Author Archive for agavin

Eating Tysons – Wren

Jul12

Restaurant: Wren

Location: 1825 Capital One Dr S 11th Floor, Tysons, VA 22102. (703) 429-4365

Date: November 27, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese

Chef: Yo Matsuzaki

Rating: ???

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Opened in September 2021 on the 11th floor of the Watermark Hotel at Capital One Center, Wren is the flagship restaurant of B.F. Saul Company Hospitality Group’s newest property. The name, drawn from the Japanese word for “love,” hints at the guiding hand of Executive Chef Yo Matsuzaki, who melds the convivial spirit of a Tokyo izakaya with the seasonal bounty of the Mid-Atlantic. Sushi, sashimi and robata-grilled skewers share menu space with Virginia seafood and Shenandoah produce, all presented in small-plate format meant for table-wide sampling. Behind the marble bar, a cocktail program built around Japanese whiskies, shōchū and local craft spirits reinforces the East-meets-East-Coast theme, while a tight list of sake and Old World wines keeps the mood exploratory.

Wren’s interior amplifies the concept. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the fast-rising Tysons skyline, but inside the palette is restrained—slatted white oak, indigo banquettes and hand-cast copper lighting recall both Japanese minimalism and the region’s craft heritage. The room flows onto an open-air terrace planted with native greenery, letting after-work crowds segue seamlessly from happy hour to dinner under the stars. Since opening, Wren has helped recast Tysons Corner from office park to bona fide dining destination, landing on Washingtonian’s “Best Restaurants” shortlist and becoming a magnet for Capital One employees, hotel guests and Washington-area diners willing to ride Metro’s Silver Line for something new. With its confident synthesis of cultures and its elevated yet relaxed vibe, Wren now serves as a culinary compass point for Northern Virginia’s rapidly evolving food scene.
Tokyo-born and Yokohama-raised, Executive Chef Yo Matsuzaki came to the United States more than two decades ago after graduating from Tsuji Culinary Institute. His résumé reads like a tour of contemporary Japanese cooking on both coasts: early formative years at Morimoto in New York, a sous-chef post at Masa’s Bar M and then the opening team of Blue Ribbon Izakaya; in Washington he led the kitchens at Zentan, Nama and Chaplin’s, earning praise from the Washington Post for “elevating izakaya fare without losing its soul.” Stints at José Andrés’ America Eats Tavern and Michael Mina’s Pabu added Mid-Atlantic sourcing and robata discipline to his skill set before Capital One Center lured him to Tysons Corner to open Wren, the signature restaurant of the Watermark Hotel.

Matsuzaki’s cooking at Wren might be described as “Tokyo tavern meets Virginia harvest.” He treats local ingredients—Rappahannock oysters, Shenandoah lamb, Loudoun County mushrooms—with classic Japanese techniques such as binchōtan grilling, shio koji curing and dashi steeping, then finishes them with the bright acidity and herbaceous notes he picked up in Mina’s kitchens. Guests come for dishes like Chesapeake blue-crab okonomiyaki with sorrel-yuzu mayo, wagyu tataki drizzled in smoked ponzu, and a show-stopping whole rockfish grilled over cherry wood and served with pickled ramps. The beverage list mirrors the food: small-producer sake, Japanese-style highballs and Virginia wines poured from Coravin to encourage exploration.

Accolades have followed quickly: Wren was named one of Northern Virginia Magazine’s “Best New Restaurants” of the year and Matsuzaki landed on Washingtonian’s “10 Chefs to Watch” list. He credits his success to an underlying philosophy he calls wa, a notion of harmonious balance—between tradition and innovation, land and sea, precision and playfulness. “If a dish tells the story of where we are and who grew or caught the ingredients,” he likes to say, “then it belongs on the menu.” That conviction, paired with the chef’s pedigree, has made Wren one of Tysons Corner’s most quietly exciting dining rooms.


This isn’t the Tysons I remember.

The menu at Wren features a diverse selection of Japanese-inspired dishes, emphasizing small plates and shared dining experiences. Highlights include fresh seafood options such as hamachi carpaccio and oysters, alongside grilled items like yakitori and seasonal vegetables. The salad section offers creative combinations, while the ‘age’ category showcases expertly fried dishes. For a heartier option, the ‘men & gohan’ section presents comforting rice dishes, including wagyu fried rice, blending traditional flavors with modern techniques.


The menu.

Hamachi Carpaccio: yellowtail sashimi / avocado / warm jalapeno citrus soy. The delicate slices of yellowtail sashimi glisten with a translucent sheen, inviting you to explore their subtle flavors. The creamy avocado adds a velvety texture, beautifully complemented by the warm jalapeno that imparts a gentle heat, while the citrus soy ties the dish together with a bright, zesty finish that lingers on the palate.

Baby Beets & Horenso: baby spinach / endive / walnuts / candied ginger / maple balsamic vinaigrette. The vivid crimson of the beets contrasts beautifully with the delicate greens, while the candied ginger adds a delightful sweetness that dances on the palate. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of earthiness from the beets and the crisp, refreshing crunch of the endive, enveloped in the rich, tangy embrace of the maple balsamic vinaigrette.

Kakuni Kushi: grilled miso braised short ribs / shiso chimichurri / kimchi slaw. The tender, succulent short ribs are beautifully complemented by the vibrant shiso chimichurri, which adds a refreshing herbal note, while the kimchi slaw introduces a delightful crunch and a hint of spice. The dish presents a harmonious balance of savory, tangy, and umami flavors, with a rich aroma that entices the senses and a visually appealing arrangement that invites exploration.

Pork Belly Bao Buns: slow-braised pork belly / pickled cucumber / cilantro. The delicate softness of the bao envelops the rich, unctuous pork belly, while the bright acidity of the pickled cucumber cuts through the richness, adding a refreshing crunch. The fragrant notes of cilantro elevate each bite, creating a harmonious balance of textures and flavors that linger delightfully on the palate.

Tokyo Chicken: Japanese style crispy fried chicken thighs / house tare / cabbage slaw. The golden-brown exterior crackles delightfully with each bite, revealing tender, juicy meat that bursts with umami-rich flavor. The house tare adds a sweet and savory depth, while the bright, crunchy cabbage slaw provides a refreshing contrast, both in texture and taste, balancing the dish beautifully.

Gindara: miso marinated black cod / chili garlic eggplant. The black cod is exquisitely tender, its silky texture enhanced by the umami-rich miso marinade, while the chili garlic eggplant adds a subtle heat and a velvety mouthfeel that contrasts beautifully with the fish. The dish presents a harmonious palette of deep browns and vibrant purples, enticing both the eyes and the palate with its aromatic depth and balanced flavors.

Yatai Ramen: chicken confit / swiss chard / shaved corn / soft boiled egg / black garlic oil / shio tonkotsu broth. The rich, velvety shio tonkotsu broth envelops each ingredient, creating a harmonious balance of umami and subtle sweetness. The tender chicken confit adds a luxurious mouthfeel, while the vibrant green of the swiss chard and the delicate sheen of the black garlic oil elevate the visual appeal, inviting a deep exploration of flavor with each slurp.

Kinoko Tempura: maitake mushroom, chanterelle mushroom, sesame salt, truffle crème fraîche dipping sauce. The golden-brown tempura offers a delicate crunch, while the earthy umami of the mushrooms harmonizes beautifully with the luxurious truffle crème fraîche. The sesame salt adds a subtle nutty depth, elevating each bite into a symphony of flavor and texture that dances on the palate.


Tasty and modern, but just slightly “white bread” — like it was missing complex and dashi flavors. Not totally snappy.

For more dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Tysons – Patsy’s
  2. Eating Tysons – Silver Diner
  3. Good Night at Good Alley
  4. Westside Family Style
  5. Happy Hibi
By: agavin
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Salon at I-Naba

Jul10

Restaurant: Inaba Restaurant (secret sushi) [1, 2]

Location: 20920 Hawthorne Blvd Ste 110, Torrance, CA 90503. (310) 371-6675

Date: November 22, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Omakase Sushi

Chef: Hiroshi Takahashi

Rating: Awesome

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Tonight’s dinner at I-Naba was at their special “secret” new sushi bar tucked away behind the restaurant. I was invited last minute by my friend Andrew for an all Salon dinner.

Inaba Restaurant opened on Hawthorne Boulevard in 1998 as the first mainland U.S. outpost of a small Tokyo group known for specialist tempura counters and hand-cut soba shops. The founder, chef-owner Kazuhiko Inoue, wanted a place where the fast-growing Japanese community in Torrance could taste the kind of perfectly gauged batter and shimmering dashi he had learned to make in Ginza. Backed by the Inaba family and still run by them today—Inoue’s daughter Saki now manages the dining room while veteran fry master Hiroshi Takahashi commands the seven-seat tempura bar—the restaurant has resisted expansion and social-media flash, choosing instead to keep its forty-odd seats filled through word of mouth and long-held trust.

Culinarily, Inaba works like a workshop rather than a modern Californian fusion spot: buckwheat from Hokkaido is milled in-house each morning for soba, shrimp are butterflied to exact millimeter depth so they lie flat in the fryer, and the cottonseed-sesame oil is replaced several times a service to keep the batter pale and aromatic. The room mirrors that quiet rigor—unfinished cedar beams, shoji screens, and a trickling stone fountain soften the hum of Hawthorne traffic outside. In a South Bay landscape dotted with ramen parlors and high-energy izakayas, Inaba has become a lodestar for classical technique; visiting Japanese executives sit elbow-to-elbow with local chefs who drop in after their own shifts to benchmark their dashi against Inoue’s. Its disciplined, almost ceremonial approach to tempura and noodles has made the restaurant less a trend and more a culinary touchstone—an anchor that reminds Torrance, year after year, how transportive simplicity can be when every detail is honored.

The 2013 Vintage Dom Pérignon hails from the prestigious Champagne region of France, crafted by the renowned Moët & Chandon. This exceptional blend showcases the elegance of both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, offering a refined style that exudes sophistication. With its notes of citrus, brioche, and subtle minerality, it pairs beautifully with delicate seafood dishes or creamy cheeses, making it an ideal choice for celebratory moments.

 

This is the private sushi bar.

A quiet fixture in L.A.’s South Bay for more than a decade, chef Hiroshi Takahashi presides over the 14-seat tempura counter and adjoining dining room at Inaba Restaurant in Torrance. Born in Nagano and formally schooled in the soba craft there, Takahashi apprenticed at the original Tempura Inaba in Tokyo’s Kamata district before spending stints at Ginza Kyubey and the Kaiseki house Wakuden in Kyoto. He was sent to California in 2010 to helm the brand’s U.S. outpost, bringing with him a fastidious Edomae sensibility sharpened by the lighter touch he picked up cooking kaiseki. Local critics quickly took notice: the L.A. Times called his batter “gossamer yet structured,” and Michelin added Inaba to its Bib Gourmand list in 2019; Japanese TV food writer Tamio Ikeda dubbed him “the ambassador of California shun,” a nod to the chef’s habit of sourcing Santa Barbara spot prawns and Weiser Family Farms vegetables the morning they hit their peak.


The “secret” i-naba sushi private omakase room is tucked away inside the Izakaya/Tempura house. Basically, one chef and us.

House-made buckwheat soba with Hokkaido uni and wasabi dashi. Stunning. Bright flavors. Bitey, rich noodles. Really good. The delicate, nutty essence of the buckwheat soba harmonizes beautifully with the creamy, briny richness of the Hokkaido uni, while the wasabi dashi provides a gentle, invigorating kick that elevates each bite. The dish presents a delightful interplay of textures, from the silky smoothness of the uni to the satisfying chew of the noodles, creating a captivating culinary experience.

Mullet Sashimi, yuzu, sea salt. Also very lovely. The delicate, translucent slices of mullet glisten with a subtle sheen, inviting you to savor their buttery texture. The bright acidity of yuzu dances on the palate, harmonizing beautifully with the crystalline sea salt, creating a refreshing and invigorating experience that lingers long after each bite.

Ikuara Chawnamushi. Really delicate and fabulous. The silky custard melts in your mouth, revealing the subtle umami of the dashi and the gentle sweetness of seasonal ingredients. Its ethereal texture is complemented by a fragrant, almost floral aroma, creating a harmonious balance that invites contemplation with each spoonful.


Just a few “decent” champagnes.

Presented with a masterful flourish, the dish of grilled mackerel captivates the senses with its shimmering, deep bronze skin, artfully charred to reveal a glistening sheen that hints at its succulence. As the aromatic wafts of smokiness entwine with the briny freshness of the sea, they evoke a sense of coastal nostalgia. The texture is a harmonious juxtaposition of crispness on the exterior, yielding to the tender, buttery flesh within, each bite releasing a burst of umami that dances on the palate. A subtle citrus note lingers, adding a bright counterpoint to the rich, savory depth, making this dish an unforgettable symphony of flavors that beckons for another indulgent taste.

Smoked Small Bonito. The smoke was cherry blossom and it was garnished with shiso sauce and onions. Really great too. Quite assertive. The delicate, smoky notes of the bonito harmonize beautifully with the fragrant shiso, while the crispness of the onions adds a delightful crunch. Each bite delivers a nuanced interplay of umami and subtle sweetness, inviting you to savor the complexity of flavors and textures on your palate.

Oil poached tilefish with crispy scales and seaweed gravy. Delicate. The fish glistens with a lovely sheen, its tender flesh yielding effortlessly to the fork, while the crispy scales add a delightful crunch. The umami-rich seaweed gravy envelops each bite, imparting a briny depth that beautifully complements the mild sweetness of the tilefish, creating a harmonious balance of oceanic flavors that linger on the palate.

Steamed Shirako from Hokkaido with zesty ponzu and radish. Perfect shirako — amazing. The delicate, creamy texture of the shirako is beautifully complemented by the bright acidity of the ponzu, while the crispness of the radish adds a refreshing crunch. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, inviting a sensory journey that is both refreshing and deeply satisfying.

Sous vide monkfish liver from Hokaido. Very soft and sweet. The liver boasts a delicate, buttery texture that melts in the mouth, while its subtle sweetness is accented by a hint of ocean brine. Visually striking, it presents a rich, creamy hue that invites you to savor its luxurious flavor profile, enhanced by the gentle warmth of the sous vide preparation.


House-made ginger (two types).

Shima Prefecture, Magaro. The fish was 260 lbs.

Baby sea bream cured in kombu. Baby sea bream cured in kombu. The delicate, translucent flesh of the fish glistens, revealing a subtle sheen that hints at its oceanic origins. As I take a bite, the umami richness of the kombu envelops my palate, harmonizing beautifully with the gentle sweetness of the bream, while a whisper of brininess lingers in the air, reminiscent of a serene coastal breeze.

Here we see the talented chef meticulously crafting a masterpiece, igniting the flavors that will soon delight the diners’ palates.

Torched Baracuda – The fish is lightly seared with a hint of citrus, offering a delicate balance of smokiness and brightness. The tender, flaky texture is complemented by a subtle char that enhances its natural sweetness, while the vibrant hues of the dish invite you to savor each bite. The aroma of the grilled fish mingles beautifully with the refreshing notes of the accompanying sauce, creating an elegant experience that lingers long after the last morsel is gone.

This exquisite sake is from the renowned producer Dewazakura, located in the Yamagata Prefecture. The 2020 vintage showcases a Junmai Daiginjo style, characterized by its polished rice and delicate aromas of melon and white flowers. Ideal for pairing with sashimi or light seafood dishes, it offers a refreshing finish that complements the purity of the ingredients.

Another standout is the 2021 release from the same producer, a Junmai Ginjo that captures the essence of its region with its vibrant acidity and notes of stone fruit and citrus. Its versatility makes it a perfect match for grilled chicken or flavorful vegetable dishes, enhancing the umami profile of the meal.

Japanese Knife Jar (sea bread), chewy with lots of wasabi. The vibrant green of the wasabi contrasts beautifully with the subtle, oceanic tones of the sea bread, creating a visually striking dish. Each bite delivers a delightful interplay of textures, where the softness of the bread is perfectly complemented by the sharp, pungent kick of the wasabi, awakening the palate and leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for more.

As the chef delicately assembles the tempura, the vibrant golden hue of the batter glistens under the soft lighting, promising a crisp texture that beckons the senses. The aroma wafts through the air, a tantalizing blend of warm oil and earthy vegetables, enticing with each passing moment. Upon the first bite, the delicate crunch gives way to tender morsels, their natural sweetness enhanced by a whisper of sea salt, creating a harmonious balance of flavors that lingers on the palate. This dish, a testament to the mastery of technique and the purity of ingredients, invites you to savor the artistry behind every element, leaving you enchanted and yearning for more.

Fried Japanese Green Eye Fish Handroll. Not sure I’ve had a fish stick handroll, but quite lovely. The delicate crunch of the fried exterior gives way to a tender, flaky interior, while the subtle umami of the fish harmonizes beautifully with the creamy texture of the accompanying ingredients. The vibrant colors and meticulous presentation elevate the experience, inviting you to savor each bite as the flavors unfold on your palate.

Fial Fish with its own Liver. The chew and sweetness on this dish was divine. The tender, silken texture of the fish harmonizes beautifully with the rich, unctuous liver, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that lingers pleasantly. Its delicate flavor, imbued with a hint of brininess, is artfully complemented by subtle undertones of earthiness, making each bite an exquisite experience.


Hokkaido Uni — perfect condition and grade.

Hokkaido Uni Nigiri, two ways: sea salt and soy sauce. The soy sauce was even better. The delicate, creamy texture of the uni melts luxuriously on the palate, while the umami-rich soy sauce amplifies its briny sweetness, creating a harmonious balance that dances between oceanic freshness and savory depth. Each bite is a sumptuous experience, with the glossy sheen of the nigiri inviting the senses to indulge in this exquisite culinary delight.

Otoro (18 day aged) Sushi. Incredible. The luscious, marbled fat of the otoro melts on the palate, releasing a symphony of umami that is both rich and delicate. Its vibrant pink hue, glistening with a slight sheen, invites the senses, while the subtle aroma of the ocean lingers in the air, enhancing the overall experience of this exquisite piece of sushi.

Cured Sawa. Salty! The vibrant hues of the cured fish glisten under a delicate sheen, inviting you to experience its rich, briny essence. Each bite reveals a delightful balance of flavors, where the saltiness is beautifully complemented by a subtle sweetness, evoking the essence of the ocean while offering a silky texture that melts effortlessly on the palate.

The G. Khan 2022 Chardonnay from Marfarm Vineyards in Edna Valley showcases a vibrant expression of California’s terroir. This organically farmed wine bursts with notes of crisp green apple and ripe pear, complemented by a subtle hint of vanilla from oak aging. Its bright acidity makes it a perfect match for seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a classic lobster risotto.

With its well-balanced structure and refreshing finish, this Chardonnay is a testament to the region’s potential for crafting elegant whites. The wine’s mineral undertones and citrus zest lend themselves beautifully to light salads and creamy pasta dishes, making it an excellent choice for various culinary pairings.

Mizataki Mushroom Dashi. So delicate and light. Smoky flavors. The dashi envelops the palate with a whisper of umami, its ethereal broth shimmering with a translucent allure. Each sip unveils a harmonious interplay of earthy notes and subtle smokiness, beckoning the senses with a fragrant bouquet that recalls a serene forest after rain.


Eel. Super soft and amazing.

Housemade Tomago. A delicate Japanese omelet that is both sweet and savory, with a silky texture that melts in your mouth. The golden layers are meticulously crafted, showcasing a beautiful gradient of color that invites you to take a bite. As you savor each morsel, the subtle umami notes mingle with a hint of sweetness, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate, while the aroma of fresh eggs adds a comforting warmth to the experience.

 

Coconut Cream Pie, Kappacino, and Blood Orange Sorbetto. The Coconut Cream Pie is a luscious balance of rich, velvety coconut filling nestled within a buttery crust, while the Kappacino offers an inviting aroma with its deep coffee notes intertwined with a hint of creamy sweetness. The Blood Orange Sorbetto is a refreshing explosion of vibrant citrus, striking a harmonious balance between tartness and delicate sweetness, beautifully presented in a radiant, jewel-like hue. Each dish is a testament to the art of flavor, showcasing a delightful interplay of textures and tastes that linger on the palate.

The gang. This was an incredible night with some absolutely first-rate sushi — up there with the best I have had this year. Not surprisingly, it’s similar in style to Miyagi. The wines were amazing, with all of them shining. The ’96 (particularly the first bottle) was awesome, but so were all the others. Even the ’12 opened up after a couple of hours into amazing white flowers. Best of all, the company was extremely convivial and relaxed. Great night! The sushi was a symphony of freshness, with each piece showcasing a delicate balance of flavors and textures, from the melt-in-your-mouth tuna to the crisp, vibrant garnishes. The wines, with their floral notes and complex layers, elevated the experience, creating a harmonious interplay that lingered delightfully on the palate.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Final Miyagi
  2. Good Night at Good Alley
  3. Taberu Time
  4. Salon Sushi
  5. Desert Magic
By: agavin
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Taberu Time

Jul08

Restaurant: Taberu LA

Location: 806 E 3rd St Unit 140 Los Angeles, CA 90013.

Date: November 16, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Comfort Food

Rating: Decent

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Bovon organized this fun but giant dinner.

In a neighborhood thick with ramen joints, French bistros and tasting-menu destinations, Taberu Shabu Shabu has carved out a niche as the area’s go-to spot for communal hot pot and late-night comfort. Food writers credit it with helping to normalize premium Japanese near Little Tokyo, and local chefs are known to drop by after service for a restorative pot of kombu broth and farmers-market chrysanthemum greens. With its patient, Japanese-Californian sensibility and an atmosphere that feels equal parts izakaya and modern loft, Taberu has become a quiet anchor in DTLA’s fast-shifting food landscape—proof that “to eat” can still mean to connect, to linger and to rediscover simplicity.


A giant 25-30 person Bovon gang dinner at Taberu.

Gathered around the elegantly set table, these enthusiastic diners prepare to savor a memorable culinary journey, with one gentleman expertly pouring a fine wine to enhance the experience.

Oyster shooter. Good, but I would have liked more acidity. The briny essence of the oyster is complemented by a delicate interplay of textures, as the smoothness of the liquid contrasts with the tender chew of the mollusk. A hint of the sea lingers on the palate, inviting a burst of brightness that would elevate the experience further.

Sashimi. Very nice quality fish. Pretty straight up, however. The fish glistens with a fresh sheen, inviting your senses to explore its delicate, buttery texture. Each slice melts in your mouth, offering a clean and subtle sweetness that is beautifully enhanced by a whisper of ocean brine, leaving a lingering freshness on the palate.

Wagyu skewer. Juicy. The rich marbling of the Wagyu creates a melt-in-your-mouth experience, while the caramelized exterior adds a delightful crunch. Each bite bursts with umami, enhanced by a whisper of smokiness that lingers, making this skewer an irresistible indulgence for the senses.

Uni and Ikura. Nice quality. The creamy, briny richness of the uni melds beautifully with the vibrant, bursting textures of the ikura. As you take a bite, the warm umami notes of the sea envelop your palate, while the glossy pearls of salmon roe pop delightfully, releasing a delicate, oceanic flavor that lingers softly, inviting you to savor each mouthful.


Shrimp.

Jewish egg roll. Salmon and cream cheese. A bit odd. The crispy, golden exterior yields to a rich, creamy filling that balances the lusciousness of the cream cheese with the savory depth of the salmon. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of textures, while aromatic hints of dill and a subtle tang weave through, creating a uniquely satisfying experience that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Chicken thighs. Very juicy and excellent. Nicely seasoned. The succulent meat, with its golden-brown crisp skin, exudes an enticing aroma that lingers in the air. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of savory spices, complemented by a tender, moist texture that dances on the palate, leaving a delightful, lingering warmth.

Wagyu donburi. Quite good, but I would have liked the rice more vinegared. The luscious, marbled beef, with its rich umami notes, beautifully contrasts the delicate grains, which could benefit from a brighter acidity to elevate the overall harmony. The warm, savory aroma wafts invitingly, promising a satisfying culinary experience that dances on the palate.

Albacore nigiri about 30 minutes after everything else, and that was the end. The delicate, buttery slices of albacore glistened under a soft sheen, inviting with their subtle pink hue. Each piece melted on the palate, offering a gentle umami embrace, while the vinegared rice provided a perfect contrast in texture, grounding the experience with its slight sweetness and tender chew. A hint of wasabi lingered in the background, enhancing the overall harmony of flavors.


This was an enjoyable dinner, but the group was too large and the food — while very well executed — a bit “boring” for my taste. Plus, we had to go for second dinner!

The Comtes de Champagne, produced by Taittinger in the renowned Champagne region, showcases the elegance of the 2012 vintage. This Blanc de Blancs is a stunning expression of Chardonnay, offering vibrant notes of citrus, green apple, and hints of brioche. Ideal for pairing with oysters or delicate seafood dishes, it elevates any celebration with its fine bubbles and lingering finish.

The 2012 Saint-Aubin En Remilly Premier Cru from the renowned producer is a stunning example of Burgundy’s exquisite terroir. This Chardonnay exhibits bright acidity and layered notes of green apple, citrus zest, and subtle minerality, reflecting its high-quality vineyard origins. Pair it beautifully with roasted chicken or creamy risotto to enhance its elegance.

With its harmonious balance and rich texture, this wine is a delightful companion to seafood dishes, particularly buttery scallops or lobster. The oak treatment adds a hint of toastiness, complementing the wine’s fresh fruit character and making it a versatile choice for various culinary experiences.

The gang.  And speaking of gang, we tried to go get second dinner in Thai Town!


Second dinner at Pork Gang!


David was just out of it.

Here we find a moment of tranquility as one of our diners savors the experience, embodying the joy of fine cuisine amidst a lively atmosphere.

Here we see a delighted diner savoring a refreshing drink, enjoying the vibrant atmosphere and flavors of the evening meal.

Roast duck. Very juicy. Not crispy at all. The succulent meat glistens with a rich, amber hue, inviting you to savor each tender bite. The aroma is a warm embrace, a hint of smokiness lingering in the air, while the flavors unfold with a delicate balance of savory and slightly sweet notes, creating a comforting yet sophisticated experience.

Boat noodles. Nice. These delightful bowls of broth, typically rich and aromatic, envelop the senses with their deeply complex flavors. The interplay of tender noodles and succulent meat, combined with a hint of spice and the fragrance of fresh herbs, creates a harmonious balance that dances on the palate, inviting you to savor every slurp.

Pad Thai with crispy pork belly. This classic dish bursts with vibrant flavors, where the sweet and tangy tamarind sauce dances harmoniously with the umami richness of the crispy pork belly. The noodles, perfectly tender yet satisfyingly chewy, are adorned with a medley of fresh herbs and crunchy peanuts, creating a delightful contrast in both texture and taste. The enticing aroma of wok hei adds an irresistible depth, making each bite a comforting yet sophisticated experience.

Beef “jerky.” This classic snack is a flavorful treat that offers a satisfying chewiness. The rich, umami notes of the beef are beautifully balanced with a hint of smokiness, while the slightly sweet and salty seasoning enhances its savory profile. Each bite reveals a tapestry of textures, from the tender strands to the occasional crisp edge, inviting you to linger over its rustic charm.

Fried rice. Very sweet (but delicious). The dish presents a harmonious blend of grains, each bite offering a delicate chewiness that contrasts beautifully with the subtle crunch of sautéed vegetables. Aromas of caramelization waft through the air, while the sweetness lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor its comforting richness.

Thai sausage is a delightful blend of spices and herbs, offering a unique taste experience. The aroma is intoxicating, with hints of lemongrass and garlic wafting through the air. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of sweet and savory, complemented by a satisfying snap from the casing. The vibrant colors of the dish, paired with a side of fresh herbs, elevate its presentation, making it not just a meal, but a feast for the senses.

Shrimp cakes — my favorite of the round. The delicate crunch of the exterior gives way to a tender, succulent interior, bursting with the umami richness of fresh shrimp. Each bite is elevated by a hint of citrus zest, complementing the savory notes and creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Good Night at Good Alley
  2. Final Miyagi
  3. Westside Family Style
  4. Desert Magic
  5. Soy Sauce Mexican Chilies
By: agavin
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Kinjiro Rules

Jul06

Restaurant: Kinjiro [1, 2, 3]

Location: 424 E 2nd St, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 229-8200

Date: November 15, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese

Rating: Great modern Japanese comfort food

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I last went here about a decade ago with the Babykillers — and before that to BOS in this same spot. BOS was good, but kinda extreme, being an offal restaurant. The owners then rebooted the space as Kinjiro, a modern Izakaya (bar with food), which has proved very popular.


It looks pretty much the same as it did before, with slight superficial alterations.

1A4A1569-Pano
Once upon a time, a boy named Ninomiya Kinjiro rose from humble origins and became one of the most beloved statesmen in Japan, bringing food and joy to the people during hard times via agricultural reform.
We, Nomiya (“Tavern”) KINJIRO, strive to carry on our namesake’s mission and bring happiness to our customers via good food & drink.



The menu.


Uni, Ikura, Scallop & Blue Crab (1pc | single serving). Dashi-seasoned Ikura. Very soft with a sweet and “sour” dashi. Lovely.

King Salmon Sashimi (New Zealand | 7pc). Great salmon.

Cured Mackerel “Saba Kobujime” Sashimi. Lovely and oily (in a great way).



American Wagyu Beef Tataki. Soft and meaty.


Assorted “Nukazuke” Pickles. Not quite as sour (or sweet) as I might like.

Kibinago Japanese Sardine Tempura. Great.

Agedashi Fried Tofu with Organic Mushrooms Ankake Sauce. Always the best!

Chilean Sea Bass with Saikyo Miso. Very light and lovely.

Uni Risotto. Super soft and yummy.


Free-range Duck Breast with Kanzuri.

Thick-cut Beef Tongue with Yuzu Negi. Chewy, hot, and delicious.

Beef Tendon, Tongue Miso Stew. Deep and rich.

Hot Inaniwa Udon Noodles with Braised Beef Tongue Soup. Not really udon, but very Pho-like.

Beef Tongue Curry Rice. Awesome!

Marinated American Wagyu Boneless Short Rib. Yum.

American Wagyu Sukiyaki-Don (Simmered Beef over Rice, Poached Egg).

Overall, an amazingly fun night. Great company. Great wines. And some really tasty comfort food that paired very well.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Election Night at A.O.C.

Jul04

Focaccia. Burrata, anchovy, caciocavallo, salsa rustica & aleppo.

more info here.

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By: agavin
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Good Night at Good Alley

Jul01

Restaurant: Good Alley

Location: 8450 E Valley Blvd #108, Rosemead, CA 91770.  (626) 280-2800

Date: October 20, 2024

Cuisine: Dumplings and small plates

Rating: Great, but needs LL

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Good Alley just opened from the same people as JiRong.

It’s right next door, but is much more casual and modern.


A line, even two weeks in.

Very crowded, despite having just opened.

The menu.

Cucumber with XO Sauce. Solid cucumber. Nice crunch, a tiny bit sweet and spicy. The vibrant green hue of the cucumber contrasts beautifully with the rich, umami-packed XO sauce, creating a dish that is as visually appealing as it is flavorful. Each bite offers a delightful interplay of crisp texture and subtle heat, inviting you to savor the complexities of this simple yet sophisticated combination.

Japanese Scallops with Lemon Dressing. Fresh and lovely. These delicate scallops glisten like pearls, their translucent flesh hinting at a tender sweetness that is perfectly complemented by the bright acidity of the lemon dressing. Each bite is a harmonious blend of oceanic brininess and zesty brightness, creating an exquisite balance that dances on the palate.

Xi’an Cold Noodles. Really good take on the infamous “bang bang” noodles. The sauce was tangy and spicy and quite excellent. The vibrant hues of the dish beckon with a glossy sheen, while the contrasting textures of the tender noodles and crunchy garnishes create a delightful mouthfeel. Each bite offers a harmonious dance of heat and acidity, inviting you to savor the complex layers of flavor that linger on the palate.

Sliced Beef & Ox Tongue in Chili Sauce. 8/10 version of this favorite. Good meat and some heat. I would have liked just a bit more numbing and peanut. I miss the fiery GuYi version. The dish presents a vibrant symphony of colors, with tender slices of beef and ox tongue glistening in a rich, ruby-hued chili sauce. Each bite offers a harmonious blend of savory depth and subtle spice, inviting you to savor the interplay of textures as the meat dissolves luxuriously on the palate, while the fragrant notes of chili linger enticingly in the air.

Wagyu Beef Chinese “Burger”. Crispy and the meat was tender, but it wasn’t nearly as savory as the pork variant. The Wagyu beef, with its marbled richness, offered a luxurious mouthfeel that contrasted beautifully with the crunchy exterior. While the flavor profile leaned towards subtlety, a gentle umami lingered, inviting a deeper exploration of its umami nuances.

Kurobuta Pork & Celery Dumplings and Three Delicacies Dumplings. We had one plate of each, but I forgot to photo one—they looked nearly identical from the outside and were both very tasty. The delicate wrappers encased a savory filling that was both succulent and rich, with the Kurobuta pork offering a hint of sweetness that harmonized beautifully with the crispness of celery. Each bite was a delightful interplay of soft texture and aromatic flavors, leaving a lingering essence that beckoned for more.

Kurobuta Pork Chinese “Burger”. Great. The succulent kurobuta pork is nestled within a pillowy, lightly steamed bun, creating a delightful contrast in texture. With each bite, the rich, savory flavors of the pork intermingle with subtle hints of umami, while the bun’s delicate sweetness offers a perfect balance, inviting you to savor the experience with each mouthful.

Sichuan Dan Dan Noodles. These were a quick, lovely take on Dan Dan — but with almost no chili. Still, I liked all that sesame and the meaty flavor. We also had an (unpictured) Sichuan-style Beef Zhajiang Noodles, which were a bit similar, but with chunkier beef and no sesame. The Dan Dan noodles were a delightful balance of creamy sesame richness and savory umami, their silky texture gliding effortlessly across the palate, while the subtle aromatic notes lingered in the air, inviting each bite. In contrast, the Zhajiang noodles offered a heartier experience, with robust, tender beef complementing the dish’s earthy undertones, creating a satisfying and comforting meal.

Kurobuta Pork & Crab Meat Soup Dumplings. Amazing! The delicate skin encases a rich filling that bursts with the umami of the kurobuta pork, perfectly balanced by the sweet brininess of the crab meat. Each dumpling is a harmonious blend of textures, with a glossy sheen that hints at the savory broth within, inviting you to savor the experience as the fragrant steam wafts through the air.

Kurobuta Pork Soup Dumplings. Slightly more focused and perhaps even better. These delicate dumplings offer a sublime balance of rich, savory broth and tender, juicy pork, all encased in a thin, translucent wrapper that glistens enticingly. The aroma is inviting, with hints of ginger and scallions wafting through the air, while each bite reveals a harmonious blend of flavors that dance on the palate, leaving a lingering warmth and satisfaction.


All the dishes we had here were first rate. The format is a touch annoying, given that it’s crowded with smaller tables and that they don’t yet have a liquor license. And even when they do, without reservations and with the small tables it would be good for a 4 person dinner really. 6 person lunch when less crowded.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Final Miyagi

Jun29

Restaurant: Sushi Miyagi [ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ]

Location: 150 S Barrington Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90049. (323) 382-5635

Date: October 17, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi

Rating: Top Shelf Omakase Sushi

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It is with great sadness that we visited Miyagi for the last time. Real estate issues have tragically led to their closure :-(.

So of course we had to bring some great white burgs, Raveneau in particular.

The 1995 Chablis Grand Cru from Domaine François Raveneau showcases the epitome of elegance and complexity. Hailing from the esteemed Chablis region in Burgundy, this wine presents a vibrant acidity balanced by rich notes of ripe citrus and flint. Its minerality reflects the unique terroir, making it a perfect companion for fresh oysters or a classic sole meunière, enhancing the dining experience with its bright yet profound character.


Amuses.

Oyster (Baja) Caviar: A delicate treat that bursts with the essence of the sea. The glistening pearls, glinting like jewels, offer a briny, umami-rich explosion that dances on the palate, while their silky texture provides a luxurious mouthfeel. Each bite is an invitation to savor the ocean’s bounty, enhanced by a whisper of minerality and a hint of grassy freshness that lingers long after the last morsel.

Monkfish liver with jelly. Monkfish liver is an exquisite delicacy, smooth and rich, paired with a delicate jelly that enhances its natural umami. The luxurious creaminess of the liver contrasts beautifully with the subtle sweetness of the jelly, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate. The dish presents itself in a stunning array of colors, inviting you to indulge in its velvety texture and complex flavors, while the gentle aroma hints at the ocean’s depth, making each bite a memorable experience.

Green Eye Fish (salt fried). This dish is a delightful revelation, with the crispy skin giving way to tender, flaky flesh that is both savory and subtly sweet. The golden-brown exterior crackles with each bite, releasing a fragrant aroma of sea salt and a hint of umami, while the fish’s natural juices create a harmonious balance that dances on the palate.

Boiled shirako (cod sperm) with ponzu. My favorite prep of this. The delicate, creamy texture of the shirako contrasts beautifully with the bright, citrusy notes of the ponzu, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. Each bite offers a rich umami depth, enhanced by the subtle aroma of the ocean, making it a truly captivating experience.

The 2005 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir from Domaine François Raveneau showcases the exquisite terroir of the Chablis region in France. This renowned white wine offers a complex palate with notes of ripe citrus, flint, and subtle oak, balanced beautifully by its vibrant acidity. Pair it with fresh oysters or a delicate sole meunière to enhance its mineral character.

With its elegant structure and depth, this vintage exemplifies the classic Chablis style, where the purity of Chardonnay is highlighted through meticulous winemaking. The wine’s lingering finish and nuanced flavors make it a perfect companion for rich, creamy dishes, such as lobster with drawn butter.

Amadai snapper. Crab and onion sauce. Oil bathed to cook. The sauce was incredible. The amadai snapper, with its delicate, flaky flesh, presents a stunning contrast to the rich, umami-laden crab and onion sauce, which envelops each bite in a velvety embrace. As you savor this dish, the subtle sweetness of the snapper mingles with the savory depths of the sauce, creating a harmonious balance that lingers tantalizingly on the palate.

Pike Mackerel – A stunning specimen showcasing its iridescent skin and delicate, flaky flesh. The dish offers a lean yet rich flavor, with subtle hints of the sea that linger on the palate. The exquisite texture, complemented by a lightly charred exterior, creates a delightful contrast to its moist interior, while the aroma is reminiscent of a fresh ocean breeze, further enhancing the overall experience.

Snow crab from Hokkaido. Kani miso. The delicate sweetness of the snow crab is beautifully complemented by the rich, umami-packed kani miso, which adds a luxurious creaminess to each bite. The vibrant, glistening white flesh contrasts with the deep, earthy tones of the miso, creating a visually stunning presentation that entices the palate. As you savor this exquisite dish, the subtle brininess of the ocean lingers, evoking the pristine waters of Hokkaido, while the tender texture of the crab melts effortlessly in your mouth.

The chef’s work box.

The 2011 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur from Domaine François Raveneau is a quintessential expression of its terroir, showcasing the elegance and minerality synonymous with this prestigious region. With bright acidity and layered complexity, it reveals notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a saline finish, making it a perfect companion to oysters or a delicate white fish dish.

This wine’s vibrant character is enhanced by its age, allowing for subtle hints of honey and flint to emerge, harmonizing beautifully with the fresh fruit profile. Ideal for a special occasion, it pairs exquisitely with rich seafood or creamy cheeses, elevating the overall dining experience.

The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir from Domaine William Fèvre showcases the elegance of the Chablis region. With its mineral-driven profile, this Chardonnay offers notes of ripe pear, citrus zest, and a distinct flintiness that speaks to the terroir. Perfectly paired with delicate seafood dishes like oysters or grilled sole, it elevates the dining experience with its crisp acidity and long, lingering finish.

From the renowned vineyards of Chablis, this vintage exemplifies the balance between richness and freshness, making it a stunning choice for those who appreciate the finer nuances of Burgundy wines. The complexity and depth in flavor make it a delightful companion for creamy sauces or a classic coq au vin.


Triggerfish. Monkfish liver.

Japanese Scallop: Slightly bitter from skin. Delicious. The scallop’s delicate, translucent flesh glistens with a pearlescent sheen, inviting you to savor its sweet oceanic essence. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of briny notes and subtle sweetness, enhanced by the intriguing contrast of the slightly bitter skin, creating a symphony of flavor that dances on the palate.

Wild baby yellowtail. Soy sauce marinated with Japanese black pepper. The fish glistens with an enticing sheen, its delicate, buttery flesh offering a sublime contrast to the subtle heat of the black pepper. As I take a bite, the umami-rich soy sauce envelops my palate, while the gentle spice lingers, enhancing the overall experience with its aromatic complexity.

Hari squid with lemon and shiso. This dish showcases tender squid elevated by the bright, zesty notes of lemon and the unique, herbaceous quality of shiso. The vibrant colors of the dish entice the eye, while the delicate balance of umami and acidity dances on the palate, creating a refreshing yet complex flavor experience that lingers delightfully. The interplay of textures, from the slightly chewy squid to the crispness of the shiso, adds an intriguing dimension, making each bite a joyful exploration of taste.

Spanish mackerel with green onion. The dish presents an alluring contrast between the buttery richness of the fish and the sharp, vibrant notes of the green onion. The mackerel’s skin glistens with a delicate sheen, while the green onion adds a refreshing crunch that elevates each bite, infusing the experience with a fragrant burst of umami. The interplay of flavors dances on the palate, leaving a lingering, savory essence that beckons for another taste.

Charred Barracuda. This dish features expertly grilled barracuda, showcasing a perfect char that adds a smoky depth to its natural flavor. The fish’s firm texture contrasts beautifully with its delicate, flaky interior, while the subtle hints of citrus elevate the dish, making each bite a harmonious balance of zest and umami. Visually, the vibrant crust glistens with a tantalizing sheen, inviting you to indulge in its rich, savory essence.

Bluefin tiuna aged 24 (or 34) days. This exquisite fish, with its rich marbling and deep, oceanic flavor, offers a luxurious experience that is both tender and umami-driven. The vibrant, ruby-red flesh glistens invitingly, while the aroma is reminiscent of a fresh sea breeze, transporting you to its natural habitat. Each bite melts in your mouth, releasing a complex blend of savory notes that linger beautifully on the palate.

Otoro: The luxurious belly of the bluefin tuna, with its rich marbling and buttery texture, truly melts in your mouth. Each delicate slice presents a glistening sheen, inviting you to savor its opulent flavor. The umami notes are profound, complemented by a hint of sweetness that lingers on the palate, while the subtle aroma of the ocean evokes a sense of tranquility. This exquisite delicacy is not just a dish; it’s an experience that beautifully captures the essence of culinary artistry.


Goldeneye snapper.

Snapper with truffle. This dish features a beautifully seared snapper, enhanced by the earthy aroma of truffle. The fish is tender and flaky, with a delicate balance of richness from the truffle that elevates its natural sweetness. The presentation is vibrant, with a glossy finish that invites you to savor each bite, while the subtle umami notes linger pleasantly on the palate.

Chawanmushi with tomato sauce. Unusual but excellent combo. The delicate, silky custard of the chawanmushi contrasts beautifully with the vibrant acidity of the tomato sauce, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. Each spoonful offers a subtle umami depth, enhanced by the freshness of the tomatoes, while the dish’s warm, inviting colors tantalize the senses before the first taste.


Black throat. Grilled onion.

Hokkaido uni: This exquisite delicacy is a true reflection of the ocean’s bounty, with its creamy texture and briny sweetness. The vibrant golden hue glistens enticingly, inviting you to indulge in its luxurious richness. Each velvety bite unravels layers of umami, complemented by a subtle hint of the sea breeze, making it an unforgettable experience for the palate.


Mexican uni.

A4 Beef.

Anago Sea Eel from Tokyo, Japan. This dish captures the essence of the ocean with its delicate, subtly sweet flavor and a melt-in-your-mouth texture. The translucent skin glistens, hinting at the fresh brininess of the sea, while the gentle aroma evokes a sense of sophistication. Each bite is a harmonious balance of umami and salinity, leaving a lingering, satisfying taste that transports you straight to the bustling streets of Tokyo.


Ikura.

Crab handroll. A delightful combination of fresh crab meat wrapped in a delicate sheet of nori, accompanied by perfectly seasoned sushi rice and a touch of wasabi. The handroll presents a beautiful contrast of vibrant colors, with the creamy white crab juxtaposed against the deep green of the nori. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of briny sweetness and umami, while the soft texture of the crab melds wonderfully with the slight chew of the rice, creating a satisfying mouthfeel that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Macha almond white gelato is a sublime creation that combines the earthy notes of matcha with the delicate creaminess of almond, resulting in a luxurious frozen dessert. The vibrant green hue of the gelato is not only visually striking but also hints at the complex flavor profile within. Each spoonful offers a silky texture that melts effortlessly on the palate, releasing layers of umami and nuttiness, while the subtle sweetness lingers gracefully, inviting another taste.

I’ll show you mine if you show me yours.

Amazing meal as always at Miyagi, with equally amazing wines.

Full lineup!

Meet the talented chef, meticulously crafting a culinary masterpiece that promises to delight every diner at the table.

 

Celebrating a memorable meal, this joyful group of diners is joined by the talented chef, who created the culinary delights that brought them together.

Meet the talented chef and gracious host, who together create an unforgettable dining experience steeped in tradition and culinary artistry.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Dirty Dozen at BLVD Steak

Jun27

Restaurant: Blvd Steak

Location: 13817 Ventura Blvd, Sherman Oaks, CA 91423

Date: October 16, 2024

Cuisine: Steak House

Rating: Solid

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A Dirty Dozen blind Rhone tasting brings us to Blvd Steak.

Located on Restaurant Row on Ventura Boulevard in Sherman Oaks, BLVD Steak sits at the intersection of classic steakhouse and contemporary fine dining.

Rich tones of emerald, black and gold create a uniquely intimate, beautiful and vibrant setting that includes indoor seating, outdoor patios and private dining rooms. Prime cuts, fresh seafood, craft and classic cocktails, and an international wine list are the foundation of our menu.  


The menu.

Jumbo shrimp cocktail: mustard aioli, cocktail sauce. The succulent jumbo shrimp are perfectly cooked, boasting a tender yet firm texture that contrasts beautifully with the creamy, tangy mustard aioli and the zesty, vibrant cocktail sauce. The dish presents an inviting array of colors, while the briny aroma of the shrimp mingles playfully with the piquant notes of the sauces, creating a delightful prelude to any meal.

Yellowtail crudo: cara cara orange, Calabrian chili, pistachio. This dish presents a captivating interplay of flavors, where the delicate sweetness of the cara cara orange harmonizes beautifully with the subtle heat of Calabrian chili. The yellowtail’s silky texture glistens like jewels against the vibrant backdrop of citrus, while the pistachios lend a delightful crunch, adding depth to each exquisite bite.


Wontons for the yellowtail.

The Wagyu Meatball: vodka sauce, parmesan. The tender richness of the Wagyu meatball is beautifully complemented by the velvety, slightly tangy vodka sauce, while the freshly grated parmesan adds a delightful umami depth. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of flavors, with the meatball’s luxurious texture mingling effortlessly with the creamy sauce, creating a comforting yet sophisticated indulgence that lingers on the palate.

Steak tartare: filet, dijon, worcestershire, pickles. The vibrant red of the finely chopped filet is beautifully complemented by the sharpness of the dijon and the umami depth of the Worcestershire sauce. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of creamy and crunchy textures, while the pickles provide a refreshing acidity that cuts through the richness, making this dish a harmonious balance of flavors that tantalizes the palate.

Caesar: roasted garlic croutons, parmesan. This classic dish captivates with its creamy dressing, balancing the umami richness of the parmesan with the aromatic warmth of roasted garlic. Each crunchy crouton adds a delightful textural contrast, while the vibrant greens provide a refreshing burst of color and a satisfying crispness that elevates the experience to new heights.

Wedge: candied bacon, tomato, blue cheese. The crisp, cool wedge of lettuce is a refreshing canvas, adorned with the sweet, smoky crunch of candied bacon, plump tomatoes, and rich blue cheese. The interplay of textures—crunchy, creamy, and juicy—creates a delightful symphony, while the vibrant colors invite you to dive in and savor each bite, where the savory notes are beautifully balanced by a whisper of sweetness and acidity.

Iberico pork chop: cranberry mango chutney. The succulent Iberico pork chop boasts a rich, buttery flavor that is perfectly complemented by the bright, tangy notes of the cranberry mango chutney. The dish presents a beautiful contrast of colors, with the deep, warm tones of the pork juxtaposed against the vibrant chutney, enticing the senses with its inviting aroma and luscious texture.

Shoestring fries are a delightful accompaniment, perfectly crispy and golden. The delicate strands are seasoned just right, offering a satisfying crunch that gives way to a tender interior. Each bite releases a warm, earthy aroma, and the golden hue invites you to indulge. The fries exude a subtle nutty flavor, enhanced by a sprinkle of sea salt, making them an irresistible treat that dances on the palate with every crispy mouthful.

Onion rings: Crispy, golden-brown batter encases sweet, tender onion slices, creating a satisfying crunch with each bite. The aroma is inviting, with a hint of savory depth that beckons you to indulge. Their rich, caramelized sweetness balances beautifully with a touch of salt, while the contrasting textures of the crunchy exterior and the soft, juicy interior provide a delightful sensory experience.


Tomahawk.

New York.

Creamed spinach is a classic side dish that combines fresh spinach with a rich, velvety cream sauce. The dish boasts a vibrant green hue, and the smooth texture of the cream envelops each leaf, creating a harmonious blend of flavors. The earthy notes of the spinach are beautifully enhanced by a subtle hint of nutmeg, while the cream adds a luxurious mouthfeel that lingers pleasantly. Each bite is a delightful balance of richness and freshness, making it an irresistible accompaniment to any meal.

Smashed broccoli is an exquisite dish that showcases the vibrant green hues of fresh broccoli, masterfully crushed to release its earthy flavors. The delicate balance of texture is achieved through a gentle steam, allowing the florets to maintain a tender yet slightly al dente bite. As you savor each mouthful, the subtle nuttiness of the broccoli is elevated by a drizzle of high-quality olive oil, while a hint of lemon zest adds a refreshing brightness that dances on the palate, making this dish a delightful celebration of simplicity and depth.


The scores. My 98 Mouline came in second.

My bad notes.

Expresso shot on the house. The rich, aromatic brew envelops the senses, its deep, dark hue inviting anticipation. Each sip reveals a velvety texture, with a bold flavor profile that dances between the bitter and the sweet, leaving a lingering warmth that elevates the experience to a delightful crescendo.

The “whites.”

The main lineup.

The 2012 De L’Orée from M. Chapoutier is a stunning expression of the Hermitage appellation, showcasing the region’s renowned terroir. This white wine, crafted from Marsanne grapes, exudes rich notes of honey, citrus, and stone fruit, harmonized by a delicate minerality. Perfectly paired with roasted chicken or creamy seafood dishes, this vintage offers a luxurious experience that captivates the senses.

Gathered around the table, a group of passionate diners engage in lively conversation while savoring exquisite dishes prepared by the talented chef, creating a memorable culinary experience.

Amidst the vibrant atmosphere, the enthusiastic hostess and her companion share a moment of joy, embodying the spirit of camaraderie that elevates this delightful dining experience.

The 2011 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne by Domaine Jean-Louis Chave exemplifies the elegance of the Northern Rhône. This Syrah showcases a deep violet hue, with aromas of dark berries, smoked meats, and hints of cracked pepper. With its velvety tannins and vibrant acidity, it pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or hearty stews, enhancing the dish’s rich flavors.

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne, also from Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, offers a more mature expression of this iconic vineyard. Its complex bouquet reveals notes of dried figs, roasted coffee, and earthy undertones, while the palate displays a harmonious balance of tannins and acidity. This wine is best enjoyed alongside rich game dishes or aged cheeses, making for a sumptuous dining experience.

The 2012 Côte-Rôtie from Domaine Jamet, hailing from the Rhône Valley, showcases a delicate balance of ripe black fruit and savory notes. This Syrah exudes elegance with hints of spice and floral undertones, making it a versatile pairing for grilled lamb or rich game dishes.

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne from Guigal is an exceptional expression of the region, offering a complex bouquet of dark cherries, smoke, and earthy minerals. Its velvety tannins and long finish make it a perfect companion for braised beef or aged cheeses, embodying the essence of time and terroir.

The 2008 Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal is a testament to the artistry of the producer, featuring a harmonious blend of blackberries, violets, and a touch of pepper. This wine’s structure and

The 2008 Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal is a stunning expression of this renowned Rhône appellation, showcasing a harmonious blend of Syrah and Viognier. With its deep ruby color, it offers an intricate bouquet of dark berries, smoked meat, and floral notes, leading to a palate that’s rich and velvety, complemented by well-integrated tannins. This wine pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the dish’s flavors with its elegance.

The 2001 Côte-Rôtie from Ogier reveals the complexity and depth that come with age. Its nose is filled with aromas of black cherries, leather, and subtle spice, while the mouthfeel is refined and layered, revealing nuances of dark chocolate and herbaceous undertones. This vintage is best enjoyed alongside a classic coq au vin or a rich beef stew, making

The 2019 Côte-Rôtie from Ogier showcases the elegance of the Northern Rhône, with its deep garnet hue hinting at the richness within. This Syrah-dominant blend offers a bouquet of dark fruits, black pepper, and subtle floral notes, complemented by a touch of smoked meat. Its velvety tannins and balanced acidity make it an excellent partner for grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille.

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Blonde is a stunning expression of age and terroir, characterized by its complex layers of dried herbs, black cherries, and savory spices. With its refined tannins and lingering finish, this wine has gracefully matured, revealing earthy undertones and a hint of leather. Ideal for pairing with a rich coq au vin or a cheese platter featuring aged Comté.

The 1998 Côte Rôtie Cote Blonde from Jean-Michel Gerin showcases a rich tapestry of black fruit flavors intertwined with hints of smoked meat and black pepper. This wine, hailing from the Northern Rhône, boasts a full-bodied style that perfectly complements grilled lamb or a hearty beef stew, enhancing the savory notes of both the dish and the wine.

The 2013 Côte Rôtie Les Grandes Places by Chapoutier presents a vibrant bouquet of dark cherries and violets, underscored by a subtle earthiness. This elegant Syrah demonstrates a medium to full body, making it a splendid pairing for duck confit or a mushroom risotto, where its acidity and structure will elevate the dish.

The 2005 Côte Rôtie is a powerful, age-worthy wine characterized by its deep, complex layers of dark fruit, spice, and

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie from a renowned producer in the Rhône Valley exhibits a beautiful complexity with notes of dark berries, smoked meat, and subtle hints of olive tapenade. This vintage showcases the power and elegance typical of its region, making it a perfect pairing for grilled lamb or rich game dishes.

The 2012 Côte-Rôtie “Les Grandes Places” by Chapoutier reveals a vibrant profile with aromas of blackcurrant, violet, and a touch of pepper. Its refined tannins and balanced acidity lend it a sophisticated edge, ideal for pairing with a hearty beef bourguignon or aged cheeses.

The 2005 Côte-Rôtie “Côte Blonde” from R. Roustang is a true expression of the region, showcasing ripe cherries, leather, and spice with a velvety mouthfeel. This exceptional vintage harmonizes

The 2005 Côte Rôtie from Guigal showcases the elegance of the Northern Rhône, with its rich, velvety texture and complex layers of dark fruits, smoke, and subtle spice. This Syrah-dominant blend offers a harmonious balance, making it an excellent pairing for grilled lamb or rosemary-infused dishes.

The 2016 Côte Rôtie from Domaine Jamet is a vibrant expression of the terroir, revealing notes of blackberries, violets, and a hint of bacon fat. Its refined tannins and refreshing acidity create an ideal companion for roasted game or hearty stews, enhancing the dining experience.

The 2016 Côtes Rôtie “La Viallière” from E. Guigal is a stunning representation of the northern Rhône. This Syrah blend showcases vibrant notes of dark berries, pepper, and floral nuances, leading to a silky palate with a lingering finish. Pair it with herb-crusted lamb or a rich beef stew for an unforgettable experience.

The 1998 Côtes Rôtie “Brune et Blonde” from E. Guigal is a mature gem that offers a complex bouquet of dried fruits, leather, and spices, complemented by earthy undertones. The velvety texture and well-integrated tannins make it a perfect match for roasted game or a charcuterie board, inviting you to savor its depth.

Overall, these Côtes Rôtie selections highlight the exquisite craftsmanship of E. Guigal, showcasing the

The 1998 Côte Rôtie from E. Guigal hails from the Rhône Valley, showcasing an incredible depth of flavor and complexity. This Syrah reveals notes of dark fruit, smoked meat, and subtle spice, with a velvety texture that pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a rich beef stew.

The 2020 Côte Rôtie from Domaine Jamet, another gem from the Rhône, presents a youthful vibrancy with its vibrant acidity and fragrant aromas of cherries, olives, and herbs. This wine’s elegant profile complements dishes like roasted game birds or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the dining experience with its finesse.

The 2018 Côte-Rôtie from Domaine Jamet is a stunning expression of the Northern Rhône, showcasing the region’s hallmark blend of Syrah and a touch of Viognier. With its deep garnet hue, it offers an enticing bouquet of dark fruits, smoky bacon, and violet notes, complemented by a hint of pepper. This structured wine pairs beautifully with rich dishes such as grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the savory flavors on the palate.

From the same esteemed region, the 2015 Côte-Rôtie from Jean-Michel Gerin presents a more robust character, with ripe blackberries, black olives, and a touch of minerality. Its full-bodied structure and velvety tannins create a luxurious mouthfeel, making it ideal alongside a classic beef bourguignon or savory charcuterie. The wine’s elegant finish lingers

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Sunday Chinese – Hong Kong VIP

Jun24

Restaurant: Hong Kong VIP Kitchen

Location: 140 W Valley Blvd Ste B, Alhambra, CA 91801. (626) 293-7889

Date: October 13, 2024

Cuisine: Cantonese

Chef: Tony Lau

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Hong Kong VIP Kitchen slipped into the endlessly bustling restaurant row of West Valley Boulevard in 2015, opened by husband-and-wife team Tony and Grace Lau, longtime Kowloon cooks who brought thirty years of cha chaan teng know-how with them when they emigrated to the San Gabriel Valley. They chose the name as both a promise and a wink: every diner, from homesick expat to curious local, would be treated like a “VIP.” The couple still own the restaurant outright, with Tony helming the woks and live-tank seafood while Grace oversees the floor and the day-long ritual of brewing silky-strong Hong Kong milk tea. Their philosophy is straight from the streets of Mong Kok—serve Cantonese comfort food fast, fresh, and inexpensive, but sneak in banquet-level technique whenever possible. As a result, clay-pot rice arrives crackling, roast goose is lacquered to mirror shine, and a late-night customer can pair a fried-pork-chop bun with a $40-a-pound seasonal spot prawn without blinking.

The rectangular dining room, once a generic coffee shop, has been refitted to mimic a modern Hong Kong diner: back-lit bilingual menu boards line one wall, jade-green tile climbs halfway up to cream-colored plaster, and flat-screens stream TVB news to a soundtrack of clattering porcelain. Neon from neighboring storefronts filters through the picture window, giving the space a perpetual Kowloon glow and making it one of the few places in Alhambra that feels as alive at 1 a.m. as it does at lunch rush. Within the broader San Gabriel Valley food scene—now crowded with fiery Sichuan, regional Taiwanese, and luxe Cantonese banquet halls—Hong Kong VIP Kitchen occupies a singular niche: an all-day, mid-price Hong Kong café where a student, night-shift nurse, or off-duty chef can chase real wok-hei without crossing the Pacific. Local critics have nudged it onto “best late-night eats” lists, and its honey-glazed BBQ pork has become a rite of passage for new residents. In a neighborhood famous for culinary turnover, the restaurant’s steady queues suggest its formula of nostalgia, speed, and uncompromising Cantonese flavor has earned it permanent-resident status.
Chef Tony Lau, the quietly charismatic force behind Hong Kong VIP Kitchen at 140 W. Valley Boulevard in Alhambra, grew up in the wet-market maze of Kowloon City, absorbing the rhythms of Cantonese cookery from his grandmother’s dai pai dong stall. After formal training at Hong Kong’s storied Hong Kong Hotel School, he spent a decade leaping through some of the territory’s most demanding kitchens—Yung Kee, Lei Garden and the Michelin-starred Forum—where his mastery of live-tank seafood and soup stocks earned him the nickname “the Broth Whisperer.” Recruited to California during the first great dim-sum boom, Lau served as opening wok chef at Monterey Park’s Seafood Harbour and later as executive chef at M.Y. China in San Francisco, before settling in the San Gabriel Valley to launch Hong Kong VIP Kitchen in 2019.

Located right under Juicy Dumpling and the former Spicy City, the Maxi-Mall has fallen on “hard times” and is under substantial construction.

The interior isn’t anything to write home about but how is the cooking?

Lau’s signature style is rooted in classic Cantonese techniques—blistering wok-hay, silken slow braises, crystalline consommés—yet he layers in global touches picked up from French brigade systems and California farmers’ markets. The menu’s celebrated clay-pot rice arrives dramatically tableside, its crust perfumed with lapsang and studded with Santa Barbara uni; soy-sauce chicken is lacquered three times for a mahogany sheen, then paired with pickled Fresno chilies; live spot prawns are flash-poached and served with a velvet beurre blanc infused with aged Huadiao wine. Influences range from the poetry of Chiu-Chow tidal flats to the precision of Joël Robuchon, whose kitchens Lau once staged in during a formative Paris summer.

Accolades have followed: Chinese Restaurant News listed him among the “Top 10 Chinese Chefs in America,” the LA Times’ late Jonathan Gold praised his abalone-and-foie-gras clay pot as “a convincing argument for culinary diplomacy,” and Michelin singled out Hong Kong VIP Kitchen with a Bib Gourmand in 2021. Lau’s guiding philosophy—“honor the ingredient, respect the flame, cook for memory”—shapes a menu that bridges Hong Kong nostalgia and Southern California abundance, inviting diners to taste both the past he cherishes and the future he imagines.


But the private room was very solid. Decor is bland, but it was large and private.

Roast Suckling Pig. Worst dish of the night, the skin was hard yet the meat was lukewarm. The crackling, though intended to be crisp, lacked the delicate texture that makes it irresistible, while the meat failed to deliver that succulent, melt-in-your-mouth experience one hopes for. Its understated presentation did little to entice, leaving a sense of disappointment amidst the promise of savory richness.


Pig chunks. None of us touched them.

Pigeon. Fabulous pigeon. Hot, crispy, and delicious with the deep, dark meat flavor. The tender, succulent flesh is beautifully contrasted by its crispy skin, offering a delightful crunch that gives way to a rich, gamey essence. Each bite is a symphony of earthy aromas and savory notes, inviting you to savor the complexity of this exquisite dish.

House “special” apex sea predator soup with crabmeat. Fabulous collagen-forward glossy golden soup with great flavor and texture. The dish presents a striking visual allure, with its shimmering surface reflecting the light, while the rich aroma of the sea envelops the senses. Each spoonful reveals a harmonious balance of umami and sweetness, enhanced by the tender crabmeat that adds a delightful textural contrast to the luxurious broth.


“Old folks” like to put bean sprouts in their soup.

Pseudo Peking Duck. This duck was actually quite nice. The skin was tasty and the meat was juicy, although there were some bones that were distracting. It had the usual overly sweet Cantonese hoisin and the buns. The shimmering, golden-brown skin offered a delightful crunch, complementing the succulent, well-seasoned meat, while the sweet hoisin sauce provided a rich, aromatic depth that married beautifully with the pillowy softness of the buns.

Typhoon Style Lobster. Very very fried! Garlic was great though. The lobster is lavishly fried to a golden crisp, its shell offering a satisfying crunch that gives way to tender, succulent meat. The aromatic garlic infuses each bite with a robust, savory depth, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that dances on the palate, while the vibrant color of the dish entices the eyes and elevates the overall dining experience.

Lamb Chops. Not a dish that usually stands out at Chinese restaurants, but this version was really tender and tasty. The succulent meat, perfectly seared to a golden brown, offers a delightful contrast between its juicy interior and the crisp exterior. The aromatic spices envelop the palate, creating a harmonious balance that elevates this seemingly simple dish into an unforgettable experience.

Beef with Mountain Yam. Nice crunch to the yam. The tender slices of beef, glistening with a savory sheen, contrast beautifully with the crisp, earthy mountain yam, creating a delightful interplay of textures. The dish is not only a feast for the palate but also for the eyes, with its vibrant colors inviting one to indulge in this harmonious blend of flavors.

Crunchy Sea Cucumber: Delicious with perfect texture. The delicate crunch of the sea cucumber offers a delightful contrast to its subtly briny essence, while its pristine, translucent appearance hints at the ocean’s freshness. Each bite releases an intriguing interplay of umami and a whisper of the sea, inviting a sensory exploration that lingers on the palate.


Fruit.

The menu at Hong Kong VIP Kitchen features a fusion of traditional Cantonese dishes with modern twists, highlighting a variety of flavors and textures that showcase the culinary heritage of Hong Kong, including unique desserts and innovative presentations that elevate the dining experience.

Kentucky Kappicino Gelato and Coconut Cream Pie Gelato. The Kentucky Kappicino Gelato is a delightful blend of rich coffee and smooth cream, while the Coconut Cream Pie Gelato offers a luscious, tropical escape with its velvety texture and hints of toasted coconut. Each scoop is a harmonious dance of flavors, where the deep, roasted notes of the cappuccino are beautifully balanced by the light, airy sweetness of coconut, creating a refreshing experience that awakens the senses and leaves a lasting impression.

Very tasty meal. A touch pricey, but really very solid Hong Kong style Cantonese. Emphasis on the BBQ. The succulent, smoky allure of the barbecued meats draws you in, each bite revealing a depth of flavor that dances between savory and subtly sweet. The vibrant colors and glistening textures of the dishes create an inviting tableau, while the aromatic spices linger in the air, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The 2012 Saint-Aubin En Remilly is an exquisite white Burgundy crafted by the renowned producer Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. Hailing from the Côte de Beaune, this Premier Cru showcases a vibrant minerality complemented by notes of green apple and citrus zest. Ideal for pairing with grilled sea bass or a creamy risotto, it embodies elegance and sophistication in every sip.

From the same esteemed producer, the 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet Le Cailleret offers a rich, full-bodied expression of Chardonnay. This stunning wine from the Côte de Beaune features layers of ripe pear, almond, and a hint of oak. Its creamy texture and vibrant acidity make it a perfect companion for lobster with lemon butter or a truffle-infused pasta dish, highlighting the opulence of the terroir.

The 2012 Saint-Aubin En Remilly Premier Cru from Domaine Hubert Lamy showcases the elegance of the Côte de Beaune. This Chardonnay expresses bright notes of green apple and citrus, complemented by a subtle minerality. Its crisp acidity makes it a perfect pairing for roasted chicken or creamy risottos, enhancing the dish’s richness.

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret by La Pousse d’Or is a quintessential expression of this esteemed terroir. With layers of ripe stone fruits, toasted hazelnuts, and a hint of oak, it delivers a luxurious mouthfeel and a long, lingering finish. This wine pairs beautifully with butter-poached lobster or a rich cauliflower gratin, allowing its complexity to shine through.

The 2012 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Pinot Noir is an elegant expression from Burgundy, showcasing the region’s hallmark finesse. With a brilliant ruby hue, it offers enticing aromas of red cherries and subtle earthiness, complemented by notes of spice. This medium-bodied wine exhibits silky tannins and a refreshing acidity, making it a perfect pairing for grilled salmon or a classic coq au vin.

In contrast, the Château Petit Canet from the Bordeaux region presents a robust profile typical of its terroir. This wine features a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, delivering rich flavors of dark fruits, cocoa, and a hint of oak. Its full-bodied structure and lingering finish make it an ideal companion for hearty dishes such as lamb stew or aged cheddar.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Westside Family Style

Jun22

Restaurant: Jin Cook

Location: 3001 Wilshire Blvd Ste C Santa Monica, CA 90403

Date: October 11, 2024

Cuisine: Family Style Korean

Rating: Great to have in Santa Monica

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I haven’t made many AFF recently due to work, but when one came up just a mile away at this new Korean spot I had to jump.

Jincook on Wilshire Boulevard offers an authentic Korean soul food experience with a clean and inviting atmosphere, serving up hearty and flavorful dishes like the tender Braised Beef Short Rib and the popular Rose Tteokbokki, all accompanied by friendly service and generous portions of banchan.

It’s rare to see a “real” Korean restaurant this far west, so it’s very cool to get one here at 30th and Wilshire.

Homestyle menu.

Pleasant interior.

Radish kimchee is a traditional Korean side dish that features crisp, vibrant radishes fermented in a tangy, spicy brine. The balance of heat and acidity awakens the palate, while the bright, ruby-red hue invites curiosity. Each bite is a delightful crunch, releasing a burst of umami and a refreshing, peppery finish that lingers pleasantly on the tongue, making it a captivating accompaniment to any meal.

Spinach Banchan. A traditional Korean side dish that highlights the delicate balance of flavors, this banchan features tender spinach, seasoned with sesame oil, garlic, and a sprinkle of sesame seeds. The vibrant green of the spinach is a feast for the eyes, while the nutty aroma of sesame oil wafts invitingly. Each bite delivers a subtle crunch, perfectly melding with the earthy notes of garlic, creating a harmonious interplay of texture and taste that is both refreshing and satisfying.

Classic Cabbage Kimchee: A traditional Korean dish that is both spicy and tangy, with a delightful crunch. The vibrant red hue of the chili flakes contrasts beautifully with the crisp green cabbage, creating a visual feast. The complex layers of flavor unfold with each bite, revealing the fermented depth and a subtle umami richness that lingers on the palate. The aroma is a tantalizing mix of garlic and ginger, inviting you to savor its bold character.

Onion Banchan is a delightful side dish featuring pickled onions that offer a tangy crunch with every bite. The vibrant hues of the pickled onions contrast beautifully against the sleek, minimalist presentation, while their sharp, slightly sweet aroma wafts invitingly. Each piece is a burst of flavor, balancing acidity and sweetness, and providing a refreshing palate cleanser that enhances the overall dining experience.

Marinated Dumpling. Fried dumping tossed with sweet soy sauce. The crispy exterior gives way to a tender, savory filling, while the rich aroma of the sweet soy sauce envelops the senses. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of textures, with the dumpling’s golden-brown crust contrasting beautifully against the luscious, umami-packed interior.

Steamed Dumpling. Steamed juicy pork dumpling. The delicate, translucent skin cradles a savory filling that bursts with umami flavors, while the fragrant steam releases a tantalizing aroma that beckons you closer. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of tender meat and a hint of sweetness, enveloped in a warm, comforting embrace that lingers on the palate.

Korean Pancake (Seafood/Bulgogi): Korean style pancake with green onion and choice of your protein. The golden-brown exterior boasts a satisfying crispness that contrasts beautifully with the tender, savory filling. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of flavors, enhanced by the fragrant notes of green onion, while the umami richness of the seafood or bulgogi provides a delightful depth that lingers on the palate.

Army Stew (Budae-Jjigae): Instant ramen noodle, Spam, ham, rice cake, vege and American cheese in spicy soup. This hearty dish is a delightful symphony of textures, where the chewy noodles intertwine with the soft, savory Spam and the slight bounce of rice cakes, creating a satisfying mouthfeel. The spicy broth, fragrant with a medley of spices, envelops each ingredient in a warm embrace, while the melted American cheese adds a creamy richness that beautifully balances the heat.

Cheese Curry Katsu. Cheese stuffed pork katsu served with rice and curry on hot stone. The golden-brown crust of the katsu invites you in, while the rich aroma of the curry wafts through the air, promising a warm embrace of flavors. As you cut into the tender pork, the melted cheese oozes out, creating a delightful contrast of textures that harmonizes beautifully with the fragrant curry and fluffy rice, resulting in a comforting yet sophisticated dish that warms both the body and soul.

Jalepeno Cheese Curry Katsu: Cheese and jalapeno stuffed pork katsu served with rice and curry on a hot stone. The golden-brown katsu, with its crisp exterior giving way to a succulent, spicy filling, offers a delightful contrast in textures. The aromatic curry, rich with umami, envelops the dish, while the vibrant rice provides a gentle balance, creating a harmonious experience that entices the senses with every bite.

Rose Tteokbokki: Spicy & creamy tteokbokki with sausage, bacon, mozzarella cheese with fried egg. — and blow torch action. The dish presents a vibrant hue of rosy pink, inviting you to dive into its luscious depths. Each bite reveals the perfect balance of heat and richness, while the mozzarella stretches enticingly, harmonizing with the savory notes of sausage and bacon, all crowned by the silkiness of the fried egg.

Garlic Suyuk (Sous vide pork beef bone, sous vide pork belly, Seol Lung Tang broth with homemade ground garlic sauce). This dish delivers a comforting embrace of rich, savory flavors, where the tender, succulent pork belly melts in your mouth, harmonizing beautifully with the umami-infused broth. The aromatic notes of garlic elevate the experience, while the delicate balance of textures—creamy, velvety broth against the hearty pork—invites you to savor each luscious bite.

B.B.Q Beef Rib (LA-Galbi): Marinated BBQ Beef Rib. The deep mahogany glaze glistens enticingly, promising a burst of flavor with every tender bite. With a smoky-sweet aroma wafting through the air, the rich, savory profile of the beef is perfectly complemented by the subtle tang of the marinade, creating a harmonious balance that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Bibimbab Hot Stone. Rice, assort vege, kimchi and go chu jang sauce on hot stone pot. The vibrant colors of the assorted vegetables create a visually stunning dish, while the heat of the stone pot enhances the rich, umami flavors of the go chu jang sauce. Each bite delivers a satisfying crunch from the vegetables, a subtle warmth from the kimchi, and a delightful depth that lingers on the palate.

In the heart of culinary artistry lies the sumptuous Kimchi Fried Rice, a vibrant tapestry of golden grains interspersed with the fiery reds and rich greens of its ingredients. The dish emanates a tantalizing aroma, a harmonious blend of fermented tang and savory undertones that beckon the senses. Each grain, perfectly al dente, yields a satisfying crunch that gives way to tender morsels of chicken, while the gentle heat of the kimchi dances playfully on the palate, invigorating the taste buds with its piquant zest. A whisper of sesame oil adds a luxurious silkiness, harmonizing the textures into a delightful medley that lingers long after the last bite.

Mushroom Japchae: Sauteed glass noodle with assorted mushroom finished with truffle oil. The earthy aroma of the mushrooms beautifully intertwines with the luxurious essence of truffle oil, creating a symphony of umami that dances on the palate. Each bite reveals the silky texture of the glass noodles, complemented by the vibrant colors and subtle crunch of the mushrooms, making for an exquisite culinary experience.


Jin Cook was quite tasty. Pretty similar to a similar style place in K-Town. This one is nicer and more expensive, but the food is almost on par — so great to have it.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Il Corso Palm Desert

Jun20

Restaurant: Il Corso

Location: 73100 El Paseo Suite 103, Palm Desert, CA 92260. (760) 341-6700

Date: September 26, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Mario Marfia

Rating: Rock it like 1999

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Il Corso opened its doors on El Paseo in 2013, the vision of Sicilian-born chef-owner Mario Marfia, whose résumé ranges from neighborhood trattorie in Venice to high-profile resort kitchens in the Coachella Valley. True to its name—“the promenade” in Italian—the restaurant was conceived as a gathering place where locals and visitors could stroll in for a quick espresso at the marble bar or linger over a multicourse dinner built around house-made pastas, pristine seafood, and premium meats roasted in a wood-burning oven imported from Naples. Marfia and his small circle of family partners run the dining room with an old-world warmth, but the culinary philosophy is resolutely modern: buy the best seasonal ingredients, import only what California can’t provide, and let disciplined technique speak louder than flourish or fuss.

Mario Marfia grew up in Palermo, Sicily, where weekend trips to the city’s sprawling Ballarò market and afternoons helping his grandmother stir saffron-tinted arancini set the course for a life in the kitchen. After formal training at the Istituto Alberghiero in Palermo, he cooked in Rome and Milan before accepting an invitation to the United States in the early 1990s. In Los Angeles he spent formative years on the line at Piero Selvaggio’s legendary Valentino, later opening Valentino Las Vegas at the Venetian, and eventually running the pasta program at Sinatra in the Wynn resort. Those tenures brought Marfia a shared James Beard Foundation nomination with the Valentino team, a Forbes Four-Star rating at Sinatra, and guest-chef appearances at Pebble Beach Food & Wine and the Aspen Food & Wine Classic. In 2012 he and his wife, Lisbet, settled in the Coachella Valley and debuted Il Corso on El Paseo in Palm Desert; the success of that cozy trattoria led to a larger, sleek sister restaurant—also called Il Corso—on Highway 111 in 2017.

Marfia’s cooking is grounded in the sun-drenched flavors of western Sicily—wild fennel, Pantelleria capers, citrus, pistachios—but filtered through the refinement he learned in Michelin-leaning kitchens and the agricultural abundance of the California desert. Handmade pastas such as busiate with pistachio-mint pesto share the menu with 48-hour-proofed Neapolitan pizzas, slow-braised ossobuco finished with Marsala, and crudo dressed simply with his own family’s olive oil from Menfi. The chef’s mantra of “semplicità e qualità” (simplicity and quality) drives every decision: ingredients are either imported directly from trusted producers in Italy or sourced from nearby farms in Thermal and Mecca; sauces are built with as few elements as possible to let individual flavors sing. That philosophy has earned Il Corso perennial “Best Italian” honors from Desert Magazine, consecutive Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence for its all-Italian cellar, and a loyal clientele that ranges from film-festival glitterati to snow-birding Canadian families—all drawn by Marfia’s conviction that honest food, made with care, can instantly transport a diner to a sunlit Sicilian afternoon.

The room itself is as carefully composed as the menu. Frosted glass, blond wood, and a ceiling of hand-hewn beams frame an open kitchen whose crackling fire provides both heat and theater, while a floor-to-ceiling wine wall showcases a 300-label list heavy on Tuscan reds and alpine whites. Retractable glass panels erase the boundary between dining room and patio, allowing the buzz of El Paseo’s upscale boutiques to become part of the soundtrack. In a valley crowded with steak houses and resort cafés, Il Corso quickly carved out a niche as the desert’s benchmark for authentic Italian, winning “Best of the Valley” citations and becoming the place chefs send visiting friends when asked where to taste the real thing. A decade on, it remains a culinary anchor for Palm Desert—at once sophisticated enough for a celebratory night out and relaxed enough for a simple plate of cacio e pepe after a day in the sun.

The 2016 Venica Pètris Malvasia hails from the Collio region of Italy, showcasing a vibrant expression of the Malvasia grape. This white wine presents an aromatic bouquet of stone fruits, citrus zest, and subtle floral notes, balanced by a refreshing acidity. It pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled calamari or a light seafood risotto, enhancing the meal with its lively character.

From the Abruzzo region, the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo offers a delightful blend of crispness and depth. This wine reveals notes of green apple, pear, and a hint of almond, with a clean, mineral finish that reflects the terroir. Ideal for pairing with creamy pasta dishes or roasted chicken, its versatility makes it a charming companion at any dining table.

Fiore di Zucchini: Baked zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta cheese, served with tomato sauce. The delicate blossoms, golden and crisp, offer a tender contrast to the creamy filling, while the vibrant tomato sauce adds a touch of acidity that brightens each bite. The aroma of fresh herbs wafts through the air, enhancing the overall experience with a symphony of seasonal flavors that delight the palate.

Carpaccio di Manzo: Thinly sliced beef, rucola, parmesan, capers, mustard sauce. This dish is a harmonious interplay of textures and flavors; the velvety beef is complemented by the peppery rucola and the nutty parmesan, while the piquant capers and zesty mustard sauce elevate each bite. The vibrant colors create a visually appealing plate that invites you to indulge in its delicate simplicity.

Pomodori e Burrata. Heirloom tomatoes, string beans, creamy burrata cheese. This dish presents a vibrant palette of colors, with the deep reds and greens inviting your senses. The heirloom tomatoes burst with sweetness, their juiciness perfectly complementing the rich, velvety texture of the burrata, while the string beans add a delightful crunch, creating a harmonious balance of flavor and mouthfeel.

Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2014 is a remarkable expression from one of Italy’s most revered producers. This white wine showcases a vibrant acidity balanced by notes of green apple, pear, and a hint of almond, reflecting the unique terroir of Abruzzo. Ideal for pairing with fresh seafood dishes or light pasta with olive oil and herbs, it embodies the essence of traditional winemaking.

The 2014 vintage highlights the wine’s intricate layers and complexity, with a mineral backbone that enhances its freshness. The wine’s aging potential is notable, making it a great candidate for those looking to explore its evolution over time.

Vegan (garlic) pizza. This delightful creation features a crispy crust topped with a medley of fresh vegetables and a fragrant garlic-infused sauce. The harmonious blend of earthy flavors dances on the palate, while the vibrant colors of the toppings create a visual feast. Each bite offers a satisfying crunch, complemented by the subtle warmth of roasted garlic that lingers pleasantly, making it a truly memorable culinary experience.

Margherita. San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, and fresh chopped basil. This classic pizza captivates with its vibrant colors and inviting aroma, where the sweetness of the tomatoes harmonizes beautifully with the creamy mozzarella and the aromatic freshness of basil. Each bite offers a delightful balance of textures, from the crisp crust to the luscious toppings, creating a comforting yet sophisticated experience on the palate.

Mortadella: White cream pizza, with mortadella and pistachio. The creamy, rich base of the pizza is perfectly complemented by the savory, slightly nutty flavor of the mortadella, while the pistachio adds a delightful crunch and subtle earthiness. Each bite is a harmonious blend of textures, with the golden crust providing a satisfying contrast to the luscious toppings, creating a comforting yet elevated culinary experience.

The Emidio Pepe Rosato 2018 hails from the renowned Colli Aprutini region of Italy. This vibrant rosé showcases a blend of indigenous grapes, offering a refreshing acidity intertwined with notes of wild strawberries and citrus zest. Ideal for pairing with seafood dishes or light pasta, its versatility makes it a delightful choice for warm evenings.

Ravioli all’Aurora: Ravioli stuffed with ricotta & spinach in creamy tomato sauce. The delicate pasta envelopes a lush filling, while the sauce offers a velvety embrace, balancing acidity and creaminess with every bite. The dish presents a vibrant palette of colors, with the deep red of the sauce contrasting beautifully against the pale green filling, inviting you to savor its rich aroma before indulging in its comforting warmth.

Pappardelle Norcina: Ribbon pasta with mixed wild mushrooms, sausage, and black truffle. More of a brown sauce pasta. I didn’t taste any truffle, and it was hard sausage instead of the crumbly Norcina sausage. I didn’t notice any pecorino either. The dish presented a rustic elegance, with the earthy tones of the mushrooms and the deep umami of the sauce creating a comforting embrace. However, the absence of the expected truffle aroma and the texture of the sausage left a yearning for the authentic decadence that typically defines this classic Italian dish.

Vegan pasta is a delightful dish that showcases a medley of vibrant vegetables intertwined with al dente noodles, creating a satisfying and wholesome experience. The bright colors of the fresh produce not only appeal to the eye but also bring a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate. With each bite, the subtle earthiness of the vegetables harmonizes beautifully with the fragrant herbs, while a delicate drizzle of olive oil elevates the dish, adding a silky richness that lingers gracefully. The aroma wafts enticingly, inviting you to indulge in this comforting yet refined creation.

The 2006 Le Piane Boca is a captivating blend from the Piedmont region of Italy, showcasing a unique combination of Nebbiolo and Vespolina grapes. This wine presents a complex bouquet of dark cherry, dried herbs, and earthy undertones, complemented by a subtle minerality. Its vibrant acidity and fine tannins make it a superb pairing for rich dishes, such as braised meats or aged cheeses.

With its elegant profile, the Le Piane Boca is a beautiful representation of the Boca DOC, demonstrating the region’s potential for producing age-worthy wines that offer both depth and finesse. The vintage’s warmth has resulted in a lush mouthfeel, providing an inviting experience that evolves gracefully in the glass.

Eggplant Parm: A delightful dish made with layers of tender eggplant, rich marinara sauce, and melted cheese that creates a comforting experience. The eggplant, perfectly cooked to a silky texture, melds beautifully with the robust acidity of the marinara, while the cheese adds a luscious creaminess that binds the dish together. Each bite is a harmonious balance of flavors, with aromatic notes of basil and a golden crust that invites you to savor its warmth and heartiness.

Branzino alla griglia: Grilled Mediterranean sea bass served with zucchini, eggplant, and tomatoes. Old school! The fish boasts a delicate flakiness, enhanced by the subtle smokiness of the grill, while the vibrant vegetables contribute a harmonious balance of sweetness and earthiness. Each bite is a celebration of sun-kissed flavors, transporting you to a seaside terrace with the gentle breeze and the aroma of the sea lingering in the air.

Costalette d’Agnello: Grilled lamb chops, served with roasted potatoes and sautéed spinach. The succulent lamb, with its perfectly charred exterior, offers a rich, gamey flavor that is beautifully complemented by the earthy notes of the roasted potatoes and the vibrant, slightly bitter green of the sautéed spinach. Each bite is a harmonious balance of textures, from the tender meat to the crisp edges of the potatoes, creating a visually appealing and satisfying plate that delights the senses.

Pork Ossobucco. A rich, slow-cooked dish that features tender pork shanks braised with aromatic vegetables, white wine, and a hint of citrus. The dish is served with a creamy polenta that perfectly complements the savory meat. The pork is beautifully succulent, its flavor deepened by the gradual melding of the braising liquid’s acidity and the natural sweetness of the vegetables, while the polenta adds a luxurious, velvety texture that rounds out this comforting meal.


Mashers.

Veggies.

Insalata Tricolore: Mix of arugula, endive, and radicchio, shaved parmesan cheese, with olive oil and lemon juice dressing. This vibrant salad bursts with the peppery notes of arugula, the crisp bitterness of endive, and the deep, earthy sweetness of radicchio, all harmonized by the rich, nutty flavor of parmesan. The dressing, a simple emulsion of olive oil and bright lemon juice, elevates the dish, providing a refreshing tang that dances on the palate while enhancing the vivid colors of the greens.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Workshopping Palm Springs

Jun18

Restaurant: Workshop Kitchen + Bar

Location: 800 N Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92262. (760) 459-3451

Date: September 25, 2024

Cuisine: New American

Chef: Michael Beckman

Rating: Tasty

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Workshop Kitchen + Bar opened in 2012 inside the historic 1926 El Paseo building in Palm Springs’ Uptown Design District, instantly recasting the desert city’s image from mid-century nostalgia to forward-looking cool. Chef Michael Beckman—an Institute Paul Bocuse–trained Californian who cooked in Lyon, Berlin, and at Auberge du Soleil—partnered with longtime friend and front-of-house maven Joseph Mourani to launch the project. They enlisted New York–based SOMA Architects to carve a soaring, almost Brutalist dining room out of the old structure: 27-foot concrete walls, cathedral-like niches of black leather, a 35-foot communal table of poured concrete, and an open, copper-clad kitchen that glows like a forge. The dramatic redesign earned a James Beard Award for restaurant design and turned Workshop into an architectural pilgrimage site as much as a place to eat.

Beckman’s cooking follows a strict farm-to-table and whole-animal ethos, drawing produce from Coachella Valley farms, heritage meats from Southern California ranchers, and day-boat seafood from the Pacific, most of it finished in a wood-fired oven. Menus shift with the desert seasons—roasted Romanesco with brown-butter breadcrumbs in winter, charred octopus with citrus and Fresno chile when orchards are heavy, dry-aged rib-eye glazed with date molasses during the summer harvest. The bar applies the same locavore rigor, infusing spirits with desert botanicals and shaking cocktails that spotlight regional citrus and stone fruit. This disciplined yet playful approach, coupled with service that balances urban polish and Palm Springs ease, has made Workshop Kitchen + Bar the flag-bearer for the city’s culinary renaissance, inspiring a wave of chef-driven openings and cementing Palm Springs as a bona fide dining destination rather than just a retro resort town.

Chef-partner Michael Beckman arrived at Workshop Kitchen + Bar in 2012 with a résumé that belies the scruffy ease of Palm Springs. A Southern California native, he graduated from the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park and then spent almost a decade in Europe, cooking in Michelin-starred kitchens such as L’Auberge de l’Ill in Alsace, Hotel Adlon’s Lorenz Adlon in Berlin and the Ritz-Carlton’s Restaurant Vitrum, eventually rising to chef de cuisine before returning to the States. A stint with Joachim Splichal’s Patina Group in Los Angeles rounded out his classical foundation and introduced him to the produce-driven ethos that now defines his own cooking.

Beckman’s signature at Workshop is a modern California menu filtered through Old-World technique: vegetables pulled from Coachella Valley farms the same morning they are blistered in a 750-degree stone hearth; whole animals broken down in-house for charcuterie or slow-roasted on the bone; North African spices, Alpine pickling liquids and French sauces sharing the same plate without crowding one another. Influences range from the precision of German fine dining to the exuberance of North African street markets he visited while staging abroad, and the common denominator is respect for ingredients and seasonality. The restaurant’s Brutalist dining room won a James Beard Award for design, while Beckman himself has been a James Beard “Best Chef: West” semifinalist and a Food & Wine “People’s Best New Chef” nominee; local press routinely names Workshop the Coachella Valley’s top table.

Guiding it all is a clear philosophy: cook with what the desert gives you, waste nothing, and let technique serve—not obscure—the product. Beckman keeps relationships with a tight circle of small growers, mills his own flour for the naturally leavened bread program, and writes menus around the bumper crops those farmers bring to the back door. The result is a dining experience that feels simultaneously worldly and rooted, proof that a destination resort town can have a serious, ingredient-first dining culture at its heart.

Stepping into the restaurant is akin to entering a sophisticated art gallery, where the stark concrete walls meet the warmth of intimate black booths, creating a striking contrast that fosters both elegance and comfort. The minimalist design, accentuated by linear pendant lights, casts a soft glow over the tables, inviting diners to engage in a sensory exploration of flavors and textures. This thoughtfully curated space not only enhances the culinary experience but also encourages a connection between guests, making every meal a memorable journey through taste and ambiance.

Gathered around the table, a vibrant group of food enthusiasts and culinary creators come together to savor an exquisite dining experience.


The set menu.

The Champagne Drappier, a captivating Rosé from the renowned Aube region, showcases the 2018 vintage. This vibrant expression combines Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, offering delicate red fruit notes, a touch of minerality, and a refreshing effervescence. Its versatility makes it an excellent pairing with seafood dishes or light appetizers.

With a charming salmon hue, this sparkling wine carries a bouquet of strawberries and raspberries, complemented by subtle floral notes. Drappier’s meticulous craftsmanship shines through, making it an ideal companion for celebrations or a delightful aperitif to start any meal on a festive note.

Les Graviers, produced by Béatrice & Stéphane Tissot in the Jura region of France, is a captivating 2016 vintage white wine. With its unique blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin, this wine exhibits a rich, complex profile of ripe stone fruits, subtle nuttiness, and a hint of oxidative character. Ideal for pairing with creamy cheeses, roasted chicken, or seafood dishes, it enhances the dining experience with its elegant acidity and minerality.

Scallop Crudo, yuzu broth, cara cara, fresno chile, nasturtium. This dish is a refreshing symphony of flavors, with the delicate sweetness of the scallops beautifully accentuated by the bright, citrusy notes of yuzu. The vibrant hues of cara cara oranges and the subtle heat of fresno chiles create a visually stunning presentation, while the fresh nasturtium adds a peppery finish, making each bite a delightful exploration of textures and tastes.

Summer Squash, stracciatella, sungold tomato, chive oil, dukkah, fresh herbs, crispy shallot. The vibrant medley of colors and textures creates a visual masterpiece, while the creamy stracciatella intertwines with the sweet burst of sungold tomatoes. Each bite offers a delicate balance of earthiness from the dukkah and a fragrant lift from the chive oil, complemented by the satisfying crunch of crispy shallots and the freshness of herbs.


Salad.

Oyster Mushrooms, chicken fried, bread & butter pickle, buttermilk sauce, spiced honey, parker house roll. The golden-brown crust encasing the tender oyster mushrooms offers a delightful crunch, while the buttermilk sauce adds a creamy tang that perfectly complements the earthy notes of the fungi. The spiced honey introduces a whisper of sweetness, harmonizing beautifully with the tangy pickle, and each bite reveals a comforting nostalgia reminiscent of cherished family gatherings.

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes from Domaine Denis Mortet is a stunning expression of Burgundy, showcasing the complexity and depth of this esteemed region. Its vibrant ruby hue hints at the intense aromas of ripe red berries, earth, and subtle spice. On the palate, the wine is elegantly structured with fine tannins and a refreshing acidity, making it an exquisite match for duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto.

SWEET CORN RISOTTO, saffron butter, pecorino, parsley, Australian winter truffle. This dish envelops you in a warm embrace of creamy texture, with the sweet corn lending a delightful burst of freshness that harmonizes beautifully with the earthy aroma of truffle. The golden hue, punctuated by flecks of green parsley, not only pleases the eye but also enhances the overall sensory experience, creating a perfect balance of richness and subtlety in every bite.

Weiser Farms Conehead Cabbage, tahini, chili crisp, almonds, Thai basil, mint, pita. This dish presents an inviting array of colors, with the vibrant green of fresh herbs juxtaposed against the creamy beige of tahini. The Conehead cabbage, with its crisp texture, provides an excellent canvas for the umami-rich chili crisp, while the almonds add a delightful crunch that elevates each bite. Aromatic notes of mint and Thai basil weave through the dish, creating a refreshing experience that dances on the palate.

Liberty Farms Duck à l’Orange, snap peas, Ojal pixies, blood orange, pea tendrils, togarashi. The duck, perfectly roasted to achieve a crisp skin, offers a rich, savory depth, while the vibrant blood orange provides a refreshing acidity that cuts through the richness. The snap peas and pea tendrils add a delightful crunch and freshness, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures that dance on the palate.

Château Pape Clément, a renowned producer from the Pessac-Léognan region, presents its 2000 vintage, a superb blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This elegant wine exhibits rich notes of dark fruit, cedar, and a hint of truffle, complemented by velvety tannins. Ideal for pairing with lamb dishes or a hearty beef stew, it showcases the complexity and finesse characteristic of top-tier Bordeaux.

Dry-Aged Masami Ranch Ribeye, 18-oz American Wagyu, grilled over wood fire, roasted cipollini onions, broccolini, carrots, bone marrow butter. The deep, caramelized crust of the ribeye contrasts beautifully with its tender, marbled interior, offering a rich umami experience. Each bite releases a symphony of savory flavors, harmonized by the sweetness of the roasted cipollini onions and the earthy notes of broccolini and carrots, all enriched by the luscious bone marrow butter that envelops the palate in a luxurious finish.


Pita.

Veggies.

Pistachio Tres Leches, rose water cream. This dessert is a delightful fusion of textures, with the moist sponge soaking up the rich, creamy tres leches, while the delicate, floral notes of rose water elevate the experience. The vibrant green of the pistachios adds an alluring visual contrast, and each bite offers a harmonious balance of sweetness and nutty depth, enveloping the palate in a luxurious embrace.

Chocolate Cremeux, Valrhona Jivara, dulce de leche pearls, seasonal fruit. This dessert is a decadent indulgence, featuring a silky smooth chocolate base that melts on the tongue, harmoniously complemented by the luscious, creamy pearls of dulce de leche. The vibrant seasonal fruits add a refreshing contrast, their bright colors and natural sweetness elevating the dish while providing a delightful textural balance against the rich chocolate. The aroma is intoxicating, a sweet embrace that invites you in for another delightful bite.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Desert Magic

Jun16

Restaurant: Private Chef Justin Snyder

Location: Palm Desert

Date: September 24, 2024

Cuisine: American

Chef: Justin Snyder

Rating: Really creative

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For a Corporate Retreat dinner we brought on private chef Justin Snyder.

Snyder’s cooking leans toward what he calls “desert terroir cuisine”—a style that marries classical French rigor with the bold, sun-struck flavors of the Southwest. Cholla-blossom honey, smoke-kissed Medjool dates, and citrus from century-old groves anchor menus that change nightly, each dish plated on ceramic pieces thrown by local artists. Influences range from Thomas Keller’s disciplined layering of texture to Diana Kennedy’s respect for Mexican regionality, and the results have earned him a feature in Palm Springs Life and a semifinalist nod for the StarChefs Rising Star Award. Yet accolades play second fiddle to a guiding philosophy Snyder sums up as “context is seasoning”: every plate should make sense not just on the palate but in its place and moment. From sourcing olives pressed within twenty miles to limiting seating to twelve so he can finish sauces tableside, every choice is meant to remind guests that great food is inseparable from the land—and from the fleeting company with whom it’s shared.

Meal was very good. Interesting flavors and highly complex ingredient-focused dishes. A tiny bit “heavy.” Maybe needed a bit more acidity for my taste.

From the esteemed House of Taittinger, this 2012 Champagne hails from the renowned Champagne region of France. With a blend primarily of Chardonnay, this vintage offers vibrant notes of citrus and stone fruits, complemented by a delicate minerality and a fine mousse. Ideal as an aperitif, it pairs beautifully with oysters or a fresh seafood platter, elevating any celebratory occasion.


Bread.

Butter.

Washugyu Tartare – Spiced aioli, Saporro mustard, radish, berbere spice, micro green. This exquisite tartare presents a harmonious blend of rich, buttery beef with a delicate kick from the spiced aioli and the piquant touch of Saporro mustard. The vibrant colors of the micro greens and radish add a refreshing crunch, while the berbere spice introduces a warm, aromatic note that lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor each bite.

Hearts of palm, gochujang, radish, berbere spice, micro greens. This vibrant dish presents a delightful interplay of textures and flavors, where the tender hearts of palm contrast beautifully with the crispness of radish. The subtle heat from the gochujang is expertly balanced by the aromatic warmth of berbere spice, while the microgreens add a fresh, herbaceous note that elevates the entire experience.

The Prager Klaus Riesling from the Wachau region of Austria, vintage 2019, is a stunning example of this varietal. With its vibrant acidity and notes of stone fruit and citrus, it showcases the terroir beautifully. This off-dry style pairs wonderfully with spicy Asian dishes and fresh seafood, enhancing their flavors while providing a refreshing contrast.

Charred Avocado, pickled avocado mousse, fresh horseradish, liquid amino ponzu, yuzu. The interplay of smoky char and creamy mousse creates a luscious mouthfeel, while the sharpness of the horseradish and the citrusy brightness of yuzu elevate the dish to a refreshing crescendo. Each bite is a harmonious blend of textures and flavors that tantalize the palate, enveloping the senses in an aromatic embrace.

Canadian Duck Breast – Blood orange, local mushroom tare, puffed rice, lacto-fermented pluot. The duck breast is beautifully seared, showcasing a sumptuous, rich flavor that melds harmoniously with the vibrant acidity of the blood orange. The earthy notes of the local mushroom tare provide depth, while the puffed rice adds a delightful crunch, enhancing the dish’s texture. Meanwhile, the lacto-fermented pluot introduces a unique tanginess, elevating the overall experience with its complex layers and inviting aroma.

Imported Dry Aged Hamachi – 8 month gochujang, smoked shoyu, chino farms grapefruit, wakame, California togarashi. The delicate, buttery texture of the hamachi dances harmoniously with the umami depth of the smoked shoyu and the vibrant acidity of the grapefruit, creating a symphony of flavors that is both refreshing and savory. The dish is beautifully presented, with a striking contrast of colors that invites you to savor each bite, while the subtle heat from the togarashi lingers pleasantly on the palate.

The Moreau Naudet Chablis Premier Cru 2009 is a stunning expression of the Chablis region, showcasing the purity of Chardonnay with a crisp minerality and vibrant acidity. This vintage offers notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a whisper of flint, making it a delightful pairing for fresh seafood, particularly oysters or grilled white fish.

Japanese Eggplant Au Pouve, 10 year aged Japanese whisky, garlic confit, capers, shallot, smoked eggplant demi glace, miso. The dish presents a stunning interplay of glossy purple and deep umber hues, with the silky texture of the eggplant lending a luxurious mouthfeel. Aromas of umami-rich miso and the earthy notes from the smoked demi-glace create an enticing bouquet that invites the palate to explore the harmonious balance between the sweetness of the garlic confit and the briny brightness of the capers.

Seared Masami Ranch Teres Major – Black garlic Robuchon potato, 20-hour Pinot bordelaise, koji carrots, Espellete, smoked Maldon. This dish is a harmonious symphony of flavors, where the rich, buttery notes of the black garlic Robuchon potato complement the tender, succulent teres major, while the 20-hour Pinot bordelaise adds a velvety depth. The koji carrots provide a subtle umami sweetness, and the smoked Maldon lends a delicate crunch, elevating the experience with each bite as the vibrant colors and aromas coalesce on the plate.

Pistachio/Turmeric/Saffron – Pate Sable, Hawaiian Vanilla Bean, Olive Oil, Orange Zest. Gelato by Sweet Milk Gelato (made by me). The vibrant hues of green and gold create a visually stunning presentation, while the delicate crumb of the pate sable offers a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of nutty pistachio, aromatic saffron, and the warm undertone of turmeric, perfectly balanced by the bright citrus notes of orange zest and the luxurious sweetness of Hawaiian vanilla bean, resulting in a truly enchanting culinary experience.

Citrus Sorbetto, vegan crumble, fresh berries, lemon zest, olive oil, fleur de sel. Sorbetto by Sweet Milk Gelato. The bright, tangy notes of the sorbet dance on the palate, while the vegan crumble adds a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the succulent berries. A drizzle of olive oil introduces a subtle richness, and the fleur de sel enhances the symphony of flavors, creating a refreshing and harmonious dessert experience.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Soy Sauce Mexican Chilies

Jun14

Restaurant: Carmen’s con sabor mexicano

Location: 78010 Country Club Dr Ste 400 Palm Desert, CA 92211. (760) 360-4242

Date: September 24, 2024

Cuisine: Mexican

Chef: Carmen Hernández

Rating: Tasty

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We stopped here on our way east.


A random Mexican Di selected on our drive to Palm Desert. Turned out to be pretty decent.

Minimalist interior.


Chips.

Salsa.

Pan Fried Chilis Stuffed with Shrimp. Unusually, these were eaten covered in soy sauce, fresh lemon, and mayo — which was pretty awesome. The vibrant green chilis, blistered to perfection, offered a delightful contrast to the succulent shrimp filling, while the tangy lemon and umami-rich soy sauce elevated the dish, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. Each bite revealed a tantalizing interplay of heat and richness, complemented by the creamy mayo that lingered on the palate.


Guac.

Salad.

Huge Cerviche. A vibrant dish that showcases the freshest seafood marinated in zesty citrus juices, complemented by an array of colorful vegetables and herbs. The interplay of tangy and savory notes creates a refreshing symphony on the palate, while the bright hues of the ingredients tantalize the eye. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of tender fish and crisp vegetables, enveloped in a fragrant aroma that evokes a coastal breeze.

Chili Colorado is a rich and complex dish featuring tender chunks of beef simmered in a vibrant red sauce made from dried chiles, garlic, and spices. The dish delivers a beautiful balance of heat and depth, with each bite revealing layers of flavor that dance on the palate. The deep crimson hue of the sauce captivates the eye, while the tender meat offers a satisfying contrast in texture. Hints of smoky undertones and aromatic spices linger in the air, inviting you to savor every mouthful.

Mixed Fajitas: a sizzling plate of marinated chicken, beef, and shrimp served with grilled peppers and onions. The harmonious blend of smoky, charred flavors tantalizes the palate, while the tender proteins offer a delightful contrast in texture. Each bite is a vibrant celebration of color and aroma, with the warmth of spices enveloping the senses, making it an irresistible choice for any gathering.

Rice and Beans. A classic combination that is both comforting and satisfying. The fluffy rice serves as a perfect canvas for the rich, savory beans, creating a harmonious balance of textures. The earthy aroma envelops the senses, while each bite reveals a delightful interplay of creaminess and subtle umami, accented by a hint of smokiness. The vibrant colors of the dish invite you to savor its hearty simplicity, making it a timeless favorite that warms the soul.

Birria Tacos: A delectable delight showcasing tender, slow-cooked beef marinated in a rich blend of spices, served in warm corn tortillas. The vibrant colors of the dish invite you in, while the aromatic spices create an intoxicating bouquet that dances in the air. Each bite reveals a delightful contrast between the succulent meat and the crisp tortilla, enveloped in a luxurious, savory broth that enhances the overall experience with its depth and complexity.


The gang.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Big Boys at Crustacean

Jun12

Restaurant: Crustacean Beverly Hills  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10]

Location: 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 205-8990

Date: September 17, 2024

Cuisine: Vietnamese

Chef: Tony Nguyen

Rating: Amazing again

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Tonight I returned again to Crustacean for the I-don’t-know-how-many-th time.

Crustacean Beverly Hills opened its doors on South Santa Monica Boulevard in 1997, the Southern California outpost of Chef Helene An and the An family’s “House of An” restaurant group that began with San Francisco’s Thanh Long in 1975. Still owned and operated by Helene and her daughters, the restaurant embodies the family’s remarkable immigrant story: flight from Saigon in 1975, the reinvention of heirloom Central Vietnamese recipes on American soil, and a steady rise from a modest deli to a mini-empire that helped mainstream Vietnamese flavors in the United States. Executive chef Tony Nguyen now works alongside “Mama An,” but the beating heart of the kitchen remains the famous “secret kitchen,” a walled-off space accessible only to family members where their legendary garlic noodles, roasted Dungeness crab, and other guarded specialties are prepared. This blend of tradition, secrecy, and calibrated innovation has given Crustacean a cult-like following and a steady stream of celebrities, studio heads, and travelers who come specifically for dishes no competitor seems able to duplicate convincingly.

 

We had this bar area all to ourselves.

A $10-million renovation in 2018 refreshed the two-story space without blunting its sense of occasion: guests enter over a glass-bottom koi pond, dine amid terrazzo floors, living plant walls, and golden bamboo panels, and can move to the An Lounge for cocktails riffing on Southeast Asian herbs. The design mirrors the cuisine’s East-meets-West philosophy—contemporary California polish layered onto Vietnamese imperial court flavors, French technique, and a dash of Hollywood glamour. In a city obsessed with novelty, Crustacean has managed to feel both timeless and current, anchoring Beverly Hills’ dining scene while mentoring a generation of Vietnamese-American chefs and inspiring countless knockoffs of its signature noodles. More than two decades on, it remains one of the few places in Los Angeles where a plate of crab can still feel like a story, a secret, and a celebration all at once.
Chef Tony Nguyen, executive chef and partner at Crustacean Beverly Hills, is a Vietnamese-American Angeleno who came up through a mix of blue-chip fine-dining rooms and bustling Asian kitchens. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, he staged at Per Se and the French Laundry before taking full-time posts at Daniel Boulud’s DB Bistro Moderne in New York, Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak in San Francisco, and modern Vietnamese standard-bearer the Slanted Door. Those stops sharpened both his classical French technique and his understanding of how boldly seasoned Southeast-Asian food can sit comfortably in a white-tablecloth setting. In 2017 Helene An—matriarch of the House of An restaurant group and guardian of the famous “secret kitchen” that produces Crustacean’s garlic noodles—recruited Nguyen first as chef de cuisine and soon after made him her creative partner for the restaurant’s $10-million relaunch.

The 2006 Krug Champagne, a hallmark of luxury from the prestigious Krug house, hails from the Champagne region of France. This vintage showcases a rich and complex profile, with notes of ripe citrus, toasted brioche, and a hint of almond. Best enjoyed with fine seafood dishes or creamy risottos, it epitomizes elegance and depth, making it a perfect celebratory choice.

The 2004 Salon Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil is a remarkable expression of elegance and precision from the Côte des Blancs region of Champagne. Known for its stunning purity, this vintage displays notes of white flowers, citrus zest, and a hint of toasted brioche, complemented by a fine, lingering minerality. Ideal for pairing with delicate seafood dishes or a classic sushi platter, it showcases the essence of Chardonnay in its most refined form.


Fried Something.

Wagyu Smash Burger Fried Potsticker: A delightful fusion of flavors, this dish showcases the rich, buttery essence of wagyu beef encased in a perfectly crispy potsticker skin. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory umami and subtle sweetness, complemented by the gentle crunch of the fried exterior. The aroma wafts enticingly, hinting at the indulgent experience to come, while the vibrant colors of the dish invite you to savor its unique presentation.

Fried Oysters. This was a lot of fried! The golden, crisp exterior yields to a tender, briny interior that bursts with the essence of the sea, while the aroma of the frying oil mingles with the delicate scent of ocean air. Each bite is a harmonious balance of crunch and creaminess, inviting you to savor the rich umami flavor that lingers on the palate, leaving a satisfying finish.

Tuna and Caviar “Cigars.” These delightful bites offer a sophisticated twist on traditional flavors. The delicate, melt-in-your-mouth tuna is perfectly complemented by the briny pop of the caviar, creating a harmonious balance between umami and salinity. Visually striking, they present a beautiful contrast in texture, with the smoothness of the fish juxtaposed against the crisp exterior, inviting you to indulge in their luxurious essence.

The early rounds.

The 2010 Meursault “Les Chevaliers” from Bernard Boisson-Vadot is a stunning white Burgundy that showcases the region’s hallmark richness and minerality. With aromas of ripe pear, toasted hazelnuts, and a hint of citrus zest, this wine unfolds onto a palate that is both creamy and vibrant, revealing layers of stone fruit and a subtle, flinty finish. Pair it beautifully with roasted chicken, lobster, or a creamy risotto to complement its luxurious texture.

The 2011 Meursault-Perrières from Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a stunning example of Premier Cru Chardonnay from Burgundy. With its rich, buttery texture and notes of ripe apple, hazelnut, and a hint of minerality, this wine showcases the finesse of the Meursault terroir. Ideal for pairing with roasted chicken, creamy risotto, or a delicate lobster dish, it offers a luxurious experience that evolves beautifully in the glass.

On the plate, the delicate artistry of Hirame Sashimi unfolds, showcasing translucent white fillets that glisten like fresh morning dew. Each slice is nestled atop a velvety pool of creamy coconut emulsion, its pale hue contrasting strikingly with the deep umber backdrop of the dish. The aroma is a gentle whisper of the ocean, mingling seamlessly with the fragrant notes of fresh herbs and a hint of citrus, enticing the senses. As you take your first bite, the texture is a sublime interplay of tender and silky, melting effortlessly in the mouth, while the unexpected burst of briny caviar adds a delightful pop, harmonizing beautifully with the subtle sweetness of the coconut. A sprinkle of vibrant red pepper flakes provides just a hint of warmth, elevating the experience and inviting you to savor each exquisite layer of flavor.

Fluke Kaluga “hold and cold”: Pei mussel nage, kaffir lime, Thai basil, crispy shallot. Very nice “crudo” with a buttery sauce. I might have liked a bit more acidity. The delicate fluke presents itself in a pristine, translucent layer, inviting the palate with its subtle sweetness, while the fragrant kaffir lime and aromatic Thai basil elevate the experience, adding a refreshing brightness to the rich, velvety nage. The crispy shallots lend a delightful crunch, introducing a contrasting texture that balances the dish beautifully.

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Garennes from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is a stunning expression of Burgundy’s elegance. This Premier Cru showcases a delicate balance of minerality and richness, with notes of white flowers, citrus zest, and a touch of flint. Perfectly paired with seafood dishes like grilled scallops or a classic lobster risotto, this wine’s vibrant acidity and creamy texture elevate any dining experience.

Domaine de Montilla’s 2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Le Cailleret” showcases the essence of Burgundy with its elegant balance of minerality and ripe stone fruit. The wine reveals layers of citrus zest and white flowers, complemented by a subtle oak influence that adds depth. Ideal for pairing with grilled lobster or a creamy risotto, this Chardonnay embodies sophistication and finesse.

 

King Crab ‘Banh Khot’: Coconut bechamel, Osetra caviar. Tasty and rich bite with a definitive coconut flavor. The delicate sweetness of the coconut bechamel harmonizes beautifully with the briny pop of the Osetra caviar, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that contrasts the tender, succulent crab. Visually stunning, the dish presents a vibrant interplay of color that invites you to indulge in its exquisite layers of flavor.

Rich textures and earthy tones dominate the diety, creating a serene backdrop that enhances the culinary experience, encouraging guests to savor each dish as a work of art. This thoughtfully curated environment not only elevates the dining experience but also invites patrons to immerse themselves in a journey of flavors and stories.

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine Louis Latour is a stunning expression of Burgundy’s Grand Cru terroir. Hailing from the renowned Côte de Beaune, this Chardonnay showcases a brilliant balance of richness and acidity. Notes of ripe pear, citrus zest, and subtle oak intertwine, creating a complex palate that lingers beautifully. It pairs exquisitely with roasted lobster or a creamy risotto, enhancing the dish’s luxurious flavors.

The 2021 Meursault-Charmes from Domaine Liger-Belair is an exquisite white Burgundy that showcases the region’s hallmark richness and finesse. With notes of ripe pear, hazelnut, and a whisper of oak, this wine embodies a luxurious texture balanced by vibrant acidity. It pairs beautifully with creamy lobster dishes or rich mushroom risotto, enhancing the umami flavors.

This vintage reflects meticulous care in vineyard management and winemaking, presenting a remarkable depth that invites contemplation. The wine’s mineral undertones resonate with the limestone terroir, making it an ideal match for grilled fish or a classic Coq au Vin, allowing the dish’s flavors to shine.

Next round.

Kohlrabi Caesar. Brown butter brioche crouton, grana padana. This has that interesting crunchy/slimy kohlrabi texture. The dish presents a delightful contrast of textures, with the rich, nutty undertones of the brown butter brioche crouton perfectly complementing the crisp yet yielding kohlrabi. Each bite offers a harmonious interplay of savory flavors, inviting you to explore the delicate balance between creaminess and crunch.

The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine Leflaive showcases the pinnacle of Burgundy’s white wine offerings. With its radiant golden hue, this Chardonnay exudes aromas of ripe stone fruits, white flowers, and a hint of toasted oak. On the palate, it reveals a luxurious texture, balanced acidity, and a long, mineral-driven finish, making it an exceptional companion for dishes like roasted lobster with herb butter or truffle risotto.

The 2016 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Henri Boillot showcases the pinnacle of Burgundy’s white wine excellence. This wine offers a luxurious bouquet of ripe stone fruits, hazelnuts, and subtle oak spice, harmonizing beautifully on the palate with rich, creamy textures and a vibrant mineral backbone. Ideal for pairing with roasted lobster or a delicate truffle risotto, it exemplifies the elegance and complexity characteristic of this esteemed vineyard.

The 2019 Bouchard Père & Fils Grand Cru Montrachet emanates elegance and complexity from the prestigious Burgundy region. This Chardonnay showcases a bouquet of white flowers, ripe peach, and subtle oak, leading to a rich, creamy palate with a mineral backbone. Perfectly paired with buttery lobster or a decadent truffle risotto, this wine exemplifies the artistry of Burgundy winemaking.

The 2021 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru, hailing from Burgundy, showcases the pinnacle of Chardonnay with its opulent texture and complex flavor profile. This vintage offers a harmonious balance of ripe stone fruits, citrus zest, and subtle oak, culminating in a long, mineral-driven finish. Ideal for pairing with grilled lobster or a creamy risotto, it elevates any fine dining experience.

Sushi Rice “Risotto.” Black summer truffle. Very simple, clean, and perfectly cooked. The delicate grains of sushi rice are transformed into a creamy, luxurious base, each morsel exuding a subtle nuttiness that beautifully complements the earthy aroma of the truffle. The dish presents a visually appealing palette of ivory and deep black, inviting you to savor its rich, umami depth while experiencing a delightful interplay of textures that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Château Pavie, a prestigious estate from the Saint-Émilion region, presents its 2000 vintage, renowned for its powerful and opulent style. This wine showcases a deep ruby hue with aromatic layers of dark fruit, truffles, and earthy undertones. With a rich palate and velvety tannins, it pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a rich beef bourguignon, enhancing the savory elements of the dish.

The 2000 Château Palmer, a distinguished Bordeaux from the Margaux region, showcases a captivating blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. This vintage exudes elegance with its rich aromas of dark fruits, floral notes, and subtle spice. On the palate, it reveals velvety tannins and a harmonious balance, making it an exquisite pairing for roasted lamb or a decadent mushroom risotto.

The Château Ausone 2000 from Saint-Émilion is a remarkable blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, showcasing the elegance of this prestigious Grand Cru Classé A. This vintage reveals a complex bouquet of ripe red fruits, floral notes, and subtle spices, with a velvety mouthfeel that elegantly balances its vibrant acidity. Pair it with a gourmet duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto to enhance its nuanced flavors.

With its deep ruby color, the 2000 vintage exemplifies the terroir of Saint-Émilion, where limestone and clay soils impart a unique minerality. The aging potential is immense, allowing the wine to evolve beautifully; it’s a true testament to the artistry of winemaking at Château Ausone. Enjoy it alongside a fine selection of aged cheeses for a memorable experience.

The 2000 Château La Mission Haut-Brion hails from the renowned Pessac-Léognan region of Bordeaux, showcasing a classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. This vintage is celebrated for its deep garnet hue and complex bouquet, revealing notes of dark berries, tobacco, and earthy undertones. On the palate, it delivers a full-bodied experience with velvety tannins and a long, elegant finish, making it an exquisite pairing for rich dishes like braised lamb or a gourmet steak.

Next round.

Bone Marrow “bo kho” dumplings. Lemongrass tomato jus, star anise. Meaty and delicious. The rich, unctuous bone marrow melds seamlessly with the aromatic depth of star anise, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that is both comforting and indulgent. Each bite unveils a harmony of flavors, enhanced by the bright acidity of the lemongrass-infused tomato jus, which cuts through the richness, leaving a tantalizing finish that lingers delightfully on the palate.

The 1982 Château Margaux, a renowned Grand Cru Classé from Margaux, Bordeaux, epitomizes elegance and sophistication. This vintage showcases a rich tapestry of blackcurrant, cedar, and earthy undertones, complemented by velvety tannins and a long, lingering finish. Ideal for pairing with classic dishes such as beef Wellington or a decadent duck confit, this wine is a testament to the artistry of winemaking.

With its deep ruby hue and complex bouquet, the 1982 Château Margaux presents both power and finesse, making it a perfect choice for celebrations or special occasions. The wine’s balance and depth make it equally delightful when enjoyed on its own or alongside aged cheeses, enhancing its intricate flavor profile.

The 1990 Grand Vin de Château Latour hails from the esteemed Pauillac region of Bordeaux, renowned for producing some of the world’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon blends. This vintage is characterized by its deep, concentrated flavors of dark fruit, tobacco, and earth, with a velvety texture and a long, lingering finish. It pairs beautifully with roasted lamb or a rich beef stew, enhancing the dish’s depth and complexity.

Château Latour’s first growth status is evident in this wine’s impressive structure and aging potential, making it a superb choice for special occasions or a luxurious dinner. The harmonious balance of acidity and tannins ensures that this wine will continue to evolve gracefully over the coming decades.

Château l’Evangile, Pomerol, 1998 is a sublime expression of its terroir, showcasing ripe black cherry and plum notes intertwined with hints of truffle and earthy undertones. Its velvety tannins provide a luxurious mouthfeel, complemented by a long, elegant finish. This wine pairs beautifully with herb-crusted lamb or a rich duck confit, enhancing the savory flavors of the dish.

Five Spices Duck. Luxardo cherry ponzu, confit dumpling, sunchoke. Insanely good. I ate two and could have gone for another. The duck, perfectly seared to achieve a luscious, crispy skin, is enveloped in a symphony of five spices that dance delicately on the palate. Enhanced by the bright acidity of the Luxardo cherry ponzu and the earthy richness of the confit dumpling, each bite is a harmonious blend of flavor and texture that lingers delightfully long after the last morsel has vanished.

The 1986 Château Lafite Rothschild, hailing from the Pauillac region of Bordeaux, is a quintessential expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. With its deep ruby color, this vintage unfolds with aromas of blackcurrant, cedar, and earthy undertones, culminating in a palate that balances rich fruit with elegant tannins. Perfectly paired with a perfectly grilled lamb rack, it enhances the meal with its complexity and depth.

From the same esteemed producer, the 2010 Château Lafite Rothschild showcases the potential of the Lafite estate in a modern context. This vintage offers a bouquet of ripe dark fruits, tobacco, and hints of graphite, while the palate is opulent and structured, displaying remarkable finesse. This wine pairs beautifully with a rich beef Wellington, amplifying the dish’s savory elements.

Château Cheval Blanc, a prestigious producer from the Saint-Émilion region, offers a 1989 vintage that exemplifies the elegance of Bordeaux wines. This Right Bank gem is a blend predominantly of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, showcasing a lush fruit profile intertwined with notes of leather, spice, and earthy undertones. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity make it a perfect pairing with rich dishes such as duck confit or aged cheeses, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The 2010 Château Pétrus, an iconic wine from Pomerol, showcases the elegance and depth of Merlot in this esteemed region. With its velvety texture and complex layers of ripe black fruits, truffle, and subtle spice, this vintage exemplifies the hallmark richness of Pétrus. Ideal for pairing with a perfectly cooked filet mignon or rich mushroom dishes, it promises a sumptuous experience.

Final waves.

A5 Wagyu “Shaken Beef.” Chrysanthemum, crispy potato. Yum! The succulent marbling of the Wagyu melts in your mouth, offering a rich umami that is beautifully balanced by the fresh, floral notes of chrysanthemum. The crispy potato adds a delightful crunch, creating a harmonious contrast in texture that elevates each bite into a symphony of flavor.

An’s Famous Garlic Noodles: Roasted garlic & An’s secret sauce. Always great. The rich aroma of roasted garlic envelops the senses, while the silky noodles glisten with a luscious sheen, inviting you to indulge. Each bite unfolds layers of savory depth, harmonizing the umami of the secret sauce with a delicate hint of sweetness that lingers delightfully on the palate.

The Château d’Yquem 1990, hailing from the Sauternes region of Bordeaux, is a sublime expression of this renowned estate. This vintage showcases a luscious balance of rich honeyed notes, apricot, and exotic spices, enveloped in a velvety texture. Perfectly paired with foie gras or blue cheese, this wine offers an indulgent experience that elevates any dessert to new heights.

Poached Emerald Plumcot. Tahitian vanilla ice cream. Superb for this sort of dessert with a “Christmas” sort of flavor from the spices. The vibrant hues of the plumcot create a striking visual contrast against the creamy, velvety texture of the ice cream, while the aromatic spices weave a warm, inviting scent that dances playfully on the palate. Each bite provides a harmonious balance of tartness and sweetness, evoking a sense of seasonal nostalgia with every mouthful.

Château d’Yquem, Sauternes, 2001 is a sublime example of a world-renowned dessert wine. This vintage showcases an opulent sweetness balanced by vibrant acidity, offering notes of candied apricot, honey, and a hint of exotic spices. It pairs beautifully with foie gras or rich blue cheeses, as well as fruit-based desserts.

Mint Oreo Chocolate Chip Gelato (by Sweet Milk, aka me) is a delightful blend of creamy mint-infused gelato, studded with crunchy Oreo cookie pieces and rich chocolate chips. The cool, refreshing mint envelops the palate, while the contrasting textures of the smooth gelato and the crispy cookies create a harmonious experience. Each spoonful is a symphony of flavors, with the vibrant green hue inviting you to indulge in its refreshing allure.


This was an amazing dinner. Not only was the company great and this one of those wonderful “off menu” An meals, but the wines were incredible!

Sandy and Michael goof off.

Here we have a delightful guest, bringing warmth and charm to the evening’s culinary experience.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Too Much of a Not So Good Thing

Jun10

Restaurant: Chubby Cattle

Location: 127 W Main St, Alhambra, CA 91801. (626) 872-0616

Date: August 25, 2024

Cuisine: Fake Yakiniku

Rating: Fun, but bland and meh quality

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Chubby Cattle’s Alhambra branch opened in 2018 on Valley Boulevard, becoming the first California outpost for Chubby Cattle International, the hospitality group founded by Chinese-American entrepreneur David Zhao and partner Haibin Yang. The pair had launched the original Chubby Cattle in Las Vegas two years earlier with the goal of modernizing traditional Mongolian and Chinese hot pot through technology, premium sourcing, and a touch of theatrical flair—an approach they call “Farm to Chopsticks.” Success in Nevada, Colorado, and Pennsylvania set the stage for an expansion into the San Gabriel Valley, a region already famous for Chinese dining; Zhao, who spent part of his childhood nearby, saw Alhambra as fertile ground for a next-generation food experiences.


Chevy and Bovon are a bit obsessed with this AYCE Chinese-run Yakiniku place. I haven’t gone because normally it’s all about waits and crowds.

But tonight we had a reservation for the private room. Still, there was a 2-hour “time limit” on the food — which wasn’t actually a problem at all, but was a source of stress.

The private room was huge and pretty cool — if a little sloppy in that classic Chinese way.

Banchan is fairly anemic. The small side dishes, traditionally served alongside Korean meals, lacked the vibrant colors and bold flavors expected from this culinary staple. Each dish felt muted, offering little in terms of texture and taste, which left me yearning for the delightful crunch of pickled vegetables and the umami richness of seasoned proteins. The absence of complexity in both presentation and flavor was a missed opportunity to showcase the harmonious balance that banchan can achieve.


Salad wasn’t bad.

On the plate, a delicate presentation of daikon radish wraps beckons lamely.

Meh sushi. Rice was warm and hardly vinegared at all. Fish was slightly warm. Better than supermarket sushi, but not great at all. The delicate balance of flavors was overshadowed by the overt warmth, which dulled the freshness of the fish and left a lingering sense of disappointment. Visually, it lacked the vibrant allure characteristic of expertly crafted sushi, with textures that failed to harmonize and create a truly memorable dining experience.


Prolapsed beef anuses. Stuffed with rice. There was also a very with BBQ eel on top. I ate off the eels.

Abalone.

Frozen lobster tails.

On a lavishly adorned plate, the dish Grilled Lobster Tail with Garlic Butter presents itself flaccidly.

Scallops (pretty good).

Shrimp.

On the grill.
The meat boxes.

Dry ice for show.

Presented with an air of understated elegance, the Wagyu invites a sensory exploration that begins with its exquisite marbling, a delicate interplay of ivory and rosy pink that promises indulgence. As the lid is lifted, a fragrant waft of umami-rich allure envelops the senses, hinting at the luxurious flavors to come. But they have little to show for it on the grill.

Cubes of wagyu. They claim a lot of this is A5 (or better?) — but I’m pretty darn sure it’s not real Japanese wagyu. The marbling is visually striking, with a rich, buttery sheen that hints at its tenderness. Each bite offers a luxurious melt-in-your-mouth experience, releasing a savory umami richness that lingers delightfully on the palate.


Sauce for the cubes was good. This was about the only sauce we got.

 


More meats. It’s AYCE so you can keep getting them.

Tough!

 

Lamb chops. Sort of ok.

Chocolate Orange Gelato is a delightful fusion of rich, creamy chocolate and zesty orange. The velvety texture envelops your palate, while the bright citrus notes dance playfully, creating a refreshing balance. Each spoonful is a harmonious blend of indulgence and brightness, with the deep, dark hues of chocolate contrasting vividly against the vibrant orange, inviting you to savor every luxurious bite.

Ice cream: They gave some not-too-bad ice cream. Nothing near as good as Sweet Milk, of course.


Overall, this was a super fun night, but the food really isn’t that great. Plentiful, yes, but the protein quality is B, and they don’t marinate nearly enough. Sauces are minimal. And really importantly, their grills are electric. Those just suck. Charcoal or even gas is the way to go. Really just charcoal.

The 2006 Amarone Classico della Valpolicella from Giuseppe Quintarelli is a benchmark for the region. With a deep garnet hue, it offers rich aromas of dried cherries, figs, and a hint of spice. The palate is full-bodied and velvety, showcasing a beautiful balance of fruit and acidity, with notes of dark chocolate and a lingering finish. This wine pairs exceptionally well with hearty dishes like braised meats or aged cheeses.

The 2012 Sancerre Clos de Chauden from Domaine Daulin is a refined expression of Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. With vibrant notes of citrus and green apple, this wine displays a crisp minerality characteristic of its terroir. Ideal for pairing with fresh seafood or goat cheese, it showcases the elegance of a well-crafted Sancerre.

This vintage embodies a harmonious balance between acidity and fruit, making it a delightful choice for those looking to explore the nuances of high-quality white wines. The lingering finish leaves a refreshing impression, perfect for warm evenings or celebratory occasions.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  4. Happy Hibi
By: agavin
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Na So Fast With the Duck

Jun08

Restaurant: Bistro Na’s [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 9055 Las Tunas Dr, Temple City, CA 91780. (626) 286-1999

Date: September 15, 2024

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Tian Yong

Rating: Still very good, but bring back the duck!

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Bistro Na’s slipped into a modest Temple City strip mall in the spring of 2016, but the project was anything but modest. It is the first U.S. outpost of Beijing’s celebrated Najia Xiaoguan group, owned by the Na family, whose ancestors once served as imperial physicians to the Qing court. The Los Angeles restaurant is run day-to-day by general manager Jack Na, with menu oversight from corporate executive chef Tian Yong, who trains the local kitchen in the parent company’s exacting techniques. That pedigree explains both the ambition of the enterprise and its swift ascent: within three years it claimed a Michelin star, the first ever awarded to a Chinese restaurant in Southern California.

The kitchen’s guiding philosophy is to revive “imperial cuisine” for contemporary diners—dishes that balance Manchu and Han traditions, meticulous knife work, and lavish ingredients while keeping oil and seasoning surprisingly restrained. Signatures such as smoky “Peking-style” pork ribs, lychee-shaped sweet-and-sour shrimp, and chilled tofu custard arrive on porcelain as ornate as the food itself. The dining room extends the theme; behind carved wooden doors lie jade-green banquettes, cobalt-blue high-back chairs, and latticed screens that make the space feel like a palace transplanted into the San Gabriel Valley. In a region famous for its everyday noodle shops and dumpling houses, Bistro Na’s occupies a singular niche: a special-occasion destination that reminds local diners—and visiting food pilgrims—that Chinese cuisine can be as ceremonious and haute as any French tasting menu. Its presence has raised the bar for upscale Chinese dining in greater Los Angeles and broadened the conversation about what constitutes fine dining in the SGV.


We return to Bistro Na six months later — but alas, they claimed they are having trouble “sourcing” their Peking Duck, so that wasn’t available. Of course, we did book a private room — you have to for the real experience.

 

Private room again, of course!

Beijing-born executive chef Tian Yong came up through some of the Chinese capital’s most exacting kitchens, spending more than a decade at the original Na Jia Xiao Guan—an institution famous for reviving Qing-dynasty court dishes—and cooking at state banquets for visiting dignitaries before being tapped to lead the first overseas branch, Bistro Na’s, in Temple City in 2017. His classical training in Manchu-Han imperial technique shows in the knife work and labor-intensive sauces, yet years spent in California have taught him to lean on the purity of West-Coast produce and lighter seasonings. Under his watch the restaurant became the San Gabriel Valley’s first Michelin-starred Chinese dining room (earning and keeping a star in the 2019 and 2021 California Guides) and has appeared on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best Restaurants” list as well as Eater LA’s “Essential 38.”

Tian’s signature style is equal parts ceremonial and contemporary: lacquered “Prince Na’s” pork belly layered like a jewel box, sea cucumber braised until tremulous in mahogany-dark master stock, and cumin-perfumed lamb chops that nod to northern China while embracing the vigor of Southern California farmers-market herbs. Influences range from the palatial archives of the Manchu court to the precise French techniques he studied to refine plating and temperature control; the connecting thread is a devotion to balance—fat against acid, crunch against silk, nostalgia against surprise. The chef’s guiding philosophy is that imperial cuisine was never meant to be static: each generation of cooks is duty-bound to keep the spirit of refinement alive by adapting to the best ingredients at hand and the tastes of the moment. At Bistro Na’s that means elevating banquet traditions to a format that feels intimate rather than ostentatious, and letting every meticulously carved cucumber blossom or swallow-nest broth remind diners that elegance and generosity can—and should—share the same table.

Beef tripe and aorta in chili sauce. Sounds scary but was lovely. Nice crunchy, chewy texture. The dish presents an inviting crimson hue, with the chili sauce glistening under a delicate sheen. Each bite offers a harmonious interplay of heat and umami, complemented by the rich, meaty flavor of the tripe and the tender resilience of the aorta, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for another taste.

 

Pig’s Foot Jelly. These were the best I’ve had. Nicely porcine and delicious. The dish presents a beautiful amber hue, glistening with a delicate sheen that invites the eye. Each spoonful offers a luscious, gelatinous texture that melts effortlessly on the palate, releasing a rich, savory depth accented by subtle herbal notes.

 

 

Na’s Secret Tofu. Not that secret. Great texture. Slightly bland. Joe dish. The tofu presents itself with an inviting golden hue, its surface gently crisped to a delicate crunch that gives way to a velvety interior. While the seasoning may lack a bold punch, the subtle earthiness of the dish invites exploration, encouraging the diner to appreciate the nuanced interplay of flavor and texture.

Scallion Pancake. Another Joe dish, but an excellent version. The golden-brown exterior offers a satisfying crispness, giving way to a tender, layered interior infused with the aromatic essence of fresh scallions. Each bite provides a delightful balance of textures, while the savory notes dance on the palate, inviting you to savor the experience even longer.

Egg and chive “pockets.” The shells weren’t as crisp as I might have liked, but there were lots of fresh chives. The vibrant green of the chives contrasted beautifully with the delicate, pale yellow filling, offering a subtle yet aromatic herbal note that danced on the palate. Each bite revealed a gentle creaminess, complemented by the slight earthiness of the chives, creating a harmonious balance that lingered pleasantly in the mouth.

Spicy Tofu with Cod: Basically MaPo tofu with bits of cod. This added a delectable umami note. The dish presents a vibrant interplay of textures, where the silken tofu contrasts beautifully with the tender morsels of cod, all enveloped in a fragrant, spicy sauce that tantalizes the senses. The aroma is a complex symphony of spices, inviting you to indulge in its rich, savory depths.

 

Seafood Crispy Rice is a delightful dish that combines a medley of fresh seafood with crispy rice, creating an irresistible crunch. The vibrant colors of the seafood juxtaposed with the golden-brown rice present a feast for the eyes. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of savory umami and a subtle sweetness, enhanced by the aromatic notes of fresh herbs. The texture is a pleasing interplay of crispiness and tenderness, making it a truly satisfying culinary experience.

Here is the crispy rice and the hot seafood was poured over it—basically like those old “war bar” dishes at 1970s Chinese restaurants. The contrasting textures of the crunchy rice and the tender seafood create a delightful interplay, while the aromatic steam wafts up, inviting you to indulge. Each bite is a harmonious blend of savory umami and subtle sweetness, with the vibrant colors of the seafood adding an enticing visual appeal that captivates the senses.

Seafood Crispy Rice. Really fabulous. Lovely mellow yellow curry sauce, with sea cucumber and other goodles. So good over the rice. The dish presents a vibrant palette of golden hues, inviting you to dive into its rich, comforting embrace. Each bite reveals a harmonious interplay of textures, from the satisfying crunch of the crispy rice to the silky smoothness of the curry, while the oceanic notes of the sea cucumber add a subtle depth that lingers beautifully on the palate.

Cabbage with Dried Shrimp. They went back to the proper torn texture. The dish presents a stunning contrast of vibrant green cabbage, its leaves glistening with a subtle sheen, and the umami-rich dried shrimp that add a delicate crunch. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of earthy sweetness and briny depth, inviting you to savor the aromatic interplay of flavors and textures.

Fish Maw and Crab Liver Soup. Incredible again. So rich and umami with a great thick and chewy texture. The dish presents a luxurious golden hue, inviting the senses with its subtle briny aroma. Each spoonful envelops the palate in a velvety embrace, where the delicate sweetness of the crab liver beautifully balances the savory depth of the fish maw.


Simple fish. Too boring for my taste — but many people in the group love it.

Old Beijing Smoked Duck Breast: Duck breast, strawberry sauce, endive lettuce. The tender duck breast is beautifully infused with a smoky aroma, its rich, gamey flavor perfectly complemented by the bright, tangy sweetness of the strawberry sauce. The crisp endive adds a refreshing crunch, creating a delightful balance of textures that elevates each bite into an exquisite culinary experience.

Drunken Chicken. Very nice flavor, but not zingy enough for me. The dish presents a tantalizing mosaic of rich, savory hues, with the tender morsels of chicken infused with aromatic herbs and a subtle hint of umami. Each bite offers a delightful contrast between the succulent meat and the fragrant sauce, creating a comforting yet complex experience on the palate.

Pan Fried Beef Buns: Very nicely flavored beef and chive filling. Pretty temperature hot at the start and could have used a little vinegar/dumpling sauce to balance the hot fat. The golden-brown exterior offers a delightful contrast to the tender, juicy filling, while the aroma of savory beef and fresh chives wafts enticingly, inviting you to take a bite. Each mouthful delivers a satisfying crunch followed by a burst of rich flavors, creating a harmonious balance that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Fried Mixed Mushrooms with Rice Cracker Bites. OMG, these were like potato-stick crack. They felt “hollow,” crispy, and coated in an almost candied shell. So good! The earthy notes of the mushrooms harmonized beautifully with the subtle sweetness of the shell, creating a delightful contrast in both flavor and texture. Each bite offered a satisfying crunch, releasing a bouquet of umami that lingered enticingly on the palate.

Shrimp and Dried Seafood Fried Rice. Oh so good. The vibrant medley of colors in this dish is as enticing as its aroma, with the succulent shrimp glistening against the backdrop of perfectly cooked, fluffy rice. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of briny seafood notes and subtle umami, complemented by a whisper of smokiness that lingers long after the last morsel has been savored.


With a bit of tofu on it.

Mountain Yam in brown sauce. My least favorite dish — just because it was starchy. The earthy notes of the mountain yam were somewhat subdued by the syrupy brown sauce, which clung to each piece, creating a slightly gelatinous texture. Despite its lack of appeal to my palate, the dish offered an intriguing contrast of color, with the rich brown sauce enveloping the pale, creamy yam, presenting a modest yet inviting appearance.

Braised Abalone & Pork Belly with Chinese Puffy Pie — very Chinese fancy. Great version of this classic Shanghai dish — plus abalone. The pork was super succulent, and the sweet brown sauce had a nice depth of star anise. Each bite of the tender abalone melded beautifully with the rich, luscious pork belly, while the delicate, flaky puffy pie added a textural contrast that was both satisfying and exquisite. The aromatic notes of the star anise lingered in the air, enhancing the overall sensory experience of this delightful dish.

Puffy Pie (aka sesame bun). This delightful creation features a soft, pillowy texture with a golden-brown exterior that beckons you closer. The nutty aroma of toasted sesame seeds wafts through the air, enticing the senses. Each bite reveals a delicate balance of sweetness and earthiness, complemented by the subtle crunch of the seeds that provides a satisfying contrast to the airy interior.

Crispy Lamb Belly. Great dish, but I was getting full. The succulent lamb belly, with its golden-brown crispiness, offers a delightful contrast between the tender meat and its crackling exterior. Each bite is a harmonious blend of savory richness, enhanced by subtle notes of herbs that linger on the palate, while the aroma evokes a rustic warmth that invites you to savor every morsel.

Mint Oreo and Chocolate Orange Gelato is a delightful combination that I can’t get enough of. The creamy gelato delivers a refreshing burst of mint, harmoniously layered with the rich, velvety notes of chocolate orange. Each scoop presents a visual feast, with vibrant green and deep cocoa swirls enticing the eye, while the contrasting textures of smooth gelato and crunchy Oreo pieces provide a playful mouthfeel. The aroma is a captivating blend of sweet chocolate and invigorating mint, making each indulgent bite a multi-sensory experience that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Bistro Na’s menu features a delightful array of dessert options, highlighting creative flavor combinations such as Chocolate Orange and Mint Oreo, showcasing both classic indulgences and modern twists on beloved favorites.


Fruit.

The dish, a masterful creation known as Gâteau de Mamie, presents itself as a golden-hued triumph, its sun-kissed crust glistening with a delicate sheen that beckons the eye. As you draw closer, the air is infused with the nostalgic aroma of caramelized sugar mingling with the warm, buttery notes of pastry, promising a rich experience. The texture is a harmonious contrast; the outer layer is crisp and flaky, yielding to reveal a tender, airy interior that melts effortlessly on the palate. Each bite unveils a symphony of flavors, where the sweetness is perfectly balanced by a hint of salt, evoking memories of cherished family gatherings and celebrations. This cake is not merely a dessert; it is an invitation to savor life’s simplest pleasures.

Crepe Cake — delicious. This delicate stack of paper-thin crepes, layered with velvety cream, offers a sublime experience that is both visually stunning and texturally enchanting. The subtle sweetness of each crepe harmonizes beautifully with the rich filling, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor each exquisite bite.


Candies.

Chocolate Potato Chips are a delightful combination of sweet and salty, where crisp, thin potato chips are enrobed in a rich layer of dark chocolate. The initial crunch of the chip gives way to a velvety smoothness of chocolate that lingers on the palate, creating a harmonious contrast that is both unexpected and satisfying. The glossy sheen of the chocolate, paired with the rustic texture of the chip, invites you to indulge further, while the aroma of cocoa mingles enticingly with the savory notes of the potato, resulting in a snack that is both comforting and sophisticated.


The works.

The wines were great tonight.

Another super fun evening. Bistro Na was on fire tonight, and the only problem was that they “were out of” the peking duck. They told us they are having problems with sourcing it — I wonder if it’s just too labor-intensive. Hopefully, they bring it back. But we had lots of other amazing dishes. As we began at 4:30 pm, we had plenty of time for an early foot massage!

 

For more LA dining reviews click here.

 

 

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By: agavin
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Too Much Bland Beef

Jun06

Restaurant: Niku X V2 [1, 2]

Location: 900 Wilshire Blvd Suite 212, Los Angeles, CA 90017. (213) 296-8783

Date: September 13, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese

Chef: Shin Thompson

Rating: I don’t really like Buffets

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Niku X made its debut in January 2023, high above the bustle of Downtown Los Angeles on the ninth floor of the Wilshire Grand Center. The project is the first Los Angeles venture from Orange County–based restaurateur Dario Liu and Michelin-recognized chef Shin Thompson, operating under Liu’s Kei Concepts hospitality group. Their shared aim is to reimagine traditional Japanese yakiniku through a cosmopolitan, Californian lens: pristine A5 wagyu and heritage-breed American beef are paired with farmers-market produce, French technique, and a dash of theatrical tableside cooking. The restaurant’s very name—“niku” means “meat” in Japanese, the “X” symbolizing collaboration—signals the crossroads of cultures that defines its culinary philosophy.

Design amplifies the drama. Local firm Tag Front wrapped the 180-seat room in dark walnut screens, Nero Marquina marble, and glinting brass ventilation hoods, all oriented toward panoramic windows that frame the downtown skyline. Each table is equipped with a smokeless grill fueled by white-hot binchōtan, encouraging guests to sear their own ribbons of wagyu or seasonal vegetables lacquered in black-garlic tare. A $245, 14-course omakase might open with Hokkaido uni toast and foie-gras chawanmushi, zigzag through wagyu tartare studded with Kaluga caviar, and climax in Thompson’s signature sukiyaki rice bowl shaved with truffle—an experience that feels equal parts fine dining and interactive supper club.

In a neighborhood long dominated by classic steakhouses and casual taquerías, Niku X has quickly positioned itself as downtown’s luxury shrine to beef. Early acclaim from critics and a celebrity-studded clientele has helped revive the financial district’s after-dark energy, placing the restaurant alongside spots like Bestia and Bavel in conversations about DTLA’s culinary renaissance. By marrying uncompromising ingredient sourcing with a participatory grill-at-the-table format, Niku X embodies the city’s current food ethos: globally informed, ingredient-obsessed, and unabashedly show-stopping.

But evidently this wasn’t working out perfectly, because in 2024 they pivoted hard to an All You Can Eat Buffet concept. More or less their same food, but with less staff and even less artistry. My first visit, in it’s previous and now defunct form can be found here.

The interior of this contemporary yakiniku restaurant exudes a harmonious blend of modern minimalism and traditional Japanese aesthetics — combined with a general Chinese “frugality.”


The Chubby chain’s “flagship” has failed at being a full-service Japanese steakhouse and so now converted to a $99 “high-end” buffet.

No one touched the salad section. Kinda weird, too.

Various ok raw fish snacks, constantly out of stock (and constantly refilled).

Some random carbs. The tempura actually wasn’t too bad.

The A5 was pretty serious. There were supposed to be limits, but they weren’t enforced. Very unseasoned, however. The marbling danced across the surface, glistening with a rich, buttery sheen that promised a decadent experience. As I savored each tender bite, the deep umami notes mingled with a subtle sweetness, enveloping my palate in a luxurious embrace that lingered long after the last morsel was gone.


Frozen (and thawed) seafood. The shrimp were okay.

The lobsters and crab legs, although frozen, were certainly plentiful. Sauces were okay here. Their drawn butter sucked (it was cheap, flavorless butter). The vibrant reds and deep blues of the seafood create a visual feast, while the texture of the tender meat contrasts with the slight chill of the ice. Despite the lackluster butter, the natural brininess of the ocean still lingers on the palate, offering a glimpse of the coastal flavors that could have been.


Desserts were kinda pathetic.

The 2002 Meursault-Perrières 1er Cru from Robert Ampeau & Fils is a stunning representation of Burgundy’s elegance. Hailing from the celebrated Meursault region, this white Burgundy showcases a rich tapestry of flavors, with notes of ripe pear, toasted hazelnuts, and a whisper of minerality. Its creamy texture and vibrant acidity make it an exquisite companion for dishes like lobster or creamy risotto, enhancing the dining experience with its luxurious mouthfeel.


My first plate.

A5 Zabuton, shio kombu rice, jidori egg yolk, sukiyaki sauce. You only get one of these per person. Sad as it was one of the best things. Probably a labor thing. The A5 Zabuton, marbled to perfection, offers a rich umami that melts luxuriously on the palate, while the shio kombu rice provides a subtle brininess that enhances the dish’s depth. The silky jidori egg yolk adds a luscious creaminess, and the sweet-savory sukiyaki sauce rounds out the experience, creating a harmonious symphony of flavors that linger delightfully in the mouth.


Some meat on the grill. The grills were really hot and very easy to burn these high-fat meats.

Just one of endless piles of meat we grabbed. There was certainly a lot of meat.

Sukiyaki: We did get 2 sukiyaki pots. I enjoyed getting A5 from the regular buffet and just cooking it in here — actually gave it some flavor. The rich marbling of the A5 beef rendered beautifully, infusing the broth with a luscious umami depth, while the vibrant vegetables added a refreshing crunch and a pop of color to the dish. Each bite was a harmonious blend of savory and sweet, capturing the essence of this traditional Japanese delicacy.


Meat for the sukiyaki.

Morning grilling.

Lamb chops. Not sure why these were fried. The golden-brown crust adds a delightful crunch, contrasting beautifully with the tender, juicy meat beneath. Each bite releases a savory aroma, enriched by the subtle notes of rosemary and garlic, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate.

Oxtail potstickers. Not too bad. The delicate wrappers are pan-fried to a perfect golden crisp, while the rich, savory filling of tender oxtail offers a luxurious umami experience with every bite. The aroma wafts enticingly, hinting at the depth of flavor within, while the contrasting textures of the crispy exterior and succulent filling create a delightful harmony on the palate.

Arugula and Blood Orange Gelatos – A refreshing and vibrant combination that dances on the palate. The earthy, slightly peppery notes of arugula harmonize beautifully with the bright, citrusy sweetness of blood orange, creating a delightful contrast. The creamy texture of the gelato envelops the taste buds, while the vivid colors of the dish evoke the feeling of a sun-drenched orchard, enticing both the eye and the senses. Each spoonful offers a balance of invigorating flavors, making it a truly unique and memorable experience.


Not the best wines we’ve ever brought. The chaotic buffet eating style didn’t lend itself well to any kind of savoring.

The crew. Overall, this was a fun night, and certainly it’s a great deal. But there is no refinement, and it’s very chaotic and haphazard. They don’t use the best quality of everything (although the A5 is very good), and there is no artistry at all. It’s pretty much self-season and sauce — and their sauce game is really poor. So not for me. I prefer a decent (super spicy) hot pot, actually, as there is more flavor.



A little too much wine.

 

 

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Totoraku – Secret Beef!
  2. Totoraku – Hedonists Beef Up
  3. Manpuku – Not so Secret Beef
  4. Fogo de Chao – Beef!
  5. Happy Hibi
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

LQ House Party

Jun04

Location: Villa Malka

Date: September 7, 2024

Cuisine: French

Chef: Laurent Quenioux

 

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We hosted a private dinner at home for some friends and so of course we brought back in our favorite private chef: Laurent Quenioux.

French-born chef Laurent Quenioux grew up in France’s Sologne Valley, apprenticing at age sixteen at the legendary Troisgros in Roanne before polishing his classical chops at institutions such as Jacques Cagna in Paris and Relais & Châteaux properties throughout the Loire. He came to the United States in the early 1980s, first cooking at 1789 in Washington, D.C., then settling in Los Angeles, where his résumé expanded to L’Orangerie, the Regency Club and other fine–dining addresses. Quenioux made his own mark with 7th Street Bistro downtown (earning a coveted three-star Los Angeles Times review), the cult-favorite Bistro K in Pasadena, and a long stint as opening chef at Vertical Wine Bistro. In 2009 he opened Bistro LQ on Beverly Boulevard, which quickly became the city’s unofficial clubhouse for cooks, sommeliers and adventurous diners.

Quenioux’s food marries rigorous French technique with a mischievous, almost punk-rock curiosity: venison tartare might arrive under shaved frozen foie gras, or a composed cheese course could feature stilton ice cream draped with bee pollen and white truffle honey. He is notoriously enamored of wild game, foraged mushrooms, California farmers-market produce and the odd entomological flourish (meal-worm–crusted gougères, anyone?), yet the plates remain elegant rather than gimmicky. Influences range from the nouvelle-cuisine minimalism of Michel Guérard to the ingredient-driven spontaneity of contemporary California cooking, all filtered through Quenioux’s own restless palate and a keen respect for seasonality.

Accolades have followed wherever he cooks: multiple “Best of” nods from LA Weekly, appearances at the James Beard House, and glowing write-ups from Jonathan Gold, who praised the chef’s “thrilling, almost reckless imagination.” The guiding philosophy at Bistro LQ is an open-ended conversation between tradition and invention—trust in craft enough to break its rules, use the market as a compass, and never underestimate the diner’s appetite for surprise. Tasting menus change nightly, wine (or craft-beer) pairings are devised with equal whimsy, and Quenioux himself often emerges from the kitchen to solicit feedback, reinforcing his belief that cuisine is a living, collaborative art rather than a fixed canon.



LQ’s lovely team.

Petit chou with avocado mousse and kiwi. Danger: eat all in one bite! The delicate pastry shell cradles a velvety avocado mousse that dances on the palate, while the vibrant kiwi adds a refreshing burst of acidity. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of creamy and fruity notes, beautifully complemented by the vivid green hues that entice the eye and awaken the senses.

Smoked Salmon Tartare – A delightful medley of fresh salmon, finely chopped and expertly seasoned, served with a touch of citrus and accompanied by crispy crackers. The vibrant coral hue of the salmon is perfectly complemented by the zesty notes of lemon, while the texture is a harmonious balance of silky smoothness and satisfying crunch. Each bite delivers a nuanced interplay of flavors, with the smoky undertones enhancing the inherent richness of the fish, making it a truly exquisite culinary experience.


Yum!

Cheese straws puff pastry with tarragon ranch. These delightful bites are a perfect union of flaky pastry and rich, savory cheese, elevated by the aromatic whispers of tarragon in the ranch dip. The golden-brown straws boast a satisfying crunch that gives way to a creamy interior, while the tarragon ranch adds a refreshing herbaceous note, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the palate with every bite.

Our special menu for tonight.

The setting.

Bread and Butter Bordier from Brittany, France. The butter is so good. Its rich, creamy texture envelops the palate, while the delicate, slightly nutty flavor of the Bordier butter elevates the humble bread to a luxurious experience. The golden hue of the butter glistens enticingly, promising a taste that is both indulgent and unforgettable.

Smoked Trout. Fresh goat cheese mousse | smoked trout roe | apricot lane farm egg salad | herbs. Loved this smoky dish. The smoky essence of the trout beautifully intertwines with the creamy goat cheese mousse, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that is both rich and refreshing. The vibrant colors of the dish, complemented by the delicate herbs, invite you to indulge, while the subtle sweetness of the apricot lane farm egg salad adds a delightful contrast to the savory elements, making each bite a harmonious experience.

Wild Turbot: kimchi choron | corn | corn vol au vent. Perfectly cooked. The turbot’s delicate flesh gleamed with a subtle sheen, inviting the senses to explore its mild sweetness, while the vibrant kimchi choron added a piquant contrast that awakened the palate. Accompanied by the airy corn vol au vent, each bite was a harmonious interplay of textures, with the dish’s colors echoing the artistry of a painter’s palette.

Arugula Gelato (by me) with arugula oil, EVOO, and sea salt. Gelato salad — and perfect! The vibrant green hue of the gelato is striking, inviting you to indulge, while the delicate swirl of arugula oil adds a fragrant herbaceous note. Each spoonful offers a creamy texture that melts effortlessly, balanced by the subtle saltiness that enhances the natural peppery flavor of the arugula, creating a refreshing and unexpected culinary experience.

Salmon with grapes for the pescatarians. This dish is a beautiful marriage of flavors, where the rich, buttery texture of the salmon is perfectly complemented by the sweet, juicy bursts of grapes. The vibrant colors of the dish invite the senses, while the delicate aroma of the fish mingles with the subtle notes of fruit, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the palate.

Stuffed Quail: Foie gras | traditional stuffing | port wine jus | grapes. Smelled so good! The quail, perfectly roasted to a golden brown, exuded a rich aroma that was both earthy and indulgent. Each bite revealed a tender, succulent interior, harmoniously complemented by the sweet, velvety port wine jus and the subtle tartness of the grapes, creating a delightful balance of flavors that lingered elegantly on the palate.

Wagyu Beef Cheek. Pearl onions | Bourguignon style | Oyster mushrooms | Leeks 2 ways. This dish captivates with its velvety texture, where the rich, marbled beef cheek melts effortlessly in your mouth, harmonizing beautifully with the sweet and earthy notes of pearl onions and oyster mushrooms. The two preparations of leeks add a delightful crunch and subtle sweetness, elevating the experience with their vibrant green color and fragrant aroma, creating a symphony of flavors that dance elegantly on the palate.

Cheeses: Maroille | St Maure | Coulommiers | Brillat Savarin | Bleu D’Auvergne. Awesome cheeses! Each selection offers a unique profile, with the creamy Brillat Savarin providing a luscious mouthfeel, while the tangy notes of Bleu D’Auvergne linger delightfully on the palate. The contrasting textures and colors of these artisanal cheeses create a visually stunning and aromatic experience that invites exploration and indulgence.

Breads for the cheese. The array of artisanal breads offers a delightful canvas for the rich and varied cheeses they accompany. Each loaf, with its crusty exterior and soft, airy crumb, beckons with the warm aroma of freshly baked dough. The interplay of textures between the chewy crust and the tender interior enhances the creaminess of the cheeses, while their subtle nutty and slightly sweet notes provide a harmonious balance that elevates the tasting experience.

The dish, Golden Crisped Dough Strips, presents an enticing tableau of golden hues, each strip glistening with a delicate sheen that hints at its indulgent crunch. As they arrive, a warm, toasted aroma wafts gently, inviting anticipation of their buttery richness. The texture is a masterful juxtaposition; each bite yields a satisfying crackle, revealing a surprisingly airy interior that dissolves upon contact with the tongue. The flavor profile is a sublime interplay of sweetness and a whisper of salt, creating a symphony that lingers pleasantly, beckoning for another taste and leaving an imprint of its exquisite simplicity.


The wines. This was a seriously lightweight crew: only 3.x bottles with 11 people — and I’m sure I had at least a bottle myself!

Fabulous little dinner. LQ is an amazing chef, and he and his crew are super fast and efficient, leaving everything spotless.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Italian House Party
  2. House Party from Laos
  3. Happy Hibi
  4. Petrossian Party
  5. Tomato Wednesday!
By: agavin
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Republique of Tomatoes

Jun01

Restaurant: République  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14]

Location: 624 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036. (310) 362-6115

Date: September 29, 2024

Cuisine: French

Chef: Walter Manzke

Rating: Very solid as always

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République opened in late 2013, breathing new life into the storied 1929 Spanish-Revival structure on South La Brea once built for Charlie Chaplin and later occupied by Campanile and La Brea Bakery. Husband-and-wife chefs Walter and Margarita Manzke—backed at launch by restaurateur Bill Chait—took over the landmark with a pledge to honor its history while pushing Los Angeles dining forward. Walter, known for his exacting French technique and market-driven cooking, oversees the savory kitchen, while Margarita, a multiple James Beard nominee, commands the boulangerie-pâtisserie whose kouign-amann and croissants have become citywide benchmarks. Their culinary philosophy marries classical French foundations with Southern California seasonality: whole-animal butchery, house-made charcuterie, vibrant farmers-market produce, and pastries that rival the entrées for star status. The restaurant’s all-day format—morning bakery counter, casual midday café, and polished dinner service—mirrors the couple’s belief that fine craftsmanship should be accessible at any hour.

 

Stepping inside, guests find a soaring, skylit hall of exposed brick, reclaimed wood, and original tile, its cathedral-like volume softened by the clatter of an open kitchen and a marble bakery counter stacked with still-warm loaves. Communal tables, an intimate mezzanine, a zinc-topped bar pouring Old World wines and craft cocktails, and a subterranean wine cellar create a layered space that feels simultaneously grand and convivial—Parisian brasserie meets California workshop. République quickly became an anchor of the revitalized La Brea dining corridor, earning a Michelin star and constant local acclaim for combining technical rigor with the easygoing spirit Angelenos prize. Nearly a decade on, it remains both a pilgrimage site for pastry lovers and a benchmark for market-driven French cooking in Los Angeles, proof that history and innovation can thrive under the same vaulted roof.
Raised in a farming family near San Diego, Walter Manzke left California in the early 1990s for classical training at the Culinary Institute of America and an apprenticeship at Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monaco. Back in the States he joined Joachim Splichal’s Patina Group, quickly rising to chef de cuisine at Patina before earning his first national notice as opening chef of Bastide in West Hollywood and later as executive chef/partner at L’Auberge Carmel, where he won a MICHELIN star. A six-month stage at El Bulli and shorter sojourns at El Celler de Can Roca and Pierre Gagnaire rounded out a résumé that now reads like a tour of modern European masters. By the time he took over the historic 1929 Charlie Chaplin-built space on La Brea in 2013—opening it as République with his wife and acclaimed pastry chef Margarita Manzke—he had become one of L.A.’s most sought-after kitchen leaders.

Tomato Menu – Back to Republique for this year’s special tomato menu cooked by Chef Walter Manzke, Chef Margarita Manzke, and Chef Marcus Jernmark. The vibrant hues of the tomatoes are beautifully showcased, with each dish offering a symphony of sweet and tangy notes, complemented by a touch of earthiness. The textures range from silky purées to crisped skins, creating a delightful contrast that dances on the palate, while the aroma of fresh herbs enhances the overall experience, inviting you into a garden of exquisite flavors.

Gothic.

Walter Manzke’s cooking at République marries French technique to Southern California product and a restless, globe-trotting curiosity. House-baked levain, hand-cut charcuterie, and sauces mounted in the old Escoffier style share the menu with uni topped kimchi fried rice or dry-aged côte de boeuf served with Thai nahm jim. The connective tissue is seasonality: virtually every day starts with a pre-dawn run to the Santa Monica Farmers Market, and whole animals and stone-ground grains arrive weekly for in-house butchery and milling. Influences range from Ducasse’s rigor to the improvisational spirit of California cuisine and the avant-garde ideas Manzke absorbed in Spain; the result is a style that feels at once classic and perpetually new. Multiple James Beard nominations (Best Chef: West for Walter, Outstanding Pastry Chef for Margarita), a spot in Jonathan Gold’s perennial “101 Best” list, and national nods from Esquire, Food & Wine, and the MICHELIN Guide underscore the impact.

Philosophically, Manzke treats the restaurant as a living workshop: buy the best possible ingredients from people you know, waste nothing, respect technique but never let it calcify, and keep the dining room accessible to all—from early-morning kouign-amann and Stumptown coffee to a nine-course dégustation at night. “We cook French food the way Angelenos eat,” he likes to say, summing up a kitchen culture that prizes curiosity over dogma, craftsmanship over trend, and hospitality over hierarchy.

Swedish-born chef Marcus Jernmark earned his fine-dining stripes in New York, guiding Aquavit to Michelin acclaim and polishing his craft at Thomas Keller’s Per Se before returning to Europe to helm Stockholm’s three-star Frantzén and launch its Singapore sibling Zén. After relocating to Los Angeles in 2022, he unveiled plans for two modern Nordic concepts—Lielle, named for his daughter, and the seafood-focused Marée—set to open in 2025 inside a revamped Pico Boulevard townhouse, where he aims to rekindle the city’s appetite for Scandinavian cooking. Jernmark’s style fuses Nordic precision with French technique, but it is rooted in a hyper-seasonal, California-first pantry and a philosophy that elevates joy and hospitality alongside technical rigor, making him one of the most closely watched chefs on the West Coast dining scene.

Erick.


Myself.


The menu.

The 2014 Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Premier Cru “Eau Remilly” showcases the elegance of Burgundy with its bright acidity and layered complexity. This Chardonnay offers notes of citrus zest, white peach, and a subtle minerality that speaks to its terroir. A perfect pairing for seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a rich lobster bisque, enhancing both the wine and the meal.

With its refined structure and fragrant bouquet, this wine embodies the essence of the Saint-Aubin region. The oak aging adds a touch of warmth and depth, making it a delightful match for creamy cheeses or roasted chicken, elevating any dining experience to a Michelin-starred level.

Chilled Oyster: aged Kaluga caviar, menegi oil, green zebra tomato mignonette. Very Republique, but nice with the zingy tomato juice. The delicate brininess of the oyster is beautifully complemented by the luxurious, buttery caviar, while the vibrant green zebra tomato mignonette adds a refreshing acidity that dances on the palate. The dish presents a stunning contrast of colors and textures, with the glossy caviar glistening atop the oyster’s pearlescent shell, inviting you to indulge in its oceanic allure.

Blue Corn Tostada: early girl tomato tartare, morita chile-tomato gelée, avocado, salsa fresca. Pretty much transported from Manzke. The vibrant hues of the dish create an inviting palette, while the crisp blue corn tostada provides a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the velvety avocado. The tartare bursts with the freshness of the tomatoes, harmoniously complemented by the smoky undertones of the morita chile gelée, delivering an exquisite balance of flavor that dances on the palate.

Zoom.

Pan de Sal, black winter truffle, San Marzano tomato butter. This bread came from Manzke too. The warm, golden crust gives way to a soft, airy interior, while the earthy aroma of black winter truffle melds beautifully with the rich, velvety San Marzano tomato butter, creating a harmonious balance of umami and sweetness that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Pineapple Tomato Gazpacho: red brandywine tomato sorbet, blood orange oil, espresso vinegar. Delicious but sweet. The vibrant hues of the gazpacho evoke a sunset, while the silky sorbet introduces a refreshing chill that dances on the palate. The interplay of sweetness from the sorbet and the zesty notes of blood orange oil creates a harmonious balance, inviting a delightful exploration of flavors with each spoonful.

Zoom

NORWEGIAN KING CRAB. Munak Ranch sugar cube melon, persimmon tomato, Tenerelli Orchards white nectarine nước chấm. The succulent sweetness of the crab is beautifully complemented by the vibrant juiciness of the melon and the delicate acidity of the persimmon tomato. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of textures and flavors, where the tender crab meat meets the refreshing crunch of the seasonal fruits, creating a symphony of taste that dances on the palate.

Makes for a nice photo.

Bluefin Tuna: Pacific uni, sungold tomatoes, fermented yellow peach. Bright. The luscious, buttery texture of the bluefin tuna harmonizes beautifully with the oceanic brininess of the uni, while the sweet, sun-kissed sungold tomatoes add a vibrant pop of color and acidity. The subtle tang of the fermented yellow peach introduces an unexpected depth, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate, evoking the freshness of a sunlit summer day.

Fried shiso to eat it with. The delicate, crispy exterior offers a delightful contrast to the herbaceous, slightly peppery notes of the shiso leaf within. As you take a bite, the fragrant aroma envelops your senses, with hints of earthiness that linger on the palate, making it a perfect accompaniment to a variety of dishes.

The 2002 Échézeaux Grand Cru from Jean-Pierre Mugneret showcases the elegance and complexity of Burgundy’s finest terroirs. Hailing from the esteemed Échézeaux vineyard, this Pinot Noir reveals a bouquet of ripe red berries, floral notes, and subtle earthy undertones. Its velvety tannins and balanced acidity make it a splendid pairing for duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto, enhancing the dish with its sophisticated flavor profile.

Sea Bream ‘Confit’: savory clams, chanterelle mushrooms, smoked tomato sabayon. Rich and simultaneously sweet and tart. The delicate flesh of the sea bream, glistening with a luscious sheen, harmonizes beautifully with the briny clams and earthy mushrooms. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, elevated by the vibrant acidity of the smoked tomato sabayon, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate.

Munak Ranch Tomato Agnolotti: Maine lobster, brown butter, Coleman Farms tarragon. Awesome summer pasta. The delicate agnolotti, with its vibrant tomato essence, envelopes the succulent Maine lobster, while the brown butter adds a nutty depth that perfectly complements the fragrant tarragon. Each bite is a harmonious blend of rich flavors and silky textures, evoking the warmth of summer in every mouthful.

 

Anderson Ranches Rack of Lamb: San Marzano tomato farci, charred eggplant, sauce ratatouille. Pleasant but not as impressive as some of the other dishes. The lamb, expertly cooked to a tender medium-rare, showcases a beautiful pink hue that contrasts elegantly with the deep, earthy tones of the charred eggplant. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory richness and subtle acidity from the tomato farci, while the sauce ratatouille adds a fragrant bouquet of herbs that lingers on the palate, inviting another taste.

Brillat-Savarin Bavarois: country Rhodes farm figs, rocky sweet melon sorbet, early girl tomato. This dish presents a delightful interplay of textures, with the creamy bavarois contrasting beautifully against the luscious figs and the refreshing sorbet. The early girl tomato adds a subtle acidity, enhancing the overall experience, while the vibrant colors create an inviting visual feast that tantalizes the senses before the first bite.

More zooms.

Amuses had tomato flavor, and they actually worked. The vibrant hues of the tomatoes were mirrored in the dish’s presentation, creating a visual symphony that entices the eye. Each bite was a delightful balance of sweetness and acidity, with the smooth texture of the tomato elevating the overall experience, while the aroma wafted hints of earthiness, making it a remarkably refreshing start to the meal.


Two tomato meals in 8 days, and both great! I’ve really warmed up to these first-rate organic tomatoes.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Republique Latour
  2. Third Republique
  3. Tomato Wednesday!
  4. Trimbach Republique
  5. Republique of Jadot
By: agavin
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