time with Valrhona 70% Guanaja Chocolate and then layered with Dark Chocolate Cream Cheese Ganache, and chopped Oreos! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #Valrhona #chocolate #oreos #ganache #icing

Coconut Crunch Gelato — Coconut dairy custard base with Strawberry Wafers and house-made White Chocolate Coated Crunch Berries — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #coconut #crunch #crunchBerries #WhiteChocolate
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Guava Granita. Cream Cheese Cremeux, Kataifi, Strawberry Gel & Sorbet.
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Chocolate Cremeux. Peanut Butter Crumble, Graham Cracker, Marshmallow Fluff & Ice Cream.
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Cheese Plate. Pecora Nocciola, Briana, Tea Rose, Shabby Shoe, Reverie, Seasonal Accompaniments.
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Rose Water Pavlova. Orange-Saffron Curd, Whipped Mascarpone.
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Petite Fours.

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Heading down!

Overall, 71Above is just a seriously well conceived and executed one-of-a-kind restaurant. Really, it’s more like a NY, Singapore, or Tokyo kind of concept. First of all, the view is just awesome. I can’t wait to come back on a really clear day. Particularly once they begin brunch service, a nice winter day will offer an observation deck like panorama.

But then Emil and crew built out such a lovely space to capture the drama. It’s modern, but welcoming. Not too loud, you can hear the conversation and the music both. And from when you enter off the double elevator ascent it folds from one experience to another: lounge, dining room, more intimate corridors, chef table, quiet and romantic view areas in the back, and a series of two adjustable private dining rooms. The attention to architectural detail is amazing.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Noodle Harmony
  2. Szechuan Impression Tustin
  3. Heroic Beef
  4. Soot Bull Jeep
  5. DRC at 71Above
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: 71above, birthday, Wine

No Funk at Funke

Feb18

Restaurant: Funke

Location: 9388 S Santa Monica Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (424) 279-9796

Date: May 23, 2023

Cuisine: Modern Italian

Rating: Great pasta. Salty!

_

Funke is the latest from the pasta master at Felix and Motherwolf.
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Funke is located on Little Santa Monica right near Il Pastaio.
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Fancy Beverly Hills frontage.
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Lots of good wine, and not a crazy markup, maybe 2-3X. Of course, this is painful with a Gaja or something. And they have the really annoying 2 bottle limit. As usual this made us spend LESS money than if they hadn’t had the limit. We just drank less wine.
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Downstairs bar. There is also a big roof bar.
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Special pasta room.
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Stuffed pasta!
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The empty main dining room. The place is huge as there are several.
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The big kitchen (empty now).
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We took the elevator upstairs.
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Big upstairs area and more bars!
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Private dining room with this huge table. We were tucked in the corner here. Nice and quiet, the way we like it.
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The menu. Lots of overlap with Felix and Mother Wolf.
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From their list. High acid with nice minerality.
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Fiori di Zucca. Squash Blossom, ricotta fresca, parmigiano reggiano, sea salt. Quite good, and very delicate, but odd without any kind of sauce.
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Polpette della Maestra Alessandra. Sugo di pomodoro, english peas, parmigiano reggiano. Solid meatballs, great sauce. The balls were salty. Hey, everything at Funke is really salty. They were a bit chewier too then I like, but the meaty flavor was great.

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Frisella Pugliese. Burrata pugliese, psring vegetables, extra virgin olive oil. This was a weird burrata dish. It was on a crispy bread/pizza/thing. It was tasty, but who needed more carbs? Burrata was great. Spring veggies were great. Herbs (like mint) were fabulous. The whole thing was messy though, fell all over the table as we tried to cut it.

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Misticanza. Lettuces, wild and cultivated greens, herbs, flowers, condimento di lambrusco. Very lovely salad. Felt fresh and healthy.

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Pizza Boscaiola. Wild mushrooms, l’avarizia, salsiccia, parmigiano reggiano, finocchietto. The dough wasn’t that exciting. It was good, but not nearly as good as Bar Monette or anything. The mushrooms + sausage on a pizza, however, great!
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Troffie, Sori, Liguria, Sofia. Pesto Genovese, parmigiano reggiano, basil. Perfect classical rendition of this. Just like in Liguria except no potato or long beans. Great chew to the pasta and super bright basil flavor.

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Agnolotti dal Plin, Roddino, Piemonte, Gemma. Sugo di Arrosto, erbette chard, parmigiano reggiano. Perfect. Super salty butter pasta water emulsion sauce and delicate little “porky” pockets. Perfect.

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Orecchiette, Bari Vecchia, Puglia, Nunzia. Salsiccia, broccoletti, sugo di pomodoro, ‘nduja, pecorino pugliese. Great chew to the Orecchiette and a nice acidity and good sausage flavor. Very very salty again.
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Linguine alle Vongole. Aglio, olio, peperoncino, manila clams, vino bianco, parsley. Clams are much bigger than in Italy but the flavor was spot on, parsley forward, quite lovely. Extremely salty again.

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Mezze Maniche alla Gricia. Guanciale, black pepper, pecorino romano DOP. My favorite pasta as it was basically salty bacon, pecorino, and pork fat flavored. Increidbly salty. Like salty for salt. All those ingredients are salt forward.
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Scottadita di Agnello. New Zealand Lamb Rib Chops, cicoria bruciata, english peas, spring onions, green garlic, mint. Interesting prep covered in herbs. It was nice to have some more fresh herbs. This gave me a bit of Vietnamese vibe. The lamb itself was well cooked and delicious.
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The dessert menu.
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Mandorle Siciliano Gelato. Sicilian Almonds. I ordered this because at Sweet Milk Gelato several of my signature flavors are based on Sicilian Almonds. I have to say this wasn’t that exciting — i.e. mine are much better. I think they just used Mandorle Dolce (sweet almond). It’s pleasant and subtle, but I prefer Mandorle Tostate (toasted almonds) which just have more flavor.
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Cannoli Siciliani. Murray farm cherries, pistacchi di bronte. Madagascar chocolate. These were okay, but not amazing. I’m not sure I felt about the cherry thing, although it is in season. And the pistachios were rubbery and chewy intead of crunchy — pistachio foul!
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Crostata di Mirtilli. Puff pastry, sicilian almonds, crema di bergamotto. This was nice, although it tended to explode all over the place like any classic puff pastry.

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The trio of desserts.
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Some chocolate expresso truffles and almond “cakes.” The almond things were good, actually.
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Emotional Damage!
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Overall, Funke was quite good. Service was very nice and professional, and they certainly knew their menu. The wine director was very knowledgable and nice too — although I’m no fan of the 2 bottle limit (but I’m sure that comes from high on up). The wine list is small, nearly all Italian, and excellent. Prices aren’t bad. But having to buy from the list somewhat means we would buy less, and buy interesting cheaper wines instead of the kind of older big wines we often collect. They don’t even really have those older wines, only a few places like Capo do in LA. Food was excellent. It is VERY SALTY. I know all restaurants are pretty salty but they, like Felix and Mother Wolf, go to town with it. Very salty. It tastes good, but you can feel it. It’s also very carb forward, almost gratuitous. And while the menu is slightly bigger than either Felix or Mother Wolf, it’s essentially very similar. A big percentage, perhaps 50-70% of all dishes duplicate with the other restaurants. So to that effect you could eat at any one of the three and have essentially a very similar meal. At current, all three reservations aren’t so easy to get, very difficult for Funke and pretty darn hard for Mother Wolf — and these are large spaces — so they are clearly doing “something” right.
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For more dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Mother Wolf – Carb Coma
  2. Uovo – Italian Sugarfish
  3. Quick Eats – Pasta Sisters
  4. Reference Pasta – Cacio e Pepe
  5. Palmeri again
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Funke, italian, pasta, Wine

Gaja at Charcoal

Feb09

Restaurant: Charcoal Venice [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 425 Washington Blvd, Marina Del Rey, CA 90292. (310) 751-6794

Date: June 14, 2022

Cuisine: New American Grill

Rating: Some great meats

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Our second Gaja dinner of the Spring (there were rival factions). Back to Charcoal, a favorite.
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The menu.
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Bread with Beurre De Baratte
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smoked paprika mustard chimichurri, red wine chipotle bbq sauce, J-1 steak sauce, and charcoal marinade.
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Yellowfin Tuna, Pickled Cucumber, Avocado, Citrus Vinaigrette. Classic, but good. Kinda sweet.
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Sweet potato chips.
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Oysters on the Half Shell. Garnished Traditionally and Creatively. Nice small oysters.
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Very nice, tasted like Sav Blanc with a lot of petrol.
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Super hot, flabby, and tending toward sherry.
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Smoked Mushroom and Beet, Crème Fraiche, Currants. Tastes like liquid smoke, but really nice actually.
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Grilled bread.
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California Avocado Pesto, Cherry Tomatoes,Fresh Tagliatelle. Bright and enjoyable, but not as sexy/rich as a “normal” (very good) pesto.

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Some kind of shrimp special, with a salsa-like sauce.
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Gorgeous.
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Grilled Lamb Chops, Cilantro Mint Emulsion. Well cooked, very tender, and tons of flavor.
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Smoky Grilled Chicken Wings, Oregano, Chili, Vinegar. Good, but I like Vietnamese wings better. Still, these had a really great char flavor.
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21 Day Aged Half Liberty Duck, Honey, Coriander. Amazballs. Sweet but very ducky and delicious. Pretty stupendous tasting, if bad for the blood sugar.
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Cabbage Baked in the Embers, Yogurt, Sumac, Lemon Zest. Really great veggie.
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Coal Roasted Carrots, Sheep’s Milk Ricotta, Herbs, Honey, Black Pepper.
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Boneless ½ Chicken Salsa Verde. Some of the best straight chicken I’ve had in a while.
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Little Gems, Shaved Market Vegetables, Bread Crumbs, Grilled Scallion Vinaigrette. WIth the breadcrumbs on the side this was a very enjoyable bright salad.
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16 oz Prime Ribeye. Nice meat. Not overcooked at all 🙂
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Roasted Wild Mushrooms, Parsley Breadcrumbs, Fermented Garlic Dressing. Yum — and fiber too!
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Steak Fries with Ketchup, Mustard.
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Probably a bit cooked, but grapey and enjoyable to my taste.
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Chocolate Peanut Butter Crunch Cake, McConnell’s Double Peanut Butter Chip Ice Cream. Really nice.
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Apple Crumble, McConnell’s Vanilla Bean Ice Cream.
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Nocciola White Gelato — Nocciola (hazelnut) base made with Pure PGI Piedmont hazelnut paste mixed with house-made Valrhona White Chocolate Hazelnut Bark — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — one of my signature flavors –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #hazelnut #nocciola #white #Chocolate #bark
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Overall, a super fun evening. I liked the Gaja’s slightly better tonight than at the previous Gaja dinner. They were more differentiated. The San Lorenzos were my favorite actually, which makes sense, as they are softer.

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We became friendly with this mother/daughter pair at the next table.
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For more dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Charcoal Checkin
  2. Gaja at Locanda
  3. No. 1 Charcoal Really Is
  4. On Fire at Charcoal
  5. Charcoal – First Foray
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Charcoal, Gaja, Gelato, Wine

Northern Cafe Temple City

Jan26

Restaurant: Northern Cafe

Location: 9608 Las Tunas Dr, Temple City, CA 91780. (626) 286-5288

Date: May 5 & July 23, 2023

Cuisine: Northern Chinese

Rating: Great private room experience

_

Normal Northern Cafe is a solid but casual fast casual spot but…
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Northern Cafe in Temple City sure is a bit different than the ones in Century City or West LA as we shall see in this special dinner organized by Eve and another I put together myself.
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The normal dining room is fairly normal NC.
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But they have 5 private rooms, a smaller one being shown here.
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We set up in this larger one.
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It’s pretty big.
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It even has a bit of a lounge area, perfect for organizing our wines.
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I think this is the “regular” menu.

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And this epic tome is the special menu!

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Spicy Cucumbers. Nice garlicky cucumber salad.
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Cold Flavored Pork Head. Very chewy texture that was offputting to some with a lovely, but highly porcine, flavor.

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Up first came this big installment of Geoduck sashimi. This is the body meat and it was served on ice with Astrea Caviar that Eve brought. Turns out geoduck is excellent with caviar! And this was some very fine geoduck with a very clean mild sea flavor and a nice chewy texture.

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It was served with soy sauce and (faux) wasabi.

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We had pre-ordered several large live lobsters and the tails were served as sashimi. Probably the best “Chinese” lobster sashimi I’ve had. Quite lovely and subtle.
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Eve also brought her own King Crab! They sell it on the menu, but she BYOCed.
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King Crab Salty Egg Yolk. The crab might have been a touch overcooked in this prep but the yolk batter, which is not normally my favorite, was quite good as it wasn’t too salty or too pasty.
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Bamboo Shoot with Shredded Pork. I loved this dish. It was a pretty classic brown sauce, but very tasty, and the crunchy bamboo was delightful with that bit of porky flavor (classic Chinese velveted slivered pork).
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Pork Spareribs with Garlic. Chewy, salty, and very tasty.
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Pork and Scallion Pancake. This is a kind of classic Beijing meat pie with a filling that is probably the same as standard dumpling filling: pork, ginger, green onions. They were super greasy, but great.
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House Special Smoked Duck. It was served with a bit of hoisin and some Northern style pancakes. The meat was really flavorful, but VERY salty, almost to the Smithfield ham level. Speaking of that, because it was salted, smoked, and cured, it tasted not unlike ham — just ducky ham.
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This are the flaky pancakes for the duck.
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Next they brought out this lovely Cloisonné hot pot.
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This is the basic broth, but Eve ordered it as “mushroom chicken” and so…
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They added a mess of mushrooms and…
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Some raw chicken.
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This mix was allowed to boil for 20-30 minutes (covered).
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Here is the result.
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First we were served cups. The broth was incredible, with a very deep woodsy and comforting chicken and mushroom flavor. The short boil had extracted a lot of flavor.
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For extra things to add to our hot pot we kept it fairly simple, enjoying the legs of our crab. Boiled for 20-30 seconds they were incredibly sweet and succulent.

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These lobster “bits” were chopped up and reason to be tossed into the pot.
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Also some tofu.
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And greens. We kept drinking this broth (with the stuff) throughout the evening as it was delicious.

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As was this incredible delicious of live Grouper.
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The grouper meat cooked in a bout 30 seconds and was subtle and delicious.
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Rib Eye and Lamb Shoulder to boil in the pot. These meats, alone of what we had tonight, is better (IMHO) with the spicy broth served at various Sichuan hot pots.

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Some extra fish was also fried up “salt and pepper” style — aka MSG style.
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Clams with Basil. This is the classic Chiuchow dish that’s a bit Vietnamese/Cambodian. Some nice basil flavor and a good number of succulent clams. I enjoyed this, even if the clam meat was a bit evasive.
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Sauteed Cabbage. I always love this classic and it didn’t dissapoint. This was a simple rendition with a lot of garlic and oil, but cooked perfectly. It didn’t have either the ham (and its nice lardy flavor) or dried shrimp or chilis that some versions of the dish have, so it wasn’t the most flavorful I’ve ever had, but the crunchy texture on the oily cabbage was lovely.
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French Chopped Beef with snowflake. Chunks of filet with black bepper sauce. I don’t generally love this dish as I consider it a bit boring, but this one had a real black pepper kick which in combination with the onions was quite enjoyable.
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The geoduck neck came back fried. Quite nice, but not nearly as delightful a fry as the Longo version.
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Eve also brought not one but two Turbot!
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Turbo steamed with ginger, garlic, spring onions, and soy. This fish is best done this way, simply, so that the soft mild flesh and generous cartilage can be enjoyed “as is.”

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Crab Custard. This is the third dish from our King Crab.
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The custard was a bit stiff, and while still delicious, didn’t have that silken texture I really love.
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Yang Chow (or everything) fried rice. Absolutely awesome fried rice with big whole shrimp and chunks of fried pork.
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Walnut Shrimp. Fu ordered this guilty pleasure classic, joking that it was for the white guys, but this was a first rate example. The shrimp were succulent and the fry nice and crispy, perfectly offset by the sweet mayo and walnuts.
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Fried fish with green batter. This is a Hangzhou dish. There green tea is added to the batter. I’m not sure it was tea here or some other variant, but it was a nice tempura-style deep fried fish. Right out of the frier too as it was very hot and juicy.

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House Special Smoked Duck. Very salty, but very good. With that smokey cured pastrami-like flavor. Lots of “flavor.”
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Pea Tendrils with Garlic. Great version of this basic dish.
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MaPo Tofu. Not a bad version at all. Some Ma and a bit of meat.
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Beef & Scallion Roll. Awesome version of this with some hoisin and cilantro. Quite lovely.
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Boiled dumplings. Probably pork. Delicious for sure. I didn’t (finally) manage to get some black vinegar for them. Really I like a proper dumpling sauce, but vinegar will do.1A4A9212
XLB. Solid versions.
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Scallion pancake. Bready, but really tasty — particularly with some black vinegar.
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Inside.
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Pan fried dumplings. I’m not sure if this was the same filling. It was late, but they were also good. Skin was a little thick on these, not like the amazing You Kitchen variants, but like all decent dumplings they were hot and delicious.
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Nocciola Crunch Gelato — Nocciola (hazelnut) base made with egg yolk and Pure PGI Piedmont hazelnut paste mixed with Nestle’s Buncha Crunch — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — new higher fat base formulation — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #hazelnut #nocciola #Chocolate #Nestle #crunch
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Hojicha Latte NSA Gelato – Ceremonial Hojicha Roasted Green Tea base with No Sugar Added (Allulose) — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #matcha #Hojicha #GreenTea #Allulose #NSA

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Cannoli and Baklava’s Evil American Lovechild — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Base crafted from Galbani Whole Milk Ricotta and Sicilian Toasted Noto Romano Almond Paste with a touch of the sugar subbed out for Sicilian Honey. Mixed in is Malibu Honey, California Pistachios, and house-made Gluten Free Honey Graham Crackers (almond flour and so good you can’t tell them from the wheat flour version)! — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #dessertgasm #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #ricotta #almond #RicottaCheese #cheese #Sicily #honey #GrahamCracker #pistachio
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Cap’N Crunch Gelato – Smooth Peanut Base with house-made White Chocolate Coated Crunch Berries! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — oh my! — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #peanut #cereal #CrunchBerry #CapNCrunch
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Fu makes off with a bit of booty for the family.
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Meal 1 (May 2023), was a super fun night. Awesome wines — and only one red thank Dionysus (given the food). Company was amazing too and the food really stood out. I enjoyed this slightly northern twist and they seem to have an excellent and very flexible Chinese kitchen and great private rooms. Who would have thought at a Northern Cafe? Service was super friendly and excellent too. We did get too many dishes too fast because no one gave them the “one at a time” instructions and fast is the Chinese default. Still, an awesome time and awesome food. That broth was really amazing!
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Meal 2 (July 2023).

For more dining reviews click here.

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Just a bit of great wine!
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And some fire water.

Related posts:

  1. Westwood Chinese – Northern Cafe
  2. Northern Chinese
  3. Hot Pot Longo
  4. Century City Heat
  5. Happy Table 2X
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Babykillers, BYOG, Caviar, Chinese cuisine, Foodie, Foodie Club, Gelato, geoduck, hot pot, Seafood, SGV, Wine

Spring Crustacean

Jan11

Restaurant: Crustacean Beverly Hills [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

Location: 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 205-8990

Date: April 4, 2023

Cuisine: Vietnamese Fusion

Rating: Awesome as always

_

Crustacean is one of our regular haunts and one of the few places with the stems, food, and service to handle a serious wine dinner. This was a return to Hedonist form with a mixed dinner of all new traditional Vietnamese food inspired Crustacean creations.

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Back in our “usual” private dining room and patio.
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Yarom, always posing with owners and the ladies. In the print dress is Elisabeth An.
Menu
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Our special menu.
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Served on this cute wooden toadstool is:
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King Crab “Banh Khot”. Royal Kaluga Caviar, dungeness crab, coconut bechemel. A tiny but delicious bite. Great champagne pairing too.
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A trio of traditional rolls. Filet Mignon “Bo Nuong” Roll (right). Lemon grass, Ho Fun Rice Noodle. “Cha Gio” Roll (center). Jidori Chicken, crispy rice paper, black mushrooms, jicama, lemon chili. Fresh Langoustine “goi cuon” roll (left). Taito, rau ram, carrots, roasted peanut bean sauce. These were some great spring rolls. Each was just ever so slightly “elevated” from its usual version.
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Another trio, this time with sambal, chili oil, and siracha. I was particularly fond of the sambal.
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Vietnamese “Banh Xeo” Crepes. Rice batter, organic beech mushrooms, prawns, dice chicken, bean sprouts, pickles. The only thing missing on this wonderful classic Vietmamese dish was the sweet fish sauce.
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Escargot “Bun Oc” soup. Escargot, fresh tomatoes, tamarind, ginger chili broth, angel hair rice noodle. I’ve never had this dish before. Both the tender snails and the flavorful snail sausage were awesome. The broth was tangy and a little bit spicy. Delicious!
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This was for dipping the snails.
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Tasting of An’s Famous Garlic Roasted Dungeness Crab and An’s Famous Garlic Noodles. Roasted garlic and An’s Secret Sauce. The classic never fails to dissapoint. The noodles were “fortuantly” a tiny portion (good given my carb avoidance).
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These came smoked.
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Lemongrass Cramelized “suon rang” pork spare ribs. Lemongrass, soy, shallot, fish sauce. Very distinct smokey flavor and lots of meat. Yum!
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Salt block pork belly for the fried rice.
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Rich and flavorful.
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XO Garlic Fried Rice. Poached egg, pork belly, XO, Vietnamese Sausage. Awesome rice. Can’t hate on the Vietnamese sausage (which is pretty much like Cantonese sausage).
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The icky flight.
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Wagyu “Bo Kho”. Snake River Farms Wagyu, su su “Buddha’s Palm,” heirloom carrots, garlic rice. My least favorite dish. It was fine, but mostly beef stew and rice.
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Kung Pao Eggplant. Thai Basil, Thai red chili gastrique. Crispy and delicious.
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Coconut Tapioca “Che.” Exotic Fruits. A really pleasant mix of the soft and silky textures with the potenent coconut notes offset by the zingy fruit.
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I love this flavor — Peppermint Bark Gelato — Base is pure peppermint milk (subbed the sugar with crushed peppermint candies) and it’s laced with house-made double-sided peppermint bark, Valrhona Dark Chocolate and Ivoire White! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — The Peppermint Bark recipe was developed by a famous pastry chef and author, the mum of a Naughty Dog Alum @nancy_baggett — this year I added the two layer thing which is awesome — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #dessertgasm #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #peppermint #bark #Valrhona #chocolate
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Hojicha Latte NSA Gelato – Ceremonial Hojicha Roasted Green Tea base with No Sugar Added (Allulose) — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #matcha #Hojicha #GreenTea #Allulose #NSA
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We had a few wines.
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Overall, our best dinner at Crustacean yet — and that is saying something given how many great ones we’ve had. I really like the slightly elevated traditional Vietnamese. It’s a nice change of pace from the fusion, which is quite good as well. They really executed on all levels tonight. Elisabeth joined us and supervised. Her mother was supposed to do all the cooking, but she got sick and ended up spending hours with the cooks over zoom giving them instructions. Obviously she is a good teacher because everything came out great. Wines were awesome and I like a nice progression like this. The cabernets were — as I suspected — too much. The Colgin was the most drinkable but the 2016 — oh my! Service was flawless.
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Discussing the food analytically. Very good, and most dishes varied from good to great. The Vietnamese influence is far more subtle, less heavy handed, then at most newer fusion places like Little Sister / LXSO or the more contemporary small plates style Khong Ten. Definitely more roughly 2000 in formal fine dining style — which I don’t mind at all. In some ways it feels like a millennium event fine dining place with Vietnamese — and to a lesser extent Thai and Chinese — notes. It’s a pretty fancy place, and priced accordingly — but particularly during these last two dinners have really knocked it out of the park.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Quicker Crustacean
  2. Crustacean Again?
  3. Dirty Dozen Crustacean
  4. Crustacean Cru
  5. Sauvages Crustacean
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Crustacean, fusion, Gelato, hedonists, Vietnamese cuisine, Wine

OOToro Spring

Dec01

Restaurant: OOToro [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10]

Location: 1569 Fairway Dr, Walnut, CA 91789. (909) 598-8299

Date: April 1, 2023

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi (with slight nod to China)

Rating: Ends of the earth, but very good

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Chef Kaz of Totoraku, an occasional hedonist, sent us far east to this Sushi restaurant in 2016 and it was such a fun time that we had to return again for a sixth visit — it’s now become a twice a year thing. This is my second return since the pandemic — although some in the group went once in the middle for a meal that was supposedly not quite up to snuff. Because a bunch of us have engaged in a special Sushi Series this fall (tasting all the best LA sushi places) I figured I’d include OOToro in the mix.

 And by far east I mean REALLY REALLY far east — to Walnut California. 40+ miles from my house. 20 miles past Alhambra (which most people consider to far to drive for food). It took an hour and twenty minutes on a Saturday night!

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Look how clear it is after the rains (and snows).

The slick looking location is in the heart of the affluent Chinese American San Gabriel Valley. But yes, it’s Japan, if perhaps catering to Chinese taste. This photo was shot at about 10pm after everyone else had left.

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Here is the private room — the only way to go.

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They put up this weird curtain recently.

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We ordered the $250 Omakase.
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First course of various little morsels.
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Marinated Baby Squid. Soft and juicy!
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Baby Japanese Sea Snail. Quite tasty.
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Shirako (aka cod sperm sac) with a bit of soy/ponzu. Awesome.
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Steamed Abalone. Very tender, but not the strongest (or most intense) abalone I’ve had.
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Fried Potato Wrapped Shrimp “Tempura.”
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Sashimi course. OToro in the back (super soft). Needlefish in the middle. Squid with bad caviar in front with Uni blobi and Half a Live Octopus sucker with sour plum sauce (great).
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Special house-made soy sauce that was actually incredible. I kept it all evening. It was so good it made me eat all the garnish and seaweed (with the soy). Even the shiso flower!
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Live shrimp in front with wasabi and oyster with uni and ikura. They took head away for later.
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Cooked belt fish.
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Parfait of Uni, terrible truffle caviar, some kind of jelly, and crab salad. Once the bad caviar with its truffle oil taste was gone the jelly and crab salad was wonderful.
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From the side.
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Aji (Spanish Mackerel) Tataki. Lovely!

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We went out and looked at the wine cabinet and low and behold there were some Leroys. Turns out they were cheaper than retail!
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Duo of whitefish sushi, snapper specifically. The left was Red Snapper and the right Goldeneye Snapper.
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Awesome ginger.
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The “money plate” with OToro on the right and Kama Toro (collar) on the left. So good!
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Skipjack Tuna with garlic and numbing chili crisp! The chili crisp was a new twist and actually kinda delicious.
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Uni Toast! So good.
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Turns out they had a whole tuna collar “in stock” tonight (the kama part) and we were able to order it.
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An hour or so later out came the awesome “BBQ Kama Toro” plate. It’s like ducky tuna and fishy smoked duck and is incredibly rich and delicious. Great with that special soy too.
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Yarom flintstones the bone.
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Flaming Sea Snail with mushrooms. Creature alert!
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Chawanmushi (egg custard) with shrimp, ikura (salmon roe), and hairy crab. This was wonderful and it was also presented with a leg of hairy crab.
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The beef dish came out in these cute covered cooking boxes.
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Inside was A5 Wagyu they cook tableside.
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A5 Wagyu. Super tender and melt in your mouth.
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The return of the heads.
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Shrimp head miso.
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Fried shrimp head for brain sucking fun.
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Pure and Concentrated Evil — Kentucky Mud Pie Gelato — Expresso Knob Creek Bourbon Custard Gelato base with layers of house-made Crushed Oreo Valrhona Fudge Ganache, and house-made Vanilla Coconut Cream Cheese Icing — The Plaid Mode of Gelati and includes a hefty Caffeine kick — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #coconut #valrhona #chocolate #ganache #expresso #bourbon #custard #oreos #icing
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Two of us grabbed these Leroys.
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Overall, this was one of the best OOToro’s ever. Every dish was great — only exception being that gross caviar, but it didn’t ruin any dishes — and the preparation (hard to say cooking) was very on point. The collar as always really took it up a notch. Plus we had a great group with some first timers and a lot of very good wines.
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The epic wine lineup.

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After dinner we returned to the always fun valley view parking lot. Big plus over that miserable hotel across the street from Ootoro. Only problem was that it was cold and that on the way home an accident had the 60 closed for over an hour — so I got home almost at 1am.

For more LA dining reviews click here,

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

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Related posts:

  1. OOToro Holiday
  2. OOToro Double
  3. OOToro Five O
  4. Post OOToro
  5. O OOToro
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Gelato, ootoro, SGV, Sushi, toro, Tuna, Uni, Wine

Hot Pot Longo

Nov29

Restaurant: Longo Seafood Restaurant [1, 2, 3]

Location: 7540 Garvey Ave, Rosemead, CA 91770.  (626) 280-8188

Date: March 30, 2023

Cuisine: Cantonese Chinese

Rating: Great Meal, Good Deal

_

I’ve been to Longo MANY times, both for lunch and dinner, but one of our friends who knows the owner set up this special off menu hot pot dinner — normally they don’t have hot pot at all.

Longo is on Garvey right next to the Longo Toyota. Lol.

IMG_6093It’s one of these big formal Cantonese places.

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Tanks with live seafood.

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Our private room.
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Peanuts (with sugar underneath).
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Chicken Feet. Yarom has to order them whenever he can.
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Cucumbers with a spicy bean paste / oil.

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Yarom and the owner.
The owner hung out with us for a bit — she was supposed to actually eat with us, but her kid needed her at home — still, she did bring us a 2012 Unico as a “substitute!”
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Tonight’s dinner centered around Longo’s off menu special hot pot.. Each of us had one of these individual pots.
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Here is the mild but delicious broth.
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The main dipping sauce was this spicy garlic soy.
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It could be “juiced up” with garlic, chilies, green onions etc.
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Geoduck. Both parts of the giant clam were served raw and could be eaten either as sashimi or dipped in the hot pot to be cooked. I tried the body both ways, but the neck seemed much better cooked. It was pretty delicious this way.
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King Crab. We had an entire live king crab who was hacked up into parts. These were cooked in the hot pot for 2-3 minutes and then became extremely juicy and delicious. Could have used some garlic paste too.

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Red Rock Cod. This delicious fish was also served raw and was cooked in the pot where it was moist and delicious.
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Glass or rice noodles were also served on this platter.
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Deep Fried Cod. The head of the cod was hacked up and deep fried. It tasted like Longo’s usual clam neck fry and was delicious.
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Scallop. Whole scallops were cooked in the pot and also delicious.
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Silken Tofu. This soft tofu was awesome. I must have cooked about 5-6 of these in my pot.
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Carby Veggies. Some kind of yams and taro. I didn’t bother with.
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Greens. Two kinds of greens, incudling an endive-like thing.
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Pork Meat Balls. These were basically sui mai innards that had to be cooked for 10 minutes. They were pretty awesome.
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A5 Wagyu Beef. Supposedly. But in any case, it was fatty wagyu and really delicious when briefly cooked — incredibly soft and melt in your mouth.

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Velveted Beef. Thicker, but also tender and delicious when cooked. Perhaps more “beefy” flavor than the wagyu.
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Cantonese Roast Duck. Juicy.
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Fried Squab. Super delicious with crispy skin and very dark rich meat.
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Macau Style Pork Belly. Piggy with nice crispy skin. Good stuff.
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Sliced Pig Leg. Yep, Yarom couldn’t resist another marinated foot. But the full slices were pretty tasty.
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Beef. Just a meh beef. Not bad, but not exciting.
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New Flavor — Cherry Bakewell Tart Gelato — While watching every episode of the Great British Baking Show I was introduced to the Bakewell Tart, which I liked it enough to make a gelato — Sicilian Noto Romano Almond Custard Base is layered with house-made Honey Almond Graham Crackers and Cherry Preserves. For extra fun I made an Almond Icing and glazed the Grahams with it in the traditional pattern (first time trying it) — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #Sicily #Almond #Cherry #GrahamCracker #BakewellTart #tart #bakewell #jam #icing

Strawberry Margarita Sorbetto! — like a frozen cocktail — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Strawberries from Avignon, blended with fresh lime, Reposado Tequila and Cointreau –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #strawberry #Margarita #cocktail #Tequila #Cointreau
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Chinese Baklava?
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Chinese Sweet Bean Soup.

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Overall, it was nice to have a bit of a “different” Longo experience and this was a super fun night. This was some of the best hot pot I’ve had. It was different than the super spicy ones, but the broth wasn’t bland like the typical pork or bone broths. Basically it really worked with the ultra fresh seafood. Lots of fun and very tasty.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

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Related posts:

  1. Late Night Longo
  2. Long Lunch at Longo
  3. Lots more Longo
  4. Silk Worm Road – Guan Dong Da Yuan
  5. Chengdu Impression
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Chinese cuisine, Gelato, hot pot, Longo, SGV, Wine

Akbar Pasadena

Nov02

Restaurant: Akbar Cuisine of India – Pasadena

Location: 400 S Arroyo Pkwy, Pasadena, CA 91105

Date: March 20, 2023

Cuisine: Indian

Rating: Far, but still one of my favorites

_

We’ve been friends with the Akbar owners forever — hell I’ve been eating their food since 1996 or 97. So I trekked out to the new Pasadena location (and it is a trek for me).
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Bright colors.
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Huge gang bang table.
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Chutneys. I particularly love the spicy veggie mix on the right.
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Mango Habanero Sauce. This is a new concoction that Chev Avi whipped up. Leathally hot and super delicious. When used sparingly, quite awesome.
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Naan. I avoided the regular naan just for calorie/carb reasons. Later I succumbed to the cheese version. sigh.
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French Fries. The kitchen isn’t really geared for our 25+ person party so these came out to sop up some appetite. I skipped, however, because of the obvious carbs.
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Shrimp Bhuna. Really delicious and quite spicy. Succulent shrimp and TONS of flavor.
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You can see all those tasty onions. Which given that the first couple of these landed at the other side of the table is all I got for a while. Eventually more came and I loaded up on shrimp.
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Tandoori Chicken. Succulent and flavorful as always.
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Gobi Manchurian. Really tasty with that sweet and spicy flavor. However, small containers for 25+ people and the cauliflower itself was toasted instantly.
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Chicken Tikka Masala. One of my two classic flavors at Akbar and still the best CTM around.
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Basmati Rice.
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Garlic Naan. Stepping up in the naan world. Freshly baked and covered in garlic.
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Goat Curry. Very nice, classic “brown curry” with tons of flavor. I do really like the goat meat, although there are a lot of (sometimes sharp) bones.
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Bhindi Masala. One of my favorite veggies and nicely salted. I ate about a whole plate of this with the curry sauce.
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Lamb Sliders. I haven’t actually had these before. They have a mint chutney and some greens on them lending them a flavor like classic Indian lamb kabobs.
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Cheese Naan. Now these made me break my carb diet — wow I love these cheese stuffed naan. So cheesy good.
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Saag (sans paneer). I think it was supposed to be Saag Paneer, but someone forgot the cheese. Still, spinach never had so much flavor (and a whole lotta fat) mixed in.
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Oxtail Masala. This was the sleeper hit of the evening. Tons of bone you had to chew around, and oddly, while we constantly got new plates someone had taken everything but our spoons, so I was using two spoons to try to pry the meat out. Still, the masala sauce was to die for and it was an incredible dish.
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Salty Pistachio Gelato – Pistachio di Bronte DOGC produces an intense pistachio base to which I added just a touch of salt — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #pistachio #sicily #nuts #salt

Cannoli and Baklava’s Evil American Lovechild — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Base crafted from Galbani Whole Milk Ricotta and Sicilian Toasted Noto Romano Almond Paste with a touch of the sugar subbed out for Sicilian Honey. Mixed in is Malibu Honey, California Pistachios, and house-made Gluten Free Honey Graham Crackers (almond flour and so good you can’t tell them from the wheat flour version)! — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #dessertgasm #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #ricotta #almond #RicottaCheese #cheese #Sicily #honey #GrahamCracker #pistachio

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Overall, food was great as always. For me personally, given that it’s pretty much the same as the Marina branch, and that’s like 10x closer, I’ll go there. But if you live east side there isn’t any better Indian food!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Akbar – Curry not so Hurry
  2. Loire at Akbar
  3. Akbar Reborn
  4. All Things Akbar
  5. Ultimate Akbar
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Akbar, Avi Kapoor, BYOG, curry, Gelato, Indian cuisine, Pasadena, Wine

Cheval Crustacean

Oct29

Restaurant: Crustacean Beverly Hills [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7]

Location: 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 205-8990

Date: March 15, 2023

Cuisine: Vietnamese Fusion

Rating: Awesome as always

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Crustacean is one of our regular haunts and one of the few places with the stems, food, and service to handle a serious wine dinner. For this particular night some of my friends organized an epic Cheval Blanc tasting covering many of the most iconic vintages of the last 40 years.

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Our private area.
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A magnum of 2010 Dom.
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Fried potstickers.
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Little dumplings that were partially steamed and pan-fried to get a bit of that crispy bottom.
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Tonight’s special menu.
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A flight of P2!
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2000 Dom Pérignon Champagne P2. VM 96. The 2000 Dom Pérignon P2 is striking. More importantly, it is absolutely delicious right now. Baked apple tart, brioche, spice, vanillin, ripe pear and crushed rocks all flesh out. Creamy, layered and inviting, with soft, voluptuous curves, the 2000 offers a lot of sheer pleasure. Although, perhaps not quite as complex or structured as the very best P2s, the 2000 is wonderfully alluring. Interestingly, in 2000, the Blanc and P2 are not as different as they typically are. The P2 has a bit more volume and freshness than the Blanc, but both wines share a distinct toasty, slightly reductive character. (Drink between 2019-2040)
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2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne P2. VM 97+. The 2002 Dom Pérignon P2 is wonderfully open in its aromatics, but a bit less giving on the palate, especially next to the regular release. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint and white pepper open up first, followed by hints of apricot, honey, chamomile and light tropical notes. Interestingly, the P2 is quite a bit less tropical than the original release. Chef de Caves Vincent Chaperon told me he thinks the original release shows more of a buttery character because of the combination of the ripeness of the vintage and the natural evolution of the wine post-disgorgement under crown seal, as opposed to the P2 which stayed much longer on its lees. It is hard to know if that is an exact explanation, but the reality is that the two 2002s are quite far apart stylistically. (Drink between 2019-2032)
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2004 Dom Pérignon Champagne P2. VM 97. The 2004 Dom Pérignon P2 is precise and wonderfully refined, just like the first release. There’s a hint of reduction from extended time on the cork as well as a feeling of effusiveness that is so appealing. Readers will find a super-classic DP. Dried flowers, brioche, apricot preserves, sage, mint and chamomile are seamless in the glass. The 2004 can be enjoyed now or cellared for another decade plus. Some editions of the P2 series have been pretty austere in the early going; the 2004 is not among them. (Drink between 2022-2034)
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Tuna Cigars. Instant smoke, feuille de brick, avocado silk, vidalia onion, tobiko caviar. I’ve had this before and really liked it, but tonight it tasted a bit too much of faux cigar smoke.
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Zoom.
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The white flight! This is necessary to pair with a lot of the food!
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2017 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères. VM 93. A cool, pure and airy nose is exceptionally pretty with its various white orchard fruit, hazelnut and citrusy wisps. The lilting and ultra-refined middle weight flavors possess a lacy mouth feel before terminating in a sneaky long and well-balanced mineral-inflected finale. This isn’t especially complex at present but my sense is that more depth will almost certainly develop if it’s allowed 6 to 8 years of bottle age. In a word, lovely. (Drink starting 2024)
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2017 Olivier Leflaive Montrachet. VM 94. The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is much more closed on the nose and demands encouragement. There is a slight menthol aroma that emerges with time; a little exotic, perhaps. The palate has good extract and fine acidity, not quite as precise as the Montrachet from Marc Colin, but there is a lovely spiciness and just the right amount of bitterness on the finish. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune. (Drink between 2027-2050)

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2013 Château de la Maltroye Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 95. This is very much like the Grandes Ruchottes in that the nose is reticent to the point of being almost dumb and even aggressive swirling reveals very little. By contrast the big-bodied and tautly muscular flavors possess superb mid-palate density along with terrific intensity that continues onto the palate coating and massively long finish. This is nothing short of brilliant and could very well be the Bâtard of the vintage. Note well however that plenty of patience will be required. (Drink starting 2023)
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2018 Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers. BH 90. Here too there is just enough reduction to push the underlying fruit to the background but it’s not so heavy as to obscure the fact that it’s ripe with white fleshed fruit and just a touch of oak. The super-sleek, delicious and vibrant flavors are presently relatively compact on the agreeably dry finish that flashes a touch of warmth. The oak does reappear, and this is mildly awkward today so I would suggest allowing this at least a few years to integrate its wood and better harmonize. (Drink starting 2026)
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2020 Le Petit Cheval Blanc.
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Colossal Tiger Prawns. Served with An’s Famous Garlic Noodles. This is the shrimp version of the classic Crustacean crab dish. Smaller, but great. These noodles never get old with their sweet garlicky bit.
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Zoom.
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Big Glory Bay King Salmon. Market vegetables, Saffron Nage. Very crispy and with a great little saffron broth, but kinda tiny.
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This flight rocked!
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1982 Château Cheval Blanc. VM 95+. Saturated deep red, with a hint of development at the rim. Roasted nose dominated by toffee and tobacco. Wonderfully silky but without quite the exotic ripeness of the ’90. Still, this offers uncanny retention of primary fruit. Expands inexorably on the finish and goes on and on. A wonderful bottle that still improving. (The bottle in the blind flight was slightly less impressive: Good full red, with a hint of amber at the rim. Slightly medicinal aromas of red fruits, cedar and tobacco leaf; comes across as distinctly cooler than the ’90. Dense but penetrating and still a bit closed in on itself. Less sweet and generous today than the ’90, less exotic. But finishes firm and long, with a hint of dryness. I rated this bottle 93(+?).) Drink now through 2020.
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1983 Château Cheval Blanc. JG 95. Along with Ausone, the ’83 Cheval Blanc has long been one of the greatest wines of this vintage and it is showing no signs of slowing down any time soon. The wine has gone through periods of glorious drinking, followed by much more closed cycles over the years, but it seems now at age thirty to have finally reached the start of its plateau of maturity and I would be very surprised to see it shut down ever again in its lifetime. Today, the deep, pure and vibrant nose wafts from the glass in a youthfully complex blend of mulberries, menthol, black cherries, a touch of chocolate, tobacco leaf, lovely soil tones and a nice touch of toasty new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very elegant on the attack, with a superb core of fruit, great focus and complexity, and a very long, balanced and modestly tannic finish. The tannins today have fallen away to the point where this wine is very enjoyable to drink, and yet I still have the sense that the wine is relatively adolescent in its stage of development and more fireworks will still be unveiled if one can exercise a bit more patience. This is a great vintage of Cheval Blanc! (Drink between 2013-2050)
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1985 Château Cheval Blanc. VM 95. The 1985 Cheval Blanc has always been one of the picks of the vintage for what was a fecund decade for the Saint-Émilion. This example shows similarly to previous bottles. It has a fragrant bouquet with sandalwood, clove and chestnut, maybe here even a touch of brettanomyces? It is only slight. The palate is beautifully balanced with melted tannin. The Cabernet Franc in full flight – hints of bell pepper and cedar, a surfeit of fruit. Maybe it lacks the precision of more recent vintages but how can you resist its charm. Impossible! It is a wonderful wine, but I wonder…was its heyday around the turn of the millennium? Tasted blind at Chez Brunce lunch. (Drink between 2018-2040)
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1989 Château Cheval Blanc. VM 95. The 1989 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that I have not encountered since 2010. One bottle opened was rustic and fatigued, and Pierre-Olivier Clouet opened a second that was much better. It has a gorgeous bouquet of ample red fruit, morels, black truffle, cigar box and hints of brown sugar, all very well defined and charming. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin and approaching full maturity; brown spices, bay leaf and clove infuse the red berry fruit. At 30 years of age, I suspect this 1989 will not improve further, but its robustness suggests that any decline will be graceful. Tasted from an ex-cellar bottle at the château. (Drink between 2019-2045)
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1990 Château Cheval Blanc. VM 98. The 1990 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that once upon a time I drank regularly, although I had not seen it since March 2016. Poured against the 1990 Lafite-Rothschild, this is the clear winner. Still youthful in color with modest bricking. The bouquet explodes from the glass with kirsch, mulberry, antique furniture and black truffle scents. With aeration it becomes more savory, the Cabernet Franc wanting to see more of the olfactory action. The palate is medium-bodied and comes equipped with a stunning velvety texture. This Saint-Émilion feels spherical, conveying a sense of controlled decadence but avoiding any ostentation. This is as good a bottle as I have encountered over the years. Brilliant. Tasted at Noble Rot’s “Xmas” dinner. (Drink between 2019-2045)
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Rabbit Dumplings. Rabbit Confit “Money Pouch”, leeks, dijon caviar creme. These were great, probably the best of our three dumpling types.
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Chicken Satay. Grilled over Binchotan Charcoal with House Pickles. There was a choice of chicken or beef satay. It seemed pretty small and it was because…
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They realized they were supposed to serve two skewers so a second came out 5 minutes later for each person.
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Filet Mignon Beef Satay. Grilled over Binchotan Charcoal with House Pickles. The pickles were rather microscopic as well.
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And here is the second beef skewer.
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1995 Château Cheval Blanc. VM 93+. Good full red. Profound, multidimensional nose combines redcurrant, plums, raspberry, cherry, mocha and humus: really quite singular. Wonderful sweetness and depth of flavor; lush but with a firm spine. Already offers compelling inner-mouth perfume, but I suspect this wine will soon close down. Finishes with terrific length and very suave, sweet tannins that coat the teeth.
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1998 Château Cheval Blanc. JG 98+. While the money-changers in the temple promote Pavie and Angélus to the bureaucratic summits of Saint Émilion in the classification of the commune’s wines, tastings such as this one definitively show that Cheval Blanc no longer has any real rival for quality. The 1998 Cheval Blanc is an utterly brilliant wine, delivering a refined and very complex aromatic constellation of black cherries, sweet dark berries, menthol, gravelly soil tones, cigar smoke and a suave framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, precise and full-bodied, with a velvety palate impression beginning to develop, a sappy core of glorious fruit, marvelous soil signature, fine-grained, seamless tannins and a very, very long, complex and effortless finish. The ’98 Cheval Blanc is certainly a very, very enjoyable glass of wine today, but it is still climbing and I would try to leave it alone for at least a handful more years. Sheer brilliance. (Drink between 2030-2100)
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2000 Château Cheval Blanc. VM 94. The 2000 Cheval Blanc is a wine that I have encountered more than a dozen times. Now at just over 20 years of age (how time flies – I remember tasting this from barrel), it has a lovely, quite beguiling bouquet of brambly red berries, iron rust, Provençal herbs and clove, powerful and somehow enveloping. The peppery palate is medium-bodied with quite firm, stocky tannins and good backbone, though coming after a vertical of recent vintages, it feels more rustic and feral. As Pierre-Olivier Clouet noted, there are fewer “pixels” in this millennial Cheval Blanc, but you can’t help falling for its charms. Ready to drink now but will age for the next 20–30 years. Tasted at Cheval Blanc. (Drink between 2021-2040)

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2001 Château Cheval Blanc. VM 96. The 2001 Cheval Blanc has a slightly more expressive and less feral bouquet compared to the 2000, perhaps better defined, although I miss the menthol aspect that develops on the previous vintage. But give it an hour’s aeration and it coheres magnificently, gaining more intensity as it manifests dark berry fruit mixed with potpourri. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, quite firm and (for this estate) quite austere and strict, though yet again, after an hour it mellows, gaining more rondeur and sensuality. Whereas initially I leaned toward the millennial Cheval Blanc, the 2001 has its nose in front by the end. Tasted at Cheval Blanc. (Drink between 2021-2040)

2005 Château Cheval Blanc. VM 100. The 2005 Cheval Blanc has been nothing less than magical on two separate occasions. A wine of breathtaking nuance and sophistication, the 2005 Cheval dazzles right out of the gate. With a few hours of aeration the aromatics blossom and the wine is explosive in every dimension. Espresso, rose petal, mint, blood orange and incense all open as the 2005 shows off its magnificence and pedigree. Bright saline underpinnings convey energy, tension and brilliance. Cheval Blanc is perhaps not as immediately seductive as some of the other top 2005s, but its all there. In spades. I would give it a few more years to unwind. (Drink between 2025-2055)

2009 Château Cheval Blanc. VM 98. The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a rambunctious nose with copious red fruit, meat juices, sage and crushed stone aromas, ineffably complex. This is so refined, constantly mutating in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannin. There is a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of cassis, cardamom and allspice. Immense depth and grip towards the finish expresses ripe Cabernet Franc. This is an outstanding 2009 destined for long-term ageing. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting. (Drink between 2021-2060)
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Mongolian Lamb. Chargrilled, market vegetables, twice-cooked potatoes. I’ve had this before too, and it’s a nice lamb chop, just a bit sweet. It’s also not exactly enormous.
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Steamed Truffle Cream Dory. Steamed in Papillote, black summer truffle, leeks, romanesco, ginger, shaoxing. This John Dory dish is great, very light and moist with a strong ginger flavor.
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Prime Rib Eye with XO Bechamel. Remy Martin XO Wagyu Salt Block Steak, White Cheddar, XO Emulsion. Another petite bite.

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Orange Old Fashioned Sorbetto — Cold Pressed Orange Juice, Knob Creek Bourbon and Angostura Bitters! Topped with cherries — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Really tastes like an Old Fashioned –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #orange #tangerine #bourbon #KnobCreek #bitters #Angostura
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Warm Beignets. Vietnamese Coffee Creme Anglaise. A single Beignets into which was injected the Creme Anglaise. It was served with:

Yar! Ghostly skeletal praline pirates are marauding — Pecan Pirate Praline Gelato — An eggy Texas Pecan base layered with my creepy skull-shaped New Orleans style Vanilla Bourbon Pecan Pralines and Pumpkin Spice Chocolate Pumpkins — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #vanilla #bourbon #pecan #praline #candy #halloween #spooky
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Overall, The wines and company were incredible, and the food itself was great. It wasn’t the “largest” meal, but that’s okay given my diet, and it was most Crustacean “staple dishes”, which are awesome — but I’m a novelty junky. Still, it sure was one hell of an evening. Cheval is really an incredible wine.

And boy did the Ans treat us right, amazing service, and great wines. Every dish is always superb tasting and perfectly executed. Although their menu is perhaps not the “perfect pairing” choice for Bordeaux, Crustacean does such an incredible job, it doesn’t matter.

Discussing the food analytically. Very good, and most dishes varied from good to great. The Vietnamese influence is far more subtle, less heavy handed, then at most newer fusion places like Little Sister / LXSO or the more contemporary small plates style Khong Ten. Definitely more roughly 2000 in formal fine dining style — which I don’t mind at all. In some ways it feels like a millennium event fine dining place with Vietnamese — and to a lesser extent Thai and Chinese — notes. It’s a pretty fancy place, and priced accordingly — but particularly during these last two dinners have really knocked it out of the park.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Crustacean Again?
  2. Crustacean Cru
  3. Sauvages Crustacean
  4. Dirty Dozen Crustacean
  5. Kings at Crustacean
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: An Family, Bordeaux, BYOG, Champagne, Cheval Blanc, Crustacean, Gelato, Wine

Tony Teleferic

Oct27

Restaurant: Teleferic Barcelona Los Angeles

Location: 11930 San Vicente Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90049. (424) 832-7595

Date: March 14, April 8, & June 4, 2023

Cuisine: Spanish

Rating: Tasty contemporary Tapas

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Good Spanish in Brentwood — woot!
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Teleferic is located in the old Vincenti space. The shape is essentially the same but they’ve given it a nice modern makeover.
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The interior.
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The menu.
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Albarinos.
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Amuse of some kind of cheese and mushroom tart. This was very well baked, but oddly used a sweeter shortcrust pastry than I’d use in a dessert tart.
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Zoom.
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Pan con Tomate. A traditional Spanish dish of toasted bread with tomato. dressing & chorizo butter (gfa). A bit “foamed” and soft as opposed to the more tradtional “minced” totmato version of this dish. Bread was moderately soft as well and I don’t think scraped with garlic. I’m not a big fan of pan con tomate in general but this wasn’t my favorite. Chorizo butter was interesting though.

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Secret Kids Tortilla. Classic Spanish Tortilla, aka fritata with potato and onion.

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Hidden Gem Salad. Little lettuce gems, Idiazabal, Iberian bacon, basil vinaigrette. Nice light salad.
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Taquitos de Tuna & Avocado. Marinated ahi tuna, mashed avocado & wonton shells (gfa). Nice crispy tuna tartare taco. Great with the lime.
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Great priorats.
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Patatas Bravas. Crispy potatoes topped with homemade brava sauce & aioli (gfa, v). Interesting presentation of the “brave potatoes” and quite delicious. Gotta love that mildly spicy mayo.
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Gazpacho Porrón. Watermelon tartare, gazpacho & basil oil served in a porrón (v, gf). Very refreshing and quite unexpected and lovely combo.

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Ham Croquetas. Croquettes with Iberian ham & aioli. Fluffy and nice with a very soft bechemel.

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Empanadas. Roasted chicken empanadas served with spicy aioli.
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Spanish Meatballs. Tender beef meatballs in flavorful ‘canary masala’ sauce & cream. Maybe not the most traditional, but I love a nice curry and the masala really took it up a notch. Quite excellent.
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Crab Croquettes. Crab croquettes topped with tuna sashimi & spicy aioli. The croquette would have been fine without the tuna and maybe with a saffron mayo or similar. So a little odd as a kind of croquette nigiri, but still excellent. Nice crabby flavor.
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Dragonballs. Chorizo pops filled with Mahón cheese & corn crust. Great crispy texture and intresting chorizo flavor.
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Catalan Cod. Black cod ‘a la llauna’ style, served with ‘romesco’ sauce
& butter beans (gf). Solid.
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Truffled Cannelloni. truffle beef cannelloni coated in rich black truffle sauce & demi-glace. I thought I’d love this dish and I did. Great meaty inside and awesome semi-sweet creamy sauce.

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This second time it was cut into threes and not quite as great — but still good.
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Bruselas. Brussels sprouts with a touch of aged cheese. & lemon-honey dressing (gfa, v). Loved these sweet and savory brussels. Could have eaten the whole bowl myself.

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Cali-Flower. Crispy cauliflower pops with a deliciously tangy ‘romesco’ glaze. These were great with a nice tang to the glaze.

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Artichoke Hearts. Crispy artichoke with light pistachio foam & red curry. Crispy and nice.
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Maine Lobster Paella. Freshly caught Maine lobster, gulf shrimp & octopus (gf). Mix crispy texture and fresh seafood so one of the better paella I’ve had in LA — which is a town full of crappy paella. Enjoyable and I need come back and try the negro version.
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Paella Veggie. Seasonal mushrooms, cauliflower, artichokes
& seaweed stock (gf, v). The veg version had the same nice crispy texture. Quite addicitive and off my diet. Could have used even more garlic aioli.

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Ibérico Pork Paella. Acorn-fed pork chop, pork belly & mushrooms (gf).
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Garlic aioli for the paella (I asked for this as I love it).

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Gambas al Ajillo. Gulf shrimp, lemon zest & crispy garlic. Very nice whole shrimp version of the classic. Head sucking good with lots of garlic butter. Unfortuantly I missed on the focus.

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Forgot to photo my bottle. 2010 Espectacle.

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Tondonia!

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Catalan Tomahawk. 40 Oz Prime rib eye ‘chuletón’, potatoes & a set of dressings. Cooked properly rare. They left in the big fat strip between the ribeye and the ribcap but it was a nice piece of beef and the sauces were great, basically the potatoes bravos sauces (aioli and romesco) and a pesto.
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Mirella womans the bone.
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Secret Kids Mac & Cheese. Very creamy, no breadcrumbs.

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Prime Wellington. Braised short ribs & Ibérico ham encased in a flaky puff pastry roll, served with Spanish-style potatoes.
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I’m not sure what goodness they injected into the Wellington but anywhichway it was awesome. One of the best dishes. The cold savory meatballs were also amazing and the sauce on them fabulous and nutty/sweet.
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Paella Negra. Squid ink, gulf shrimp, scallops, octopus & clams. This was probably my favorite paella of the three I tried with a nice sweet & briney quality. It needed more aioli but this time I asked for (and recieved) some. They ask you if you want it crispy or not.
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Zoom.
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Torrija. French toast, Catalan cream & vanilla ice cream. Awesome (and very sweet) donut with amazing crema catalana. I total sugar bomb but great.
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They came around and poured this conconction of cava and fruit juice into the mouths of willing participants.

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Overall, I very much enjoyed Teleferic. It’s not perfect, but it is fairly classic spainish with a bit of a modern twist. Flavors were bright and good. They gave me no trouble over my (Spanish) wines. I’m good. It’s awesome to have a solid Spanish so close to home.

I think I might have enjoyed Teleferic even more the second (and third) time. Jeffrey went without us a month ago and then forced our planned dinner over to the rather uninspired MyDogPoo. But I’m very happy to have this right in my neighborhood. A big menu and almost everything was great. Probably the best Paella in LA right now too, even if it isn’t up to Spanish standards, it’s at least pretty crispy. Service was great too, although things came a bit fast — which wasn’t a problem with the kids tonight but I don’t love when it’s all adults.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Too Tony at Chef Tony
  2. Eating Houston – Tony Mandola’s
  3. DimSumQuest – Chef Tony
  4. Quick Eats: Taverna Tony
  5. Tony Terroni
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Spanish Cuisine, Tapas, Teleferic, Wine

Super Sauvages

Oct25

Restaurant: Laurent Quenioux at the Villamalka for Sauvages

Location: The Villamalka

Date: March 10, 2023

Cuisine: Contemporary French Californian

Rating: Awesome

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I’ve been wanting to host a Sauvages lunch for awhile, and finally did in Spring of 2023. For the chef, I again tapped Laurent Quenioux, one of my favorite LA private chefs.

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It was pouring outside so we set the table inside. Pushing the limit of pour size, we had 17 gentleman at a single table with 8 stems each (for 5 flights).
Menu Print
Our special menu.
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From my cellar: 2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas François. VM 96. The 2002 Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart is outrageously beautiful. The ripeness of the Chardonnay is front and center in a Champagne that delivers the goods, big-time. An infusion of apricot, orange peel, crème brûlée, chamomile, hazelnut and honey give the 2002 its racy, exotic personality. I enjoy it most with bottle age, but the 2002 is undeniably beautiful right now. The 2002 is a stunning NFB. The blend is 60% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims and the Vallée de la Marne and 40% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, done partially in oak (20%). Dosage is 4 grams per liter. (Drink between 2020-2030)
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1992 Dom Pérignon Champagne P3. 96 points. Effortlessly young, superbly balanced, elegant, lifted, creamy, pear, vanilla, baked goods, sweet with barely notable but great acidity. Classically done.
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NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvee Edition 170eme. JG 95. It had been a couple of months since I first tasted the “170ème Édition” of Krug Grande Cuvée at a pre-launch tasting for the bottling back in April. It was young and very promising then and has nicely settled in and started to blossom aromatically over the summer months. The wine is from the base year of 2014 and is a blend of fifty-one percent pinot noir, thirty-eight percent chardonnay and eleven percent pinot meunier, with forty-five percent of the cuvée composed from reserve wines. The “170ème Édition” of Grande Cuvée is really starting to become expressive aromatically, offering up scents of apple, pear, passion fruit, brioche, citrus blossoms, a beautiful foundation of limestone soil tones and patissière. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and sports superb mid-palate depth of fruit, with fine mineral undertow, refined mousse and simply marvelous balance and bounce on the very long, complex and still properly racy finish. (Drink between 2022-2065)
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NV Duval-Leroy Champagne Femme de Champagne.
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We had a lovely Champagne reception in the Drawing Room. Rich Weiss hit it out of the park with a 1992 P3.
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Chef Laurent Quenioux in the house! Laurent has cooked at home for us before and is an amazing chef.

Growing up in Sologne, France, Bistro LQ Owner & Executive Chef Laurent Quenioux developed his love of game and wild strawberries with his parents: he would hunt duck, partridge, rabbit and hare with his father, and practice cooking his mother’s recipes at home in the kitchen. When he completed his education, he entered into an apprenticeship in the South of France where, according to Laurent, “everything is about fat duck, goose liver and foie gras.”

After working and honing his skills in some of the finest kitchens in France, Laurent moved to the United States with a team from L’Oasis at La Napoule to open The Regency Club in Los Angeles. In 1985, he introduced the celebrated and award-winning 7th Street Bistro in downtown Los Angeles, serving groundbreaking French Nouvelle California cuisine which became a favorite spot for the mayor and Hollywood celebrities. Subway construction led to the closing of the 7th Street Bistro after a decade, and Laurent spent the late 1990s as the Executive Chef for Dodgers Stadium.

In the early 2000s, he returned to his restaurant roots with the debut of the cozy Bistro K in Pasadena, earning accolades for his originality and precision with a revolutionary menu designed to open the senses and minds of his guests to new possibilities, tastes and textures. With the opening of Bistro LQ in July 2009, Laurent brought his edgy style and ingenuity to a larger & more central location in Los Angeles near West Hollywood.

Feeling a need to take new risks and expand his vision, Laurent closed Bistro LQ in Spring of 2011 for a culinary and creative sabbatical. Presently Laurent is working on a biographic book project while cooking at his popular experimental “Fooding” Supper Club @MaMaison and around Los Angeles, London, Paris and Amsterdam.
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gougères. Always yummy, although these could have been a bit cheesier.
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veal tartare parmesan cake. Lots of flavor as there were “sneaky” umami elements.
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sweet herring roll. This was my favorite of the passing apps, as it had this delicious smoky fish.
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merguez confit niçois polenta cake. Lots of flavor here too.
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2010 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 95. While the Ramonet Bâtard is virtually never rustic this seems unusually refined and admirably pure with an orchard fruit and intensely floral nose that already offers impressive complexity. In typical Bâtard fashion this is quite powerful and dense with sleekly muscled big-bodied flavors that possess remarkable amounts of dry extract that largely if not completely buffer the firm acid spine on the almost painfully intense and stunningly long finish that is absolutely bone dry. While it’s not true everywhere, in particular chez Pernot for example, I often prefer Ramonet’s Bâtard to their Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet but in 2010 that is far from clear. What is clear however is that both are absolutely terrific and to the extent that you are fortunate enough to find them, and your pocketbook can stand the damage, I strongly recommend that you acquire both as the upside potential they exhibit is nothing short of remarkable. (Drink starting 2020)
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2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne. VM 95+. A statuesque, refined wine, the 2010 Corton-Charlemagne stands out for its impeccable balance and understated personality. A hint of vanillin in the bouquet leads to bright citrus, white flowers, crushed rocks and spice in a delicate, beautifully nuanced Corton-Charlemagne that emphasizes refinement over power. (Drink starting 2014)
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From my cellar: 2010 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Vireuils. VM 92+. Subtle citrussy nose. At once tactile and juicy, with excellent mineral spine to support the lemon and pineapple flavors. The very long, stony finish shows the combination of sweetness and energy of the vintage’s better examples.
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2012 Louis Latour Montrachet. BH 92-94. A dense and notably ripe if not exactly typical nose features notes of petrol, menthol and spice nuances that sit atop the otherwise cool scents of apricot and floral notes. There is a citrusy character to the broad-shouldered, powerful and complex flavors that ooze plenty of dry extract that really coats the palate on the markedly dry and strikingly long finish. Not surprisingly this is very backward at present and this is going to require at least 6 to 8 years to be approachable and 12 to 15 to reach its full apogee. (Drink starting 2024)
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Bordier Butter and La Creme baguette. It’s all about the butter!
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smoked haddock | cauliflower cream| ostera caviar | spring onion | potato. This was a great dish. Not only was it very pretty, but it had lovely flavors and interesting textures. Smoky fish (which I love), plus the caviar / cream vibe.
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Deserves a second pic.
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The gang.
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And the ladies table.
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2014 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Le Montrachet. BH 95. A background note of reduction only mildly reduces the appeal of the ripe citrus and airy white flower aromas. There is good if not massive size and weight to the rich, fleshy and mouth coating large-bodied and dense flavors that brim with a fine minerality on the almost painfully intense and sneaky long finish. This gorgeously classy effort is like a number of examples of Montrachet in 2014 in that there is more finesse than usual. Either way this powerful but silky effort is going to need a long snooze in a cool cellar to realize its full and considerable potential. (Drink starting 2026)
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2017 Blain-Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 94. A cool, pure and restrained nose that could accurately be described as elegant offers up notes of citrus zest, white flowers, green apple and pretty spice nuances. The super-sleek and intense if once again not particularly dense flavors do possess a lovely sense of delineation on the balanced, saline and gorgeously long finish. This too will need to add depth but given the structure and balance, it should progressively develop. (Drink starting 2027)
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2015 Domaine Michel Niellon Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 93. A very ripe but not surmature mix of pear liqueur, spice, petrol and matchstick aromas leads to super-rich, round and palate drenching flavors that are dense to the point of possessing a borderline creamy mouth feel, indeed it is almost thick. This isn’t quite as complex as the Chevalier but as is usually the case it is more powerful and perhaps even a bit longer as well. I would make the same observation here that this isn’t a typical Niellon Bâtard but if I can find it I will buy it anyway. (Drink starting 2020)
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2015 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne. VM 95. The 2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a powerful, dense wine. It possesses tremendous richness and tons of intensity. Radiance and phenolic intensity are two of the signatures. That’s about all I can tell you, as the 2015 is nowhere near ready to drink. It does have tremendous potential though, that is clear. (Drink between 2025-2035)
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dover sole | tortilla & cilantro veloute | young zucchini. I love these intricate stuffed dishes. Very french. The sauce had light Mexican tomatillo sauce vibes, but very mild so as to not overwelm the fish. I particularly liked the soft inside “fish pate.”

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1995 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes. VM 95. Deep, full red; remarkably dark for its age. Knockout soil-driven nose combines red and black fruits, flowers, spices, minerals, licorice and crushed stone, plus a whiff of cherry liqueur; this one displays all of this site’s key food groups! A compellingly sappy, concentrated wine with terrific breadth and sweetness but also strong framing acidity to its energetic flavors of dark berries, bitter chocolate, violet, spices and salty minerality; considerably deeper than either the ’96 or ’98. This densely packed, seamless wine delivers an exhilarating combination of verve and sucrosité and finishes with splendid vivacity for the vintage. In fact, this particularly bottle struck me as very young, still with a lot in reserve. A second bottle tasted chez moi in January was dark red with ruby tones. It was a bit less expressive on the nose, conveying black fruits and menthol, then sappy but not particularly fleshy in the middle palate, more dominated today by its spine of acidity and tannins. While it struck me as a bit less deep than the first bottle, it nonetheless showed terrific density and thrust and came across as equally youthful. In fact, my notes say that it could go on for another 20+ years. When I first tasted this wine in bottle with Joseph Roty in 1997, he told me that the fruit was picked with potential alcohol close to 14%. And yet the pH here is the lowest of all of the wines in my vertical tasting. (14% alcohol; 3.15 pH; 31 h/h) (Drink between 2019-2040)
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1996 Louis Latour Chambertin Cuvée Héritiers Latour. 92 points.
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1996 Domaine Maume Charmes-Chambertin. 91 points.
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sauteed foie gras printanier | baby turnips | young carrots | snap peas | english peas | smoked duck breast | “grattons” | perigord black truffles. Awesome foie prep. Perfectly seared yet very soft and scrumptious. The truffles were used perfectly and the rich reduction was great. The smoked duck breast would have fooled me into thinking it was pancetta or guanciale.

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1996 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes. BH 91. In contrast to some of the Ponsot ’96s the Clos de la Roche is really quite good with lovely aromatic complexity on the fully mature yet still vibrant and fresh red berry fruit, spice, earth, game and smoke hints. The is reasonably good density in the context of a vintage that produced any number of lighter wines and the old vines clearly show as the phenolic maturity of the remaining tannins is much better than the average ’96, all wrapped in a delicious and solidly long finish that displays only a trace of acid tang. Tasted several times with mostly consistent notes. (Drink starting 2013)
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1999 Michel Magnien Clos St. Denis. VM 93+. Saturated deep ruby. Roasted plum, blackberry, licorice, mocha and bitter chocolate on the nose. Creamy and very intensely flavored, with outstanding depth of fruit. Lifted by a flavor of bitter chocolate. A wine of uncanny energy and thrust, made almost entirely from tiny millerande grapes. Very long, gripping finish. These ’99 grand crus will need at least seven or eight years of additional cellaring.
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From my cellar: 1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes. 94 points. A combination of superb floral aroma and complex taste in this relatively old wine. Perfect for 2 hours in the glass before it started to fade. Wordless for this stuff.
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2000 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin. JG 96. The 2000 Rousseau Chambertin another majestic example of the vintage, and there cannot be too many 2000 reds that are in this same league. The deep and utterly classic nose soars from the glass in a blend of raspberries, cherries, clove-like spice tones, coffee, a touch of venison, cedary wood and that magically complex signature of Chambertin soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very complex, with a great, great core of fruit, exquisite focus and balance, seamless tannins and exceptional length and grip on the poised, elegant and powerful finish. A great example of Chambertin. (Drink between 2013-2040)
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pintade hen | veal tendons | chipotle | epazote | morels. Another interesting (and fabulous) stuffed dish. I loved the hen/veal roll, particularly as the tendons inside lent it a great jelly-like texture. Morels are always welcome too.

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2002 Domaine Perrot-Minot Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes. VM 92. Bright red-ruby. Slightly reduced but highly nuanced aromas of rose petal, mocha, dark chocolate and smoke. Sweet, round, creamy and seamless, with fleshy flavors of raspberry, iron and blood orange. Broad, lush and silky but not heavy. Finishes very long, with suave, thoroughly ripe tannins. A superb showing.
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2002 Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares. VM 95. Ruby-red. Flamboyantly rich aromas of blackberry, minerals and chocolate. Fat, rich and powerful; compellingly sweet and dense but with terrific thrust as well. Superripe flavors of chocolate and black plum. Finishes very long and powerful, with big but thoroughly ripe tannins. Offers great potential.
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2002 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart. BH 93. The generous wood this displayed from cask has begun to integrate and no longer sticks out on the expressive and extremely ripe black fruit and plum suffused nose that is nuanced by hints of torrefaction, earth and coffee. The supple, delicious, round and textured full-bodied flavors are notably robust and underpinned by very firm tannins as well as loads of buffering extract. This is a powerful yet detailed wine that does seem to carry its alcohol well with only a trace of finishing warmth. In sum, this is a borderline massive and unbelievably long wine that bathes the palate in sappy extract though note that it is so youthful that it will require ample cellar time to arrive at its apogee, especially in magnum format. (Drink starting 2027)
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bleu d’auvergne (mucida) | maroilles (foetidum) | accompaniments.lat savarin (triplex crepito) 
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On the plate.
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From my cellar: 2013 Paolo Bea Arboreus. 90 points. sound bottle. 3 hours of air. ripe apricots and oranges on the nose. palate brings mild sherry-like oxidation with grapefruit pith bitterness. good acidity. not getting any oiliness
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From my cellar: 1997 Château d’Yquem. 94 points. The 1997 Yquem comes from a season that witnessed the earliest-ever flowering (5 May) and an early picking that began on 4 September, though botrytis failed to develop, necessitating seven tries through the vineyard over 32 days of picking that lasted until 4 November. One aspect to note is how deep in colour this is compared to the 2003 that Sandrine Garbay served alongside. The nose offers marmalade and quince, hints of yellow plum and honey, not quite as precise as the previous bottle that I tasted in May the previous year, though it displays less of that adhesive trait. The palate has a lovely piquancy, very tangy with driving marmalade and Seville orange notes. The 5g/L of total acidity maintains the tension of the 1997, though maybe it is a little more evolved than I might have expected. Still, it remains a magnificent Yquem that will last many decades. Tasted from ex-château bottle in London. (Drink between 2022-2045)
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From my cellar: 1988 Château Climens. VM 91. Green-edged straw color. Sweet butter, marzipan and a bright, riesling-like note of petrol on the nose. Fresh, firm and sharply delineated; the least rich and the driest of these three vintages, in the style of the year. But quite concentrated. Intriguing note of white raisin. Finishes very long and firm, with a slight sensation of disjointed acidity. Fairly dry on the back end.

I went all out on the gelato:

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Birch Beer Gelato — Birch Beer flavored gelato base topped with Valrhona White Chocolate Pearls — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #RootBeer #RootBeerFlaot #Sarsaparilla #whitechocolate #Varlrhona
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Nocciola White Gelato — Nocciola (hazelnut) base made with Pure PGI Piedmont hazelnut paste mixed with house-made Valrhona White Chocolate Hazelnut Bark — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — one of my signature flavors –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #hazelnut #nocciola #white #Chocolate #bark
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Snickerdoodle Gelato NSA — A cinnamon vanilla base, but this version is No Sugar Added and formulated with Allulose — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #snickerdoodle #cookie #cinnamon #vanilla #nsa #allulose
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Salty Pistachio Gelato – Pistachio di Bronte DOGC produces an intense pistachio base to which I added just a touch of salt — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #pistachio #sicily #nuts #salt
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Salty Pistachio Gelato NSA – Pistachio di Bronte DOGC produces an intense pistachio base to which I added just a touch of salt — this version was formulated No Sugar Added with Allulose — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #pistachio #sicily #nuts #salt #nsa #allulose
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Sweet Milk Signature Flavor — Italian Lemon Cookie Meringue Pie — Limoncello Zabaione base with lemon cookie flavor mixed with Italian Lemon Creme Cookies and Sicilian Candied Lemon and topped with house-made toasted Meringue — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #lemon #LemonCookie #cookie #Sorento #Limoncello #Meringue #LemonMeringuePie
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Strawberry Margarita Sorbetto! — like a frozen cocktail — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Strawberries from Avignon, blended with fresh lime, Reposado Tequila and Cointreau –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #strawberry #Margarita #cocktail #Tequila #Cointreau
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Chocolate truffles.
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pâte de fruit.
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Overall, an amazing lunch and one of the best Sauvages yet — if I do say so myself 🙂 — but this was a thought echoed by many attendees. The food was perfect and we had so many great wines. A little crew of 4 of us did the pouring using shot glasses to measure out the pours. It worked great in terms of getting a fair pour all the way around, but was a ton of work / concentration.

Related posts:

  1. Upstairs with Sauvages
  2. Sauvages Crustacean
  3. Champagne Sauvages
  4. Sauvages Tesse
  5. Sauvages 2 at Upstairs 2
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Burgundy, BYOG, Champagne, Gelato, Laurent Quenioux, Sauvages, villamalka, Wine

In the Mood for Moodaepo?

Oct12

Restaurant: Moodaepo

Location: 3014 7th St, Los Angeles, CA. (213) 381-9990

Date: February 28, 2023

Cuisine: Korean BBQ

Rating: Actual place is just a AYCE joint

_

Okay — this was a strange dinner. Originally, Jeffrey, Erick, and I were supposed to go to Teleferic — but in classic Jeffrey fashion he jumped the gun, went a few days earlier, then wanted to do a big gang bang instead in order to make a show for his Instagram buddy — so we ended up going with Bovon to Moodaepo.
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Now, normally, Moodaepo is just a big chaotic KTown AYCE KBBQ joint. I never go to that sort of place as I’m not price sensitive and you just have an odd format and lower quality in service of a perceived lower price. It also misaligns the resteraunt incentives in a way that I really dislike.

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Others obviously don’t feel that way, because the place was packed.
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The typical multi-tier AYCE format. Not relevant for us because Bovon brought most of the proteins — including ones that weren’t on the menu. So this was sort of BYOM (Bring Your Own Meat) as well as BYOG and BYOB.
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Banchan bar. This wasn’t for customer’s directly, but the staff were using it to refill banchan dishes.
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Kimchee, macaroni, etc.
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Fish cakes (my favorite), glass noodles, bean sprouts.
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Potato salad.
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Veggies for the grill and spicy miso sauce.
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A different (slightly sweet) spicy sauce, salt, and yummy sweetened spicy soy.
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Rice wrappers and pickled daikon.
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Salad. Neither my most or least favorite Korean salad. Just ok.
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The wine was as gang bang as the food.

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Caviar bump!
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Bovon going all Salt Bae.
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Too much filming. I may take pictures but I kinda loath video at dinners. Gets in the way of being a hedonist.

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White rice. duh!
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Fresh scallops marinated in tumeric sauce. Delicious, particularly when lightly cooked.

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Scallop with its own caviar bump.
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Sliced prime rib.

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Cooked up thinnly.
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A4 Short rib. Much more fat and flavor.
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Garlic sizzling in sesame oil. The beef was great “cooked” in this!
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More meat!

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Rip cap and porterhouse.

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Juicy!

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Giant bone marrow!

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First cooked on the grill, but when that was going too slow…
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into the oven it went. We scraped this out, some people on rice, me myself on rib cap!

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Posers. hehe.

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Tomahawk!
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So juicy. The sizzling rip cap parts of this were some of the best steak I’ve had.

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A5 slices.
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Very juicy.
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Elk Tenderloin. Lean and flavorful.

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On the grill.
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One of my earliest Signature Flavors —Tiramisu Gelato — The base is a highly technical Zabaione of Egg Yolk, Fresh Mascarpone Cheese, and Sweet Marsala with Fresh Brewed Espresso. It’s dusted with Valrhona Cocoa powder and layered with house-made Vanilla Rum Espresso syrup-soaked Lady Fingers — the final result is totally Tiramisu — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #Tiramisu #Espresso #coffee #chocolate #Marsala #Zabaione #Eggyolk #Rum #Mascarpone

Overall, a very crazy big “mass market” AYCE KBBQ with a huge crowd of the young and the hungry (or at least plus size). But we took over a huge triple table and Bovon (who supplies to the owners) brought all his own premiem proteins, none of which are actually on the menu. I think as to actual restaurant food we only had the banchan/sauces etc and the sliced Prime Rib. This was a fun (if chaotic) and tasty meal, but it’s not really reflective of Moodaepo on a normal night.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Rockin’ Ten Raku
  2. Kang Ho-dong Baekjeong
  3. Soot Bull Jeep
  4. Black Goat at Mirak
  5. Thai Tour – Night+Market Song
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: beef, BYOG, Foodie Club, Gelato, KBBQ, Ktown, Moodaepo, Wine

Pure Lafleur

Oct05

Restaurant: The Aster

Location: 1717 Vine St, Los Angeles, CA 90028. (323) 962-1717

Date: February 25, 2023

Cuisine: Modern French

Rating: Great food, amazing wines

_

Sage Society always do some of the most incredible wine dinners. Tonight’s was a rare treat: Chateau Lafleur!
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It was located at the Aster, a hotel and private club in Hollywood. Above is the bar.
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The club’s view of the city.
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Getting a short tour before the dinner, I check out the club caberet.
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A sky bridge between the buildings.
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Another of its 5 bars.
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The lounge.
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The pool courtyard — soggy night!

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Finally, back to the bar, we retire into our private room.
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The intimate table for this Lafleur winemaker dinner, hosted by Sage Society.
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The big wines have been decanted.
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More wines getting ready.
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The menu for the night. The club chef is Marcel Vigneron who cooked at my house in 2015.
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2005 Gonet-Médeville Cuvée Theophile Extra Brut.
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Amuses.
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Hamachi Sashimi. A lovely bite of yellowtail with cucumber and a rice chip. There was a nice textural interplay between the soft cool fish, the crunchy chip, and the firm cucumber. The flavor was unique for this kind of bite and reminded me a bit of sunomono, so presumably there was rice wine, sugar, and vinegar.
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Squash Blossom Fritter. The texture was great, very crispy and fried. The ricotta inside was nice and soft but perhaps this could have used some counter balance (to the fry) like a romesco.
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Kumiai Oyster. With foam. Marcel is famous for foam!
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Sage Society president Liz Lee introduces the guests.
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A rather ill-cropped and out-of-focus photo of Omri Ram, the winemaker for Lafleur.
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Center left is owner of Martine’s Wines, Gregory Castells. I met him previously at this amazing Otium dinner years ago
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Chef Marcel Vigneron on the left.
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All Sauvignon Blanc (cuttings from the Loire) with lovely acidity.
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A rich depth.
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Striped Bass. Crunchy skin. Clams with “Tom Yum” foam. Very nice complement and I particularly enjoyed the clams and their tasty foam.
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2019 Les Perrières de Lafleur. VM 90+. The 2019 Les Perrières de Lafleur is too oaky on the nose and this masks the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, graphite infused black fruit with a strict and structured finish redeemed by satisfying freshness. A bit “serious” for a Pomerol at this level, but it may surprise with bottle age. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting. (Drink between 2026-2043)
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2017 Guinaudeau “G” Acte 9. VM 92. The 2017 Acte 9 is fabulous. Rich, dense and expansive, Acte 9 possesses terrific textural resonance and volume. Ripe red cherry/plum fruit, mint, tobacco and a whole range of mineral inflections race out of the glass in a vibrant, racy wine loaded with personality. I won’t be surprised if the 2017 turns out even better than this note suggests. The 2017 Acte 9 emerges from a brutal year that took with it 90% of the production during the late April frost. All of the Cabernet Franc was lost, which means that Acte 9 is 100% Merlot. The 2017 is the last vintage of this wine under the Acte moniker. (Drink between 2020-2032)
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Crispy Pork Belly. A big cube of pig with a delightfully crunchy skin atop a bed of cabbage and some kind of slightly tangy emulsion sauce. Great dish as I’m a cabbage fan and especially a porky cabbage fan.
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2019 Château Lafleur Les Pensées. VM 94. The 2019 Pensées de Lafleur is composed and focused on the nose. An old school Pomerol in the positive sense, with truffle and ash scents emerging over time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine acidity, pencil lead and black pepper towards its cohesive and persistent finish. This is a class act. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting. (Drink between 2026-2050)

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2017 Pensées de Lafleur. VM 94. The 2017 Pensées de Lafleur is simply stunning. Tasting it today, I can only conclude that Pensées is obviously more complete and enthralling than many Grand Vins in this vintage. Explosive, deep and beautifully resonant, the Pensées shows tremendous depth and energy, not to mention so much character. What else can I say, except that I absolutely loved it. (Drink between 2022-2037)
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Duck Confit. With crispy skin atop a bed of lentils. Classic French pairing and quite delicious.
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2014 Château Lafleur. VM 95. The 2014 Lafleur has a tightly wound bouquet with earthy, truffle tinged black fruit, hints of dried blood and black truffle developing with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin encasing a sweet core of candied red fruit. The Merlot is very expressive here and offers more brightness than many of its Pomerol peers, which is unusual for a Pomerol so saturnine in its youth. Just beautiful. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting. (Drink between 2024-2050)
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2013 Château Lafleur. VM 90. The 2013 Lafleur, from the infamously maligned growing season, was picked entirely in October. It has a light and slightly monotone bouquet with mulberry and blackberry scents, a touch of briary and floral scents. The aromatics are nothing to be ashamed of. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, more Merlot than Cabernet Franc-driven, balanced if missing the complexity of most vintages from this esteemed Pomerol growth. Not bad, however it is not a long-term prospect and lacks the cerebral element that Lafleur often brings to the table. Tasted at the Christies’ Lafleur masterclass in London. (Drink between 2020-2032)
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2011 Château Lafleur. VM 94. The 2011 Lafleur has an almost Left Bank-like bouquet, well-defined and poised, quite fresh with tobacco and cigar box scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins with a fine bead of acidity. Quite fresh and lightly spiced with white pepper and tobacco emerging towards the finish. This is a deeply impressive Pomerol in context of the growing season. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting. (Drink between 2022-2045)
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Ancho Braised Short Ribs. Ancho is a smoky pepper, and while this beef had lots of flavor it didn’t really have any heat. But it was a delicious shredable bit of braised beef with a delicate bed of polenta and a nice salty reduction. The tomatoes provided just enough sweet acidity to balance the richness of the dish.
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2007 Château Lafleur. VM 92. The 2007 Lafleur has a straightforward bouquet with mulberry and strawberry pastilles, touches of scorched earth and game coming through courtesy of the Cabernet Franc. I admire the definition and poise on display here. The palate is medium-bodied with quite bold tannin and satisfying ripeness considering the growing season, a mixture of red and black fruit laced with black pepper, truffle and clove, that lead towards a solid, firm finish. Though this is an off vintage, this showing suggests it will benefit from another couple of years in bottle. Tasted at the Christies’ Lafleur masterclass in London. (Drink between 2020-2038)
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2006 Château Lafleur. VM 93+. Good red-ruby. Pungent aromas of kirsch, violet, black olive, menthol and mint. Rich, sweet and suave, with a slightly medicinal cast to the seriously concentrated dark fruit flavors. This vibrant wine coats the entire mouth and builds impressively on the back half, where the big, broad tannins are nicely buffered by fruit. A splendid showing today.
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1986 Château Lafleur. 94 points. Probably worth more points, but a perfect aged Pomerol for the duck course. Evolved and showed best after an hour and a half. Plum, bit of funk, hints of sweet spice and red fruits. Balanced and great length. Not “old world” Lafleur but solid.
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1983 Château Lafleur. VM 96. The 1983 Lafleur is the vintage that alerted me to the pedigree of this Pomerol growth back in 2004, so I have a sentimental attachment to it. A recent encounter served blind in Hong Kong confirms that the Lafleur ranks alongside the 1983 Cheval Blanc as the best Right Bank of the vintage. It is quite precocious and generous on the nose with sorbet-like red fruit tinged with peppermint and truffle oil. It has lost a little cohesion in recent years but offers more secondary scents of leather and sage. The palate has wondrous balance and poise: hints of iron infusing the supple red fruit with a complex and detailed finish. Well-stored bottles will continue giving immense pleasure. Tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux. (Drink between 2018-2035)
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Venison Wellington. Quite dense and an excellent pairing with the peerless Lafleur. Probably my least favorite savory, but excellent nonetheless.
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NV Niepoort Porto 20 Year Old Tawny.

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2015 Niepoort Porto Vintage.
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3 Cheeses with Toasted Bread.
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My thoughts.
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Les vins.

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This bottle was off and replaced.
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Overall, an amazing dinner. It’s smaller, more intimate size, plus the great food, wine, and company, really helped elevate it to the very highest level.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Sauvages Bordeaux
  2. Banging Bicyclette
  3. 2009 Bordeaux Doesn’t Blow
  4. Passover Seder 2011 – day 2
  5. Sauvages Bordeaux
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Bordeaux, club, Gregory Castells, Lafleur, Liz Lee, Marcel Vigneron, Martine's Wines, Omri Ram, Sage Society, Wine

Orsa & Winston

Sep25

Restaurant: Orsa & Winston

Location: FARMERS AND MERCHANTS BANK BUILDING, 122 4th St, Los Angeles, CA 90013. (213) 687-0300

Date: February 16, 2023

Cuisine: Modern American Italian Japanese

Rating: light and very interesting

_

Orsa & Winston is inspired by Italian and Japanese flavors, connected by the creativity of chef Josef Centeno. They were awarded a Michelin star in 2019 & 2021 and chosen as L.A. Times restaurant of the year in 2020.1A4A4656-Pano
Interior is small and intimate.
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Open kitchen (of course).
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Tasting menu only.
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Amuse. Chawanmushi with ice plant. Very much the classic “egg tofu” texture. Slightly bitter flavors and a bit of a black pepper kick.
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They don’t allow corkage! Boo! But they did have an interesting wine pairing.
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Crudo of Hamachi, fava beans, some kind of citrus. Very pleasant and light.
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Mushrooms.
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Saffron Scallop with a bit of green. Very classic combination, creamy, and quite nice. Not very big of course.
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More paired wines.
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Bitter greens salad. Maybe endive. Interesting crunch, a bit of salinity from the salmon roe, and a quite bitter lettuce profile. Interesting pairing with the oddball white Bordeaux.
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Wine.
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Sphagetti with Tomato Sauce and Truffle. Like a high end Spaghetti Pomodoro. Pretty darn tasty. Pasta had some chew, but seemed overcooked compared to a true Italian al dente.
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Seafood Satsuki Rice Porridge (supplement). This was my favorite dish (even if it was a carb cheat). Basically a buttery seafood risotto with uni, abalone, etc. I guess technically it’s also like a congee, but such a heavy butter and cream emulsion made it feel far closer to risotto. Either way it was delicious.
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Gift of polenta and cheese. Mild and pleasant although fairly bland. I’m never a huge polenta fan.

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Wine.
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Hamachi Collar with greens and black truffle. Pretty yummy and an interesting Italian/Japanese fusion.

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Honey Cornbread. I really enjoyed this — cheat that it was.
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Wine.
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Mixed Berry Panna Cotta.
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Chocolate Coconut Cookies. Yummy.
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Overall, a light and very interesting meal. Unique dishes for the most part, but a slightly complex and bitter tonal profile and the only thing that stood out as out and out DELICIOUS was the seafood porridge. Pretty small tasting menu, however, even with the supplement I was exactly stuffed. Plus there is the annoying no corkage factor.
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For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Persistent Providence
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Dinner, DTLA, fusion, italian, Japanese, Josef Centeno, no corkage, Orsa & Winston, Wine

Rhone & the Goat

Sep05

Restaurant: Girl & the Goat [1, 2]

Location: 555-3 Mateo St, Los Angeles, CA 90013. (213) 799-4628

Date: February 8, 2023

Cuisine: Modern American

Rating: Very tasty, some service “issues” with large parties (no private space)

_

This is my second time here.  Food is really good, but generally when Yarom returns he opens a bunch of SQN — blech.  However, tonight as a top flight Rhone dinner, which is perfect with goat and more my style.
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They are located in a fairly cute offshoot area of downtown I don’t think I have been to.

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Swank build out, although we (fortunately) sat outside.

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Our table — not quite large enough.
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Super-fun night was a great crew, great wines, and great food! We certainly had a LOT of it too.
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Jeffrey and I collaborated on the menu which turned out to be perfect. Not listed is the epic Goat Shoulder. They initially tried to get us to take their standard large party menu which had almost every other dish on the paper menu — all the lame carby ones — and NO GOAT!?!
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2008 Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Rare. 93 points.
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Krug rose.
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Bille rose.
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1989 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc. 92 points. Actually great!
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2017 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc. VM 96. Translucent yellow. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe pear, yellow plum, orange zest, smoky minerals and jasmine, along with a deeper suggestion of honey. Honeysuckle, energetic, sharply delineated citrus, orchard fruit flavors stain the palate and become weightier with aeration. The mineral note expands as the wine opens up and drives an impressively long, chewy finish that features lingering floral, brioche and saffron notes. (Drink between 2027-2036)
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roasted oysters. clam baguette . sausage butter . oyster sauce mayo . finger lime. I just ate the oyster (skipping the bread) but it was pretty good with bright flavors and richness — and I don’t usually love cooked oysters.
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1983 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. JG 96. I have been a huge fan of the 1983 Chave in all of its various guises, and this most recent bottle was the finest I have yet had the pleasure to taste. The wine was at its absolute apogee, as it soared from the glass in a classic blend of black raspberries, black olives, grilled venison, a bit of bacon fat, ground pepper, great stony soil tones, espresso, and a bit of violet in the upper register. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep, pure and very transparent down to its stony soil, with a rock solid core of pure, black raspberry fruit, great complexity, melting tannins, bright acids and stunning length and grip on the pure and profound finish. Unlike the more recent vintages of Chave Hermitage, which seem to have all of their quality on the surface, this wine wells up from the depths of the glass and is clearly a wine of bottomless beauty. The best bottle yet of the 1983 that I have had the pleasure to taste, and I drink this vintage with some regularity! (Drink between 2008-2025)
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1985 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. JG 95. I finished up my last bottles of 1985 Chave Hermitage a few years back, after having been very happy with the case I bought many, many years ago, but always having the feeling that with each bottle I drunk that the wine had not yet reached its absolute apogee of peak maturity. This is also a vintage of Chave where there is quite a bit of bottle variation, as reportedly, there were three slightly different “blends” produced by Gérard Chave in this year, to match the wishes of his various importers. In any case, this most recent bottle was the finest example of the 1985 that I have ever tasted and fully open and singing, offering up a very complex and red fruity nose of raspberries, spiced meats, pepper, a touch of cocoa powder, bonfires, incipient notes of forest floor, lavender and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and gorgeously transparent, with a great core of fruit, stunning complexity, melted tannins and a very long, tangy and beautifully balanced finish. Makes me wish I was only just starting in on my own case of the 1985! (Drink between 2019-2060)
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1991 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. VM 96. The same is true of the 1991 Hermitage. A few months ago, I had a bottle of the Cuvée Cathelin, one of my favorite wines on the planet, so I was curious to check in on the Hermitage. Here it is the wine’s suppleness and silkiness that are utterly captivating. Expressive floral notes linger on the open, caressing finish.
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duck tartare. gochujang mayo . cape gooseberries . sesame . fried brussels. This was eaten all mixed up and it was quite delicious with the gochujang mayo dominating and adding a mustardy slightly spicy zing. Great texture too.

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goat liver mousse. crumpets . biscuit crackers . pickled manquats . persimmon-apple jam . craisin relish. First of all the crumpets, vaguely like Chinese fried bread that they were, were hot and delicious. Then the liver itself was much like chicken liver, very smooth and rich. It was nicely offset by the pickles and/or jam — particularly on on one of the bread options.
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shrimp & crispy greens. avocado . satsuma mandarin . pepita crunch . limey-herby dressing. Great crispy texture and a nice bright acidic sweet salad.
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Good times.
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2000 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. VM 92-95. Full ruby. Raw red berries, leather and pepper on the nose. Thick and silky but bright; youthful and primary. Boasts good power for the vintage. Peleat: Bright deep ruby. Complex, stony aromas of tobacco, mocha, brown spices, pepper and iris. Smooth and vinous, with terrific class and delicacy more than power. Already offers lovely detail. Finishes firmly tannic and persistent. Very expressive of the vintage. L’Hermite: Saturated ruby. Explosive, quintessential Hermitage aromas of raw currant, leather, game, minerals and cedary spice. Supple and silky but quite unevolved. Here the tannins come off as a bit tough. Bessards: Deeper, more medicinal aromas of black fruits, cassis leaf and leather. Quite powerfully constituted but not yet sweet. A very serious, tannic lot that will provide the spine for the ultimate blend. Bessards from a new barrique: Sexy aromas of black raspberry, licorice, espresso and bitter chocolate. Sweeter in the middle than the last sample, then tough on the back end, with strong oak tannins showing. Bessards yet again: Aroma of raw crushed currant. Sauvage and minerally in the mouth; supple texture nicely framed by integrated acidity. A lovely blend of sweetness and tannic structure. Peppery on the back end. Very much a wine from granite soil. Meal: Sappy aromas of redcurrant, minerals and brown spices. Less fresh in the middle than the Bessards, with tannins a bit tough. Meal again: Roasted redcurrant, smoke, minerals and game on the nose. Silkier and more pliant in the mouth; this offers much better balance and more finesse than the last mouthful. Here the tannins are less rigid. The tougher sample was from a parcel that yielded just 25 hectoliters per hectare, while this parcel produced 35, noted Jean-Louis. Should make a lovely drink, though it’s hard to believe this wine will equal the ’99.
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2003 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. VM 98. “Now we take the monster out of his cage,” Jean-Louis warned me before pouring this. Inky, almost black in color. Elemental, hugely concentrated and powerful on the nose, which slowly unveils aromas of dark cherry liqueur, blackberry, cassis, espresso and a deep note of sweet tobacco. Impossibly rich and dense on the palate (the yields in 2003 were off by two-thirds), showing myriad dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors, with a suggestion of tapenade and an intense licorice quality. Remarkably, this takes on a mineral tone on the finish, which has the effect of further drawing out the amazingly powerful finish.
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2007 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. VM 95-96. A real fruit bomb, with sexy aromas of red berries, cherry and cassis. Lithe and precise on the palate, with tangy mineral lift and very good cut. From Beaume: Exotic, intensely floral aromas of violet, lavender and magnolia. Sweet red fruits and spices on the palate, with the floral quality repeating. Again from Beaume: Spicy and mineral-driven, with sappy red berry flavors and gentle tannins. Less wild than the previous barrel. From L’Hermite: Musky cherry and dark berry aromas are complicated by minerals and underbrush. Fleshy dark berry and cherry pit flavors cling nicely to the palate. From Meal: A very rich sample, offering powerful cherry and cassis scents and a suavely smoky mineral note. Sappy and broad on the palate, displaying sweet kirsch and smoked meat qualities. From Bessards: Deep, strongly perfumed bouquet evokes cherry, cassis, cured meat and licorice. Firm and chewy, with deep dark berry flavors and slow-building tannins. “This will provide the spine of the final wine,” Chave told me. Again from Bessards: Hypnotic aromas of raspberry, candied cherry and incense, with a fresh lashing of minerals. Brisk and focused, with wonderfully pure red fruit flavors and silky texture. Impossibly pure and long on the finish. The final wine will be a riot of red and darker berry fruits, with excellent freshness and clarity.
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pork belly noodles. chili crunch . black eyed peas . pickled veggies. Great noodle dish with a very bright light flavor with crunchy bits of rich pork belly. Vague Thai vibe like many dishes here.

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braised crispy lamb. kabocha squash stew . pumpkin seed . locust bean yogurt. This was the weakest dish of the night. Some of the lamb was overcooked and dry and I don’t really like squash at all. But still it wasn’t bad.
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grilled corn. spiced coconut caramel . cotija . tajin. Definately a hint of Thai going on here but this was some seriously delicious corn on the cobb with a kind of sweet and spicy vibe.
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sautéed green beans. fish sauce vinaigrette . cashews. Interesting. Nicely cooked, still very crispy, with a richess from both the mayo-like-dressing and the cashews.

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grilled whole branzino. thai style sweet n’ sour . mung bean apple pomelo salad . pickled vegetables. Very strong Thai flavor pattern with coconut and a light curry flavor. Delicious with a nice textural interplay between the soft fish and the crispy fruits and veggies (vaguely like a papaya salad).

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2008 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. VM 91-93. Highly floral bouquet of raspberry, blackberry, violet and Asian spices. Silky in texture, with sweet, fleshy, vibrant red fruit flavors joined by a late note of tangy minerals. From Peleat: Spicy cherry and dark fruit aromas give way to a deeper plum quality with air. Weighty blackberry and kirsch flavors are framed by dusty tannins and pack a solid punch. Surprisingly ripe for this vintage. From L’Hermite: Intensely mineral scents of strawberry, cherry and herbs. Dry and tightly wound, with bitter cherry and tangy red berry flavors. Firm but not tannic, with good finishing cut. From Meal: Ripe cherry and blackcurrant on the nose, plus a hint of cracked pepper. Full, chewy and gently sweet dark fruit flavors are braced by tangy minerals and close on a smoky note. From Bessards: Impressively fresh red berry aromas, with notes of Asian spices, minerals and potpourri. Very elegant in style, with pinot-like clarity and red fruit drive. Finishes with excellent vivacity and spicy persistence. The ultimate wine should be attractive early but looks balanced to age.
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2009 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. VM 96. Drop-dead, highly aromatic bouquet of red berries, incense and potpourri, with concentrated spiciness. From Beaume: Deeper and riper (15.5% alcohol, according to Chave), with intense cassis and blueberry character and hints of licorice and bitter chocolate. From L’Ermite: Heady aromas of red and dark berry preserves, licorice and violet, with a strong note of fruitcake. From Meal: Mineral-driven dark berry and cherry aromas and flavors, with silky tannins that gain strength with air. Really expands on the back end. From La Mortine, in L’Hermite: Powerful, pungent scents of dried red fruits, cherry-cola and licorice. More floral with air. Finishes with gentle grip and dusty minerality. From Bessards, a granite and clay parcel: Distinctly smoky and rich, offering deep blackberry and bitter cherry flavors that become sweeter with air. From Bessards, all granite: Sexy red fruits and minerals on the spicy, perfumed nose. Sweet and penetrating, repeating the red fruit note emphatically. Chave says that this might be the base for Cuvee Cathelin if it develops on the trajectory he anticipates. The final 2009 wine should be a lively, precise and attractively floral-accented wine, with excellent fruit intensity and strong minerality.
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goat curry. masa chips . radish . pickled veggies. The goat curry version of Heuvos Rancheros? Interesting with the meaty curry and a lot of really crunchy and flavor-infused chips mixed in. Delicious and addictive.

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sticky glazed pork shank. shiitake . asian pear . hoisin mayo . hot mustard . naan . lettuce cups. The first of our two big meat plates this fatty delectable but also sweet and crunchy meat could be arranged into various taco-like configurations or eaten by itself. A little like Chinese pork hock.
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The pork itself and lettuce wrap options.
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Flat breads.
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Sauces for the pork.
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My lettuce taco.
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Flintstone.
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2011 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. VM 94-95. Tough to read initially, displaying scents of dried cherry, cassis and smoked meat. Chewy and deeply pitched, with sneaky spice and mineral notes coming up with air. #2, from Peleat: Fresher and more red-fruity, with intense spiciness and a hint of candied violet. Shows an appealing silkiness. #3, from L’Hermite: Explosively perfumed bouquet evokes candied red fruits, fresh flowers and minerals, with a hint of Asian spices. Juicy and precise, with strong finishing cut and focus. #4, from Meal: Exotic, floral accented red berry preserve and spicecake aromas and flavors. Sappy and precise, with excellent finishing lift and cut. #5, from Bessards: The wildest of this set, with deep cherry and dark berry character and impressive power. Finishes smoky and long, with resonating spiciness. The bottled wine should be surprisingly dense and dark-fruited for the year, with solid structure and the capacity to age.
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2015 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage. VM 97. Youthful purple color. Mineral-accented dark berries, star anise, cola, olive and pungent flowers on the explosively perfumed nose. Offers impressively concentrated, expansive flavors of black raspberry, spicecake, smoked meat and candied flowers that are complicated by licorice candy and dark chocolate notes that sneak in on the back half. Sweet, sappy and precise on the floral- and dark fruit-driven finish, which shows outstanding clarity and round, harmonious tannins that build smoothly and steadily. (Drink between 2028-2040)
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The second of our big plates was the pre-order house special Goat Shoulder. It came with pickles, various breads, lettuce wraps, and many sauces.

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Zoom.
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The crunchy fried tortilla-like breads were incredible.
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So I couldn’t resist using a diet-busting “bread” for my goat wrap.
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almond & citrus. almond buttercake . citrus ice cream . kumquats . blood orange gastrique . brown butter fun crunch. Very pleasant citrus, almost passionfruit-like flavors and texture texture variation (which is a theme at GATG).

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miso butterscotch budino. piced tuile . passion fruit honey . honey whip. I was a little dissapointed with this — now it was good — but it was also very sweet.

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The lineup.

The Chaves were incredible tonight. Every bottle was in perfect shape. The 1989 white was super complex, mellow, and “young.” The 85, 00, and 03 were particular standouts of the reds — but they were all very nice. Even the young ones were very approachable. Superb wine and paired very well with the zesty flavors here.

Food here is really good. Almost all of the dishes were really tasty. Very savory, fatty, salty and all that, but full of zest and punch. Chef Izzard was in the house on the night we went.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or for epic Foodie Club meals, here.

Related posts:

  1. Rhone at Officine Brera
  2. Girl & the Goat
  3. Goat Herding at Tar & Roses
  4. Saint Joseph at Maison G
  5. Tar & Roses got your Goat?
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Girl & the Goat, goat, Rhone, Wine

Monarch Madness

Aug27

Restaurant: Monarch

Location: 1212 S Baldwin Ave, Arcadia, CA 91007. (626) 596-2818

Date: January 29, 2023

Cuisine: Hong Kong fusion

Rating: Very good, but I like Chifa better

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The Leon family knew within the first week of opening their Peruvian Chinese restaurant Chifa in late 2020 that a sophomore effort was in the cards. Though no one in the family was especially well-versed in food service or hospitality, the tenacious squad that includes Humberto Leon, the co-founder of fashion brand Opening Ceremony; his mother, Wendy Leon; sister, Ricardina Leon; and brother-in-law, John Liu; navigated pandemic-related hurdles and ultimately found success. Now they’re ready to do it all over again with Monarch, which opened on South Baldwin Avenue in Arcadia on Saturday, January 14.
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Dressed up diner outside is totally SGV.
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Super cool dining room.

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8 is THE number for these round tables!
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Bead screen of Iguazu Falls!
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Jeffrey with Mama.
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The menu.
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Accidental grab as this was a $495 wine for Chinese!

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Michael Kaplan’s son’s home-made chili oil (excellent).
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Trusting the manager, I put in the entire menu organized into 4 flights. This 3rd flight item came out first but he graciously took it back, sorted it out, and sequenced near perfectly after that.
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Silken Steamed Egg. delicate steamed egg with monkfish liver. The texture on the egg was great. However, the monkfish liver was a bit underappreciated in this (very cooked) context.
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Decadent Spiced Okra. wok stir-fried okra in a Szechuan spice. Not particularly spicy, but very very pleasant with that goopy and crunchy okra texture.
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Filet Mignon Tartare. Westholme Australian Wagyu filet mignon with pickled snow cabbage, chili crisp and quail egg. We mixed this all up and the result was an extremely flavorful tartare.

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Shrimp chips for the tartare.
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Slippery Egg Crab Fried Fun. Cantonese wok fried rice noodle with egg, crab and salmon roe add Uni. The “Fun” was basically rice sticks but this thick starchy dish was awesome with that old school “lobster sauce” flavor + uni. Really lovely.
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Steamed Seabass Olive Tapenade. slow steamed chilean seabass topped with Chinese pickled olive tapenade. Olives are an unusual feature of southern Chinese cooking, probably courtesy of the Portuguese. They certainly worked in this night light seabass preparation.

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Black pepper lobster. This special order prep was absolutely to die for. This 5ish pound lobster was super juicy and the black pepper sauce on of the best stir-fry sauces ever. Putting it on those thick al dente noodles was absolutely to die for. Once the oily pepper sauce soaked into the noodles… oh yeah!
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Again, just because.
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The gang.
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Monarch Bolognese. simmered pork and tomato ragu with Chinese egg noodle. Even on their return in proper sequence this was a contentious dish. The porky Bolognese, while a touch dry, was quite lovely. But the noodles tended to clump.

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Addicting Curry Noodle. fragrant and spicy curry squid ink noodle with scallop, calamari and shrimp. We all much preferred this unusual noodle dish with its grainy yellow curry flavor. Really was addicting.
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Garlic Sweet & Sour Pork. crispy fried pork with Popo’s sweet & sour sauce, onions and kiwi. Like a high end Panda Express Sweet & Sour Pork! Very fried and drowned in this sweet and jammy sauce.
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Black Pepper Lobster Tail. Whole lobster tail wok tossed in sweet and spicy black pepper sauce — noodles added. The lobster (and its noodles) were so good that we ordered two tails worth of lobster with MORE noodles. However they were out of the thick round ones and substituted this linguine. The tail meat was easier to eat and I enjoyed its lobster flavor, but the shell had one up on it for being finger licking good. The new noodles were good, and if we had had them first would have been great, but they just weren’t as chewy and amazing as the larger noodles.
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Our special order Tomohawk came at first “well done” but again they graciously took it back and swapped for…
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Tomahawk, rare. Now this was an amazing steak and really delicious with its warm deep pink/purple center. I particularly enjoyed with the sauces.
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Black Pepper Cognac au Poivre sauce. Roasted Garlic Red Wine Reduction sauce. And special Chifa Cucho Sauce. My favorite was the black pepper.
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Braised Curry Lamb Shank. tender braised lamb shank in fragrant tomato curry with cauliflower puree. Great that this was on a cauliflower puree (low carb) and the meat was super tender and drowned in delicious sauce.
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Trinity Fried Rice. garlic, ginger, scallion trinity fried rice with egg, shirmp and fish roe. Nice large shrimp.
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Celery & Red Chidori Kale (V). simple wok tossed celery and kale with fresh garlic. This was a surprise stand out for me. I very much enjoyed the crisp crunch of the celery.
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Dessert menu, but we had better:
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Cremino al Siciliana Gelato — The base made with Galbani Whole Milk Ricotta and Sicilian Acacia Honey laced with house-made Bronte Pistacchio DOCG “Fudge” — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #ricotta #honey #pistachio #pistacchio #fudge

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Overall, this was an amazing meal. It’s sort of an interesting fusion, as it’s essentially Chifa — both the restaurant and the cuisine. Specifically this is a Hong Kong Peruvian hybrid fusion. It’s good and the decor and service are fabulous. But it’s also more expensive than almost all SGV Chinese. And I’m not sure it’s exactly better, just different. I actually like my Chinese very Chinese. I don’t even love Hong Kong “style” Chinese as much as most mainland restaurants because of the European (aka British) influence.

My favorite dishes here at Monarch were many of the ones that were at Chifa as well, like the lobster and steak. I do have to say, however, that the black pepper lobster is INSANELY GOOD. Best Chinese style lobster I’ve had. It’s also pretty expensive, but worth it. And the version we had was off menu, as the on menu one is lobster tail (which is also really good and we also had).

My recommendation would be that anyone very into SGV Chinese, or Chinese food in general, try out Monarch and see what they think themselves. I imagine many people will love it. I’ll certainly be back.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Ambrosia Salad Madness
  2. Hunan Chili Madness
  3. Chifa Rulez
  4. Arcadian Pastures
  5. Marche Modern Madness
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Black pepper, BYOG, Chifa, Chinese cuisine, Gelato, Lobster, Monarch, Wine

Champagne Sauvages

Aug10

Restaurant: 71Above [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13]

Location: 633 W 5th St., Los Angeles, CA 90071

Date: January 13, 2023

Cuisine: New American

Rating: Awesome in all ways

_

71Above is one of my favorite LA restaurants and I’ve been many times. In fact there are 10 previous write ups! Original Chef Vartan Abgaryan has moved on to his own new place, Yours Truly (which the pandemic has sadly done in), and 71Above is now seamlessly helmed by his disciple, Chef Javier Lopez. Today the location plays host to a special Sauvages lunch — the “infamous” January Champagne Lunch.

Besides being located on the 71st floor (950 feet up!) of the US Bank building, being the highest restaurant west of the Mississippi, it’s owned and operated by my friend Emil Eyvazoff!

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On one of these visits, Emil gave me a quick tour of their new “patio” on the 70th floor below where they are serving up Mezzes and drinks.

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Gorgeous build out upstairs for the main event.
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Look at the crazy view and the crazy fog on this weird spring night.1A4A2433-Pano
The pre-lunch crowd.
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2018 Dönnhoff Roxheimer Höllenpfad Riesling im Mühlenberg Großes Gewächs. VM 92. This bottling from the stand of very old vines in Höllenpfad is full of juicy white peach fruit that I hadn’t expected from this site – but after all, we are talking about fruit-dominated vintage 2018. That’s not to say that certain elements conducive to austerity are absent: peach kernel piquancy, ash, crushed stone. On top of which, there is only one lone gram of residual sugar. The feel is full and firm, the minerally concentrated finish persistently pithy but juicy, and there is a welcome, saliva-inducing hint of salinity. “This is my new favorite child,” quipped Dönnhoff, “but it still has to finish school,” meaning not that these old vines need to be taught anything, but rather that he and Cornelius are still learning how to best channel this site’s and those vines’ potential. (For extensive background on this bottling and its site designation, consult my review of the inaugural vintage 2017 installment.) (Drink between 2020-2027)
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2019 Domaine de Chantemerle Chablis La Chantemerle.
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2014 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre. BH 93. A spicy nose grudgingly liberates notes of citrus, floral, wet stone, oyster shell and iodine. There is a fine blend of power and finesse with outstanding punch, complexity and balance on the beautifully lingering and markedly dry finish. A classic Montée de Tonnerre of refinement and grace. (Drink starting 2022)
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From my cellar: 2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Cuvée Nicholas et Mathis. 92 points.
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Crispy Chicken Bites. Mustard Emulsion, Dill. Crispy with just a touch of heat.
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Caviar. Brioche, Dashi Gelee, Chives.
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Truffle eggs.
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Our private room.
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Chilling out.
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Today’s special menu.
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1995 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires. VM 95. The 1995 Brut Blanc des Millenaires shows just how compelling this often overlooked vintage can be. Layers of lemon, pastry spices, crushed rocks and savory herbs literally jump from the glass in this exquisite, perfumed, beautifully delineated Champagne. The 1995 shows lovely flavor complexity and nuance from its extended time in bottle, yet it also retains plenty of freshness, verve and acidity. This is a great showing from Charles Heidsieck. The 1995 was made before the tenure of the house’s current team, headed by CEO Cécile Bonnefond. It will be very interesting to see what develops at this historic property over the coming years. (Drink between 2013-2022)
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1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. BH 97. A distinctly reticent but elegant nose with a purity of expression that is truly impressive to experience as it’s relatively high-toned and while the yeast comes up with air, it’s relatively muted at presence, combining with intense, precise and superbly detailed and complex flavors that culminate in an explosive and wonderfully long finish. This may very well rival the sublime ’90 in time even if it’s not quite as concentrated. This is still a baby so there is absolutely no rush whatsoever.
1A4A2506
1998 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil. VM 97+. The 1998 Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil has developed beautifully since I last tasted it. What a wine. For the first few years of its life, the 1998 seemed to lack personality, then, suddenly, seemingly out of nowhere, it blossomed. Today, the 1998 is rich, powerful and explosive, none of which was a few years ago. Layers of textured fruit, pastry, spices and crushed rocks jump from the glass. Still an infant, the 1998 promises to drink well for two to three decades. This is without question the best bottle of the 1998 I have ever tasted. Time to do another complete vertical? (Drink between 2013-2038)
1A4A2507
1990 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon. BH 95. This is a wine that I know extremely well from 750 ml and it’s one that is beginning to tire though I hasten to point out that it’s still enjoyable and just beginning to show signs of fatigue. However there are no such concerns with the same wine from magnum that remains magnificently fresh and while it’s clear that the aromas are mature, that’s not at all the same thing as describing the yeasty and baked apple suffused nose as tiring. There is equally good depth and vibrancy to the beautifully delineated flavors that are supported by a fine and firm mousse that allows the texture of a well-aged Dom to be easily appreciated. For my taste this has arrived at its peak though note well that it should easily be capable of effortlessly holding for years to come. (Drink starting 2015)
1A4A2474
Hiramasa Crudo. Passion Fruit, Mandarin, Avocado, Jicama, Furikake, Cilantro, Habanero. Super fabulous crudo with a really zining sweet, spicy, savory, tangy marinate. 71 Above often has these really interesting complex flavors.
1A4A2508
2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne. VM 98. I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had never tasted anything like it. Two thousand-two was a year marked by extreme ripeness in the Chardonnays, and that opulence has always been a big part of the wine’s profile. Today, what strikes me most about the 2002 is its timelessness. That youthful opulence remains, yet the 2002 is still vibrant, almost shocking in its freshness. Apricot, ripe peach, tangerine oil, butter and dried flowers all build towards a captivating crescendo of aromas and flavors that saturates the finish. Readers can look forward to another two decades of exceptional drinking. (Drink between 2022-2042)
1A4A2509
2002 Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Rare. JG 94. It is funny how often I drink the 2002 Rare from Piper-Heidsieck, given that I cannot get a sample out of this Grande Marque of the 2008 Rare or any other recent releases these days. In any case, the radio silence has not soured me on the beauty of the 2002 Rare, which remains one of the finest wines I have had the pleasure to taste from Piper. The bouquet is complex, deep and refined, offering up scents of apple, lemon, fresh-baked bread, chalky minerality and a nice touch of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a fine core, lovely balance and grip, elegant mousse and a long, focused and still vibrant finish. At age twenty this wine is cruising along beautifully at its plateau of peak maturity and still has plenty of life ahead of it. (Drink between 2022-2045)
1A4A2510
2012 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill. VM 96. Pol Roger”s flagship Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is fabulous in 2012. Rich, open-knit and seductive, the 2012 will drink well right out of the gate, although it certainly has the pedigree to age well for decades. Lemon confit, chamomile, dried flowers, mint, spice and a kick of brioche infuse the 2012 with notable textural richness and resonance. Time in the glass brings out gorgeous aromatic lift to round things out. The 2012 is classy and polished all the way. (Drink between 2022-2037)
1A4A2477
Crispy Octopus. Smoked Paprika, Morita Chili, Fingerling Potatoes, Celery, Lemon. Very nice crispy octopus.
1A4A2512
2007 Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Rare. 93 points.
1A4A2513
2004 Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Annonciade. 92 points.
1A4A2514
2003 Dom Pérignon Champagne. VM 95. The 2003 Dom Pérignon is in a gorgeous place right now. To be sure, it is a powerful Champagne that reflects the personality of a year marked by frost, that took out 70% of the Chardonnay, and then record heat and drought over the summer. The 2003 is just starting to head into its first plateau of maturity. Brioche, baked apple tart, lemon confit and marzipan build into the rich, layered finish. (Originally published in May 2021) (Drink between 2021-2038)
1A4A2511
2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs. VM 98. We started with the 2006 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, which is every bit as racy and seductive as it has always been. It’s a great, great vintage for Comtes. (Drink between 2022-2046)
1A4A2484
Lettuces, Market Vegetables, Labne, Cumin, Cilantro, Parmigiano-Reggiano. Very nice interesting cumin notes. Good texture.
1A4A2491
Risotto Milanese. Saffron, Crispy Bone Marrow, Parmigiano-Reggiano. Perfect risotto, if very rich. I only had a bite as I was saving my blood sugar.
1A4A2515
NV Jacques Selosse V.O. Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut. VM 95. The NV Extra-Brut V.O. (Version Originale) (2015) is super-expressive right out of the gate. It marries richness with translucence in stunning style. Dried flowers, mint, pine, spice, baked apple tart and brioche add gorgeous aromatic presence. In this release, the V.O. is so compelling. As always, V.O. is a blend of parcels on the upper slopes of Avize, from vintages 2015, 2014 and 2013 in this release. Disgorged: April 5, 2021. (Drink between 2023-2033)
1A4A2516
2008 Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Rare. 93 points.
1A4A2517
2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne. VM 98. The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and structure. Today, the richness of the fruit is especially evident. Readers who own the 2008 should be thrilled, but patience is a must. (Originally published in May 2021) (Drink between 2028-2058)
1A4A2518
2008 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut La Grande Dame. 92 points.
1A4A2494
Murray Cod. Little Neck Clams, Celadonian Prawn, Celery Root Chowder, Fennel. Very nice seafood flavors. The Cod was perfectly moist and flakey. Excellent seafood dish.
1A4A2519
1A4A2520
Sweet champ!
1A4A2523
Mignardise. Choux au Craquelin, Pate de Fruits, Madeleines. My diet only allowed me a nibble of each, but the pastry cream Choux seemed awesome.
1A4A2530
Pure and Concentrated Evil — Kentucky Mud Pie Gelato — Expresso Knob Creek Bourbon Custard Gelato base with layers of house-made Crushed Oreo Valrhona Fudge Ganache, and house-made Vanilla Coconut Cream Cheese Icing — The Plaid Mode of Gelati and includes a hefty Caffeine kick — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #coconut #valrhona #chocolate #ganache #expresso #bourbon #custard #oreos #icing

Orange Old Fashioned Sorbetto — Cold Pressed Orange Juice, Knob Creek Bourbon and Angostura Bitters! Topped with cherries — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Really tastes like an Old Fashioned –#SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #orange #tangerine #bourbon #KnobCreek #bitters #Angostura
1A4A2502
The gang.
1A4A2534
The chefs and to the right, our awesome Somm, Katherine.

Heading down!

Overall, 71Above is just a seriously well conceived and executed one-of-a-kind restaurant. Really, it’s more like a NY, Singapore, or Tokyo kind of concept. First of all, the view is just awesome. I can’t wait to come back on a really clear day. Particularly once they begin brunch service, a nice winter day will offer an observation deck like panorama.

But then Emil and crew built out such a lovely space to capture the drama. It’s modern, but welcoming. Not too loud, you can hear the conversation and the music both. And from when you enter off the double elevator ascent it folds from one experience to another: lounge, dining room, more intimate corridors, chef table, quiet and romantic view areas in the back, and a series of two adjustable private dining rooms. The attention to architectural detail is amazing.

Today’s lunch excelled on all counts. Service, food, company, and of course the wines. Years ago I used to complain about too much Champagne… no longer!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Drago Centro Champagne
  2. Sauvages Chinois
  3. Upstairs with Sauvages
  4. Sauvages Bordeaux
  5. Sauvages Tesse
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: 71above, BYOG, Champagne, Emil Eyvazoff, Gelato, lunch, Sauvages, Wine
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