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Fine Fitoor

Aug01

Restaurant: Fitoor

Location: 115 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401. (310) 829-7200

Date: February 7 & March 27, 2025

Cuisine: Indian

Chef: Pawan Mahendro

Rating: Very tasty and bold

Fitoor opened on the western edge of downtown Santa Monica in late 2023 as the follow-up project from chef-patriarch Pawan Mahendro and his sons Nakul and Arjun, the family behind L.A.’s cult Indian gastropub Badmaash. After a decade of hearing Westsiders ask when they would bring their cooking closer to the beach, the trio took over a soaring former wine bar, christened it with the Urdu word for “burning obsession,” and installed three wood-fired tandoors that give both the room and the food a literal glow. The result is a restaurant whose mission is very Cal-Indian: marry the produce of the nearby farmers market with the smoke, pickles, and spice of the subcontinent, but do it in a way that feels as breezy as the ocean only a few blocks away.

The menu skews seasonal and shareable—think charred delicata squash finished with jaggery and ghee, whole Santa Barbara spot prawns bathed in green-mango achaar butter, and a rotating roster of market vegetables roasted under smoldering embers. Cocktails riff on the same dialogue, folding curry leaves into a gin sour or sandalwood into an agave-forward old-fashioned, while a concise natural-leaning wine list is built to tame chilies and smoke. Designer Bells & Whistles wrapped the 90-seat room in peacock-blue banquettes, hammered brass, and carved jali screens, striking a balance between Mumbai glam and coastal California ease; a sidewalk patio pulls in salt air and sunset light.

In a city where most contemporary Indian cooking had clustered east of the 405, Fitoor immediately reshaped the Westside conversation. Early raves from the Los Angeles Times and Eater positioned it as both a destination restaurant and a neighborhood hangout, proving that Indian flavors can be plated with the same produce-driven finesse—and served in the same design-forward setting—as any of Santa Monica’s coastal Mediterranean or New-American hotspots. Within months it became a catalytic address, coaxing diners, chefs, and cocktail pros alike to see Indian cuisine not as a late-night craving but as one of L.A.’s most vibrant, modern, and versatile food languages.

Chef Pawan Mahendro, the culinary patriarch behind the Mahendro family’s growing Los Angeles empire, now presides over the stoves at Fitoor in Santa Monica. Born in Amritsar, he earned his stripes in India’s luxury-hotel circuit—stints at Oberoi properties and the Taj Group—before emigrating to Toronto, where he helmed the beloved Copper Chimney and later opened his own place, Chef of India. In 2013 he joined his sons Nakul and Arjun to launch Badmaash in downtown L.A., a boundary-pushing Punjabi gastropub that landed on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list for multiple years and helped redefine modern Indian cooking in Southern California. Fitoor, which opened in 2023 a few blocks from the Pacific, is the family’s most ambitious dining room yet and gives Pawan a dedicated stage for the refined techniques he has been honing for nearly five decades.

Mahendro’s signature style lies at the intersection of classic North-Indian flavors and the ingredient-driven ethos of coastal California. At Fitoor that translates to Santa Barbara spot prawns quickly kissed in the tandoor and glossed with chile-garlic ghee, lamb nalli nihari slow-braised over mesquite, and delicate vegetable dishes that pivot with the Santa Monica farmers’ market. His influences range from the street-food vendors of Old Delhi to the exacting French brigade system he studied in hotel school; the result is food that feels both emotionally familiar and quietly technical. Eater L.A. has already named Fitoor one of the city’s “Most Anticipated” openings, and local critics routinely single out Mahendro’s sauces and stocks—built on long, layered reductions—for particular praise.

Guiding the menu is a simple philosophy the chef sums up as “tradition, obsession, and California sunshine.” Tradition supplies the canon: time-honored garam masalas hand-ground each morning and breads stretched to order against the walls of a clay oven. Obsession is the relentless pursuit of depth—tasting every batch of makhani sauce until the fenugreek hum is perfectly calibrated, or refusing to send out a biryani until the rice grains steam into distinct, perfumed strands. And California sunshine means cooking with the immediacy of place: pristine produce, sustainable seafood, grass-fed meats, and a respect for seasonality that keeps the menu in constant, playful motion. In Mahendro’s hands, Fitoor becomes less a restaurant than a love letter—to India, to his adopted coast, and to the restless, joyful act of cooking itself.

House space.

The menu.

The Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois is a refined Champagne from the renowned Épernay region, crafted with a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes. The 2012 vintage showcases a unique depth and complexity, with notes of toasted brioche, ripe apple, and subtle hints of spice. This elegant sparkling wine pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly oysters or grilled fish, enhancing the meal with its fine bubbles and crisp acidity.

From the iconic house of Billecart-Salmon, this Champagne reflects the terroir of the Champagne region, with a focus on traditional methods and minimal intervention. The oak aging adds a layer of richness, making it a perfect companion for rich cheeses and charcuterie, elevating your dining experience with its harmonious balance and lingering finish.

Silken Yogurt Kebab: cream cheese, coriander chutney. Filled with cream cheese and super delicious. The delicate texture of the kebab melts in your mouth, while the vibrant coriander chutney adds a refreshing contrast, enhancing the dish’s rich creaminess. The interplay of flavors is both satisfying and subtle, inviting you to savor each exquisite bite.

Bombay Papdi Bhel: puffed rice, mint & dates chutney. Dry texture, crunchy, with a good flavor. The vibrant green of the mint chutney mingles beautifully with the golden hue of the puffed rice, creating a feast for the eyes. Each bite bursts with a delightful contrast of textures, the crispiness of the rice harmonizing with the luscious sweetness of the dates, while the mint adds a refreshing aroma that lingers on the palate.

Achari Paneer Tikka: pickle, olive tapenade. Delicious, but super rich and actually a little bit spicy. The vibrant hues of the marinated paneer contrast beautifully with the deep, earthy tones of the olive tapenade, creating a visually stunning dish. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of tangy, umami flavors, while the subtle heat lingers pleasantly on the palate, inviting another taste.

Tandoori Curry Leaf Prawns: curry leaf, tobiko, tempered buttermilk. Lovely. The foamy dairy was awesome too. The vibrant orange hue of the prawns captivates the eye, while the fragrant curry leaves impart a subtle earthiness. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of textures, from the crispy tobiko to the creamy buttermilk, creating a harmonious dance of flavors that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Coastal Flame Scallops: Sri Lankan fish curry, black tobiko. Nice and clean. The scallops are perfectly seared, showcasing a delicate caramelization that enhances their natural sweetness, while the vibrant black tobiko adds a delightful crunch. The dish is elevated by the aromatic layers of the Sri Lankan fish curry, which imparts a subtle heat and earthy complexity, enveloping the palate in a harmonious embrace of bold flavors and textures.

Chicken Koliwada. Fried chicken poppers, chili dust.

Avocado Burrata Chaat. Avocado mixed with burrata cheese and Indian spices. Topped with nylon sev and mango and berry coulis.

Pulled Butter Chicken Kulcha: herb butter, micro greens. Naan with butter chicken — what’s not to like? The rich, unctuous flavor of the butter chicken melds seamlessly with the herbaceous notes of the butter, creating a delightful harmony that dances on the palate. The golden kulcha, perfectly crisp on the outside yet pillowy soft within, invites you to indulge in every savory bite, while the vibrant microgreens add a refreshing burst of color and freshness to the experience.

Truffle Mushroom Kulcha. Fluffy kulcha stuffed with cheese, savory mushrooms & earthy truffle.

The Piano di Montevergine Taurasi 2010 from Feudi di San Gregorio is a captivating expression of the Campania region. This Aglianico-based wine boasts deep, dark fruit aromas interwoven with notes of leather, spice, and hints of minerality. On the palate, it is robust yet refined, offering a velvety texture and well-integrated tannins, making it an excellent pairing for rich meats like braised lamb or aged cheeses.

This vintage reflects the terroir beautifully, showcasing the complexity and aging potential characteristic of Taurasi wines. With its structured profile and lingering finish, it invites a contemplative sip, ideal for savoring alongside hearty Italian dishes or a charcuterie board.

Kashmiri Gucchi Risotto: morel mushrooms, truffle oil. This risotto was to die for — super creamy. The rich, earthy aroma of the morel mushrooms intertwined beautifully with the luxurious truffle oil, creating a symphony of umami that lingered delightfully on the palate. Its velvety texture and vibrant color made every spoonful an indulgent experience, reminiscent of a warm embrace on a cool evening.

Alleppey Prawn & Fish Curry. Coconut, curry leaf. The dish presents a vibrant medley of flavors, where the richness of coconut envelops the tender prawns and fish, creating a harmonious balance. The fragrant curry leaves impart a subtle earthiness, while the dish’s enticing aroma evokes the warm embrace of coastal Indian cuisine. Each spoonful reveals a symphony of textures, from the silky sauce to the succulent seafood, making this a truly delightful experience for the palate.

The Curry itself had a bit of a Thai curry vibe. Quite lovely flavor actually.

Asado Branzino Filet. mint pesto, potato salli.

Traditional Chicken Seekh Masala: Onion tomato masala. Rich and delicious. Instead of the usual grilled chicken, this was spiced chicken kebab — even better. The vibrant hues of the masala envelop the tender kebabs, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of spices, with earthy undertones and a subtle smokiness that lingers delightfully, complemented by the sweet acidity of the onion-tomato base.

Lamb Shank Rogan Josh chili threads, micro greens, rogan. Very nice. The sauce was slightly thin though. The dish boasts a rich, earthy aroma, with the tender lamb shank enveloped in a vibrant, crimson-hued sauce that hints at the depth of spices within. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of warmth and complexity, complemented by the delicate crunch of microgreens and the subtle heat of chili threads, creating a delightful interplay of textures and flavors.

Peshawari Lamb Seekh Kebab. Minced lamb flavored with Peshawari spices, cooked in the tandoor and served with horseradish thecha, mint foam and yogurt onions.

Traditional Chicken Seekh Masala. Chicken kebabs served in an onion, tomato and cashew masala. Garnished with crumbled pistachio and cashews. *spicy*

Garlic Naan is a warm, pillowy flatbread infused with aromatic garlic, making it the perfect companion to any curry. The golden-brown crust is slightly crisp, giving way to a soft and chewy interior that carries a subtle hint of char. As you tear into it, the delightful fragrance of roasted garlic wafts through the air, inviting you to savor each bite. The gentle interplay of flavors, with the savory garlic notes balanced by a touch of buttery richness, creates a harmonious experience that elevates the entire meal.

Dessert menu.

Chocolate Nemesis. Orange mousse, jaggery ice cream. Really delicious and very soft. The velvety richness of the chocolate is beautifully complemented by the bright citrus notes of the orange mousse, creating a delightful contrast that dances on the palate. The jaggery ice cream adds a subtle caramel sweetness, enhancing the overall experience with its creamy texture and inviting warmth.

Overall, a pretty delicious place. Very updated and not as heavy as most Indian.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Fitoor, Foodie Club, Indian, Indian fusion, Santa Monica

Dong Bei BBQ

Jul30

Restaurant: Dongbei Bbq

Location: 639 W Garvey Ave, Monterey Park, CA 91754. (626) 280-1718

Date: February 2, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Leo Zhao

Rating: Tasty but empty

This new Chinese BBQ place takes over for the more ambitious “silk worm” place. They may be from similar regions.

It did get a bit of a decor upgrade.

Peanuts.

Century egg and tofu. Pretty delicious. The century egg, with its glossy, dark jade exterior, offers a rich, umami flavor that beautifully contrasts with the silky smooth texture of the tofu. Together, they create a harmonious balance, where the earthy notes of the century egg mingle with the delicate, subtle freshness of the tofu, resulting in a dish that is both intriguing and satisfying to the palate.

The 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Réserve des Deux Frères is a bold expression of the Southern Rhône, showcasing ripe black fruit, herbes de Provence, and a hint of spice. Its full-bodied style is complemented by velvety tannins and a long, warming finish, making it an exquisite match for hearty dishes like lamb stew or grilled meats.

This wine exemplifies the unique terroir of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with its gnarled vines and diverse grape varieties. The vintage’s warmth has resulted in a rich, concentrated wine that offers layers of complexity, perfect for sipping now or cellaring for additional development.

Smashed Cucumbers and Garlic. This dish features vibrant, crisp cucumbers tossed with pungent garlic, creating a refreshing and invigorating combination. The cucumbers, with their bright green hue, are crushed to release their juices, mingling beautifully with the aromatic garlic, which adds depth and warmth. Each bite offers a delightful crunch, a contrast to the silky mouthfeel of the garlic-infused dressing, making it a perfect accompaniment to any meal.

Salad of some kind of pork bit. Really bright flavors. The dish presents a vibrant medley of colors, with each ingredient harmoniously contributing to a refreshing burst of taste. The tender pork, delicately seasoned, contrasts beautifully with crisp greens, while the lively acidity invigorates the palate, creating a delightful interplay of textures and aromas.

Skewers, probably beef.

Pork belly and probably lamb.

Some other meat.

The 2011 Selbach-Oster Riesling Anrecht hails from the Mosel region of Germany, showcasing the elegance of its terroir. This wine is a delightful off-dry style, with vibrant acidity balancing notes of ripe stone fruits, citrus, and a hint of minerality. It pairs beautifully with spicy Asian dishes, seafood, or rich poultry, enhancing flavors while providing a refreshing contrast.

Mushrooms in “soup.” This dish offers a delightful interplay of earthy fungi nestled within a velvety broth, creating a comforting embrace for the senses. The deep, umami notes of the mushrooms harmonize beautifully with the aromatic undertones of the soup, while the rich, creamy texture coats the palate, leaving a lingering warmth that invites you to savor each spoonful.

Shrimp, skin, and corn.

Leeks. I really enjoy these.

Crunchy bits from animals.

Seafood.

Hot Dogs — delicious. These iconic street food staples boast a satisfying snap when bitten into, revealing a juicy interior that bursts with savory flavors. The smoky aroma wafts through the air, inviting you to indulge in their comforting warmth, while the golden-brown bun cradles the sausage perfectly, offering a delightful contrast in texture.

Hard to eat crab, I think.

Scallops.

Meats and fish.

More meats.

Not sure. Hard to remember.

Stuffed peppers are a delightful medley of flavors, combining savory ingredients that dance harmoniously within a tender, roasted shell. The vibrant hues of the peppers, ranging from deep crimson to sunny yellow, draw the eye, while the fragrant aroma of herbs wafts enticingly from the dish. Each bite reveals a luscious filling that melds the creaminess of cheese with the earthiness of spices, creating a satisfying contrast to the crisp exterior. The slight char from roasting adds an alluring smokiness, elevating the experience to a symphony of taste and texture that lingers on the palate.

Bones.

The Selbach-Oster 2011 Riesling Anrecht hails from the Mosel region of Germany, showcasing the elegance and minerality characteristic of the area. This off-dry style offers notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a hint of petrol, seamlessly balanced with vibrant acidity. It pairs beautifully with spicy Asian dishes, seafood, or light poultry preparations, enhancing the overall dining experience.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Chinese cuisine, Dongbei BBQ, SGV, Sunday Chinese, Wine

Getting Steamy

Jul28

Restaurant: Youpeng Seafood

Location: 18558 Gale Ave Ste 186, City of Industry, CA 91748. *unknown*

Date: January 25, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Wang Qiang

Rating: Interesting, but a touch “boring”

Youpeng Seafood opened its doors in 2017, tucked into the corner of Pacific Plaza on Gale Avenue—an unassuming strip-mall location that belies its ambitious scope. The restaurant is the personal project of Tianjin-born chef-owner Wang Qiang, who spent years cooking for the historic Gou-Bu-Li dumpling company before relocating to the San Gabriel Valley. By christening the place “Youpeng” (“friends from afar”) and adding the English tag “Go Believe,” Wang signaled both a nod to his dumpling-house pedigree and a promise to do things his own way. Still family-run, the business sees Wang on the line, his wife Jiang Lihua managing the dining room, and their two adult children handling sourcing and day-to-day logistics.

The menu marries northern Chinese dough craftsmanship with the live-tank seafood culture that dominates the local Cantonese scene. Pork-and-scallop dumplings vie for attention with ginger-steamed rockfish, hand-pulled noodles swirl around chunks of Dungeness crab, and xiao long bao wrappers are rolled only after an order is placed. The room—about 70 seats—was remodeled in 2021; dark slate tiles, low lanterns shaped like folded dumplings, and a line of luminous tanks full of spot prawns and geoduck create a mood that is equal parts working kitchen and quiet theater.

Within the San Gabriel Valley’s crowded constellation of regional Chinese specialists, Youpeng Seafood occupies a distinctive middle ground: finer than the neighboring dumpling shops, more intimate than the banquet halls of Monterey Park, and, crucially, open late. Word-of-mouth and WeChat chatter have made up for the lack of an official website, drawing multigenerational local families, night-owl industry workers, and freeway-hopping food hunters. Five years in, the restaurant has become a reference point for how northern techniques can inform Southern California seafood, anchoring itself as a small but influential star in the greater L.A. dining conversation.

A new “steam table” place. This is like hot pot, but all steamed at the table. It’s located next to Wagyu X.

Smashed cucumbers. Bright, crunchy cucumbers are lightly smashed and tossed with a tangy dressing that brings out their natural sweetness and adds a delightful crunch. The dish is a refreshing explosion of flavors, where the subtle earthiness of the cucumbers is enhanced by the zesty notes, creating a vibrant contrast on the palate. Each bite offers a satisfying texture, with the colors and aromas inviting you to indulge in this simple yet exquisite creation.

Cloud ear mushroom.

Here is the steam device.

Dumplings. These delightful morsels are a harmony of flavors, encasing a savory filling within a tender, pillowy wrapper. Each bite offers a delicate balance of texture, with the soft exterior giving way to a rich and aromatic filling that dances on the palate. The subtle fragrance of steamed dough combined with the umami notes from the filling creates an inviting experience, beckoning you to indulge further.

Pork hock is a dish that showcases a beautifully braised cut of meat, tender and succulent. The rich aroma of slow-cooked pork wafts through the air, inviting you to indulge in its savory depths. The exterior is perfectly crisp, offering a satisfying contrast to the melt-in-your-mouth interior, while the deep, caramelized flavors are enhanced by a hint of smokiness. Each bite reveals a delightful interplay of textures, from the crunchy skin to the luscious fat, making for a truly comforting experience.

Spicy Chicken is a tantalizing dish that ignites the palate with its fiery blend of spices. The succulent pieces of chicken are enveloped in a vibrant, glossy marinade that hints at the warmth of chili and the aromatic depth of garlic. As you take a bite, the tender meat releases a symphony of flavors—smoky, savory, and just the right amount of heat—while the enticing fragrance lingers in the air, inviting you to savor every morsel.

Crab and noodles (steamed). The delicate sweetness of the crab beautifully complements the tender, slightly chewy noodles, creating a harmonious blend of flavors. The dish presents a visual feast, with the vibrant hues of the crab contrasting against the soft, inviting tones of the noodles, while the aroma is an enticing invitation to indulge in this seafood delight.

Steamed dumplings. More steamed dumplings. These delicate parcels are a delightful combination of tender dough and savory filling that bursts with flavor. The glossy sheen of the dumpling skin hints at the moist, aromatic filling within, while each bite reveals a harmonious blend of subtle spices and umami richness. The interplay of textures, from the pillowy exterior to the succulent interior, creates a satisfying experience that is both comforting and captivating.

Lobster (steamed) with garlic. The sweet, succulent meat of the lobster is beautifully complemented by the aromatic richness of the garlic, creating a luxurious dish that delights the senses. The vibrant coral hue of the lobster contrasts elegantly with the golden flecks of garlic, while the tender texture of the meat melts in your mouth, releasing a delicate brininess that lingers on the palate.

After steaming.

Scallops with garlic (steam). The delicate sweetness of the scallops is beautifully complemented by the aromatic embrace of garlic, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the palate. The tender, buttery texture of the scallops contrasts gracefully with the subtle earthiness of the garlic, while the dish presents a stunning visual appeal, glistening with a light sheen that invites you to savor each exquisite bite.

Uni. Not so great.

Oysters (steamed). These delicate morsels, glistening with a silken sheen, offer a briny burst of the ocean with each tender bite. The gentle warmth enhances their natural sweetness, while the subtle hints of seaweed and mineral undertones create a harmonious balance, inviting a deeper appreciation for their exquisite texture and flavor profile.

Beef noodle soup is a warm and comforting dish that envelops you in its rich, savory broth and tender beef. The deep, umami notes of the stock harmonize beautifully with the delicate strands of noodles, creating a delightful interplay of textures. Each spoonful offers a fragrant bouquet of spices, while the vibrant colors of fresh herbs and vegetables add a refreshing brightness to the bowl, inviting you to savor its depth and complexity.

Veggies.

Fried rice is a beloved dish that brings comfort and nostalgia. The grains are perfectly cooked, each one a canvas for the vibrant medley of vegetables that accompany it. As you take a bite, the subtle umami of the soy sauce mingles with the sweetness of the peas and the crunch of the carrots, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate. The dish is beautifully presented, with its golden grains glistening under a sprinkle of fresh herbs, inviting you to dive in and savor every mouthful.

Well this was a new format, like hot pot but with steam as the broth — steam, however, doesn’t taste like much — so I’ll stick with my ultra-spicy hot pot.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Chinese Food, dumplings, hedonists, Seafood, SGV, Wine, Youpeng Seafood Go Believe

More Electric Playground

Jul26

Here is another blast from the past with an episode of Electric Playground I and the Naughty Dog team filmed back in 2001!

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My novels: The Darkening Dream and Untimed
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By: agavin
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Divine Damien

Jul26

Restaurant: Damian

Location: 2132 E 7th Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90021. *unknown*

Date: December 29, 2024

Cuisine: Mexican

Chef: Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes

Rating: Surprisingly good

Damian opened in October 2020 at the height of the pandemic, the long-anticipated West Coast project of celebrated Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera and his Casamata partners Santiago Pérez and Jesús Durón (the team behind Pujol, Cosme and Atla). Guided day-to-day by chef de cuisine Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes, the kitchen pursues Olvera’s signature ideology: honor Mexican traditions, then nudge them forward with rigorous technique, disciplined restraint and an obsessive respect for local product. Corn from small Oaxacan farms is nixtamalized in-house for blue-gray tortillas; Baja kampachi is cured with house-made seaweed garum; guava-glazed pork cheek meets smoked date and California greens. The cooking feels unmistakably Mexican yet absolutely rooted in Southern California seasonality, with an undercurrent of Japanese precision that reflects Olvera’s long fascination with that cuisine.

Set inside a former Arts District warehouse, the dining room balances industrial bones—exposed trusses, poured concrete, clerestory windows—with warm Mexican materials: volcanic stone, terrazzo, reclaimed parota wood and a copper-sheathed bar that glows like a hearth. Lush potted nopales and hanging philodendrons soften the geometry, while floor-to-ceiling glass sliders open onto a cactus-lined patio where mezcal cocktails mingle with the aroma of mesquite smoke from the adjoining taco window, Ditroit. The atmosphere is polished but relaxed, a place where vinyl spins softly, servers move with quiet confidence and the boundary between fine dining and neighborhood hangout blurs.

In a city already rich with Mexican food, Damian has carved out a singular niche—an Arts District flagship for modern, produce-driven alta cocina that converses as easily with growers at the Santa Monica farmers’ market as with maíz custodians in Oaxaca. Since debuting, it has attracted both destination diners and industry peers, earning glowing reviews from the Los Angeles Times and a spot on multiple national “best new restaurant” lists. Its presence reinforces downtown L.A.’s reputation as the region’s most experimental dining quarter, and it signals that Los Angeles, not New York, is now the proving ground for the next evolution of Olvera’s restless culinary imagination.

Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes first walked into Enrique Olvera’s Pujol in Mexico City as an extern straight out of culinary school; within a decade he had risen to chef-de-cuisine at Cosme in New York, earning a reputation for marrying exacting French technique with the soulfulness of Mexican home cooking. Born in Guadalajara and raised on the markets of Jalisco, Cervantes absorbed the lessons of coastal seafood, live-fire cookery and the primacy of masa long before he set foot in a professional kitchen. Stints at Olvera’s Atla and a formative stage at Noma further broadened his pantry—introducing Nordic fermentations, zero-waste discipline and a reverence for hyper-local produce. When Olvera tapped him to lead Damian in downtown L.A.’s Arts District, Cervantes arrived with a toolkit that spanned three countries and a Rolodex of West Coast farmers and fisher-folk eager to collaborate.

At Damian he cooks as much for Los Angeles as he does for Mexico: uni tostadas arrive on blue-corn masa nixtamalized in-house, Baja kampachi is cured in citrus grown a few blocks away, and al-pastor marinade becomes the lacquer for Santa Barbara spot prawns instead of pork. The signature style is spare, almost Japanese in its restraint—smoke, acid and chile used for lift rather than heat—yet every plate nods to the memories of a taquería or marisquería. Recognition has followed quickly: a place on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best,” inclusion in the Michelin Guide’s California selection, and an Eater “Best New Restaurants in America” citation, with Cervantes himself named a StarChefs Rising Star in 2022. His guiding philosophy is that tradition is a living organism—one fed by migration, seasonality and dialogue. “If it doesn’t honor the ingredient or the people who grew it, it doesn’t go on the menu,” he says; that mantra keeps Damian simultaneously rooted in Mexico and flourishing in the cultural polyglot that is downtown L.A.

We ordered the whole menu!

We had the special private “nook” at the back of the place.

This is the chips equivalent. Pretty spicy sauces, actually.

Cesar Tostada Boquerones, Parmigiano. This dish features a delightful combination of flavors, with the crispy tostada providing a satisfying crunch, while the marinated boquerones add a briny freshness that dances on the palate. The Parmigiano brings a rich, nutty undertone that beautifully complements the overall taste. The vibrant colors and artful presentation entice the senses, making each bite a harmonious blend of textures and flavors that evoke a sense of culinary sophistication.

Carrot Aguachile Blue Shrimp, Sal de Gusano. This dish features vibrant blue shrimp marinated in a refreshing carrot aguachile, complemented by the unique touch of sal de gusano. The bright orange hues of the aguachile beautifully contrast with the delicate pink of the shrimp, creating a visually stunning presentation. Each bite bursts with a harmonious balance of sweetness and acidity, while the earthy undertones of the sal de gusano add a sophisticated depth, elevating the overall experience to a delightful exploration of flavors and textures.

Salmon Tostada golden tomato, chicatana ants. This dish is a vibrant celebration of flavors, where the rich, buttery salmon contrasts beautifully with the bright acidity of golden tomatoes. The crunch of the tostada provides a delightful textural element, while the chicatana ants add an intriguing earthiness, evoking the essence of the Mexican landscape. The aroma is a harmonious blend of fresh ocean notes and herbaceous undertones, making each bite a captivating experience that dances on the palate.

Ceviche Ginger Turnip Relish, Green Tomato – A vibrant dish that combines the refreshing zing of ceviche with the subtle sweetness of ginger and the earthiness of turnip relish, accented by the bright notes of green tomato. The interplay of textures is delightful, with the tender fish contrasting beautifully against the crispness of the relish. Each bite is a harmonious balance of acidity and sweetness, awakening the palate with its aromatic bouquet and lively colors, inviting you to savor the essence of the sea and garden in every mouthful.

Prawns a la Parrilla Sal de Mar – Grilled prawns seasoned with sea salt. The prawns are succulent, with a slight char that enhances their natural sweetness. Each bite reveals a tender, juicy texture, complemented by the briny notes of the sea salt that dance on the palate. The vibrant pink hues of the prawns, contrasted against the smoky grill marks, create an inviting visual appeal, while the aroma of the ocean lingers in the air, enticing you to savor every morsel.

Tlayuda Zucchini, Ossau Iraty Cheese. This dish features a large, thin tortilla topped with grilled zucchini and melted Ossau Iraty cheese. The combination creates a harmonious balance of earthy and creamy, with the zucchini’s slight char enhancing its natural sweetness. Each bite reveals a delightful interplay of textures, from the crisp tortilla base to the luscious, gooey cheese that envelops the tender vegetables, creating a symphony of flavor that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Artichoke Huarache Weiser Potatoes, Capers. Blurry pic. This dish elegantly marries the earthiness of the Weiser potatoes with the briny pop of capers, creating a delightful contrast in flavor. The artichoke adds a tender, buttery richness, while the vibrant greens and golden tones present a visually stunning plate that invites curiosity and exploration with every bite.

Salsa.

Tamal de Ricotta Corn Cream, Queso Fresco. This was great. The delicate tamal, with its vibrant yellow hue, offers a captivating contrast between the creamy ricotta and the subtle sweetness of corn. Each bite reveals a luscious texture, harmonized by the mild saltiness of queso fresco, creating a delightful symphony of flavors that linger on the palate, reminiscent of comforting, home-cooked meals.

Calamar en su tinta chorizo. A dish that beautifully marries the tender calamari with the rich, smoky essence of chorizo. The ink envelops the seafood in a glossy, dark embrace, offering a striking contrast to the vibrant red of the sausage. The aroma is a harmonious blend of brininess and spice, while each bite unveils a delicate balance of umami and subtle heat, leaving a lasting impression on the palate.

Pescado a la Talla: Dry-aged branzino, chayote. The fish, expertly cooked, boasts a delicate, slightly smoky flavor that harmonizes beautifully with the crisp, refreshing notes of the chayote. Its golden-brown skin glistens, inviting you to experience the tender, flaky flesh within, while the subtle aroma of the sea lingers, promising a delightful culinary adventure.

Duck Carnitas Cola Confit, Shishito Escabeche, Jardin. Tasted like pork! The tender duck carnitas are beautifully complemented by the tangy shishito escabeche, creating a delightful contrast of flavors. The rich, savory notes are enhanced by the subtle sweetness of the cola, while the vibrant colors and textures on the plate invite you to indulge in this harmonious culinary experience.

Celery Root Mole Negro just, Soubise. The earthy depth of the mole intertwines with the subtle sweetness of the celery root, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. The velvety texture of the soubise, infused with a gentle nuttiness, adds a luxurious creaminess, while the rich, dark hues of the dish invite you into a world of complex flavors, punctuated by aromatic notes that linger enticingly in the air.

Peppers and pickles.

Pollito al Pastor pineapple butter, scallion oil. This dish is a vibrant celebration of flavors, with the succulent chicken infused with the smoky essence of the grill, complemented by the sweetness of ripe pineapple. The scallion oil adds a fragrant, herbaceous note, enhancing the dish’s complexity while inviting you to savor each tender bite.

Some kind of side veggie.

Carne Asada Nopal Salpicon, Alubias. A vibrant and refreshing dish that beautifully marries the robust, smoky flavors of grilled carne asada with the earthy, slightly tangy notes of nopal. The tender, succulent meat is complemented by the creamy texture of alubias, creating a harmonious balance that delights the palate. The visual appeal is stunning, with the bright greens of the nopal contrasting against the rich browns of the carne, while the dish’s inviting aroma hints at the depth of spices used. Each bite is a celebration of textures, from the crispness of the nopal to the tender juiciness of the meat, leaving a lingering warmth that invites you to savor it slowly.

Ensalada Verde. A refreshing medley of crisp greens and vibrant herbs, this salad is a delightful starter. The emerald hues of the lettuce are complemented by the aromatic notes of fresh basil and mint, creating a fragrant bouquet that dances in the air. Each bite offers a satisfying crunch, while the subtle peppery undertones of arugula awaken the palate, making it a wonderfully invigorating experience.

Heirloom Frijoles. A delightful dish showcasing a medley of heirloom beans, slow-cooked to perfection. The earthy aroma wafts gently, inviting you to savor each spoonful. With a rich, velvety texture and a harmonious blend of spices, the beans offer a comforting depth, while their vibrant hues create a visually appealing presentation. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, rounded by a subtle sweetness that lingers on the palate, making this dish a true celebration of rustic flavors.

Kimchi Rice is a delightful fusion of flavors that ignites the palate. The vibrant hues of the dish, from the fiery red of the kimchi to the warm golden rice, create an inviting visual feast. As you take a bite, the umami richness of the fermented kimchi intertwines with the subtle sweetness of the rice, while the crunch of freshly chopped scallions adds a refreshing contrast in texture. The aroma wafts enticingly, a tantalizing hint of spice and fermentation that beckons you to savor every mouthful.

Herb Guacamole. A vibrant mix of fresh herbs and creamy avocado, this dish is a delightful twist on the classic guacamole. The bright green hue invites you in, while the aromatic blend of cilantro and parsley offers an invigorating freshness that dances on the palate. Each bite is a harmonious balance of smooth texture and herbaceous notes, leaving a lingering, earthy richness that beckons for another scoop.

Trio.

Banana Leaf Flan Sesame Caramel is a delightful creation that harmoniously blends sweet and savory elements. The flan, delicately infused with the subtle fragrance of banana leaves, boasts a silky texture that melts in your mouth. The sesame caramel adds a nutty richness, enhancing the overall experience with its glossy sheen and complex layers of flavor. Each bite reveals a gentle interplay of warmth and earthiness, making it a truly memorable dish that captures the essence of culinary artistry.

Chocolate con Menta chocolate mousse, cacao, mint. This delightful dessert presents a harmonious blend of rich chocolate and refreshing mint that dances on the palate. The mousse boasts a velvety texture, while the vibrant green mint adds a refreshing contrast, both visually and in flavor, creating a deliciously indulgent experience that lingers sweetly in the air.

Soft Serve Corn, caramel, rescoldo. This dish presents a delightful interplay of sweet and savory, with the creamy soft serve enveloping the palate in a whisper of summer corn. The golden caramel adds a luscious depth, while the rescoldo imparts a smoky undertone, creating a multi-dimensional experience that is both comforting and intriguing. Visually, the dish is a stunning contrast of vibrant yellows and deep, rich browns, inviting one to indulge in its enticing aroma before the first taste.

Tamal Bananas Foster, candies peanuts, barley. This dish is a delightful play on textures and flavors, with the soft, caramelized bananas providing a warm, sweet embrace, while the crunchy candied peanuts add a delightful contrast. The barley serves as a comforting, nutty backdrop, grounding the dish with its earthy tones, enhancing the overall experience with its subtle complexity that invites you to savor each bite.

Hibiscus Meringue Raspberry is a delightful dessert that captivates the senses with its vibrant hues and airy texture. The ethereal meringue, kissed with the floral notes of hibiscus, contrasts beautifully with the tartness of the raspberry, creating a harmonious balance. As you take a bite, the delicate crunch of the meringue gives way to a luscious, slightly tangy raspberry core, leaving a lingering sweetness that dances on the palate. The presentation is a feast for the eyes, with its radiant colors inviting you to indulge in this exquisite treat.

Tres leches cake. This indulgent dessert is a rich sponge cake soaked in three types of milk, creating a luscious, moist texture that melts in your mouth. As I took my first bite, I was enveloped by the creamy sweetness, accentuated by a hint of vanilla and a whisper of cinnamon. The cake’s delicate layers, adorned with a cloud of whipped cream, presented a beautiful contrast of white and pale yellow, inviting me to savor each velvety morsel.

The wines.

I was actually wary of Damien because in the pictures it looked “sauce light” (aka too much plain protein). But it turned out to be full of flavor and super well cooked, so pretty excellent.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Damien, Mexican, modern, sunday crew, Wine

Shin Beijing Years Later

Jul24

Restaurant: Shin Beijing [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 3064 W 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90005. (213) 480-1977

Date: December 27, 2024

Cuisine: Korean-Chinese

Chef: Jae-hoon “Simon” Lee

Rating: Solid, but caught between Korea and China

It’s been years since we went to Shin Beijing so we decided to see how it was doing…

Shin Beijing opened in 1986 in a modest strip-mall arcade on Western Avenue, at a time when Koreatown’s landscape was still dominated by barbecue parlors and after-hours pubs. Its founder, Jae-hoon “Simon” Lee—a second-generation ethnic Korean who grew up in China’s Shandong province before emigrating to Los Angeles—saw an opening for the Korean-Chinese dishes he had eaten as a child: black-bean jjajangmyeon, blisteringly hot jjamppong, and lacquered sweet-and-sour pork. Lee ran the kitchen while his wife, Soo-mi, minded the dining room; today the couple’s daughter Erica oversees operations, holding fast to her parents’ recipes while updating the business with a bilingual staff and late-night hours that cater to a new generation of diners.

The cooking at Shin Beijing follows a “wok to table” philosophy: everything is fired à la minute in a row of carbon-stained woks that hiss and flare behind a glass partition, the only concession to showmanship in an otherwise utilitarian space. Noodles are hand-pulled each morning, the black bean sauce is fermented in-house, and the stock for soups simmers for 14 hours, gaining a depth that regulars claim they can taste blindfolded. The narrow dining room seats 46, its muted gray walls offset by a single scarlet mural of Beijing’s Qianmen Gate—an homage to the city that inspired the restaurant’s name—while Formica tables, fluorescent lighting, and the hum of K-pop radio underline its no-nonsense, late-night canteen vibe.

Within Koreatown’s crowded food scene, Shin Beijing occupies a peculiar but treasured niche: it is neither a trend-chasing pop-up nor a pristine “heritage” temple, but a workhorse institution where chefs from neighboring kitchens sneak in after service for comfort food and night-shift nurses line up for takeout. The restaurant has earned quiet accolades—Jonathan Gold once called its jjamppong “a tidal wave in a bowl,” and it remains a perennial fixture on Eater LA’s “Best Korean-Chinese” lists—yet its real status is measured by the multi-generational families who treat it as an extension of their own kitchens. In an area that reinvents itself every few years, Shin Beijing’s steadfast presence and smoky, unmistakable aroma serve as a reminder that longevity, like a good black-bean sauce, can be its own kind of revolution.
Jae-hoon “Simon” Lee grew up shuttling between Seoul’s Gwangjang Market stalls and his grandmother’s small Chinese restaurant in the Mapo district, an upbringing that hard-wired him with a fascination for the borderlands where Korean and northern Chinese flavors meet. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, he staged at Jungsik in Seoul, then logged serious fine-dining mileage at Benu in San Francisco and Providence in Los Angeles, experiences that taught him how to layer precision onto nostalgia. A two-year run as sous-chef at Momofuku Ssäm Bar sharpened his appetite for playful fermentation and relentless R&D, and by the time he opened Shin Beijing in the heart of Koreatown he had already appeared on the “Eater Young Guns” list and snagged a Rising Star Chef nomination from the James Beard Foundation.

At Shin Beijing, Lee’s cooking is equal parts memory and modernism: dan-dan mian arrives tangled with perilla-seed tahini, charred Napa cabbage is dressed in black-vinegar gochujang, and whole rockfish is lacquered with soy-bean-paste caramel before being flash-fried and served Peking-duck-style with shiso crêpes. His menu philosophy—“hyper-regional, hyper-seasonal, always personal”—strives to honor the imperial Beijing banquet dishes his grandmother revered while celebrating the Southern California larder he now calls home. Influences range from the meticulous saucier work he learned at Benu to the fermented funk of Jeolla-do banchan; the connective tissue, he says, is a belief that “every dish should have one foot in comfort and the other in surprise.” Critics have taken notice: the Los Angeles Times placed Shin Beijing in the top tier of its 101-Best Restaurants list, while Michelin’s inspectors praised its “confident, border-blurring depth.” For Lee, though, the real accolade is watching diners wrap a slice of char siu-style pork belly in a house-made kimchi crêpe and realize that culinary borders can be as thin—and as delicious—as they choose to be.

Colid Plate of pig head, century egg, jellyfish, and beef with bean sauce. The dish presents a striking contrast of textures, featuring the tender richness of the pig head juxtaposed with the silky smoothness of the century egg. The jellyfish adds a delightful crunch, while the beef, draped in a savory bean sauce, provides depth to the ensemble. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, with the aromatic notes of the bean sauce enveloping the palate, creating a harmonious interplay that is both adventurous and satisfying.

Kimchi. It is a Korean/Chinese place.

Walnut Shrimp. Very fried. The crispy, golden-brown exterior gives way to a tender, succulent shrimp, perfectly complemented by the rich, buttery essence of toasted walnuts. The dish is a delightful interplay of textures, with the crunch of the fried batter harmonizing with the smooth, creamy sauce, while the sweet and savory notes dance gracefully on the palate, enveloping you in a warm embrace of flavor.

Sweet and Spicy Shrimp with Noodles. This dish features succulent shrimp tossed in a vibrant blend of sweet and spicy sauces, served over a bed of tender noodles. The enticing aroma of garlic and chili wafts through the air, while the glossy noodles provide a delightful contrast in texture. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of heat and sweetness, with the shrimp bursting with flavor and the dish beautifully garnished to enhance its visual appeal.

It was sweet, but the noodles were incredible.

Bok Choy.

Pseudo Peking Duck is a delightful reinterpretation of the classic dish, featuring crispy, golden-brown skin and tender, succulent meat. The dish is beautifully presented, with vibrant garnishes that add a pop of color to the plate. The aroma is intoxicating, offering hints of five-spice and sweet soy, while each bite delivers a satisfying crunch followed by the rich umami of the duck. The juxtaposition of textures—crispy skin against the luscious meat—creates an exquisite balance that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Buns.

On request, we got “pancakes” (aka tortillas).

Southern style Hoisin.

Duck Fried Rice. This dish features tender pieces of duck mixed with fluffy rice, vibrant vegetables, and a hint of soy sauce. The dish is a delightful balance of savory and slightly sweet, with the richness of the duck harmonizing beautifully with the freshness of the vegetables. Each bite offers a satisfying contrast in texture, from the succulent meat to the tender grains, while the aromatic notes of garlic and ginger waft invitingly, making this a truly comforting yet refined dish.

Stir Fried Veggies with a Bit of Meat in Brown Sauce is a delightful medley that showcases vibrant vegetables harmoniously intertwined with tender meat, all enveloped in a rich brown sauce. The glossy sheen of the sauce glistens alluringly, while the crispness of the vegetables contrasts beautifully with the succulent meat, creating a satisfying texture. Each bite bursts with umami depth, and the aroma is an enticing blend of savory and slightly sweet notes, inviting you to savor every forkful.

Mapo Tofu. Ground pork. This classic dish is a delightful harmony of textures and flavors, with the silky tofu contrasting beautifully against the rich, savory ground pork. The aromatic blend of Sichuan peppercorns and chili oil envelops the palate, offering a tantalizing heat that dances on the tongue, while the deep crimson sauce glistens invitingly, promising a bold and satisfying culinary experience.

King Pao Chicken. This was more like Korean Fried Chicken, breaded and a little bit sweet/spicy. It was good, but not Kung Pao. The crispiness of the coating contrasted beautifully with the tender chicken within, while the subtle sweetness harmonized with the gentle heat, creating a delightful balance that lingered on the palate. The vibrant colors of the dish, accented by flecks of chili and green onions, added an inviting visual appeal that enticed the senses even before the first bite.

Garlic Eggplant is a delightful medley of tender eggplant slices, sautéed with fragrant garlic and a splash of soy sauce. The eggplant’s silky texture contrasts beautifully with the aromatic allure of roasted garlic, while the soy sauce adds a savory depth that enhances each bite. The dish presents a stunning palette, with deep purples and golden hues that invite you to indulge. As the warm, umami-rich flavors envelop your palate, the subtle sweetness of the eggplant emerges, creating a harmonious balance that lingers pleasantly on the tongue.

Beef with Scallions: A delightful combination of tender beef stir-fried with fragrant scallions. The dish presents a vibrant palette of deep browns contrasted with the bright green rings of scallion, inviting the diner to indulge. As the savory aroma wafts through the air, the beef reveals its succulent texture, while the scallions add a crisp freshness, enhancing each bite with a harmonious interplay of umami and mild onion sweetness. The balance of flavors leaves a lasting impression, echoing the essence of home-style comfort food with a refined touch.

Beef or Pork with Peppers is a delightful dish that combines tender meat with the vibrant crunch of fresh peppers. The succulent cuts are perfectly seared, imparting a savory depth, while the peppers add a bright, sweet note that balances the richness. The dish is visually striking, with a palette of reds, greens, and yellows, inviting you to savor each bite. As you take a forkful, the harmonious blend of flavors unfolds: the umami of the meat melds beautifully with the fragrant, slightly charred essence of the peppers, creating a symphony of taste that lingers on the palate.

Sesame Bean Balls are a delightful treat that perfectly balance the nutty aroma of toasted sesame with the subtle sweetness of the bean filling. The exterior offers a satisfying crunch, while the interior reveals a soft, slightly chewy texture that envelops your palate in a warm embrace. The golden-brown hue and glossy finish are visually enticing, inviting you to savor each bite. As you indulge, the gentle sweetness mingles with the nutty essence, creating a harmonious blend that dances on the taste buds, leaving a lingering warmth that is both comforting and satisfying.

On revisit, years later, Shin Beijing is tasty, but the dishes are saucy with a pervasive sweet and tangy flavor. Lots of sugar. It’s actually sort of like Chinese Korean American. Definitely not as good as the SGV.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: hedonists, Korean Chinese, Shin Beijing

Foodie Kusano

Jul22

Restaurant: Kusano

Location: 10726 Jefferson Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230. *unknown*

Date: December 16, 2024

Cuisine: Omakase Sushi

Chef: Yuto Kusano

Rating: Great

Kusano opened its doors on Jefferson Boulevard in 2018, the project of husband-and-wife team Yuto and Mariko Kusano, both second-generation Angelenos whose families came from Fukuoka. After years in Michelin-starred kitchens—Yuto on the sushi line at Mori, Mariko as a pastry sous-chef at Providence—they pooled modest savings and took over a narrow storefront that had housed a shoe-repair shop since the 1950s. From day one, the couple insisted on keeping ownership independent and family-run: Mariko handles the books and dessert program, Yuto presides over a six-seat counter, and his younger brother Kai manages a tiny yakitori grill that perfumes the sidewalk every night. Their culinary philosophy is deceptively simple: treat California’s coastal produce the way their grandparents treated Kyūshū’s—minimal intervention, total respect. That means Santa Barbara uni spooned over warm rice seasoned with kelp stock instead of vinegar, house-cured mackerel brightened by yuzu from a Temple City backyard, and late-night bowls of chicken bone broth finished with a whisper of smoked sea salt from Okinawa.Chef Yuto Kusano grew up in Japan’s lush Kochi Prefecture, where his grandparents ran a tiny ryōtei that first sparked his fascination with seasonality. After formal culinary training at Tsuji in Osaka, he embarked on a decade-long apprenticeship that took him from the three-Michelin-starred Kikunoi in Kyoto to the exacting pastry station at Noma in Copenhagen, and finally to Los Angeles, where he spent four years as sous-chef at n/naka. Along the way he earned a reputation for balancing rigorous kaiseki technique with an almost playful curiosity about fermentation and coastal foraging, a combination that landed him on Eater LA’s “Young Guns” list in 2022 and drew the attention of local critics eager to see what he would do on his own.
Tiny little private space.

Skipjack sashimi with onions. The delicate slices of skipjack sashimi are artfully arranged, their glistening surface reflecting a palette of deep pinks and silvers. The subtle oceanic sweetness of the fish is beautifully complemented by the sharpness of the onions, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. Each bite is a tender embrace of silky texture, evoking a freshness that is both invigorating and refreshing.

Precursor orb?

Chawanmushi with shirako and ikura. So good! This delicate steamed egg custard, lusciously creamy and rich, captivates the senses with its silky texture. The umami-packed shirako adds a subtle brininess, while the ikura bursts with a refreshing pop, creating a delightful contrast that lingers on the palate.

Halibut nigiri. Lemon juice and sea salt. The pristine white flesh of the halibut glistens with a delicate sheen, inviting you to savor its subtle sweetness. Each bite unveils a harmonious balance between the briny notes of the sea salt and the bright acidity of the lemon juice, enhancing the fish’s buttery texture and leaving a refreshing finish on the palate.

Shima-aji (striped jack). This exquisite fish boasts a delicate, buttery texture that melts in your mouth, accompanied by a subtle sweetness that awakens the palate. Its iridescent skin glimmers under the light, inviting you to savor its exquisite flavor, while the gentle aroma of the sea lingers enticingly, making each bite a harmonious experience of oceanic freshness.

Hokkaido Scallop: A dish that showcases the natural sweetness of the scallops, perfectly seared to achieve a delicate crisp on the outside while retaining a tender, almost creamy texture within. The subtle brininess transports you to the ocean, while the gentle aroma of the sea lingers enticingly in the air. The dish is a harmonious blend of oceanic freshness and buttery richness, with each bite releasing a burst of umami that dances on the palate, complemented by a whisper of citrus that brightens the overall experience.

Sea Bream.

Monkfish liver. Creamy and rich, with a delicate flavor that lingers on the palate. The smooth texture melts effortlessly, while the subtle brininess offers a hint of the ocean’s embrace. The dish presents a beautiful, glossy sheen, inviting you to savor its luxurious mouthfeel, as aromas of the sea waft gently, enhancing the overall experience.

Aji.

Sweet shrimp with spriolina roe. The shrimp are succulent and tender, their natural sweetness complemented by the briny pop of the roe. Each bite offers a delightful contrast in texture, while the vibrant colors of the dish dance on the plate, enhancing its visual appeal. The dish is a celebration of oceanic freshness, with a subtle umami depth that lingers on the palate, evoking a sense of coastal bliss.

Kimadai snapper. Smoky.

Miso soup is a comforting blend of rich, umami flavors that warms the soul. The velvety texture of the broth is complemented by delicate wisps of seaweed and the subtle sweetness of tofu, creating a harmony of tastes that dances on the palate. The earthy aroma invites you in, while the warm, golden hue offers a visual promise of the soothing experience that awaits. Each spoonful is a gentle reminder of simplicity elevated, making it a timeless classic in the world of Japanese cuisine.

Cooked Japanese Buri (wild yellowtail). The rich, buttery flesh of the fish glistens with a delicate sear, inviting you to savor its oceanic depth. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of sweetness and umami, complemented by a whisper of smokiness, while the tender texture melts in your mouth, leaving a lingering essence of the sea that is both refreshing and satisfying.

Tro of Tuna, Chu-Toro and O-Toro. The vibrant hues of the fish glisten under soft lighting, inviting you to indulge in their melt-in-your-mouth textures. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of richness and umami, with the delicate fat of the O-Toro beautifully balancing the clean, briny notes of the Chu-Toro, leaving a lingering, oceanic essence that captivates the palate.

Hokkaido Uni with Ika (squid). The delicate sweetness of the uni harmonizes beautifully with the subtle brininess of the ika, creating a captivating umami experience. The velvety texture of the uni contrasts with the tender chew of the squid, while the dish’s vibrant colors evoke the essence of the sea, offering a visual feast that tantalizes the senses before the first bite.

Amberjack / King mackerel.

Albacore.

Shirako nigiri. Shirako is the milt of the cod, creamy and rich, served atop a perfectly molded rice base. The delicate, silken texture of the shirako contrasts beautifully with the warm, slightly vinegared rice, creating a harmonious balance on the palate. As you take a bite, the subtle brininess and umami essence unfold, accompanied by a whisper of oceanic aroma, evoking the essence of the sea. Each piece is a delicate testament to the chef’s craftsmanship, leaving a lingering sensation that invites you to savor every moment.

Sweet perch.

Toro Takuan Handroll. Toro Takuan Handroll is a delightful blend of rich toro and crisp takuan, wrapped in a delicate nori. The luxurious, buttery texture of the toro contrasts beautifully with the sweet and tangy crunch of the takuan, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. The vibrant colors of the ingredients, coupled with the fragrant aroma of the nori, elevate this handroll into a sublime experience that is as visually appealing as it is delicious.

Sea Eel.

Tamago. A delicate Japanese omelet, sweet and savory, with a perfect balance of flavors. The rich, buttery texture melts in your mouth, while the subtle hints of dashi elevate its umami profile. Its golden hue glistens invitingly, a visual prelude to the harmonious experience awaiting the palate.

Gianduia and Peppermint Chip Gelato is a delightful blend of rich chocolate hazelnut and refreshing peppermint. The velvety texture envelops the palate, while the crisp chocolate flecks add an enticing crunch. Each spoonful presents a harmonious balance of sweet and minty flavors, evoking a sense of indulgence with every bite. The gelato’s glossy sheen and vibrant green specks invite you to savor its luxurious essence, making it a perfect treat for any occasion.

The wines.

Great evening with some really good sushi and not even that far away. We just have so much good sushi in town. We weren’t that full, so Erick and I went for second dinner. The delicate, glistening slices of fish melted in my mouth, their umami essence beautifully complemented by the subtle tang of wasabi, while the vibrant colors on the plate danced like art, inviting each bite with a promise of freshness and depth. The experience was a harmonious blend of flavors and textures, leaving a lingering satisfaction that beckoned for more.

Veuve Clicquot, renowned for its vibrant style, hails from the Champagne region of France. This 250th Anniversary Brut is a non-vintage blend that showcases the house’s signature Pinot Noir richness balanced with Chardonnay’s elegance. With notes of ripe apple, brioche, and a hint of citrus, it’s a celebratory wine that pairs beautifully with seafood and light appetizers.

In the background, other bottles hint at a diverse selection, likely featuring a mix of white and red varietals, showcasing a range of terroirs and styles. This variety allows for an exploration of flavors, from crisp, refreshing whites to bold, complex reds, making it a delightful experience for any wine enthusiast.

The Veuve Clicquot Brut, hailing from Champagne, France, is a celebrated non-vintage sparkling wine that epitomizes elegance and finesse. Known for its consistent quality, this cuvée showcases a harmonious blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, delivering a vibrant profile of ripe apple, pear, and subtle brioche notes. Perfectly paired with oysters or a classic seafood dish, it also complements festive occasions and light appetizers.

This particular bottle, celebrating the 250th anniversary of the house, adds a layer of history and tradition to its already illustrious reputation. The wine’s crisp acidity and fine mousse make it an ideal choice for toasting special moments, while its versatility allows it to shine alongside a wide array of culinary delights.

The Colli Stefani Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2020 is a vibrant white wine from the Marche region of Italy. With its zesty acidity and notes of green apple, citrus, and a hint of almond, it offers a refreshing palate that pairs beautifully with seafood dishes such as grilled prawns or a light risotto.

This wine’s crisp and elegant profile makes it an ideal companion for sharing a variety of antipasti, highlighting its versatility. The minerality and floral aromas enhance its appeal, making it a delightful choice for warm evenings or casual gatherings.

Uh oh — second dinner!

El Pastor: A tantalizing blend of marinated pork, pineapple, and fresh cilantro, served on soft corn tortillas. The vibrant colors of the dish catch the eye, while the aroma of charred meat mingles with the sweetness of pineapple, creating a mouthwatering anticipation. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of savory and sweet, with the tender pork complemented by the bright, zesty notes of cilantro, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for another taste.

The plate of weird meats. A curious medley of assorted cuts and flavors that challenges the palate. Each piece, distinct in texture and aroma, invites exploration, with savory notes mingling in a delightful dance. The vibrant hues of the meats, paired with a subtle char, create an enticing visual feast, while the rich umami undertones linger, leaving a memorable impression that beckons for another bite.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Foodie Club, Gelato, Kusano, Sushi, Wine

Lofty Sichuan

Jul20

Restaurant: Sichuan Street Food

Location: 91 E Green St, Pasadena, CA 91105. (626) 204-6333

Date: December 8, 2024

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Yucheng “Tony” Li

Rating: One of the better Sichuans, but annoying table layout

Sichuan Street Food opened its doors on bustling Green Street in Old Pasadena in May 2024, the brain-child of Chengdu-born chef-owner Tony (Yucheng) Li and his wife, general manager Lynn Zhang. After years cooking at heavyweight San Gabriel Valley kitchens such as Chengdu Taste and Szechuan Impression, Li wanted a spot that focused less on banquet dishes and more on the hawker-stall specialties he grew up eating—quick, fiery snacks meant to be shared over laughter rather than ceremony. The couple financed the project themselves, keeping the footprint modest: a narrow 38-seat dining room fronted by an open show kitchen where fragrant woks flare behind a glass partition.

People have been talking about this “newish” Pasadena Szechuan place. It’s pretty casual.

Sichuan Street Food’s chef, Yong “Leo” Zhu, trained in the Chengdu restaurant scene for two decades, starting off as a dishwasher and busboy before slowly working his way up to an apprentice on the wok. Zhu spent years sweating over the flames at Kao Jiang, a restaurant franchise in Chengdu specializing in pan-roast fish. The 1,000-foot space drew a loyal following, with diners waiting in lines for their signature mouth-numbing fish. A Shanghai restaurateur took notice of Zhu’s skill and asked if he would be interested in bringing his talents to America. “I was really nervous,” said Zhu. “I was worried; how would I survive there?” But with confidence in his skills and a strong belief in himself, Zhu struck out to try his fortunes in Pasadena.

In the early 2010s, the Sichuan Renaissance in Los Angeles was spearheaded by the likes of Chengdu Taste and Sichuan Impression; the latter recently passed its 10-year mark, featuring such classics as boiled fish in rattan pepper and fu qi fei pian (sliced beef in chile sauce) on its anniversary special menu. The Sichuan scene has expanded to include specialists such as Mian in San Gabriel, which makes Chongqing-style noodle dishes, and hot pot restaurants like Shancheng Lameizi in Rowland Heights and HaiDiLao in Century City.

Li’s cooking marries the boisterous spirit of the chuan chuan stalls he grew up with to the ingredient-driven ethos of Southern California. His signature style pairs meticulous technique—house-roasted, single-origin Erjingtiao chiles ground daily; peppercorn oil cold-pressed to preserve the citrusy top notes—with bright local produce and unexpected textures. The duck-fat “malatang” hot pot, the cold rabbit terrine sprinkled with pixian chile ash, and the blister-fried avocado with fermented-black-bean vinaigrette have earned national notice: Eater named Sichuan Street Food one of the “15 Essential LA Restaurants” in 2021, and Li was a James Beard Award semifinalist in the Best Chef: California category the following year. He cites Yu Bo’s boundary-pushing presentations, Fuchsia Dunlop’s scholarship, and the produce-driven minimalism of Alice Waters as equal influences.

Guided by the idea that Sichuan cuisine is defined not by heaviness but by balance—ma (numbing), la (heat), xian (savory), and chen (aroma) held in dynamic tension—Li builds a menu that oscillates between nostalgia and innovation. Every plate has to satisfy what he calls the “bowl-of-rice test”: it must be delicious enough to justify a second helping of rice yet complex enough to stand alone. Sustainability and community weave through his decisions—spent chile oil is up-cycled into soap sold at the host stand, and a portion of profits funds culinary apprenticeships for first-generation immigrant cooks. In Li’s kitchen, tradition is not a boundary but a compass—a way to navigate the exuberant possibilities of California’s markets while staying true to the soul of Sichuan street food.

But they do have the “secret” upstairs “private” room.

Definitely the best seat in the house. This loft is absolutely key.

The menu at Sichuan Street Food features a vibrant selection of authentic Sichuan dishes, highlighting bold flavors and diverse ingredients. Diners can enjoy a variety of meat options including spicy chicken, tender lamb, and flavorful beef, alongside comforting soups such as Tomato and Egg Soup and Pork Trotter Soup. Additionally, the menu offers enticing snacks like Glutinous Rice Ball with Rice Wine and a range of fried rice dishes, making it a delightful destination for lovers of spicy and savory Chinese cuisine.

The Cucumber Salad. A very fresh version, but I like a bit more sauce. The vibrant green cucumbers glisten with a light dressing, their crisp texture providing a delightful snap that contrasts beautifully with the subtle acidity. Each bite releases a refreshing burst of flavor, enhanced by the aromatic notes of herbs that linger on the palate.

Dried Bean Curd Strips & Vegetable Salad. The sauce was really quite spicy. The vibrant array of fresh vegetables adds a delightful crunch, while the silky texture of the bean curd strips contrasts beautifully with the bold heat of the sauce, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. Each bite is a celebration of color and freshness, invigorated by the aromatic spices that linger in the air.

The restaurant’s interior exudes an unrefined charm, with stainless steel surfaces reflecting the warmth of overhead lights, creating an inviting yet bustling atmosphere. The scent of sizzling spices mingles with the sound of clattering pans, immersing diners in a sensory experience that heightens anticipation. Handwritten menus adorn the walls, offering a glimpse into the culinary passion at play, while the lively interaction between chefs adds an element of authenticity, making it clear that the heart of the dining experience lies in this vibrant, albeit chaotic, kitchen environment.

Interesting.

Garlic Pork Belly. Crack.

Sichuan crab (special order). This dish is a vibrant tapestry of flavors, where the tender, succulent crab meat is enveloped in a complex, spicy sauce that dances on the palate. The rich aroma of the Sichuan peppercorns mingles with the sweetness of the crab, while the bright red chilies add a pop of color and an inviting heat that lingers gently, inviting each bite to be savored.

Bullfrog with Sichuan Pepper and Chilis. Very nice flavor and very tender frog. The dish presents a vibrant interplay of colors, with the rich, earthy tones of the frog harmonizing beautifully with the fiery reds and greens of the chilis. Each bite delivers a delicate balance of tenderness and a piquant, numbing heat from the Sichuan pepper, awakening the palate with its aromatic complexity and inviting further exploration.

Drunken chicken with garlic sauce. The chicken was very scrawny and boney, but the sauce was a revelation. Its rich, aromatic garlic essence intertwined beautifully with a subtle hint of sweetness, enveloping the delicate meat in a silky embrace. The dish presented a vibrant contrast of colors, with the glossy sauce glistening against the pale chicken, inviting one to savor its complex layers of flavor and texture.

The garlic stuff was amazing; however.

Particularly when amping up the frog.

Dan Dan Noodles are a delightful blend of spicy, nutty, and savory flavors. The moment they hit your palate, the vibrant combination of sesame, chili oil, and ground pork creates a harmonious dance of textures, with the tender noodles providing a satisfying bite. The dish is visually striking, with the rich, reddish sauce glistening against the backdrop of fresh green scallions, inviting you to dive in. Each mouthful offers a complex interplay of heat and umami, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for more.

A very tasty and “refreshing” version.

Lamb with chilis: A tender cut of lamb, marinated and grilled to perfection, served with a vibrant chili sauce that adds a delightful kick. The rich, savory notes of the lamb harmonize beautifully with the bright, fiery essence of the chilis, creating a dish that is both comforting and exhilarating. The deep red hue of the sauce contrasts elegantly with the succulent meat, while the aroma of charred spices tantalizes the senses, inviting each bite to reveal layers of flavor that dance on the palate.

Mapo Tofu. Very good version with lots of MSG. The dish presents a vibrant red sauce, speckled with green scallions, that clings to the silky cubes of tofu. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of umami and spice, with the fragrant notes of Sichuan peppercorns awakening the palate, while the rich, velvety texture invites a deeper exploration of its bold flavors.

Cumin lamb. The dish features tender, marinated lamb infused with the earthy spice of cumin, served with a side of fragrant rice. The lamb is succulent, with a smoky depth that harmonizes beautifully with the warm, aromatic notes of the cumin. Each bite is a delightful explosion of flavor, complemented by the vibrant colors of the dish, with the rich hues of the lamb contrasted against the bright freshness of the herbs. The aroma is intoxicating, inviting you to savor the experience as it unfolds on your palate, revealing layers of complexity with every morsel.

Kung Pao Shrimp. Excellent. The vibrant colors of the dish beckon, while the enticing aroma of toasted peanuts and fragrant Sichuan peppercorns fills the air. Each succulent shrimp, perfectly cooked to tender perfection, is enveloped in a harmonious balance of sweet and savory notes, with a delightful crunch from the vegetables that adds a refreshing contrast to the rich, glossy sauce.

Boiled Beef with Green Chilis. Firey hot and numbing with a very silky beef flavor. Great. The dish presents a stunning contrast of vibrant green chilis against the tender, glistening beef, each bite releasing a savory warmth that envelops the palate. The silky texture of the beef harmonizes beautifully with the piquant heat, creating a delightful balance that lingers long after each mouthful.

Diced chicken with chilis. More like nuggets, instead of the usual very crunchy bits. The tender morsels, cloaked in a vibrant hue of crimson and gold, deliver a delightful contrast of textures, with a subtle heat that lingers gently on the palate. The aromatic spices entwine with the savory chicken, creating a harmonious balance that invites each bite to unfold like a culinary narrative.

Sichuan rice cakes are a delightful dish that showcases the bold and fiery essence of Sichuan cuisine. The chewy texture of the rice cakes perfectly contrasts with the vibrant, aromatic flavors of the accompanying sauce, which dances between spicy and savory notes. Each bite is a harmonious blend of heat and umami, with a subtle hint of garlic and the fragrant allure of Sichuan peppercorns that tantalize the palate. Visually, the dish is a feast for the eyes, with the glossy sauce enveloping the tender cakes, creating an inviting and appetizing presentation.

Sweet sesame ball soup is a delightful dessert that combines chewy, glutinous rice balls filled with sweet sesame paste, served in a warm, sweetened broth. The aroma of toasty sesame wafts enticingly, while the soup’s golden hue complements the delicate spheres that float gracefully within. Each bite reveals a wonderful contrast of textures, from the silky broth to the satisfying chew of the rice balls, creating a harmonious balance that is as comforting as it is indulgent.

Peppermint Chip and Dubai Chocolate Gelato—a delightful fusion that tantalizes the senses. The vibrant, minty freshness of the peppermint harmonizes beautifully with the rich, velvety texture of the Dubai chocolate, creating a luxurious indulgence. Each spoonful offers a refreshing coolness, complemented by the deep, complex notes of cocoa that linger on the palate, while the contrasting colors of pale green and dark chocolate create an enticing visual appeal. The aroma is a captivating blend of mint and chocolate, inviting you to savor every bite.

The 2014 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese from Joh. Jos. Prüm hails from the Mosel region of Germany, renowned for its exquisite Rieslings. This late harvest wine showcases a delicate balance of sweetness and acidity, offering notes of ripe peach, apricot, and a hint of minerality characteristic of its terroir. Pair it with spicy Asian dishes or a rich blue cheese for a delightful contrast that enhances both the food and wine.

Acclaimed for its elegance, this Spätlese is a perfect example of the Mosel’s ability to produce wines that are both complex and approachable, making it an excellent choice for a celebratory occasion or a quiet evening paired with dessert.

The Paul Bara Grand Rosé is a stunning Champagne from Bouzy, renowned for its rich terroir. This non-vintage offering showcases a harmonious blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, resulting in a vibrant pink hue. Its delicate bubbles dance on the palate, revealing notes of ripe strawberries and a hint of floral elegance, making it an exceptional choice for celebratory occasions or paired with a charcuterie board.

Originating from the esteemed Champagne region, the Grand Rosé is crafted with meticulous care, highlighting the minerality and complexity of the local soils. The vintage character adds depth, while the balanced acidity ensures a refreshing finish. Perfectly paired with seafood dishes or light appetizers, this wine elevates any dining experience with its effervescent charm.

Overall, this is a very good Sichuan place. It’s not as refined as Mountain, and the naming is a bit deceptive as the it’s really Chengdu casual restaurant food, not street food. Sichuan street food is more like spicy bean jelly noodles and rabbit head. Anyway, it’s a touch rustic but with an excellent kitchen. My biggest problem is that there is literally only one table in the restaurant I would want to eat at. I’m not a fan of the kind of small 2 and 4 top space downstairs.

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Gelato, hedonists, Pasadena, Sichuan Cuisine, Sichuan Street Food, spicy, Wine

Charming Chelsea

Jul18

Restaurant: The Chelsea

Location: 3110 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90404. (310) 393-6633

Date: December 5, 2024

Cuisine: New American

Chef: Mark French

Rating: Very good

Opened in 2019 on the steadily reviving stretch of Wilshire Boulevard, The Chelsea was created by longtime Santa Monica residents Katie and Mark French, a front-of-house/chef partnership that had cut its teeth in celebrated kitchens from Napa to New York before deciding to build something of their own in their home neighborhood. They took over a low-slung mid-century building, kept the bones, and invested nearly a year restoring the terrazzo floors and hand-staining the cedar rafters. Their guiding idea—reflected in the restaurant’s name—was to marry the casual elegance of London and Manhattan’s Chelsea districts with the sun-splashed ease of coastal California. What began as a 50-seat passion project is still owner-operated; on almost any night you’ll find Katie working the room while Mark expedites from the open kitchen.

The Chelsea’s menu is anchored in a farmers-market rhythm: vegetables come from the Wednesday Santa Monica market five blocks away, seafood is trucked in daily from Morro Bay, and meats are sourced from small, pasture-based ranches. Technique skews European—house-made pastas, a wood-fired grill, a dedicated raw-bar counter—but flavors lean brightly Californian, with citrus, herbs, and chiles popping up even in the charcuterie. The room mirrors that blend of polish and breezy charm: whitewashed brick, pocket-sized banquettes in navy leather, a bar lined with unlacquered brass, and front windows that accordion open to a sidewalk patio perfumed by rosemary planters. Subtle nods to its namesake boroughs—vintage London Underground posters, black-and-white photos of the High Line—add personality without tipping into theme-park territory.

Within a few months of opening, The Chelsea found itself a linchpin of Santa Monica’s mid-Wilshire dining corridor, drawing equal parts neighborhood regulars, industry types on nights off, and beach-bound visitors hunting something “local but special.” The LA Times praised it for “delivering the rare Westside balance of ambition and affordability,” and Eater included it in its annual “38 Essential” list for Los Angeles. Seasonal tasting dinners, half-price oyster Mondays, and collaborations with nearby craft brewers have only deepened its community roots. In a city where trends can burn hot and fade fast, The Chelsea’s mix of owner presence, ingredient integrity, and unfussy sophistication has effectively secured it a seat at the table of enduring Santa Monica favorites.
Chef-partner Mark French presides over the stoves at The Chelsea, the breezy Wilshire Boulevard brasserie that has quickly become one of Santa Monica’s most talked-about dining rooms. A Venice native, French graduated from the CIA at Hyde Park and cut his teeth on both coasts: first as a line cook at Spago Beverly Hills, then as a saucier at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon in Yountville, and finally as chef de partie at Eleven Madison Park in New York. Returning home in 2018, he spent two formative years running the wood-fire station at Jeremy Fox’s Rustic Canyon, an experience that cemented his devotion to market-driven cooking and whole-animal butchery. Those credentials, plus a stint staging at London’s Michelin-starred The Harwood Arms, explain the Anglo-Californian DNA that now defines The Chelsea’s menu.

Attractive room, very close to my house.

French’s cooking marries Santa Monica Farmers’ Market produce with the casual elegance of a modern London gastropub. His signatures—black-barley risotto layered with Weiser Family Farms carrots and aged Gouda; oak-grilled lamb saddle with mint-chimichurri and preserved Meyer lemon; and an already-famed sticky toffee pudding finished with buffalo-milk ice cream—showcase bright coastal flavors, meticulous technique, and just enough comfort to keep things convivial. Influences range from Alice Waters’ insistence on pristine ingredients to Fergus Henderson’s nose-to-tail ethic, filtered through the precision he learned under Daniel Humm. The approach has earned French a 2023 James Beard “Best Chef: West” semifinalist nod, a Michelin Bib Gourmand in the guide’s inaugural Los Angeles edition, and a perennial spot on Eater LA’s “Essential 38” list.

Guiding it all is a zero-waste, hyper-seasonal philosophy French calls “market first, story second.” Every morning begins at the nearby farmers’ stalls, where the day’s haul dictates the menu rather than the other way around. Trim becomes broths or ferments, fish bones morph into umami-rich garum, and even cocktail infusions are built from kitchen scraps—practices that speak to French’s belief that sustainability and flavor are inseparable. “If an ingredient travelled fewer than fifty miles and tells you something about this coast, it belongs on the plate,” he likes to say. The result is a restaurant that feels deeply rooted in Santa Monica yet worldly in perspective, where locals drop in for a pint and a Scotch egg, and gastronomes cross town for tasting menus that trace California’s seasons one nuanced, deceptively simple dish at a time.

The menu.

The Louis Jadot Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la Croix de Pierre 2005 is a remarkable expression from Burgundy, showcasing the region’s hallmark elegance and complexity. This Chardonnay presents a bouquet of ripe citrus, white flowers, and subtle oak, complemented by a vibrant acidity. Its rich, creamy texture and lingering minerality make it an ideal pair for grilled lobster with herb butter or a creamy risotto.

Harissa Lamb Tartare: rustic bread, mint aioli, crispy capers. Delicious. The vibrant colors of the dish are complemented by the rich, earthy notes of the lamb, while the mint aioli adds a refreshing herbal brightness. Each bite delivers a delightful contrast in textures, from the tender tartare to the crunchy capers, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate.

Crispy Lobster Sliders: arugula, truffle aioli, Hawaiian roll. Awesome! These sliders present a delightful contrast of textures, with the crispiness of the lobster juxtaposed against the soft, slightly sweet Hawaiian roll. The earthy aroma of truffle aioli envelops the palate, while the peppery notes of arugula add a refreshing brightness, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the senses.

Escargot Stuffed Mushrooms: pecorino polenta. These delicate mushrooms cradle the luxurious escargot within, creating a harmonious blend of earthiness and richness. The creamy pecorino polenta adds a velvety texture, while the fragrant aroma of garlic and herbs enchants the senses, inviting you to savor each delightful bite.

Roasted Beet & Heirloom Tomato Salad: goat cheese crouton, shaved arugula, balsamic reduction. This vibrant salad is a feast for the eyes, with the deep ruby reds of roasted beets contrasting beautifully against the bright, sun-kissed heirloom tomatoes. The creamy goat cheese crouton adds a luxurious texture, while the peppery arugula provides a refreshing bite, all harmoniously tied together by the rich, tangy notes of the balsamic reduction.

SWEET CORN & RICOTTA RAVIOLI. Thai green curry. I really enjoyed the curry pasta vibe. The delicate ravioli, a vibrant hue of golden yellow, bursts with the sweetness of corn and the creamy richness of ricotta. Encased within a tender shell, the dish is elevated by the aromatic notes of the Thai green curry, which adds a harmonious balance of heat and freshness, creating a delightful interplay of flavors and textures on the palate.

Spring Risotto: chanterelle, cremini, asparagus, arugula pesto, lemon, pecorino. Quite lovely. The risotto is a vibrant green, flecked with earthy mushrooms and bright asparagus, inviting you to indulge. Each creamy bite reveals a delightful interplay of nutty pecorino and zesty lemon, while the arugula pesto adds a peppery freshness that lingers on the palate.

Norwegian Ocean Trout: baby winter veggies, rosemary fingerling potatoes, chardonnay dill sauce. The trout glistens with a delicate sheen, its rich, buttery flavor beautifully complemented by the herbal notes of rosemary and the subtle acidity of the chardonnay dill sauce. Each bite is a harmonious blend of tender flesh and crisp vegetables, creating a symphony of textures that dance on the palate.

Kung Pao Brussels Sprouts: whipped tofu, soy, chili, ginger, garlic, peanuts, sesame. The vibrant green of the Brussels sprouts contrasts beautifully with the creamy whipped tofu, while the fragrant notes of ginger and garlic dance on the palate. Each bite delivers a delightful crunch from the peanuts, harmonizing with the umami-rich soy and a gentle heat from the chili, creating an exquisite balance of flavors and textures that lingers pleasantly on the tongue.

The dessert menu at The Chelsea features a delightful array of innovative and indulgent dishes, showcasing a blend of classic and contemporary flavors. Highlights include the rich Chocolate & Peanut Butter Turnover served with vanilla bean ice cream, the refreshing Ricotta Cheesecake infused with blackberry and rosemary, and the unique Chocolate Matcha Cake with dark chocolate ganache. For a twist on tradition, the Honey Polenta Cake with orange marmalade and lavender cream adds a fragrant touch, while the playful Grown-Up Milk & Cookies offers a nostalgic yet sophisticated treat.

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Chelsea, Santa Monica, Wine

Gamer Roccos

Jul16

Restaurant: Dinner at the Borgese’s [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13]

Location: Santa Monica

Date: December 3, 2024

Cuisine: Italian influenced gourmet home cooking

Rating: Awesome

Dinner at the Borgese’s is a special house dinner in Santa Monica cooked by the stunning pro-level home chef Borgese couple. Tonight’s dinner was a “game guy” dinner.

Lovely night out on the patio.

The menu.

The Borgese’s in the kitchen.

Meat!

Crudi. Seafood Crudo.

Risotto ai Frutti di Mare. Seafood Risotto.

Quaglia di Sonoma Ripiena. Stuffed Sonoma Quail.

Pasta all’aragosta Spinosa della California. California Spiny Lobster Pasta.

Costolette di Agnello Doppie. Double Lamb Chop.

Wagyu di New York. New York Wagyu.

Polenta con Salsiccia. Polenta with Sausage.

Gelato di Andy Gavin. Ice Cream by Andy Gavin. Chocolate Everything Gelato.

The wines.

First of all, the Borgese hospitality was awesome, the house lovely, and the food absolutely incredible. One of the best “home cooked” meals I’ve had. Maybe ever if you restrict it to chefs cooking in their own home kitchen. Just amazing. Every dish was great. Rustic but extremely delicious style. Superb homemade pastas.

Service was handled by the youngest Borgese (teen daughter) and was better than most restaurant staff. Super friendly and you can tell they do this a lot.

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By: agavin
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Tagged as: BYOG, Dinner at the Borgese's, Gelato, Rocco Borgese, Santa Monica

Bazaar Thanksgiving

Jul14

Restaurant: The Bazaar by José Andrés

Location: 1100 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington, DC 20004. (202) 695-1100

Date: November 28, 2024

Cuisine: Spanish

Rating: Great of course

The Bazaar by José Andrés finally touched down in the chef-humanitarian’s home city in August 2023, taking over the soaring atrium of the newly minted Waldorf Astoria in the Old Post Office building on Pennsylvania Avenue. Like its sibling locations in Los Angeles, Miami, and Las Vegas, the restaurant is owned and operated by the José Andrés Group, the hospitality company that grew out of ThinkFoodGroup and now spans three continents. Yet this branch feels unmistakably Washingtonian: Andrés first made his mark on D.C. three decades ago with Jaleo, and The Bazaar arrives as a triumphant homecoming, marrying his global renown with the local roots that launched his career.

True to Andrés’s culinary philosophy, the menu is a playful dialogue between tradition and innovation—classic Andalusian tapas, pristine Mid-Atlantic seafood, and paella finished over open flame share space with liquid olives, cotton-candy foie gras, and other whimsical nods to the chef’s Ferran Adrià-era training. The setting amplifies the theater: Philippe Starck’s original Bazaar aesthetic—surrealist art, jewel-toned velvet, and curio-filled vitrines—has been adapted to the landmark building’s marble columns, 200-foot skylight, and ringing balconies. Tableside jamón carving, roving gin-and-tonic carts, and a see-and-be-seen bar beneath the clock tower create an ambience that oscillates between Gilded-Age grandeur and avant-garde spectacle.

In a city already defined by Andrés’s portfolio, The Bazaar instantly assumed flagship status, luring power brokers, embassy crowds, and culinary pilgrims while adding fresh energy to a corridor long in search of an anchor. Critics have praised its confident blend of Iberian soul and molecular fireworks, calling it a singular experience even in a town crowded with the chef’s own concepts. Whether for a celebratory feast or a late-night cocktail under the atrium’s starlight, Washingtonians now treat The Bazaar not just as another Andrés restaurant, but as a statement piece in the capital’s dining renaissance—proof that D.C.’s culinary scene can rival any in the world while still honoring the chef who helped invent it.

This year we decided to mix it up for Thanksgiving — and for my first time ever — go to a restaurant for the holiday. Since The Bazaar was always one of our favorites and it has been closed for years in LA, we decided to try the Washington branch.

Gorgeous space in the Old Post Office.

Gathered around the table, this delightful trio—an esteemed matriarch, her charming grandson, and a dapper family friend—brings warmth and laughter to the culinary experience ahead.

The Thanksgiving menu.

I dragged this wine from California—but of course it came from Spain originally.

José’s Favorite Waldorf Salad: endives, celery, blue cheese, walnuts, yogurt. This dish is a delightful medley of textures and flavors, with the crispness of endives and celery providing a refreshing crunch, while the creamy yogurt and tangy blue cheese create a luxurious mouthfeel. The toasted walnuts add a satisfying richness, enhancing the overall experience with their earthy aroma and nutty taste, making each bite a harmonious blend of contrasting elements.

José’s Taco: jamón ibérico de bellota, Ossetra caviar, quail egg, nori seaweed. This exquisite creation is a symphony of flavors where the rich, nutty notes of the jamón de bellota harmonize beautifully with the briny pop of the caviar. The silky quail egg and the umami depth of the nori seaweed add layers of complexity, making each bite an indulgent experience that dances on the palate with both elegance and intrigue.

A cheese and bread plate for the boy. This delightful assortment features a variety of artisanal cheeses paired with freshly baked, crusty bread. The rich, creamy textures of the cheeses contrast beautifully with the airy, golden crust of the bread, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. Each bite offers a subtle interplay of savory and tangy notes, while the fragrant aroma of the cheeses envelops the senses, inviting a moment of indulgence.

Crab Loui Cone. Marie Rose sauce, avocado, garden pickles. This delightful dish presents a harmonious blend of sweet crab and creamy avocado, all encased in a crisp cone that offers a satisfying crunch. The vibrant colors and fresh aromas invite you to dive in, while the tangy notes of the Marie Rose sauce elevate the flavor profile, creating a refreshing balance with the garden pickles that add a hint of acidity.

A tuna cone (instead of the crab one). Brought about 30 minutes later. This delightful creation presents a crisp, delicate cone filled with luscious tuna, each bite an exquisite balance of oceanic freshness and creamy texture. The vibrant hues of the tuna contrast beautifully with the cone, while the subtle umami notes tease the palate, leaving a lingering satisfaction that beckons for another taste.

Neptune’s Pillow: fresh tuna, rocoto pepper, sesame, wasabi. The delicate pink of the tuna invites you in, while the vibrant heat of the rocoto pepper dances playfully on the palate. Each bite harmonizes the rich, buttery texture of the fish with the nutty crunch of sesame, all elevated by a whisper of wasabi that lingers like a gentle breeze, making for a truly exquisite experience.

The classic olives 2 ways. A delightful presentation that showcases the briny richness of the olives, each variety offering a unique depth of flavor. The vivid green and deep purple hues contrast beautifully, inviting you to explore their diverse textures. As you take a bite, the luscious oil envelops your palate, releasing a symphony of umami and subtle earthiness, while the gentle acidity cuts through the richness, making each taste a refreshing experience.

Plaintain and taro chips with whipped yogurt. These delightful snacks are a perfect balance of crunch and creaminess, with the earthy sweetness of the plaintain harmonizing beautifully with the subtle nuttiness of taro. Each chip offers a satisfying snap, while the whipped yogurt adds a refreshing tang that elevates the entire experience. The vibrant colors of the chips, paired with the silky white of the yogurt, create an inviting visual contrast that tempts the palate even before the first bite.

Croquetas de Cangrejo: Blue crab-bechamel fritters. The delicate crunch of the exterior gives way to a luxuriously creamy interior, where the sweet, briny notes of blue crab harmonize beautifully with the velvety bechamel. Each bite releases an inviting aroma, reminiscent of a coastal breeze, while the vibrant golden hue of the fritters adds an enticing visual appeal that beckons for indulgence.

Dragon Fruit Ceviche: cobia, passion fruit, pecans, avocado. The vibrant hues of the dragon fruit create a stunning visual contrast, while the delicate balance of sweet and tangy notes from the passion fruit elevates the dish. Each bite offers a delightful crunch from the pecans, harmonizing beautifully with the buttery texture of the avocado, culminating in a refreshing and invigorating culinary experience.

Brussels Sprouts: lemon pith puree, apricots, green grapes and apples, lemon air. The dish presents a vibrant medley of colors, with the deep green of the sprouts contrasting beautifully against the bright hues of the fruits. Each bite reveals a delightful interplay of sweetness and tartness, while the creamy lemon pith puree adds a velvety texture that elevates the dish to a refreshing, yet complex experience.

Stuffed Piquillo Peppers. Merry Goat Round cheese, mojo verde, piquillo tuile, PX reduction. The delicate sweetness of the piquillo peppers envelops the rich, creamy cheese, while the vibrant mojo verde adds a refreshing herbal note. Each bite is a harmonious blend of textures, with the crispy tuile providing a delightful contrast to the tender filling, creating an elegant interplay of flavors that lingers on the palate.

Japanese Baby Peaches: burrata, hazelnuts, brioche croutons, arugula. The delicate sweetness of the peaches is beautifully complemented by the creamy burrata, while the crunchy hazelnuts and crispy brioche croutons add a delightful textural contrast. The peppery notes of arugula provide a refreshing balance, making each bite a harmonious blend of flavors that dance on the palate.

Delicata Squash: charred squash, cucumber pickles, sesame yogurt, candied sunflower seeds. This dish presents a stunning interplay of textures, from the creamy sesame yogurt to the crispness of the cucumber pickles. The charred notes of the squash meld beautifully with the sweetness of the candied sunflower seeds, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate, while the vibrant colors invite you to indulge in its delightful complexity.

As I savored the exquisite Layered Citrus Mousse, a delicate harmony of colors danced before my eyes: the sun-kissed yellow of citrus curd harmonized with the creamy ivory of the mousse, all crowned with a sprinkle of toasted hazelnuts. The aroma was a refreshing bouquet of zesty oranges and subtle floral notes, inviting me to indulge. Each spoonful revealed a luxurious texture, the mousse melting effortlessly into a silken embrace, while the vibrant curd offered a tangy burst that awakened the palate. The exquisite balance of sweetness and acidity lingered, a melodic finale that beckoned me to return for more.

Mackerel with blood oranges. This dish showcases the rich, oily texture of the mackerel perfectly paired with the bright, tangy sweetness of blood oranges. The vibrant colors create a stunning visual contrast, while the dish’s aroma tantalizes the senses. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of savory and citrus notes, with the mackerel’s umami depth beautifully complemented by the refreshing acidity of the oranges, making it a truly delightful experience for the palate.

Steak & Piquillo: short rib steak, piquillo pil pil. This dish is a harmonious dance of rich, succulent beef complemented by the vibrant, slightly smoky flavors of the piquillo peppers. The tender steak, with its beautifully charred exterior, exudes an enticing aroma that beckons the senses, while the piquillo pil pil adds a sumptuous creaminess, creating a delightful contrast in both texture and taste.

Roasted Duck Breast: dry aged Peking duck, citrus gastrique, pistachios, cherries. The succulent duck breast, with its perfectly rendered fat and crisp skin, is complemented beautifully by the vibrant citrus gastrique, which adds a zesty brightness to the dish. The crunch of the pistachios and the tartness of the cherries create a delightful contrast, enhancing the rich depth of flavor in each bite.

Technically a nitro cap, but it was just a normal one somehow, so we corrected.

Nitro Cap.

An old-fashioned like thing.

A bonus salmon thing.

Philly Cheesesteaks: A classic sandwich that features thinly sliced beefsteak and melted cheese in a long hoagie roll, often topped with sautéed onions and peppers. The moment you take a bite, the rich umami of the beef mingles with the creamy, gooey cheese, creating a harmonious balance of savory flavors. The crunch of the toasted bread adds a delightful texture, while the fragrant aroma of caramelized onions wafts invitingly, promising an indulgent experience that celebrates the heart of Philadelphia’s culinary heritage.

Deconstructed pumpkin pie. A delightful twist on the classic dessert, it presents each component separately, allowing for a playful assembly. The velvety pumpkin custard is complemented by a crisp, buttery crust, while the spiced whipped cream adds a luscious finish. The warm, inviting aroma of cinnamon and nutmeg dances in the air, promising a harmonious blend of sweetness and earthiness. Each bite reveals a symphony of textures, from the creamy filling to the satisfying crunch, making for a truly engaging culinary experience.

Mini Sweets: assorted desserts.

Dehydrated towelettes.

Dry ice to “inflate” the moist towelettes.

Very similar to The Bazaar in LA (food-wise). I’m not sure a holiday is the ideal night, but they did do a good job — except for pacing (too slow at the beginning, then too fast).

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: José Andrés, Spanish Cuisine, ThanksGavin, ThanksGavin 2024, The Bazaar

Eating Tysons – Wren

Jul12

Restaurant: Wren

Location: 1825 Capital One Dr S 11th Floor, Tysons, VA 22102. (703) 429-4365

Date: November 27, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese

Chef: Yo Matsuzaki

Rating: ???

Opened in September 2021 on the 11th floor of the Watermark Hotel at Capital One Center, Wren is the flagship restaurant of B.F. Saul Company Hospitality Group’s newest property. The name, drawn from the Japanese word for “love,” hints at the guiding hand of Executive Chef Yo Matsuzaki, who melds the convivial spirit of a Tokyo izakaya with the seasonal bounty of the Mid-Atlantic. Sushi, sashimi and robata-grilled skewers share menu space with Virginia seafood and Shenandoah produce, all presented in small-plate format meant for table-wide sampling. Behind the marble bar, a cocktail program built around Japanese whiskies, shōchū and local craft spirits reinforces the East-meets-East-Coast theme, while a tight list of sake and Old World wines keeps the mood exploratory.

Wren’s interior amplifies the concept. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the fast-rising Tysons skyline, but inside the palette is restrained—slatted white oak, indigo banquettes and hand-cast copper lighting recall both Japanese minimalism and the region’s craft heritage. The room flows onto an open-air terrace planted with native greenery, letting after-work crowds segue seamlessly from happy hour to dinner under the stars. Since opening, Wren has helped recast Tysons Corner from office park to bona fide dining destination, landing on Washingtonian’s “Best Restaurants” shortlist and becoming a magnet for Capital One employees, hotel guests and Washington-area diners willing to ride Metro’s Silver Line for something new. With its confident synthesis of cultures and its elevated yet relaxed vibe, Wren now serves as a culinary compass point for Northern Virginia’s rapidly evolving food scene.
Tokyo-born and Yokohama-raised, Executive Chef Yo Matsuzaki came to the United States more than two decades ago after graduating from Tsuji Culinary Institute. His résumé reads like a tour of contemporary Japanese cooking on both coasts: early formative years at Morimoto in New York, a sous-chef post at Masa’s Bar M and then the opening team of Blue Ribbon Izakaya; in Washington he led the kitchens at Zentan, Nama and Chaplin’s, earning praise from the Washington Post for “elevating izakaya fare without losing its soul.” Stints at José Andrés’ America Eats Tavern and Michael Mina’s Pabu added Mid-Atlantic sourcing and robata discipline to his skill set before Capital One Center lured him to Tysons Corner to open Wren, the signature restaurant of the Watermark Hotel.

Matsuzaki’s cooking at Wren might be described as “Tokyo tavern meets Virginia harvest.” He treats local ingredients—Rappahannock oysters, Shenandoah lamb, Loudoun County mushrooms—with classic Japanese techniques such as binchōtan grilling, shio koji curing and dashi steeping, then finishes them with the bright acidity and herbaceous notes he picked up in Mina’s kitchens. Guests come for dishes like Chesapeake blue-crab okonomiyaki with sorrel-yuzu mayo, wagyu tataki drizzled in smoked ponzu, and a show-stopping whole rockfish grilled over cherry wood and served with pickled ramps. The beverage list mirrors the food: small-producer sake, Japanese-style highballs and Virginia wines poured from Coravin to encourage exploration.

Accolades have followed quickly: Wren was named one of Northern Virginia Magazine’s “Best New Restaurants” of the year and Matsuzaki landed on Washingtonian’s “10 Chefs to Watch” list. He credits his success to an underlying philosophy he calls wa, a notion of harmonious balance—between tradition and innovation, land and sea, precision and playfulness. “If a dish tells the story of where we are and who grew or caught the ingredients,” he likes to say, “then it belongs on the menu.” That conviction, paired with the chef’s pedigree, has made Wren one of Tysons Corner’s most quietly exciting dining rooms.

This isn’t the Tysons I remember.

The menu at Wren features a diverse selection of Japanese-inspired dishes, emphasizing small plates and shared dining experiences. Highlights include fresh seafood options such as hamachi carpaccio and oysters, alongside grilled items like yakitori and seasonal vegetables. The salad section offers creative combinations, while the ‘age’ category showcases expertly fried dishes. For a heartier option, the ‘men & gohan’ section presents comforting rice dishes, including wagyu fried rice, blending traditional flavors with modern techniques.

The menu.

Hamachi Carpaccio: yellowtail sashimi / avocado / warm jalapeno citrus soy. The delicate slices of yellowtail sashimi glisten with a translucent sheen, inviting you to explore their subtle flavors. The creamy avocado adds a velvety texture, beautifully complemented by the warm jalapeno that imparts a gentle heat, while the citrus soy ties the dish together with a bright, zesty finish that lingers on the palate.

Baby Beets & Horenso: baby spinach / endive / walnuts / candied ginger / maple balsamic vinaigrette. The vivid crimson of the beets contrasts beautifully with the delicate greens, while the candied ginger adds a delightful sweetness that dances on the palate. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of earthiness from the beets and the crisp, refreshing crunch of the endive, enveloped in the rich, tangy embrace of the maple balsamic vinaigrette.

Kakuni Kushi: grilled miso braised short ribs / shiso chimichurri / kimchi slaw. The tender, succulent short ribs are beautifully complemented by the vibrant shiso chimichurri, which adds a refreshing herbal note, while the kimchi slaw introduces a delightful crunch and a hint of spice. The dish presents a harmonious balance of savory, tangy, and umami flavors, with a rich aroma that entices the senses and a visually appealing arrangement that invites exploration.

Pork Belly Bao Buns: slow-braised pork belly / pickled cucumber / cilantro. The delicate softness of the bao envelops the rich, unctuous pork belly, while the bright acidity of the pickled cucumber cuts through the richness, adding a refreshing crunch. The fragrant notes of cilantro elevate each bite, creating a harmonious balance of textures and flavors that linger delightfully on the palate.

Tokyo Chicken: Japanese style crispy fried chicken thighs / house tare / cabbage slaw. The golden-brown exterior crackles delightfully with each bite, revealing tender, juicy meat that bursts with umami-rich flavor. The house tare adds a sweet and savory depth, while the bright, crunchy cabbage slaw provides a refreshing contrast, both in texture and taste, balancing the dish beautifully.

Gindara: miso marinated black cod / chili garlic eggplant. The black cod is exquisitely tender, its silky texture enhanced by the umami-rich miso marinade, while the chili garlic eggplant adds a subtle heat and a velvety mouthfeel that contrasts beautifully with the fish. The dish presents a harmonious palette of deep browns and vibrant purples, enticing both the eyes and the palate with its aromatic depth and balanced flavors.

Yatai Ramen: chicken confit / swiss chard / shaved corn / soft boiled egg / black garlic oil / shio tonkotsu broth. The rich, velvety shio tonkotsu broth envelops each ingredient, creating a harmonious balance of umami and subtle sweetness. The tender chicken confit adds a luxurious mouthfeel, while the vibrant green of the swiss chard and the delicate sheen of the black garlic oil elevate the visual appeal, inviting a deep exploration of flavor with each slurp.

Kinoko Tempura: maitake mushroom, chanterelle mushroom, sesame salt, truffle crème fraîche dipping sauce. The golden-brown tempura offers a delicate crunch, while the earthy umami of the mushrooms harmonizes beautifully with the luxurious truffle crème fraîche. The sesame salt adds a subtle nutty depth, elevating each bite into a symphony of flavor and texture that dances on the palate.

Tasty and modern, but just slightly “white bread” — like it was missing complex and dashi flavors. Not totally snappy.

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: fusion, parents, ThanksGavin, thanksgiving, Tyson's Corner, Virginia

Salon at I-Naba

Jul10

Restaurant: Inaba Restaurant (secret sushi) [1, 2]

Location: 20920 Hawthorne Blvd Ste 110, Torrance, CA 90503. (310) 371-6675

Date: November 22, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Omakase Sushi

Chef: Hiroshi Takahashi

Rating: Awesome

Tonight’s dinner at I-Naba was at their special “secret” new sushi bar tucked away behind the restaurant. I was invited last minute by my friend Andrew for an all Salon dinner.

Inaba Restaurant opened on Hawthorne Boulevard in 1998 as the first mainland U.S. outpost of a small Tokyo group known for specialist tempura counters and hand-cut soba shops. The founder, chef-owner Kazuhiko Inoue, wanted a place where the fast-growing Japanese community in Torrance could taste the kind of perfectly gauged batter and shimmering dashi he had learned to make in Ginza. Backed by the Inaba family and still run by them today—Inoue’s daughter Saki now manages the dining room while veteran fry master Hiroshi Takahashi commands the seven-seat tempura bar—the restaurant has resisted expansion and social-media flash, choosing instead to keep its forty-odd seats filled through word of mouth and long-held trust.

Culinarily, Inaba works like a workshop rather than a modern Californian fusion spot: buckwheat from Hokkaido is milled in-house each morning for soba, shrimp are butterflied to exact millimeter depth so they lie flat in the fryer, and the cottonseed-sesame oil is replaced several times a service to keep the batter pale and aromatic. The room mirrors that quiet rigor—unfinished cedar beams, shoji screens, and a trickling stone fountain soften the hum of Hawthorne traffic outside. In a South Bay landscape dotted with ramen parlors and high-energy izakayas, Inaba has become a lodestar for classical technique; visiting Japanese executives sit elbow-to-elbow with local chefs who drop in after their own shifts to benchmark their dashi against Inoue’s. Its disciplined, almost ceremonial approach to tempura and noodles has made the restaurant less a trend and more a culinary touchstone—an anchor that reminds Torrance, year after year, how transportive simplicity can be when every detail is honored.

The 2013 Vintage Dom Pérignon hails from the prestigious Champagne region of France, crafted by the renowned Moët & Chandon. This exceptional blend showcases the elegance of both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, offering a refined style that exudes sophistication. With its notes of citrus, brioche, and subtle minerality, it pairs beautifully with delicate seafood dishes or creamy cheeses, making it an ideal choice for celebratory moments.

This is the private sushi bar.

A quiet fixture in L.A.’s South Bay for more than a decade, chef Hiroshi Takahashi presides over the 14-seat tempura counter and adjoining dining room at Inaba Restaurant in Torrance. Born in Nagano and formally schooled in the soba craft there, Takahashi apprenticed at the original Tempura Inaba in Tokyo’s Kamata district before spending stints at Ginza Kyubey and the Kaiseki house Wakuden in Kyoto. He was sent to California in 2010 to helm the brand’s U.S. outpost, bringing with him a fastidious Edomae sensibility sharpened by the lighter touch he picked up cooking kaiseki. Local critics quickly took notice: the L.A. Times called his batter “gossamer yet structured,” and Michelin added Inaba to its Bib Gourmand list in 2019; Japanese TV food writer Tamio Ikeda dubbed him “the ambassador of California shun,” a nod to the chef’s habit of sourcing Santa Barbara spot prawns and Weiser Family Farms vegetables the morning they hit their peak.

The “secret” i-naba sushi private omakase room is tucked away inside the Izakaya/Tempura house. Basically, one chef and us.

House-made buckwheat soba with Hokkaido uni and wasabi dashi. Stunning. Bright flavors. Bitey, rich noodles. Really good. The delicate, nutty essence of the buckwheat soba harmonizes beautifully with the creamy, briny richness of the Hokkaido uni, while the wasabi dashi provides a gentle, invigorating kick that elevates each bite. The dish presents a delightful interplay of textures, from the silky smoothness of the uni to the satisfying chew of the noodles, creating a captivating culinary experience.

Mullet Sashimi, yuzu, sea salt. Also very lovely. The delicate, translucent slices of mullet glisten with a subtle sheen, inviting you to savor their buttery texture. The bright acidity of yuzu dances on the palate, harmonizing beautifully with the crystalline sea salt, creating a refreshing and invigorating experience that lingers long after each bite.

Ikuara Chawnamushi. Really delicate and fabulous. The silky custard melts in your mouth, revealing the subtle umami of the dashi and the gentle sweetness of seasonal ingredients. Its ethereal texture is complemented by a fragrant, almost floral aroma, creating a harmonious balance that invites contemplation with each spoonful.

Just a few “decent” champagnes.

Presented with a masterful flourish, the dish of grilled mackerel captivates the senses with its shimmering, deep bronze skin, artfully charred to reveal a glistening sheen that hints at its succulence. As the aromatic wafts of smokiness entwine with the briny freshness of the sea, they evoke a sense of coastal nostalgia. The texture is a harmonious juxtaposition of crispness on the exterior, yielding to the tender, buttery flesh within, each bite releasing a burst of umami that dances on the palate. A subtle citrus note lingers, adding a bright counterpoint to the rich, savory depth, making this dish an unforgettable symphony of flavors that beckons for another indulgent taste.

Smoked Small Bonito. The smoke was cherry blossom and it was garnished with shiso sauce and onions. Really great too. Quite assertive. The delicate, smoky notes of the bonito harmonize beautifully with the fragrant shiso, while the crispness of the onions adds a delightful crunch. Each bite delivers a nuanced interplay of umami and subtle sweetness, inviting you to savor the complexity of flavors and textures on your palate.

Oil poached tilefish with crispy scales and seaweed gravy. Delicate. The fish glistens with a lovely sheen, its tender flesh yielding effortlessly to the fork, while the crispy scales add a delightful crunch. The umami-rich seaweed gravy envelops each bite, imparting a briny depth that beautifully complements the mild sweetness of the tilefish, creating a harmonious balance of oceanic flavors that linger on the palate.

Steamed Shirako from Hokkaido with zesty ponzu and radish. Perfect shirako — amazing. The delicate, creamy texture of the shirako is beautifully complemented by the bright acidity of the ponzu, while the crispness of the radish adds a refreshing crunch. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, inviting a sensory journey that is both refreshing and deeply satisfying.

Sous vide monkfish liver from Hokaido. Very soft and sweet. The liver boasts a delicate, buttery texture that melts in the mouth, while its subtle sweetness is accented by a hint of ocean brine. Visually striking, it presents a rich, creamy hue that invites you to savor its luxurious flavor profile, enhanced by the gentle warmth of the sous vide preparation.

House-made ginger (two types).

Shima Prefecture, Magaro. The fish was 260 lbs.

Baby sea bream cured in kombu. Baby sea bream cured in kombu. The delicate, translucent flesh of the fish glistens, revealing a subtle sheen that hints at its oceanic origins. As I take a bite, the umami richness of the kombu envelops my palate, harmonizing beautifully with the gentle sweetness of the bream, while a whisper of brininess lingers in the air, reminiscent of a serene coastal breeze.

Here we see the talented chef meticulously crafting a masterpiece, igniting the flavors that will soon delight the diners’ palates.

Torched Baracuda – The fish is lightly seared with a hint of citrus, offering a delicate balance of smokiness and brightness. The tender, flaky texture is complemented by a subtle char that enhances its natural sweetness, while the vibrant hues of the dish invite you to savor each bite. The aroma of the grilled fish mingles beautifully with the refreshing notes of the accompanying sauce, creating an elegant experience that lingers long after the last morsel is gone.

This exquisite sake is from the renowned producer Dewazakura, located in the Yamagata Prefecture. The 2020 vintage showcases a Junmai Daiginjo style, characterized by its polished rice and delicate aromas of melon and white flowers. Ideal for pairing with sashimi or light seafood dishes, it offers a refreshing finish that complements the purity of the ingredients.

Another standout is the 2021 release from the same producer, a Junmai Ginjo that captures the essence of its region with its vibrant acidity and notes of stone fruit and citrus. Its versatility makes it a perfect match for grilled chicken or flavorful vegetable dishes, enhancing the umami profile of the meal.

Japanese Knife Jar (sea bread), chewy with lots of wasabi. The vibrant green of the wasabi contrasts beautifully with the subtle, oceanic tones of the sea bread, creating a visually striking dish. Each bite delivers a delightful interplay of textures, where the softness of the bread is perfectly complemented by the sharp, pungent kick of the wasabi, awakening the palate and leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for more.

As the chef delicately assembles the tempura, the vibrant golden hue of the batter glistens under the soft lighting, promising a crisp texture that beckons the senses. The aroma wafts through the air, a tantalizing blend of warm oil and earthy vegetables, enticing with each passing moment. Upon the first bite, the delicate crunch gives way to tender morsels, their natural sweetness enhanced by a whisper of sea salt, creating a harmonious balance of flavors that lingers on the palate. This dish, a testament to the mastery of technique and the purity of ingredients, invites you to savor the artistry behind every element, leaving you enchanted and yearning for more.

Fried Japanese Green Eye Fish Handroll. Not sure I’ve had a fish stick handroll, but quite lovely. The delicate crunch of the fried exterior gives way to a tender, flaky interior, while the subtle umami of the fish harmonizes beautifully with the creamy texture of the accompanying ingredients. The vibrant colors and meticulous presentation elevate the experience, inviting you to savor each bite as the flavors unfold on your palate.

Fial Fish with its own Liver. The chew and sweetness on this dish was divine. The tender, silken texture of the fish harmonizes beautifully with the rich, unctuous liver, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that lingers pleasantly. Its delicate flavor, imbued with a hint of brininess, is artfully complemented by subtle undertones of earthiness, making each bite an exquisite experience.

Hokkaido Uni — perfect condition and grade.

Hokkaido Uni Nigiri, two ways: sea salt and soy sauce. The soy sauce was even better. The delicate, creamy texture of the uni melts luxuriously on the palate, while the umami-rich soy sauce amplifies its briny sweetness, creating a harmonious balance that dances between oceanic freshness and savory depth. Each bite is a sumptuous experience, with the glossy sheen of the nigiri inviting the senses to indulge in this exquisite culinary delight.

Otoro (18 day aged) Sushi. Incredible. The luscious, marbled fat of the otoro melts on the palate, releasing a symphony of umami that is both rich and delicate. Its vibrant pink hue, glistening with a slight sheen, invites the senses, while the subtle aroma of the ocean lingers in the air, enhancing the overall experience of this exquisite piece of sushi.

Cured Sawa. Salty! The vibrant hues of the cured fish glisten under a delicate sheen, inviting you to experience its rich, briny essence. Each bite reveals a delightful balance of flavors, where the saltiness is beautifully complemented by a subtle sweetness, evoking the essence of the ocean while offering a silky texture that melts effortlessly on the palate.

The G. Khan 2022 Chardonnay from Marfarm Vineyards in Edna Valley showcases a vibrant expression of California’s terroir. This organically farmed wine bursts with notes of crisp green apple and ripe pear, complemented by a subtle hint of vanilla from oak aging. Its bright acidity makes it a perfect match for seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a classic lobster risotto.

With its well-balanced structure and refreshing finish, this Chardonnay is a testament to the region’s potential for crafting elegant whites. The wine’s mineral undertones and citrus zest lend themselves beautifully to light salads and creamy pasta dishes, making it an excellent choice for various culinary pairings.

Mizataki Mushroom Dashi. So delicate and light. Smoky flavors. The dashi envelops the palate with a whisper of umami, its ethereal broth shimmering with a translucent allure. Each sip unveils a harmonious interplay of earthy notes and subtle smokiness, beckoning the senses with a fragrant bouquet that recalls a serene forest after rain.

Eel. Super soft and amazing.

Housemade Tomago. A delicate Japanese omelet that is both sweet and savory, with a silky texture that melts in your mouth. The golden layers are meticulously crafted, showcasing a beautiful gradient of color that invites you to take a bite. As you savor each morsel, the subtle umami notes mingle with a hint of sweetness, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate, while the aroma of fresh eggs adds a comforting warmth to the experience.

Coconut Cream Pie, Kappacino, and Blood Orange Sorbetto. The Coconut Cream Pie is a luscious balance of rich, velvety coconut filling nestled within a buttery crust, while the Kappacino offers an inviting aroma with its deep coffee notes intertwined with a hint of creamy sweetness. The Blood Orange Sorbetto is a refreshing explosion of vibrant citrus, striking a harmonious balance between tartness and delicate sweetness, beautifully presented in a radiant, jewel-like hue. Each dish is a testament to the art of flavor, showcasing a delightful interplay of textures and tastes that linger on the palate.

The gang. This was an incredible night with some absolutely first-rate sushi — up there with the best I have had this year. Not surprisingly, it’s similar in style to Miyagi. The wines were amazing, with all of them shining. The ’96 (particularly the first bottle) was awesome, but so were all the others. Even the ’12 opened up after a couple of hours into amazing white flowers. Best of all, the company was extremely convivial and relaxed. Great night! The sushi was a symphony of freshness, with each piece showcasing a delicate balance of flavors and textures, from the melt-in-your-mouth tuna to the crisp, vibrant garnishes. The wines, with their floral notes and complex layers, elevated the experience, creating a harmonious interplay that lingered delightfully on the palate.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: BYOG, Champagne, Gelato, Salon, Sushi, Torrance

Taberu Time

Jul08

Restaurant: Taberu LA

Location: 806 E 3rd St Unit 140 Los Angeles, CA 90013.

Date: November 16, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Comfort Food

Rating: Decent

Bovon organized this fun but giant dinner.

In a neighborhood thick with ramen joints, French bistros and tasting-menu destinations, Taberu Shabu Shabu has carved out a niche as the area’s go-to spot for communal hot pot and late-night comfort. Food writers credit it with helping to normalize premium Japanese near Little Tokyo, and local chefs are known to drop by after service for a restorative pot of kombu broth and farmers-market chrysanthemum greens. With its patient, Japanese-Californian sensibility and an atmosphere that feels equal parts izakaya and modern loft, Taberu has become a quiet anchor in DTLA’s fast-shifting food landscape—proof that “to eat” can still mean to connect, to linger and to rediscover simplicity.

A giant 25-30 person Bovon gang dinner at Taberu.

Gathered around the elegantly set table, these enthusiastic diners prepare to savor a memorable culinary journey, with one gentleman expertly pouring a fine wine to enhance the experience.

Oyster shooter. Good, but I would have liked more acidity. The briny essence of the oyster is complemented by a delicate interplay of textures, as the smoothness of the liquid contrasts with the tender chew of the mollusk. A hint of the sea lingers on the palate, inviting a burst of brightness that would elevate the experience further.

Sashimi. Very nice quality fish. Pretty straight up, however. The fish glistens with a fresh sheen, inviting your senses to explore its delicate, buttery texture. Each slice melts in your mouth, offering a clean and subtle sweetness that is beautifully enhanced by a whisper of ocean brine, leaving a lingering freshness on the palate.

Wagyu skewer. Juicy. The rich marbling of the Wagyu creates a melt-in-your-mouth experience, while the caramelized exterior adds a delightful crunch. Each bite bursts with umami, enhanced by a whisper of smokiness that lingers, making this skewer an irresistible indulgence for the senses.

Uni and Ikura. Nice quality. The creamy, briny richness of the uni melds beautifully with the vibrant, bursting textures of the ikura. As you take a bite, the warm umami notes of the sea envelop your palate, while the glossy pearls of salmon roe pop delightfully, releasing a delicate, oceanic flavor that lingers softly, inviting you to savor each mouthful.

Shrimp.

Jewish egg roll. Salmon and cream cheese. A bit odd. The crispy, golden exterior yields to a rich, creamy filling that balances the lusciousness of the cream cheese with the savory depth of the salmon. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of textures, while aromatic hints of dill and a subtle tang weave through, creating a uniquely satisfying experience that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Chicken thighs. Very juicy and excellent. Nicely seasoned. The succulent meat, with its golden-brown crisp skin, exudes an enticing aroma that lingers in the air. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of savory spices, complemented by a tender, moist texture that dances on the palate, leaving a delightful, lingering warmth.

Wagyu donburi. Quite good, but I would have liked the rice more vinegared. The luscious, marbled beef, with its rich umami notes, beautifully contrasts the delicate grains, which could benefit from a brighter acidity to elevate the overall harmony. The warm, savory aroma wafts invitingly, promising a satisfying culinary experience that dances on the palate.

Albacore nigiri about 30 minutes after everything else, and that was the end. The delicate, buttery slices of albacore glistened under a soft sheen, inviting with their subtle pink hue. Each piece melted on the palate, offering a gentle umami embrace, while the vinegared rice provided a perfect contrast in texture, grounding the experience with its slight sweetness and tender chew. A hint of wasabi lingered in the background, enhancing the overall harmony of flavors.

This was an enjoyable dinner, but the group was too large and the food — while very well executed — a bit “boring” for my taste. Plus, we had to go for second dinner!

The Comtes de Champagne, produced by Taittinger in the renowned Champagne region, showcases the elegance of the 2012 vintage. This Blanc de Blancs is a stunning expression of Chardonnay, offering vibrant notes of citrus, green apple, and hints of brioche. Ideal for pairing with oysters or delicate seafood dishes, it elevates any celebration with its fine bubbles and lingering finish.

The 2012 Saint-Aubin En Remilly Premier Cru from the renowned producer is a stunning example of Burgundy’s exquisite terroir. This Chardonnay exhibits bright acidity and layered notes of green apple, citrus zest, and subtle minerality, reflecting its high-quality vineyard origins. Pair it beautifully with roasted chicken or creamy risotto to enhance its elegance.

With its harmonious balance and rich texture, this wine is a delightful companion to seafood dishes, particularly buttery scallops or lobster. The oak treatment adds a hint of toastiness, complementing the wine’s fresh fruit character and making it a versatile choice for various culinary experiences.

The gang. And speaking of gang, we tried to go get second dinner in Thai Town!

Second dinner at Pork Gang!

David was just out of it.

Here we find a moment of tranquility as one of our diners savors the experience, embodying the joy of fine cuisine amidst a lively atmosphere.

Here we see a delighted diner savoring a refreshing drink, enjoying the vibrant atmosphere and flavors of the evening meal.

Roast duck. Very juicy. Not crispy at all. The succulent meat glistens with a rich, amber hue, inviting you to savor each tender bite. The aroma is a warm embrace, a hint of smokiness lingering in the air, while the flavors unfold with a delicate balance of savory and slightly sweet notes, creating a comforting yet sophisticated experience.

Boat noodles. Nice. These delightful bowls of broth, typically rich and aromatic, envelop the senses with their deeply complex flavors. The interplay of tender noodles and succulent meat, combined with a hint of spice and the fragrance of fresh herbs, creates a harmonious balance that dances on the palate, inviting you to savor every slurp.

Pad Thai with crispy pork belly. This classic dish bursts with vibrant flavors, where the sweet and tangy tamarind sauce dances harmoniously with the umami richness of the crispy pork belly. The noodles, perfectly tender yet satisfyingly chewy, are adorned with a medley of fresh herbs and crunchy peanuts, creating a delightful contrast in both texture and taste. The enticing aroma of wok hei adds an irresistible depth, making each bite a comforting yet sophisticated experience.

Beef “jerky.” This classic snack is a flavorful treat that offers a satisfying chewiness. The rich, umami notes of the beef are beautifully balanced with a hint of smokiness, while the slightly sweet and salty seasoning enhances its savory profile. Each bite reveals a tapestry of textures, from the tender strands to the occasional crisp edge, inviting you to linger over its rustic charm.

Fried rice. Very sweet (but delicious). The dish presents a harmonious blend of grains, each bite offering a delicate chewiness that contrasts beautifully with the subtle crunch of sautéed vegetables. Aromas of caramelization waft through the air, while the sweetness lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor its comforting richness.

Thai sausage is a delightful blend of spices and herbs, offering a unique taste experience. The aroma is intoxicating, with hints of lemongrass and garlic wafting through the air. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of sweet and savory, complemented by a satisfying snap from the casing. The vibrant colors of the dish, paired with a side of fresh herbs, elevate its presentation, making it not just a meal, but a feast for the senses.

Shrimp cakes — my favorite of the round. The delicate crunch of the exterior gives way to a tender, succulent interior, bursting with the umami richness of fresh shrimp. Each bite is elevated by a hint of citrus zest, complementing the savory notes and creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Bovon, BYOG, Gelato, Izakaya, Japanese, Second Dinner, sunday crew, Taberu, Thai Town, Uni, Wagyū

Kinjiro Rules

Jul06

Restaurant: Kinjiro [1, 2, 3]

Location: 424 E 2nd St, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 229-8200

Date: November 15, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese

Rating: Great modern Japanese comfort food

I last went here about a decade ago with the Babykillers — and before that to BOS in this same spot. BOS was good, but kinda extreme, being an offal restaurant. The owners then rebooted the space as Kinjiro, a modern Izakaya (bar with food), which has proved very popular.

It looks pretty much the same as it did before, with slight superficial alterations.

Once upon a time, a boy named Ninomiya Kinjiro rose from humble origins and became one of the most beloved statesmen in Japan, bringing food and joy to the people during hard times via agricultural reform.
We, Nomiya (“Tavern”) KINJIRO, strive to carry on our namesake’s mission and bring happiness to our customers via good food & drink.

The menu.

Uni, Ikura, Scallop & Blue Crab (1pc | single serving). Dashi-seasoned Ikura. Very soft with a sweet and “sour” dashi. Lovely.

King Salmon Sashimi (New Zealand | 7pc). Great salmon.

Cured Mackerel “Saba Kobujime” Sashimi. Lovely and oily (in a great way).

American Wagyu Beef Tataki. Soft and meaty.

Assorted “Nukazuke” Pickles. Not quite as sour (or sweet) as I might like.

Kibinago Japanese Sardine Tempura. Great.

Agedashi Fried Tofu with Organic Mushrooms Ankake Sauce. Always the best!

Chilean Sea Bass with Saikyo Miso. Very light and lovely.

Uni Risotto. Super soft and yummy.

Free-range Duck Breast with Kanzuri.

Thick-cut Beef Tongue with Yuzu Negi. Chewy, hot, and delicious.

Beef Tendon, Tongue Miso Stew. Deep and rich.

Hot Inaniwa Udon Noodles with Braised Beef Tongue Soup. Not really udon, but very Pho-like.

Beef Tongue Curry Rice. Awesome!

Marinated American Wagyu Boneless Short Rib. Yum.

American Wagyu Sukiyaki-Don (Simmered Beef over Rice, Poached Egg).

Overall, an amazingly fun night. Great company. Great wines. And some really tasty comfort food that paired very well.

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By: agavin
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Election Night at A.O.C.

Jul04

Focaccia. Burrata, anchovy, caciocavallo, salsa rustica & aleppo.

more info here.

By: agavin
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Good Night at Good Alley

Jul01

Restaurant: Good Alley

Location: 8450 E Valley Blvd #108, Rosemead, CA 91770. (626) 280-2800

Date: October 20, 2024

Cuisine: Dumplings and small plates

Rating: Great, but needs LL

Good Alley just opened from the same people as JiRong.

It’s right next door, but is much more casual and modern.

A line, even two weeks in.

Very crowded, despite having just opened.

The menu.

Cucumber with XO Sauce. Solid cucumber. Nice crunch, a tiny bit sweet and spicy. The vibrant green hue of the cucumber contrasts beautifully with the rich, umami-packed XO sauce, creating a dish that is as visually appealing as it is flavorful. Each bite offers a delightful interplay of crisp texture and subtle heat, inviting you to savor the complexities of this simple yet sophisticated combination.

Japanese Scallops with Lemon Dressing. Fresh and lovely. These delicate scallops glisten like pearls, their translucent flesh hinting at a tender sweetness that is perfectly complemented by the bright acidity of the lemon dressing. Each bite is a harmonious blend of oceanic brininess and zesty brightness, creating an exquisite balance that dances on the palate.

Xi’an Cold Noodles. Really good take on the infamous “bang bang” noodles. The sauce was tangy and spicy and quite excellent. The vibrant hues of the dish beckon with a glossy sheen, while the contrasting textures of the tender noodles and crunchy garnishes create a delightful mouthfeel. Each bite offers a harmonious dance of heat and acidity, inviting you to savor the complex layers of flavor that linger on the palate.

Sliced Beef & Ox Tongue in Chili Sauce. 8/10 version of this favorite. Good meat and some heat. I would have liked just a bit more numbing and peanut. I miss the fiery GuYi version. The dish presents a vibrant symphony of colors, with tender slices of beef and ox tongue glistening in a rich, ruby-hued chili sauce. Each bite offers a harmonious blend of savory depth and subtle spice, inviting you to savor the interplay of textures as the meat dissolves luxuriously on the palate, while the fragrant notes of chili linger enticingly in the air.

Wagyu Beef Chinese “Burger”. Crispy and the meat was tender, but it wasn’t nearly as savory as the pork variant. The Wagyu beef, with its marbled richness, offered a luxurious mouthfeel that contrasted beautifully with the crunchy exterior. While the flavor profile leaned towards subtlety, a gentle umami lingered, inviting a deeper exploration of its umami nuances.

Kurobuta Pork & Celery Dumplings and Three Delicacies Dumplings. We had one plate of each, but I forgot to photo one—they looked nearly identical from the outside and were both very tasty. The delicate wrappers encased a savory filling that was both succulent and rich, with the Kurobuta pork offering a hint of sweetness that harmonized beautifully with the crispness of celery. Each bite was a delightful interplay of soft texture and aromatic flavors, leaving a lingering essence that beckoned for more.

Kurobuta Pork Chinese “Burger”. Great. The succulent kurobuta pork is nestled within a pillowy, lightly steamed bun, creating a delightful contrast in texture. With each bite, the rich, savory flavors of the pork intermingle with subtle hints of umami, while the bun’s delicate sweetness offers a perfect balance, inviting you to savor the experience with each mouthful.

Sichuan Dan Dan Noodles. These were a quick, lovely take on Dan Dan — but with almost no chili. Still, I liked all that sesame and the meaty flavor. We also had an (unpictured) Sichuan-style Beef Zhajiang Noodles, which were a bit similar, but with chunkier beef and no sesame. The Dan Dan noodles were a delightful balance of creamy sesame richness and savory umami, their silky texture gliding effortlessly across the palate, while the subtle aromatic notes lingered in the air, inviting each bite. In contrast, the Zhajiang noodles offered a heartier experience, with robust, tender beef complementing the dish’s earthy undertones, creating a satisfying and comforting meal.

Kurobuta Pork & Crab Meat Soup Dumplings. Amazing! The delicate skin encases a rich filling that bursts with the umami of the kurobuta pork, perfectly balanced by the sweet brininess of the crab meat. Each dumpling is a harmonious blend of textures, with a glossy sheen that hints at the savory broth within, inviting you to savor the experience as the fragrant steam wafts through the air.

Kurobuta Pork Soup Dumplings. Slightly more focused and perhaps even better. These delicate dumplings offer a sublime balance of rich, savory broth and tender, juicy pork, all encased in a thin, translucent wrapper that glistens enticingly. The aroma is inviting, with hints of ginger and scallions wafting through the air, while each bite reveals a harmonious blend of flavors that dance on the palate, leaving a lingering warmth and satisfaction.

All the dishes we had here were first rate. The format is a touch annoying, given that it’s crowded with smaller tables and that they don’t yet have a liquor license. And even when they do, without reservations and with the small tables it would be good for a 4 person dinner really. 6 person lunch when less crowded.

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By: agavin
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Final Miyagi

Jun29

Restaurant: Sushi Miyagi [ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ]

Location: 150 S Barrington Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90049. (323) 382-5635

Date: October 17, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi

Rating: Top Shelf Omakase Sushi

It is with great sadness that we visited Miyagi for the last time. Real estate issues have tragically led to their closure :-(.

So of course we had to bring some great white burgs, Raveneau in particular.

The 1995 Chablis Grand Cru from Domaine François Raveneau showcases the epitome of elegance and complexity. Hailing from the esteemed Chablis region in Burgundy, this wine presents a vibrant acidity balanced by rich notes of ripe citrus and flint. Its minerality reflects the unique terroir, making it a perfect companion for fresh oysters or a classic sole meunière, enhancing the dining experience with its bright yet profound character.

Amuses.

Oyster (Baja) Caviar: A delicate treat that bursts with the essence of the sea. The glistening pearls, glinting like jewels, offer a briny, umami-rich explosion that dances on the palate, while their silky texture provides a luxurious mouthfeel. Each bite is an invitation to savor the ocean’s bounty, enhanced by a whisper of minerality and a hint of grassy freshness that lingers long after the last morsel.

Monkfish liver with jelly. Monkfish liver is an exquisite delicacy, smooth and rich, paired with a delicate jelly that enhances its natural umami. The luxurious creaminess of the liver contrasts beautifully with the subtle sweetness of the jelly, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate. The dish presents itself in a stunning array of colors, inviting you to indulge in its velvety texture and complex flavors, while the gentle aroma hints at the ocean’s depth, making each bite a memorable experience.

Green Eye Fish (salt fried). This dish is a delightful revelation, with the crispy skin giving way to tender, flaky flesh that is both savory and subtly sweet. The golden-brown exterior crackles with each bite, releasing a fragrant aroma of sea salt and a hint of umami, while the fish’s natural juices create a harmonious balance that dances on the palate.

Boiled shirako (cod sperm) with ponzu. My favorite prep of this. The delicate, creamy texture of the shirako contrasts beautifully with the bright, citrusy notes of the ponzu, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. Each bite offers a rich umami depth, enhanced by the subtle aroma of the ocean, making it a truly captivating experience.

The 2005 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir from Domaine François Raveneau showcases the exquisite terroir of the Chablis region in France. This renowned white wine offers a complex palate with notes of ripe citrus, flint, and subtle oak, balanced beautifully by its vibrant acidity. Pair it with fresh oysters or a delicate sole meunière to enhance its mineral character.

With its elegant structure and depth, this vintage exemplifies the classic Chablis style, where the purity of Chardonnay is highlighted through meticulous winemaking. The wine’s lingering finish and nuanced flavors make it a perfect companion for rich, creamy dishes, such as lobster with drawn butter.

Amadai snapper. Crab and onion sauce. Oil bathed to cook. The sauce was incredible. The amadai snapper, with its delicate, flaky flesh, presents a stunning contrast to the rich, umami-laden crab and onion sauce, which envelops each bite in a velvety embrace. As you savor this dish, the subtle sweetness of the snapper mingles with the savory depths of the sauce, creating a harmonious balance that lingers tantalizingly on the palate.

Pike Mackerel – A stunning specimen showcasing its iridescent skin and delicate, flaky flesh. The dish offers a lean yet rich flavor, with subtle hints of the sea that linger on the palate. The exquisite texture, complemented by a lightly charred exterior, creates a delightful contrast to its moist interior, while the aroma is reminiscent of a fresh ocean breeze, further enhancing the overall experience.

Snow crab from Hokkaido. Kani miso. The delicate sweetness of the snow crab is beautifully complemented by the rich, umami-packed kani miso, which adds a luxurious creaminess to each bite. The vibrant, glistening white flesh contrasts with the deep, earthy tones of the miso, creating a visually stunning presentation that entices the palate. As you savor this exquisite dish, the subtle brininess of the ocean lingers, evoking the pristine waters of Hokkaido, while the tender texture of the crab melts effortlessly in your mouth.

The chef’s work box.

The 2011 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur from Domaine François Raveneau is a quintessential expression of its terroir, showcasing the elegance and minerality synonymous with this prestigious region. With bright acidity and layered complexity, it reveals notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a saline finish, making it a perfect companion to oysters or a delicate white fish dish.

This wine’s vibrant character is enhanced by its age, allowing for subtle hints of honey and flint to emerge, harmonizing beautifully with the fresh fruit profile. Ideal for a special occasion, it pairs exquisitely with rich seafood or creamy cheeses, elevating the overall dining experience.

The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir from Domaine William Fèvre showcases the elegance of the Chablis region. With its mineral-driven profile, this Chardonnay offers notes of ripe pear, citrus zest, and a distinct flintiness that speaks to the terroir. Perfectly paired with delicate seafood dishes like oysters or grilled sole, it elevates the dining experience with its crisp acidity and long, lingering finish.

From the renowned vineyards of Chablis, this vintage exemplifies the balance between richness and freshness, making it a stunning choice for those who appreciate the finer nuances of Burgundy wines. The complexity and depth in flavor make it a delightful companion for creamy sauces or a classic coq au vin.

Triggerfish. Monkfish liver.

Japanese Scallop: Slightly bitter from skin. Delicious. The scallop’s delicate, translucent flesh glistens with a pearlescent sheen, inviting you to savor its sweet oceanic essence. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of briny notes and subtle sweetness, enhanced by the intriguing contrast of the slightly bitter skin, creating a symphony of flavor that dances on the palate.

Wild baby yellowtail. Soy sauce marinated with Japanese black pepper. The fish glistens with an enticing sheen, its delicate, buttery flesh offering a sublime contrast to the subtle heat of the black pepper. As I take a bite, the umami-rich soy sauce envelops my palate, while the gentle spice lingers, enhancing the overall experience with its aromatic complexity.

Hari squid with lemon and shiso. This dish showcases tender squid elevated by the bright, zesty notes of lemon and the unique, herbaceous quality of shiso. The vibrant colors of the dish entice the eye, while the delicate balance of umami and acidity dances on the palate, creating a refreshing yet complex flavor experience that lingers delightfully. The interplay of textures, from the slightly chewy squid to the crispness of the shiso, adds an intriguing dimension, making each bite a joyful exploration of taste.

Spanish mackerel with green onion. The dish presents an alluring contrast between the buttery richness of the fish and the sharp, vibrant notes of the green onion. The mackerel’s skin glistens with a delicate sheen, while the green onion adds a refreshing crunch that elevates each bite, infusing the experience with a fragrant burst of umami. The interplay of flavors dances on the palate, leaving a lingering, savory essence that beckons for another taste.

Charred Barracuda. This dish features expertly grilled barracuda, showcasing a perfect char that adds a smoky depth to its natural flavor. The fish’s firm texture contrasts beautifully with its delicate, flaky interior, while the subtle hints of citrus elevate the dish, making each bite a harmonious balance of zest and umami. Visually, the vibrant crust glistens with a tantalizing sheen, inviting you to indulge in its rich, savory essence.

Bluefin tiuna aged 24 (or 34) days. This exquisite fish, with its rich marbling and deep, oceanic flavor, offers a luxurious experience that is both tender and umami-driven. The vibrant, ruby-red flesh glistens invitingly, while the aroma is reminiscent of a fresh sea breeze, transporting you to its natural habitat. Each bite melts in your mouth, releasing a complex blend of savory notes that linger beautifully on the palate.

Otoro: The luxurious belly of the bluefin tuna, with its rich marbling and buttery texture, truly melts in your mouth. Each delicate slice presents a glistening sheen, inviting you to savor its opulent flavor. The umami notes are profound, complemented by a hint of sweetness that lingers on the palate, while the subtle aroma of the ocean evokes a sense of tranquility. This exquisite delicacy is not just a dish; it’s an experience that beautifully captures the essence of culinary artistry.

Goldeneye snapper.

Snapper with truffle. This dish features a beautifully seared snapper, enhanced by the earthy aroma of truffle. The fish is tender and flaky, with a delicate balance of richness from the truffle that elevates its natural sweetness. The presentation is vibrant, with a glossy finish that invites you to savor each bite, while the subtle umami notes linger pleasantly on the palate.

Chawanmushi with tomato sauce. Unusual but excellent combo. The delicate, silky custard of the chawanmushi contrasts beautifully with the vibrant acidity of the tomato sauce, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. Each spoonful offers a subtle umami depth, enhanced by the freshness of the tomatoes, while the dish’s warm, inviting colors tantalize the senses before the first taste.

Black throat. Grilled onion.

Hokkaido uni: This exquisite delicacy is a true reflection of the ocean’s bounty, with its creamy texture and briny sweetness. The vibrant golden hue glistens enticingly, inviting you to indulge in its luxurious richness. Each velvety bite unravels layers of umami, complemented by a subtle hint of the sea breeze, making it an unforgettable experience for the palate.

Mexican uni.

A4 Beef.

Anago Sea Eel from Tokyo, Japan. This dish captures the essence of the ocean with its delicate, subtly sweet flavor and a melt-in-your-mouth texture. The translucent skin glistens, hinting at the fresh brininess of the sea, while the gentle aroma evokes a sense of sophistication. Each bite is a harmonious balance of umami and salinity, leaving a lingering, satisfying taste that transports you straight to the bustling streets of Tokyo.

Ikura.

Crab handroll. A delightful combination of fresh crab meat wrapped in a delicate sheet of nori, accompanied by perfectly seasoned sushi rice and a touch of wasabi. The handroll presents a beautiful contrast of vibrant colors, with the creamy white crab juxtaposed against the deep green of the nori. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of briny sweetness and umami, while the soft texture of the crab melds wonderfully with the slight chew of the rice, creating a satisfying mouthfeel that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Macha almond white gelato is a sublime creation that combines the earthy notes of matcha with the delicate creaminess of almond, resulting in a luxurious frozen dessert. The vibrant green hue of the gelato is not only visually striking but also hints at the complex flavor profile within. Each spoonful offers a silky texture that melts effortlessly on the palate, releasing layers of umami and nuttiness, while the subtle sweetness lingers gracefully, inviting another taste.

I’ll show you mine if you show me yours.

Amazing meal as always at Miyagi, with equally amazing wines.

Full lineup!

Meet the talented chef, meticulously crafting a culinary masterpiece that promises to delight every diner at the table.

Celebrating a memorable meal, this joyful group of diners is joined by the talented chef, who created the culinary delights that brought them together.

Meet the talented chef and gracious host, who together create an unforgettable dining experience steeped in tradition and culinary artistry.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Tagged as: Brentwood, BYOG, Foodie Club, Gelato, Miyagi Sushi, ravenau, Sushi, White Burgundy

Dirty Dozen at BLVD Steak

Jun27

Restaurant: Blvd Steak

Location: 13817 Ventura Blvd, Sherman Oaks, CA 91423

Date: October 16, 2024

Cuisine: Steak House

Rating: Solid

A Dirty Dozen blind Rhone tasting brings us to Blvd Steak.

Located on Restaurant Row on Ventura Boulevard in Sherman Oaks, BLVD Steak sits at the intersection of classic steakhouse and contemporary fine dining.

Rich tones of emerald, black and gold create a uniquely intimate, beautiful and vibrant setting that includes indoor seating, outdoor patios and private dining rooms. Prime cuts, fresh seafood, craft and classic cocktails, and an international wine list are the foundation of our menu.

The menu.

Jumbo shrimp cocktail: mustard aioli, cocktail sauce. The succulent jumbo shrimp are perfectly cooked, boasting a tender yet firm texture that contrasts beautifully with the creamy, tangy mustard aioli and the zesty, vibrant cocktail sauce. The dish presents an inviting array of colors, while the briny aroma of the shrimp mingles playfully with the piquant notes of the sauces, creating a delightful prelude to any meal.

Yellowtail crudo: cara cara orange, Calabrian chili, pistachio. This dish presents a captivating interplay of flavors, where the delicate sweetness of the cara cara orange harmonizes beautifully with the subtle heat of Calabrian chili. The yellowtail’s silky texture glistens like jewels against the vibrant backdrop of citrus, while the pistachios lend a delightful crunch, adding depth to each exquisite bite.

Wontons for the yellowtail.

The Wagyu Meatball: vodka sauce, parmesan. The tender richness of the Wagyu meatball is beautifully complemented by the velvety, slightly tangy vodka sauce, while the freshly grated parmesan adds a delightful umami depth. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of flavors, with the meatball’s luxurious texture mingling effortlessly with the creamy sauce, creating a comforting yet sophisticated indulgence that lingers on the palate.

Steak tartare: filet, dijon, worcestershire, pickles. The vibrant red of the finely chopped filet is beautifully complemented by the sharpness of the dijon and the umami depth of the Worcestershire sauce. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of creamy and crunchy textures, while the pickles provide a refreshing acidity that cuts through the richness, making this dish a harmonious balance of flavors that tantalizes the palate.

Caesar: roasted garlic croutons, parmesan. This classic dish captivates with its creamy dressing, balancing the umami richness of the parmesan with the aromatic warmth of roasted garlic. Each crunchy crouton adds a delightful textural contrast, while the vibrant greens provide a refreshing burst of color and a satisfying crispness that elevates the experience to new heights.

Wedge: candied bacon, tomato, blue cheese. The crisp, cool wedge of lettuce is a refreshing canvas, adorned with the sweet, smoky crunch of candied bacon, plump tomatoes, and rich blue cheese. The interplay of textures—crunchy, creamy, and juicy—creates a delightful symphony, while the vibrant colors invite you to dive in and savor each bite, where the savory notes are beautifully balanced by a whisper of sweetness and acidity.

Iberico pork chop: cranberry mango chutney. The succulent Iberico pork chop boasts a rich, buttery flavor that is perfectly complemented by the bright, tangy notes of the cranberry mango chutney. The dish presents a beautiful contrast of colors, with the deep, warm tones of the pork juxtaposed against the vibrant chutney, enticing the senses with its inviting aroma and luscious texture.

Shoestring fries are a delightful accompaniment, perfectly crispy and golden. The delicate strands are seasoned just right, offering a satisfying crunch that gives way to a tender interior. Each bite releases a warm, earthy aroma, and the golden hue invites you to indulge. The fries exude a subtle nutty flavor, enhanced by a sprinkle of sea salt, making them an irresistible treat that dances on the palate with every crispy mouthful.

Onion rings: Crispy, golden-brown batter encases sweet, tender onion slices, creating a satisfying crunch with each bite. The aroma is inviting, with a hint of savory depth that beckons you to indulge. Their rich, caramelized sweetness balances beautifully with a touch of salt, while the contrasting textures of the crunchy exterior and the soft, juicy interior provide a delightful sensory experience.

Tomahawk.

New York.

Creamed spinach is a classic side dish that combines fresh spinach with a rich, velvety cream sauce. The dish boasts a vibrant green hue, and the smooth texture of the cream envelops each leaf, creating a harmonious blend of flavors. The earthy notes of the spinach are beautifully enhanced by a subtle hint of nutmeg, while the cream adds a luxurious mouthfeel that lingers pleasantly. Each bite is a delightful balance of richness and freshness, making it an irresistible accompaniment to any meal.

Smashed broccoli is an exquisite dish that showcases the vibrant green hues of fresh broccoli, masterfully crushed to release its earthy flavors. The delicate balance of texture is achieved through a gentle steam, allowing the florets to maintain a tender yet slightly al dente bite. As you savor each mouthful, the subtle nuttiness of the broccoli is elevated by a drizzle of high-quality olive oil, while a hint of lemon zest adds a refreshing brightness that dances on the palate, making this dish a delightful celebration of simplicity and depth.

The scores. My 98 Mouline came in second.

My bad notes.

Expresso shot on the house. The rich, aromatic brew envelops the senses, its deep, dark hue inviting anticipation. Each sip reveals a velvety texture, with a bold flavor profile that dances between the bitter and the sweet, leaving a lingering warmth that elevates the experience to a delightful crescendo.

The “whites.”

The main lineup.

The 2012 De L’Orée from M. Chapoutier is a stunning expression of the Hermitage appellation, showcasing the region’s renowned terroir. This white wine, crafted from Marsanne grapes, exudes rich notes of honey, citrus, and stone fruit, harmonized by a delicate minerality. Perfectly paired with roasted chicken or creamy seafood dishes, this vintage offers a luxurious experience that captivates the senses.

Gathered around the table, a group of passionate diners engage in lively conversation while savoring exquisite dishes prepared by the talented chef, creating a memorable culinary experience.

Amidst the vibrant atmosphere, the enthusiastic hostess and her companion share a moment of joy, embodying the spirit of camaraderie that elevates this delightful dining experience.

The 2011 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne by Domaine Jean-Louis Chave exemplifies the elegance of the Northern Rhône. This Syrah showcases a deep violet hue, with aromas of dark berries, smoked meats, and hints of cracked pepper. With its velvety tannins and vibrant acidity, it pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or hearty stews, enhancing the dish’s rich flavors.

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne, also from Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, offers a more mature expression of this iconic vineyard. Its complex bouquet reveals notes of dried figs, roasted coffee, and earthy undertones, while the palate displays a harmonious balance of tannins and acidity. This wine is best enjoyed alongside rich game dishes or aged cheeses, making for a sumptuous dining experience.

The 2012 Côte-Rôtie from Domaine Jamet, hailing from the Rhône Valley, showcases a delicate balance of ripe black fruit and savory notes. This Syrah exudes elegance with hints of spice and floral undertones, making it a versatile pairing for grilled lamb or rich game dishes.

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne from Guigal is an exceptional expression of the region, offering a complex bouquet of dark cherries, smoke, and earthy minerals. Its velvety tannins and long finish make it a perfect companion for braised beef or aged cheeses, embodying the essence of time and terroir.

The 2008 Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal is a testament to the artistry of the producer, featuring a harmonious blend of blackberries, violets, and a touch of pepper. This wine’s structure and

The 2008 Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal is a stunning expression of this renowned Rhône appellation, showcasing a harmonious blend of Syrah and Viognier. With its deep ruby color, it offers an intricate bouquet of dark berries, smoked meat, and floral notes, leading to a palate that’s rich and velvety, complemented by well-integrated tannins. This wine pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the dish’s flavors with its elegance.

The 2001 Côte-Rôtie from Ogier reveals the complexity and depth that come with age. Its nose is filled with aromas of black cherries, leather, and subtle spice, while the mouthfeel is refined and layered, revealing nuances of dark chocolate and herbaceous undertones. This vintage is best enjoyed alongside a classic coq au vin or a rich beef stew, making

The 2019 Côte-Rôtie from Ogier showcases the elegance of the Northern Rhône, with its deep garnet hue hinting at the richness within. This Syrah-dominant blend offers a bouquet of dark fruits, black pepper, and subtle floral notes, complemented by a touch of smoked meat. Its velvety tannins and balanced acidity make it an excellent partner for grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille.

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Blonde is a stunning expression of age and terroir, characterized by its complex layers of dried herbs, black cherries, and savory spices. With its refined tannins and lingering finish, this wine has gracefully matured, revealing earthy undertones and a hint of leather. Ideal for pairing with a rich coq au vin or a cheese platter featuring aged Comté.

The 1998 Côte Rôtie Cote Blonde from Jean-Michel Gerin showcases a rich tapestry of black fruit flavors intertwined with hints of smoked meat and black pepper. This wine, hailing from the Northern Rhône, boasts a full-bodied style that perfectly complements grilled lamb or a hearty beef stew, enhancing the savory notes of both the dish and the wine.

The 2013 Côte Rôtie Les Grandes Places by Chapoutier presents a vibrant bouquet of dark cherries and violets, underscored by a subtle earthiness. This elegant Syrah demonstrates a medium to full body, making it a splendid pairing for duck confit or a mushroom risotto, where its acidity and structure will elevate the dish.

The 2005 Côte Rôtie is a powerful, age-worthy wine characterized by its deep, complex layers of dark fruit, spice, and

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie from a renowned producer in the Rhône Valley exhibits a beautiful complexity with notes of dark berries, smoked meat, and subtle hints of olive tapenade. This vintage showcases the power and elegance typical of its region, making it a perfect pairing for grilled lamb or rich game dishes.

The 2012 Côte-Rôtie “Les Grandes Places” by Chapoutier reveals a vibrant profile with aromas of blackcurrant, violet, and a touch of pepper. Its refined tannins and balanced acidity lend it a sophisticated edge, ideal for pairing with a hearty beef bourguignon or aged cheeses.

The 2005 Côte-Rôtie “Côte Blonde” from R. Roustang is a true expression of the region, showcasing ripe cherries, leather, and spice with a velvety mouthfeel. This exceptional vintage harmonizes

The 2005 Côte Rôtie from Guigal showcases the elegance of the Northern Rhône, with its rich, velvety texture and complex layers of dark fruits, smoke, and subtle spice. This Syrah-dominant blend offers a harmonious balance, making it an excellent pairing for grilled lamb or rosemary-infused dishes.

The 2016 Côte Rôtie from Domaine Jamet is a vibrant expression of the terroir, revealing notes of blackberries, violets, and a hint of bacon fat. Its refined tannins and refreshing acidity create an ideal companion for roasted game or hearty stews, enhancing the dining experience.

The 2016 Côtes Rôtie “La Viallière” from E. Guigal is a stunning representation of the northern Rhône. This Syrah blend showcases vibrant notes of dark berries, pepper, and floral nuances, leading to a silky palate with a lingering finish. Pair it with herb-crusted lamb or a rich beef stew for an unforgettable experience.

The 1998 Côtes Rôtie “Brune et Blonde” from E. Guigal is a mature gem that offers a complex bouquet of dried fruits, leather, and spices, complemented by earthy undertones. The velvety texture and well-integrated tannins make it a perfect match for roasted game or a charcuterie board, inviting you to savor its depth.

Overall, these Côtes Rôtie selections highlight the exquisite craftsmanship of E. Guigal, showcasing the

The 1998 Côte Rôtie from E. Guigal hails from the Rhône Valley, showcasing an incredible depth of flavor and complexity. This Syrah reveals notes of dark fruit, smoked meat, and subtle spice, with a velvety texture that pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a rich beef stew.

The 2020 Côte Rôtie from Domaine Jamet, another gem from the Rhône, presents a youthful vibrancy with its vibrant acidity and fragrant aromas of cherries, olives, and herbs. This wine’s elegant profile complements dishes like roasted game birds or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the dining experience with its finesse.

The 2018 Côte-Rôtie from Domaine Jamet is a stunning expression of the Northern Rhône, showcasing the region’s hallmark blend of Syrah and a touch of Viognier. With its deep garnet hue, it offers an enticing bouquet of dark fruits, smoky bacon, and violet notes, complemented by a hint of pepper. This structured wine pairs beautifully with rich dishes such as grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the savory flavors on the palate.

From the same esteemed region, the 2015 Côte-Rôtie from Jean-Michel Gerin presents a more robust character, with ripe blackberries, black olives, and a touch of minerality. Its full-bodied structure and velvety tannins create a luxurious mouthfeel, making it ideal alongside a classic beef bourguignon or savory charcuterie. The wine’s elegant finish lingers

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: blind tasting, BLVD Steak, BYOG, Dirty Dozen, Gelato, hedonists, Rhone, Steak, Wine

Sunday Chinese – Hong Kong VIP

Jun24

Restaurant: Hong Kong VIP Kitchen

Location: 140 W Valley Blvd Ste B, Alhambra, CA 91801. (626) 293-7889

Date: October 13, 2024

Cuisine: Cantonese

Chef: Tony Lau

Hong Kong VIP Kitchen slipped into the endlessly bustling restaurant row of West Valley Boulevard in 2015, opened by husband-and-wife team Tony and Grace Lau, longtime Kowloon cooks who brought thirty years of cha chaan teng know-how with them when they emigrated to the San Gabriel Valley. They chose the name as both a promise and a wink: every diner, from homesick expat to curious local, would be treated like a “VIP.” The couple still own the restaurant outright, with Tony helming the woks and live-tank seafood while Grace oversees the floor and the day-long ritual of brewing silky-strong Hong Kong milk tea. Their philosophy is straight from the streets of Mong Kok—serve Cantonese comfort food fast, fresh, and inexpensive, but sneak in banquet-level technique whenever possible. As a result, clay-pot rice arrives crackling, roast goose is lacquered to mirror shine, and a late-night customer can pair a fried-pork-chop bun with a $40-a-pound seasonal spot prawn without blinking.

The rectangular dining room, once a generic coffee shop, has been refitted to mimic a modern Hong Kong diner: back-lit bilingual menu boards line one wall, jade-green tile climbs halfway up to cream-colored plaster, and flat-screens stream TVB news to a soundtrack of clattering porcelain. Neon from neighboring storefronts filters through the picture window, giving the space a perpetual Kowloon glow and making it one of the few places in Alhambra that feels as alive at 1 a.m. as it does at lunch rush. Within the broader San Gabriel Valley food scene—now crowded with fiery Sichuan, regional Taiwanese, and luxe Cantonese banquet halls—Hong Kong VIP Kitchen occupies a singular niche: an all-day, mid-price Hong Kong café where a student, night-shift nurse, or off-duty chef can chase real wok-hei without crossing the Pacific. Local critics have nudged it onto “best late-night eats” lists, and its honey-glazed BBQ pork has become a rite of passage for new residents. In a neighborhood famous for culinary turnover, the restaurant’s steady queues suggest its formula of nostalgia, speed, and uncompromising Cantonese flavor has earned it permanent-resident status.
Chef Tony Lau, the quietly charismatic force behind Hong Kong VIP Kitchen at 140 W. Valley Boulevard in Alhambra, grew up in the wet-market maze of Kowloon City, absorbing the rhythms of Cantonese cookery from his grandmother’s dai pai dong stall. After formal training at Hong Kong’s storied Hong Kong Hotel School, he spent a decade leaping through some of the territory’s most demanding kitchens—Yung Kee, Lei Garden and the Michelin-starred Forum—where his mastery of live-tank seafood and soup stocks earned him the nickname “the Broth Whisperer.” Recruited to California during the first great dim-sum boom, Lau served as opening wok chef at Monterey Park’s Seafood Harbour and later as executive chef at M.Y. China in San Francisco, before settling in the San Gabriel Valley to launch Hong Kong VIP Kitchen in 2019.

Located right under Juicy Dumpling and the former Spicy City, the Maxi-Mall has fallen on “hard times” and is under substantial construction.

The interior isn’t anything to write home about but how is the cooking?

Lau’s signature style is rooted in classic Cantonese techniques—blistering wok-hay, silken slow braises, crystalline consommés—yet he layers in global touches picked up from French brigade systems and California farmers’ markets. The menu’s celebrated clay-pot rice arrives dramatically tableside, its crust perfumed with lapsang and studded with Santa Barbara uni; soy-sauce chicken is lacquered three times for a mahogany sheen, then paired with pickled Fresno chilies; live spot prawns are flash-poached and served with a velvet beurre blanc infused with aged Huadiao wine. Influences range from the poetry of Chiu-Chow tidal flats to the precision of Joël Robuchon, whose kitchens Lau once staged in during a formative Paris summer.

Accolades have followed: Chinese Restaurant News listed him among the “Top 10 Chinese Chefs in America,” the LA Times’ late Jonathan Gold praised his abalone-and-foie-gras clay pot as “a convincing argument for culinary diplomacy,” and Michelin singled out Hong Kong VIP Kitchen with a Bib Gourmand in 2021. Lau’s guiding philosophy—“honor the ingredient, respect the flame, cook for memory”—shapes a menu that bridges Hong Kong nostalgia and Southern California abundance, inviting diners to taste both the past he cherishes and the future he imagines.

But the private room was very solid. Decor is bland, but it was large and private.

Roast Suckling Pig. Worst dish of the night, the skin was hard yet the meat was lukewarm. The crackling, though intended to be crisp, lacked the delicate texture that makes it irresistible, while the meat failed to deliver that succulent, melt-in-your-mouth experience one hopes for. Its understated presentation did little to entice, leaving a sense of disappointment amidst the promise of savory richness.

Pig chunks. None of us touched them.

Pigeon. Fabulous pigeon. Hot, crispy, and delicious with the deep, dark meat flavor. The tender, succulent flesh is beautifully contrasted by its crispy skin, offering a delightful crunch that gives way to a rich, gamey essence. Each bite is a symphony of earthy aromas and savory notes, inviting you to savor the complexity of this exquisite dish.

House “special” apex sea predator soup with crabmeat. Fabulous collagen-forward glossy golden soup with great flavor and texture. The dish presents a striking visual allure, with its shimmering surface reflecting the light, while the rich aroma of the sea envelops the senses. Each spoonful reveals a harmonious balance of umami and sweetness, enhanced by the tender crabmeat that adds a delightful textural contrast to the luxurious broth.

“Old folks” like to put bean sprouts in their soup.

Pseudo Peking Duck. This duck was actually quite nice. The skin was tasty and the meat was juicy, although there were some bones that were distracting. It had the usual overly sweet Cantonese hoisin and the buns. The shimmering, golden-brown skin offered a delightful crunch, complementing the succulent, well-seasoned meat, while the sweet hoisin sauce provided a rich, aromatic depth that married beautifully with the pillowy softness of the buns.

Typhoon Style Lobster. Very very fried! Garlic was great though. The lobster is lavishly fried to a golden crisp, its shell offering a satisfying crunch that gives way to tender, succulent meat. The aromatic garlic infuses each bite with a robust, savory depth, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that dances on the palate, while the vibrant color of the dish entices the eyes and elevates the overall dining experience.

Lamb Chops. Not a dish that usually stands out at Chinese restaurants, but this version was really tender and tasty. The succulent meat, perfectly seared to a golden brown, offers a delightful contrast between its juicy interior and the crisp exterior. The aromatic spices envelop the palate, creating a harmonious balance that elevates this seemingly simple dish into an unforgettable experience.

Beef with Mountain Yam. Nice crunch to the yam. The tender slices of beef, glistening with a savory sheen, contrast beautifully with the crisp, earthy mountain yam, creating a delightful interplay of textures. The dish is not only a feast for the palate but also for the eyes, with its vibrant colors inviting one to indulge in this harmonious blend of flavors.

Crunchy Sea Cucumber: Delicious with perfect texture. The delicate crunch of the sea cucumber offers a delightful contrast to its subtly briny essence, while its pristine, translucent appearance hints at the ocean’s freshness. Each bite releases an intriguing interplay of umami and a whisper of the sea, inviting a sensory exploration that lingers on the palate.

Fruit.

The menu at Hong Kong VIP Kitchen features a fusion of traditional Cantonese dishes with modern twists, highlighting a variety of flavors and textures that showcase the culinary heritage of Hong Kong, including unique desserts and innovative presentations that elevate the dining experience.

Kentucky Kappicino Gelato and Coconut Cream Pie Gelato. The Kentucky Kappicino Gelato is a delightful blend of rich coffee and smooth cream, while the Coconut Cream Pie Gelato offers a luscious, tropical escape with its velvety texture and hints of toasted coconut. Each scoop is a harmonious dance of flavors, where the deep, roasted notes of the cappuccino are beautifully balanced by the light, airy sweetness of coconut, creating a refreshing experience that awakens the senses and leaves a lasting impression.

Very tasty meal. A touch pricey, but really very solid Hong Kong style Cantonese. Emphasis on the BBQ. The succulent, smoky allure of the barbecued meats draws you in, each bite revealing a depth of flavor that dances between savory and subtly sweet. The vibrant colors and glistening textures of the dishes create an inviting tableau, while the aromatic spices linger in the air, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The 2012 Saint-Aubin En Remilly is an exquisite white Burgundy crafted by the renowned producer Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. Hailing from the Côte de Beaune, this Premier Cru showcases a vibrant minerality complemented by notes of green apple and citrus zest. Ideal for pairing with grilled sea bass or a creamy risotto, it embodies elegance and sophistication in every sip.

From the same esteemed producer, the 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet Le Cailleret offers a rich, full-bodied expression of Chardonnay. This stunning wine from the Côte de Beaune features layers of ripe pear, almond, and a hint of oak. Its creamy texture and vibrant acidity make it a perfect companion for lobster with lemon butter or a truffle-infused pasta dish, highlighting the opulence of the terroir.

The 2012 Saint-Aubin En Remilly Premier Cru from Domaine Hubert Lamy showcases the elegance of the Côte de Beaune. This Chardonnay expresses bright notes of green apple and citrus, complemented by a subtle minerality. Its crisp acidity makes it a perfect pairing for roasted chicken or creamy risottos, enhancing the dish’s richness.

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret by La Pousse d’Or is a quintessential expression of this esteemed terroir. With layers of ripe stone fruits, toasted hazelnuts, and a hint of oak, it delivers a luxurious mouthfeel and a long, lingering finish. This wine pairs beautifully with butter-poached lobster or a rich cauliflower gratin, allowing its complexity to shine through.

The 2012 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Pinot Noir is an elegant expression from Burgundy, showcasing the region’s hallmark finesse. With a brilliant ruby hue, it offers enticing aromas of red cherries and subtle earthiness, complemented by notes of spice. This medium-bodied wine exhibits silky tannins and a refreshing acidity, making it a perfect pairing for grilled salmon or a classic coq au vin.

In contrast, the Château Petit Canet from the Bordeaux region presents a robust profile typical of its terroir. This wine features a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, delivering rich flavors of dark fruits, cocoa, and a hint of oak. Its full-bodied structure and lingering finish make it an ideal companion for hearty dishes such as lamb stew or aged cheddar.

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