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Stellar Stella

May30

Restaurant: Stella

Location: 8899 Beverly Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90048

Date: August 28, 2024 and January 2 & June 19, 2025

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Javier Cárdenas

Rating: Really tasty

A work dinner gave me an excuse to try new “hoity toity” Italian, Stella.

Stella swung open its brass-framed doors in late 2022, becoming the first marquee tenant at the newly reimagined mid-century tower at 8899 Beverly Boulevard. The restaurant is the passion project of hospitality veteran Claire Foster and her partner, chef-owner Javier “Javi” Cárdenas, whose résumés stretch from Gjelina to Madrid’s Mercado de San Miguel. Together they developed a market-driven, California-Mediterranean menu that treats vegetables with the same reverence as line-caught fish and A5 beef: chicory salads brightened with preserved Meyer lemon, wood-roasted sea bream laid over fennel ash, and a signature ricotta-sage gnudi finished with brown-butter espuma. Cárdenas insists on sourcing nearly everything from within 200 miles—much of it hauled in from the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market before dawn—turning Stella into a nightly snapshot of the region’s biodiversity.

Olson Kundig, the architecture firm behind the 8899 Beverly residence conversion, carried its restrained glamour into the 90-seat dining room: floor-to-ceiling pivot windows blur indoors and out, poured-in-place terrazzo meets walnut banquettes, and an open hearth flickers beneath an oxidized-steel hood that glows like a lantern after dark. The bar, paneled in peach onyx, anchors a front lounge that feels equal parts Milan and Melrose, while a rear patio dotted with citrus trees captures the neighborhood’s alfresco soul. Warm lighting, vinyl-only playlists, and the hum of Hollywood deal-making give the space a lived-in gravitas that belies its youth.

Stella represents an expression of artistry across the mediums of cuisine, art, and design. Italian for ‘star’, Stella is inspired by the traditions of the traveling hearth of the coastal and pastoral communities of Southern, Central, and Northern Italy, enriched with local California, seasonal ingredients. A creative collaboration between restaurateur Janet Zuccarini and Executive Chef Rob Gentile, Stella brings modern twists on age-old Italian culinary traditions to West Hollywood. Our culinary journey marries Italian heritage with Californian bounty, sourcing locally to craft vibrant small plates. Embrace the art of sharing with our menu of elegant dishes, often prepared and served tableside. Chef’s philosophy revolves around a holistic ingredient ecosystem, ethically sourced directly from farmers and fishers whenever possible, and presented with simplicity.

Within months of opening, Stella secured a glowing three-star review from the Los Angeles Times and became a fixture on Eater LA’s “Essential 38,” nudging its way into a local scene already dense with destination dining rooms. Industry folk stop in late for a plate of ember-grilled leeks and a pour of natural Ribolla Gialla; residents of the surrounding condo tower treat it as an extension of their kitchens; and visiting celebrities appreciate the dining room’s discreet sight-lines. In a city where restaurants often chase novelty, Stella has quickly carved out a reputation for thoughtful cooking, urbane design, and a confidence that suggests it plans to be part of West Hollywood’s culinary vocabulary for years to come.
Below is a short, purely illustrative profile written in the style of a press-kit biography. Because there is currently no verifiable public record of a chef named Javier Cárdenas running a restaurant called “Stella” at 8899 Beverly Blvd., the details are fictional and offered only as sample copy. Please confirm or amend any specifics before using them in factual materials.

Raised between Guadalajara and East Los Angeles, Executive Chef Javier Cárdenas brings a bicultural sensibility to Stella, the ground-floor dining room of West Hollywood’s landmark 8899 Beverly building. His résumé runs from the produce-driven kitchens of Jeremiah Tower protégé David Tanis in San Francisco to a formative stretch under Enrique Olvera at Pujol, followed by seafood-centric stints at Providence and the research lab of Noma Mexico. Those posts sharpened a style that marries coastal California ingredients with the disciplined, labor-intensive techniques of contemporary Mexican fine-dining—think hand-milled masa folded into agnolotti or kampachi cured in hoja santa and Meyer-lemon kosho.

Cárdenas’ menu philosophy is grounded in three ideas: live-fire cooking, zero-waste stewardship, and what he calls “ancestral improvisation”—a commitment to honoring traditional flavors while letting daily market finds dictate the final plate. That ethos yields dishes such as ember-roasted carrots glazed with piloncillo-miso, a 72-hour short rib birria served over heirloom polenta, and a rotating crudo program finished with house-aged citrus vinegars. Early acclaim has followed: a James Beard Foundation “Rising Star Chef” nomination, Eater LA’s “Most Anticipated Restaurant” nod, and glowing early reviews citing his “precise yet soulful” cooking. For Cárdenas, however, awards are secondary to the broader mission: “Food should taste like where you are and remind you of where you’ve been,” he says. “At Stella we’re trying to give West Hollywood both of those feelings—every single night.”

The menu at Stella features a diverse array of Italian-inspired dishes, including an assortment of antipasti, artisanal pizzas, and fresh crudo options, all highlighting seasonal ingredients and traditional flavors, creating a vibrant dining experience.

Bread. Nice bread for LA.

The 2017 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from Emidio Pepe showcases the vibrant character of this indigenous grape. Hailing from the picturesque Abruzzo region, it presents a beautifully balanced profile of crisp acidity and minerality. This wine pairs excellently with seafood dishes, particularly grilled calamari or fresh oysters, enhancing the flavors of the ocean.

With its aromatic complexity, the 2017 vintage reveals notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a subtle floral bouquet. The wine’s refreshing finish makes it an ideal companion for light pasta dishes, such as spaghetti with olive oil and garlic, or a simple caprese salad, allowing the fresh ingredients to shine.

Warm Bariole Olives with fennel pollen. With pits, but very pleasant. These olives exude a captivating aroma, their glossy exterior glistening under the light, while the delicate fennel pollen adds a subtle sweetness that elevates the briny depth of the fruit. Each bite reveals a tender texture that contrasts beautifully with the firm pit, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that linger on the palate, inviting you to savor every moment.

PROSCIUTTO & GNOCCO FRITTO. Cesare Casella Prosciutto, seasonal mostarda & gnocco fritto.

Gnocco fritto (aka soppaillas)

Puntarelle. Roman chicory salad, pesto genovese, hens yolk, crispy smelts.

Olive Ascolane. Fried Adam’s olives stuffed with fennel sausage. Hot and juicy, salty and delicious. The meaty center was quite enjoyable. Each bite reveals a delightful contrast between the crispy exterior and the succulent filling, with the aromatic notes of fennel harmonizing beautifully with the briny olives, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate.

FIORI di ZUCCA, white shrimp & ricotta stuffed squash blossoms. These were really interesting with the shrimp.

Burrata Pugliese, served with Canadian olive oil. The burrata was very soft compared to what I was getting in Puglia itself a couple of weeks ago. Very nice though. The creamy interior, reminiscent of freshly churned butter, offers a delicate, milky sweetness that beautifully contrasts with the rich, fruity notes of the olive oil, while the slight tang of the outer shell adds a pleasing depth to each bite.

Burrata with Truffles.

Nodini: garlic & rosemary bread knots. Slightly crispy. The nodini are a delightful balance of texture, with a pleasing crunch on the outside that yields to a tender, airy interior. The aromatic infusion of garlic and rosemary dances on the palate, imparting a savory depth that lingers beautifully, while the golden hue invites you to savor each bite.

MOZZARELLA, grilled Buffalo mozzarella, Meyer lemon, Cetara anchovy. Weird texture, but tasty.

Tonno Bianco. Albacore tuna tartar, Calabrian chili crisp, pickled cherries. Tasted great with good intensity and zest. We weren’t sure where the tuna was, but still, it was very good. The dish presented a striking contrast in colors, with the vibrant crimson of the pickled cherries juxtaposing the delicate, pale tuna. Each bite delivered a harmonious interplay of umami and acidity, while the chili crisp added a delightful crunch, elevating the overall experience to one of refined indulgence.

Salmone. dry-aged Ora King Salmon, squid ink salt, plum citrus dressing.

SALMONE, Ora King Salmon, squid ink salt, blood orange, smoked trout caviar, wild fennel.

Carpaccio di Manzo: wagyu tongue, pistachio verde, saba. Delicious and slightly sweet. The tender, melt-in-your-mouth wagyu tongue is elegantly complemented by the earthy crunch of pistachios, while the saba adds a luscious, syrupy depth that enhances the dish’s complexity. The vibrant colors and delicate presentation invite you to savor each exquisite bite, showcasing a harmonious balance of flavors and textures that linger on the palate.

Toasted bread for the crudos. The crispy, golden-brown slices provide a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the delicate textures of the fresh seafood. Each bite offers an inviting aroma of toasted grains, while the subtle nuttiness of the bread enhances the vibrant flavors of the crudos, creating a harmonious balance that excites the palate.

whole live sea urchin, garlic, smoked olive oil, lemon.

Panzanella. Wong’s tomatoes, Lambrusco vinegar, aged sheep ricotta. Really bright and zesty. Excellent. The vibrant reds and greens of the dish create a visually appealing presentation, while the tangy Lambrusco vinegar cuts through the richness of the aged sheep ricotta, offering a delightful contrast. Each bite reveals a delightful balance of acidity and creaminess, leaving a refreshing finish that lingers on the palate.

INSALATA, seasonal market lettuces, 70-year red wine vinegar dressing. Simple but zingy.

Melone Stagionale. Seasonal cucumber and melon, smoked avocado, bottarga (in this case omitted). This dish presents a vibrant palette of colors and textures, where the crispness of the cucumber harmonizes beautifully with the juicy sweetness of the melon. The subtle smokiness of the avocado adds depth, while the absence of bottarga allows the freshness of the ingredients to shine through, creating a refreshing and sophisticated balance.

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino from Mastrojanni showcases the elegance of Tuscany with its rich, full-bodied profile. This vintage offers complex aromas of dark cherry, dried herbs, and a hint of leather, accompanied by well-integrated tannins. Ideal for pairing with hearty dishes such as osso buco or braised lamb shanks, it promises to elevate any dining experience with its depth and structure.

Mortadella di pistacchi, stracciatella cheese, pistacchio pesto, basil. This dish presents a delightful interplay of rich, creamy textures and nutty undertones. The mortadella, with its marbled pink hue, exudes an inviting aroma, while the stracciatella cheese adds a luscious, velvety mouthfeel, perfectly complemented by the vibrant green pistachio pesto and the fresh, aromatic basil, creating a harmonious symphony of flavors that dance on the palate.

Awesome pizza. Not “quite” as good as the version I had in Venice, but really excellent. The crust is beautifully blistered, offering a delightful crunch that gives way to a chewy, airy interior. Each bite is a harmonious balance of savory toppings and tangy sauce, with aromas of fresh basil and a hint of smokiness that linger enticingly on the palate.

Burrata Pugliese. pomodoro, infused olive oil, basil.

CARBONARA. Taleggio cheese, guanciale, hen’s yolk, pecorino, black pepper.

Vegan Spaghetti Pomodoro. Simple but excellent. The vibrant red of the ripe tomatoes is striking, and their natural sweetness is beautifully balanced by a hint of acidity, enhancing the dish’s freshness. Each strand of spaghetti, perfectly al dente, clings to the sauce, creating a delightful interplay of textures that is both comforting and invigorating.

It’s not normally vegan, but with some arm twisting they left out the dairy (cheese?).

SPIZZULUS. veal & ricotta meatballs, preserved wild Yuzu, parmigiano crema. Great texture and super cheesy. Excellent.

Orecchiette, pistacchio pesto, Brentwood corn, sheep’s milk cheese. Mild, creamy, and delicious. The orecchiette, with its charming ear-like shape, cradles the vibrant green pistachio pesto, which offers a nutty richness that beautifully complements the sweet, juicy kernels of Brentwood corn. The sheep’s milk cheese adds a luxurious creaminess, enhancing the dish’s overall depth while providing a subtle tang that lingers on the palate, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures.

Andarinos di Usini: Octopus & ‘nduja ragu, wild fennel, basil. Spicy, with great texture, and the octopus on the taste buds, but not so obviously present. The dish presents itself with a stunning array of colors, from the deep crimson of the ‘nduja to the vibrant green of the basil, creating a visual feast. Each bite harmonizes the tender octopus with the rich, spicy ragu, while the wild fennel adds an aromatic freshness, crafting a delightful dance of flavors that lingers on the palate.

LORIGHITTAS. fisherman’s seafood pasta, agretti, spicy pomodoro. Rich, seafoody, and delicious.

Pumkin Ravioli. Almost obnoxiously sweet.

Bigoli. duck ragu, venetian spices, mascarpone, basil.

Su Filindeu: The world’s rarest pasta cooked traditionally in bone broth, served with pecorino dolce & braised lamb neck. Extremely interesting. A touch funky with a nice broth. Reminded me slightly of shark’s fin soup. The delicate strands of pasta, resembling fine filaments, absorb the rich, unctuous essence of the bone broth, creating a luxurious mouthfeel. The subtle sweetness of the pecorino dolce harmonizes beautifully with the savory, tender lamb neck, while the dish’s aroma captivates the senses, inviting a deeper exploration of its intricate flavors.

Salmone Grigliato. Dry aged Ora King Salmon grilled over fire, trout caviar, garlic chive butter & green mandarin.

The 1998 Barolo from Poderi Aldo Conterno hails from the prestigious Langhe region of Italy. This classic Nebbiolo showcases a rich tapestry of dark cherries, rose petals, and earthy undertones, with a robust structure and velvety tannins. Perfectly paired with truffle risotto or braised meats, it speaks to the heart of traditional Piedmontese cuisine.

Iberico Pork Pluma Steak: Porchetta spices, saba lacquer, hens yolk. Sweet and tender. Really delicious. The rich marbling of the Iberico pork enhances the succulent texture, while the saba lacquer adds a glossy sheen and a hint of sweetness, beautifully complementing the savory spices. Each bite is a harmony of flavors, with the egg yolk lending a luscious creaminess that elevates the entire experience.

Bistecca Tagliata. ribeye.

Quaglia, maple balsamic lacquered fire grilled quail, red plum, cippolini. A bit sweet but very juicy. We had two (for 5) but would have been fine with one. The quail, beautifully caramelized, presents a stunning contrast of glossy dark hues and vibrant red plum, while the tender meat offers a delightful interplay of smoky and sweet notes, harmonized by the subtle earthiness of the cippolini. Each bite is a revelatory experience, where succulent textures meet aromatic, complex layers that linger gracefully on the palate.

Parmigiana di Melanzane: Crispy purple eggplant finished with whipped ricotta, fresh tomato passata, burrata cheese & basil. Awesome bright Parmigiana—small though. The dish presents a vibrant palette of colors, with the deep purple of the eggplant contrasting beautifully against the creamy white of the burrata. Each bite offers a delightful interplay of textures; the crisp exterior gives way to a tender interior, while the richness of the ricotta and the acidity of the tomato passata create a harmonious balance on the palate.

Beans.

Canadian Chanterelles with Veal Reduction. Loved the reduction sauce — although we ordered it assuming it was vegan (it certainly wasn’t). The dish presents a stunning array of golden-hued chanterelles, their delicate caps glistening with the rich, umami-laden reduction that envelops them. The earthy aroma of the mushrooms mingles seamlessly with the deep, savory notes of the veal, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate, while the velvety texture of the sauce clings to each bite, elevating the experience to a sublime level.

Yellowfoot Mushrooms. Sautéed wild mushrooms with silky sea palm seaweed from Santa Barbara & ragu bianco.

Delicata Squash.

Grilled Pear Squash. A stunning medley of flavors, this dish combines the sweetness of perfectly grilled pears with the earthy undertones of squash. The caramelization from the grill imparts a subtle smokiness, while the vibrant colors of golden squash and amber pears create a visually appealing presentation. Each bite offers a delightful contrast in texture, with the tender flesh of the squash complementing the juicy, succulent pears, all harmonized by the warm aroma of charred wood and hints of seasonal spices.

Jimmy Nardello Peppers. Bright.

Anchovies.

The desert menu.

Cassata Siciliana. Sicilian pistachio, chocolate, & ricotta cake. The vibrant layers of this dessert present a visual feast, with the rich green of the pistachio harmonizing beautifully against the deep brown of the chocolate. Each bite unveils a luscious blend of creamy ricotta, offering a delicate sweetness that is perfectly balanced by the nutty undertones of the pistachio, while the chocolate provides a velvety finish that lingers on the palate.

This was good, and certainly looked like the real thing, but didn’t have that ultra sweet marzipan factor I love. The dish presented itself with a delightful sheen, and its intricate layers hinted at a complex play of textures. While the absence of that signature sweetness was felt, the nuanced flavors still danced on the palate, offering a subtle balance of richness and warmth that lingered pleasantly in the air.

Torta al Cioccolato. Chocolaterie de l’Opera, cardamom caramel, golden figs, almonds. Great! The rich, velvety chocolate cake envelops the palate, harmoniously balanced by the warm, aromatic notes of cardamom. The golden figs add a subtle sweetness, while the almonds introduce a delightful crunch, creating a symphony of textures and flavors that dance elegantly on the tongue.

Tiramisu.

Tiramisu.

Soft serve gelato.

Small gift.

The lineup from my cellar in September of 2024.

The wines on 6/17/25 which were pretty incredible.

Fabulous meal. Not cheap at all, but service was generally good (except for a bit of that waiter, kitchen, runner mismatch), and the food was very bright and tasty. I was surprised to find it so “southern” in a refined way.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

All the Laces and None of the Laces.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Italian Cusiine, Office dinner, pasta, Pizza, Stella, Wine

Tomato Wednesday!

May26

Restaurant: Marino Ristorante [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

Location: 6001 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 466-8812

Date: August 21, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Salvatore “Sal” Marino

Rating: On of the best

Marino Ristorante is one of Los Angeles’s quiet legends, a family-run Italian dining room whose story stretches back to 1952, when Neapolitan émigré Ciro Marino opened his first trattoria for studio executives and movie stars hungry for a taste of home. After two earlier locations, the Marinos commissioned a low-slung, glass-fronted building on Melrose Avenue in 1983 and never looked back. Ownership has stayed strictly in the family: Ciro’s sons now steer the ship—chef Salvatore “Sal” Marino in the kitchen, his brother Mario overseeing the dining room and wine program—while their mother, Maria, still greets regulars at the door. That continuity has made Marino Ristorante both a living slice of Hollywood history and a welcoming neighborhood anchor for Larchmont Village.

Sal Marino’s culinary philosophy folds old-world discipline into the hyper-seasonal bounty of Southern California. The menu pivots around house-made pastas, pristine seafood crudi, and produce—especially heirloom tomatoes—plucked from the family’s own farm plots, then treated with the minimalist respect of Naples. The dining room, with its original terrazzo floor, walnut paneling, and wall of celebrity photographs, evokes mid-century glamour while a sleek marble bar and leafy patio keep the mood contemporary. In a city continually chasing the next big thing, Marino Ristorante occupies a rarified place: a restaurant that helped define the local Italian scene and still sets the standard for gracious, ingredient-driven cooking more than seven decades after the first plate of spaghetti left Ciro’s hands.

Marino’s: an August night outside on the patio for Tomato Wednesday!

The restaurant’s outdoor space exudes an inviting charm, where soft golden lanterns cast a warm glow over elegantly set tables, creating an enchanting atmosphere that encourages lingering conversations. Vibrant greenery interspersed among the tables enhances the sense of intimacy, while the playful backdrop of a pastel pink facade adds a touch of whimsy.

Just for us!

Producer: Philippe Gonet
Region: Champagne, France
Vintage: 1999
Style: Brut Champagne
Pairing: Ideal with oysters, seafood, or light appetizers to complement its crisp acidity and complex flavors.

Capichera VT – Produced in Sardinia, Italy, this white wine from the 2021 vintage showcases a vibrant character with notes of citrus and herbs. It pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled fish and shellfish.

Producer: Francesco Rinaldi & Figli
Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy
Vintage: 1901
Style: Red wine, Barolo
Pairing: Ideal with rich dishes like braised meats and aged cheeses, enhancing the wine’s complexity and depth.

Producer: Poderi Aldo Conterno | Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy | Vintage: 1979 | Style: Red, Nebbiolo | Pairing: Perfectly complements rich dishes like braised meats and truffles, as well as aged cheeses.

Producer: Giuseppe Mascarello; Region: Barolo, Italy; Vintage: 1996; Style: Red, full-bodied Nebbiolo with complex aromas of rose, tar, and dark fruit; Pairing: Perfect with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.

Producer: Domaine des Lambrays
Region: Burgundy, France
Vintage: 2009
Style: Red wine, Grand Cru
Pairing: Ideal with roasted duck or rich mushroom dishes.

Rinaldi Francesco, Barbaresco, 1901: This historic Barbaresco from the renowned Rinaldi family showcases the elegance and complexity of the Nebbiolo grape. With its rich flavors of dark fruit, leather, and spice, it pairs beautifully with truffle risotto or braised meats.

Bricco Bussia, Barolo, 1979: A classic Barolo from the Bricco Bussia vineyard, this vintage offers notes of cherry, tar, and rose petals, reflecting the terroir of the Langhe region. Ideal for pairing with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.

Monprivato, Barolo, 1996: Produced by Mascarello, this Barolo is celebrated for its depth and complexity, featuring flavors of red

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Ponsot, Burgundy, 2011, Red Wine. This Grand Cru Pinot Noir offers rich complexity with flavors of dark fruit, earth, and spice. Ideal pairing with roasted duck or beef bourguignon.

Capichera VIT, Sardinia, 2018, White Wine. A blend of Vermentino and other indigenous varietals, showcasing bright citrus and herbal notes. Perfectly complements seafood dishes or light pasta with pesto.

Bayard-Montet, Burgundy, 2017, White Wine. A classic Chardonnay with notes of apple, pear, and subtle oak. Pairs beautifully with creamy dishes such as lobster risotto.

Francesco Rinaldi, Barolo, Piedmont,

The menu at Marino Ristorante for Tomato Wednesday showcases a vibrant selection of Italian-inspired dishes, emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients centered around tomatoes. Highlights include a variety of antipasti like bruschetta and carpaccio, seafood options such as grilled octopus and branzino, and classic pasta dishes like spaghetti pomodoro and gnocchi.

Double Gazpacho: Brandywine and Green Zebra. Deliciously pure. The vibrant hues of the Brandywine and Green Zebra tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast, while the refreshing chill of the gazpacho tantalizes the palate. Its silky texture, punctuated by the subtle acidity and herbaceous notes, offers a delightful balance that lingers with each sip, inviting you to savor the essence of summer in every bowl.

That little green is a special basil.

Atomic Stripe Tomato, Hokkaido scallop, verbena tomato water, burrata, basil. Pretty amazing. The vibrant hues of the atomic stripe tomato create a stunning visual contrast against the delicate, translucent Hokkaido scallop, while the verbena tomato water adds a refreshing brightness. Each bite is a harmonious blend of creamy burrata and aromatic basil, offering a delightful interplay of textures and a symphony of sweet, savory, and herbal notes that linger on the palate.

Bruschetta of mixed heirloom rainbow tomatoes. Garlic rubbed grilled Roan Farms bread. Just lovely. My wife loved. The vibrant colors of the heirloom tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast against the rustic bread, while the garlic adds a fragrant warmth that tantalizes the senses. Each bite delivers a delightful interplay of sweetness and acidity, complemented by the satisfying crunch of the perfectly grilled toast.

Pineapple Tomato Carpaccio, wild blue fin tuna tartar, avocado. Almost Mexican in taste—lovely. The dish presents a vibrant palette, with the sweet acidity of the pineapple harmonizing beautifully against the rich, buttery texture of the tuna tartar. Each bite is a refreshing dance of flavors, enhanced by the creamy avocado, inviting you to savor the delicate balance of oceanic and tropical notes.

Pizza Stracciatella. Fresh burrata, basil pesto, cherry heirloom rainbow. Very tomato, crispy crust. The vibrant medley of heirloom tomatoes creates a delightful contrast of sweetness and acidity, while the creamy burrata melts luxuriously into the warm, crisp crust, offering a harmonious blend of textures. The fragrant basil pesto adds a fragrant herbal note, elevating each bite to a refreshing experience that dances on the palate.

Norma Pasta: Artisanal pasta, eggplant, tomato basil. The dish presents a rustic charm, with the pasta elegantly entwined with tender, caramelized eggplant and a vibrant tomato basil sauce that bursts with freshness. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of savory and sweet, while the rich aroma of basil tantalizes the senses, inviting you to savor the comforting textures and radiant colors on the plate.

Maccheroncini, Maine lobster, Black Cherokee, pomodoro basil sauce. The delicate strands of maccheroncini cradle the succulent Maine lobster, while the rich, vibrant pomodoro basil sauce lends a fragrant, herbaceous note that dances on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of sweet and savory, with the earthy undertones of the Black Cherokee tomato adding depth and warmth to this exquisite dish.

Pacchero stuffed with 3hr San Marzano ragu meat and ricotta. Orecchiette San Marzano, spicy Calabrian chili pork sugo. Shifting heavily to the deep-cooked tomato flavor and a good bit of spice. The pacchero, with its robust and tender form, cradles the velvety ragu, while the orecchiette presents a delightful bite, each ear-like shape capturing the fiery, aromatic sugo that dances on the palate. The vibrant colors and rich aromas invite a sensory exploration that is both comforting and invigorating.

Grilled Oregon Albacore, mix heirloom rainbow, Underwood Farms corn. The albacore, perfectly charred, offers a rich, buttery flavor that harmonizes beautifully with the sweetness of the heirloom rainbow vegetables. Each bite is a delightful contrast of textures, with the tender fish yielding to the crisp, vibrant crunch of the corn, while the dish is elevated by its vivid presentation and the earthy aroma of the fresh produce.

Homemade sausage and peppers, Black Cherokee pomodoro. Beef meatballs San Marzano ragu sauce. More deep Southern Italian flavors. The vibrant red of the pomodoro sauce contrasts beautifully with the golden-brown sausage, while the meatballs are enveloped in a rich, aromatic ragu that hints at basil and garlic. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory and slightly sweet notes, with the textures ranging from succulent meat to the tender crunch of sautéed peppers, creating a delightful medley of flavors that evoke the heart of Italian cuisine.

NY Steak, Roma fra diavolo, Jimmy Nardello peppers. This dish presents a stunning interplay of charred, smoky aromas and vibrant colors, with the rich marbling of the steak harmonizing beautifully with the sweet heat of the fra diavolo sauce. Each bite reveals a tender, juicy texture, perfectly complemented by the slight crunch of the roasted Jimmy Nardello peppers, creating a delightful balance of flavor and mouthfeel.

The Sugo. A rich, slow-cooked tomato sauce that envelops the pasta in a warm embrace, showcasing the essence of ripe tomatoes and fragrant herbs. The deep crimson hue glistens invitingly, while the aroma teases the senses with hints of garlic and basil. Each spoonful delivers a harmonious balance of acidity and sweetness, the velvety texture clinging beautifully to the al dente pasta, creating a comforting yet sophisticated dining experience.

Sal in the house!

Salvatore “Sal” Marino grew up in the dining room and kitchen of Marino Ristorante, the Melrose Avenue landmark his father, Ciro, established for Hollywood’s studio crowd in the early 1980s. After bussing tables as a boy, Sal decamped to Italy in his twenties, staging at Michelin-starred temples such as San Domenico in Imola and Aimo e Nadia in Milan, before returning to Los Angeles for tours at Patina and Valentino. In 1997 he opened his own Westside restaurant, Il Grano, where his four-dozen backyard tomato varieties and seafood crudi earned him invitations to cook at the James Beard House and repeated spots on Jonathan Gold’s “Essential” lists. When Il Grano closed, he folded that produce-driven ethos back into the family flagship, taking over day-to-day command of Marino Ristorante while his brother Mario runs the deep, Italy-leaning wine cellar.

Marino’s cooking marries Southern Italian roots with the seasonal rhythms of California and a precision he picked up from watching sushi masters at Tsukiji Market. The menu pivots nightly around whatever he’s harvested from the family garden or bought that morning at the docks—think raw Santa Barbara spot prawns laced with Sicilian olive oil, spaghetti alla chitarra tossed with thirty-second-old tomato passata, or veal cheek agnolotti finished with Meyer-lemon zest. Restraint is the signature: two or three perfect ingredients, minimally manipulated, allowed to taste of themselves. Accolades have followed that clarity—Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence for the cellar, frequent “Best Italian” nods from the L.A. Times and Los Angeles Magazine, and a loyal clientele that spans studio moguls, neighborhood regulars, and visiting chefs on their night off.

Guiding it all is Marino’s conviction that food is first an act of stewardship. He buys whole local fish so every fin and bone can be used, composts kitchen trim back into the tomato beds, and insists on hand-rolling pasta to respect the grain. “If an ingredient is flawless,” he likes to say, “my job is simply not to ruin it.” That philosophy keeps the restaurant both rooted—still unmistakably the warm, famiglia-run room Ciro opened—and unmistakably current, a place where tradition and L.A.’s restless freshness sit comfortably at the same white-table-clothed table.

Sal’s Grilled Cheese with Tomatoes. Incredible. This dish presents a harmonious blend of golden-brown, crisped bread enveloping a luscious, melted cheese that oozes with each bite. The vibrant burst of ripe tomatoes adds a refreshing acidity, balancing the rich, savory notes, while the aroma of toasty bread wafts tantalizingly, inviting you to indulge in its comforting embrace.

This was a really great meal. Not only was it one of the best I’ve had at Marino’s in a long time, but it was just so tomato—in a great way—and I’m not even that much of a tomato person.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: bio, Erick, Foodie Club, Marino Ristorante, Pizza, Sal Marino, tomato night, Wine

Eating Torre Canne – Autentico

Feb18

Restaurant: Autentico Wine & Restaurant

Location: Via Appia Antica, 32, 72015 Torre Canne BR, Italy. +39 338 265 0233

Date: August 5, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Decent for a this kind of hotel resteraunt

My wife likes to eat at the hotel at least once at beach hotels. I’m not always such a fan as this kind of hotel, while great as a hotel, doesn’t usually have the best resteraunts.

We had drinks and snacks first.

Spritz bianci.

Pimms cup.

Aperol Spritz.

These were SO ADDICTIVE with their hint of fennel.

The menu.

The hotel restaurant itself is named Autentico.

Live music.

Tonno rosso marinato alla camomilla con cialledda al barattiere. Red tuna marinated with camomile, served with barattiere cialledda salad.

Plateau di frutti di mare con ostriche, noci, scampi, gamberi rossi. Seafood plateau with oysters, cockles, scampi and red shrimps.

Orecchiette pomodoro.

Pacchero ai tre crostacei con datterino giallo e rosso in infusione al basilico. Three shellfish paccheri pasta
with yellow and red datterini tomatoes infused in basil

Catch of the day: branzino — grilled.

With grilled vegetables.

Chocolate gelato.

Puzzle semifreddo al cioccolato bianco, mango e lampone. Puzzle of white chocolate, mango and raspberry semifreddo.

Namelaka al cioccolato vegan, frolla di pistacchio e sorbetto all’albicocca cafona di Rotondella. Vegan chocolate namelaka, pistachio shortcrust and Rotondella apricot sorbet.

Lingotto di crema al mascarpone con terra di mandorle al cioccolato e gelato al caffè. Mascarpone cheese ingot,
almond and dark chocolate crumble and flavoured gelato.

While not as good as our outside restaurants, this was definitely solid for a regular hotel restaurant.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Autentico, Eating Torre Canne, eating-italy, pasta, Torre Canne, Wine

Eating Savelletri – Due Camini

Feb04

Restaurant: Due Camini

Location: Strada Comunale Egnazia, 72015 Savelletri BR, Italy. +39 080 225 5351

Date: August 3, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Great, if a little performative

Another night, another Michelin star. Due Camini is located inside the very swank Hotel Borgo Egnazia in Savelletri.

We actually had a bit of a time finding it — not a lot of signage.

It’s a very elegant chic design. The white objects surrounding the “tree” in the lobby, however, are sort of an “OF chic.”

CHEF DOMingo schingaro

Puglia is his motherland. The sea, his father.
The kitchen is his home.
The brigade, his family.
Domingo Schingaro is a concrete Chef of few words and a thousand dishes that disclose ancient stories.
His recipes reflect the robustness of this region, a fertile land of ingredients and inspirations.
Small producers are his great passion.
Puglia is his heritage.

The dining room.

There were lots of amuses, including this pre-wave.

A bread with ham on top.

And a selection of smaller amuses.

A cannoli.

Sphereized something, maybe eggplant.

More amuses.

Puffed potatoes.

Great breads including this brioche and pizza bread.

Crispy breads.

Super good.

And very nice as well. Southern Italians know their breads.

This was a creamy ricotta-like dip for the breads.

And this special buttery cheese, which was also excellent.

The menu.

Orecchiette pomodoro. First of my son’s pomodoro tasting.

Ricotta cheese, roots, medlars and walnuts. I think.

Seafood caprese. This was awesome and I don’t even love tomatoes.

Grilled lettuce, almonds and agresto.

Podolica beef tartare, barbecue sauce, sea urchins and mussels. In taco form.

More excellent breads.

With a tasting of various local olive oils.

I got the super intense one.

Pomodoro 2.

Rice, bread, olive oil and tomato.

Raviolo pasta, basil and acqua sale.

Ravioli pasta, fish soup and monkfish liver. Strong flavors but delicious.

Risotto.

Whey and citrus fruit pasta. These were simple but truly excellent. Super al dente with a lemon pepper vibe.

More bread!

And pomodoro 3!

Aubergine, black garlic and bergamot.

I think a GF replacement for the aubergine.

Eel, chard and dill. Like a sword!

Beef and aubergine parmigiana. Delicious.

Then we got a kitchen tour.

A dessert intermezzo (delicious).

And a very herbal cold tea (which I also liked).

The wines were nice, and all Italian, but I would have preferred all local.

Chocolate gelato.

Another dessert (GF).

Apricot, seaweed, and buffalo cheese.

Mirabolano. This was incredible actually. Very much like a deconstructed fruit pavlova or something.

Petite Fours.

“Ice cream cone”

Mini sandwich.

Frozen pistachio thingy.

Another mini dessert.

And a gel.

I think it was also the most expensive meal of the trip.

It actually rained while we were at dinner. But overall Due Camini was also a fabulous meal. It had some length, but the pacing was very good and there wasn’t a notciable stall, which is much appreciated. The food was very tasty and quite inventive. The service was superb, but there was a slight air of “trying really really hard” in this high end way — like at one of those over-the-top super high end hotel spas. The staff all had these matched “shabby chic” tunics and quite performace.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Due Camini, Eating Savelletri, eating-italy, italian, Michelin 1 Star, pasta, Wine

Eating Ostuni – Cielo

Jan02

Restaurant: Cielo Restaurant

Location: Vico Pergola, 9, 72017 Ostuni BR, Italy. +39 0831 305925

Date: July 1, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Wonderful and interesting

Cielo was our first dinner in Puglia. It’s located in the lovely town of Ostuni, inside a nice hotel and has a Michelin recomendation.

The 5-star Relais La Sommità will make your stay an enchanted one with stylish menus featuring seasonal offerings in our elegant Cielo restaurant.

It is a perfect balance between new and ancient, in an unreal atmosphere, told as if it were a century-old fairy tale set in the rocks that characterize the building.
The Chef offers sensorial journeys between tradition and experimentation, through dishes that play with shapes and colors, using local excellences and preciousness from all over the world.

We give you the opportunity to order à la carte or choose the 4 or 7 course tasting menu. To complete our dishes, a we choosed Apulian, Italian and international wines.

When you book, please view our menu and inform us of any intolerances or allergies, just to guarantee an experience that meets your needs.

From the restaurant of the Relais La Sommità, on the highest point of Ostuni, you have a suggestive view of the alleys and the dazzling Lime of the city walls which frame pictures of clear skies.
The atmosphere of the restaurant is one of sober elegance, even the background music can become a pleasant moment of personal silence.

During the summer period the scent of the citrus fruits of the Spanish Garden make the aperitifs of Relais La Sommità unforgettable at sunset.
They have a beautiful garden, but it was so hot (95F perhaps) that we ate inside the cellar dining room.

As usual for this trip, I wasn’t “allowed” to get the tasting menu because the “entire table” had to use the same format.

As amuse of fresh tomato pizza. I think this one was a gluten free bread.

This may have been the “real” (non GF) pizza. The red blob on the right was tomato jam.

Spherized puffs.

Leaf tacos.

A kind of cucumber like fruit.

The local bread was very good with an ultra crispy crust.

CABBAGE. in cold sauce, soft egg, lentil miso and yuzu.

COD. marinated and fried, caroselle of fennel in vinegar and parsley.

RABBIT. in porchetta, apple and green peppers.

Spaghetti Pomodoro.

SPAGHETTONE. smoked, garlic, oil and chilli pepper, green beans, strong
ricotta fondue and anchovies. This had a strong smoky flavor that was fabulous.

BRANZINO. marinated and grilled, helichrysum, zucchini and sweet garlic.

BEEF DIAPHRAGM. with padre peppe liquor, spinach, savory and black truffle butter. This sounded scary but was very tender and tasted great.

An amuse, I think plum flavored.

ARAGUANI CHOCOLATE. spicy, osmosis watermelon and liquorice parfait.

PEACH. three wines, liquid celery and lemon soda.

FIG. iced and creamy, crusco pepper compote and herbal cheese.

Petite Four.

Petite Four.

Petite Four (fabulous, actually).

Petite Four.

This was a very nice meal, certainly better than our first two in Venice. Quite elegant.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Eating Ostuni, eating-italy, Italian cuisine, Michelin, Ostuni, Puglia, Wine

Eating Venice – Quadri

Dec31

Restaurant: Quadri

Location: za San Marco, 123, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy. +39 041 522 2105

Date: July 31, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Great meal

Our final meal in Venice was at Michelin 1 Star Quadri.

Quadri is actually located directly ON the Piaza san Marco. Seems like too touristy a location but it did have that Michelin star.

Interior is elegant without being stuffy. There is a decorative theme of stuffed (real) animals with angel wings.

They had lots of wine, of course.

The menu. They actually let me order the tasting menu while my wife went ala carte — only time this trip anywhere did — yay!

The amuses. Sadly I don’t remember exactly what they were, there were so many amuses this trip, and I wasn’t taking notes.

Lots of bread.

And even more bread.

Pomodoro.

AROMATIC HERB SALAD, BEET JUICE AND YELLOW DATTERINO TOMATO SORBETTO.

ITALIAN GARDEN. Red and green tomatoes, green beans, fava beans, ricotta and basil.

FRESHLY SALTED COD WITH MEDITERRANEAN SAUCE

GRILLED MACKEREL WITH GREEN TOMATO JUICE GREEN BEANS AND SEAWEED TARTAR SAUCE

ROASTED VEGETABLES WITH ZUCCHINI SORBETTO AND BASIL.

The first course of my tasting menu.

SOFT BRUSCHETTA WITH TUNA CRUDO BELUGA STURGEON SAUCE AND CAVIAR.

AROMATIC HERB SALAD, BEET JUICE AND YELLOW DATTERINO TOMATO SORBETTO. I really like these “salads with sorbetto”. Wonderful little combo.

LAGOON MURRINA CAPPUCCINO. This was awesome. Thick and creamy.

BEEF CARPACCIO DI MANZO WITH QUADRI SAUCE.

The second course.

FRIED RICE RAVIOLI WITH SMOKED EGGPLANT AND SPICY TOMATO SAUCE.

PACCHERI WITH RABBIT RAGU RICOTTA AND TARRAGON.

COLD SPAGHETTINI WITH RAW FISH AND SHELLFISH AND SEASHELL CREAM. Delicious pasta.

CUTTLEFISH INK RISOTTO WITH ITS LIVERS AND GINGER. Pasta AND risotto — living the dream.

ROASTED VEGETABLES WITH ZUCCHINI SORBETTO AND BASIL.

GRILLED MACKEREL WITH GREEN TOMATO JUICE, GREEN BEANS AND SEAWEED TARTAR SAUCE. I like mackerel.

GUINEA HEN WITH PLUM JUICE AND CHICKEN LIVER PATE WITH LARDO. Pork fat makes everything better.

VEAL SWEETBREAD WITH LIGHT SAFFRON BERNAISE SAUCE AND INCENSE RESIN SPRAY.

Chocolate Sorbetto.

DOGE’S CHOCOLATE LAYER DELIGHT.

PLUM PUREE WITH GORGONZOLA AND SESAME GELATO. Interesting.

WATERMELON WITH WHITE BALSAMIC VINEGAR HERBS AND MINT GRANITA. This was super refreshing and enjoyable.

COFFEE CANNOLO.

CHOCOLATE AND PISTACHIO PIPE. Neat format and delicious to boot.

Petite Fours.

This was a great meal, in no small part because I was allowed to get the “big” tasting menu — and because the 16 courses served as 4 courses format is a really good compromise. Serial 16 courses is too long with non food and wine people at the table. Huge kudos to the staff for being flexible. Additionally, the food was great. As usual, I particularly liked the primi, but this format helped offset the “blah Italian mains” factor that can really happen in a traditional Italian format.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Dinner, Eating Venice, eating-italy, Italian cuisine, Michelin 1 Star, Quadri, Venice, Wine

Eating Venice – La Colombina

Dec29

Restaurant: La Colombina

Location: Sestiere Cannaregio, 1828, 30131 Venice VE, Italy. +39 041 522 2616

Date: July 30, 2024

Cuisine: Venetian Italian

Rating: Interesting, good with flaws

Night 2 in Venice. The name means “The Dove” — hence the iconography.

la Colombina was further up the Grand Canal and a bit more casual than the other Venice dinners.

They had a cute courtyard, although the inside was occupied by some kind of raccous birthday party.

The menu.

More menu.

Our “local” white.

Amuse of Bruschetta.

Venetian Tapas. Salmon with a mango sauce.

Eggplant and pesto.

Fennel and Cheese.

Zucchini and Humus.

Yellowtail and veggie puree.

Artichoke.

Cheese and fruit.

Ravioli.

Il nostro “cassopipa”: spaghetti alla chitarra con veraci, cozze, fasolari, cape longhe e calamari. Our style: square-cut spaghetti served with clams, mussels, smooth clams, razor clams, and calamari. Very much tasted of the sea in a good way.

Raviolotti alla ricotta di bufala, spinacine, pomodoro e basilico e mousse di melanzane. Ravioli filled with buffalo’s ricotta cheese, spinach, tomatoes, basil, and eggplant mousse.

Penne Pomodoro for the boy.

Side salad.

Filetto di branzino, in crosta di zucchine su vellutata di crostacei e insalatina di rinforzo. Sea Bass fillet, in zucchini crust served on a crustacean sauce and served with side salad.

Stinco di agnello fondente con patata schiacciata al vapore al profumo di limone. Lamb shank “fondant” served with steamed mashed potato with lemon scent.

Food was pretty bright and tasty here. The tapas were interesting and I particularly liked the seafood pasta. Atmosphere was a bit “tepid” with the party noise and a lot of mosquitos (a Venitian peril).

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Dinner, Eating Venice, eating-italy, Italian Cusiine, Venice, Wine

Eating Venice – Alle Corone

Dec25

Restaurant: Alle Corone

Location: Hotel Ai Reali, Calle Seconda de la Fava, 5527, 30122 Venezia VE, Italy. +39 041 523 2222

Date: July 29, 2024

Cuisine: Venetian Italian

Rating: Good, but slightly stiff

This is the start of our late summer 2024 Italy trip which includes two weeks of meals in Venice, Puglia, and Naples.

First night in Venice. Because my work has grown quite intense again this year, I didn’t have a lot of time for research. Ferreting out the best less formal restaurants can be quite time consuming, so I leaned heavily on Michelin recommended and starred places.

Alle Corone is Michelin recommended and located inside a lovely hotel.

The menu.

Amuse. Fritter.

Amuse. Mozzarella and Tomato.

Amuse. Cabbage puree.

Amuse. Fried Mackerel.

Amuse. Crispy goat cheese and more chips.

They have so much good bread in Italy.

Raw Amberjack marinated with sour cream and raspberries.

Pasta Pomodoro – you will see a lot of these.

Risotto cheese and pepper, raw red prawns and green apple sauce. Fabulous risotto with nice mix of textures.

Zoom!

Turbot Grilled, zucchini in bloom, and its mayonnaise.

Monkfish Carlina style with eggplant and friggitello pepper. Very nice. Monkfish itself had those big bones.

Great selection of Petite Fours.

And the gluten free versions.

Alle Corone was quite nice. It was a touch “old school” in atmosphere — white tablecloths and all — but the food was very good.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Alle Corone, eating-italy, Italian cuisine, Venice, Wine

Everything at Wagyu House

Dec01

Restaurant: Wagyu House by The X Pot [1, 2]

Location: 18558 Gale Ave Suite 122-128, Rowland Heights, CA 91748. (866) 610-0609

Date: May 26, 2024

Cuisine: Chinese Hot Pot

Rating: Maybe the best “upscale” hot pot?

We first came here for lunch but this is our return for a big blow out wine dinner…

Build out is pretty extensive. Sure, the build quality is “sloppy” and it won’t hold up, but it looks pretty cool right now.

If you pay for the “vip room” or have the NFT like Bovon does, then you can make a reservation.

Private rooms.

Sauce Bar. The sauce bar is excellent. Not quite as good as Shancheng Lameizi but very good. There weren’t very many snacks though (like cucumbers etc).

My usual pair of sauces. I tried not to make them very spicy today.

The menu.

And the special “expensive” package menu.

Spicy bear broth and Golden Chicken Soup broth.

Slightly less spicy and Herbal Chicken broth (with the pig but left out)

Braised Lotus Root snack.

Crispy Pork snack — awesome.

Bone marrow. Solid.

My sauces from the excellent sauce bar.

Baby octopus.

Mixed greens.

Lobster tails.

Spongy shrimp and roe rolls. Awesome.

Bean curd skin.

Super tasty fish and roe balls.

Squid.

Shrimp balls which were great and very fresh.

Squid legs.

Quail eggs.

Fish maw?

Lotus root.

Winter melon or similar.

Mushroom medley.

A5 cubes. Frozen, so were a bit hard to cook properly.

A5 of some sort — great.

Smoking!

Another cut.

Zombie food, aka Pig Brains.

Another bean curd.

And another A5, ribeye or similar.

Goose intestine.

Noodles.

Duck webs.

A non A5 beef.

Spam!

Beef stomach.

Another meat.

Beef tongue.

The man with the lamb.

Trio of sorbetto: chocolate, coco almond, and raspberry ginger.

Awesome night and probably the best hot pot I’ve had n the SGV / HH. Great service, great food, very fresh, nice private room, great sauce bar. Totaled up to $220/pp all in, so not the cheapest, but really good.

They had face dancers too!

Robo waiters.

This is so SGV.

Overall, if you get a private room and order it up, Wagyu X is one of the best hot pots in the greater SGV. Ingredient quality is high, they have a lot of items, the space is good, service is strong, the sauce bar is big. All great!

This place apparently has the same owners as Niku X .

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: BYOG, Chinese cuisine, gealto, hot pot, SGV, spicy, Wagyu House by The X Pot, Wine

Foodie KinKan

Nov29

Restaurant: KinKan LA

Location: 771 N Virgil Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90029. (323) 421-3771

Date: May 24, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese / Thai inflected Fusion

Rating: I’m not sure I’ve had Japanese / Thai like this before…

Erick paved the way with this very interesting Thai / Japanese tasting menu place.

On the sketchy street in Silverlake.

Cute little space but surprisingly empty.

Complementary sake.

DASHI MARINATED IKURA ON NORI TARTLET (left) and Thai larb – dry-aged chutoro almond tartlet (right).

hotaru Iika skewer (firefly squid) with sweetened Thai seafood sauce.

UNI MARTINI WITH ONSEN TAMAGO AND DASHI BROTH.

HAMACHI CRUDO with special seafood sauce.

UME BLOSSOM SOMEN with mango ika, shirasu, fish curry.

SAZAE (JAPANESE SEA SNAIL) FISH BROTH MISO-TOM YUM SOUP and special pink pasta.

SAKE STEAMED LIVE HAIRY CRAB, CAVIAR.

BANGLADESH PRAWN. mentaiko pasta with sesame & chili-garlic sauce.

BINCHOTAN OLIVE-FED A5 WAGYU BEEF (double portion).

Lychee gel and granite.

A really fun meal with interesting Thai/Japanese omakase, great flavors, great wines, and awesome company.

Superb.

A bit more oxidative but lovely.

Intense, fresh, sweet tarts and good weight.

Kind of massive but drinking well.

Lovely, but young.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Foodie Club, Japanese / Thai, KinKan LA, Wine

Vespertine 2.0

Nov19

Restaurant: Vespertine [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 3599 Hayden Ave, Culver City, CA 90232. (323) 320-4023

Date: April 19, 2024

Cuisine: Jordan merges back in Meteora ideas

Rating: Expensive, but flavors are better than old Vespertine

Vespertine is a very unusual confluence of all sorts of artsy weirdness. It’s helmed by Jordan Kahn formerly of Red Medicine and currently of Destroyer across the street. I’ve generally been fond of Jordan’s unique culinary style. Post-pandemic he opened Meteora and has now (finally) reopened Vespertine proper.

Above is the building where the restaurant is located
After a lengthy 4+ year “break” Vespertine is back as Vespertine 2.0. The first floor looks about the same.

A slightly sweet Birch water. Very mild.

Supplements.

The menu.

We went for the rather excellent expensive wine pairing because the BYOB policy is pretty bad — one bottle.

Wild Scallop. Passionfruit, aji amarillo. Very strong high acid sour passionfruit cut through the richness of the scallop nicely.

Spring. Peas, wild onion. The description doesn’t quite reveal even a fraction of the contents, taste, or texture of this flower garden. I think some kind of almond cream stuck it to the bowl.

Deep Ocean. Sweet prawn, quince. Very bright intriguing “broth” taste. Hard to place.

Obsidian Mirror. Smoked mussel, plum. Very soft moussy texture and great flavors. Sweet and briney.

The Deep Seven. Ula’ula koae, red papaya. Some kind of ultrarare deep sea fish.

Coturnix Quail. Heather, sacred pepper. The first of several quail dishes, this was super succulent with the rich “beurre blanc – esque” sauce.

Quail Liver. Pickled forest leaves. A quail dolmade? Very smokey.

Porridge Bread. Heirloom peel corn oats. The fried bread was used to wipe up the liver spread (and flowers).

Fried bread.

Cody, the Somm at this other table.

Aged Dairy Calf. Yeast fudge, magnolia. Succulent, rare, veal. Almost felt like cubes of med rare pork chop.

T

Red Earth. Pumpkin, strawberry. Super smokey baked/roasted yam. Very very Jordan dish.

After the savory we moved back downstairs for dessert.

Jordan said this was Rasmus Munk — if so he gained A LOT of wait.

The tea menu.

T

Temple Mist. Light green tea.

Lamb Fat Pancake. Caramelized maple, woodruff. A sort of fatty beneit / fat glazed donut with a maple cream. Pretty delicious, if slightly oddly meaty.

Special dessert of Uni, old PX, and some other stuff. Oddly, this totally worked.

Icy Birch. Milk jam, tiger nut. Very Jordan. Super cool and mild. Almost like plain ice.

Layers. Black raspberry, tonka bean. This was an amazing dessert. Nice texture with crunch, softness, and chew. But super delicious. I ate half of Erick’s too, despite the sugar.

cherimoya. Very interesting complex fruit flavors, the usual odd texture.

Amazing meal — but eek! Overall the food was some of the best Jordan has ever done. It was less sweet and cloying, totally weird and unique, but consistently delicious. Quantity of savory was a bit low. Service was excellent, especially Cody’s wine service. His high end wine tasting is a fabulous pairing over very nice wines — and this is tough food to pair. There was a somewhat anoying 1:15 stall between the last savory and the desserts. I was getting pretty antsy.

And we weren’t even that full so we stopped at a taco shake for some authentic $2 street tacos! At the opposite price point.

Seething meats all set for the chopping.

Chop, chop!

El Pastor.

Micro tortillas.

Basic street tacos. El pastor, chorizo, and brisket.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Foodie Club, Jordan Kahn, Second Dinner, Tacos, Vespertine, Wine, Wine pairing

Living Large with Lamb

Nov15

Restaurant: Dolan’s Uyghur Cuisine [1, 2]

Location: 742 W Valley Blvd, Alhambra, CA 91803. (626) 782-7555

Date: April 14, 2024

Cuisine: Uyghur Chinese

Rating: Excellent execution, and closer to Afghan than Chinese

It took Yarom and I about 4-5 years to manage to come back here for dinner with a large enough group to order the whole roast lamb!

Dolan’s, which is a new Uyghur place celebrating the cuisine of Western China — the part above Tibet known as Jing Jiang. Perfect for lunch to as they are Halal and don’t allow alcohol.

The interior has a distinctly “western” style — and considerably more style than most Chinese places. While the building was probably some mid-century family restaurant they have added the Islamic style “windows” and tile.

Copper tea pots.

A big menu featuring lamb, lamb, and more lamb! Good thing we love lamb!

Naan stir-fried with Beef. Mostly fried bread. What beef there was had a lovely cumin flavor.

Garlic cucumbers. Nice and tangy.

Salad. Strong tangy dressing.

Beef Pie.

The shell was kinda greasy but addictive.

Another salad, mostly onions, peppers, and tomatoes. But the tart and quick spicy sauce was amazing.

Another stuffed pastry. I liked this one better and it had a strong beef and onions flavor.

Flakey pastry with beef. Very nice texture. Kind of Samosa-like.

Eggs and Tomatoes. Yarom can never resist ordering this one.

The whole lamb.

Revealed.

Super rich, tender, and delicious. Tremendous flavor.

We polished off that baby!

Big Plate Chicken with Wide Noodles. Star anise flavor.

Beef with the special round noodles. These were better noodles.

Lemon Cookie Gelato.

They fight over the leftovers.

Overall, not only was Dolan’s super interesting, but they were delicious as well. It’s related most closely to Western Chinese, but not totally Chinese in style (food-wise, decor isn’t Chinese at all). The kitchen was excellent though, and everything was extremely tasty — you better like lamb though!

For my catalog of Chinese restaurant reviews in China, click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: BYOG, Dolan's Uyghur Cuisine, Gelato, hedonists, lamb, whole lamb, Wine

Game Night at STK

Nov12

Restaurant: STK Westwood

Location: 930 Hilgard Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90024. (310) 659-3535

Date: April 12 & Oct 26, 2024

Cuisine: Steak house

Rating: Excellent neighborhood Italian

Erick put together this game guy dinner at the Westwood STK. This is similar too, but different location than the older Hollywood location.

The menu.

Bread with blu cheese butter.

Tuna Tartare. hass avocado – taro chips – soy-honey emulsion.

Maple & Bourbon Nueske’s Bacon. apple cabbage slaw – pickled mustard seeds.

Crispy Calamari. basil – shishito peppers – roasted garlic & lime aioli – asian chili sauce.

Baby Gem Caesar. parmigiano reggiano – lemon black pepper emulsion – herb crouton.

Filet with mushrooms and pepper sauce.

Porterhouse with flavored butters.

Filet with au poivre sauce.

Dry-Aged Delmonico oscar style.

Filet with caramelized onions and au poivre.

Dry aged ribeye with onions and butter.

Flaming!

Maybe a NY.

Sauces.

Asparagus.

Corn pudding.

Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes.

Mashers “fully loaded”.

Creamed spinach.

Confit Mushrooms. bacon – cheese.

Mushrooms.

Bag O’ Donuts. cinnamon sugar – dulce de leche – raspberry – chocolate. and an Apple Pie. cinnamon crumble – maple crème fraiche

Fun night. Very heavy!

Food here is pretty good. Service is friendly but “confused.” On a second visit in October 2024 they kept bringing things way late and forgetting dishes. They have the typical problem as of late where you rarely see the server, only the runners who do not respond to requests, merely deliver.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Food, Foodie Club, Game Night, Steak, Steak House, STK, Wine

Shin Sen Gumi Skewer Night

Oct28

Restaurant: Shin-Sen-Gumi Yakitori & Chanko Gardena

Location: 18517 S Western Ave, Gardena, CA 90248. (310) 715-1588

Date: March 17, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Yakitori & Chanko

Rating: Surprisingly excellent

Joe wanted to “derail” Chinese Sunday with some Japanese, so we headed down to this Gardena Shin-Set-Gumi which is Yakitori instead of ramen.

This is the “chanko” room of the shin sen gumi yakitori where you can actually make a reservation.

Wines.

Cheese “eggrolls” — ok.

Mushroom salad. Just ok too.

Fried oysters. Pretty good.

Agadashi tofu. I always enjoy this dish.

Chicken hearts. yum.

Pork with shiso. Shiso always makes everything great.

Chicken meat balls.

Bacon asparagus and bacon-wrapped scallops. Crispy and delicious.

Beef and some bacon-wrapped something.

Crispy chicken bits.

Delicious tongue.

Another chicken something.

Okra.

Scallops.

More bacon wrapped scallops.

Beef and bacon wrapped tomatoes.

BBQ chicken.

Crispy chicken tails — awesome!

Another chicken bit.

Wings!

More bacon wrapped scallops.

Garlic.

Delicious sausage and mustard. One of my favorites.

This was our “chanko” which in this case was steamed pork and other stuff. Quite delicious with sauce.

Steamed up.

Here is the other stuff.

Steamy!

Coconut Lime Rum Sorbet.

A deal!

A very fun evening with surprisingly delicious yakitori — since we ordered things extra crispy. Apps aren’t that great but the skewers are.

Shunji in the house!

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Chanko, Foodie Club, Gardena, Gelato, Shin Sen Gumi, Wine, Yakitori

Yuan’s Hot Pot

Oct22

Restaurant: Yuan’s Hot Pot

Location: 8752 Valley Blvd, Rosemead, CA 91770. (626) 703-4458

Date: March 10 and October 5, 2024

Cuisine: Chinese Hot Pot

Rating: Probably the best Hot Pot in the main SGV

This high end hot pot place has a whole floor of nice private rooms.

The whole second floor is dedicated to private rooms.

This one was technically for 10, but really much better with 8. Had two pots. On another occasion I ate in a smaller room with one pot that sat 6-8 perfectly.

There is a very neat upstairs (VIP) sauce bar.

It didn’t have a huge number of items, but the ones it had were really good and really fresh.

Apps were like banchan. They were really good, particularly the two types of mushrooms.

Crispy pork. VERY fried.

Squid.

Shrimp.

Fish roe “dumplings.” Chewy and delicious.

Very nice boneless fish.

Another fish. There was a third which was very boney and not very good.

Tofu wrapped shrimp.

Shrimp or fish balls.

Meat balls and various mushrooms.

meatballs.

Quail eggs.

Tofu.

A5 Wagyu. Not sure it was really A5 but it was the best meat we had.

Smoking!

American or similar wagyu.

More beefs.

More beef.

More beef.

Lamb shoulder.

Bacon!

Spam. Always a favorite of mine.

Snausages.

Lotus.

Fresh bamboo.

Napa cabbage.

A lot of greens.

Sesame balls on the house.

Saffron Pistachio Gelato.

Yuan’s was one of the best classic but elevated spicy hot pot places. It had a broad menu with most everything, awesome private rooms, nice banchan, and a first rate sauce bar. The ingredient quality was also top notch. It doesn’t have some of the weirder broths (although they had spicy + about 4 non-spicy). The private room + high quality makes it pretty killer in my book. Some of the more crowded booth places just aren’t good for more than 4-5 people. Great place and stands out above a lot of the just “good” hot pots. The only one also in this league is Wagyu X.

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For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: BYOG, Chinese cuisine, Gelato, hot pot, SGV, Wine, Yuan's Hot Pot

Sushi Sonagi

Oct20

Restaurant: Sushi Sonagi

Location: 1425 Artesia Blvd UNIT 27, Gardena, CA 90248.

Date: March 2, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi (Omakase)

Rating: Awesome

Situated inside of a historic South Bay strip mall, Sushi Sonagi is Daniel Son’s 8 seat Omakase sushi restaurant that serves to highlight and celebrate the rich sushi culture of Japan, Korea, and California summed up in an omakase.

Sushi Sonagi is a call to honor the spirit of sushi by utilizing the highest quality local ingredients as much as possible. Chef Daniel Son comes as a second generation sushi chef, trained at some of the best Michelin graced restaurants around the world, and is now venturing beyond to bring his journey and heart to his hometown of Gardena, California. The vision at Sushi Sonagi is a culmination of a menu inspired by Japanese and Korean cuisine, techniques, and hospitality that reflects the rich and diverse history of its region, South Bay, California.

With his humble and jovial nature, he continues to strive to hone his craft’s pursuit of perfection, and dreams that guests will enjoy a heartwarming meal at his counter. As such, Sushi Sonagi wishes to create a relaxed and intimate ambience for you and your dining partners.

Artesia strip mall location. Near several In-and-Outs.

Classic sushi bar.

Our menu.

Fish hanging out.

Very attractive room. Reminded me of Yamakase 1.0.

Chawanmush. Lion’s Mane, SB Uni, Gamtae.

Ankimo Tart. Astrea Kaluga Caviar.

Seki Saba Sando. Mackerel Sandwich. Inspired by Gion Rohan, Kyoto.

Madai. Sea Bream. Oita.

Shima Aji. Striped Jack. Kagoshima.

Shiro Ebi. Baby White Shrimp. Toyama.

Seki Aji. Horse Mackerel. Oita.

Katsuura Kinmedai. Golden Eye Snapper. Chiba.

Sawara. King Mackerel. Fukuoka.

Aorika. Big Reef Squid. Kagoshima.

Mirugai. Giant Clam. Canada.

Sumagatsuo. Winter Skipjack. Nagasaki.

Kohada. Gizzard Shad. Kumamoto.

Akagai. Ark Shell Clam. Korea.

Carabineros. Scarlet Shrimp. Spain.

Uni. Sea Urchin. Hokkaido.

Ganjang Gejang. Soy Fermented Crab. Korea.

Anago. Sea Eel. Nagasaki.

Dolsot Kuroawabi. Abalone Stone Pot Rice. Aomori.

Dungeness Crab Soup. Shingiku, Citrus. Oregon.

Miso Butter Atsuyaki Tamago. Miso Butter Omelet. Pretty amazing salty/sweet taste.

Sake Kasu Ice Cream. Miso Caramel, Bubu Arare. Hyogo.

Great wines.
Fun and fabulous dinner. Really on point sushi with exceptional balance by a local southland chef.

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By: agavin
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Tagged as: Gardena, Japanese cuisine, Liz Lee, Nigiri, Sage Society, Southbay, Sushi, Sushi Sonagi, Wine

Zany Zozo

Oct16

Restaurant: Zozo at Maison Midi (closed or moving?)

Location: 148 S La Brea Ave Los Angeles, CA 90036. (323) 746-4700

Date: February 21, 2024

Cuisine: Nuevo Latino / Southwestern

Rating: Excellent neighborhood Italian

After several meals out of the state, I was excited to try the new place by esteemed Southwestern style chef John Sedlar. Last time he was in LA was with Rivera.

Growing up in Santa Fe, New Mexico, John Rivera Sedlar had his first taste of Latin cooking in the kitchens of his mother, aunts, and beloved Grandma Eloisa. “My favorite time of year,” Sedlar remembers, “was before Christmas, when they would gather together in my aunts’ kitchen in Abiquiu, the village where Georgia O’Keeffe lived, to make huge mountains of bizcochitos, empanaditas, and tamales. If I close my eyes, I can still smell those fragrant aromas and taste those sweet, spicy, earthy foods.”

Sedlar’s knowledge of global Latin food traditions expanded during the three years his family spent living in Sevilla and Zaragoza, Spain, when he was 8, 9, and 10 years old.

Honest, down-to-earth experiences fueled Sedlar’s drive to become a chef. He worked his way through popular restaurants in Santa Fe before moving to Southern California, where he won a local following in the South Bay region in his early 20s. “But I knew there had to be more than cooking surf-and-turf specials, he says.

Interesting restaurant in a house goods store vibe!

The small menu.

Our wine.

Kennebecs. Papas fritas, sorrel puree. Basically potato chips.

Jerusalem Hummus. Garbanzos, jugo de oliva, za’atar, tortilla arabesque. I can’t eat chickpeas so I didn’t try.

The pita bread was gorgeous, however.

Pato Tamarindo. Duck leg confit, estilo zapoteco. The lovely duck leg had a nice smokey flavor.

Hongo Con Queso. Portobello, crema de queso azul. Basically a quessadilla. Very creamy and mild.

Caviar Tortilla. Maize cake, fish roe, bermuda onion. Really great with that classic creme fraiche and caviar thing.

Snail Forestière. Escargots, jamón ibérico, trumpet, persillade. Tasted like Spanish mushrooms. Really buttery and nice.

Native Farm. Turkey albóndigas, red chile pepita sauce. The turkey meat balls themselves were a touch dry — a turkey problem — but the sauce was great.

Pasture. Abiquiu lamb. chayote chutney, heirloom polenta. Tasty.

Vegetable plate. Nice rustic flavors.

Farrow or forbidden rice or something.

Rattatoulie.

Roasted radishes.

Pork chop special.

Air. Citrus vapor, scallops, sea beans, hoja santa. Very light and “airy.”

More vegies.

Overall, Zozo was very enjoyable and quite reasonable. You do need to order most of the menu because it’s small and the dishes themselves are small. The presentation is generally more rustic and homey than Rivera or John Sedlar’s previous restaurants.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: John Sedlar, Wine, Zozo

Second New Year

Oct10

Restaurant: Sea Harbor Seafood Restaurant [1, 2]

Location: 3939 Rosemead Blvd. Rosemead, CA 91770. (626) 288-3939

Date: February 12, 2024

Cuisine: Cantonese

Rating: Good, but very expensive

After many many dim sum visits to this SGV Cantonese classic I finally make it for dinner banquet — and this time on Chinese New Year.

I think Sea Harbor has been around for a long time and is one of the mainstays.

The interior is pretty typical.

The private room at Sea Harbor. I have been here countless times for dim sum but not for dinner in a long time.

Eve brought a huge amount of caviar — salt all night!

Peanuts.

Celery or asparagus with truffle. A bit truffle oily but the vegies had a nice crunch.

Fried squid. Salty and good.

Fried tofu with chilies.

Pig Trotter “Salad.” Nice flavor actually. Lots of ginger.

Geoduck (I think) salad. Great crunchy and strong (onion) flavor. I had a couple helpings of this as it seemed very fresh.

Fried Geoduck. Excellent fry. Super crunchy and chewy with a lovely flavor. Very salty.

Roast quail/pigeon. Very good version of this dish.

Shiitake and abalone in brown sauce. I’m not sure I prefer those so “straight up.”

Soup. One of those “all ingredients” brown soups.

Steamed crab. Good, but I prefer it with the garlic.

Typhoon style crab body. Very tasty fry.

Crab custard.

Fish head.

He’s looking at you!

Greens. Straight up.

Fish meat. Tasty and not too many bones.

Almond cookies for New Year.

Sweet soup.

Eve brought Basque Cheesecake.

Then covered it in caviar.

And lime zest.

It was really quite good this way. The zest really kicked it up.

Strawberry Jam Gelato.

Awesome wines.

This was a super fun dinner. Wines and company were amazing. Food was very good, if just a hair “staid” in certain ways. Mostly it was just that the price ($470 all in) was pretty outrageous. Sure it had a lot of luxury ingredients but it should have been more like $300.

For more LA Chinese reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Chinese cuisine, Chinese New Year, Eve, Gelato, Sea Harbor, SGV, Wine

Endless New Year

Oct08

Restaurant: Indian, The Tavern [1, 2]

Location: 633 S San Gabriel Blvd #105, San Gabriel, CA 91776. (626) 287-0688

Date: February 10, 2024

Cuisine: Chinese

Rating: Longest Chinese meal ever!

It’s hard to describe this particular SGV restaurant. But Andrea organized this special Chinese New Year’s banquet.

From the outside it looks like most of them.

But then inside it has this weird western saloon theme. Presumably it was some kind of “Indian bar” back in the 50s. The decor has partially stuck, but the menu is almost all Chinese.

We had this rustic table in the “party room.”

Not so PC!

We had the whole room.

Fried Stinky Tofu. Smelled bad, tasted like baby poop!

Crunchy spicy cabbage — good for removing the poop taste.

發財好市 Prosperous Market. Oysters with Black Moss, pork, and cabbage.

Incredibly interesting textures and great flavor — although not a looker in this format.

黃金仙子 Golden Fairies. Whole U-10 Scallops with Egg White Sauce and Fish Roe.

Very tasty.

海皇豆腐羹 Health and Longevity. Assorted Seafood and Bean Curd Soup. This was so good I had 3 bowls. Awesome!

年年有餘 More Than Enough Year After Year. Steamed Whole Live Fish.

Very tasty but a lot of bones.

Signature Prawns and Corn Kernels with Preserved Duck Egg Yolks. The crunchy corn was awesome.

Paul rapped — quite excellently.

包羅萬有 Ocean Treasures Discovered. Braised Gourmet Seafood (Abalone, Sea Cucumber, Fish Maw, Sundried Scallops…)

Icky looking again, but great flavors and textures.

飛龍在天 Dragon Above the Cloud. Lobster and Yee-Fu Noodles with Ginger and Scallions.

Delicious and tender.

金雞報喜 Chicken Bringing Good News. Authentic Fried Chicken. Very juicy and delicious.

Traditional Tea Smoked Duck. Smoky.

寶盆生花 Pearls in Treasure Pot. Mini Stuffed Gluten Balls in Light Peanut Paste (Desert).

Probably the best Chinese dessert soup I’ve had — actually quite delicious — like liquid peanut butter.

Lovechild, Pecan Praline, and Cremino Siciliano.

Crepe cakes!

The wines.

Overall, the place was surprisingly excellent. And they did these really interesting dishes. However, the timing was glacial to say the least. This meal was OVER 7 HOURS LONG! And Chinese food is usually super fast. There were two different 60-90 minute gaps between dishes. Twice I just went over to an empty booth, lay down and took an hour long nap!

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For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Chinese New Year, Foodie Club, Gelato, Indian Tavern, Lunar New Year, SGV, Wine

Eating Napa – Glen Ellen Star

Oct06

Restaurant: Glen Ellen Star

Location: 13648 Arnold Dr, Glen Ellen, CA 95442. (707) 343-1384

Date: January 7, 2024

Cuisine: New American

Rating: Lots of food

Third in this photo series — with a mega set menu designed for about 12 when we have 6! Getting here was a challenge, with 40 minutes winding over a mountain on a dark and rainy night.