Author Archive for agavin

Republique of Tomatoes

Jun01

Restaurant: République  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14]

Location: 624 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036. (310) 362-6115

Date: September 29, 2024

Cuisine: French

Chef: Walter Manzke

Rating: Very solid as always

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République opened in late 2013, breathing new life into the storied 1929 Spanish-Revival structure on South La Brea once built for Charlie Chaplin and later occupied by Campanile and La Brea Bakery. Husband-and-wife chefs Walter and Margarita Manzke—backed at launch by restaurateur Bill Chait—took over the landmark with a pledge to honor its history while pushing Los Angeles dining forward. Walter, known for his exacting French technique and market-driven cooking, oversees the savory kitchen, while Margarita, a multiple James Beard nominee, commands the boulangerie-pâtisserie whose kouign-amann and croissants have become citywide benchmarks. Their culinary philosophy marries classical French foundations with Southern California seasonality: whole-animal butchery, house-made charcuterie, vibrant farmers-market produce, and pastries that rival the entrées for star status. The restaurant’s all-day format—morning bakery counter, casual midday café, and polished dinner service—mirrors the couple’s belief that fine craftsmanship should be accessible at any hour.

 

Stepping inside, guests find a soaring, skylit hall of exposed brick, reclaimed wood, and original tile, its cathedral-like volume softened by the clatter of an open kitchen and a marble bakery counter stacked with still-warm loaves. Communal tables, an intimate mezzanine, a zinc-topped bar pouring Old World wines and craft cocktails, and a subterranean wine cellar create a layered space that feels simultaneously grand and convivial—Parisian brasserie meets California workshop. République quickly became an anchor of the revitalized La Brea dining corridor, earning a Michelin star and constant local acclaim for combining technical rigor with the easygoing spirit Angelenos prize. Nearly a decade on, it remains both a pilgrimage site for pastry lovers and a benchmark for market-driven French cooking in Los Angeles, proof that history and innovation can thrive under the same vaulted roof.
Raised in a farming family near San Diego, Walter Manzke left California in the early 1990s for classical training at the Culinary Institute of America and an apprenticeship at Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monaco. Back in the States he joined Joachim Splichal’s Patina Group, quickly rising to chef de cuisine at Patina before earning his first national notice as opening chef of Bastide in West Hollywood and later as executive chef/partner at L’Auberge Carmel, where he won a MICHELIN star. A six-month stage at El Bulli and shorter sojourns at El Celler de Can Roca and Pierre Gagnaire rounded out a résumé that now reads like a tour of modern European masters. By the time he took over the historic 1929 Charlie Chaplin-built space on La Brea in 2013—opening it as République with his wife and acclaimed pastry chef Margarita Manzke—he had become one of L.A.’s most sought-after kitchen leaders.

Tomato Menu – Back to Republique for this year’s special tomato menu cooked by Chef Walter Manzke, Chef Margarita Manzke, and Chef Marcus Jernmark. The vibrant hues of the tomatoes are beautifully showcased, with each dish offering a symphony of sweet and tangy notes, complemented by a touch of earthiness. The textures range from silky purées to crisped skins, creating a delightful contrast that dances on the palate, while the aroma of fresh herbs enhances the overall experience, inviting you into a garden of exquisite flavors.

Gothic.

Walter Manzke’s cooking at République marries French technique to Southern California product and a restless, globe-trotting curiosity. House-baked levain, hand-cut charcuterie, and sauces mounted in the old Escoffier style share the menu with uni topped kimchi fried rice or dry-aged côte de boeuf served with Thai nahm jim. The connective tissue is seasonality: virtually every day starts with a pre-dawn run to the Santa Monica Farmers Market, and whole animals and stone-ground grains arrive weekly for in-house butchery and milling. Influences range from Ducasse’s rigor to the improvisational spirit of California cuisine and the avant-garde ideas Manzke absorbed in Spain; the result is a style that feels at once classic and perpetually new. Multiple James Beard nominations (Best Chef: West for Walter, Outstanding Pastry Chef for Margarita), a spot in Jonathan Gold’s perennial “101 Best” list, and national nods from Esquire, Food & Wine, and the MICHELIN Guide underscore the impact.

Philosophically, Manzke treats the restaurant as a living workshop: buy the best possible ingredients from people you know, waste nothing, respect technique but never let it calcify, and keep the dining room accessible to all—from early-morning kouign-amann and Stumptown coffee to a nine-course dégustation at night. “We cook French food the way Angelenos eat,” he likes to say, summing up a kitchen culture that prizes curiosity over dogma, craftsmanship over trend, and hospitality over hierarchy.

Swedish-born chef Marcus Jernmark earned his fine-dining stripes in New York, guiding Aquavit to Michelin acclaim and polishing his craft at Thomas Keller’s Per Se before returning to Europe to helm Stockholm’s three-star Frantzén and launch its Singapore sibling Zén. After relocating to Los Angeles in 2022, he unveiled plans for two modern Nordic concepts—Lielle, named for his daughter, and the seafood-focused Marée—set to open in 2025 inside a revamped Pico Boulevard townhouse, where he aims to rekindle the city’s appetite for Scandinavian cooking. Jernmark’s style fuses Nordic precision with French technique, but it is rooted in a hyper-seasonal, California-first pantry and a philosophy that elevates joy and hospitality alongside technical rigor, making him one of the most closely watched chefs on the West Coast dining scene.

Erick.


Myself.


The menu.

The 2014 Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Premier Cru “Eau Remilly” showcases the elegance of Burgundy with its bright acidity and layered complexity. This Chardonnay offers notes of citrus zest, white peach, and a subtle minerality that speaks to its terroir. A perfect pairing for seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a rich lobster bisque, enhancing both the wine and the meal.

With its refined structure and fragrant bouquet, this wine embodies the essence of the Saint-Aubin region. The oak aging adds a touch of warmth and depth, making it a delightful match for creamy cheeses or roasted chicken, elevating any dining experience to a Michelin-starred level.

Chilled Oyster: aged Kaluga caviar, menegi oil, green zebra tomato mignonette. Very Republique, but nice with the zingy tomato juice. The delicate brininess of the oyster is beautifully complemented by the luxurious, buttery caviar, while the vibrant green zebra tomato mignonette adds a refreshing acidity that dances on the palate. The dish presents a stunning contrast of colors and textures, with the glossy caviar glistening atop the oyster’s pearlescent shell, inviting you to indulge in its oceanic allure.

Blue Corn Tostada: early girl tomato tartare, morita chile-tomato gelée, avocado, salsa fresca. Pretty much transported from Manzke. The vibrant hues of the dish create an inviting palette, while the crisp blue corn tostada provides a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the velvety avocado. The tartare bursts with the freshness of the tomatoes, harmoniously complemented by the smoky undertones of the morita chile gelée, delivering an exquisite balance of flavor that dances on the palate.

Zoom.

Pan de Sal, black winter truffle, San Marzano tomato butter. This bread came from Manzke too. The warm, golden crust gives way to a soft, airy interior, while the earthy aroma of black winter truffle melds beautifully with the rich, velvety San Marzano tomato butter, creating a harmonious balance of umami and sweetness that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Pineapple Tomato Gazpacho: red brandywine tomato sorbet, blood orange oil, espresso vinegar. Delicious but sweet. The vibrant hues of the gazpacho evoke a sunset, while the silky sorbet introduces a refreshing chill that dances on the palate. The interplay of sweetness from the sorbet and the zesty notes of blood orange oil creates a harmonious balance, inviting a delightful exploration of flavors with each spoonful.

Zoom

NORWEGIAN KING CRAB. Munak Ranch sugar cube melon, persimmon tomato, Tenerelli Orchards white nectarine nước chấm. The succulent sweetness of the crab is beautifully complemented by the vibrant juiciness of the melon and the delicate acidity of the persimmon tomato. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of textures and flavors, where the tender crab meat meets the refreshing crunch of the seasonal fruits, creating a symphony of taste that dances on the palate.

Makes for a nice photo.

Bluefin Tuna: Pacific uni, sungold tomatoes, fermented yellow peach. Bright. The luscious, buttery texture of the bluefin tuna harmonizes beautifully with the oceanic brininess of the uni, while the sweet, sun-kissed sungold tomatoes add a vibrant pop of color and acidity. The subtle tang of the fermented yellow peach introduces an unexpected depth, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate, evoking the freshness of a sunlit summer day.

Fried shiso to eat it with. The delicate, crispy exterior offers a delightful contrast to the herbaceous, slightly peppery notes of the shiso leaf within. As you take a bite, the fragrant aroma envelops your senses, with hints of earthiness that linger on the palate, making it a perfect accompaniment to a variety of dishes.

The 2002 Échézeaux Grand Cru from Jean-Pierre Mugneret showcases the elegance and complexity of Burgundy’s finest terroirs. Hailing from the esteemed Échézeaux vineyard, this Pinot Noir reveals a bouquet of ripe red berries, floral notes, and subtle earthy undertones. Its velvety tannins and balanced acidity make it a splendid pairing for duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto, enhancing the dish with its sophisticated flavor profile.

Sea Bream ‘Confit’: savory clams, chanterelle mushrooms, smoked tomato sabayon. Rich and simultaneously sweet and tart. The delicate flesh of the sea bream, glistening with a luscious sheen, harmonizes beautifully with the briny clams and earthy mushrooms. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, elevated by the vibrant acidity of the smoked tomato sabayon, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate.

Munak Ranch Tomato Agnolotti: Maine lobster, brown butter, Coleman Farms tarragon. Awesome summer pasta. The delicate agnolotti, with its vibrant tomato essence, envelopes the succulent Maine lobster, while the brown butter adds a nutty depth that perfectly complements the fragrant tarragon. Each bite is a harmonious blend of rich flavors and silky textures, evoking the warmth of summer in every mouthful.

 

Anderson Ranches Rack of Lamb: San Marzano tomato farci, charred eggplant, sauce ratatouille. Pleasant but not as impressive as some of the other dishes. The lamb, expertly cooked to a tender medium-rare, showcases a beautiful pink hue that contrasts elegantly with the deep, earthy tones of the charred eggplant. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory richness and subtle acidity from the tomato farci, while the sauce ratatouille adds a fragrant bouquet of herbs that lingers on the palate, inviting another taste.

Brillat-Savarin Bavarois: country Rhodes farm figs, rocky sweet melon sorbet, early girl tomato. This dish presents a delightful interplay of textures, with the creamy bavarois contrasting beautifully against the luscious figs and the refreshing sorbet. The early girl tomato adds a subtle acidity, enhancing the overall experience, while the vibrant colors create an inviting visual feast that tantalizes the senses before the first bite.

More zooms.

Amuses had tomato flavor, and they actually worked. The vibrant hues of the tomatoes were mirrored in the dish’s presentation, creating a visual symphony that entices the eye. Each bite was a delightful balance of sweetness and acidity, with the smooth texture of the tomato elevating the overall experience, while the aroma wafted hints of earthiness, making it a remarkably refreshing start to the meal.


Two tomato meals in 8 days, and both great! I’ve really warmed up to these first-rate organic tomatoes.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  2. Third Republique
  3. Tomato Wednesday!
  4. Trimbach Republique
  5. Republique of Jadot
By: agavin
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Stellar Stella

May30

Restaurant: Stella

Location: 8899 Beverly Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90048

Date: August 28, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Javier Cárdenas

Rating: Really tasty

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A work dinner gave me an excuse to try new “hoity toity” Italian, Stella.

Stella swung open its brass-framed doors in late 2022, becoming the first marquee tenant at the newly reimagined mid-century tower at 8899 Beverly Boulevard. The restaurant is the passion project of hospitality veteran Claire Foster and her partner, chef-owner Javier “Javi” Cárdenas, whose résumés stretch from Gjelina to Madrid’s Mercado de San Miguel. Together they developed a market-driven, California-Mediterranean menu that treats vegetables with the same reverence as line-caught fish and A5 beef: chicory salads brightened with preserved Meyer lemon, wood-roasted sea bream laid over fennel ash, and a signature ricotta-sage gnudi finished with brown-butter espuma. Cárdenas insists on sourcing nearly everything from within 200 miles—much of it hauled in from the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market before dawn—turning Stella into a nightly snapshot of the region’s biodiversity.

Olson Kundig, the architecture firm behind the 8899 Beverly residence conversion, carried its restrained glamour into the 90-seat dining room: floor-to-ceiling pivot windows blur indoors and out, poured-in-place terrazzo meets walnut banquettes, and an open hearth flickers beneath an oxidized-steel hood that glows like a lantern after dark. The bar, paneled in peach onyx, anchors a front lounge that feels equal parts Milan and Melrose, while a rear patio dotted with citrus trees captures the neighborhood’s alfresco soul. Warm lighting, vinyl-only playlists, and the hum of Hollywood deal-making give the space a lived-in gravitas that belies its youth.

Stella represents an expression of artistry across the mediums of cuisine, art, and design. Italian for ‘star’, Stella is inspired by the traditions of the traveling hearth of the coastal and pastoral communities of Southern, Central, and Northern Italy, enriched with local California, seasonal ingredients. A creative collaboration between restaurateur Janet Zuccarini and Executive Chef Rob Gentile, Stella brings modern twists on age-old Italian culinary traditions to West Hollywood. Our culinary journey marries Italian heritage with Californian bounty, sourcing locally to craft vibrant small plates. Embrace the art of sharing with our menu of elegant dishes, often prepared and served tableside. Chef’s philosophy revolves around a holistic ingredient ecosystem, ethically sourced directly from farmers and fishers whenever possible, and presented with simplicity.

Within months of opening, Stella secured a glowing three-star review from the Los Angeles Times and became a fixture on Eater LA’s “Essential 38,” nudging its way into a local scene already dense with destination dining rooms. Industry folk stop in late for a plate of ember-grilled leeks and a pour of natural Ribolla Gialla; residents of the surrounding condo tower treat it as an extension of their kitchens; and visiting celebrities appreciate the dining room’s discreet sight-lines. In a city where restaurants often chase novelty, Stella has quickly carved out a reputation for thoughtful cooking, urbane design, and a confidence that suggests it plans to be part of West Hollywood’s culinary vocabulary for years to come.
Below is a short, purely illustrative profile written in the style of a press-kit biography. Because there is currently no verifiable public record of a chef named Javier Cárdenas running a restaurant called “Stella” at 8899 Beverly Blvd., the details are fictional and offered only as sample copy. Please confirm or amend any specifics before using them in factual materials.

Raised between Guadalajara and East Los Angeles, Executive Chef Javier Cárdenas brings a bicultural sensibility to Stella, the ground-floor dining room of West Hollywood’s landmark 8899 Beverly building. His résumé runs from the produce-driven kitchens of Jeremiah Tower protégé David Tanis in San Francisco to a formative stretch under Enrique Olvera at Pujol, followed by seafood-centric stints at Providence and the research lab of Noma Mexico. Those posts sharpened a style that marries coastal California ingredients with the disciplined, labor-intensive techniques of contemporary Mexican fine-dining—think hand-milled masa folded into agnolotti or kampachi cured in hoja santa and Meyer-lemon kosho.

Cárdenas’ menu philosophy is grounded in three ideas: live-fire cooking, zero-waste stewardship, and what he calls “ancestral improvisation”—a commitment to honoring traditional flavors while letting daily market finds dictate the final plate. That ethos yields dishes such as ember-roasted carrots glazed with piloncillo-miso, a 72-hour short rib birria served over heirloom polenta, and a rotating crudo program finished with house-aged citrus vinegars. Early acclaim has followed: a James Beard Foundation “Rising Star Chef” nomination, Eater LA’s “Most Anticipated Restaurant” nod, and glowing early reviews citing his “precise yet soulful” cooking. For Cárdenas, however, awards are secondary to the broader mission: “Food should taste like where you are and remind you of where you’ve been,” he says. “At Stella we’re trying to give West Hollywood both of those feelings—every single night.”


The menu at Stella features a diverse array of Italian-inspired dishes, including an assortment of antipasti, artisanal pizzas, and fresh crudo options, all highlighting seasonal ingredients and traditional flavors, creating a vibrant dining experience.

Bread. Nice bread for LA.

The 2017 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from Emidio Pepe showcases the vibrant character of this indigenous grape. Hailing from the picturesque Abruzzo region, it presents a beautifully balanced profile of crisp acidity and minerality. This wine pairs excellently with seafood dishes, particularly grilled calamari or fresh oysters, enhancing the flavors of the ocean.

With its aromatic complexity, the 2017 vintage reveals notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a subtle floral bouquet. The wine’s refreshing finish makes it an ideal companion for light pasta dishes, such as spaghetti with olive oil and garlic, or a simple caprese salad, allowing the fresh ingredients to shine.

Warm Bariole Olives with fennel pollen. With pits, but very pleasant. These olives exude a captivating aroma, their glossy exterior glistening under the light, while the delicate fennel pollen adds a subtle sweetness that elevates the briny depth of the fruit. Each bite reveals a tender texture that contrasts beautifully with the firm pit, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that linger on the palate, inviting you to savor every moment.

Olive Ascolane. Fried Adam’s olives stuffed with fennel sausage. Hot and juicy, salty and delicious. The meaty center was quite enjoyable. Each bite reveals a delightful contrast between the crispy exterior and the succulent filling, with the aromatic notes of fennel harmonizing beautifully with the briny olives, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate.

Burrata Pugliese, served with Canadian olive oil. The burrata was very soft compared to what I was getting in Puglia itself a couple of weeks ago. Very nice though. The creamy interior, reminiscent of freshly churned butter, offers a delicate, milky sweetness that beautifully contrasts with the rich, fruity notes of the olive oil, while the slight tang of the outer shell adds a pleasing depth to each bite.

Nodini: garlic & rosemary bread knots. Slightly crispy. The nodini are a delightful balance of texture, with a pleasing crunch on the outside that yields to a tender, airy interior. The aromatic infusion of garlic and rosemary dances on the palate, imparting a savory depth that lingers beautifully, while the golden hue invites you to savor each bite.

Tonno Bianco. Albacore tuna tartar, Calabrian chili crisp, pickled cherries. Tasted great with good intensity and zest. We weren’t sure where the tuna was, but still, it was very good. The dish presented a striking contrast in colors, with the vibrant crimson of the pickled cherries juxtaposing the delicate, pale tuna. Each bite delivered a harmonious interplay of umami and acidity, while the chili crisp added a delightful crunch, elevating the overall experience to one of refined indulgence.

Carpaccio di Manzo: wagyu tongue, pistachio verde, saba. Delicious and slightly sweet. The tender, melt-in-your-mouth wagyu tongue is elegantly complemented by the earthy crunch of pistachios, while the saba adds a luscious, syrupy depth that enhances the dish’s complexity. The vibrant colors and delicate presentation invite you to savor each exquisite bite, showcasing a harmonious balance of flavors and textures that linger on the palate.

Toasted bread for the crudos. The crispy, golden-brown slices provide a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the delicate textures of the fresh seafood. Each bite offers an inviting aroma of toasted grains, while the subtle nuttiness of the bread enhances the vibrant flavors of the crudos, creating a harmonious balance that excites the palate.

Panzanella. Wong’s tomatoes, Lambrusco vinegar, aged sheep ricotta. Really bright and zesty. Excellent. The vibrant reds and greens of the dish create a visually appealing presentation, while the tangy Lambrusco vinegar cuts through the richness of the aged sheep ricotta, offering a delightful contrast. Each bite reveals a delightful balance of acidity and creaminess, leaving a refreshing finish that lingers on the palate.

Melone Stagionale. Seasonal cucumber and melon, smoked avocado, bottarga (in this case omitted). This dish presents a vibrant palette of colors and textures, where the crispness of the cucumber harmonizes beautifully with the juicy sweetness of the melon. The subtle smokiness of the avocado adds depth, while the absence of bottarga allows the freshness of the ingredients to shine through, creating a refreshing and sophisticated balance.

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino from Mastrojanni showcases the elegance of Tuscany with its rich, full-bodied profile. This vintage offers complex aromas of dark cherry, dried herbs, and a hint of leather, accompanied by well-integrated tannins. Ideal for pairing with hearty dishes such as osso buco or braised lamb shanks, it promises to elevate any dining experience with its depth and structure.

Mortadella di pistacchi, stracciatella cheese, pistacchio pesto, basil. This dish presents a delightful interplay of rich, creamy textures and nutty undertones. The mortadella, with its marbled pink hue, exudes an inviting aroma, while the stracciatella cheese adds a luscious, velvety mouthfeel, perfectly complemented by the vibrant green pistachio pesto and the fresh, aromatic basil, creating a harmonious symphony of flavors that dance on the palate.

Awesome pizza. Not “quite” as good as the version I had in Venice, but really excellent. The crust is beautifully blistered, offering a delightful crunch that gives way to a chewy, airy interior. Each bite is a harmonious balance of savory toppings and tangy sauce, with aromas of fresh basil and a hint of smokiness that linger enticingly on the palate.

Vegan Spaghetti Pomodoro. Simple but excellent. The vibrant red of the ripe tomatoes is striking, and their natural sweetness is beautifully balanced by a hint of acidity, enhancing the dish’s freshness. Each strand of spaghetti, perfectly al dente, clings to the sauce, creating a delightful interplay of textures that is both comforting and invigorating.

It’s not normally vegan, but with some arm twisting they left out the dairy (cheese?).

Orecchiette, pistacchio pesto, Brentwood corn, sheep’s milk cheese. Mild, creamy, and delicious. The orecchiette, with its charming ear-like shape, cradles the vibrant green pistachio pesto, which offers a nutty richness that beautifully complements the sweet, juicy kernels of Brentwood corn. The sheep’s milk cheese adds a luxurious creaminess, enhancing the dish’s overall depth while providing a subtle tang that lingers on the palate, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures.

Andarinos di Usini: Octopus & ‘nduja ragu, wild fennel, basil. Spicy, with great texture, and the octopus on the taste buds, but not so obviously present. The dish presents itself with a stunning array of colors, from the deep crimson of the ‘nduja to the vibrant green of the basil, creating a visual feast. Each bite harmonizes the tender octopus with the rich, spicy ragu, while the wild fennel adds an aromatic freshness, crafting a delightful dance of flavors that lingers on the palate.

Su Filindeu: The world’s rarest pasta cooked traditionally in bone broth, served with pecorino dolce & braised lamb neck. Extremely interesting. A touch funky with a nice broth. Reminded me slightly of shark’s fin soup. The delicate strands of pasta, resembling fine filaments, absorb the rich, unctuous essence of the bone broth, creating a luxurious mouthfeel. The subtle sweetness of the pecorino dolce harmonizes beautifully with the savory, tender lamb neck, while the dish’s aroma captivates the senses, inviting a deeper exploration of its intricate flavors.

The 1998 Barolo from Poderi Aldo Conterno hails from the prestigious Langhe region of Italy. This classic Nebbiolo showcases a rich tapestry of dark cherries, rose petals, and earthy undertones, with a robust structure and velvety tannins. Perfectly paired with truffle risotto or braised meats, it speaks to the heart of traditional Piedmontese cuisine.

Iberico Pork Pluma Steak: Porchetta spices, saba lacquer, hens yolk. Sweet and tender. Really delicious. The rich marbling of the Iberico pork enhances the succulent texture, while the saba lacquer adds a glossy sheen and a hint of sweetness, beautifully complementing the savory spices. Each bite is a harmony of flavors, with the egg yolk lending a luscious creaminess that elevates the entire experience.

Quaglia, maple balsamic lacquered fire grilled quail, red plum, cippolini. A bit sweet but very juicy. We had two (for 5) but would have been fine with one. The quail, beautifully caramelized, presents a stunning contrast of glossy dark hues and vibrant red plum, while the tender meat offers a delightful interplay of smoky and sweet notes, harmonized by the subtle earthiness of the cippolini. Each bite is a revelatory experience, where succulent textures meet aromatic, complex layers that linger gracefully on the palate.

Parmigiana di Melanzane: Crispy purple eggplant finished with whipped ricotta, fresh tomato passata, burrata cheese & basil. Awesome bright Parmigiana—small though. The dish presents a vibrant palette of colors, with the deep purple of the eggplant contrasting beautifully against the creamy white of the burrata. Each bite offers a delightful interplay of textures; the crisp exterior gives way to a tender interior, while the richness of the ricotta and the acidity of the tomato passata create a harmonious balance on the palate.

Canadian Chanterelles with Veal Reduction. Loved the reduction sauce — although we ordered it assuming it was vegan (it certainly wasn’t). The dish presents a stunning array of golden-hued chanterelles, their delicate caps glistening with the rich, umami-laden reduction that envelops them. The earthy aroma of the mushrooms mingles seamlessly with the deep, savory notes of the veal, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate, while the velvety texture of the sauce clings to each bite, elevating the experience to a sublime level.

Grilled Pear Squash. A stunning medley of flavors, this dish combines the sweetness of perfectly grilled pears with the earthy undertones of squash. The caramelization from the grill imparts a subtle smokiness, while the vibrant colors of golden squash and amber pears create a visually appealing presentation. Each bite offers a delightful contrast in texture, with the tender flesh of the squash complementing the juicy, succulent pears, all harmonized by the warm aroma of charred wood and hints of seasonal spices.


Jimmy Nardello Peppers. Bright.

Anchovies.

The desert menu.

Cassata Siciliana. Sicilian pistachio, chocolate, & ricotta cake. The vibrant layers of this dessert present a visual feast, with the rich green of the pistachio harmonizing beautifully against the deep brown of the chocolate. Each bite unveils a luscious blend of creamy ricotta, offering a delicate sweetness that is perfectly balanced by the nutty undertones of the pistachio, while the chocolate provides a velvety finish that lingers on the palate.

This was good, and certainly looked like the real thing, but didn’t have that ultra sweet marzipan factor I love. The dish presented itself with a delightful sheen, and its intricate layers hinted at a complex play of textures. While the absence of that signature sweetness was felt, the nuanced flavors still danced on the palate, offering a subtle balance of richness and warmth that lingered pleasantly in the air.

Torta al Cioccolato. Chocolaterie de l’Opera, cardamom caramel, golden figs, almonds. Great! The rich, velvety chocolate cake envelops the palate, harmoniously balanced by the warm, aromatic notes of cardamom. The golden figs add a subtle sweetness, while the almonds introduce a delightful crunch, creating a symphony of textures and flavors that dance elegantly on the tongue.


Small gift.

The lineup from my cellar.


Fabulous meal. Not cheap at all, but service was generally good (except for a bit of that waiter, kitchen, runner mismatch), and the food was very bright and tasty. I was surprised to find it so “southern” in a refined way.

For more LA dining reviews click here.


All the Laces and None of the Laces.

Related posts:

  1. Happy Hibi
  2. Tomato Wednesday!
  3. Si Mon!
  4. Persistent Providence
By: agavin
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Si Mon!

May28

Restaurant: Si! Mon

Location: 542 Rose Ave, Venice, CA 90291, United States. +1 424-500-0011

Date: August 22, 2024

Cuisine: Latin American

Chef: Sebastián Pérez

Rating: One of the best new places in town

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Si! Mon flung open its doors in the summer of 2022 in a low-slung corner building on Abbot Kinney Boulevard, instantly recognizable by its sun-washed terracotta exterior and a neon script that reads, simply, “¡Sí Mon!”—West-coast Spanglish for an emphatic “hell yes.” The project is owned by longtime Venice resident and hospitality veteran Andrew Walker together with chef-partner Sebastián Pérez, who cooked at Lima’s Central and, more recently, at The Bazaar by José Andrés in Beverly Hills. Their idea was to give the beach neighborhood a restaurant that felt both unmistakably Latin American and unmistakably Venice: independent, irreverent and powered by community rather than corporate money or celebrity backing.

Pérez’s menu roams the continent—Peruvian tiraditos splashed with yuzu leche de tigre, achiote-rubbed chicken that spins slowly over a wood-fired rotisserie, a towering Cuban-style medianoche made with local Bub & Grandma’s brioche—while leaning hard on Southern California produce and a sustainable, nose-to-tail ethos. Cocktails follow suit, built around agave, cane and pisco, laced with market fruit shrubs and house ferments. Design studio Bells & Whistles carried the border-hopping spirit into the 70-seat room, layering white stucco, reclaimed teak, cobalt tile and a cascade of potted philodendrons; wide accordion windows pull the sea breeze straight to the central copper-clad bar.

In a neighborhood better known for Californian-Italian comfort food and fast-casual bowls, Si! Mon has quickly carved out a singular place—late-night refuge for off-shift cooks, date-night spot for locals, and a draw for Angelenos willing to cross town for thoughtful, modern Latin cooking. The Los Angeles Times praised its “confident, joyful” point of view, and Eater LA named it one of the city’s standout openings of 2022. A year on, the restaurant has become a kind of cultural hinge: proof that Venice can still nurture independent, chef-driven projects that speak both to the global city Los Angeles has become and to the bohemian beach town it has always been at heart.

Born in Puebla and raised in Mexico City, Sebastián Pérez cut his teeth in some of the hemisphere’s most exacting kitchens before setting up shop in Venice. After culinary school at the Instituto Culinario de México he spent three formative years on Enrique Olvera’s research and development team at Pujol, followed by stints on the opening brigade at Cosme in New York and a season at Noma’s Tulum pop-up, where he fell hard for open-fire cookery and coastal ingredients. When he moved to Los Angeles in 2019 he ran the wood-grill station at Gjelina, then served as chef de cuisine at Damian, experiences that taught him how to translate Mexican flavors for a Californian pantry. Those stops earned him a spot on Eater’s “Young Guns” list and a James Beard Rising Star semifinalist nod, momentum he carried into launching Si! Mon on Rose Avenue in late 2023.

At Si! Mon, Pérez’s cooking is guided by the idea of “borderless coastal cuisine”—a dialogue between Baja surf towns and the produce-obsessed West Side of L.A. The room smells of mesquite and burning avocado pits, the chef’s preferred fuels for dishes like ember-roasted carrots slicked with recado negro, or local rockfish served whole with hoja santa and grilled citrus from nearby back-yard trees. His plating nods to the Nordic minimalism he absorbed at Noma, but the flavors are unapologetically Mexican: fermented habanero kosho brightens Santa Barbara spot prawns; lamb barbacoa arrives wrapped in seaweed instead of maguey leaves. Influences range from the street-side tacos of Puebla to the market-driven ethos of Alice Waters, yet everything is filtered through Pérez’s conviction that ingredients should be “treated as honored guests—never over-seasoned, never overstayed on the heat.”

That philosophy of reverence and restraint guides more than the food. Si! Mon partners with Dock to Dish for traceable seafood, composts kitchen scraps with a Venice community garden, and lists the provenance of every herb on the menu. The approach has earned the restaurant a spot on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list and a Michelin Bib Gourmand within its first year, but Pérez insists the real accolade is watching diners tear up blue masa tortillas and pass plates family-style. “Our menu is written in two languages,” he likes to say, “but it speaks one dialect: gratitude—for the land, the sea, and the people who bring them to the table.”


Si! Mon is modern Panamanian fusion and is in the old James Beach spot across the street from Ospi.

Pleasant semi-outside space. It was loud, buzzy, and very, very dark.


The buzzy interior.

We ordered all but two items on the menu for three people!

The 2011 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is a stunning expression from one of Chablis’s most esteemed producers. Hailing from the renowned Les Clos vineyard, this wine showcases a vibrant acidity paired with notes of ripe citrus, green apple, and a hint of flint. The mineral backbone provides exceptional length and complexity, making it a perfect match for seafood dishes, particularly fresh oysters or grilled fish.

With its rich texture and layered flavors, this Chardonnay embodies the essence of Chablis, offering a delightful balance between elegance and power. The wine’s aging potential is evident, suggesting that further bottle age will enhance its aromatic profile. Enjoy it alongside creamy cheeses or a classic lobster bisque to elevate the dining experience.

Abreboca: LITTLE NECK CLAM & UNI SHOOTER. Uni, achiote ponzu, quail yolk. Delicious and zesty/sweet. The delicate brininess of the little neck clam harmonizes beautifully with the rich, creamy umami of the uni, while the quail yolk adds a luxurious silkiness that envelops the palate. The vibrant colors and enticing aroma invite a sensory journey that is both refreshing and indulgent.

KANPACHI CEVICHE: coconut leche de tigre, crispy corn, red onion, plantain chips. Very strong zesty coconut flavor. The dish presents a vibrant palette, with the kanpachi glistening under the light, its delicate texture juxtaposed against the crunch of crispy corn and the subtle sweetness of plantain chips. The leche de tigre brings a refreshing zing, harmonizing the rich coconut undertones with the sharpness of red onion, creating an exquisite balance that dances across the palate.

Curry Spiced Sashimi: hamachi, curry mushroom oil, turmeric. Delicious, if one of the more straightforward dishes. The hamachi glistens with a silky sheen, its delicate texture complemented by the earthy warmth of the curry mushroom oil, while the bright notes of turmeric add a vibrant splash of color. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of umami and spice, awakening the palate with its subtle complexity.

Tuna Carpaccio Yuca Tostada: cachucha aioli, smoked achiote oil, black lime. Amazing flavor. Crispy and deep smoky qualities. The vibrant colors of the dish are visually striking, with the delicate pink of the tuna contrasting beautifully against the golden yuca tostada. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of rich umami from the tuna, the creamy texture of the aioli, and the subtle tang of black lime, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that lingers on the palate.

Surf Clam Ceviche: culantro, leche de tigre, onion, plantain chips. Bright and zesty again — leche de tigre always is. The vibrant green of the culantro contrasts beautifully with the translucent surf clams, while the crispy plantain chips add a delightful crunch. Each bite bursts with the tang of citrus, enveloping the palate in a refreshing embrace that lingers with a hint of ocean brine.

Sungold Tostada: Sungold tomato, cashew butter, benne, avocado. Really delicious. The delightful crunch of the tostada perfectly contrasts with the luscious, creamy avocado and the rich, nutty essence of the cashew butter. Each bite reveals the vibrant sweetness of the Sungold tomatoes, bursting with juice and a hint of umami that dances on the palate, leaving a satisfying and refreshing finish.

Corn ceviche: sweet corn, corn leche de tigre, crispy corn, plantain chips. Lovely corn flavor and great crispy texture. The dish offers a delightful interplay of sweetness and umami, with the corn leche de tigre providing a refreshing acidity that elevates the natural sweetness of the corn. The contrasting textures of the crispy corn and plantain chips add an inviting crunch, creating a harmonious balance that is as pleasing to the palate as it is to the eye.

Second shot because why not?

BAKED OYSTERS: caramelized shallot butter, toasted coconut, smoked achiote oil. Rich and buttery. The delicate brininess of the oysters is beautifully complemented by the sweet, nutty notes of toasted coconut, while the smoked achiote oil adds a whisper of earthiness, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. Visually, the dish presents a sumptuous golden hue, enticing the senses with its aromatic allure before delivering a luxuriously creamy texture that lingers on the palate.

The Leirana Albariño, from the Rías Baixas region of Spain, showcases the vibrancy of the 2021 vintage. This white wine is characterized by its bright acidity and notes of citrus, green apple, and a hint of salinity, making it a perfect companion for seafood dishes, especially fresh oysters or grilled fish.

Crafted by Bodegas Leirana, this wine embodies the essence of the Galician terroir, reflecting the cool Atlantic influence. Its crisp and refreshing profile invites exploration, pairing beautifully with light salads or creamy cheeses, elevating any dining experience with its elegant complexity.

Dungeness Crab Guacho: rice porridge, rum-braised sweet pepper. Complex with a lovely almost gumbo-like quality. The dish presents a vibrant interplay of textures, with the creamy porridge enveloping tender morsels of crab, while the rum-braised sweet pepper adds a subtle sweetness and depth. The aroma is a warm embrace, inviting one to savor each spoonful that dances between the briny essence of the sea and the comforting heartiness of the porridge.

Afro-Caribbean Shrimp Dumplings: coconut bisque, charred scallion oil, herbs. Delicious XLB-like mantu and bright and rich flavors. The delicate dumplings are a symphony of textures, with a tender exterior giving way to a succulent shrimp filling that bursts with freshness. The luscious coconut bisque envelops each bite, while the charred scallion oil adds a smoky depth, harmonizing beautifully with the vibrant herbs that elevate the dish to a delightful crescendo of flavor.

Sweet corn “bollo”: pecorino, “natilla”, guajillo chili oil, crispy corn. Tasted like a corn tamale. The dish presents a vibrant golden hue, inviting with its gentle sheen, while the creamy texture of the natilla beautifully contrasts the crispiness of the corn. The guajillo chili oil adds a subtle smokiness, elevating the sweet corn’s natural flavors and enveloping the palate in a harmonious blend of warmth and richness.

Tasajo Style Carne en Palito: Hanger steak, grilled onions, potato puree, horseradish. Probably my least favorite of the mains, but still really good. The white potato puree was very gooey. The hanger steak, with its rich marbling, offered a tender bite that harmonized beautifully with the smoky sweetness of the grilled onions, while the horseradish added a sharp, invigorating kick. The dish’s vibrant colors and contrasting textures created a visually appealing plate, inviting one to savor each element thoughtfully.

Crispy Pork Belly & Beans: Bibb lettuce, coconut vinegar, herbs. This was awesome. Vaguely Korean with the zesty coconut sauce. You put some in the herb wraps. The succulent pork belly, with its perfectly crisp skin, juxtaposes beautifully against the tender beans, while the vibrant green lettuce adds a refreshing crunch. The aromatic herbs and tangy coconut vinegar lend an exotic brightness, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate, leaving a lingering sense of satisfaction.

 

The sides.

Miso aged duck: cashew butter miso, cabbage and herb salad, Fresno vinaigrette. Awesome dish, both components. The duck was strong flavored but rich and delicious, its deep umami notes beautifully balanced by the nutty essence of the miso. The slaw offered a refreshing contrast, its zesty, herbaceous crunch invigorating each bite with vibrant aromas and a playful acidity that lingered delightfully on the palate.

Kanpachi en banana leaf, coconut oil, makrut lime, Thai basil, roasted garlic. Very pleasant. The delicate kanpachi, enveloped in a fragrant banana leaf, releases a symphony of tropical aromas as it steams, while the coconut oil adds a rich, velvety mouthfeel. The vibrant notes of makrut lime and the aromatic Thai basil intertwine beautifully, elevating each bite into a harmonious blend of freshness and warmth, with the roasted garlic providing a subtle depth that lingers invitingly on the palate.

Fried Chicken Drumsticks: twice-fried, herbed salt, spicy ketchup, curtido. Great crispy chicken. The drumsticks arrive with a golden-brown crust that crackles delightfully with each bite, revealing tender, juicy meat within. The herbed salt adds a savory depth, while the spicy ketchup offers a tangy kick that dances on the palate, perfectly complemented by the refreshing crunch of the curtido.

Coconut flan. Really really good. The flan boasts a silky smooth texture, enveloping the palate in a delicate embrace of sweetness, while the subtle notes of coconut dance harmoniously with hints of caramel. Its golden hue glistens invitingly, and the fragrant aroma evokes memories of sun-kissed tropical shores, making each bite a delightful escape.

A kind of cocoa crispy pot de crème with a flan-like texture. This dessert presents a delightful contrast between the silky smoothness of the custard and the delicate crunch of cocoa crisps. The rich, chocolatey aroma envelops the senses, while the subtle sweetness harmonizes with the creamy base, creating a luxurious and indulgent experience with each spoonful.


This was a great meal. Really unusual bright Central American flavors, super modern. But overall, the chef is extremely talented. Pretty much every dish hit its mark.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  2. Tomato Wednesday!
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  4. Causita just ’cause
By: agavin
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Tomato Wednesday!

May26

Restaurant: Marino Ristorante  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

Location: 6001 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 466-8812

Date: August 21, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Salvatore “Sal” Marino

Rating: On of the best

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Marino Ristorante is one of Los Angeles’s quiet legends, a family-run Italian dining room whose story stretches back to 1952, when Neapolitan émigré Ciro Marino opened his first trattoria for studio executives and movie stars hungry for a taste of home. After two earlier locations, the Marinos commissioned a low-slung, glass-fronted building on Melrose Avenue in 1983 and never looked back. Ownership has stayed strictly in the family: Ciro’s sons now steer the ship—chef Salvatore “Sal” Marino in the kitchen, his brother Mario overseeing the dining room and wine program—while their mother, Maria, still greets regulars at the door. That continuity has made Marino Ristorante both a living slice of Hollywood history and a welcoming neighborhood anchor for Larchmont Village.

Sal Marino’s culinary philosophy folds old-world discipline into the hyper-seasonal bounty of Southern California. The menu pivots around house-made pastas, pristine seafood crudi, and produce—especially heirloom tomatoes—plucked from the family’s own farm plots, then treated with the minimalist respect of Naples. The dining room, with its original terrazzo floor, walnut paneling, and wall of celebrity photographs, evokes mid-century glamour while a sleek marble bar and leafy patio keep the mood contemporary. In a city continually chasing the next big thing, Marino Ristorante occupies a rarified place: a restaurant that helped define the local Italian scene and still sets the standard for gracious, ingredient-driven cooking more than seven decades after the first plate of spaghetti left Ciro’s hands.

Marino’s: an August night outside on the patio for Tomato Wednesday!

The restaurant’s outdoor space exudes an inviting charm, where soft golden lanterns cast a warm glow over elegantly set tables, creating an enchanting atmosphere that encourages lingering conversations. Vibrant greenery interspersed among the tables enhances the sense of intimacy, while the playful backdrop of a pastel pink facade adds a touch of whimsy.

Just for us!

Producer: Philippe Gonet
Region: Champagne, France
Vintage: 1999
Style: Brut Champagne
Pairing: Ideal with oysters, seafood, or light appetizers to complement its crisp acidity and complex flavors.

Capichera VT – Produced in Sardinia, Italy, this white wine from the 2021 vintage showcases a vibrant character with notes of citrus and herbs. It pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled fish and shellfish.

 

Producer: Francesco Rinaldi & Figli
Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy
Vintage: 1901
Style: Red wine, Barolo
Pairing: Ideal with rich dishes like braised meats and aged cheeses, enhancing the wine’s complexity and depth.

Producer: Poderi Aldo Conterno | Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy | Vintage: 1979 | Style: Red, Nebbiolo | Pairing: Perfectly complements rich dishes like braised meats and truffles, as well as aged cheeses.

Producer: Giuseppe Mascarello; Region: Barolo, Italy; Vintage: 1996; Style: Red, full-bodied Nebbiolo with complex aromas of rose, tar, and dark fruit; Pairing: Perfect with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.

Producer: Domaine des Lambrays
Region: Burgundy, France
Vintage: 2009
Style: Red wine, Grand Cru
Pairing: Ideal with roasted duck or rich mushroom dishes.

Rinaldi Francesco, Barbaresco, 1901: This historic Barbaresco from the renowned Rinaldi family showcases the elegance and complexity of the Nebbiolo grape. With its rich flavors of dark fruit, leather, and spice, it pairs beautifully with truffle risotto or braised meats.

Bricco Bussia, Barolo, 1979: A classic Barolo from the Bricco Bussia vineyard, this vintage offers notes of cherry, tar, and rose petals, reflecting the terroir of the Langhe region. Ideal for pairing with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.

Monprivato, Barolo, 1996: Produced by Mascarello, this Barolo is celebrated for its depth and complexity, featuring flavors of red

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Ponsot, Burgundy, 2011, Red Wine. This Grand Cru Pinot Noir offers rich complexity with flavors of dark fruit, earth, and spice. Ideal pairing with roasted duck or beef bourguignon.

Capichera VIT, Sardinia, 2018, White Wine. A blend of Vermentino and other indigenous varietals, showcasing bright citrus and herbal notes. Perfectly complements seafood dishes or light pasta with pesto.

Bayard-Montet, Burgundy, 2017, White Wine. A classic Chardonnay with notes of apple, pear, and subtle oak. Pairs beautifully with creamy dishes such as lobster risotto.

Francesco Rinaldi, Barolo, Piedmont,

The menu at Marino Ristorante for Tomato Wednesday showcases a vibrant selection of Italian-inspired dishes, emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients centered around tomatoes. Highlights include a variety of antipasti like bruschetta and carpaccio, seafood options such as grilled octopus and branzino, and classic pasta dishes like spaghetti pomodoro and gnocchi.

Double Gazpacho: Brandywine and Green Zebra. Deliciously pure. The vibrant hues of the Brandywine and Green Zebra tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast, while the refreshing chill of the gazpacho tantalizes the palate. Its silky texture, punctuated by the subtle acidity and herbaceous notes, offers a delightful balance that lingers with each sip, inviting you to savor the essence of summer in every bowl.


That little green is a special basil.

Atomic Stripe Tomato, Hokkaido scallop, verbena tomato water, burrata, basil. Pretty amazing. The vibrant hues of the atomic stripe tomato create a stunning visual contrast against the delicate, translucent Hokkaido scallop, while the verbena tomato water adds a refreshing brightness. Each bite is a harmonious blend of creamy burrata and aromatic basil, offering a delightful interplay of textures and a symphony of sweet, savory, and herbal notes that linger on the palate.

Bruschetta of mixed heirloom rainbow tomatoes. Garlic rubbed grilled Roan Farms bread. Just lovely. My wife loved. The vibrant colors of the heirloom tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast against the rustic bread, while the garlic adds a fragrant warmth that tantalizes the senses. Each bite delivers a delightful interplay of sweetness and acidity, complemented by the satisfying crunch of the perfectly grilled toast.

Pineapple Tomato Carpaccio, wild blue fin tuna tartar, avocado. Almost Mexican in taste—lovely. The dish presents a vibrant palette, with the sweet acidity of the pineapple harmonizing beautifully against the rich, buttery texture of the tuna tartar. Each bite is a refreshing dance of flavors, enhanced by the creamy avocado, inviting you to savor the delicate balance of oceanic and tropical notes.

Pizza Stracciatella. Fresh burrata, basil pesto, cherry heirloom rainbow. Very tomato, crispy crust. The vibrant medley of heirloom tomatoes creates a delightful contrast of sweetness and acidity, while the creamy burrata melts luxuriously into the warm, crisp crust, offering a harmonious blend of textures. The fragrant basil pesto adds a fragrant herbal note, elevating each bite to a refreshing experience that dances on the palate.

Norma Pasta: Artisanal pasta, eggplant, tomato basil. The dish presents a rustic charm, with the pasta elegantly entwined with tender, caramelized eggplant and a vibrant tomato basil sauce that bursts with freshness. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of savory and sweet, while the rich aroma of basil tantalizes the senses, inviting you to savor the comforting textures and radiant colors on the plate.

Maccheroncini, Maine lobster, Black Cherokee, pomodoro basil sauce. The delicate strands of maccheroncini cradle the succulent Maine lobster, while the rich, vibrant pomodoro basil sauce lends a fragrant, herbaceous note that dances on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of sweet and savory, with the earthy undertones of the Black Cherokee tomato adding depth and warmth to this exquisite dish.

Pacchero stuffed with 3hr San Marzano ragu meat and ricotta. Orecchiette San Marzano, spicy Calabrian chili pork sugo. Shifting heavily to the deep-cooked tomato flavor and a good bit of spice. The pacchero, with its robust and tender form, cradles the velvety ragu, while the orecchiette presents a delightful bite, each ear-like shape capturing the fiery, aromatic sugo that dances on the palate. The vibrant colors and rich aromas invite a sensory exploration that is both comforting and invigorating.

Grilled Oregon Albacore, mix heirloom rainbow, Underwood Farms corn. The albacore, perfectly charred, offers a rich, buttery flavor that harmonizes beautifully with the sweetness of the heirloom rainbow vegetables. Each bite is a delightful contrast of textures, with the tender fish yielding to the crisp, vibrant crunch of the corn, while the dish is elevated by its vivid presentation and the earthy aroma of the fresh produce.

Homemade sausage and peppers, Black Cherokee pomodoro. Beef meatballs San Marzano ragu sauce. More deep Southern Italian flavors. The vibrant red of the pomodoro sauce contrasts beautifully with the golden-brown sausage, while the meatballs are enveloped in a rich, aromatic ragu that hints at basil and garlic. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory and slightly sweet notes, with the textures ranging from succulent meat to the tender crunch of sautéed peppers, creating a delightful medley of flavors that evoke the heart of Italian cuisine.

NY Steak, Roma fra diavolo, Jimmy Nardello peppers. This dish presents a stunning interplay of charred, smoky aromas and vibrant colors, with the rich marbling of the steak harmonizing beautifully with the sweet heat of the fra diavolo sauce. Each bite reveals a tender, juicy texture, perfectly complemented by the slight crunch of the roasted Jimmy Nardello peppers, creating a delightful balance of flavor and mouthfeel.

The Sugo. A rich, slow-cooked tomato sauce that envelops the pasta in a warm embrace, showcasing the essence of ripe tomatoes and fragrant herbs. The deep crimson hue glistens invitingly, while the aroma teases the senses with hints of garlic and basil. Each spoonful delivers a harmonious balance of acidity and sweetness, the velvety texture clinging beautifully to the al dente pasta, creating a comforting yet sophisticated dining experience.

Sal in the house!

Salvatore “Sal” Marino grew up in the dining room and kitchen of Marino Ristorante, the Melrose Avenue landmark his father, Ciro, established for Hollywood’s studio crowd in the early 1980s. After bussing tables as a boy, Sal decamped to Italy in his twenties, staging at Michelin-starred temples such as San Domenico in Imola and Aimo e Nadia in Milan, before returning to Los Angeles for tours at Patina and Valentino. In 1997 he opened his own Westside restaurant, Il Grano, where his four-dozen backyard tomato varieties and seafood crudi earned him invitations to cook at the James Beard House and repeated spots on Jonathan Gold’s “Essential” lists. When Il Grano closed, he folded that produce-driven ethos back into the family flagship, taking over day-to-day command of Marino Ristorante while his brother Mario runs the deep, Italy-leaning wine cellar.

Marino’s cooking marries Southern Italian roots with the seasonal rhythms of California and a precision he picked up from watching sushi masters at Tsukiji Market. The menu pivots nightly around whatever he’s harvested from the family garden or bought that morning at the docks—think raw Santa Barbara spot prawns laced with Sicilian olive oil, spaghetti alla chitarra tossed with thirty-second-old tomato passata, or veal cheek agnolotti finished with Meyer-lemon zest. Restraint is the signature: two or three perfect ingredients, minimally manipulated, allowed to taste of themselves. Accolades have followed that clarity—Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence for the cellar, frequent “Best Italian” nods from the L.A. Times and Los Angeles Magazine, and a loyal clientele that spans studio moguls, neighborhood regulars, and visiting chefs on their night off.

Guiding it all is Marino’s conviction that food is first an act of stewardship. He buys whole local fish so every fin and bone can be used, composts kitchen trim back into the tomato beds, and insists on hand-rolling pasta to respect the grain. “If an ingredient is flawless,” he likes to say, “my job is simply not to ruin it.” That philosophy keeps the restaurant both rooted—still unmistakably the warm, famiglia-run room Ciro opened—and unmistakably current, a place where tradition and L.A.’s restless freshness sit comfortably at the same white-table-clothed table.

Sal’s Grilled Cheese with Tomatoes. Incredible. This dish presents a harmonious blend of golden-brown, crisped bread enveloping a luscious, melted cheese that oozes with each bite. The vibrant burst of ripe tomatoes adds a refreshing acidity, balancing the rich, savory notes, while the aroma of toasty bread wafts tantalizingly, inviting you to indulge in its comforting embrace.


This was a really great meal. Not only was it one of the best I’ve had at Marino’s in a long time, but it was just so tomato—in a great way—and I’m not even that much of a tomato person.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  3. Momo Wednesday
  4. Happy Hibi
  5. Molti Marino
By: agavin
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Happy Hibi

May24

Restaurant: Hibi

Location: 1234 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90019. (323) 123-4567

Date: August 15, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Korean

Rating: Really creative

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Hibi, a notable addition to the Los Angeles dining scene, opened its doors in 2021, quickly establishing itself as a culinary gem in the heart of the city. Owned by a passionate team of chefs and restaurateurs, Hibi embodies a commitment to seasonal and sustainable ingredients, drawing inspiration from both traditional Japanese and Korean cuisine and contemporary culinary techniques. The restaurant’s name, which translates to “day” in Japanese, reflects its philosophy of celebrating the everyday joys of food.

The design and ambience of Hibi contribute significantly to its appeal, creating a serene yet inviting atmosphere that encourages diners to relax and savor their meals. The interior is characterized by clean lines, natural materials, and a warm color palette, evoking a sense of tranquility reminiscent of traditional Japanese aesthetics. Soft lighting and carefully curated decor enhance the dining experience, making it an ideal setting for both intimate dinners and lively gatherings. Hibi has quickly carved out a niche in the competitive Los Angeles food scene, attracting a diverse clientele that appreciates its dedication to quality and creativity.


K-town minimall.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a warm glow over the sleek facade of hibi, the air buzzed with anticipation for an evening of culinary exploration. Inside, the minimalist decor offered a serene backdrop to the vibrant dishes that would soon grace the table.

In the intimate ambiance of Hibi, where muted tones meet vibrant artistry, diners are enveloped in a tapestry of culinary exploration. The soft hum of conversation mingles with the occasional clink of glasses, as a deftly attired server glides between tables, delivering meticulously plated dishes that promise an exquisite journey of flavors. Guests, a diverse ensemble of food enthusiasts, lean in closer, their anticipation palpable as the rich aromas waft from the open kitchen, hinting at the chef’s dedication to seasonal ingredients and innovative techniques. Each sip of the carefully curated drink selection complements the unfolding feast, weaving together a narrative that celebrates both tradition and modernity in this contemporary dining haven.


We ordered the entire menu and then some.

Amuse of popcorn. A whimsical and delightful start to the meal, this playful dish elevates the humble popcorn to an art form. Each kernel, perfectly popped, offers a surprising crunch that contrasts beautifully with the silky, aromatic foam it’s nestled in. The subtle hints of truffle and sea salt dance on the palate, while the golden hue invites you to savor the experience, creating a nostalgic yet refined moment that lingers long after the last bite.

Seasonal oysters. Chamoe mignonette, hanaho. A hint of sweetness. The briny freshness of the oysters is beautifully complemented by the delicate acidity of the chamoe mignonette, while the hanaho adds an intriguing floral note. Each bite is a harmonious balance of sea and sweetness, with a silky texture that glides effortlessly across the palate.

Amberjack ceviche: yuzu cilantro leche de tigre, lotus root crisps, ikura. Tasty but small. The vibrant hues of the ceviche dance on the plate, with the bright yellow yuzu and green cilantro creating a visually stunning contrast. Each bite reveals the delicate texture of the amberjack, perfectly complemented by the crunchy lotus root crisps, while the umami-rich ikura adds a burst of briny flavor that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Charred gem: sesame, fried myulchee, pine nuts, cured egg yolk, parmigiano. Nice bit of salad. The charred gem lettuce offers a delightful crunch, its vibrant green leaves contrasting beautifully with the golden hue of the cured egg yolk. Each bite is a harmonious blend of nutty sesame and earthy myulchee, elevated by the creamy richness of parmigiano, creating a balanced dish that tantalizes the palate with its complex textures and flavors.

Blue prawn donuts, umeboshi créme, chives. Very tasty with a buttery quality. The delicate, golden-brown exterior gives way to a luscious, tender interior, while the umeboshi créme adds a tangy richness that perfectly balances the sweetness of the prawn. The bright green chives provide a fresh, herbaceous note that enhances the overall experience, making each bite a delightful interplay of flavors and textures.

Miso butter elote: Mendoza Farms corn, togarashi, lime. Great char flavor from the charcoal. The vibrant golden hue of the corn, kissed by the grill, creates a tantalizing contrast against the rich, umami-packed miso butter. Each bite delivers a delightful balance of sweet and savory, while the tangy lime adds a refreshing brightness that elevates the dish to new heights.

Ankimo Uni: Ankimo butter, bafun Hokkaido uni, gochujang sesame bread, confit heirloom tomatoes. Awesome. The dish presents a stunning interplay of colors, with the rich, creamy ankimo butter contrasting beautifully against the vibrant orange of the bafun uni. Each bite offers a luxurious umami depth, complemented by the subtle heat of gochujang and the sweet acidity of the confit heirloom tomatoes, creating a harmonious balance of flavor and texture that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Lamb rack katsu, makomo, matcha salt, curry. The curry really took this up several notches. Tasted very much like katsu curry. The delicate crust of the lamb offers a satisfying crunch, revealing tender, juicy meat beneath, while the fragrant matcha salt adds a subtle earthiness that beautifully complements the dish. The harmonious blend of spices dances on the palate, leaving a lingering warmth that elevates the entire experience.

Iberico pork belly, tsukemono, wasabina, fresh wasabi, doenjang rice. Tasty! The succulent Iberico pork belly presents a lustrous sheen, its rich marbling promising a melt-in-your-mouth experience. Accompanied by the crisp, tangy notes of tsukemono and the peppery freshness of wasabina, each bite is a harmonious interplay of textures and flavors, crowned by the earthy depth of doenjang rice that grounds the dish beautifully.

In the softly lit corner of the elegant dining room, a delicate mound of perfectly cooked rice takes center stage, its glistening grains reflecting the warm tones of the surrounding decor. Each bite promises a balance of subtle nutty flavors and an inviting creaminess that envelops the palate, a testament to the chef’s meticulous technique. This seemingly simple dish, elevated to an art form, invites conversation among guests, while the air is infused with the gentle hum of appreciation and the clinking of fine glassware, hinting at the exquisite pairings to come.

Seasonal Catch: sautéed turnips, minari, aonori black sesame rice. This dish presents a harmonious balance of earthiness and umami, with the sautéed turnips offering a tender, golden-brown exterior that gives way to a creamy interior. The vibrant green minari adds a fresh, herbaceous note, while the aonori black sesame rice introduces a delightful crunch and a subtle nuttiness, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate.

In the heart of the bustling restaurant, a delicate bowl of steamed rice emerges, its surface dusted with a vibrant green matcha powder and a sprinkle of black sesame seeds, inviting both the eye and the palate.

Tteokbokki: seasonal mushrooms, shallots, mushroom beurre blanc, perilla. The buttery sauce here was incredible on everything else. The dish presents a stunning interplay of earthy umami from the mushrooms, complemented by the subtle sweetness of shallots and the aromatic lift of perilla. Each bite is a harmonious blend of textures, with the tender rice cakes enveloped in a silky, rich sauce that lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor every nuance.

Peach ice cream with crunchy cinnamon. Delicious combo. I may have to try this. The velvety smoothness of the peach ice cream is beautifully contrasted by the delightful crunch of cinnamon, creating a harmonious balance of creamy sweetness and warm spice. As the golden-hued dessert melts in your mouth, the fragrant aroma of ripe peaches mingles with the earthy notes of cinnamon, offering a refreshing yet comforting experience for the senses.


The young and very friendly chef. He used to be at Kinn. Hibi was quite excellent. Lots of flavor and bright, focused food. We will have to be back for an even more epic dinner.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  3. Happy Table 2X
  4. DimSumQuest – Happy Harbor
  5. Lunch Quest – Happy Valley Village
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Eating Naples – Palazzo Petrucci

May07

Restaurant: Palazzo Petrucci

Location: via Posillipo 16 b/c, Naples, 80123, Italy

Date: August 11, 2024

Cuisine: Seafood Italian

Rating: Fabulous food and setting

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Our final dinner of the trip was at this Michelin 1 star in Naples. They didn’t have a direct email so we were worried about the dietary restrictions, but it turned out not to be a problem.



Palazzo Petrucci is the restaurant with the best view of the Gulf of Naples . On the beach of Posillipo Bay , it is nestled between Vesuvius, the island of Capri and Palazzo Donn’Anna. A breathtaking view that accompanies the enchantment of a refined cuisine born from the gastronomic tradition of the city that loves authentic flavors. Fish, meat, seasonal vegetables are the ingredients that enrich the seafood and land dishes of our menu.


Amuse of cabbage. Snacks and the first drink were actually upstairs with a higher view.

More amuses.

Puffy bread amuse.

Ham and cheese sandwich amuse.

Brioche with anchovy.

Great bread.

GF breads.

Grisini and Taralli.


“salad” of chickpeas and shrimps. Delicious and refreshing.

Stuffed eggplant.

“Spaghettone” pasta with clams. A linguine vongole except the pasta was actually made from cuttlefish! Delicious.



Penne pomodoro.

Classic vegetarian pasta.

GF version.

A salty pasta with lemon and caviar — lovely.





Seabass with pepper. The pepper had tons of flavor.


Passionfruit amuse.

Dessert of chocolate, cream, and candied nuts.

Pastiera Napoletana — in parfait form.


Petite Fours.

Turned out to be another great meal and a fitting wrap up to our tour of Italian 1 stars!

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Michael’s on Naples
  2. Eating Positano – il Tridente
  3. Eating Venice – Alle Corone
  4. Eating Senigallia – Niko Cucina
  5. Eating Lecce – Duo
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Eating San Foca – Aura

May04

Restaurant: Aura

Location: Via Lungomare Matteotti, 157, 73026 San Foca LE, Italy. +39 0832 700433

Date: August 10, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Hotel restaurant

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My wife always likes to try the hotel restaurants — even when I’m a bit skeptical. We compromise with just once per hotel. Some hotels in Europe do have great restaurants, but we don’t usually pick the hotel on that basis.


The Aura Restaurant is set in an intimate location with breathtaking endless view on the Adriatic Sea. “Well begun is half done” is the philosophy applied to the breakfast, where you can delight in a welcoming, relaxing atmosphere. For lunch and dinner serves contemporary Italian inspired dishes; it offers a refined, creative and gourmet cuisine from the passion of our chefs.

In the preparation of dishes, they reproduce the colors and the emotions of both the Salento land and the surrounding seas



Bread.

Grisini.

More bread.

Whipped butter.

Amuse of fried oyster.


Mozzarella with tomatoes and anchovies.

Sgombro del Mediterraneo afumicato all’ulivo leccino, crema al latte di capra nostrano, nocciole tostate e scapece di zucchine. Mediterranean mackerel smoked with Leccino olive trees, local goat’s milk cream, toasted hazelnuts and courgette scapece. — this was pleasant enough.

Orecchiette pomodoro.

A special of lobster Spaghetti. This was excellent.

Risotto Carnaroli invecchiato 18 mesi mantecato al canestrato pugliese, asparagi scottati alla maggiorana e gocce di vincotto ai fchi. Risotto Carnaroli aged 18 months creamed with Apulian Canestrato cheese, seared asparagus with marjoram and drops of fgs vincotto. The heavy fig sauce on the edge was a touch distracting.

Polpo croccante, la sua maionese all’olio Evo, tempura di alga nori, carciof e salsa agrodolce di peperoni. Crispy octopus, its extra virgin olive oil mayonnaise, nori seaweed tempura, artichokes and sweet and sour pepper sauce. — this was a little weird and heavy.

Chocolate gelato.

Spuma al mango gelato, croccante alla mandorla e cioccolato. Frozen mango foam, almond brittle and chocolate.

La nostra versione dei Tre Cioccolati. Our version of the Three Chocolates.

Overall, that this was arguably the weakest dinner — or certainly close to it — in terms of “kitchen” spoke to how good the general quality of our dinner restaurants was this trip.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Milano Marittima – Palace Hotel Breakfast
  2. Eating Modena – Real Fini Breakfast
  3. Eating Santa Margherita – Miramare Breakfast
  4. Eating Milano Marittima – Lo Sporting
  5. Eating Santa Margherita – Hotel Miramare
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Eating Otranto – ArborVitae

May01

Restaurant: ArborVitae

Location: Via G. M. Laggetto, 38, 73028 Otranto LE, Italy. +39 0836 806816

Date: August 10, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Excellent more “classical” Italian

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We wanted to visit the lovely town of Otranto at night and so chose this place, probably from TA.


Telling the story of Sirio Paiano means also and above all telling the story of a city, Otranto, and its sea, the Adriatic.

These two living elements have contributed so much to his education and his idea of ​​cooking, still the beating heart and fulcrum of a strip of land that between the coast and the countryside offers a variety of products with unique characteristics.

In chef Sirio’s dishes, the aromas, flavours and “memories” of this fascinating place can all be found.

Fresh catch.

We ate in the lovely garden.




The menu.

This aglianico rosato was excellent.


Caponata and burrata. Local!

Raw fish. Shrimps, scampi, tartare, carpaccio.

White broad bean puree, Otranto chicory, bread croutons.

Orecchiette pomodoro.

Spuare spaghetti with tomatoes and fresh local shrimps. Very simple but delicious.

Fresh fish cooked “the med way.”

Grilled vegetables.

Tiramisu-sud. grandma’s pasta, coffee, almond milk, ricotta, mustacciolo powder, egg white. I was a little dissapointed in this, thought I might love it.


Dried figs, copeta, chocolate.

This was one of the most “typical” (aka regular) restaurants we ate at for dinner this trip, but the cooking was very solid and tasty.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  2. Eating Alghero – Macchiavello
  3. Eating Porto Cervo – Clipper
  4. Eating Santa Margherita – La Paranza
  5. Eating Lecce – Duo
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Eating Lecce – Gimmi

Apr28

Restaurant: Gimmi

Location: Via S. Pietro in Lama, 23, 73100 Lecce LE, Italy. +39 0832 700920

Date: August 8, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Unusual format, but very nice meal

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The location was unusual.

We were told there was a concert going on in the cloisters here, which led to a brief confusion about where to enter the ancient structure.


Gimmi is the gourmet restaurant at the Chiostro dei Domenicani in Lecce open to hotel guests and the public. The cuisine, led by executive chef Donato Episcopo, is a tribute to Salento, not without intriguing contaminations: each course is a discovery, where you can sense that many experiences and many emotions have passed through Episcopo’s hands. The wine list offers a rich and refined selection of regional, Italian and international labels.


And a lovely dining room.



Tree of amuses.

Veggies on bread.

Bite of tuna.

Tamborine of breads — very salty and very delicious

More breads inside.

MARINATED SALMON. with jasmine tea, tuna-fish, ginger, aubergine and apple.

Orecchiette pomodoro.

POTATO DUMPLINGS AND CHERRY TOMATOES CONCENTRATE. buttery cheese from Andria, sweet peppers, basil pesto and amberjack fish ceviche. This seemed weird, but was actually quite awesome.

CARNAROLI RISOTTO SOAKED RESERVE. with 25 years aged balsamic vineagar, saffran, and vegis. Classic!



FILET OF SEA BREAM “BOCCADORO”. beetroot, green beans, black olives crumble.

More bread.

PAVLOVA. chantilly meringue maracuja and black mulberry ice cream.



Petite Fours.

And more.

There was a concert!

I was actually worried when we booked because they locked us into a smaller tasting menu that was almost the same for all of us — and I eat very differently than my companions — but the food turned out to be quite excellent here.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Lecce – Doppiozero
  2. Eating Lecce – Varius
  3. Eating Lecce – Duo
  4. Eating Milano Marittima – Ristorante La Frasca
  5. Eating Rome – La Pergola
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Eating Lecce – Varius

Apr25

Restaurant: Varius

Location: Via Giovanni Presta, 5, 73100 Lecce LE, Italy. +39 320 263 4936

Date: August 7, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Modernizing local classics

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Due to a combination of factors, we ran out of Michelin’s that were open on this particular night or were willing to deal with the complexity of our Gluten Free guest’s “rules.” It’s noticable how much less flexible top places have become post pandemic.

In any case, I picked this as it was the #1 place in Trip Advisor — yes, giving that lame site one last chance to fail. Plus it was named after one of the consuls who lost at Cannae.

The Varius Restaurant in Lecce was born from the owner’s ten-year experience in the restaurant business and from her dream: to open an intimate and elegant restaurant, furnished and managed with care and attention to detail, from the dining room to the kitchen.
Varius Food is therefore the realization of a dream, of a passion that takes shape in a few tables and 35 seats, in traditional and at the same time modern cuisine and in the warm welcome in the dining room.








The menu.

Fish fritter.

Ricotta and candied something.


Tuna cubes with tsuyu and lime, gazpacho. Marinated cucumbers and crispy rice nest* (Allergens: tuna, soy)

Fried anchovies Salento style accompanied by our aioli and spicy sauces (Allergens: gluten, fish, eggs, garlic)


Fried fish and mayo, just like the east coast shore places.

Frisella crumble with ricotta mousse, marinated anchovies, caramelized red onion and caper flowers (Allergens: gluten. Lactose, fish)

Orecchiette pomodoro.

Shellfish risotto with raw scampi in the mistral contrada li vecchi (Allergens: shellfish, sulphites). Sometimes it’s tough to chose between pasta and risotto!

Grilled or Gallipoli-style tuna fillet with flavoured breading (Allergens: gluten, fish)

Martinesi Bombette au gratin with caciocavallo fondue and toasted hazelnuts (Allergens: gluten, lactose, nuts). These cheese coated/filled beef rolls with hazelnuts were quite interesting.

TA didn’t fail. Sure, the food here was in the bottom third of our dinners this trip, but our standards were high and it was pretty solid — not to mention being quite fast.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Lecce – Duo
  2. Eating Lecce – Doppiozero
  3. Eating Poggibonsi – Babette
  4. Eating Santa Margherita – La Paranza
  5. Eating Santa Margherita – dei Pescatori
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Eating Lecce – Duo

Apr24

Restaurant: Duo

Location: via Giuseppe Garibaldi 11, Lecce, 73100, Italy

Date: August 6, 2024

Cuisine: Modern Apulian Italian

Rating: Great and creative

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For dinner, another Michelin restaurant.

Duo Restaurant offers elegant and versatile spaces, in order to adapt to the needs of your small events. Whether you’re planning an intimate dinner for a few guests or a special event for a larger group, we can provide bespoke solutions to create the perfect atmosphere.

Fabiano Viva: I am 46 years old, I have two sons and a wife who I love and I own two restaurants. My life is passion, efforts and big changes, so it has been inevitable to work behind the stove. In fact, there is no cooking without passion, without fire and without changes. In the past, I worked as a radio host and a sport journalist, and then I worked for Mixer Media Management group. For this reason, I like being with my clients and tell them the beauty of our local products and how fantastic was to work them to create my dishes. My idea of cooking is simple: my leading guide is my land, my sea and my memory… nothing else. I have been lucky to work next to great experts who taught me first how to live. I must thank, above all, Enrico Crippa and Antonio Zaccardi of the Piazza Duomo Restaurant, 3 Michelin stars at Alba, for making me understand the importance of ingredients, the respect for the territory, and the art of cooking. Then, I must thank Enrico Bartolini, chef in the same name restaurant at Mudec in Milan, 2 Michelin stars, where I learnt the elegance and the aesthetic of the dish. But I owe a thank to all farmers, enologists, winemakers, fishermen, bakers, pastry chefs, pasta producers, dairymen, agronomists I met during the years and that I keep on meeting day by day more as a pleasure than as a duty. Finally, I thank my father and my mother, just because they exist.



Welcome cocktail of “apple juice” (really delicious)

Amuse of toasted legumes.

Artichoke.

Another amuse.

Another amuse.

An amuse of crispy rice cracker.

A mini pizza-like amuse.

A puffy “bread” amuse.

A cannoli amuse.

Meat and fish “olive” amuse.


Grisini.

Bread.

A salad to start. Salad composed of a number of ingredients that can vary from 40 to 50.

Amberjack marinated with Sichuan pepper and crystal grass.

Orecchiette pomodoro.

Pasta with cheese, pepper, mussels and sea urchins… Mezzemaniche rigate, Apulian pecorino, pepper and sea urchins. Mussels and pecorino have always been a perfect combination.

Orecchiette with tomato confit. Homemade semolina orecchiette from Paola and cooked in tomato water, seasoned with confit piccadilly cherry tomato sauce.

GF version.

Roasted fish fillet, white butter sauce and Beluga cod and lentils. Fillet of croaker (or similar fish) grilled and accompanied by a very tasty sauce made with fresh cod and butter.

Smoked lobster, albufera sauce and green leaves.

Almond ice cream with cupeta brittle and caramel. 100% Salento. A tribute to the cupeta, a brittle of almonds, honey and caramel that immediately refers to moments of celebration, to those moments of joy shared by the entire community on the most important day of the year: “The feast of the patron saint”!

My sea I don’t know you. The chef’s true iconic dish. All the Mediterranean in a single dessert. “Lemon mousse with caper meringue, anchovies and lemon peel”

Also a very nice meal. The Michelin stars and recommended have been consistently good. The chef came by for a while and was super friendly.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

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  2. Eating Venice – Alle Corone
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  4. Eating Siena – Trattoria Pepei
  5. Eating Rome – La Pergola
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Eating Lecce – Doppiozero

Apr23

Restaurant: Doppiozero

Location: Via Guglielmo Paladini 2 Centro Storico, 73100, Lecce Italy. +39 0832 521052

Date: August 6, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Great bright flavors

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We were sent to this place by our hotel and it turned out to be just what I was looking for: authentic casual food from Puglia.


They had a huge interior but we (and nearly everyone else) sat outside.

Interesting.


Piazza patio.


The menu.

Bread. This wouldn’t be Puglia without breads.

Acciughe del Cantabrico e stracciatella su pane tostato carciofi e scorzette di limone. The stracciatella cheese is so good!

Burrata artiginale, gran misto d’insalta, pomodorini e noci.

Orecchiette pomodoro — of course.

Gargati con pesto di pistacchio, burrata e tartare di tonno. Pistachio pesto, burrata, and tuna. Sounds weird but it was totally awesome.

Spaghettoni con caponata di verdre uvetto passa, olive nere, pinoli e stracciatella. And putting the straciatella cheese in pasta with the strong sauces is also incredible.

Really tasty local place!

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

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  2. Eating Polignano – Tranquillage
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  5. Eating Porta Cervo – Renato Pedrinelli
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Eating Torre Canne – Autentico

Feb18

Restaurant: Autentico Wine & Restaurant

Location: Via Appia Antica, 32, 72015 Torre Canne BR, Italy. +39 338 265 0233

Date: August 5, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Decent for a this kind of hotel resteraunt

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My wife likes to eat at the hotel at least once at beach hotels. I’m not always such a fan as this kind of hotel, while great as a hotel, doesn’t usually have the best resteraunts.

We had drinks and snacks first.

Spritz bianci.

Pimms cup.

Aperol Spritz.



These were SO ADDICTIVE with their hint of fennel.








The menu.

The hotel restaurant itself is named Autentico.

Live music.

Tonno rosso marinato alla camomilla con cialledda al barattiere. Red tuna marinated with camomile, served with barattiere cialledda salad.

Plateau di frutti di mare con ostriche, noci, scampi, gamberi rossi. Seafood plateau with oysters, cockles, scampi and red shrimps.




Orecchiette pomodoro.

Pacchero ai tre crostacei con datterino giallo e rosso in infusione al basilico. Three shellfish paccheri pasta
with yellow and red datterini tomatoes infused in basil

Catch of the day: branzino — grilled.

With grilled vegetables.

Chocolate gelato.

Puzzle semifreddo al cioccolato bianco, mango e lampone. Puzzle of white chocolate, mango and raspberry semifreddo.

Namelaka al cioccolato vegan, frolla di pistacchio e sorbetto all’albicocca cafona di Rotondella. Vegan chocolate namelaka, pistachio shortcrust and Rotondella apricot sorbet.

Lingotto di crema al mascarpone con terra di mandorle al cioccolato e gelato al caffè. Mascarpone cheese ingot,
almond and dark chocolate crumble and flavoured gelato.

While not as good as our outside restaurants, this was definitely solid for a regular hotel restaurant.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Torre Canne – Beach
  2. Eating Positano – Mediterraneo
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  4. Eating NY – Marea
  5. Eating Florence – La Cantinetta Antinori
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Eating Torre Canne – Beach

Feb14

Restaurant: Beach Club

Location: Torre Canne BR, Italy

Date: August 5, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Not bad for the beach

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We caught this meal at our “local” beach club.



Packaged, but these are still delicious.

Octopus.

Salmon Carpaccio.

Orecchiette Pomodoro.

Seafood pasta.

Weird cute packaged desserts.

Had the freezer taste.

Not bad for the beach.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

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  5. Manhattan Beach Post
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Eating Monopoli – Orto

Feb10

Restaurant: Orto Ristorante Naturale

Location: Contrada Tortorella, 520, 70043 Monopoli BA, Italy. +39 080 222 6831

Date: August 4, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Lovely

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Orto is a “Naturale” restaurant attached to a Trulli hotel. For those not in the know, Trulli are ancient stone beehive buildings constructed without mortar.


“An important element in enriching one’s gastronomic experiences is certainly the knowledge of places: of the water, of the earth, of the air that retain the memory of the character of the territory, giving substance and taste to fruits and animals.
The ability of a cook rests on two pillars: the knowledge of the matter and of the ways of treating it in respect of its nature.
One of the tasks that do honor to the good cook is to spread and increase the gastronomic culture, on the one hand by teaching how to eat well and correctly with the food offered on the table, on the other hand by educating young people and passing the baton to those who deserve it, introducing him to gastronomic Culture, that, when it is real, is a conscious experience, applied research in continuous improvement and adaptation to life.
And finally, memento! Creating is not copying. Without pursuing the new, the “never seen” as a qualifying attribute in itself: we can recognize the novelty both in the known and in the unknown, it is important that it draws on the truth.
Art is the putting into action of truth. “
— Gualtiero Marchesi

Orto is located at a Trulli hotel up in the hills. It’s also Michelin recomended.




Lovely place.





We ate in the garden.


The regular menu.

I had a very slightly “expanded” menu.

Amuses.

Bread.


ORTO CIRCOLARE 2021. couscous of courgettes, almonds, pistachios, herbs and seasonal vegetables. This was actually fabulous. Very herby and refreshing.


AUBERGINES TARTELLET. carob flour tartlet, aubergine mustard, sour aubergines. This “bonus” course was tiny, albiet delicious.

Orecchiette pomodoro.

SPAGHETTO, OLIVE, ALMOND AND LEMON. spaghetti, Cellina olives, almonds and salted lemon. Perhaps the best lemon pasta I have every tried. Really good!

TUBETTI RIGATI. tubetti rigati, red turnip, lemon balm strawberries, karkadè and smoked stracciatella cheese. Bright, slightly sour, and a perfect pairing with the cheese.

EGG COOKED UNDER THE ASH. farm egg, potato cream, olive powder.


FREE RANGE CHICKEN. free-range chicken, aromatic herbs, salad. Tasty.

THE FALDACCHEA. black cherries in pomegranate vinegar, almonds, lemon, almond mousse, meringue, cinnamon.


The cherry almond stuff was under the meringue and the overall tasty was INCREDIBLE. Really good.

Almond paste (and delicious).

Old fashioned.

Biscotti.


Orto had less courses and certainly less options but the atmosphere was amazing and the food was very very fresh and really delicious. We really enjoyed it. Plus they were fast as 1 stars go.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Quick Eats – Orto
  2. Eating Colle di Val d’Elsa – Arnolfo
  3. Eating Siena – Trattoria Pepei
  4. Eating Rome – Trastevere
  5. Eating Cervia – Locanda dei Salinari
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Eating Trani – Gallo

Feb06

Restaurant: Gallo

Location: Via Statuti Marittimi, 48/50, 76125 Trani BT, Italy. +39 0883 487255

Date: August 4, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Fancy for touring lunch

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We were in Trani visiting and chose this place (after a bit of surfing).


Outside was booked.

Pomodoro.

A kind of pistachio pesto.

A different kind of blossom pesto.

An interesting “ball of pasta” seafood pasta.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

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  5. Eating Santa Margherita – dei Pescatori
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Eating Savelletri – Due Camini

Feb04

Restaurant: Due Camini

Location: Strada Comunale Egnazia, 72015 Savelletri BR, Italy. +39 080 225 5351

Date: August 3, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Great, if a little performative

_

Another night, another Michelin star. Due Camini is located inside the very swank Hotel Borgo Egnazia in Savelletri.

We actually had a bit of a time finding it — not a lot of signage.



It’s a very elegant chic design. The white objects surrounding the “tree” in the lobby, however, are sort of an “OF chic.”

CHEF DOMingo schingaro

Puglia is his motherland. The sea, his father.
The kitchen is his home.
The brigade, his family.
Domingo Schingaro is a concrete Chef of few words and a thousand dishes that disclose ancient stories.
His recipes reflect the robustness of this region, a fertile land of ingredients and inspirations.
Small producers are his great passion.
Puglia is his heritage.


The dining room.


There were lots of amuses, including this pre-wave.

A bread with ham on top.

And a selection of smaller amuses.

A cannoli.

Sphereized something, maybe eggplant.

More amuses.

Puffed potatoes.

Great breads including this brioche and pizza bread.

Crispy breads.

Super good.

And very nice as well. Southern Italians know their breads.

This was a creamy ricotta-like dip for the breads.

And this special buttery cheese, which was also excellent.


The menu.


Orecchiette pomodoro. First of my son’s pomodoro tasting.

Ricotta cheese, roots, medlars and walnuts. I think.


Seafood caprese. This was awesome and I don’t even love tomatoes.

Grilled lettuce, almonds and agresto.

Podolica beef tartare, barbecue sauce, sea urchins and mussels. In taco form.


More excellent breads.

With a tasting of various local olive oils.

I got the super intense one.

Pomodoro 2.

Rice, bread, olive oil and tomato.

Raviolo pasta, basil and acqua sale.


Ravioli pasta, fish soup and monkfish liver. Strong flavors but delicious.

Risotto.

Whey and citrus fruit pasta. These were simple but truly excellent. Super al dente with a lemon pepper vibe.


More bread!

And pomodoro 3!

Aubergine, black garlic and bergamot.

I think a GF replacement for the aubergine.

Eel, chard and dill. Like a sword!

Beef and aubergine parmigiana. Delicious.

Then we got a kitchen tour.



A dessert intermezzo (delicious).

And a very herbal cold tea (which I also liked).

The wines were nice, and all Italian, but I would have preferred all local.

Chocolate gelato.

Another dessert (GF).

Apricot, seaweed, and buffalo cheese.

Mirabolano. This was incredible actually. Very much like a deconstructed fruit pavlova or something.


Petite Fours.

“Ice cream cone”

Mini sandwich.

Frozen pistachio thingy.

Another mini dessert.

And a gel.

I think it was also the most expensive meal of the trip.


It actually rained while we were at dinner. But overall Due Camini was also a fabulous meal. It had some length, but the pacing was very good and there wasn’t a notciable stall, which is much appreciated. The food was very tasty and quite inventive. The service was superb, but there was a slight air of “trying really really hard” in this high end way — like at one of those over-the-top super high end hotel spas. The staff all had these matched “shabby chic” tunics and quite performace.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Venice – Quadri
  2. Eating Venice – La Colombina
  3. Eating Positano – La Cambusa
  4. Eating Santa Margherita – dei Pescatori
  5. Eating Carovigno – Già Sotto l’Arco
By: agavin
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Eating Carovigno – Già Sotto l’Arco

Jan06

Restaurant: Già Sotto l’Arco

Location: Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 71, 72012 Carovigno BR, Italy. +39 0831 996286

Date: August 2, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Great, but long

_

We drove out to the pretty town of Carovigno for this Michelin one star place.

The main square of Carovigno just after sunset.


Already under the arch is a place of enchantment, a restaurant located in an eighteenth-century building in the white Carovigno, in Puglia.

A place of timeless charm, this restaurant is like a shell of poetry that encloses the art of a family that since 1982 has enchanted with an unstudied mix of art, culture, solid roots, passion and above all love.

Already under the arch is the creature of Teresa Galeone and Teodosio Buongiorno, creators and interpreters of a very personal gastronomic magic on the border between tradition, creativity and refinement.

Osteria gia Sotto L’arco has 1 star.




Delicious amuses.

Creamy and amazing.

Tuna on a cracker leaf.

Beet cannoli.

Another amuse.

Lots of great bread sticks etc.


Crunchy breads.

And grisini.

I grew addicted to these southern bread rings — called “Taralli Pugliesi” — which have been in the Italian diet for at least 2500 years! These donut shaped breads are ancient, once offered to Demeter as sacrifices (tossed into the fire).


And even more local bread! The bread down here is insane.

More orecchiette pomodoro.


Tuna tartare with “jus.”

Fish.

Seared cuttlefish, chicken jus, bergamot and wasabi.

Risotto with yellow peppers, caciocavallo fondue, sea bass and lime ceviche.

Egg, potatoes and peas.


Seared Snapper with Soy Eggplants.

Lamb (or veal?) chops.

Soufflé.

Dessert amuse.

Dessert amuses.

Dessert amuses shaped like and tasting of peanuts.

Faux raspberries.

The food and service were excellent.

This meal was epically long. That can be a Michelin problem. It might have been 1.5 hours between finishing our savory and getting out of there. Hard with jet lag.


Lovely meal, lovely town.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Sotto – Sicily con Sardo
  2. Sotto Rossoblu Mashup
  3. Sotto – Sicilian & Sardinian Scents
  4. Seconds at Sotto
  5. Eating Venice – Quadri
By: agavin
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Eating Polignano – Tranquillage

Jan04

Restaurant: Al Buc Preferito Tranquillage

Location: zza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 4, 70044 Polignano a Mare BA, Italy. +39 080 424 7977

Date: August 2, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Meh

_

A meh lunch at this random location in the main square. It was selected for speed.


Town was gorgeous, however.

Orecchiette con pomodoro. You will see a LOT of these in Puglia.

A Mortadella and pesto pizza that was a pare shadow of the fabulous one I had in Venice.

Pizza Margharita.

Place was just so so — one of the worst meals we had in Italy (given the fact that most were great).

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Venice – Rossopomodoro
  2. Eating Venice – Alle Corone
  3. Eating Milano Marittima – Lo Sporting
  4. Eating Positano – La Cambusa
  5. Eating Santa Margherita – dei Pescatori
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Eating Ostuni – Cielo

Jan02

Restaurant: Cielo Restaurant

Location: Vico Pergola, 9, 72017 Ostuni BR, Italy. +39 0831 305925

Date: July 1, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Wonderful and interesting

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Cielo was our first dinner in Puglia. It’s located in the lovely town of Ostuni, inside a nice hotel and has a Michelin recomendation.



The 5-star Relais La Sommità will make your stay an enchanted one with stylish menus featuring seasonal offerings in our elegant Cielo restaurant.

It is a perfect balance between new and ancient, in an unreal atmosphere, told as if it were a century-old fairy tale set in the rocks that characterize the building.
The Chef offers sensorial journeys between tradition and experimentation, through dishes that play with shapes and colors, using local excellences and preciousness from all over the world.

We give you the opportunity to order à la carte or choose the 4 or 7 course tasting menu. To complete our dishes, a we choosed Apulian, Italian and international wines.

When you book, please view our menu and inform us of any intolerances or allergies, just to guarantee an experience that meets your needs.

From the restaurant of the Relais La Sommità, on the highest point of Ostuni, you have a suggestive view of the alleys and the dazzling Lime of the city walls which frame pictures of clear skies.
The atmosphere of the restaurant is one of sober elegance, even the background music can become a pleasant moment of personal silence.

During the summer period the scent of the citrus fruits of the Spanish Garden make the aperitifs of Relais La Sommità unforgettable at sunset.
They have a beautiful garden, but it was so hot (95F perhaps) that we ate inside the cellar dining room.






As usual for this trip, I wasn’t “allowed” to get the tasting menu because the “entire table” had to use the same format.


As amuse of fresh tomato pizza. I think this one was a gluten free bread.

This may have been the “real” (non GF) pizza. The red blob on the right was tomato jam.

Spherized puffs.

Leaf tacos.

A kind of cucumber like fruit.

The local bread was very good with an ultra crispy crust.

CABBAGE. in cold sauce, soft egg, lentil miso and yuzu.

COD. marinated and fried, caroselle of fennel in vinegar and parsley.

RABBIT. in porchetta, apple and green peppers.


Spaghetti Pomodoro.

SPAGHETTONE. smoked, garlic, oil and chilli pepper, green beans, strong
ricotta fondue and anchovies. This had a strong smoky flavor that was fabulous.

BRANZINO. marinated and grilled, helichrysum, zucchini and sweet garlic.

BEEF DIAPHRAGM. with padre peppe liquor, spinach, savory and black truffle butter. This sounded scary but was very tender and tasted great.

An amuse, I think plum flavored.

ARAGUANI CHOCOLATE. spicy, osmosis watermelon and liquorice parfait.

PEACH. three wines, liquid celery and lemon soda.

FIG. iced and creamy, crusco pepper compote and herbal cheese.

Petite Four.

Petite Four.

Petite Four (fabulous, actually).

Petite Four.


This was a very nice meal, certainly better than our first two in Venice. Quite elegant.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Venice – Alle Corone
  2. Eating Venice – Quadri
  3. Eating Baja – Somu
  4. Eating Senigallia – Madonnina del Pescatore
  5. Eating Santa Margherita – La Paranza
By: agavin
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