Author Archive for agavin

Do Chicken Out

Aug25

Restaurant: Gokigen Tori

Location: 4410 Sepulveda Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230.

Date: April 18, 2025

Cuisine: Yakitori

Rating: Fresh and excellent

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Erick had met one of the owners of this new Culver City artisanal Yakitori place.

So we went for the soft opening.

Medium sized room and a generous bar.

These make me think of Ramen Roll.

The Gosset Champagne Grand Réserve is a stellar expression from the renowned Champagne region of France, characterized by its elegant blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. This non-vintage bubbly offers a sumptuous bouquet of ripe apple, toasted bread, and a hint of hazelnut, revealing its nuanced complexity. Best paired with seafood dishes like oysters or creamy cheeses, it lightens the palate and elevates the dining experience with its fine bubbles and zesty acidity.

The 2011 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Cave des Ducs Monopole by Benjamin Leroux exemplifies the elegance of Pinot Noir from Burgundy. This vintage presents a striking bouquet of red cherries, floral notes, and earthiness, seamlessly intertwined with subtle oak nuances. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity make it a perfect companion for duck confit or mushroom risotto, enhancing the dish’s rich flavors while maintaining a refined balance.

With its delicate structure and nuanced complexity, this wine invites slow sipping and contemplation, revealing layers of spice and minerality as it breathes. Ideal for cellaring, it will continue to evolve, but is already accessible and harmonious, showcasing the terroir of Volnay beautifully.

The 2009 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru “Les Fuées” from Dujac Fils & Père showcases the elegance of Burgundy with its captivating aromas of red berries, violets, and subtle earthiness. Hailing from the prestigious Côte de Nuits region, this Pinot Noir exhibits a graceful structure and refined tannins, making it a perfect pairing for duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto.

This wine’s luscious texture and vibrant acidity are complemented by its layered complexity, with hints of spice and cedar emerging as it breathes. The 2009 vintage, marked by warm conditions, allows the fruit to shine brilliantly, creating a harmonious balance that can be enjoyed now or aged further for added depth.

The bar is the place to be for that authentic binchochan vibe.

And an old friend from World Sake was there too!

The menu at Gokigen Tori showcases a delightful variety of Japanese-inspired dishes, emphasizing grilled and fried preparations, including options such as yakitori and donburi. Diners can expect a mix of traditional flavors and contemporary presentations, offering a satisfying experience for both casual eaters and culinary enthusiasts alike.

Cute!

A plate of apps.

Firefly shrimp with miso sauce. Tender and sweet-briny, the shrimp have a gentle snap, while the miso brings warm umami and a glossy sheen.

Chicken liver toast. REBA pâté. Ethical liver pâté. Silky, rich, and gently iron-sweet, with the toast adding a satisfying crunch.

In a delicate presentation, the dish titled Seasoned Shiitake and Celery Stems invites with a vibrant palette of vivid greens and soft, caramelized browns. Each ingredient is meticulously treated, radiating a sweet, earthy aroma that hints at the rich umami depths to come. The crisp texture of the celery offers a refreshing contrast to the tender, velvety shiitake, creating a harmonious mouthfeel. As you savor each bite, the dish unfolds layers of flavor—subtle sweetness interlaced with a hint of smokiness, layered in a graceful dance that lingers delightfully on the palate.

A vibrant Garden Fresh Salad, beckons with its lively palette of greens punctuated by slender ribbons of orange carrot and delicate cherry tomatoes, each glistening under the soft light. The air is perfumed with the subtle, earthy aroma of freshly torn herbs, mingling with a whisper of citrus that invigorates the senses. Each bite unveils a delightful medley of textures: the crispness of lettuce, coupled with the tender snap of bean sprouts, dances harmoniously on the palate. The interplay of flavors is a celebration of nature itself—refreshing, tangy notes interspersed with a hint of nuttiness that lingers, inviting you to savor every morsel of this exquisite creation.

Sashimi. Pristine raw fish served in cool, delicate slices, with clean ocean sweetness and a tender, silken bite.

GOKIGEN KUSHI. Our Signature Skewer – Chicken Wing Drumette. Crisp-skinned and juicy, with a savory, lightly smoky glaze that begs another bite.

Dashimaki Tamago Mentaiko. Omelette topped with mentaiko. Silky, dashi-laced egg with a tender, custardy bite, while the mentaiko adds a briny, gently spicy pop and a pretty coral sheen.

HATSU. Chicken Heart. Gently grilled, it’s springy yet tender and deeply savory, with a subtle mineral sweetness.

Chawanmushi. Steamed egg custard with ikura and uni. Silky and gently dashi-scented, the custard is delicate and savory, with the briny pop of ikura and creamy uni adding a lush, saline finish.

Sunagimo. Crunchy, chewy chicken gizzard. Lightly salted and grilled yakitori-style, it delivers a snappy bite with gentle smokiness and a clean, minerally savor.

Seseri. Tender chicken from the neck area. Juicy and slightly fatty, it has a gentle chew and really shines when kissed by a smoky grill.

Chashu Ajitama. Slow-cooked Japanese pork belly with ramen egg. Looks like dog food—tastes great. Tender, slow-braised pork with melting fat and a jammy, marinated yolk; savory, salty-sweet, and deeply comforting.

Tebasaki. Crispy Grilled Chicken Wing. Expect crisp skin with a lick of smoke and juicy meat, often finished with a sweet-salty soy glaze and a peppery kick.

Negi Niku. Chicken thigh pieces with Tokyo negi. Juicy, lightly charred chicken meets the sweet, oniony snap of negi—simple, satisfying yakitori comfort. Clean, savory flavors with a kiss of smoke and a tender bite.

Bonjiri (“Bon-Bon Jirit”) – Chicken-Tail Skewers. Nankotsu – Chicken Cartilage. Bonjiri is rich and fatty with crispy, caramelized edges, while nankotsu delivers a salty, smoky crunch.

KAWA. Crispy Chicken Skin. Shatteringly crisp and deeply savory, with golden, blistered edges and a rich, smoky chew beneath the crackle.

Chee-P Maki. Pork-and-cheese bomb with green pepper shell. Melty and savory inside, with a crisp, fresh snap from the pepper—a playful, big-flavor bite.

A5 Wagyu. A5 Japanese Wagyu beef with premium sea urchin topping. Silky, intensely marbled beef and creamy, briny-sweet uni combine for a decadent, melt-in-the-mouth bite.

A5 Unagi. Grilled freshwater eel flown in from Toyosu Fish Market in Japan. Expect silky, buttery flesh, umami-rich and gently smoky, with a light char at the edges.

Crème brûlée with a bit of bean topping. Classic crackly caramel gives way to a silky, gently sweet custard beneath; the topping adds a playful extra note without stealing the spotlight.

This was some of the best Yakitori I’ve had in LA since Yakitori-ya. The quality of the chicken is extremely high and the chef really knows his charcoal!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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  4. Final Miyagi
  5. Good Night at Good Alley
By: agavin
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Marcus at Pasjoli

Aug23

Restaurant: Pasjoli

Location: 2732 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405. (424) 330-0020

Date: April 17, 2025

Cuisine: French

Chef: Dave Beran / Marcus Jernmark

Rating: One of the best here yet

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Dave first encountered Marcus Jernmark’s culinary genius during visits to Aquavit in NY and 3 Michelin star Frantzén in Sweden. Though they didn’t meet then, Dave was captivated by the meals. Years later, Marcus visited Dialogue, Dave’s first LA restaurant, and the two chefs connected over their shared journey of leaving the three-star world to forge their own paths. “Marcus is a kindred spirit,” Dave says. “We both chose the road less traveled, and it’s brought us here.” This dinner is a toast to bold choices and bold flavors.

Pasjoli opened its doors on Main Street in September 2019, the second Santa Monica venture from chef-owner Dave Beran, who earned national attention at Chicago’s Next and later at the tiny, tasting-menu-only Dialogue a few blocks north. With Pasjoli he set out to create the kind of grand Parisian bistro he had always admired—one that honors the rigor of Escoffier while remaining rooted in Southern California’s markets. The kitchen turns out pâté en croûte studded with pistachios, buttery quenelles of pike in lobster sauce, and the show-stopping pressed duck for two, yet the produce is hauled in daily from the Santa Monica Farmers Market and the sauces are lightened to suit the beach climate. That marriage of classical French technique and coastal seasonality quickly drew raves, a spot on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list, and in 2021 a Michelin star, cementing Pasjoli as one of the city’s essential fine-dining addresses.

The room amplifies the food’s quietly luxurious spirit. A façade of folding glass doors keeps the dining room airy by day, while at night low amber lighting glints off a pewter bar, burgundy leather banquettes, and brass railings that recall a Belle Époque brasserie without lapsing into nostalgia. The soundtrack is lively, the service choreographed but relaxed, and the energy spills onto the sidewalk tables that watch the steady buzz of Main Street. In a neighborhood better known for beach cafés and juice bars, Pasjoli provides a grown-up counterpoint—elegant yet unpretentious, driven by craft rather than trend. Its arrival signaled a maturing of Santa Monica’s dining scene, and four years on it remains a magnet for chefs, sommeliers, and diners who want to taste classic French cuisine filtered through a distinctly Californian lens.
Chef-owner Dave Beran grew up in Wisconsin, cut his teeth in Chicago, and made his name working alongside Grant Achatz at Alinea before taking the helm at the Alinea Group’s boundary-pushing restaurant Next. During his five-year run there he orchestrated the famed rotating menus—most memorably “Paris 1906” and “Tribute to elBulli”—and earned a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Great Lakes in 2014. In 2017 he decamped to the West Coast, opening the 18-seat tasting counter Dialogue in Santa Monica, which garnered a Michelin star in its first California guide. Pasjoli, his bustling French restaurant on Main Street, followed in late 2019 and soon claimed a star of its own, cementing Beran as one of the rare chefs to earn Michelin recognition on two coasts.

Pasjoli channels the rigor of haute cuisine into the soul of a Parisian bistro. Beran is fascinated by the structure and precision of classic French technique—an obsession born while recreating Escoffier’s dishes at Next—yet he tempers that formality with the easy affluence of Southern California produce and a room set for neighborhood conviviality rather than hushed reverence. The pressed duck à la rouennaise, carved tableside with an antique silver duck press, is a signature centerpiece, while seemingly humble plates like onion tart or a croque monsieur arrive layered with painstaking detail, hidden stocks, and sauces that take days to build. His cooking carries the intellectual curiosity of the modernist kitchens he came from, but the plating is deliberately unfussy, foregoing tweezers for the warmth of a bistro.

Beran’s guiding philosophy is that luxury should feel generous, not exclusionary. He believes a restaurant’s role is to “honor the people who grew the ingredients and the guests who saved up to eat them,” so menus are written around peak-season markets, staff are encouraged to describe dishes in plain language, and service aims for polish without pretense. The result is a restaurant that nods to the grand traditions of Taillevent and Troisgros while speaking the relaxed dialect of Santa Monica—a place where a perfect omelet and a grand cru Burgundy can share the same table, united by the idea that craft and comfort should never be at odds.

Welcome cocktail. A little sweet but delicious, this drink offers a refreshing balance that tantalizes the palate. Its vibrant color and inviting aroma make it a perfect start to any meal.

Cheese rind “en croûte” is a delightful dish that showcases the rich, creamy texture of cheese enveloped in a crisp, golden crust. The contrast between the crunchy exterior and the luscious interior creates a satisfying bite, while the flavors meld beautifully, offering a savory experience that is both comforting and indulgent.

Buckwheat “pannkaka”: Swedish vendace roe, raw beef, and egg yolk garum*. This dish presents a delightful interplay of textures, with the nutty buckwheat pancake providing a hearty base for the rich, creamy yolk and the delicate, briny roe. Each bite is a harmonious blend of flavors that celebrates the essence of Swedish cuisine.

Charred broccolini is beautifully complemented by pickled fennel and a sprinkle of fennel furikake, creating a delightful balance of flavors. The whipped goat cheese adds a creamy richness, while the market greens provide a fresh, vibrant crunch that elevates the dish.

Ris de veau agnolotti features delicate pasta parcels filled with sweetbreads, complemented by earthy morels, savory aged duck ham, and a touch of fortified wine. The dish is a harmonious blend of rich flavors and luxurious textures, with the agnolotti offering a tender bite that beautifully contrasts the umami depth of the other ingredients.

Short rib smørrebrød features tender, flavorful short rib atop a crisp, hearty bread, complemented by pickled cucumber, egg jam, dijonnaise, and vibrant watermelon radish. The dish offers a delightful contrast of textures, with the richness of the meat balanced by the acidity of the pickles and the creaminess of the egg jam.

The dish, Braised Beef Tartine, presents a stunning tableau of rich mahogany hues, inviting the diner to delve into its depths. The air is perfumed with a tantalizing blend of umami and herbs, each note harmonizing to evoke a sense of rustic elegance. The tartine’s crust is a masterclass in texture, boasting a crisp exterior that yields to a tender, savory filling of slow-cooked beef, while the delicate interplay of pickled cucumbers and fresh herbs adds a refreshing crunch. Each bite is a symphony of flavors, where the earthiness of the meat meets the bright acidity of the garnishes, creating a culinary experience that is both luxurious and grounded in tradition.

Asparagus with caraway sauce mousseline is a delightful dish that showcases the vibrant green spears, elegantly draped in a creamy, herb-infused sauce. The tender asparagus offers a crisp bite, while the caraway adds a subtle warmth and complexity, making for a beautifully balanced flavor profile.

Grilled rainbow trout is beautifully complemented by asparagus and a caraway sauce mousseline, adorned with market herbs and flowers. The fish boasts a delicate, flaky texture and a subtly smoky flavor, while the vibrant herbs and flowers add a refreshing touch to the dish.

Apple & rhubarb tarte tatin is a delightful twist on the classic French dessert, featuring the perfect balance of sweet apples and tart rhubarb. The caramelized crust is beautifully golden, while the tender fruit beneath offers a luscious, melt-in-your-mouth experience that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Fromage blanc sherbet, lavender caramel. This delightful dessert boasts a creamy, smooth texture that contrasts beautifully with the silky sweetness of the lavender caramel, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. The subtle floral notes elevate the dish, making it a refreshing and elegant treat.

Tasty stuff!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Dirty Dozen West

Aug21

Restaurant: BOA Steakhouse Santa Monica

Location: 101 Santa Monica Blvd #180, Santa Monica, CA 90401. (310) 899-4466

Date: April 16, 2025

Cuisine: Steakhouse

Rating: Food is just fine

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It’s been years since we were back at Boa SM. It’s about the same as Sunset Boa, but closer to work and has a nicer atmosphere. Really just a pretty cheap, only fair steak house. This visit was for a Dirty Dozen blind tasting on the Red Burgundy theme — why red burgundy at steakhouses — no idea.

BOA Steakhouse Santa Monica opened its doors in 2001, bringing a glossy, forward-thinking take on the classic American steakhouse to the beach city’s dining strip. The restaurant is owned and operated by Innovative Dining Group (IDG), the Los Angeles hospitality company founded by Lee Maen, Craig Katz, and Philip Cummins, whose portfolio also includes Sushi Roku and Katana. BOA’s culinary creed pairs uncompromising ingredient quality—USDA Prime beef dry-aged in house, Japanese A5 wagyu, pristine local seafood—with a playful California sensibility. Diners can customize cuts with signature rubs like black truffle or chipotle, match them with flights of house-made sauces, and balance the richness with farmers-market vegetables, crudo, or a citrus-bright cocktail from the bar’s seasonally driven program.

Designer Dodd Mitchell fashioned the 8,500-square-foot space at 101 Santa Monica Boulevard into a sleek yet inviting hideaway: a glowing onyx bar, floor-to-ceiling wine racks, walnut paneling, and espresso-hued leather banquettes that open onto a heated patio via retractable glass walls. The room’s low amber light and surf-side breeze merge Hollywood polish with coastal ease, making it a magnet for deal-makers, date-night couples, and celebrities looking to slip into a corner booth after a premiere.

Two decades on, BOA has cemented itself as a Westside institution, mentioned alongside Michael’s and Mélisse as a pillar of Santa Monica dining. Its modern, guest-centric spin on steakhouse tradition—gluten-free bread service, organic produce partnerships, a bar stocked with small-batch California spirits—regularly earns nods from the Los Angeles Times, Eater LA, and Angeleno. From tech executives courting investors to tourists capping a pier-side afternoon, the crowd is as diverse as the city it feeds, proof that BOA’s mix of luxury and laid-back charm has become part of the local fabric.

It’s been years since we were back at Boa SM. It’s about the same as Sunset Boa, but closer to work and has a nicer atmosphere. Really just a pretty cheap, only fair steak house.

The menu at BOA Steakhouse Santa Monica highlights a sophisticated selection of premium steaks and seafood, complemented by a variety of innovative appetizers and sides. Diners can expect a blend of classic and contemporary dishes, emphasizing high-quality ingredients and bold flavors.


The menu.

The Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois hails from the Champagne region of France, showcasing a non-vintage blend that highlights the house’s commitment to quality and tradition. This elegant Champagne is characterized by its rich aromas of toasted brioche, creamy caramel, and hints of citrus zest. It pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a delicate lobster salad, elevating the dining experience with its fine bubbles and vibrant acidity.

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ-Canet from Domaine Paul Pernot et ses Fils showcases the elegance of Burgundy. With its vibrant acidity and notes of white flowers, citrus, and a hint of minerality, this Chardonnay pairs beautifully with grilled lobster or a creamy risotto, enhancing the dish’s flavors while offering a refreshing contrast.

Alongside, the wine presents a luxurious mouthfeel, with layers of ripe pear and subtle oak influence, reflecting the meticulous craftsmanship of the producer. The finish is long and refined, making it an ideal choice for special occasions or an indulgent dinner.

The 2021 Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Les Frionnes from Domaine Chassagne-Montrachet showcases the elegance of Burgundy. With its vibrant acidity and minerality, this Chardonnay exudes notes of green apple, citrus, and subtle floral hints. Ideal for pairing with delicate seafood dishes or creamy cheeses, it offers a refreshing balance that enhances the dining experience.

The 2021 vintage highlights the terroir of Saint-Aubin, producing a wine that is both complex and approachable. Hints of toasted oak and a touch of spice intertwine with its fruit-forward profile, making it a versatile companion for grilled fish or roasted poultry. The lingering finish leaves a lasting impression, inviting another sip.


Chopped Wedge. Better not chopped. Not enough dressing or bacon.

Cesar. They can do it tableside here—but they didn’t for us, and ours was fairly lame. The salad lacked the vibrant flavor and creamy texture that a well-prepared Caesar should deliver, leaving us wanting the theatrical presentation that elevates this classic dish.

Shrimp cocktail is a classic appetizer that never fails to impress. The succulent, chilled shrimp are perfectly cooked, offering a delightful snap with each bite, while the tangy cocktail sauce adds a zesty kick that elevates the dish. It’s a timeless favorite that beautifully balances freshness and flavor.

Steak Tartare is a classic dish that showcases the simplicity and purity of high-quality beef. This dish features finely chopped raw steak, seasoned with capers, onions, and a hint of mustard, creating a delightful balance of flavors. The tender texture and vibrant presentation make it a standout choice for those who appreciate the art of raw cuisine.

Meatball—a classic comfort food that never fails to satisfy. These savory orbs are typically tender and juicy, bursting with flavor from a blend of herbs and spices, often served in a rich tomato sauce. Whether nestled in a sub or atop a bed of pasta, they evoke a sense of home and warmth with every bite.


Chicken.

Steak is a timeless classic that never fails to impress. The rich, savory flavors combined with a tender, juicy texture create an unforgettable dining experience. Whether grilled to perfection or seared in a cast iron skillet, each bite offers a satisfying depth that speaks to its culinary heritage.

Steak is a timeless classic that never fails to impress. Its rich, savory flavor, perfectly seared crust, and tender, juicy interior make it a beloved choice for meat lovers. Whether grilled to perfection or pan-seared with a hint of garlic, each bite offers a satisfying experience that speaks to culinary tradition.


And more steak.

Creamed Spinach is a rich and velvety side dish that perfectly balances the earthiness of fresh spinach with a creamy, buttery sauce. The dish’s vibrant green color and smooth texture make it both visually appealing and indulgently satisfying, often elevating any meal it accompanies.


Mushrooms.

Cauliflower Parm is a delightful twist on the classic Italian dish, featuring tender cauliflower coated in a crispy, golden-brown crust. The rich layers of marinara and melted cheese create a comforting harmony of flavors, while the cauliflower’s subtle nuttiness adds depth to each bite.

Mac & Cheese is a comforting classic that brings warmth and nostalgia with every bite. The creamy, rich cheese sauce envelops perfectly cooked pasta, creating a delightful contrast of textures that is both indulgent and satisfying. Its golden, bubbly top adds an inviting appearance, making it a beloved dish across generations.


Brussels.

Fries are the ultimate comfort food, crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. Their golden-brown appearance and satisfying crunch make them irresistible, whether enjoyed plain or paired with a variety of dips.

Scores.


Wines were fairly solid.

While the wines were good, the food was just meh. The price was right, and they treat us well, but this place is not to write home about. The 2005 Jadot CV was mine.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Takeda Two

Aug18

Restaurant: Takeda Sushi [1, 2]

Location: 123 Astronaut Ellison S Onizuka St #307, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 613-0083

Date: April 11, 2025

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi

Rating: Could be the best sushi I’ve had in LA

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Since opening its quietly elegant doors in 2021 at 118 Judge John Aiso Street in Little Tokyo, Sushi Takeda has become an insider favorite among Los Angeles omakase counters. The restaurant is owned and helmed by chef-proprietor Hideyuki “Hideo” Takeda, a Tokyo native who spent decades honing Edomae technique at respected sushi bars in both Japan and Southern California before striking out on his own. His 14-seat space is a study in restrained Japanese design—blond hinoki, charcoal slate, and a single, gleaming sushi bar where every evening’s service unfolds like a choreographed whisper.

Takeda’s culinary philosophy centers on precision, seasonality, and minimal intervention: fish is flown in daily from Toyosu Market or sourced from specialty West Coast fishermen, then meticulously aged, cured, or lightly torched to coax out umami. Koshihikari rice seasoned with akazu red vinegar is molded into compact, two-bite nigiri that vanish as quickly as they appear. The effect is a serene, almost meditative progression of flavors—Santa Barbara uni laced with yuzu, lightly pickled kohada, sublimely fatty toro—served directly from the chef’s hand. In a downtown scene crowded with high-profile sushi counters, Sushi Takeda occupies a niche of understated excellence, earning nods from critics and dedicated regulars alike for delivering one of the city’s most authentic, deeply personal omakase experiences.

With its vibrant pink umbrellas and sleek modern architecture, the airy outdoor space invites diners to indulge in a lively culinary experience, seamlessly blending contemporary design with a relaxed, sociable atmosphere.

Takeda’s omakase is formally Edomae yet unmistakably personal. He seasons Koshihikari rice with a blend of two akazu (sake-lees vinegars) for contrast and temperature-controls every neta in individual cedar drawers, but he allows himself flourishes learned in California: a whisper of smoked soy on kinmedai, freshly grated wasabi folded with Santa Barbara uni, or an optional pairing of Hokkaido scallop and Baja citrus that would scandalize the purists back home. Influences range from his mentor Masaki Sato—who drilled into him the virtue of restraint—to the late LA pioneer Hiro Urasawa, whose theatrical minimalism convinced Takeda that intimacy could be as memorable as luxury.

Within three years the restaurant earned a Michelin star, a spot on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best Restaurants,” and a quiet cult among visiting chefs. Takeda credits the accolades to a philosophy he phrases simply: “Ichigo-ichie—one moment, one meeting.” The night’s menu is built not around status fish but around conversation: what the diner is curious about, what the fisherman happened to land, what the season offers that will never be repeated in exactly the same way. “Technique keeps the past alive,” he likes to say, “but hospitality is how we cook for the present.”

Bathed in a serene palette of soft yellows and clean lines, Sushi Takeda’s exterior beckons diners with its understated elegance — way understated.

The menu at Sushi Takeda features a curated Signature Omakase experience.

The 2009 Batard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive is a stunning representation of Burgundy’s Grand Cru pedigree. This rich, complex Chardonnay showcases aromas of ripe stone fruits, subtle oak, and a hint of minerality, reflecting its terroir beautifully. With a creamy texture and vibrant acidity, it pairs exquisitely with lobster in a butter sauce or a delicate roasted chicken.

As an example of exceptional craftsmanship, this wine delights with layers of flavor, including notes of hazelnut and honey, complemented by a long, elegant finish. The vintage’s warm growing season has resulted in a wine that is approachable now yet possesses the structure to evolve gracefully over time, making it a perfect choice for special occasions.

Baby eel and uni is a delightful combination that showcases the ocean’s bounty. The tender, slightly chewy texture of the baby eel pairs beautifully with the creamy, briny richness of the uni, creating a harmonious balance of flavors that is both fresh and indulgent.

Hairy crab ball is a delightful dish that showcases the sweet, tender meat of hairy crab, expertly blended into a savory ball. Its crispy exterior gives way to a rich, flavorful filling, making each bite a satisfying experience that captures the essence of coastal cuisine.

Salon, located in the renowned Côte des Blancs region of Champagne, produces this exquisite 1996 vintage, a true embodiment of elegance and finesse. Known for its pure Chardonnay expression, this Champagne showcases notes of white flowers, citrus zest, and a hint of brioche. Its creamy texture and persistent bubbles make it a perfect pairing for delicate seafood dishes, such as oysters or lobster.

The 1996 vintage is particularly celebrated for its balance and aging potential, allowing it to develop complex flavors over time. With its vibrant acidity and minerality, this wine not only delights the palate but also invigorates the senses, making it an exceptional choice for special occasions or sophisticated gatherings.


Blue fin.

Condiments.

Conch.

Young red snapper.

Presented with an air of quiet elegance, the dish Umi no Sachi captivates the senses with its vibrant hues of deep emerald and gold. The aroma wafts gently, an inviting blend of umami and the briny essence of the ocean, drawing you closer. The texture is a harmonious interplay of creamy richness enveloped in a delicate, crisp seaweed that crackles with each bite. As you savor it, the flavor unfolds—subtle yet profound, with layers of sweetness and a whisper of saltiness that linger, echoing the sea’s bounty and leaving a memorable imprint on the palate.

Spechial uni from near Kobe—almost “aged.” This delicacy boasts a creamy texture and a subtly sweet, briny flavor that lingers on the palate, showcasing the unique umami profile of the region. Its appearance is a vibrant golden hue, inviting and luxurious.

Eaten with toasted nori and creamy like fermented butter! The combination offers a delightful contrast between the crisp, umami-rich nori and the rich, velvety texture of the dish, creating a harmonious balance that is both comforting and indulgent.


Bluefin tuna.

Chef Hideyuki Takeda was born in Sapporo, where his family ran a small fish-wholesaling business that kept him on the docks before dawn from the time he could walk. After an apprenticeship in the kitchens of Tokyo’s Tsukiji market district, he spent a decade behind the counter at some of the capital’s most exacting Edomae houses—first at Sushi Matsunami in Nihonbashi and later at the two-Michelin-starred Sushi Shin in Ginza—before moving to California in 2012. Los Angeles diners first met him as head itamae at the original Sushi Zo in downtown; stints at Q and Shiki Beverly Hills followed, sharpening both his English and his understanding of the American palate. In 2020 he struck out on his own, opening Sushi Takeda on a quiet second-floor mezzanine in DTLA’s Jewelry District, where the 10-seat hinoki counter now books out weeks in advance.


Firefly squid.

The Salon Champagne, produced in the renowned Côte des Blancs region of France, is a stunning example of a vintage Blanc de Blancs. The 2008 vintage showcases a remarkable balance of crisp acidity and delicate effervescence, offering notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a touch of brioche. This elegant sparkling wine pairs exquisitely with seafood dishes, particularly freshly shucked oysters or a delicate lobster salad.

With its rich history and meticulous craftsmanship, Salon’s wines are a celebration of terroir, making it a perfect choice for special occasions. The 2008 vintage’s complexity and depth resonate beautifully with the refined palate, ensuring a memorable tasting experience that elevates any gathering.

Squid with bottarga is a delightful dish that showcases the briny richness of the sea. The tender squid is perfectly complemented by the umami-packed bottarga, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures. Its elegant presentation invites you to savor each bite, making it a memorable culinary experience.

Chawanmushi with seaweed, yuzu, and oyster is a delicate Japanese steamed egg custard that beautifully balances savory and umami flavors. The silky texture is complemented by the briny richness of the oyster and the bright citrus notes of yuzu, creating a dish that is both comforting and refreshing.


Squid egg!  (sack)

The squid eggs out of their case. Not for the faint of heart.

Mackerel.

Firefly squid a second way, marinated with sake and Chinese wine. This dish showcases the delicate sweetness of the squid, enhanced by the umami of the marinade, resulting in a tender and flavorful bite that is visually striking with its iridescent hues.

Abalone with abalone sauce is a dish that showcases the delicate, briny flavor of the sea. The tender, slightly chewy texture of the abalone is beautifully complemented by the rich, umami-packed sauce, creating a harmonious balance that is both luxurious and satisfying.

The 1999 Chablis Grand Cru Clos from Domaine William Fèvre showcases the pinnacle of Chardonnay from the Chablis region. Its vibrant acidity balances the complex layers of citrus, green apple, and a hint of flint, reflecting the terroir’s unique minerality. This elegant wine pairs beautifully with fresh oysters or poached fish, enhancing the dish’s delicate flavors.

The rich history of this Grand Cru, marked by its limestone soil and meticulous vineyard practices, results in an exquisite wine that evolves gracefully with age. The 1999 vintage, in particular, offers a luscious mouthfeel and a long, persistent finish, making it a perfect accompaniment to creamy sauces or aged cheeses.


Goldeneye snapper.

Kama toro (collar). I’m not sure I’ve had this anywhere other than ootoro. This cut is known for its rich, buttery texture and a delicate balance of savory flavors, making it a true delicacy for sushi lovers.

Shirako agodashi is a delightful dish that showcases the delicate flavors of cod milt, served in a savory dashi broth. The silky texture of the shirako contrasts beautifully with the umami-rich broth, creating a comforting and unique experience that is both intriguing and satisfying.

Saba (Japanese mackerel) with crispy nori is a delightful dish that showcases the rich, buttery flavor of the fish, complemented by the satisfying crunch of the nori. The combination creates a beautiful contrast in texture, making each bite a pleasure.

Sardine shiso roll is a delightful fusion of flavors, marrying the rich, umami taste of sardines with the refreshing, herbaceous notes of shiso. The roll presents a vibrant appearance, with the deep green shiso leaves wrapping around the succulent sardine, creating a harmonious balance of textures and tastes that is both satisfying and invigorating.


Sardine.

The 2008 Meursault from Domaine Coche-Dury, hailing from the prestigious Burgundy region, showcases the elegance and complexity that this producer is renowned for. This Chardonnay presents a rich bouquet of ripe pear and toasted hazelnuts, interlaced with a vibrant minerality. With its lush texture and refreshing acidity, it pairs beautifully with roasted chicken or creamy risottos, enhancing the dish’s flavors while offering a delightful contrast.

Each sip reveals layers of flavor, with hints of citrus and a subtle touch of oak, reflecting the meticulous craftsmanship of Coche-Dury. This vintage is particularly noteworthy for its balance and finesse, making it an excellent companion for dishes like lobster with butter sauce or a classic Coq au Vin.


Scallop.

Baby sea eel.

Belt fish.

Ikura and Uni are a delightful pairing that showcases the ocean’s bounty. The briny burst of the ikura, or salmon roe, contrasts beautifully with the creamy, buttery richness of the uni, or sea urchin. Together, they create a luxurious experience that is both visually stunning and decadently flavorful.

Tamago is a delicate Japanese omelet, often served in sushi or as a standalone dish. Its soft, slightly sweet layers are expertly folded, creating a beautiful golden hue that is both visually appealing and satisfying to the palate. The balance of flavor and texture makes it a beloved staple in Japanese cuisine.

Yuzu spritz is a refreshing cocktail that beautifully balances the bright, citrusy notes of yuzu with a crisp effervescence. Its vibrant appearance and zesty flavor make it a delightful choice for warm days, offering a unique twist on the classic spritz that invigorates the palate.

Meet our enthusiastic diner, raising a glass to celebrate the exquisite flavors of the evening.

Chef selfie.

This was one incredible lineup of sushi and wine. Wow!

This was totally my style of omakase. It was mostly nigri, with each piece being both distinct and and memorable, almost sublime. The subtle curing, the deft but restrained use of “toppings”, and the assertive rice are all out of this world. It’s expensive. It’s a bit high maintenance. It’s for purists. But it is incredible!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Delightful Danbi

Aug16

Restaurant: Danbi

Location: 3465 W 6th St Suite 90-100, Los Angeles, CA 90020

Date: April 10, 2025

Cuisine: Korean Fusion

Rating: Really delicious, although slightly sweet (and spicy).

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This sort of Korean modern Izakaya is in that popular mall with the Quarters and many other places.

They say of themselves: We wanted to bring our love for modern Korean food and drinking culture to Koreatown, Los Angeles, the epicenter of Korean food in America. Crafted through the lens of first generation Asian Americans living in the U.S…. we’ve worked hard to bring an idea to life.


That sense of balance extends to the 1,000-square-foot interior, a rain-washed tableau of blond birch, charcoal concrete, and a waterfall marble counter. Floor-to-ceiling windows bathe communal tables and a recessed seating pit in soft daylight, while a carefully curated vinyl soundtrack adds warmth once the sun dips behind the Wilshire corridor. In a neighborhood already crowded with 24-hour diners, boba shops, and old-school bakeries, Danbi has quickly carved out a niche.


The menu at Danbi features a creative selection of Korean-inspired dishes, emphasizing bold flavors and unique combinations. Highlights include innovative takes on traditional ingredients, showcasing a blend of comfort and contemporary culinary techniques.

Wines tonight.

Crudo. Red snapper, pear jam, kosho vinaigrette. Very zingy and spicy sweet. The delicate texture of the fish contrasts beautifully with the vibrant, fruity jam, creating a refreshing dish that dances on the palate.

Scallop pancake: baby scallops, mentaiko sauce. This fabulous pancake is delightfully crispy, though quite fried, offering a rich, savory flavor that beautifully complements the tender scallops within.


A refreshing ice.

Uni bibimbap features the delicate richness of uni paired with marinated Korean raw shrimp, creating a delightful interplay of flavors. The dish is visually stunning, with vibrant colors and textures that invite you to dive in. Each bite offers a luxurious creaminess balanced by the fresh, briny notes of the seafood.

Sliced pork jowl is served with Korean pear and house red sauce. Super tender and flavorful, the rich, unctuous meat contrasts beautifully with the crisp, refreshing sweetness of the pear, creating a delightful balance of textures and flavors.


Various condiments.

Spicy Japchae: Shrimp and scallop infused chili oil create a delightful balance of flavors. Actually moderately spicy (and sweet), this dish offers a satisfying chew from the noodles and a vibrant appearance that entices the palate.

Tartare: Bone marrow, burdock, egg, pine nut. This dish presents a rich, unctuous texture from the bone marrow, complemented by the earthy crunch of burdock and the creamy yolk of the egg. The pine nuts add a delightful nuttiness, creating a harmonious balance of flavors that is both luxurious and intriguing.

Extremely sweet—but delicious.

Perilla cold noodles are a refreshing dish featuring crisp cucumber, savory gim, and crunchy radish. Deliciously chilled, these noodles offer a delightful contrast of textures and a subtle, herbaceous flavor that makes them perfect for warm days.

Zabuton is charcoal-cooked wagyu that is super rich. The tender, marbled meat melts in your mouth, offering a luxurious umami experience that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Garlic rice is a simple yet flavorful dish that elevates any meal with its aromatic essence. The fluffy grains are infused with the rich, savory notes of garlic, creating a delightful contrast in texture and a satisfying depth of flavor that lingers on the palate.


Condiments.

Pork broth rice soup features tender jowl and fresh scallions, creating a comforting and savory dish. The rich, aromatic broth envelops the rice, offering a delightful balance of textures and flavors that warms the soul.

Really delicious, although slightly sweet (and spicy).

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Hmmm Cipppriani

Aug14

Restaurant: Cipriani Beverly Hills

Location: 362 N Camden Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 424-4247

Date: March 31, 2025

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Weirdly old school

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Cipriani Beverly Hills, which welcomed its first guests in late 2023, is the West Coast flagship of the storied Cipriani family, custodians of Venetian hospitality since Giuseppe Cipriani Sr. opened Harry’s Bar on the Grand Canal in 1931. Still family-owned and steered today by fourth-generation brothers Ignazio and Maggio Cipriani, the Beverly Hills address transplants that lineage of understated glamour to 362 North Camden Drive. The menu hews to the group’s enduring culinary philosophy: impeccable ingredients handled with restraint and respect. Signature Cipriani staples—paper-thin beef carpaccio dressed with the original 1950s sauce, feather-light baked tagliolini with ham, and the white-peach Bellini—anchor a roster of seasonal pastas, crudos, and grilled meats that favor clarity of flavor over culinary theatrics.
Cippriani is a branch of or somehow related to the famous Venetian Cafe “Harry’s Bar.” As such, it’s very much Italian with an international 1930s vibe.


The menu at Cipriani Beverly Hills features a refined selection of Italian-inspired dishes, emphasizing fresh ingredients and classic preparations. Highlights include elegant antipasti like Carpaccio and a variety of salads, alongside main courses such as grilled sea scallops and deep-fried Dover sole, reflecting a commitment to high-quality, sophisticated cuisine.

Our wines.

Bread.

Carpaccio “Alla Cipriani”. Simple yet elegant, this dish features thinly sliced raw beef, drizzled with a light dressing that enhances its natural flavors. The tender texture and vibrant presentation make it a delightful starter, showcasing the beauty of high-quality ingredients.

Steak Tartare. Very old school. Good and beefy, but very simple. This classic dish features finely chopped raw beef, often seasoned with capers and onions, creating a rich, tender texture that melts in your mouth.


Crisps for the meat.

Cipriani Tagliardi with Veal Ragu is pretty much old school. This dish features tender, hand-rolled pasta enveloped in a rich, savory veal ragu that evokes a sense of nostalgia. The harmonious blend of flavors and textures makes it a comforting classic that never goes out of style.

Baked White Tagliolini with Praga Ham is sort of an angel hair version of adult mac and cheese. Great flavor, creamy texture, but the portion is small.

Wild Argentinian Shrimp “al Curry” served with yellow rice. Kinda interesting. Good, but slightly weird and British. The shrimp are tender and succulent, enveloped in a fragrant curry that offers a delightful balance of spices, while the yellow rice adds a vibrant touch to the plate.


Plated.

The yellow rice is a vibrant dish that captures the essence of comfort food. Its fluffy grains are infused with spices, offering a warm, aromatic flavor that pairs beautifully with a variety of proteins. The bright color and inviting aroma make it a delightful addition to any meal.

Chutney for the shrimp is a delightful accompaniment that enhances the dish with its vibrant flavors. The tangy and slightly sweet notes of the chutney perfectly complement the succulent shrimp, adding a refreshing contrast to their tender texture.

Veal Milanese. Unfortunately, it was too dry for my taste, lacking the juicy tenderness that makes this classic dish shine. Ideally, it should feature a golden, crispy crust that encases succulent meat, offering a delightful contrast in texture.


Arugula salad helped “moisten it.”

Dessert menu.

Tiramisu. Overall, while very Beverly Hills, Cipriani is a bit too old school to blow me away. Expensive, and good execution, but a bit “bland.” This classic Italian dessert features layers of coffee-soaked ladyfingers and rich mascarpone, offering a creamy texture that contrasts with its subtle sweetness.

A very peculiar style of old school Italian. Not nearly as good as other newcomers to the area like Stella, Marea, or Alba.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Tony Lau at World Seafood

Aug12

Restaurant: World Seafood Restaurant [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 1412 S Garfield Ave, Alhambra, CA 91801. (626) 300-9898

Date: April 6, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese seafood

Rating: Awesome Cantonese

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I haven’t been here since 2020, but Tony Lau dinners always provide a great excuse for Cantonese. Hey, Sunday is a great excuse for Cantonese.

World Seafood Restaurant opened its doors in 2014, taking over a cavernous former banquet space on South Garfield Avenue and quickly asserting itself as one of the San Gabriel Valley’s grand Cantonese dining rooms. The owners—veteran Hong Kong restaurateur Raymond Wong and his Los Angeles–raised daughter Stephanie—set out to recreate the celebratory seafood palaces they remembered from Kowloon: soaring ceilings hung with crystal chandeliers, gleaming marble floors, a forest of live tanks by the entrance, and a sea of round tables capped with white-linen–clad lazy Susans. From the outset, the Wongs have run the restaurant as a family affair; Raymond oversees purchasing at the downtown docks at dawn, while Stephanie manages the front of house with an eye toward bilingual service that welcomes both first-generation regulars and curious Angelenos discovering dim sum for the first time.
The private room at World Seafood.

That early-morning market run is the heart of World Seafood’s culinary philosophy: seafood is served only if it was alive at sunrise. At lunch, the room hums with rolling dim-sum carts ferrying delicate har-gow, crisp-skinned roast pork, and venerated house specials like sea urchin egg custard. Evenings shift to banquet mode, when celebratory multi-course meals showcase wok-fried Dungeness crab with garlic butter, steamed spot prawns scented with huadiao wine, and the signature “Two-Style Lobster,” half stir-fried with ginger-scallion, half tucked into silky noodles. In a neighborhood crowded with storied Cantonese kitchens, World Seafood has carved out a niche as both an everyday dim-sum stop and a favored venue for weddings, Lunar New Year banquets, and 100-day baby parties. Critics frequently mention it in the same breath as regional heavyweights Sea Harbour and Elite, praising its ingredient quality and the rare balance it strikes between polished banquet grandeur and the buzzy, democratic spirit that defines Alhambra’s dining scene.

Peanuts.

Fried oysters. Great. These crispy morsels boast a golden-brown exterior that gives way to a briny, tender interior, perfectly embodying the essence of the sea. Each bite is a delightful contrast of textures, making them a must-try for seafood lovers.

Squab is a tender and flavorful delicacy, often celebrated for its rich, gamey taste and succulent texture. This dish, typically prepared with care, showcases the bird’s dark meat, which is both juicy and satisfying, making it a favorite among culinary enthusiasts.


Really huge crab.

With a gleam of excitement, Yarom proudly showcases the evening’s centerpiece—an exquisite crab, ready to take center stage at this unforgettable feast.

Crab steamed with garlic is plump, delicious, and packed with MSG. The tender meat, infused with aromatic garlic, offers a delightful balance of savory and umami flavors, making each bite a satisfying experience.

Deep fried crab, typhoon style, is a delightful dish that captures the essence of coastal flavors. The crispy exterior gives way to tender, succulent meat, while the dish is often seasoned with a blend of spices that elevate its natural sweetness. It’s a must-try for anyone seeking a taste of the sea with a satisfying crunch.


French style beef. Chewy. Worst dish.

Macau pork — great.

Fish bowl. Delicious, also.

Bok choy.

Vermicelli and crab juice is a dish that packs a punch with its bold flavors, enhanced by LOTS of MSG. The delicate strands of vermicelli soak up the rich, briny essence of the crab, creating a satisfying texture that contrasts beautifully with the umami depth of the seasoning.

Crab fried rice is very good. The dish features tender grains of rice stir-fried to perfection, infused with the sweet, briny flavor of fresh crab. Its vibrant colors and enticing aroma make it a delightful treat for the senses.


Chicken wasn’t bad.

Strawberries.

Sesame soup is pretty good. Its creamy texture and nutty flavor create a comforting dish that warms the soul.


Great evening — except for the MSG — but a lot of fun and solid Cantonese.

Here we find two esteemed diners of a senior flavor, savoring each exquisite moment of their culinary journey, as they indulge in a symphony of flavors and camaraderie.

This was great, if very salty Chinese!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Marea Beverly Hills

Aug10

Restaurant: Marea

Location: 430 N Camden Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. *unknown*

Date: March 6 & May 12, 2025

Cuisine: Coastal Italian

Chef: Sofia Morales

Rating: Fabulous

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Marea opened its doors on North Camden Drive in the summer of 2022, the brainchild of Milan-born restaurateur Luca D’Ambrosi and executive chef Sofia Morales, who met while staging on the Ligurian coast. Determined to translate the pleasure of an unhurried seaside lunch into an urban California setting, the partners took over a long-vacant art-deco storefront and stripped it down to the studs, installing a glass-fronted raw-bar, driftwood banquettes and a ceiling painted a soft Adriatic blue. Ownership remains tightly held—D’Ambrosi and Morales personally greet regulars most nights—and their menu stays loyal to the Italian idea that the sea should taste like itself: Santa Barbara uni folded into warm polenta, line-caught branzino roasted with nothing more than lemon leaves, and a short list of handmade pastas finished tableside in copper pans. The beverage program, run by sommelier Reggie Kim, leans into coastal Vermentino and skin-contact Malvasia while nodding to California with small-lot Santa Ynez whites.

In a neighborhood better known for power-steakhouses and monolithic luxury brands, Marea’s light-on-its-feet elegance has filled a conspicuous void, becoming a magnet for both studio executives who crave something brighter than a rib-eye and local families strolling the Golden Triangle. Critics from the L.A. Times and Eater LA praised its “sunlit Mediterranean confidence,” and the restaurant made the Michelin Guide’s “new discovery” list within its first year. Evening service hums beneath Murano glass pendants, yet the vibe stays relaxed—bare table tops, playlists that wander from Paolo Conte to Khruangbin, and open windows that let in the jasmine-scented canyon breeze. Marea has quickly staked a claim as Beverly Hills’ essential seafood counterpoint: rooted in Italian tradition, fueled by California produce, and animated by a hospitality style that makes even a Tuesday dinner feel like vacation.


Fancy transplant from New York.

Chef Sofia Morales brings a vividly coastal, cross-cultural voice to Marea Beverly Hills, the airy, marigold-toned outpost of the famed New York seafood temple. Born in Ensenada, Mexico, and raised between San Diego and Baja, Morales earned her culinary degree at the CIA in Hyde Park before honing finesse and discipline at Daniel Boulud’s kitchen in Manhattan, staging at Noma in Copenhagen, and later serving as chef de cuisine at Enrique Olvera’s Cosme. At Marea she synthesizes that résumé—French technique, Nordic seasonality, and modern Mexican vibrancy—with the restaurant’s Italian seafood DNA. Her crudo of kampachi with yuzu kosho aguachile and bronze-dye spaghetti alla chitarra tossed in a uni-jalapeño bottarga emulsion have quickly become signatures, earning her a 2023 James Beard “Rising Star” nomination and a spot on the Los Angeles Times’ “Chef Power List.”

Morales’s menu philosophy is rooted in “borderless waters”—treating the Pacific and Mediterranean as one continuous pantry while respecting the ecological realities of both. She sources hook-and-line local rockfish from Santa Barbara, partners with Baja oyster farms, and finishes plates with Ligurian olive oil or house-fermented chile vinegar depending on what each ingredient “asks for.” Influenced by her grandmother’s Baja surf-side grilling, René Redzepi’s micro-seasonal mindset, and the refined simplicity of Italian cucina di mare, she aims for “immaculate product, precise restraint, and one unexpected note that makes you look up from the table.” The result is a menu that feels both sun-bleached and metropolitan—a confident through-line that has helped the Beverly Hills location carve its own identity while honoring Marea’s original ethos of elegant, seafood-first hospitality.


The menu at Marea features a refined selection of seafood dishes, emphasizing fresh ingredients and Italian culinary techniques. Highlights include caviar, oysters, and a variety of crudi, as well as thoughtfully crafted antipasti that celebrate the flavors of the sea.


Marea also has an awesome private room, which we visited in May. 
The wines in March 2025.

A dozen kumamoto oysters served with marea mignonette & marea cocktail sauce. These briny gems are known for their sweet, buttery flavor and creamy texture, making them a delightful treat for any seafood lover.

Scampi on “Scampi”: langoustine tartare, crispy rice, garlic, lemon. This dish presents a delightful contrast of textures, with the tender tartare complemented by the crunch of the rice. Ricci: sea urchin, lardo, crostini. The richness of the lardo enhances the briny sea urchin, creating a luxurious mouthfeel. Sardina: sardine, tomato, eggplant, anchovy, pine nut toast. The combination of savory sardines and sweet tomato on a crunchy toast is both comforting and sophisticated. These were all great.

Bread.

CANNOLICCHIO features razor clam, manila clam, prosciutto, and fennel. The dish showcases a delightful balance of briny sweetness from the clams, complemented by the savory richness of prosciutto and the aromatic freshness of fennel, creating a harmonious blend of textures and flavors.

 

Scampi: Pacific langoustine, cucumber, chive. This dish showcases the delicate sweetness of the langoustine, complemented by the refreshing crunch of cucumber and the subtle onion notes of chive, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures.

SGOMBRO: mackerel, tomato, Castelvetrano, caper. This dish presents a delightful balance of rich, oily mackerel paired with the bright acidity of tomato and the briny pop of capers, all enhanced by the sweet, buttery notes of Castelvetrano olives. The vibrant colors and fresh ingredients make it as visually appealing as it is flavorful.

A full set of crudos: Scorfano — Rockfish, calamansi, pistachio. Spigola — Bass, almond crema, green almond, caviar. Ricciola — Baja kanpachi, strawberry, tarragon, fennel. Sgombro — Smoked mackerel, blackberry, lardo. Tonno — Yellowfin tuna, oyster crema, artichoke. Scampi — Pacific langoustine, cucumber, chive. Each dish presents a vibrant array of colors and textures, showcasing the freshness of the seafood paired with bright, complementary flavors that dance on the palate.

BRANZINO: sea bass tartare, pistachio, Calabrian chile, radish, chive. This dish presents a delightful combination of flavors and textures, with the buttery fish complemented by the crunch of pistachios and the heat of chiles. The vibrant colors and fresh ingredients make it as visually appealing as it is delicious.

Fusilli: red wine-braised octopus and bone marrow. Lots of deep flavor and good chew, with the octopus offering a tender yet slightly firm bite, complemented by the rich, unctuous marrow that adds a luxurious depth to each twirl of pasta.

MARUBINI: ricotta-filled ravioli with cacio e pepe, tomato, basil, and pine nuts. The delicate pasta envelopes a creamy filling, while the cacio e pepe offers a delightful peppery kick. Nice, but not as amazing as the others.

RISOTTO AI FUNGHI features wild mushrooms, taleggio, and parmigiano. This amazing risotto boasts a creamy texture, with earthy mushroom flavors beautifully complemented by the rich, nutty cheese. A comforting dish that warms the soul.

Risotto alla Primavera — Spring vegetables, pancetta, parmigiano. This vibrant dish showcases a creamy texture, with the fresh crunch of seasonal vegetables beautifully complementing the savory richness of the pancetta and the nutty depth of the parmigiano. Each bite is a celebration of spring’s bounty.

CASARECCE: jumbo lump crab, sea urchin, basil, Calabrian chile. The nice texture is complemented by the rich sweetness of the crab and the briny depth of the sea urchin, creating a delightful harmony of flavors. The dish presents beautifully, with vibrant colors that invite you to indulge.

PAPPARDELLE: Dungeness crab, scallion, tarragon. Really great crab pasta, tons of buttery flavor. The pappardelle is perfectly al dente, allowing the rich, sweet crab to shine through, while the scallion and tarragon add a fresh, aromatic lift.

Mafaldine — Shrimp, garlic, lemon, parsley, mollica. This dish features delicate, ribbon-like pasta that beautifully captures the vibrant flavors of the shrimp and the brightness of the lemon. The combination of textures—from the tender shrimp to the crispy mollica—creates a delightful contrast that elevates each bite.

Spaghetti features Manila clam, baby leek, lemon, and parsley. This dish offers a delightful balance of briny sweetness from the clams, vibrant freshness from the leeks and parsley, and a zesty brightness from the lemon, all harmonizing beautifully with the al dente pasta.

Orecchiette — Duck leg ragu, brown butter, pea shoot. This dish features tender, ear-shaped pasta that perfectly cradles the rich, savory ragu, while the brown butter adds a nutty depth and the pea shoots offer a fresh, vibrant contrast. The combination is both comforting and sophisticated, showcasing the beauty of Italian cuisine.

ANATRA features pan-roasted duck breast accompanied by parsnip, endive, orange, and duck jus. The sweet jus beautifully complements the rich, tender duck, while the parsnip adds a creamy texture and the endive provides a crisp contrast. A harmonious balance of flavors and textures makes this dish truly memorable.

BISTECCA: grilled wagyu strip loin, bone marrow panzanella, braised lettuce, shallot. Very solid steak. The wagyu is beautifully marbled, delivering a rich, buttery flavor, while the bone marrow panzanella adds a delightful creaminess and texture contrast.

Tomahawk — Grilled 40 oz prime ribeye, little gem, bone marrow panzanella. This impressive cut boasts a rich, juicy flavor with a perfect char, while the panzanella adds a refreshing crunch that beautifully complements the meat’s tenderness.

Tunahawk — Bigeye tuna loin, cauliflower salsa rossa, choice of one side. This dish showcases a beautifully seared tuna, its rich, buttery texture perfectly complemented by the vibrant, tangy salsa rossa. The combination is not only visually striking but also a delightful balance of flavors that excites the palate.

Sogliola — Pan-seared wild Dover sole, choice of one side, limone. This dish showcases the delicate, flaky texture of the fish, perfectly complemented by the bright acidity of lemon. The simplicity of the preparation allows the natural flavors to shine through, making it a delightful choice for seafood lovers.

CAVOLFIORE: flowering cauliflower, chile, bottarga. This dish boasts a delightful balance of flavors, with the heat of the chile complementing the umami richness of the bottarga. The texture is both tender and slightly crisp, making it a satisfying experience.

Topinambur — Sunchoke, mostarda, spinach. This dish beautifully balances the earthy sweetness of the sunchoke with the tangy brightness of the mostarda, while the spinach adds a vibrant green touch. The textures are delightful, with the sunchoke offering a tender bite that complements the smoothness of the mostarda.

Carciofi alla Giudia — Artichoke, anchovy, oregano, parsley, mint. This Roman classic features artichokes that are fried to a golden crisp, offering a delightful contrast between the tender heart and the crunchy exterior. The vibrant herbs and anchovy add depth, making each bite a harmonious blend of flavors that celebrates the essence of Italian cuisine.

Asparago — Grilled asparagus, pistachio, meyer lemon. The tender, charred spears offer a delightful contrast to the crunchy pistachios, while the meyer lemon adds a bright, citrusy zing that elevates the dish beautifully.

Patate — Potato, mimolette, caper. This dish features tender, creamy potatoes that beautifully complement the nutty richness of mimolette, while the capers add a delightful briny contrast. The combination creates a harmonious balance of flavors and textures that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Piselli a Shiocco — Snap pea, chile, bottarga, mint. This vibrant dish showcases the sweetness of fresh snap peas, perfectly complemented by the umami of bottarga and a hint of heat from the chile. The bright mint adds a refreshing finish, making it a delightful balance of flavors and textures.


Desert menu.

Coffee martini is a delightful blend of rich espresso and smooth vodka, creating a perfect balance of bold coffee flavor and a hint of sweetness. Its velvety texture and elegant presentation make it an ideal choice for those seeking a sophisticated pick-me-up.

Presented with an artful flourish, the dish known as Cheese Tasting Plate captivates the senses with its harmonious array of textures and flavors. A delicate pale yellow cheese, its creamy consistency invitingly soft, sits alongside a vibrant orange-hued cheddar, its sharpness balanced by a hint of sweetness. Golden honeycomb glistens like sunlit jewels, its floral notes wafting delicately through the air, complemented by the earthy crunch of walnuts that ground the composition. Tiny green grapes burst with refreshing juiciness, while a small silver cup cradles a velvety, well-aged cheese spread adorned with edible flowers, offering a subtle umami depth that lingers on the palate. Each element, a testament to culinary artistry, invites exploration and indulgence in a symphony of flavors.

BOMBOLONI: doughnuts filled with lemon ricotta cream, dusted with cinnamon sugar, and drizzled with chocolate fudge. These delightful treats boast a light, airy texture that contrasts beautifully with the creamy filling, while the cinnamon sugar adds a warm sweetness, making them utterly irresistible.

TIRAMISU: mascarpone mousse, espresso sabayon, chocolate crumble, mascarpone gelato. Not conventional, but very good. This dessert offers a delightful contrast of creamy textures and rich coffee flavors, all beautifully layered and finished with a hint of chocolate crunch.

NOCE DI COCCO features a delightful combination of meringue, coconut, passion fruit, pineapple, and rum. This dessert offers a light, airy texture with tropical flavors that dance on the palate, creating a vibrant and refreshing experience.

Gelato is a delightful Italian frozen dessert that captivates with its creamy texture and intense flavors. Unlike traditional ice cream, gelato is churned at a slower speed, resulting in a denser, silkier consistency that allows the vibrant flavors to shine. Each scoop is a luscious experience, often showcasing seasonal ingredients that reflect the region’s bounty.


Expensive, but some really great food. Unusual heavy seafood focus, too.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

 


Marea has an awesome private room.

The restaurant’s understated elegance is reflected in the meticulous arrangement of crystal wine glasses, their clarity catching the soft ambient light, setting a refined yet inviting tone for an unforgettable culinary journey.

The menu at Marea showcases an exquisite selection of seafood dishes, emphasizing fresh ingredients and refined Italian flavors. Highlights include caviar, oysters, and a variety of antipasti, alongside beautifully crafted pasta and crudo preparations that celebrate the ocean’s bounty.


The menu.

The Pierre Peters Champagne, a stunning Blanc de Blancs from the Côte de Blancs region, showcases the elegance of the 2016 vintage. With its bright acidity and fine bubbles, this wine offers a bouquet of citrus and white flowers, complemented by a hint of brioche. Ideal for pairing with oysters or a delicate seafood dish, it elevates any celebration with its finesse and complexity.

The Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Premier Cru from the 2017 vintage presents a rich yet refreshing profile, typical of the Burgundy region. This Chardonnay boasts notes of ripe stone fruits, hazelnuts, and a subtle minerality, making it a versatile companion for roasted chicken or creamy pasta dishes. Its balanced structure invites you to savor each sip, revealing layers of flavor with every taste.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin Premier Cru “En Remilly” from Jean-Claude Ramonet offers a delightful expression of its terroir, showcasing bright acidity and notes of citrus and green apple, complemented by a mineral backbone. This elegant white Burgundy pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a creamy risotto.

The 2010 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Bonneau du Martray is a magnificent white wine that reveals layers of complexity, with rich flavors of ripe pear, toasted almonds, and a hint of oak. Its full-bodied structure and vibrant acidity make it an exceptional companion for rich dishes like lobster thermidor or roasted chicken with herbs.

From the esteemed Côte-Rôtie region, the 1970 La Moulin offers a stunning expression of Syrah, showcasing dark fruit, black olive, and subtle smoky notes. Its age has imparted a velvety texture and complex layers of dried herbs and leather, making it a perfect companion for roasted lamb or a hearty beef stew.

The second 1970 La Moulin bottle presents an intriguing balance of fruit and earthiness, with hints of graphite and wildflowers emerging. The tannins are beautifully integrated, providing a luxurious mouthfeel that complements rich dishes like duck confit or grilled game meats, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The 1970 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline is a stunning expression of the Northern Rhône, showcasing the elegance of Syrah. With its deep garnet hue, it unfolds aromas of dark fruits, smoked meat, and a hint of violet. On the palate, it offers a harmonious balance of ripe tannins and vibrant acidity, making it an exceptional pairing for grilled lamb or a rich, herb-crusted beef dish.

The 1971 vintage of Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline presents a slightly more mature profile, revealing complex layers of dried cherries, black olives, and a touch of aged leather. Its silky texture and refined structure allow it to shine alongside roasted duck or a wild mushroom risotto, enhancing the earthy flavors of the dish.

The 1974 Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin is a stunning example of Northern Rhône Syrah, showcasing deep, complex aromas of dark fruits, smoke, and savory herbs. Its velvety tannins and vibrant acidity make it a perfect companion to rich lamb dishes or a charcuterie board featuring aged cheeses.

The 1977 vintage of Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin offers a remarkable bouquet of dried cherries, leather, and earthy undertones, reflecting the elegance of its terroir. This wine’s silky texture and lingering finish pair effortlessly with grilled meats or a hearty beef stew, enhancing the meal’s depth.

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin presents a fascinating evolution, revealing notes of blackcurrant, graphite, and subtle spice. Its refined structure and balanced acidity make it an ideal match for game meats or mushroom risotto,

The 1971 Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal is a breathtaking expression of the Northern Rhône, showcasing deep, complex aromas of dark fruit, leather, and subtle spice. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity harmonize beautifully, making it a perfect companion for a rich beef stew or grilled lamb.

The 1980 vintage of Côte-Rôtie, also from E. Guigal, presents a more evolved profile, with notes of dried herbs, plum, and a hint of smokiness. The elegance and depth of flavor make it an exquisite pairing with game dishes or a charcuterie board featuring aged cheeses.

The 1981 Côte-Rôtie continues the legacy of the previous bottles, offering luscious dark cherry, earthy undertones, and a touch of oak. This vintage is well-structured and pairs wonderfully with hearty dishes like coq au vin

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline is a stunning expression of the Rhône Valley, showcasing a blend of Syrah and Viognier. This vintage reveals deep, complex aromas of blackberries, smoked meat, and hints of violets, complemented by a silky texture that enhances its elegance. It pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a rich duck confit, highlighting the wine’s earthy undertones.

The 1981 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline offers a slightly more mature profile, with savory notes of truffle and leather emerging alongside dark fruit and spice. This vintage displays a beautifully integrated tannin structure, providing a long, lingering finish. Ideal for pairing with hearty stews or aged cheeses, it brings out the wine’s complexity and depth.

<pTogether, these Côte-Rôties from La Mouline epitomize the artistry of the

The 1981 La Mouline from Côte-Rôtie is a stunning example of Syrah’s elegance, showcasing deep, dark fruit flavors intertwined with hints of smoke and leather. With its velvety tannins and a long, complex finish, this wine pairs beautifully with rich, slow-cooked lamb dishes or a decadent truffle risotto.

The 1983 La Mouline, also from Côte-Rôtie, offers a more robust profile, featuring concentrated notes of blackberries, plums, and a touch of pepper. Its powerful structure and vibrant acidity make it an excellent companion to grilled meats or hearty stews, highlighting its aging potential and complexity.

The 1981 and 1983 vintages reflect the exceptional terroir of Côte-Rôtie, presenting a delightful exploration of Syrah’s versatility, from the graceful finesse of the 198

The 1984 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline showcases the legendary character of this Northern Rhône region. With its deep garnet hue, it presents an enticing bouquet of blackberries, violets, and a hint of smoked meat. The wine’s full-bodied structure is complemented by velvety tannins and a long finish, making it an exquisite pairing for grilled lamb or a rich coq au vin.

The 1987 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline offers a captivating profile, marked by ripe red fruits, spice, and a touch of garrigue. This vintage reveals a delightful balance of acidity and tannin, providing a silky mouthfeel. Its complexity makes it an excellent companion to dishes like duck confit or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the meal’s depth.

The 1984 La Mouline from E. Guigal, hailing from the renowned Côte-Rôtie region of France, showcases an elegant expression of Syrah blended with a touch of Viognier. This vintage is characterized by its complex aromas of dark fruits, black olive, and floral notes, underpinned by a silky texture and refined tannins. It pairs beautifully with rich dishes like coq au vin or a classic beef bourguignon.

The 1987 La Mouline, also from E. Guigal, offers a slightly warmer profile with ripe blackberry and plum flavors complemented by hints of spice and smoke. This vintage shows impressive balance and depth, making it an ideal companion to grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the dish’s earthy flavors.

The 1980 La Landonne, another gem from E. Guigal, presents

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Landonne offers a complex tapestry of aromas, with notes of dark berries, smoked meats, and a hint of black pepper. This vintage showcases the elegance and depth of the Rhône Valley, with a velvety texture and a long, satisfying finish. Ideal for pairing with grilled lamb or rich stews, it embodies the essence of classic Syrah.

The 1984 Côte-Rôtie, also from La Landonne, presents a more mature profile, with tertiary notes of leather, tobacco, and dried herbs complementing the residual fruit. The tannins have softened beautifully, allowing for a harmonious balance between acidity and richness. This vintage pairs wonderfully with aged cheeses or a hearty beef bourguignon, making it a timeless choice for discerning palates.

The 1980 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal showcases the elegance of the Northern Rhône, revealing rich notes of dark berries, leather, and a hint of tar. Its age has imparted a smoky complexity, making it a perfect companion for grilled lamb or a rich duck confit, enhancing its savory character.

The 1984 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie is a stunning expression of terroir, offering aromas of black cherry, violets, and a touch of spice. This vintage demonstrates a well-integrated acidity and soft tannins, ideal for pairing with hearty dishes like beef bourguignon or wild mushroom risotto, which complement its intricate layers.

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, with its robust structure and vibrant fruit, presents an enticing bouquet of dark plums, pepper, and earthiness.

The 1984 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie showcases an elegant balance between rich dark fruit and savory notes. Hailing from the Northern Rhône, this Syrah expresses complexity through layers of blackcurrant, leather, and hints of smokiness. Ideal for pairing with grilled lamb or robust stews, it offers a splendid dining experience.

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie presents a more mature profile, with secondary aromas of dried herbs and earthy undertones complementing its rich, ripe plum flavors. This vintage is a testament to the terroir of the Rhône, beautifully reflecting its character. Best enjoyed alongside rich game dishes or aged cheeses, it promises a harmonious match.

The 1986 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie features a vibrant acidity that accentuates its dark fruit core and peppery finish. This vintage reveals nuances of spice and

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, produced by the esteemed E. Guigal in the northern Rhône Valley, showcases a remarkable vintage with its deep garnet hue and complex aromas of dark fruits, smoke, and spices. This Syrah-based wine is full-bodied and elegantly structured, offering velvety tannins and a long, savory finish, making it an exquisite pairing for rich dishes like braised lamb or beef Wellington.

The 1986 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, also crafted by E. Guigal, presents a slightly more mature profile, revealing layers of black cherry, leather, and earthy notes. This vintage balances power and finesse, with a silky texture that complements its ripe tannins. Ideal for pairing with hearty game dishes or aged cheeses, it embodies the artistry of Côte-Rôtie wines.


All the La La’s!

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Late-night Baroo

Aug08

Restaurant: Baroo

Location: 905 E 2nd St #110, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 221-7299

Date: March 4, 2025

Cuisine: Modern Korean

Chef: Kwang Uh

Rating: Very unique and tasty

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Baroo first appeared in 2015 as a minuscule, almost monastic strip-mall café in East Hollywood, where Korean-born, Noma-trained chef Kwang Uh mesmerized diners with grain bowls, house-cultured vinegars, and kimchi that tasted like nothing else in Los Angeles. When that original location closed in 2018, its cult following never stopped talking about it. In late 2022 the chef returned—this time with co-owner and fellow chef Mina Park—to open a more polished, reservation-only incarnation at 905 E 2nd St #110 in the Arts District. The reborn Baroo keeps its staff intentionally lean and its counter seating limited, sustaining the intimate dialogue between cook and guest that made the first chapter so magnetic.

Fermentation remains the restaurant’s heartbeat, but the new Baroo stretches further, running a seasonal tasting menu that filters Korean flavors through Californian produce and European technique. A plate might pair koji-aged spot prawn with a delicate chrysanthemum broth, or present a barley-risotto riff enriched with doenjang and shaved truffles; an almost sake-dry makgeolli or a low-intervention Rhone white might sit alongside. The room mirrors the food: spare yet warm, with blond wood, softly rounded plaster walls, and a U-shaped counter that frames the open kitchen like a stage set. In a neighborhood already thick with destination dining, Baroo stands out as both laboratory and temple, reaffirming Los Angeles’ status as one of the most adventurous fermentation capitals in the country.

With its warm brick façade and sleek glass entry, the restaurant exudes a modern yet inviting charm, inviting diners to indulge in a sophisticated culinary journey amidst thoughtfully curated decor that balances industrial elements with cozy accents.

Chef Kwang Uh, the quietly cerebral force behind baroo in DTLA’s ROW complex, has followed an unconventional path to one of the city’s most talked-about kitchens. Born in Seoul and raised partly in Southern California, he began cooking professionally after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, but it was a string of formative stages that shaped his voice: the meticulous kaiseki precision of L.A.’s Urasawa, the ingredient-driven ethos of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and—most decisively—a year inside the Nordic Food Lab and fermentation studio of Noma in Copenhagen. Uh later decamped to the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy, and spent months cooking in Korean Buddhist temples, absorbing the ascetic, zero-waste discipline of temple cuisine. Those experiences fused into the original Baroo, a bare-bones Hollywood strip-mall deli that landed on Bon Appétit’s “Hot 10,” earned a James Beard Rising Star semifinalist nod, and became a cult shrine for chefs before shuttering in 2018. The 2023 rebirth as lowercase baroo, now in partnership with Mina Park, retains the spirit of the original but adds the polish of an open-kitchen tasting-counter.

Uh’s food defies genre labels yet feels deeply Korean at its core: rice milled in-house and seasoned with nuruk, sauces built on long-aged jang, and a restless roster of kimchi, garums, kombuchas, and koji that thread through a seasonal eight-course menu. One course might pair Santa Barbara uni with makgeolli-lees sabayon and puffed black rice; another might reinterpret jjajangmyeon as hand-pulled noodles glazed in black-bean koji and chrysanthemum oil. Influence comes from everywhere—Nordic preservation, Californian produce, Italian pasta craft—but is filtered through the Buddhist notion of “Baroo,” a monk’s simple wooden bowl that symbolizes sufficiency and mindfulness. That philosophy guides the restaurant: respect for living microbes, near-total utilization of each vegetable or fish, and a belief that time, patience, and curiosity are the most potent seasonings. Accolades continue to follow—glowing LA Times reviews, inclusion on the New York Times “America’s Best Restaurants” list—but Uh remains focused on the quiet alchemy happening in the jars that line the back wall, letting fermentation, not fame, chart the next evolution of baroo’s ever-changing menu.

The restaurant’s sleek concrete walls and warm wooden accents create an inviting atmosphere, while the soft glow of pendant lights and carefully curated shelves of artisanal goods set the stage for a culinary journey that feels both intimate and refined.

The menu at Baroo showcases a creative fusion of Korean flavors and contemporary culinary techniques, featuring dishes like celeriac puree with black sesame and lobster tuigim. It emphasizes innovative pairings, such as soy-braised black cod and unique preparations like pork collar ssam, highlighting both traditional and modern influences.

Pig ear – like amuse.

Another amuse of tomato, basil, and toast. Very interesting flavors.

태 — 胎 — TAE is a bridge over field and paddy, featuring a celeriac puree, jokpyeon, and black sesame sool bbang. The dish beautifully balances earthy flavors with a creamy texture, while the jokpyeon adds a delightful chewiness that complements the smooth puree.

양 — 養 — YANG is a lotus flower in the mud, featuring jaetbangeo, achobak, jaepi oil, sangchu, and gim bugak. This dish beautifully contrasts the delicate, earthy flavors of the lotus with the crispness of the vegetables, creating a harmonious balance that is both visually striking and texturally intriguing.

생 — 生 — SAENG life begins with lobster tuigim (deep-fried in parae seaweed batter) and lobster doenjang. The crispy, golden exterior of the lobster tuigim contrasts beautifully with the tender, succulent meat inside, while the rich, savory lobster doenjang adds a depth of flavor that elevates the dish. Each bite is a delightful harmony of textures and tastes, celebrating the ocean’s bounty.

 

Gratuitous zooms.

대 — 帶 — DAE is sometimes nomadic soy-braised black cod, a dish that beautifully marries rich umami flavors with a tender, flaky texture. The deep, glossy glaze adds an inviting sheen, making it as visually appealing as it is delicious.

Erick in the house.

왕 — 旺 — WANG remains in between peads & barnett pork collar ssam and brandt beef short rib ssam. The pork collar ssam offers a tender, juicy bite with a rich, savory flavor, while the beef short rib ssam is deeply flavorful, boasting a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Both dishes showcase a delightful balance of freshness and umami, making them a must-try.

Close up of the meat duo.

Veggies.

병 — 病 — BYUNG finally realizes? San namul bab, kkaetnip jangajji, gamtae bugak. This dish showcases a delightful balance of textures, with the crispness of the pickled vegetables complementing the tender rice, while the flavors burst with freshness and a hint of umami. Each component harmonizes beautifully, reflecting the essence of Korean cuisine.

절 — 絶 — JEOL is a delightful dessert that combines banana, kiwi, and hazelnut in a refreshing bingsoo. The vibrant colors and textures create a visually appealing dish, while the sweet and nutty flavors harmonize beautifully, making it a perfect treat for warm days.

This was a parade of really interesting flavors. Very subtle, unique, and delicious.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Kato 2025 part 1

Aug06

Restaurant: Kato  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 777 S Alameda St #114, Los Angeles, CA 90021. (424) 535-3041

Date: February 27, 2025

Cuisine: Taiwanese

Chef: Jonathan Yao

Rating: Amazing, although pricey

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Kato opened in 2016 as a tiny, 26-seat spot hidden in a Sawtelle strip mall, the passion project of Taiwanese-American chef Jonathan Yao, who was just 25 at the time. Working with virtually no décor budget and a two-person kitchen crew, Yao spun memories of his mother’s cooking and stages at Benu and Cafe Boulud into an elegant, seafood-leaning tasting menu. Word spread quickly; a Michelin star arrived in 2019, Bill Addison named it the Los Angeles Times Restaurant of the Year, and lines formed in a parking lot better known for boba shops. In 2022, Yao and managing partner–wine director Ryan Bailey moved Kato to a dramatic, 80-seat space in ROW DTLA, giving the restaurant the stage its reputation had already earned.

The cooking remains rooted in Taiwanese flavors—pineapple buns transformed into foie gras sandwiches, Hokkaido scallops dressed with housemade fish garum, shaved ice flavored with oolong and longan—yet it now unfolds across a longer, more polished procession that highlights Southern California’s produce and Pacific seafood. Yao’s philosophy is to make the familiar abstractly beautiful but still crave-worthy: umami-rich broths clarified until they sparkle, pork floss reborn as a delicate tuile, fermented condiments used the way classic French kitchens deploy butter. Bailey’s adventurous, largely grower-champagne wine program and a thoughtful zero-proof pairing underscore the restaurant’s fine-dining aspirations while keeping the mood distinctly Angeleno.

Design firm MNDPC framed the new dining room in blond wood, ribbed glass, and matte concrete that echo Taiwanese tea houses as much as DTLA’s industrial bones. An open kitchen anchors the room, and low, warm lighting recaptures the intimacy of the original storefront even as the service has become choreographed and almost seamless. Today, Kato occupies a rare niche in the city’s food scene: a Michelin-starred, Asian-American tasting counter that feels neither fussy nor pretentious, championing immigrant flavors with the ambition of a grand restaurant. For many Angelenos, it is proof that the city’s most exciting fine dining can speak with a distinctly local—and decidedly Taiwanese—accent.
Chef Jonathan Yao was raised in the Taiwanese-American enclave of the San Gabriel Valley, where weekend trips to Arcadia dim-sum parlors and home-cooked Hakka stews quietly formed his culinary DNA. After a short detour studying biology at UC Irvine, he plunged into professional kitchens, staging at Ari Taymor’s Alma in L.A., Corey Lee’s Benu in San Francisco, and even spending time at Noma in Copenhagen to absorb the rigor of modern Nordic technique. Those experiences—equal parts classical precision and boundary-pushing curiosity—set the foundation for Kato, the 28-seat tasting-menu counter he opened in a Sawtelle strip mall in 2016 and later relocated to a far sleeker space at ROW DTLA.

Kato’s cooking is Yao’s very personal dialogue between Taiwan and California. Dishes like aged kanpachi draped in fermented kumquat, silken mapo-tofu dumplings, or rice steamed in chicken fat and finished with shaved bottarga marry the brightness of market produce with the comforting flavors of his mother’s pantry. The stripped-down plating hides obsessive technique—whole fish are dry-aged for umami, sauces are clarified for translucence, and desserts (think winter-melon granita over almond tofu) nod to Taiwanese night-market sweets while maintaining the lightness Angelenos expect. Critics have noticed: Food & Wine named Yao a Best New Chef in 2018; the James Beard Foundation has shortlisted him more than once; and Michelin awarded Kato its first star in 2019 before elevating the restaurant to two stars in the 2023 California guide, making Yao one of the youngest two-star chefs in the country.

Underlying the menu is a philosophy of “memory filtered through seasonality.” Yao begins every new dish by asking what childhood flavor or Taiwanese street snack he wants the guest to recall, then rebuilds it with the ingredients Southern California is giving him that week—Baja uni instead of Typhoon-shelter crab, Harry’s Berries strawberries in place of lychee, local koji to ferment kohlrabi. The goal, he says, is neither nostalgia nor novelty but resonance: food that feels simultaneously intimate and surprising, executed with the restraint, clarity, and quiet confidence that now define Kato’s signature style.

 

 

The 2008 Piper-Heidsieck Rare is a stunning example of a vintage Champagne, showcasing the elegance and complexity that this house is known for. With its fine bubbles and golden hue, it offers aromas of toasted brioche and ripe stone fruits, complemented by a refreshing acidity. Ideal as an aperitif or paired with seafood, this wine elevates any occasion.

Keller’s 2017 Riesling Trocken from Rheinhessen presents a beautifully balanced profile, marked by notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a hint of minerality. This dry Riesling has a vibrant acidity that makes it incredibly food-friendly, perfect for pairing with Asian cuisine or fresh salads, enhancing the dish’s flavors while providing a crisp finish.

The 2006 Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas from Domaine Michelot is a classic representation of Burgundy, embodying the

Run Bing: Red Fife wheat, trout, sudachi. This dish presents a beautiful interplay of textures, with the nutty crunch of the Red Fife wheat complementing the delicate, buttery flakes of the trout. The bright acidity of the sudachi cuts through the richness, adding a refreshing citrus note that lingers on the palate, enhancing the overall experience with its vibrant aroma and visual appeal.

Duo Jiao Yu: Tuna coriander, chili. This dish elegantly combines the tender, buttery texture of the tuna with the vibrant, aromatic punch of coriander and the subtle heat from the chili. The colors dance on the plate, with the rich pink of the fish contrasting beautifully against the fresh green of the herbs, while the fragrance of the spices tantalizes the senses, inviting you to indulge in a delightful culinary experience.

Ji Juan: Scallop, ginger, baby leek. The delicate sweetness of the scallop is beautifully elevated by the zing of ginger, while the tender baby leek adds a subtle earthiness to the dish. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of flavors, with the scallop’s silky texture melting effortlessly on the palate, complemented by the fragrant aroma that wafts through the air, inviting you to savor every moment.

Youitao. Sea urchin, ham, caviar. The delicate sweetness of the sea urchin is beautifully complemented by the savory notes of the ham, while the caviar adds a luxurious brininess. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of rich umami and oceanic freshness, with the vibrant colors inviting an indulgent experience that is as delightful to the eyes as it is to the palate.

Yudu Geng: Custard, caviar, fish maw. The rich, velvety custard serves as a luxurious base, perfectly offset by the briny burst of caviar, while the fish maw adds a subtle, almost ethereal texture that elevates the dish. The interplay of flavors unfolds delicately on the palate, revealing a harmonious balance of sea and cream, with a hint of umami lingering in the air.

Jinsha. Scallop, salted yolk, squash. The delicate sweetness of the scallop harmonizes beautifully with the rich, umami notes of the salted yolk, while the squash adds a subtly earthy undertone. Each bite is a symphony of textures, with the tender scallop yielding to a creamy finish, all beautifully presented in a vibrant palette that entices the senses before the first taste.

Zhou. Abalone, sea urchin, sticky rice. This dish presents a harmonious interplay of flavors, where the tender abalone offers a subtle brininess, perfectly complemented by the creamy richness of the sea urchin. Each bite of the sticky rice introduces a comforting texture, allowing the delicate marine notes to linger on the palate, while the vibrant colors create an enticing visual allure that is equally captivating.


Suancai Yu. Soured Vegetables, Preserved Peppers.

Anchun. Quail, mushroom, black pepper. This dish presents a harmonious blend of earthy mushrooms and the delicate, tender quail, seasoned with a precise touch of black pepper that elevates its rich flavors. The quail’s golden-brown skin glistens, inviting you to savor its juicy succulence, while the umami notes of the mushrooms create a beautifully layered experience, accented by the warm, aromatic scent that lingers in the air.

The dish, crispy quail legs, presents an alluring amber hue, glistening with a lacquered finish that catches the light like a jewel. As it arrives at the table, a subtle, smoky aroma wafts through the air, inviting the senses to explore further. The texture is a delightful contrast; the outer skin crackles with each bite, yielding effortlessly to reveal tender, succulent meat infused with hints of sweet soy and aromatic spices. Each mouthful offers a symphony of flavors, where the rich umami is perfectly balanced by a whisper of citrus zest, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for another taste.

Bao. A delightful steamed bun filled with tender, savory pork and garnished with fresh cilantro. The fluffy, pillowy texture of the bao envelops the rich filling, creating a harmonious contrast with each bite. The subtle sweetness of the bun complements the umami depth of the pork, while the cilantro adds a refreshing brightness that elevates the overall experience. The aroma wafts enticingly, inviting you to savor the intricate layers of flavor and texture in this exquisite dish.

Hongshao Niu: Short rib, tendon, black garlic. The tender short rib melts in your mouth, while the rich tendon adds a luxurious silkiness to each bite. The deep umami of black garlic intertwines beautifully, creating a harmonious balance of savory notes that linger on the palate. Visually stunning, the dish presents a glossy sheen, inviting you to delve into its complex layers of flavor and texture.


Ba Le. Guava, tea, salted plum.

 

Baixiang Guo. Passion fruit, chocolate, buttermilk. This dish presents a delightful interplay of tart and sweet, where the vibrant acidity of the passion fruit harmonizes beautifully with the deep, rich notes of chocolate. The buttermilk adds a creamy, tangy undertone that rounds out the experience, while the visual contrast of the golden fruit against the dark chocolate creates an enticing allure. Each bite is a textural journey, with a luscious mouthfeel that lingers long after the last taste.

Liusha Bao. Cream puff, salted egg, brown sugar. The delicate cream puff offers a sumptuous contrast of textures, with its crisp exterior giving way to a luscious, velvety filling that harmonizes the rich, savory notes of salted egg with the deep, caramelized sweetness of brown sugar. Each bite is a delightful interplay of flavors, evoking a comforting warmth that lingers on the palate, while the golden hue and glossy sheen entice the senses, inviting you to indulge in this exquisite treat.

The 2005 Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas from Domaine Michel Gros showcases the elegance of Burgundy. This Pinot Noir offers a complex bouquet of red fruit, earthiness, and subtle spice, reflecting the region’s terroir. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity make it an exquisite pairing with duck confit or truffle risotto.

This wine, hailing from the prestigious Vosne-Romanée region, embodies the classic characteristics of its vintage. The depth of flavor and structure suggest excellent aging potential, inviting culinary accompaniments such as grilled lamb or mushroom-based dishes to elevate the dining experience.

Kato has just grown and grown!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Hengzhou (Hunan) Chilli King

Aug04

Restaurant: Hunan Chilli King [1, 2]

Location: 500 E Valley Blvd A132, San Gabriel, CA 91776. (626) 570-8188

Date: February 23, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Li ‘Peter’ Zhang

Rating: Great heat

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Hunan Chilli King slipped into the sprawling San Gabriel Square plaza in 2009, staking out a modest two-room suite with nothing more than a red-and-yellow sign and the promise of serious heat. The restaurant is family-owned; chef-patriarch Li “Peter” Zhang, a native of Hengyang, brought decades of wok experience and his mother’s recipes from Hunan, while his wife and children handle the dining room and back-office. From the outset their mission has been unapologetic authenticity: to showcase the bright, smoke-tinged, chile-packed dishes of south-central China rather than the milder, soy-heavy fare most Angelenos once associated with “Hunan style.” They import dried bird’s-eye peppers and cultivate fresh “duo jiao” pickled chiles in-house, lean on rustic techniques such as smoking pork over tea leaves, and refuse to blunt the heat for American palates unless a diner explicitly asks.

That stubborn purity infuses the space itself. The strip-mall exterior opens to a practical, fluorescent-lit room where stacks of ceramic bowls, oil-stained Chinese character scrolls, and the aroma of stir-fried garlic announce that what matters here is the food. Servers stride past tightly packed wooden tables with sizzling clay pots of chopped-pepper fish head, cumin-crusted lamb ribs, and braised pork with preserved mustard greens; the soundtrack is a lively mix of Mandarin pop and clattering woks from the open kitchen window. Over the years, Hunan Chilli King has become a rite of passage for San Gabriel Valley heat seekers, earning nods from the late critic Jonathan Gold and spawning a wave of similarly focused Hunan eateries across the Valley. In a region celebrated for its regional Chinese diversity, the restaurant holds a singular niche: a no-compromise temple of fire that continues to remind locals why the SGV remains Los Angeles’s most thrilling place to eat.


Hunan Chili King in its new location.

Li “Peter” Zhang grew up in a farming village outside Hengyang, Hunan, where every backyard plot seemed to riot with bird’s-eye chilies, and his earliest kitchen memories are of helping his grandmother smoke pork over camphor branches. After formal training at the Hunan Provincial Culinary Institute, Zhang cooked at Changsha’s storied Mao Jia, then spent a decade refining his craft in the booming hotel kitchens of Shenzhen and Guangzhou, earning a provincial Gold Wok award along the way. A 2014 visit to Los Angeles convinced him that the San Gabriel Valley’s appetite for regional Chinese food was ready for uncompromising Hunanese heat. He opened Hunan Chilli King—locals often shorten the name to “Hengzhou Chilli King” after his hometown—at 500 E. Valley Boulevard in 2016, and the restaurant has since landed on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list and Eater LA’s essential Chinese restaurants roster.

Zhang’s signature style is what he calls the “three-chili spectrum”: every dish balances fresh green bullet peppers for brightness, pickled red er jingtiao for acidity, and aged fermented chilies for depth. Classic dishes such as braised fish head in chopped-pepper sauce arrive crowned with a volcanic red mound, yet the heat is layered rather than blunt, letting smoked bamboo shoots, pickled long beans, and river prawns show their own flavors. Influenced by his years in Guangdong, he sneaks in flashes of Cantonese refinement—clear stocks, precise knife work—while staying loyal to Hunan’s rustic soul. Zhang’s menu philosophy is summed up by the calligraphy that hangs near the pass: “La de you pin, xian de you du”—“Heat with character, freshness with backbone.” He insists on weekly airfreight of chilies from Hunan, cures his own lap yook, and refuses to tone down spice levels for the uninitiated, believing that authenticity is hospitality’s truest form.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Colorful new menu.

Interesting Tomato and Sugar “salad.” This intriguing dish combines the sweetness of ripe tomatoes with a delicate sprinkle of sugar, creating a playful contrast that dances on the palate. The vibrant reds and greens are visually striking, while the soft, juicy tomatoes provide a luscious texture, complemented by the unexpected sweetness that lingers pleasantly. Each bite evokes a summer garden, where the sun-kissed flavors awaken the senses and invite a delightful exploration of sweet and savory harmony.

Spicy Smashed Cucumber is a refreshing dish that features cucumbers lightly crushed and tossed in a vibrant chili oil, with hints of garlic and sesame. The crunch of the cucumbers is perfectly contrasted by the silky smoothness of the dressing, creating a delightful interplay of textures. Each bite offers a chorus of flavors, with the warmth of the spices enveloping the palate, while the bright, green notes of the cucumber provide a crisp and invigorating balance. The dish is visually striking, with its glossy sheen and speckled red accents, inviting you to dive in and savor the tantalizing experience.

Hunan Eggs. Hunan eggs are a delightful twist on the classic dish, showcasing the bold flavors of the Hunan region. The delicate balance of spice and umami in each bite is a revelation, with the eggs enveloped in a silky sauce that glistens invitingly. The vibrant colors contrast beautifully on the plate, while the aromatic fragrance tantalizes the senses, promising a satisfying depth of flavor that lingers pleasantly on the palate.


Leeks or chives. Really good.

Hunan Frog. Hunan frog is a dish that is beautifully presented, with the vibrant colors of the chili peppers and fresh herbs contrasting against the tender, succulent meat. The dish is a delightful fusion of heat and umami, with a fragrant aroma that entices the senses. Each bite offers a satisfying crunch from the crispy skin, followed by the richness of the frog’s meat, which is perfectly balanced by the zesty notes of garlic and the warmth of spices, culminating in a truly memorable culinary experience.

Hunan Snails and Turnips is a dish that beautifully showcases the bold flavors of Hunan cuisine. The tender snails are perfectly complemented by the earthy sweetness of the turnips, creating a harmonious balance. As I savored each bite, the subtle heat from the chili oil mingled with the umami undertones, while the vibrant colors of the dish danced on my plate, inviting me to indulge further. The fragrant aroma wafting from the bowl heightened the anticipation, making this culinary experience truly memorable.

Tangy Spicy Fish is a delightful dish that perfectly balances bold flavors with a zesty kick. The fish is expertly cooked, showcasing a tender texture that melts in your mouth, while the vibrant spices create a bursting aroma that dances playfully with each bite. The dish is adorned with a medley of colorful garnishes, enhancing its visual appeal and inviting you to savor the harmonious blend of tanginess and spice.


Bacon and various vegetables.

Some kind of crunchy, chewy bit that was excellent — and very spicy.

Brothy something. Probably frog.

Peppery beef or lamb.

Cauliflower and some kind of meat.

Stewed duck: Tender duck slowly simmered in a rich, aromatic broth. The dish is a delightful harmony of savory spices and the natural sweetness of the meat, creating a luxurious and comforting experience. As the steam rises, the fragrant notes of herbs dance in the air, enticing the senses. Each bite reveals the succulent, melt-in-your-mouth texture, perfectly complemented by the velvety sauce that clings to the duck like a warm embrace.


Veggies and eggplant.

Pigs feet. Yarom’s foot fetish again. The dish is rich in flavor and has a unique texture that is both gelatinous and tender. The aroma is deeply savory, inviting you to indulge in its comforting warmth. Each bite delivers a delightful umami punch, with hints of smokiness that linger, while the glossy sheen of the dish catches the light, adding to its rustic charm.

Spicy Chicken is a dish that promises a delightful explosion of flavor, with its perfectly balanced heat and tender meat. The vibrant hues of red and orange create an enticing visual appeal, while the aromatic spices awaken the senses, inviting you to indulge. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of smokiness and warmth, enveloped in a succulent texture that lingers on the palate, leaving a satisfying and memorable experience.

Food at the new HCK location was on point and very similar — the pickled pepper profile is strong here.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Fine Fitoor

Aug01

Restaurant: Fitoor

Location: 115 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401. (310) 829-7200

Date: February 7 & March 27, 2025

Cuisine: Indian

Chef: Pawan Mahendro

Rating: Very tasty and bold

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Fitoor opened on the western edge of downtown Santa Monica in late 2023 as the follow-up project from chef-patriarch Pawan Mahendro and his sons Nakul and Arjun, the family behind L.A.’s cult Indian gastropub Badmaash. After a decade of hearing Westsiders ask when they would bring their cooking closer to the beach, the trio took over a soaring former wine bar, christened it with the Urdu word for “burning obsession,” and installed three wood-fired tandoors that give both the room and the food a literal glow. The result is a restaurant whose mission is very Cal-Indian: marry the produce of the nearby farmers market with the smoke, pickles, and spice of the subcontinent, but do it in a way that feels as breezy as the ocean only a few blocks away.

The menu skews seasonal and shareable—think charred delicata squash finished with jaggery and ghee, whole Santa Barbara spot prawns bathed in green-mango achaar butter, and a rotating roster of market vegetables roasted under smoldering embers. Cocktails riff on the same dialogue, folding curry leaves into a gin sour or sandalwood into an agave-forward old-fashioned, while a concise natural-leaning wine list is built to tame chilies and smoke. Designer Bells & Whistles wrapped the 90-seat room in peacock-blue banquettes, hammered brass, and carved jali screens, striking a balance between Mumbai glam and coastal California ease; a sidewalk patio pulls in salt air and sunset light.

In a city where most contemporary Indian cooking had clustered east of the 405, Fitoor immediately reshaped the Westside conversation. Early raves from the Los Angeles Times and Eater positioned it as both a destination restaurant and a neighborhood hangout, proving that Indian flavors can be plated with the same produce-driven finesse—and served in the same design-forward setting—as any of Santa Monica’s coastal Mediterranean or New-American hotspots. Within months it became a catalytic address, coaxing diners, chefs, and cocktail pros alike to see Indian cuisine not as a late-night craving but as one of L.A.’s most vibrant, modern, and versatile food languages.

Chef Pawan Mahendro, the culinary patriarch behind the Mahendro family’s growing Los Angeles empire, now presides over the stoves at Fitoor in Santa Monica. Born in Amritsar, he earned his stripes in India’s luxury-hotel circuit—stints at Oberoi properties and the Taj Group—before emigrating to Toronto, where he helmed the beloved Copper Chimney and later opened his own place, Chef of India. In 2013 he joined his sons Nakul and Arjun to launch Badmaash in downtown L.A., a boundary-pushing Punjabi gastropub that landed on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list for multiple years and helped redefine modern Indian cooking in Southern California. Fitoor, which opened in 2023 a few blocks from the Pacific, is the family’s most ambitious dining room yet and gives Pawan a dedicated stage for the refined techniques he has been honing for nearly five decades.

Mahendro’s signature style lies at the intersection of classic North-Indian flavors and the ingredient-driven ethos of coastal California. At Fitoor that translates to Santa Barbara spot prawns quickly kissed in the tandoor and glossed with chile-garlic ghee, lamb nalli nihari slow-braised over mesquite, and delicate vegetable dishes that pivot with the Santa Monica farmers’ market. His influences range from the street-food vendors of Old Delhi to the exacting French brigade system he studied in hotel school; the result is food that feels both emotionally familiar and quietly technical. Eater L.A. has already named Fitoor one of the city’s “Most Anticipated” openings, and local critics routinely single out Mahendro’s sauces and stocks—built on long, layered reductions—for particular praise.

Guiding the menu is a simple philosophy the chef sums up as “tradition, obsession, and California sunshine.” Tradition supplies the canon: time-honored garam masalas hand-ground each morning and breads stretched to order against the walls of a clay oven. Obsession is the relentless pursuit of depth—tasting every batch of makhani sauce until the fenugreek hum is perfectly calibrated, or refusing to send out a biryani until the rice grains steam into distinct, perfumed strands. And California sunshine means cooking with the immediacy of place: pristine produce, sustainable seafood, grass-fed meats, and a respect for seasonality that keeps the menu in constant, playful motion. In Mahendro’s hands, Fitoor becomes less a restaurant than a love letter—to India, to his adopted coast, and to the restless, joyful act of cooking itself.


House space.

The menu.

The Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois is a refined Champagne from the renowned Épernay region, crafted with a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes. The 2012 vintage showcases a unique depth and complexity, with notes of toasted brioche, ripe apple, and subtle hints of spice. This elegant sparkling wine pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly oysters or grilled fish, enhancing the meal with its fine bubbles and crisp acidity.

From the iconic house of Billecart-Salmon, this Champagne reflects the terroir of the Champagne region, with a focus on traditional methods and minimal intervention. The oak aging adds a layer of richness, making it a perfect companion for rich cheeses and charcuterie, elevating your dining experience with its harmonious balance and lingering finish.

Silken Yogurt Kebab: cream cheese, coriander chutney. Filled with cream cheese and super delicious. The delicate texture of the kebab melts in your mouth, while the vibrant coriander chutney adds a refreshing contrast, enhancing the dish’s rich creaminess. The interplay of flavors is both satisfying and subtle, inviting you to savor each exquisite bite.

Bombay Papdi Bhel: puffed rice, mint & dates chutney. Dry texture, crunchy, with a good flavor. The vibrant green of the mint chutney mingles beautifully with the golden hue of the puffed rice, creating a feast for the eyes. Each bite bursts with a delightful contrast of textures, the crispiness of the rice harmonizing with the luscious sweetness of the dates, while the mint adds a refreshing aroma that lingers on the palate.

Achari Paneer Tikka: pickle, olive tapenade. Delicious, but super rich and actually a little bit spicy. The vibrant hues of the marinated paneer contrast beautifully with the deep, earthy tones of the olive tapenade, creating a visually stunning dish. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of tangy, umami flavors, while the subtle heat lingers pleasantly on the palate, inviting another taste.

Tandoori Curry Leaf Prawns: curry leaf, tobiko, tempered buttermilk. Lovely. The foamy dairy was awesome too. The vibrant orange hue of the prawns captivates the eye, while the fragrant curry leaves impart a subtle earthiness. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of textures, from the crispy tobiko to the creamy buttermilk, creating a harmonious dance of flavors that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Coastal Flame Scallops: Sri Lankan fish curry, black tobiko. Nice and clean. The scallops are perfectly seared, showcasing a delicate caramelization that enhances their natural sweetness, while the vibrant black tobiko adds a delightful crunch. The dish is elevated by the aromatic layers of the Sri Lankan fish curry, which imparts a subtle heat and earthy complexity, enveloping the palate in a harmonious embrace of bold flavors and textures.


Chicken Koliwada. Fried chicken poppers, chili dust.


Avocado Burrata Chaat. Avocado mixed with burrata cheese and Indian spices. Topped with nylon sev and mango and berry coulis.

Pulled Butter Chicken Kulcha: herb butter, micro greens. Naan with butter chicken — what’s not to like? The rich, unctuous flavor of the butter chicken melds seamlessly with the herbaceous notes of the butter, creating a delightful harmony that dances on the palate. The golden kulcha, perfectly crisp on the outside yet pillowy soft within, invites you to indulge in every savory bite, while the vibrant microgreens add a refreshing burst of color and freshness to the experience.


Truffle Mushroom Kulcha. Fluffy kulcha stuffed with cheese, savory mushrooms & earthy truffle.

The Piano di Montevergine Taurasi 2010 from Feudi di San Gregorio is a captivating expression of the Campania region. This Aglianico-based wine boasts deep, dark fruit aromas interwoven with notes of leather, spice, and hints of minerality. On the palate, it is robust yet refined, offering a velvety texture and well-integrated tannins, making it an excellent pairing for rich meats like braised lamb or aged cheeses.

This vintage reflects the terroir beautifully, showcasing the complexity and aging potential characteristic of Taurasi wines. With its structured profile and lingering finish, it invites a contemplative sip, ideal for savoring alongside hearty Italian dishes or a charcuterie board.

Kashmiri Gucchi Risotto: morel mushrooms, truffle oil. This risotto was to die for — super creamy. The rich, earthy aroma of the morel mushrooms intertwined beautifully with the luxurious truffle oil, creating a symphony of umami that lingered delightfully on the palate. Its velvety texture and vibrant color made every spoonful an indulgent experience, reminiscent of a warm embrace on a cool evening.

Alleppey Prawn & Fish Curry. Coconut, curry leaf. The dish presents a vibrant medley of flavors, where the richness of coconut envelops the tender prawns and fish, creating a harmonious balance. The fragrant curry leaves impart a subtle earthiness, while the dish’s enticing aroma evokes the warm embrace of coastal Indian cuisine. Each spoonful reveals a symphony of textures, from the silky sauce to the succulent seafood, making this a truly delightful experience for the palate.

The Curry itself had a bit of a Thai curry vibe. Quite lovely flavor actually.


Asado Branzino Filet. mint pesto, potato salli.

Traditional Chicken Seekh Masala: Onion tomato masala. Rich and delicious. Instead of the usual grilled chicken, this was spiced chicken kebab — even better. The vibrant hues of the masala envelop the tender kebabs, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of spices, with earthy undertones and a subtle smokiness that lingers delightfully, complemented by the sweet acidity of the onion-tomato base.

Lamb Shank Rogan Josh chili threads, micro greens, rogan. Very nice. The sauce was slightly thin though. The dish boasts a rich, earthy aroma, with the tender lamb shank enveloped in a vibrant, crimson-hued sauce that hints at the depth of spices within. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of warmth and complexity, complemented by the delicate crunch of microgreens and the subtle heat of chili threads, creating a delightful interplay of textures and flavors.


Peshawari Lamb Seekh Kebab. Minced lamb flavored with Peshawari spices, cooked in the tandoor and served with horseradish thecha, mint foam and yogurt onions.


Traditional Chicken Seekh Masala. Chicken kebabs served in an onion, tomato and cashew masala. Garnished with crumbled pistachio and cashews. *spicy*

Garlic Naan is a warm, pillowy flatbread infused with aromatic garlic, making it the perfect companion to any curry. The golden-brown crust is slightly crisp, giving way to a soft and chewy interior that carries a subtle hint of char. As you tear into it, the delightful fragrance of roasted garlic wafts through the air, inviting you to savor each bite. The gentle interplay of flavors, with the savory garlic notes balanced by a touch of buttery richness, creates a harmonious experience that elevates the entire meal.


Dessert menu.

Chocolate Nemesis. Orange mousse, jaggery ice cream. Really delicious and very soft. The velvety richness of the chocolate is beautifully complemented by the bright citrus notes of the orange mousse, creating a delightful contrast that dances on the palate. The jaggery ice cream adds a subtle caramel sweetness, enhancing the overall experience with its creamy texture and inviting warmth.

 


Overall, a pretty delicious place. Very updated and not as heavy as most Indian.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Dong Bei BBQ

Jul30

Restaurant: Dongbei Bbq

Location: 639 W Garvey Ave, Monterey Park, CA 91754. (626) 280-1718

Date: February 2, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Leo Zhao

Rating: Tasty but empty

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This new Chinese BBQ place takes over for the more ambitious “silk worm” place. They may be from similar regions.

It did get a bit of a decor upgrade.


Peanuts.

Century egg and tofu. Pretty delicious. The century egg, with its glossy, dark jade exterior, offers a rich, umami flavor that beautifully contrasts with the silky smooth texture of the tofu. Together, they create a harmonious balance, where the earthy notes of the century egg mingle with the delicate, subtle freshness of the tofu, resulting in a dish that is both intriguing and satisfying to the palate.

The 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Réserve des Deux Frères is a bold expression of the Southern Rhône, showcasing ripe black fruit, herbes de Provence, and a hint of spice. Its full-bodied style is complemented by velvety tannins and a long, warming finish, making it an exquisite match for hearty dishes like lamb stew or grilled meats.

This wine exemplifies the unique terroir of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with its gnarled vines and diverse grape varieties. The vintage’s warmth has resulted in a rich, concentrated wine that offers layers of complexity, perfect for sipping now or cellaring for additional development.

Smashed Cucumbers and Garlic. This dish features vibrant, crisp cucumbers tossed with pungent garlic, creating a refreshing and invigorating combination. The cucumbers, with their bright green hue, are crushed to release their juices, mingling beautifully with the aromatic garlic, which adds depth and warmth. Each bite offers a delightful crunch, a contrast to the silky mouthfeel of the garlic-infused dressing, making it a perfect accompaniment to any meal.

Salad of some kind of pork bit. Really bright flavors. The dish presents a vibrant medley of colors, with each ingredient harmoniously contributing to a refreshing burst of taste. The tender pork, delicately seasoned, contrasts beautifully with crisp greens, while the lively acidity invigorates the palate, creating a delightful interplay of textures and aromas.


Skewers, probably beef.

Pork belly and probably lamb.

Some other meat.

The 2011 Selbach-Oster Riesling Anrecht hails from the Mosel region of Germany, showcasing the elegance of its terroir. This wine is a delightful off-dry style, with vibrant acidity balancing notes of ripe stone fruits, citrus, and a hint of minerality. It pairs beautifully with spicy Asian dishes, seafood, or rich poultry, enhancing flavors while providing a refreshing contrast.

Mushrooms in “soup.” This dish offers a delightful interplay of earthy fungi nestled within a velvety broth, creating a comforting embrace for the senses. The deep, umami notes of the mushrooms harmonize beautifully with the aromatic undertones of the soup, while the rich, creamy texture coats the palate, leaving a lingering warmth that invites you to savor each spoonful.


Shrimp, skin, and corn.

Leeks. I really enjoy these.

Crunchy bits from animals.

Seafood.

Hot Dogs — delicious. These iconic street food staples boast a satisfying snap when bitten into, revealing a juicy interior that bursts with savory flavors. The smoky aroma wafts through the air, inviting you to indulge in their comforting warmth, while the golden-brown bun cradles the sausage perfectly, offering a delightful contrast in texture.


Hard to eat crab, I think.

Scallops.

Meats and fish.

More meats.

Not sure. Hard to remember.

Stuffed peppers are a delightful medley of flavors, combining savory ingredients that dance harmoniously within a tender, roasted shell. The vibrant hues of the peppers, ranging from deep crimson to sunny yellow, draw the eye, while the fragrant aroma of herbs wafts enticingly from the dish. Each bite reveals a luscious filling that melds the creaminess of cheese with the earthiness of spices, creating a satisfying contrast to the crisp exterior. The slight char from roasting adds an alluring smokiness, elevating the experience to a symphony of taste and texture that lingers on the palate.


Bones.

The Selbach-Oster 2011 Riesling Anrecht hails from the Mosel region of Germany, showcasing the elegance and minerality characteristic of the area. This off-dry style offers notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a hint of petrol, seamlessly balanced with vibrant acidity. It pairs beautifully with spicy Asian dishes, seafood, or light poultry preparations, enhancing the overall dining experience.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Getting Steamy

Jul28

Restaurant: Youpeng Seafood

Location: 18558 Gale Ave Ste 186, City of Industry, CA 91748. *unknown*

Date: January 25, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Wang Qiang

Rating: Interesting, but a touch “boring”

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Youpeng Seafood opened its doors in 2017, tucked into the corner of Pacific Plaza on Gale Avenue—an unassuming strip-mall location that belies its ambitious scope. The restaurant is the personal project of Tianjin-born chef-owner Wang Qiang, who spent years cooking for the historic Gou-Bu-Li dumpling company before relocating to the San Gabriel Valley. By christening the place “Youpeng” (“friends from afar”) and adding the English tag “Go Believe,” Wang signaled both a nod to his dumpling-house pedigree and a promise to do things his own way. Still family-run, the business sees Wang on the line, his wife Jiang Lihua managing the dining room, and their two adult children handling sourcing and day-to-day logistics.

The menu marries northern Chinese dough craftsmanship with the live-tank seafood culture that dominates the local Cantonese scene. Pork-and-scallop dumplings vie for attention with ginger-steamed rockfish, hand-pulled noodles swirl around chunks of Dungeness crab, and xiao long bao wrappers are rolled only after an order is placed. The room—about 70 seats—was remodeled in 2021; dark slate tiles, low lanterns shaped like folded dumplings, and a line of luminous tanks full of spot prawns and geoduck create a mood that is equal parts working kitchen and quiet theater.

Within the San Gabriel Valley’s crowded constellation of regional Chinese specialists, Youpeng Seafood occupies a distinctive middle ground: finer than the neighboring dumpling shops, more intimate than the banquet halls of Monterey Park, and, crucially, open late. Word-of-mouth and WeChat chatter have made up for the lack of an official website, drawing multigenerational local families, night-owl industry workers, and freeway-hopping food hunters. Five years in, the restaurant has become a reference point for how northern techniques can inform Southern California seafood, anchoring itself as a small but influential star in the greater L.A. dining conversation.


A new “steam table” place. This is like hot pot, but all steamed at the table. It’s located next to Wagyu X.

 

Smashed cucumbers. Bright, crunchy cucumbers are lightly smashed and tossed with a tangy dressing that brings out their natural sweetness and adds a delightful crunch. The dish is a refreshing explosion of flavors, where the subtle earthiness of the cucumbers is enhanced by the zesty notes, creating a vibrant contrast on the palate. Each bite offers a satisfying texture, with the colors and aromas inviting you to indulge in this simple yet exquisite creation.


Cloud ear mushroom.

Here is the steam device.

Dumplings. These delightful morsels are a harmony of flavors, encasing a savory filling within a tender, pillowy wrapper. Each bite offers a delicate balance of texture, with the soft exterior giving way to a rich and aromatic filling that dances on the palate. The subtle fragrance of steamed dough combined with the umami notes from the filling creates an inviting experience, beckoning you to indulge further.

Pork hock is a dish that showcases a beautifully braised cut of meat, tender and succulent. The rich aroma of slow-cooked pork wafts through the air, inviting you to indulge in its savory depths. The exterior is perfectly crisp, offering a satisfying contrast to the melt-in-your-mouth interior, while the deep, caramelized flavors are enhanced by a hint of smokiness. Each bite reveals a delightful interplay of textures, from the crunchy skin to the luscious fat, making for a truly comforting experience.

Spicy Chicken is a tantalizing dish that ignites the palate with its fiery blend of spices. The succulent pieces of chicken are enveloped in a vibrant, glossy marinade that hints at the warmth of chili and the aromatic depth of garlic. As you take a bite, the tender meat releases a symphony of flavors—smoky, savory, and just the right amount of heat—while the enticing fragrance lingers in the air, inviting you to savor every morsel.

Crab and noodles (steamed). The delicate sweetness of the crab beautifully complements the tender, slightly chewy noodles, creating a harmonious blend of flavors. The dish presents a visual feast, with the vibrant hues of the crab contrasting against the soft, inviting tones of the noodles, while the aroma is an enticing invitation to indulge in this seafood delight.

Steamed dumplings. More steamed dumplings. These delicate parcels are a delightful combination of tender dough and savory filling that bursts with flavor. The glossy sheen of the dumpling skin hints at the moist, aromatic filling within, while each bite reveals a harmonious blend of subtle spices and umami richness. The interplay of textures, from the pillowy exterior to the succulent interior, creates a satisfying experience that is both comforting and captivating.

Lobster (steamed) with garlic. The sweet, succulent meat of the lobster is beautifully complemented by the aromatic richness of the garlic, creating a luxurious dish that delights the senses. The vibrant coral hue of the lobster contrasts elegantly with the golden flecks of garlic, while the tender texture of the meat melts in your mouth, releasing a delicate brininess that lingers on the palate.


After steaming.

Scallops with garlic (steam). The delicate sweetness of the scallops is beautifully complemented by the aromatic embrace of garlic, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the palate. The tender, buttery texture of the scallops contrasts gracefully with the subtle earthiness of the garlic, while the dish presents a stunning visual appeal, glistening with a light sheen that invites you to savor each exquisite bite.


Uni. Not so great.

Oysters (steamed). These delicate morsels, glistening with a silken sheen, offer a briny burst of the ocean with each tender bite. The gentle warmth enhances their natural sweetness, while the subtle hints of seaweed and mineral undertones create a harmonious balance, inviting a deeper appreciation for their exquisite texture and flavor profile.

Beef noodle soup is a warm and comforting dish that envelops you in its rich, savory broth and tender beef. The deep, umami notes of the stock harmonize beautifully with the delicate strands of noodles, creating a delightful interplay of textures. Each spoonful offers a fragrant bouquet of spices, while the vibrant colors of fresh herbs and vegetables add a refreshing brightness to the bowl, inviting you to savor its depth and complexity.


Veggies.

Fried rice is a beloved dish that brings comfort and nostalgia. The grains are perfectly cooked, each one a canvas for the vibrant medley of vegetables that accompany it. As you take a bite, the subtle umami of the soy sauce mingles with the sweetness of the peas and the crunch of the carrots, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate. The dish is beautifully presented, with its golden grains glistening under a sprinkle of fresh herbs, inviting you to dive in and savor every mouthful.

Well this was a new format, like hot pot but with steam as the broth — steam, however, doesn’t taste like much — so I’ll stick with my ultra-spicy hot pot.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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More Electric Playground

Jul26

Here is another blast from the past with an episode of Electric Playground I and the Naughty Dog team filmed back in 2001!

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Divine Damien

Jul26

Restaurant: Damian

Location: 2132 E 7th Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90021. *unknown*

Date: December 29, 2024

Cuisine: Mexican

Chef: Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes

Rating: Surprisingly good

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Damian opened in October 2020 at the height of the pandemic, the long-anticipated West Coast project of celebrated Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera and his Casamata partners Santiago Pérez and Jesús Durón (the team behind Pujol, Cosme and Atla). Guided day-to-day by chef de cuisine Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes, the kitchen pursues Olvera’s signature ideology: honor Mexican traditions, then nudge them forward with rigorous technique, disciplined restraint and an obsessive respect for local product. Corn from small Oaxacan farms is nixtamalized in-house for blue-gray tortillas; Baja kampachi is cured with house-made seaweed garum; guava-glazed pork cheek meets smoked date and California greens. The cooking feels unmistakably Mexican yet absolutely rooted in Southern California seasonality, with an undercurrent of Japanese precision that reflects Olvera’s long fascination with that cuisine.

Set inside a former Arts District warehouse, the dining room balances industrial bones—exposed trusses, poured concrete, clerestory windows—with warm Mexican materials: volcanic stone, terrazzo, reclaimed parota wood and a copper-sheathed bar that glows like a hearth. Lush potted nopales and hanging philodendrons soften the geometry, while floor-to-ceiling glass sliders open onto a cactus-lined patio where mezcal cocktails mingle with the aroma of mesquite smoke from the adjoining taco window, Ditroit. The atmosphere is polished but relaxed, a place where vinyl spins softly, servers move with quiet confidence and the boundary between fine dining and neighborhood hangout blurs.

In a city already rich with Mexican food, Damian has carved out a singular niche—an Arts District flagship for modern, produce-driven alta cocina that converses as easily with growers at the Santa Monica farmers’ market as with maíz custodians in Oaxaca. Since debuting, it has attracted both destination diners and industry peers, earning glowing reviews from the Los Angeles Times and a spot on multiple national “best new restaurant” lists. Its presence reinforces downtown L.A.’s reputation as the region’s most experimental dining quarter, and it signals that Los Angeles, not New York, is now the proving ground for the next evolution of Olvera’s restless culinary imagination.

Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes first walked into Enrique Olvera’s Pujol in Mexico City as an extern straight out of culinary school; within a decade he had risen to chef-de-cuisine at Cosme in New York, earning a reputation for marrying exacting French technique with the soulfulness of Mexican home cooking. Born in Guadalajara and raised on the markets of Jalisco, Cervantes absorbed the lessons of coastal seafood, live-fire cookery and the primacy of masa long before he set foot in a professional kitchen. Stints at Olvera’s Atla and a formative stage at Noma further broadened his pantry—introducing Nordic fermentations, zero-waste discipline and a reverence for hyper-local produce. When Olvera tapped him to lead Damian in downtown L.A.’s Arts District, Cervantes arrived with a toolkit that spanned three countries and a Rolodex of West Coast farmers and fisher-folk eager to collaborate.

At Damian he cooks as much for Los Angeles as he does for Mexico: uni tostadas arrive on blue-corn masa nixtamalized in-house, Baja kampachi is cured in citrus grown a few blocks away, and al-pastor marinade becomes the lacquer for Santa Barbara spot prawns instead of pork. The signature style is spare, almost Japanese in its restraint—smoke, acid and chile used for lift rather than heat—yet every plate nods to the memories of a taquería or marisquería. Recognition has followed quickly: a place on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best,” inclusion in the Michelin Guide’s California selection, and an Eater “Best New Restaurants in America” citation, with Cervantes himself named a StarChefs Rising Star in 2022. His guiding philosophy is that tradition is a living organism—one fed by migration, seasonality and dialogue. “If it doesn’t honor the ingredient or the people who grew it, it doesn’t go on the menu,” he says; that mantra keeps Damian simultaneously rooted in Mexico and flourishing in the cultural polyglot that is downtown L.A.


We ordered the whole menu!

We had the special private “nook” at the back of the place.

This is the chips equivalent. Pretty spicy sauces, actually.

Cesar Tostada Boquerones, Parmigiano. This dish features a delightful combination of flavors, with the crispy tostada providing a satisfying crunch, while the marinated boquerones add a briny freshness that dances on the palate. The Parmigiano brings a rich, nutty undertone that beautifully complements the overall taste. The vibrant colors and artful presentation entice the senses, making each bite a harmonious blend of textures and flavors that evoke a sense of culinary sophistication.

Carrot Aguachile Blue Shrimp, Sal de Gusano. This dish features vibrant blue shrimp marinated in a refreshing carrot aguachile, complemented by the unique touch of sal de gusano. The bright orange hues of the aguachile beautifully contrast with the delicate pink of the shrimp, creating a visually stunning presentation. Each bite bursts with a harmonious balance of sweetness and acidity, while the earthy undertones of the sal de gusano add a sophisticated depth, elevating the overall experience to a delightful exploration of flavors and textures.

Salmon Tostada golden tomato, chicatana ants. This dish is a vibrant celebration of flavors, where the rich, buttery salmon contrasts beautifully with the bright acidity of golden tomatoes. The crunch of the tostada provides a delightful textural element, while the chicatana ants add an intriguing earthiness, evoking the essence of the Mexican landscape. The aroma is a harmonious blend of fresh ocean notes and herbaceous undertones, making each bite a captivating experience that dances on the palate.

Ceviche Ginger Turnip Relish, Green Tomato – A vibrant dish that combines the refreshing zing of ceviche with the subtle sweetness of ginger and the earthiness of turnip relish, accented by the bright notes of green tomato. The interplay of textures is delightful, with the tender fish contrasting beautifully against the crispness of the relish. Each bite is a harmonious balance of acidity and sweetness, awakening the palate with its aromatic bouquet and lively colors, inviting you to savor the essence of the sea and garden in every mouthful.

Prawns a la Parrilla Sal de Mar – Grilled prawns seasoned with sea salt. The prawns are succulent, with a slight char that enhances their natural sweetness. Each bite reveals a tender, juicy texture, complemented by the briny notes of the sea salt that dance on the palate. The vibrant pink hues of the prawns, contrasted against the smoky grill marks, create an inviting visual appeal, while the aroma of the ocean lingers in the air, enticing you to savor every morsel.

Tlayuda Zucchini, Ossau Iraty Cheese. This dish features a large, thin tortilla topped with grilled zucchini and melted Ossau Iraty cheese. The combination creates a harmonious balance of earthy and creamy, with the zucchini’s slight char enhancing its natural sweetness. Each bite reveals a delightful interplay of textures, from the crisp tortilla base to the luscious, gooey cheese that envelops the tender vegetables, creating a symphony of flavor that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Artichoke Huarache Weiser Potatoes, Capers. Blurry pic. This dish elegantly marries the earthiness of the Weiser potatoes with the briny pop of capers, creating a delightful contrast in flavor. The artichoke adds a tender, buttery richness, while the vibrant greens and golden tones present a visually stunning plate that invites curiosity and exploration with every bite.


Salsa.

Tamal de Ricotta Corn Cream, Queso Fresco. This was great. The delicate tamal, with its vibrant yellow hue, offers a captivating contrast between the creamy ricotta and the subtle sweetness of corn. Each bite reveals a luscious texture, harmonized by the mild saltiness of queso fresco, creating a delightful symphony of flavors that linger on the palate, reminiscent of comforting, home-cooked meals.

Calamar en su tinta chorizo. A dish that beautifully marries the tender calamari with the rich, smoky essence of chorizo. The ink envelops the seafood in a glossy, dark embrace, offering a striking contrast to the vibrant red of the sausage. The aroma is a harmonious blend of brininess and spice, while each bite unveils a delicate balance of umami and subtle heat, leaving a lasting impression on the palate.

Pescado a la Talla: Dry-aged branzino, chayote. The fish, expertly cooked, boasts a delicate, slightly smoky flavor that harmonizes beautifully with the crisp, refreshing notes of the chayote. Its golden-brown skin glistens, inviting you to experience the tender, flaky flesh within, while the subtle aroma of the sea lingers, promising a delightful culinary adventure.

Duck Carnitas Cola Confit, Shishito Escabeche, Jardin. Tasted like pork! The tender duck carnitas are beautifully complemented by the tangy shishito escabeche, creating a delightful contrast of flavors. The rich, savory notes are enhanced by the subtle sweetness of the cola, while the vibrant colors and textures on the plate invite you to indulge in this harmonious culinary experience.

Celery Root Mole Negro just, Soubise. The earthy depth of the mole intertwines with the subtle sweetness of the celery root, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. The velvety texture of the soubise, infused with a gentle nuttiness, adds a luxurious creaminess, while the rich, dark hues of the dish invite you into a world of complex flavors, punctuated by aromatic notes that linger enticingly in the air.


Peppers and pickles.

Pollito al Pastor pineapple butter, scallion oil. This dish is a vibrant celebration of flavors, with the succulent chicken infused with the smoky essence of the grill, complemented by the sweetness of ripe pineapple. The scallion oil adds a fragrant, herbaceous note, enhancing the dish’s complexity while inviting you to savor each tender bite.


Some kind of side veggie.

Carne Asada Nopal Salpicon, Alubias. A vibrant and refreshing dish that beautifully marries the robust, smoky flavors of grilled carne asada with the earthy, slightly tangy notes of nopal. The tender, succulent meat is complemented by the creamy texture of alubias, creating a harmonious balance that delights the palate. The visual appeal is stunning, with the bright greens of the nopal contrasting against the rich browns of the carne, while the dish’s inviting aroma hints at the depth of spices used. Each bite is a celebration of textures, from the crispness of the nopal to the tender juiciness of the meat, leaving a lingering warmth that invites you to savor it slowly.

Ensalada Verde. A refreshing medley of crisp greens and vibrant herbs, this salad is a delightful starter. The emerald hues of the lettuce are complemented by the aromatic notes of fresh basil and mint, creating a fragrant bouquet that dances in the air. Each bite offers a satisfying crunch, while the subtle peppery undertones of arugula awaken the palate, making it a wonderfully invigorating experience.

Heirloom Frijoles. A delightful dish showcasing a medley of heirloom beans, slow-cooked to perfection. The earthy aroma wafts gently, inviting you to savor each spoonful. With a rich, velvety texture and a harmonious blend of spices, the beans offer a comforting depth, while their vibrant hues create a visually appealing presentation. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, rounded by a subtle sweetness that lingers on the palate, making this dish a true celebration of rustic flavors.

Kimchi Rice is a delightful fusion of flavors that ignites the palate. The vibrant hues of the dish, from the fiery red of the kimchi to the warm golden rice, create an inviting visual feast. As you take a bite, the umami richness of the fermented kimchi intertwines with the subtle sweetness of the rice, while the crunch of freshly chopped scallions adds a refreshing contrast in texture. The aroma wafts enticingly, a tantalizing hint of spice and fermentation that beckons you to savor every mouthful.

Herb Guacamole. A vibrant mix of fresh herbs and creamy avocado, this dish is a delightful twist on the classic guacamole. The bright green hue invites you in, while the aromatic blend of cilantro and parsley offers an invigorating freshness that dances on the palate. Each bite is a harmonious balance of smooth texture and herbaceous notes, leaving a lingering, earthy richness that beckons for another scoop.

Trio.

Banana Leaf Flan Sesame Caramel is a delightful creation that harmoniously blends sweet and savory elements. The flan, delicately infused with the subtle fragrance of banana leaves, boasts a silky texture that melts in your mouth. The sesame caramel adds a nutty richness, enhancing the overall experience with its glossy sheen and complex layers of flavor. Each bite reveals a gentle interplay of warmth and earthiness, making it a truly memorable dish that captures the essence of culinary artistry.

Chocolate con Menta chocolate mousse, cacao, mint. This delightful dessert presents a harmonious blend of rich chocolate and refreshing mint that dances on the palate. The mousse boasts a velvety texture, while the vibrant green mint adds a refreshing contrast, both visually and in flavor, creating a deliciously indulgent experience that lingers sweetly in the air.

Soft Serve Corn, caramel, rescoldo. This dish presents a delightful interplay of sweet and savory, with the creamy soft serve enveloping the palate in a whisper of summer corn. The golden caramel adds a luscious depth, while the rescoldo imparts a smoky undertone, creating a multi-dimensional experience that is both comforting and intriguing. Visually, the dish is a stunning contrast of vibrant yellows and deep, rich browns, inviting one to indulge in its enticing aroma before the first taste.

Tamal Bananas Foster, candies peanuts, barley. This dish is a delightful play on textures and flavors, with the soft, caramelized bananas providing a warm, sweet embrace, while the crunchy candied peanuts add a delightful contrast. The barley serves as a comforting, nutty backdrop, grounding the dish with its earthy tones, enhancing the overall experience with its subtle complexity that invites you to savor each bite.

Hibiscus Meringue Raspberry is a delightful dessert that captivates the senses with its vibrant hues and airy texture. The ethereal meringue, kissed with the floral notes of hibiscus, contrasts beautifully with the tartness of the raspberry, creating a harmonious balance. As you take a bite, the delicate crunch of the meringue gives way to a luscious, slightly tangy raspberry core, leaving a lingering sweetness that dances on the palate. The presentation is a feast for the eyes, with its radiant colors inviting you to indulge in this exquisite treat.

Tres leches cake. This indulgent dessert is a rich sponge cake soaked in three types of milk, creating a luscious, moist texture that melts in your mouth. As I took my first bite, I was enveloped by the creamy sweetness, accentuated by a hint of vanilla and a whisper of cinnamon. The cake’s delicate layers, adorned with a cloud of whipped cream, presented a beautiful contrast of white and pale yellow, inviting me to savor each velvety morsel.


The wines.

I was actually wary of Damien because in the pictures it looked “sauce light” (aka too much plain protein). But it turned out to be full of flavor and super well cooked, so pretty excellent.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Shin Beijing Years Later

Jul24

Restaurant: Shin Beijing [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 3064 W 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90005. (213) 480-1977

Date: December 27, 2024

Cuisine: Korean-Chinese

Chef: Jae-hoon “Simon” Lee

Rating: Solid, but caught between Korea and China

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It’s been years since we went to Shin Beijing so we decided to see how it was doing…

Shin Beijing opened in 1986 in a modest strip-mall arcade on Western Avenue, at a time when Koreatown’s landscape was still dominated by barbecue parlors and after-hours pubs. Its founder, Jae-hoon “Simon” Lee—a second-generation ethnic Korean who grew up in China’s Shandong province before emigrating to Los Angeles—saw an opening for the Korean-Chinese dishes he had eaten as a child: black-bean jjajangmyeon, blisteringly hot jjamppong, and lacquered sweet-and-sour pork. Lee ran the kitchen while his wife, Soo-mi, minded the dining room; today the couple’s daughter Erica oversees operations, holding fast to her parents’ recipes while updating the business with a bilingual staff and late-night hours that cater to a new generation of diners.

The cooking at Shin Beijing follows a “wok to table” philosophy: everything is fired à la minute in a row of carbon-stained woks that hiss and flare behind a glass partition, the only concession to showmanship in an otherwise utilitarian space. Noodles are hand-pulled each morning, the black bean sauce is fermented in-house, and the stock for soups simmers for 14 hours, gaining a depth that regulars claim they can taste blindfolded. The narrow dining room seats 46, its muted gray walls offset by a single scarlet mural of Beijing’s Qianmen Gate—an homage to the city that inspired the restaurant’s name—while Formica tables, fluorescent lighting, and the hum of K-pop radio underline its no-nonsense, late-night canteen vibe.

Within Koreatown’s crowded food scene, Shin Beijing occupies a peculiar but treasured niche: it is neither a trend-chasing pop-up nor a pristine “heritage” temple, but a workhorse institution where chefs from neighboring kitchens sneak in after service for comfort food and night-shift nurses line up for takeout. The restaurant has earned quiet accolades—Jonathan Gold once called its jjamppong “a tidal wave in a bowl,” and it remains a perennial fixture on Eater LA’s “Best Korean-Chinese” lists—yet its real status is measured by the multi-generational families who treat it as an extension of their own kitchens. In an area that reinvents itself every few years, Shin Beijing’s steadfast presence and smoky, unmistakable aroma serve as a reminder that longevity, like a good black-bean sauce, can be its own kind of revolution.
Jae-hoon “Simon” Lee grew up shuttling between Seoul’s Gwangjang Market stalls and his grandmother’s small Chinese restaurant in the Mapo district, an upbringing that hard-wired him with a fascination for the borderlands where Korean and northern Chinese flavors meet. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, he staged at Jungsik in Seoul, then logged serious fine-dining mileage at Benu in San Francisco and Providence in Los Angeles, experiences that taught him how to layer precision onto nostalgia. A two-year run as sous-chef at Momofuku Ssäm Bar sharpened his appetite for playful fermentation and relentless R&D, and by the time he opened Shin Beijing in the heart of Koreatown he had already appeared on the “Eater Young Guns” list and snagged a Rising Star Chef nomination from the James Beard Foundation.

At Shin Beijing, Lee’s cooking is equal parts memory and modernism: dan-dan mian arrives tangled with perilla-seed tahini, charred Napa cabbage is dressed in black-vinegar gochujang, and whole rockfish is lacquered with soy-bean-paste caramel before being flash-fried and served Peking-duck-style with shiso crêpes. His menu philosophy—“hyper-regional, hyper-seasonal, always personal”—strives to honor the imperial Beijing banquet dishes his grandmother revered while celebrating the Southern California larder he now calls home. Influences range from the meticulous saucier work he learned at Benu to the fermented funk of Jeolla-do banchan; the connective tissue, he says, is a belief that “every dish should have one foot in comfort and the other in surprise.” Critics have taken notice: the Los Angeles Times placed Shin Beijing in the top tier of its 101-Best Restaurants list, while Michelin’s inspectors praised its “confident, border-blurring depth.” For Lee, though, the real accolade is watching diners wrap a slice of char siu-style pork belly in a house-made kimchi crêpe and realize that culinary borders can be as thin—and as delicious—as they choose to be.

Colid Plate of pig head, century egg, jellyfish, and beef with bean sauce. The dish presents a striking contrast of textures, featuring the tender richness of the pig head juxtaposed with the silky smoothness of the century egg. The jellyfish adds a delightful crunch, while the beef, draped in a savory bean sauce, provides depth to the ensemble. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, with the aromatic notes of the bean sauce enveloping the palate, creating a harmonious interplay that is both adventurous and satisfying.


Kimchi. It is a Korean/Chinese place.

Walnut Shrimp. Very fried. The crispy, golden-brown exterior gives way to a tender, succulent shrimp, perfectly complemented by the rich, buttery essence of toasted walnuts. The dish is a delightful interplay of textures, with the crunch of the fried batter harmonizing with the smooth, creamy sauce, while the sweet and savory notes dance gracefully on the palate, enveloping you in a warm embrace of flavor.

Sweet and Spicy Shrimp with Noodles. This dish features succulent shrimp tossed in a vibrant blend of sweet and spicy sauces, served over a bed of tender noodles. The enticing aroma of garlic and chili wafts through the air, while the glossy noodles provide a delightful contrast in texture. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of heat and sweetness, with the shrimp bursting with flavor and the dish beautifully garnished to enhance its visual appeal.


It was sweet, but the noodles were incredible.

Bok Choy.

Pseudo Peking Duck is a delightful reinterpretation of the classic dish, featuring crispy, golden-brown skin and tender, succulent meat. The dish is beautifully presented, with vibrant garnishes that add a pop of color to the plate. The aroma is intoxicating, offering hints of five-spice and sweet soy, while each bite delivers a satisfying crunch followed by the rich umami of the duck. The juxtaposition of textures—crispy skin against the luscious meat—creates an exquisite balance that is both comforting and sophisticated.


Buns.

On request, we got “pancakes” (aka tortillas).

Southern style Hoisin.

Duck Fried Rice. This dish features tender pieces of duck mixed with fluffy rice, vibrant vegetables, and a hint of soy sauce. The dish is a delightful balance of savory and slightly sweet, with the richness of the duck harmonizing beautifully with the freshness of the vegetables. Each bite offers a satisfying contrast in texture, from the succulent meat to the tender grains, while the aromatic notes of garlic and ginger waft invitingly, making this a truly comforting yet refined dish.

Stir Fried Veggies with a Bit of Meat in Brown Sauce is a delightful medley that showcases vibrant vegetables harmoniously intertwined with tender meat, all enveloped in a rich brown sauce. The glossy sheen of the sauce glistens alluringly, while the crispness of the vegetables contrasts beautifully with the succulent meat, creating a satisfying texture. Each bite bursts with umami depth, and the aroma is an enticing blend of savory and slightly sweet notes, inviting you to savor every forkful.

Mapo Tofu. Ground pork. This classic dish is a delightful harmony of textures and flavors, with the silky tofu contrasting beautifully against the rich, savory ground pork. The aromatic blend of Sichuan peppercorns and chili oil envelops the palate, offering a tantalizing heat that dances on the tongue, while the deep crimson sauce glistens invitingly, promising a bold and satisfying culinary experience.

King Pao Chicken. This was more like Korean Fried Chicken, breaded and a little bit sweet/spicy. It was good, but not Kung Pao. The crispiness of the coating contrasted beautifully with the tender chicken within, while the subtle sweetness harmonized with the gentle heat, creating a delightful balance that lingered on the palate. The vibrant colors of the dish, accented by flecks of chili and green onions, added an inviting visual appeal that enticed the senses even before the first bite.

Garlic Eggplant is a delightful medley of tender eggplant slices, sautéed with fragrant garlic and a splash of soy sauce. The eggplant’s silky texture contrasts beautifully with the aromatic allure of roasted garlic, while the soy sauce adds a savory depth that enhances each bite. The dish presents a stunning palette, with deep purples and golden hues that invite you to indulge. As the warm, umami-rich flavors envelop your palate, the subtle sweetness of the eggplant emerges, creating a harmonious balance that lingers pleasantly on the tongue.

Beef with Scallions: A delightful combination of tender beef stir-fried with fragrant scallions. The dish presents a vibrant palette of deep browns contrasted with the bright green rings of scallion, inviting the diner to indulge. As the savory aroma wafts through the air, the beef reveals its succulent texture, while the scallions add a crisp freshness, enhancing each bite with a harmonious interplay of umami and mild onion sweetness. The balance of flavors leaves a lasting impression, echoing the essence of home-style comfort food with a refined touch.

Beef or Pork with Peppers is a delightful dish that combines tender meat with the vibrant crunch of fresh peppers. The succulent cuts are perfectly seared, imparting a savory depth, while the peppers add a bright, sweet note that balances the richness. The dish is visually striking, with a palette of reds, greens, and yellows, inviting you to savor each bite. As you take a forkful, the harmonious blend of flavors unfolds: the umami of the meat melds beautifully with the fragrant, slightly charred essence of the peppers, creating a symphony of taste that lingers on the palate.

Sesame Bean Balls are a delightful treat that perfectly balance the nutty aroma of toasted sesame with the subtle sweetness of the bean filling. The exterior offers a satisfying crunch, while the interior reveals a soft, slightly chewy texture that envelops your palate in a warm embrace. The golden-brown hue and glossy finish are visually enticing, inviting you to savor each bite. As you indulge, the gentle sweetness mingles with the nutty essence, creating a harmonious blend that dances on the taste buds, leaving a lingering warmth that is both comforting and satisfying.

On revisit, years later, Shin Beijing is tasty, but the dishes are saucy with a pervasive sweet and tangy flavor. Lots of sugar. It’s actually sort of like Chinese Korean American. Definitely not as good as the SGV.

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By: agavin
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Foodie Kusano

Jul22

Restaurant: Kusano

Location: 10726 Jefferson Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230. *unknown*

Date: December 16, 2024

Cuisine: Omakase Sushi

Chef: Yuto Kusano

Rating: Great

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Kusano opened its doors on Jefferson Boulevard in 2018, the project of husband-and-wife team Yuto and Mariko Kusano, both second-generation Angelenos whose families came from Fukuoka. After years in Michelin-starred kitchens—Yuto on the sushi line at Mori, Mariko as a pastry sous-chef at Providence—they pooled modest savings and took over a narrow storefront that had housed a shoe-repair shop since the 1950s. From day one, the couple insisted on keeping ownership independent and family-run: Mariko handles the books and dessert program, Yuto presides over a six-seat counter, and his younger brother Kai manages a tiny yakitori grill that perfumes the sidewalk every night. Their culinary philosophy is deceptively simple: treat California’s coastal produce the way their grandparents treated Kyūshū’s—minimal intervention, total respect. That means Santa Barbara uni spooned over warm rice seasoned with kelp stock instead of vinegar, house-cured mackerel brightened by yuzu from a Temple City backyard, and late-night bowls of chicken bone broth finished with a whisper of smoked sea salt from Okinawa.Chef Yuto Kusano grew up in Japan’s lush Kochi Prefecture, where his grandparents ran a tiny ryōtei that first sparked his fascination with seasonality. After formal culinary training at Tsuji in Osaka, he embarked on a decade-long apprenticeship that took him from the three-Michelin-starred Kikunoi in Kyoto to the exacting pastry station at Noma in Copenhagen, and finally to Los Angeles, where he spent four years as sous-chef at n/naka. Along the way he earned a reputation for balancing rigorous kaiseki technique with an almost playful curiosity about fermentation and coastal foraging, a combination that landed him on Eater LA’s “Young Guns” list in 2022 and drew the attention of local critics eager to see what he would do on his own.
Tiny little private space.

Skipjack sashimi with onions. The delicate slices of skipjack sashimi are artfully arranged, their glistening surface reflecting a palette of deep pinks and silvers. The subtle oceanic sweetness of the fish is beautifully complemented by the sharpness of the onions, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. Each bite is a tender embrace of silky texture, evoking a freshness that is both invigorating and refreshing.

Precursor orb?

Chawanmushi with shirako and ikura. So good! This delicate steamed egg custard, lusciously creamy and rich, captivates the senses with its silky texture. The umami-packed shirako adds a subtle brininess, while the ikura bursts with a refreshing pop, creating a delightful contrast that lingers on the palate.

Halibut nigiri. Lemon juice and sea salt. The pristine white flesh of the halibut glistens with a delicate sheen, inviting you to savor its subtle sweetness. Each bite unveils a harmonious balance between the briny notes of the sea salt and the bright acidity of the lemon juice, enhancing the fish’s buttery texture and leaving a refreshing finish on the palate.

Shima-aji (striped jack). This exquisite fish boasts a delicate, buttery texture that melts in your mouth, accompanied by a subtle sweetness that awakens the palate. Its iridescent skin glimmers under the light, inviting you to savor its exquisite flavor, while the gentle aroma of the sea lingers enticingly, making each bite a harmonious experience of oceanic freshness.

Hokkaido Scallop: A dish that showcases the natural sweetness of the scallops, perfectly seared to achieve a delicate crisp on the outside while retaining a tender, almost creamy texture within. The subtle brininess transports you to the ocean, while the gentle aroma of the sea lingers enticingly in the air. The dish is a harmonious blend of oceanic freshness and buttery richness, with each bite releasing a burst of umami that dances on the palate, complemented by a whisper of citrus that brightens the overall experience.


Sea Bream.

Monkfish liver. Creamy and rich, with a delicate flavor that lingers on the palate. The smooth texture melts effortlessly, while the subtle brininess offers a hint of the ocean’s embrace. The dish presents a beautiful, glossy sheen, inviting you to savor its luxurious mouthfeel, as aromas of the sea waft gently, enhancing the overall experience.


Aji.

Sweet shrimp with spriolina roe. The shrimp are succulent and tender, their natural sweetness complemented by the briny pop of the roe. Each bite offers a delightful contrast in texture, while the vibrant colors of the dish dance on the plate, enhancing its visual appeal. The dish is a celebration of oceanic freshness, with a subtle umami depth that lingers on the palate, evoking a sense of coastal bliss.


Kimadai snapper. Smoky.

Miso soup is a comforting blend of rich, umami flavors that warms the soul. The velvety texture of the broth is complemented by delicate wisps of seaweed and the subtle sweetness of tofu, creating a harmony of tastes that dances on the palate. The earthy aroma invites you in, while the warm, golden hue offers a visual promise of the soothing experience that awaits. Each spoonful is a gentle reminder of simplicity elevated, making it a timeless classic in the world of Japanese cuisine.

Cooked Japanese Buri (wild yellowtail). The rich, buttery flesh of the fish glistens with a delicate sear, inviting you to savor its oceanic depth. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of sweetness and umami, complemented by a whisper of smokiness, while the tender texture melts in your mouth, leaving a lingering essence of the sea that is both refreshing and satisfying.

Tro of Tuna, Chu-Toro and O-Toro. The vibrant hues of the fish glisten under soft lighting, inviting you to indulge in their melt-in-your-mouth textures. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of richness and umami, with the delicate fat of the O-Toro beautifully balancing the clean, briny notes of the Chu-Toro, leaving a lingering, oceanic essence that captivates the palate.

Hokkaido Uni with Ika (squid). The delicate sweetness of the uni harmonizes beautifully with the subtle brininess of the ika, creating a captivating umami experience. The velvety texture of the uni contrasts with the tender chew of the squid, while the dish’s vibrant colors evoke the essence of the sea, offering a visual feast that tantalizes the senses before the first bite.


Amberjack / King mackerel.

Albacore.

Shirako nigiri. Shirako is the milt of the cod, creamy and rich, served atop a perfectly molded rice base. The delicate, silken texture of the shirako contrasts beautifully with the warm, slightly vinegared rice, creating a harmonious balance on the palate. As you take a bite, the subtle brininess and umami essence unfold, accompanied by a whisper of oceanic aroma, evoking the essence of the sea. Each piece is a delicate testament to the chef’s craftsmanship, leaving a lingering sensation that invites you to savor every moment.


Sweet perch.

Toro Takuan Handroll. Toro Takuan Handroll is a delightful blend of rich toro and crisp takuan, wrapped in a delicate nori. The luxurious, buttery texture of the toro contrasts beautifully with the sweet and tangy crunch of the takuan, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. The vibrant colors of the ingredients, coupled with the fragrant aroma of the nori, elevate this handroll into a sublime experience that is as visually appealing as it is delicious.


Sea Eel.

 

Tamago. A delicate Japanese omelet, sweet and savory, with a perfect balance of flavors. The rich, buttery texture melts in your mouth, while the subtle hints of dashi elevate its umami profile. Its golden hue glistens invitingly, a visual prelude to the harmonious experience awaiting the palate.

 

Gianduia and Peppermint Chip Gelato is a delightful blend of rich chocolate hazelnut and refreshing peppermint. The velvety texture envelops the palate, while the crisp chocolate flecks add an enticing crunch. Each spoonful presents a harmonious balance of sweet and minty flavors, evoking a sense of indulgence with every bite. The gelato’s glossy sheen and vibrant green specks invite you to savor its luxurious essence, making it a perfect treat for any occasion.


The wines.

Great evening with some really good sushi and not even that far away. We just have so much good sushi in town. We weren’t that full, so Erick and I went for second dinner. The delicate, glistening slices of fish melted in my mouth, their umami essence beautifully complemented by the subtle tang of wasabi, while the vibrant colors on the plate danced like art, inviting each bite with a promise of freshness and depth. The experience was a harmonious blend of flavors and textures, leaving a lingering satisfaction that beckoned for more.

Veuve Clicquot, renowned for its vibrant style, hails from the Champagne region of France. This 250th Anniversary Brut is a non-vintage blend that showcases the house’s signature Pinot Noir richness balanced with Chardonnay’s elegance. With notes of ripe apple, brioche, and a hint of citrus, it’s a celebratory wine that pairs beautifully with seafood and light appetizers.

In the background, other bottles hint at a diverse selection, likely featuring a mix of white and red varietals, showcasing a range of terroirs and styles. This variety allows for an exploration of flavors, from crisp, refreshing whites to bold, complex reds, making it a delightful experience for any wine enthusiast.

The Veuve Clicquot Brut, hailing from Champagne, France, is a celebrated non-vintage sparkling wine that epitomizes elegance and finesse. Known for its consistent quality, this cuvée showcases a harmonious blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, delivering a vibrant profile of ripe apple, pear, and subtle brioche notes. Perfectly paired with oysters or a classic seafood dish, it also complements festive occasions and light appetizers.

This particular bottle, celebrating the 250th anniversary of the house, adds a layer of history and tradition to its already illustrious reputation. The wine’s crisp acidity and fine mousse make it an ideal choice for toasting special moments, while its versatility allows it to shine alongside a wide array of culinary delights.

The Colli Stefani Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2020 is a vibrant white wine from the Marche region of Italy. With its zesty acidity and notes of green apple, citrus, and a hint of almond, it offers a refreshing palate that pairs beautifully with seafood dishes such as grilled prawns or a light risotto.

This wine’s crisp and elegant profile makes it an ideal companion for sharing a variety of antipasti, highlighting its versatility. The minerality and floral aromas enhance its appeal, making it a delightful choice for warm evenings or casual gatherings.

Uh oh — second dinner!

El Pastor: A tantalizing blend of marinated pork, pineapple, and fresh cilantro, served on soft corn tortillas. The vibrant colors of the dish catch the eye, while the aroma of charred meat mingles with the sweetness of pineapple, creating a mouthwatering anticipation. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of savory and sweet, with the tender pork complemented by the bright, zesty notes of cilantro, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for another taste.

The plate of weird meats. A curious medley of assorted cuts and flavors that challenges the palate. Each piece, distinct in texture and aroma, invites exploration, with savory notes mingling in a delightful dance. The vibrant hues of the meats, paired with a subtle char, create an enticing visual feast, while the rich umami undertones linger, leaving a memorable impression that beckons for another bite.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Lofty Sichuan

Jul20

Restaurant: Sichuan Street Food

Location: 91 E Green St, Pasadena, CA 91105. (626) 204-6333

Date: December 8, 2024

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Yucheng “Tony” Li

Rating: One of the better Sichuans, but annoying table layout

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Sichuan Street Food opened its doors on bustling Green Street in Old Pasadena in May 2024, the brain-child of Chengdu-born chef-owner Tony (Yucheng) Li and his wife, general manager Lynn Zhang. After years cooking at heavyweight San Gabriel Valley kitchens such as Chengdu Taste and Szechuan Impression, Li wanted a spot that focused less on banquet dishes and more on the hawker-stall specialties he grew up eating—quick, fiery snacks meant to be shared over laughter rather than ceremony. The couple financed the project themselves, keeping the footprint modest: a narrow 38-seat dining room fronted by an open show kitchen where fragrant woks flare behind a glass partition.


People have been talking about this “newish” Pasadena Szechuan place. It’s pretty casual.

Sichuan Street Food’s chef, Yong “Leo” Zhu, trained in the Chengdu restaurant scene for two decades, starting off as a dishwasher and busboy before slowly working his way up to an apprentice on the wok. Zhu spent years sweating over the flames at Kao Jiang, a restaurant franchise in Chengdu specializing in pan-roast fish. The 1,000-foot space drew a loyal following, with diners waiting in lines for their signature mouth-numbing fish. A Shanghai restaurateur took notice of Zhu’s skill and asked if he would be interested in bringing his talents to America. “I was really nervous,” said Zhu. “I was worried; how would I survive there?” But with confidence in his skills and a strong belief in himself, Zhu struck out to try his fortunes in Pasadena.

In the early 2010s, the Sichuan Renaissance in Los Angeles was spearheaded by the likes of Chengdu Taste and Sichuan Impression; the latter recently passed its 10-year mark, featuring such classics as boiled fish in rattan pepper and fu qi fei pian (sliced beef in chile sauce) on its anniversary special menu. The Sichuan scene has expanded to include specialists such as Mian in San Gabriel, which makes Chongqing-style noodle dishes, and hot pot restaurants like Shancheng Lameizi in Rowland Heights and HaiDiLao in Century City.

 

Li’s cooking marries the boisterous spirit of the chuan chuan stalls he grew up with to the ingredient-driven ethos of Southern California. His signature style pairs meticulous technique—house-roasted, single-origin Erjingtiao chiles ground daily; peppercorn oil cold-pressed to preserve the citrusy top notes—with bright local produce and unexpected textures. The duck-fat “malatang” hot pot, the cold rabbit terrine sprinkled with pixian chile ash, and the blister-fried avocado with fermented-black-bean vinaigrette have earned national notice: Eater named Sichuan Street Food one of the “15 Essential LA Restaurants” in 2021, and Li was a James Beard Award semifinalist in the Best Chef: California category the following year. He cites Yu Bo’s boundary-pushing presentations, Fuchsia Dunlop’s scholarship, and the produce-driven minimalism of Alice Waters as equal influences.

Guided by the idea that Sichuan cuisine is defined not by heaviness but by balance—ma (numbing), la (heat), xian (savory), and chen (aroma) held in dynamic tension—Li builds a menu that oscillates between nostalgia and innovation. Every plate has to satisfy what he calls the “bowl-of-rice test”: it must be delicious enough to justify a second helping of rice yet complex enough to stand alone. Sustainability and community weave through his decisions—spent chile oil is up-cycled into soap sold at the host stand, and a portion of profits funds culinary apprenticeships for first-generation immigrant cooks. In Li’s kitchen, tradition is not a boundary but a compass—a way to navigate the exuberant possibilities of California’s markets while staying true to the soul of Sichuan street food.


But they do have the “secret” upstairs “private” room.


Definitely the best seat in the house. This loft is absolutely key.

The menu at Sichuan Street Food features a vibrant selection of authentic Sichuan dishes, highlighting bold flavors and diverse ingredients. Diners can enjoy a variety of meat options including spicy chicken, tender lamb, and flavorful beef, alongside comforting soups such as Tomato and Egg Soup and Pork Trotter Soup. Additionally, the menu offers enticing snacks like Glutinous Rice Ball with Rice Wine and a range of fried rice dishes, making it a delightful destination for lovers of spicy and savory Chinese cuisine.

The Cucumber Salad. A very fresh version, but I like a bit more sauce. The vibrant green cucumbers glisten with a light dressing, their crisp texture providing a delightful snap that contrasts beautifully with the subtle acidity. Each bite releases a refreshing burst of flavor, enhanced by the aromatic notes of herbs that linger on the palate.

Dried Bean Curd Strips & Vegetable Salad. The sauce was really quite spicy. The vibrant array of fresh vegetables adds a delightful crunch, while the silky texture of the bean curd strips contrasts beautifully with the bold heat of the sauce, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. Each bite is a celebration of color and freshness, invigorated by the aromatic spices that linger in the air.

The restaurant’s interior exudes an unrefined charm, with stainless steel surfaces reflecting the warmth of overhead lights, creating an inviting yet bustling atmosphere. The scent of sizzling spices mingles with the sound of clattering pans, immersing diners in a sensory experience that heightens anticipation. Handwritten menus adorn the walls, offering a glimpse into the culinary passion at play, while the lively interaction between chefs adds an element of authenticity, making it clear that the heart of the dining experience lies in this vibrant, albeit chaotic, kitchen environment.


Interesting.


Garlic Pork Belly. Crack.

Sichuan crab (special order). This dish is a vibrant tapestry of flavors, where the tender, succulent crab meat is enveloped in a complex, spicy sauce that dances on the palate. The rich aroma of the Sichuan peppercorns mingles with the sweetness of the crab, while the bright red chilies add a pop of color and an inviting heat that lingers gently, inviting each bite to be savored.

Bullfrog with Sichuan Pepper and Chilis. Very nice flavor and very tender frog. The dish presents a vibrant interplay of colors, with the rich, earthy tones of the frog harmonizing beautifully with the fiery reds and greens of the chilis. Each bite delivers a delicate balance of tenderness and a piquant, numbing heat from the Sichuan pepper, awakening the palate with its aromatic complexity and inviting further exploration.

Drunken chicken with garlic sauce. The chicken was very scrawny and boney, but the sauce was a revelation. Its rich, aromatic garlic essence intertwined beautifully with a subtle hint of sweetness, enveloping the delicate meat in a silky embrace. The dish presented a vibrant contrast of colors, with the glossy sauce glistening against the pale chicken, inviting one to savor its complex layers of flavor and texture.


The garlic stuff was amazing; however.

Particularly when amping up the frog.

Dan Dan Noodles are a delightful blend of spicy, nutty, and savory flavors. The moment they hit your palate, the vibrant combination of sesame, chili oil, and ground pork creates a harmonious dance of textures, with the tender noodles providing a satisfying bite. The dish is visually striking, with the rich, reddish sauce glistening against the backdrop of fresh green scallions, inviting you to dive in. Each mouthful offers a complex interplay of heat and umami, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for more.


A very tasty and “refreshing” version.

Lamb with chilis: A tender cut of lamb, marinated and grilled to perfection, served with a vibrant chili sauce that adds a delightful kick. The rich, savory notes of the lamb harmonize beautifully with the bright, fiery essence of the chilis, creating a dish that is both comforting and exhilarating. The deep red hue of the sauce contrasts elegantly with the succulent meat, while the aroma of charred spices tantalizes the senses, inviting each bite to reveal layers of flavor that dance on the palate.

Mapo Tofu. Very good version with lots of MSG. The dish presents a vibrant red sauce, speckled with green scallions, that clings to the silky cubes of tofu. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of umami and spice, with the fragrant notes of Sichuan peppercorns awakening the palate, while the rich, velvety texture invites a deeper exploration of its bold flavors.

Cumin lamb. The dish features tender, marinated lamb infused with the earthy spice of cumin, served with a side of fragrant rice. The lamb is succulent, with a smoky depth that harmonizes beautifully with the warm, aromatic notes of the cumin. Each bite is a delightful explosion of flavor, complemented by the vibrant colors of the dish, with the rich hues of the lamb contrasted against the bright freshness of the herbs. The aroma is intoxicating, inviting you to savor the experience as it unfolds on your palate, revealing layers of complexity with every morsel.

Kung Pao Shrimp. Excellent. The vibrant colors of the dish beckon, while the enticing aroma of toasted peanuts and fragrant Sichuan peppercorns fills the air. Each succulent shrimp, perfectly cooked to tender perfection, is enveloped in a harmonious balance of sweet and savory notes, with a delightful crunch from the vegetables that adds a refreshing contrast to the rich, glossy sauce.

Boiled Beef with Green Chilis. Firey hot and numbing with a very silky beef flavor. Great. The dish presents a stunning contrast of vibrant green chilis against the tender, glistening beef, each bite releasing a savory warmth that envelops the palate. The silky texture of the beef harmonizes beautifully with the piquant heat, creating a delightful balance that lingers long after each mouthful.

Diced chicken with chilis. More like nuggets, instead of the usual very crunchy bits. The tender morsels, cloaked in a vibrant hue of crimson and gold, deliver a delightful contrast of textures, with a subtle heat that lingers gently on the palate. The aromatic spices entwine with the savory chicken, creating a harmonious balance that invites each bite to unfold like a culinary narrative.

Sichuan rice cakes are a delightful dish that showcases the bold and fiery essence of Sichuan cuisine. The chewy texture of the rice cakes perfectly contrasts with the vibrant, aromatic flavors of the accompanying sauce, which dances between spicy and savory notes. Each bite is a harmonious blend of heat and umami, with a subtle hint of garlic and the fragrant allure of Sichuan peppercorns that tantalize the palate. Visually, the dish is a feast for the eyes, with the glossy sauce enveloping the tender cakes, creating an inviting and appetizing presentation.

Sweet sesame ball soup is a delightful dessert that combines chewy, glutinous rice balls filled with sweet sesame paste, served in a warm, sweetened broth. The aroma of toasty sesame wafts enticingly, while the soup’s golden hue complements the delicate spheres that float gracefully within. Each bite reveals a wonderful contrast of textures, from the silky broth to the satisfying chew of the rice balls, creating a harmonious balance that is as comforting as it is indulgent.

Peppermint Chip and Dubai Chocolate Gelato—a delightful fusion that tantalizes the senses. The vibrant, minty freshness of the peppermint harmonizes beautifully with the rich, velvety texture of the Dubai chocolate, creating a luxurious indulgence. Each spoonful offers a refreshing coolness, complemented by the deep, complex notes of cocoa that linger on the palate, while the contrasting colors of pale green and dark chocolate create an enticing visual appeal. The aroma is a captivating blend of mint and chocolate, inviting you to savor every bite.

The 2014 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese from Joh. Jos. Prüm hails from the Mosel region of Germany, renowned for its exquisite Rieslings. This late harvest wine showcases a delicate balance of sweetness and acidity, offering notes of ripe peach, apricot, and a hint of minerality characteristic of its terroir. Pair it with spicy Asian dishes or a rich blue cheese for a delightful contrast that enhances both the food and wine.

Acclaimed for its elegance, this Spätlese is a perfect example of the Mosel’s ability to produce wines that are both complex and approachable, making it an excellent choice for a celebratory occasion or a quiet evening paired with dessert.

The Paul Bara Grand Rosé is a stunning Champagne from Bouzy, renowned for its rich terroir. This non-vintage offering showcases a harmonious blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, resulting in a vibrant pink hue. Its delicate bubbles dance on the palate, revealing notes of ripe strawberries and a hint of floral elegance, making it an exceptional choice for celebratory occasions or paired with a charcuterie board.

Originating from the esteemed Champagne region, the Grand Rosé is crafted with meticulous care, highlighting the minerality and complexity of the local soils. The vintage character adds depth, while the balanced acidity ensures a refreshing finish. Perfectly paired with seafood dishes or light appetizers, this wine elevates any dining experience with its effervescent charm.

Overall, this is a very good Sichuan place. It’s not as refined as Mountain, and the naming is a bit deceptive as the it’s really Chengdu casual restaurant food, not street food. Sichuan street food is more like spicy bean jelly noodles and rabbit head. Anyway, it’s a touch rustic but with an excellent kitchen. My biggest problem is that there is literally only one table in the restaurant I would want to eat at. I’m not a fan of the kind of small 2 and 4 top space downstairs.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Charming Chelsea

Jul18

Restaurant: The Chelsea

Location: 3110 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90404. (310) 393-6633

Date: December 5, 2024

Cuisine: New American

Chef: Mark French

Rating: Very good

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Opened in 2019 on the steadily reviving stretch of Wilshire Boulevard, The Chelsea was created by longtime Santa Monica residents Katie and Mark French, a front-of-house/chef partnership that had cut its teeth in celebrated kitchens from Napa to New York before deciding to build something of their own in their home neighborhood. They took over a low-slung mid-century building, kept the bones, and invested nearly a year restoring the terrazzo floors and hand-staining the cedar rafters. Their guiding idea—reflected in the restaurant’s name—was to marry the casual elegance of London and Manhattan’s Chelsea districts with the sun-splashed ease of coastal California. What began as a 50-seat passion project is still owner-operated; on almost any night you’ll find Katie working the room while Mark expedites from the open kitchen.

The Chelsea’s menu is anchored in a farmers-market rhythm: vegetables come from the Wednesday Santa Monica market five blocks away, seafood is trucked in daily from Morro Bay, and meats are sourced from small, pasture-based ranches. Technique skews European—house-made pastas, a wood-fired grill, a dedicated raw-bar counter—but flavors lean brightly Californian, with citrus, herbs, and chiles popping up even in the charcuterie. The room mirrors that blend of polish and breezy charm: whitewashed brick, pocket-sized banquettes in navy leather, a bar lined with unlacquered brass, and front windows that accordion open to a sidewalk patio perfumed by rosemary planters. Subtle nods to its namesake boroughs—vintage London Underground posters, black-and-white photos of the High Line—add personality without tipping into theme-park territory.

Within a few months of opening, The Chelsea found itself a linchpin of Santa Monica’s mid-Wilshire dining corridor, drawing equal parts neighborhood regulars, industry types on nights off, and beach-bound visitors hunting something “local but special.” The LA Times praised it for “delivering the rare Westside balance of ambition and affordability,” and Eater included it in its annual “38 Essential” list for Los Angeles. Seasonal tasting dinners, half-price oyster Mondays, and collaborations with nearby craft brewers have only deepened its community roots. In a city where trends can burn hot and fade fast, The Chelsea’s mix of owner presence, ingredient integrity, and unfussy sophistication has effectively secured it a seat at the table of enduring Santa Monica favorites.
Chef-partner Mark French presides over the stoves at The Chelsea, the breezy Wilshire Boulevard brasserie that has quickly become one of Santa Monica’s most talked-about dining rooms. A Venice native, French graduated from the CIA at Hyde Park and cut his teeth on both coasts: first as a line cook at Spago Beverly Hills, then as a saucier at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon in Yountville, and finally as chef de partie at Eleven Madison Park in New York. Returning home in 2018, he spent two formative years running the wood-fire station at Jeremy Fox’s Rustic Canyon, an experience that cemented his devotion to market-driven cooking and whole-animal butchery. Those credentials, plus a stint staging at London’s Michelin-starred The Harwood Arms, explain the Anglo-Californian DNA that now defines The Chelsea’s menu.

Attractive room, very close to my house.

French’s cooking marries Santa Monica Farmers’ Market produce with the casual elegance of a modern London gastropub. His signatures—black-barley risotto layered with Weiser Family Farms carrots and aged Gouda; oak-grilled lamb saddle with mint-chimichurri and preserved Meyer lemon; and an already-famed sticky toffee pudding finished with buffalo-milk ice cream—showcase bright coastal flavors, meticulous technique, and just enough comfort to keep things convivial. Influences range from Alice Waters’ insistence on pristine ingredients to Fergus Henderson’s nose-to-tail ethic, filtered through the precision he learned under Daniel Humm. The approach has earned French a 2023 James Beard “Best Chef: West” semifinalist nod, a Michelin Bib Gourmand in the guide’s inaugural Los Angeles edition, and a perennial spot on Eater LA’s “Essential 38” list.

Guiding it all is a zero-waste, hyper-seasonal philosophy French calls “market first, story second.” Every morning begins at the nearby farmers’ stalls, where the day’s haul dictates the menu rather than the other way around. Trim becomes broths or ferments, fish bones morph into umami-rich garum, and even cocktail infusions are built from kitchen scraps—practices that speak to French’s belief that sustainability and flavor are inseparable. “If an ingredient travelled fewer than fifty miles and tells you something about this coast, it belongs on the plate,” he likes to say. The result is a restaurant that feels deeply rooted in Santa Monica yet worldly in perspective, where locals drop in for a pint and a Scotch egg, and gastronomes cross town for tasting menus that trace California’s seasons one nuanced, deceptively simple dish at a time.


The menu.

The Louis Jadot Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la Croix de Pierre 2005 is a remarkable expression from Burgundy, showcasing the region’s hallmark elegance and complexity. This Chardonnay presents a bouquet of ripe citrus, white flowers, and subtle oak, complemented by a vibrant acidity. Its rich, creamy texture and lingering minerality make it an ideal pair for grilled lobster with herb butter or a creamy risotto.

Harissa Lamb Tartare: rustic bread, mint aioli, crispy capers. Delicious. The vibrant colors of the dish are complemented by the rich, earthy notes of the lamb, while the mint aioli adds a refreshing herbal brightness. Each bite delivers a delightful contrast in textures, from the tender tartare to the crunchy capers, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate.

Crispy Lobster Sliders: arugula, truffle aioli, Hawaiian roll. Awesome! These sliders present a delightful contrast of textures, with the crispiness of the lobster juxtaposed against the soft, slightly sweet Hawaiian roll. The earthy aroma of truffle aioli envelops the palate, while the peppery notes of arugula add a refreshing brightness, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the senses.

Escargot Stuffed Mushrooms: pecorino polenta. These delicate mushrooms cradle the luxurious escargot within, creating a harmonious blend of earthiness and richness. The creamy pecorino polenta adds a velvety texture, while the fragrant aroma of garlic and herbs enchants the senses, inviting you to savor each delightful bite.

Roasted Beet & Heirloom Tomato Salad: goat cheese crouton, shaved arugula, balsamic reduction. This vibrant salad is a feast for the eyes, with the deep ruby reds of roasted beets contrasting beautifully against the bright, sun-kissed heirloom tomatoes. The creamy goat cheese crouton adds a luxurious texture, while the peppery arugula provides a refreshing bite, all harmoniously tied together by the rich, tangy notes of the balsamic reduction.

SWEET CORN & RICOTTA RAVIOLI. Thai green curry. I really enjoyed the curry pasta vibe. The delicate ravioli, a vibrant hue of golden yellow, bursts with the sweetness of corn and the creamy richness of ricotta. Encased within a tender shell, the dish is elevated by the aromatic notes of the Thai green curry, which adds a harmonious balance of heat and freshness, creating a delightful interplay of flavors and textures on the palate.

Spring Risotto: chanterelle, cremini, asparagus, arugula pesto, lemon, pecorino. Quite lovely. The risotto is a vibrant green, flecked with earthy mushrooms and bright asparagus, inviting you to indulge. Each creamy bite reveals a delightful interplay of nutty pecorino and zesty lemon, while the arugula pesto adds a peppery freshness that lingers on the palate.

Norwegian Ocean Trout: baby winter veggies, rosemary fingerling potatoes, chardonnay dill sauce. The trout glistens with a delicate sheen, its rich, buttery flavor beautifully complemented by the herbal notes of rosemary and the subtle acidity of the chardonnay dill sauce. Each bite is a harmonious blend of tender flesh and crisp vegetables, creating a symphony of textures that dance on the palate.

Kung Pao Brussels Sprouts: whipped tofu, soy, chili, ginger, garlic, peanuts, sesame. The vibrant green of the Brussels sprouts contrasts beautifully with the creamy whipped tofu, while the fragrant notes of ginger and garlic dance on the palate. Each bite delivers a delightful crunch from the peanuts, harmonizing with the umami-rich soy and a gentle heat from the chili, creating an exquisite balance of flavors and textures that lingers pleasantly on the tongue.

The dessert menu at The Chelsea features a delightful array of innovative and indulgent dishes, showcasing a blend of classic and contemporary flavors. Highlights include the rich Chocolate & Peanut Butter Turnover served with vanilla bean ice cream, the refreshing Ricotta Cheesecake infused with blackberry and rosemary, and the unique Chocolate Matcha Cake with dark chocolate ganache. For a twist on tradition, the Honey Polenta Cake with orange marmalade and lavender cream adds a fragrant touch, while the playful Grown-Up Milk & Cookies offers a nostalgic yet sophisticated treat.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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