Author Archive for agavin

Westside Family Style

Jun22

Restaurant: Jin Cook

Location: 3001 Wilshire Blvd Ste C Santa Monica, CA 90403

Date: October 11, 2024

Cuisine: Family Style Korean

Rating: Great to have in Santa Monica

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I haven’t made many AFF recently due to work, but when one came up just a mile away at this new Korean spot I had to jump.

Jincook on Wilshire Boulevard offers an authentic Korean soul food experience with a clean and inviting atmosphere, serving up hearty and flavorful dishes like the tender Braised Beef Short Rib and the popular Rose Tteokbokki, all accompanied by friendly service and generous portions of banchan.

It’s rare to see a “real” Korean restaurant this far west, so it’s very cool to get one here at 30th and Wilshire.

Homestyle menu.

Pleasant interior.

Radish kimchee is a traditional Korean side dish that features crisp, vibrant radishes fermented in a tangy, spicy brine. The balance of heat and acidity awakens the palate, while the bright, ruby-red hue invites curiosity. Each bite is a delightful crunch, releasing a burst of umami and a refreshing, peppery finish that lingers pleasantly on the tongue, making it a captivating accompaniment to any meal.

Spinach Banchan. A traditional Korean side dish that highlights the delicate balance of flavors, this banchan features tender spinach, seasoned with sesame oil, garlic, and a sprinkle of sesame seeds. The vibrant green of the spinach is a feast for the eyes, while the nutty aroma of sesame oil wafts invitingly. Each bite delivers a subtle crunch, perfectly melding with the earthy notes of garlic, creating a harmonious interplay of texture and taste that is both refreshing and satisfying.

Classic Cabbage Kimchee: A traditional Korean dish that is both spicy and tangy, with a delightful crunch. The vibrant red hue of the chili flakes contrasts beautifully with the crisp green cabbage, creating a visual feast. The complex layers of flavor unfold with each bite, revealing the fermented depth and a subtle umami richness that lingers on the palate. The aroma is a tantalizing mix of garlic and ginger, inviting you to savor its bold character.

Onion Banchan is a delightful side dish featuring pickled onions that offer a tangy crunch with every bite. The vibrant hues of the pickled onions contrast beautifully against the sleek, minimalist presentation, while their sharp, slightly sweet aroma wafts invitingly. Each piece is a burst of flavor, balancing acidity and sweetness, and providing a refreshing palate cleanser that enhances the overall dining experience.

Marinated Dumpling. Fried dumping tossed with sweet soy sauce. The crispy exterior gives way to a tender, savory filling, while the rich aroma of the sweet soy sauce envelops the senses. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of textures, with the dumpling’s golden-brown crust contrasting beautifully against the luscious, umami-packed interior.

Steamed Dumpling. Steamed juicy pork dumpling. The delicate, translucent skin cradles a savory filling that bursts with umami flavors, while the fragrant steam releases a tantalizing aroma that beckons you closer. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of tender meat and a hint of sweetness, enveloped in a warm, comforting embrace that lingers on the palate.

Korean Pancake (Seafood/Bulgogi): Korean style pancake with green onion and choice of your protein. The golden-brown exterior boasts a satisfying crispness that contrasts beautifully with the tender, savory filling. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of flavors, enhanced by the fragrant notes of green onion, while the umami richness of the seafood or bulgogi provides a delightful depth that lingers on the palate.

Army Stew (Budae-Jjigae): Instant ramen noodle, Spam, ham, rice cake, vege and American cheese in spicy soup. This hearty dish is a delightful symphony of textures, where the chewy noodles intertwine with the soft, savory Spam and the slight bounce of rice cakes, creating a satisfying mouthfeel. The spicy broth, fragrant with a medley of spices, envelops each ingredient in a warm embrace, while the melted American cheese adds a creamy richness that beautifully balances the heat.

Cheese Curry Katsu. Cheese stuffed pork katsu served with rice and curry on hot stone. The golden-brown crust of the katsu invites you in, while the rich aroma of the curry wafts through the air, promising a warm embrace of flavors. As you cut into the tender pork, the melted cheese oozes out, creating a delightful contrast of textures that harmonizes beautifully with the fragrant curry and fluffy rice, resulting in a comforting yet sophisticated dish that warms both the body and soul.

Jalepeno Cheese Curry Katsu: Cheese and jalapeno stuffed pork katsu served with rice and curry on a hot stone. The golden-brown katsu, with its crisp exterior giving way to a succulent, spicy filling, offers a delightful contrast in textures. The aromatic curry, rich with umami, envelops the dish, while the vibrant rice provides a gentle balance, creating a harmonious experience that entices the senses with every bite.

Rose Tteokbokki: Spicy & creamy tteokbokki with sausage, bacon, mozzarella cheese with fried egg. — and blow torch action. The dish presents a vibrant hue of rosy pink, inviting you to dive into its luscious depths. Each bite reveals the perfect balance of heat and richness, while the mozzarella stretches enticingly, harmonizing with the savory notes of sausage and bacon, all crowned by the silkiness of the fried egg.

Garlic Suyuk (Sous vide pork beef bone, sous vide pork belly, Seol Lung Tang broth with homemade ground garlic sauce). This dish delivers a comforting embrace of rich, savory flavors, where the tender, succulent pork belly melts in your mouth, harmonizing beautifully with the umami-infused broth. The aromatic notes of garlic elevate the experience, while the delicate balance of textures—creamy, velvety broth against the hearty pork—invites you to savor each luscious bite.

B.B.Q Beef Rib (LA-Galbi): Marinated BBQ Beef Rib. The deep mahogany glaze glistens enticingly, promising a burst of flavor with every tender bite. With a smoky-sweet aroma wafting through the air, the rich, savory profile of the beef is perfectly complemented by the subtle tang of the marinade, creating a harmonious balance that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Bibimbab Hot Stone. Rice, assort vege, kimchi and go chu jang sauce on hot stone pot. The vibrant colors of the assorted vegetables create a visually stunning dish, while the heat of the stone pot enhances the rich, umami flavors of the go chu jang sauce. Each bite delivers a satisfying crunch from the vegetables, a subtle warmth from the kimchi, and a delightful depth that lingers on the palate.

In the heart of culinary artistry lies the sumptuous Kimchi Fried Rice, a vibrant tapestry of golden grains interspersed with the fiery reds and rich greens of its ingredients. The dish emanates a tantalizing aroma, a harmonious blend of fermented tang and savory undertones that beckon the senses. Each grain, perfectly al dente, yields a satisfying crunch that gives way to tender morsels of chicken, while the gentle heat of the kimchi dances playfully on the palate, invigorating the taste buds with its piquant zest. A whisper of sesame oil adds a luxurious silkiness, harmonizing the textures into a delightful medley that lingers long after the last bite.

Mushroom Japchae: Sauteed glass noodle with assorted mushroom finished with truffle oil. The earthy aroma of the mushrooms beautifully intertwines with the luxurious essence of truffle oil, creating a symphony of umami that dances on the palate. Each bite reveals the silky texture of the glass noodles, complemented by the vibrant colors and subtle crunch of the mushrooms, making for an exquisite culinary experience.


Jin Cook was quite tasty. Pretty similar to a similar style place in K-Town. This one is nicer and more expensive, but the food is almost on par — so great to have it.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Il Corso Palm Desert

Jun20

Restaurant: Il Corso

Location: 73100 El Paseo Suite 103, Palm Desert, CA 92260. (760) 341-6700

Date: September 26, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Mario Marfia

Rating: Rock it like 1999

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Il Corso opened its doors on El Paseo in 2013, the vision of Sicilian-born chef-owner Mario Marfia, whose résumé ranges from neighborhood trattorie in Venice to high-profile resort kitchens in the Coachella Valley. True to its name—“the promenade” in Italian—the restaurant was conceived as a gathering place where locals and visitors could stroll in for a quick espresso at the marble bar or linger over a multicourse dinner built around house-made pastas, pristine seafood, and premium meats roasted in a wood-burning oven imported from Naples. Marfia and his small circle of family partners run the dining room with an old-world warmth, but the culinary philosophy is resolutely modern: buy the best seasonal ingredients, import only what California can’t provide, and let disciplined technique speak louder than flourish or fuss.

Mario Marfia grew up in Palermo, Sicily, where weekend trips to the city’s sprawling Ballarò market and afternoons helping his grandmother stir saffron-tinted arancini set the course for a life in the kitchen. After formal training at the Istituto Alberghiero in Palermo, he cooked in Rome and Milan before accepting an invitation to the United States in the early 1990s. In Los Angeles he spent formative years on the line at Piero Selvaggio’s legendary Valentino, later opening Valentino Las Vegas at the Venetian, and eventually running the pasta program at Sinatra in the Wynn resort. Those tenures brought Marfia a shared James Beard Foundation nomination with the Valentino team, a Forbes Four-Star rating at Sinatra, and guest-chef appearances at Pebble Beach Food & Wine and the Aspen Food & Wine Classic. In 2012 he and his wife, Lisbet, settled in the Coachella Valley and debuted Il Corso on El Paseo in Palm Desert; the success of that cozy trattoria led to a larger, sleek sister restaurant—also called Il Corso—on Highway 111 in 2017.

Marfia’s cooking is grounded in the sun-drenched flavors of western Sicily—wild fennel, Pantelleria capers, citrus, pistachios—but filtered through the refinement he learned in Michelin-leaning kitchens and the agricultural abundance of the California desert. Handmade pastas such as busiate with pistachio-mint pesto share the menu with 48-hour-proofed Neapolitan pizzas, slow-braised ossobuco finished with Marsala, and crudo dressed simply with his own family’s olive oil from Menfi. The chef’s mantra of “semplicità e qualità” (simplicity and quality) drives every decision: ingredients are either imported directly from trusted producers in Italy or sourced from nearby farms in Thermal and Mecca; sauces are built with as few elements as possible to let individual flavors sing. That philosophy has earned Il Corso perennial “Best Italian” honors from Desert Magazine, consecutive Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence for its all-Italian cellar, and a loyal clientele that ranges from film-festival glitterati to snow-birding Canadian families—all drawn by Marfia’s conviction that honest food, made with care, can instantly transport a diner to a sunlit Sicilian afternoon.

The room itself is as carefully composed as the menu. Frosted glass, blond wood, and a ceiling of hand-hewn beams frame an open kitchen whose crackling fire provides both heat and theater, while a floor-to-ceiling wine wall showcases a 300-label list heavy on Tuscan reds and alpine whites. Retractable glass panels erase the boundary between dining room and patio, allowing the buzz of El Paseo’s upscale boutiques to become part of the soundtrack. In a valley crowded with steak houses and resort cafés, Il Corso quickly carved out a niche as the desert’s benchmark for authentic Italian, winning “Best of the Valley” citations and becoming the place chefs send visiting friends when asked where to taste the real thing. A decade on, it remains a culinary anchor for Palm Desert—at once sophisticated enough for a celebratory night out and relaxed enough for a simple plate of cacio e pepe after a day in the sun.

The 2016 Venica Pètris Malvasia hails from the Collio region of Italy, showcasing a vibrant expression of the Malvasia grape. This white wine presents an aromatic bouquet of stone fruits, citrus zest, and subtle floral notes, balanced by a refreshing acidity. It pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled calamari or a light seafood risotto, enhancing the meal with its lively character.

From the Abruzzo region, the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo offers a delightful blend of crispness and depth. This wine reveals notes of green apple, pear, and a hint of almond, with a clean, mineral finish that reflects the terroir. Ideal for pairing with creamy pasta dishes or roasted chicken, its versatility makes it a charming companion at any dining table.

Fiore di Zucchini: Baked zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta cheese, served with tomato sauce. The delicate blossoms, golden and crisp, offer a tender contrast to the creamy filling, while the vibrant tomato sauce adds a touch of acidity that brightens each bite. The aroma of fresh herbs wafts through the air, enhancing the overall experience with a symphony of seasonal flavors that delight the palate.

Carpaccio di Manzo: Thinly sliced beef, rucola, parmesan, capers, mustard sauce. This dish is a harmonious interplay of textures and flavors; the velvety beef is complemented by the peppery rucola and the nutty parmesan, while the piquant capers and zesty mustard sauce elevate each bite. The vibrant colors create a visually appealing plate that invites you to indulge in its delicate simplicity.

Pomodori e Burrata. Heirloom tomatoes, string beans, creamy burrata cheese. This dish presents a vibrant palette of colors, with the deep reds and greens inviting your senses. The heirloom tomatoes burst with sweetness, their juiciness perfectly complementing the rich, velvety texture of the burrata, while the string beans add a delightful crunch, creating a harmonious balance of flavor and mouthfeel.

Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2014 is a remarkable expression from one of Italy’s most revered producers. This white wine showcases a vibrant acidity balanced by notes of green apple, pear, and a hint of almond, reflecting the unique terroir of Abruzzo. Ideal for pairing with fresh seafood dishes or light pasta with olive oil and herbs, it embodies the essence of traditional winemaking.

The 2014 vintage highlights the wine’s intricate layers and complexity, with a mineral backbone that enhances its freshness. The wine’s aging potential is notable, making it a great candidate for those looking to explore its evolution over time.

Vegan (garlic) pizza. This delightful creation features a crispy crust topped with a medley of fresh vegetables and a fragrant garlic-infused sauce. The harmonious blend of earthy flavors dances on the palate, while the vibrant colors of the toppings create a visual feast. Each bite offers a satisfying crunch, complemented by the subtle warmth of roasted garlic that lingers pleasantly, making it a truly memorable culinary experience.

Margherita. San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, and fresh chopped basil. This classic pizza captivates with its vibrant colors and inviting aroma, where the sweetness of the tomatoes harmonizes beautifully with the creamy mozzarella and the aromatic freshness of basil. Each bite offers a delightful balance of textures, from the crisp crust to the luscious toppings, creating a comforting yet sophisticated experience on the palate.

Mortadella: White cream pizza, with mortadella and pistachio. The creamy, rich base of the pizza is perfectly complemented by the savory, slightly nutty flavor of the mortadella, while the pistachio adds a delightful crunch and subtle earthiness. Each bite is a harmonious blend of textures, with the golden crust providing a satisfying contrast to the luscious toppings, creating a comforting yet elevated culinary experience.

The Emidio Pepe Rosato 2018 hails from the renowned Colli Aprutini region of Italy. This vibrant rosé showcases a blend of indigenous grapes, offering a refreshing acidity intertwined with notes of wild strawberries and citrus zest. Ideal for pairing with seafood dishes or light pasta, its versatility makes it a delightful choice for warm evenings.

Ravioli all’Aurora: Ravioli stuffed with ricotta & spinach in creamy tomato sauce. The delicate pasta envelopes a lush filling, while the sauce offers a velvety embrace, balancing acidity and creaminess with every bite. The dish presents a vibrant palette of colors, with the deep red of the sauce contrasting beautifully against the pale green filling, inviting you to savor its rich aroma before indulging in its comforting warmth.

Pappardelle Norcina: Ribbon pasta with mixed wild mushrooms, sausage, and black truffle. More of a brown sauce pasta. I didn’t taste any truffle, and it was hard sausage instead of the crumbly Norcina sausage. I didn’t notice any pecorino either. The dish presented a rustic elegance, with the earthy tones of the mushrooms and the deep umami of the sauce creating a comforting embrace. However, the absence of the expected truffle aroma and the texture of the sausage left a yearning for the authentic decadence that typically defines this classic Italian dish.

Vegan pasta is a delightful dish that showcases a medley of vibrant vegetables intertwined with al dente noodles, creating a satisfying and wholesome experience. The bright colors of the fresh produce not only appeal to the eye but also bring a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate. With each bite, the subtle earthiness of the vegetables harmonizes beautifully with the fragrant herbs, while a delicate drizzle of olive oil elevates the dish, adding a silky richness that lingers gracefully. The aroma wafts enticingly, inviting you to indulge in this comforting yet refined creation.

The 2006 Le Piane Boca is a captivating blend from the Piedmont region of Italy, showcasing a unique combination of Nebbiolo and Vespolina grapes. This wine presents a complex bouquet of dark cherry, dried herbs, and earthy undertones, complemented by a subtle minerality. Its vibrant acidity and fine tannins make it a superb pairing for rich dishes, such as braised meats or aged cheeses.

With its elegant profile, the Le Piane Boca is a beautiful representation of the Boca DOC, demonstrating the region’s potential for producing age-worthy wines that offer both depth and finesse. The vintage’s warmth has resulted in a lush mouthfeel, providing an inviting experience that evolves gracefully in the glass.

Eggplant Parm: A delightful dish made with layers of tender eggplant, rich marinara sauce, and melted cheese that creates a comforting experience. The eggplant, perfectly cooked to a silky texture, melds beautifully with the robust acidity of the marinara, while the cheese adds a luscious creaminess that binds the dish together. Each bite is a harmonious balance of flavors, with aromatic notes of basil and a golden crust that invites you to savor its warmth and heartiness.

Branzino alla griglia: Grilled Mediterranean sea bass served with zucchini, eggplant, and tomatoes. Old school! The fish boasts a delicate flakiness, enhanced by the subtle smokiness of the grill, while the vibrant vegetables contribute a harmonious balance of sweetness and earthiness. Each bite is a celebration of sun-kissed flavors, transporting you to a seaside terrace with the gentle breeze and the aroma of the sea lingering in the air.

Costalette d’Agnello: Grilled lamb chops, served with roasted potatoes and sautéed spinach. The succulent lamb, with its perfectly charred exterior, offers a rich, gamey flavor that is beautifully complemented by the earthy notes of the roasted potatoes and the vibrant, slightly bitter green of the sautéed spinach. Each bite is a harmonious balance of textures, from the tender meat to the crisp edges of the potatoes, creating a visually appealing and satisfying plate that delights the senses.

Pork Ossobucco. A rich, slow-cooked dish that features tender pork shanks braised with aromatic vegetables, white wine, and a hint of citrus. The dish is served with a creamy polenta that perfectly complements the savory meat. The pork is beautifully succulent, its flavor deepened by the gradual melding of the braising liquid’s acidity and the natural sweetness of the vegetables, while the polenta adds a luxurious, velvety texture that rounds out this comforting meal.


Mashers.

Veggies.

Insalata Tricolore: Mix of arugula, endive, and radicchio, shaved parmesan cheese, with olive oil and lemon juice dressing. This vibrant salad bursts with the peppery notes of arugula, the crisp bitterness of endive, and the deep, earthy sweetness of radicchio, all harmonized by the rich, nutty flavor of parmesan. The dressing, a simple emulsion of olive oil and bright lemon juice, elevates the dish, providing a refreshing tang that dances on the palate while enhancing the vivid colors of the greens.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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  5. Happy Hibi
By: agavin
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Workshopping Palm Springs

Jun18

Restaurant: Workshop Kitchen + Bar

Location: 800 N Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92262. (760) 459-3451

Date: September 25, 2024

Cuisine: New American

Chef: Michael Beckman

Rating: Tasty

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Workshop Kitchen + Bar opened in 2012 inside the historic 1926 El Paseo building in Palm Springs’ Uptown Design District, instantly recasting the desert city’s image from mid-century nostalgia to forward-looking cool. Chef Michael Beckman—an Institute Paul Bocuse–trained Californian who cooked in Lyon, Berlin, and at Auberge du Soleil—partnered with longtime friend and front-of-house maven Joseph Mourani to launch the project. They enlisted New York–based SOMA Architects to carve a soaring, almost Brutalist dining room out of the old structure: 27-foot concrete walls, cathedral-like niches of black leather, a 35-foot communal table of poured concrete, and an open, copper-clad kitchen that glows like a forge. The dramatic redesign earned a James Beard Award for restaurant design and turned Workshop into an architectural pilgrimage site as much as a place to eat.

Beckman’s cooking follows a strict farm-to-table and whole-animal ethos, drawing produce from Coachella Valley farms, heritage meats from Southern California ranchers, and day-boat seafood from the Pacific, most of it finished in a wood-fired oven. Menus shift with the desert seasons—roasted Romanesco with brown-butter breadcrumbs in winter, charred octopus with citrus and Fresno chile when orchards are heavy, dry-aged rib-eye glazed with date molasses during the summer harvest. The bar applies the same locavore rigor, infusing spirits with desert botanicals and shaking cocktails that spotlight regional citrus and stone fruit. This disciplined yet playful approach, coupled with service that balances urban polish and Palm Springs ease, has made Workshop Kitchen + Bar the flag-bearer for the city’s culinary renaissance, inspiring a wave of chef-driven openings and cementing Palm Springs as a bona fide dining destination rather than just a retro resort town.

Chef-partner Michael Beckman arrived at Workshop Kitchen + Bar in 2012 with a résumé that belies the scruffy ease of Palm Springs. A Southern California native, he graduated from the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park and then spent almost a decade in Europe, cooking in Michelin-starred kitchens such as L’Auberge de l’Ill in Alsace, Hotel Adlon’s Lorenz Adlon in Berlin and the Ritz-Carlton’s Restaurant Vitrum, eventually rising to chef de cuisine before returning to the States. A stint with Joachim Splichal’s Patina Group in Los Angeles rounded out his classical foundation and introduced him to the produce-driven ethos that now defines his own cooking.

Beckman’s signature at Workshop is a modern California menu filtered through Old-World technique: vegetables pulled from Coachella Valley farms the same morning they are blistered in a 750-degree stone hearth; whole animals broken down in-house for charcuterie or slow-roasted on the bone; North African spices, Alpine pickling liquids and French sauces sharing the same plate without crowding one another. Influences range from the precision of German fine dining to the exuberance of North African street markets he visited while staging abroad, and the common denominator is respect for ingredients and seasonality. The restaurant’s Brutalist dining room won a James Beard Award for design, while Beckman himself has been a James Beard “Best Chef: West” semifinalist and a Food & Wine “People’s Best New Chef” nominee; local press routinely names Workshop the Coachella Valley’s top table.

Guiding it all is a clear philosophy: cook with what the desert gives you, waste nothing, and let technique serve—not obscure—the product. Beckman keeps relationships with a tight circle of small growers, mills his own flour for the naturally leavened bread program, and writes menus around the bumper crops those farmers bring to the back door. The result is a dining experience that feels simultaneously worldly and rooted, proof that a destination resort town can have a serious, ingredient-first dining culture at its heart.

Stepping into the restaurant is akin to entering a sophisticated art gallery, where the stark concrete walls meet the warmth of intimate black booths, creating a striking contrast that fosters both elegance and comfort. The minimalist design, accentuated by linear pendant lights, casts a soft glow over the tables, inviting diners to engage in a sensory exploration of flavors and textures. This thoughtfully curated space not only enhances the culinary experience but also encourages a connection between guests, making every meal a memorable journey through taste and ambiance.

Gathered around the table, a vibrant group of food enthusiasts and culinary creators come together to savor an exquisite dining experience.


The set menu.

The Champagne Drappier, a captivating Rosé from the renowned Aube region, showcases the 2018 vintage. This vibrant expression combines Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, offering delicate red fruit notes, a touch of minerality, and a refreshing effervescence. Its versatility makes it an excellent pairing with seafood dishes or light appetizers.

With a charming salmon hue, this sparkling wine carries a bouquet of strawberries and raspberries, complemented by subtle floral notes. Drappier’s meticulous craftsmanship shines through, making it an ideal companion for celebrations or a delightful aperitif to start any meal on a festive note.

Les Graviers, produced by Béatrice & Stéphane Tissot in the Jura region of France, is a captivating 2016 vintage white wine. With its unique blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin, this wine exhibits a rich, complex profile of ripe stone fruits, subtle nuttiness, and a hint of oxidative character. Ideal for pairing with creamy cheeses, roasted chicken, or seafood dishes, it enhances the dining experience with its elegant acidity and minerality.

Scallop Crudo, yuzu broth, cara cara, fresno chile, nasturtium. This dish is a refreshing symphony of flavors, with the delicate sweetness of the scallops beautifully accentuated by the bright, citrusy notes of yuzu. The vibrant hues of cara cara oranges and the subtle heat of fresno chiles create a visually stunning presentation, while the fresh nasturtium adds a peppery finish, making each bite a delightful exploration of textures and tastes.

Summer Squash, stracciatella, sungold tomato, chive oil, dukkah, fresh herbs, crispy shallot. The vibrant medley of colors and textures creates a visual masterpiece, while the creamy stracciatella intertwines with the sweet burst of sungold tomatoes. Each bite offers a delicate balance of earthiness from the dukkah and a fragrant lift from the chive oil, complemented by the satisfying crunch of crispy shallots and the freshness of herbs.


Salad.

Oyster Mushrooms, chicken fried, bread & butter pickle, buttermilk sauce, spiced honey, parker house roll. The golden-brown crust encasing the tender oyster mushrooms offers a delightful crunch, while the buttermilk sauce adds a creamy tang that perfectly complements the earthy notes of the fungi. The spiced honey introduces a whisper of sweetness, harmonizing beautifully with the tangy pickle, and each bite reveals a comforting nostalgia reminiscent of cherished family gatherings.

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes from Domaine Denis Mortet is a stunning expression of Burgundy, showcasing the complexity and depth of this esteemed region. Its vibrant ruby hue hints at the intense aromas of ripe red berries, earth, and subtle spice. On the palate, the wine is elegantly structured with fine tannins and a refreshing acidity, making it an exquisite match for duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto.

SWEET CORN RISOTTO, saffron butter, pecorino, parsley, Australian winter truffle. This dish envelops you in a warm embrace of creamy texture, with the sweet corn lending a delightful burst of freshness that harmonizes beautifully with the earthy aroma of truffle. The golden hue, punctuated by flecks of green parsley, not only pleases the eye but also enhances the overall sensory experience, creating a perfect balance of richness and subtlety in every bite.

Weiser Farms Conehead Cabbage, tahini, chili crisp, almonds, Thai basil, mint, pita. This dish presents an inviting array of colors, with the vibrant green of fresh herbs juxtaposed against the creamy beige of tahini. The Conehead cabbage, with its crisp texture, provides an excellent canvas for the umami-rich chili crisp, while the almonds add a delightful crunch that elevates each bite. Aromatic notes of mint and Thai basil weave through the dish, creating a refreshing experience that dances on the palate.

Liberty Farms Duck à l’Orange, snap peas, Ojal pixies, blood orange, pea tendrils, togarashi. The duck, perfectly roasted to achieve a crisp skin, offers a rich, savory depth, while the vibrant blood orange provides a refreshing acidity that cuts through the richness. The snap peas and pea tendrils add a delightful crunch and freshness, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures that dance on the palate.

Château Pape Clément, a renowned producer from the Pessac-Léognan region, presents its 2000 vintage, a superb blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This elegant wine exhibits rich notes of dark fruit, cedar, and a hint of truffle, complemented by velvety tannins. Ideal for pairing with lamb dishes or a hearty beef stew, it showcases the complexity and finesse characteristic of top-tier Bordeaux.

Dry-Aged Masami Ranch Ribeye, 18-oz American Wagyu, grilled over wood fire, roasted cipollini onions, broccolini, carrots, bone marrow butter. The deep, caramelized crust of the ribeye contrasts beautifully with its tender, marbled interior, offering a rich umami experience. Each bite releases a symphony of savory flavors, harmonized by the sweetness of the roasted cipollini onions and the earthy notes of broccolini and carrots, all enriched by the luscious bone marrow butter that envelops the palate in a luxurious finish.


Pita.

Veggies.

Pistachio Tres Leches, rose water cream. This dessert is a delightful fusion of textures, with the moist sponge soaking up the rich, creamy tres leches, while the delicate, floral notes of rose water elevate the experience. The vibrant green of the pistachios adds an alluring visual contrast, and each bite offers a harmonious balance of sweetness and nutty depth, enveloping the palate in a luxurious embrace.

Chocolate Cremeux, Valrhona Jivara, dulce de leche pearls, seasonal fruit. This dessert is a decadent indulgence, featuring a silky smooth chocolate base that melts on the tongue, harmoniously complemented by the luscious, creamy pearls of dulce de leche. The vibrant seasonal fruits add a refreshing contrast, their bright colors and natural sweetness elevating the dish while providing a delightful textural balance against the rich chocolate. The aroma is intoxicating, a sweet embrace that invites you in for another delightful bite.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Desert Magic

Jun16

Restaurant: Private Chef Justin Snyder

Location: Palm Desert

Date: September 24, 2024

Cuisine: American

Chef: Justin Snyder

Rating: Really creative

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For a Corporate Retreat dinner we brought on private chef Justin Snyder.

Snyder’s cooking leans toward what he calls “desert terroir cuisine”—a style that marries classical French rigor with the bold, sun-struck flavors of the Southwest. Cholla-blossom honey, smoke-kissed Medjool dates, and citrus from century-old groves anchor menus that change nightly, each dish plated on ceramic pieces thrown by local artists. Influences range from Thomas Keller’s disciplined layering of texture to Diana Kennedy’s respect for Mexican regionality, and the results have earned him a feature in Palm Springs Life and a semifinalist nod for the StarChefs Rising Star Award. Yet accolades play second fiddle to a guiding philosophy Snyder sums up as “context is seasoning”: every plate should make sense not just on the palate but in its place and moment. From sourcing olives pressed within twenty miles to limiting seating to twelve so he can finish sauces tableside, every choice is meant to remind guests that great food is inseparable from the land—and from the fleeting company with whom it’s shared.

Meal was very good. Interesting flavors and highly complex ingredient-focused dishes. A tiny bit “heavy.” Maybe needed a bit more acidity for my taste.

From the esteemed House of Taittinger, this 2012 Champagne hails from the renowned Champagne region of France. With a blend primarily of Chardonnay, this vintage offers vibrant notes of citrus and stone fruits, complemented by a delicate minerality and a fine mousse. Ideal as an aperitif, it pairs beautifully with oysters or a fresh seafood platter, elevating any celebratory occasion.


Bread.

Butter.

Washugyu Tartare – Spiced aioli, Saporro mustard, radish, berbere spice, micro green. This exquisite tartare presents a harmonious blend of rich, buttery beef with a delicate kick from the spiced aioli and the piquant touch of Saporro mustard. The vibrant colors of the micro greens and radish add a refreshing crunch, while the berbere spice introduces a warm, aromatic note that lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor each bite.

Hearts of palm, gochujang, radish, berbere spice, micro greens. This vibrant dish presents a delightful interplay of textures and flavors, where the tender hearts of palm contrast beautifully with the crispness of radish. The subtle heat from the gochujang is expertly balanced by the aromatic warmth of berbere spice, while the microgreens add a fresh, herbaceous note that elevates the entire experience.

The Prager Klaus Riesling from the Wachau region of Austria, vintage 2019, is a stunning example of this varietal. With its vibrant acidity and notes of stone fruit and citrus, it showcases the terroir beautifully. This off-dry style pairs wonderfully with spicy Asian dishes and fresh seafood, enhancing their flavors while providing a refreshing contrast.

Charred Avocado, pickled avocado mousse, fresh horseradish, liquid amino ponzu, yuzu. The interplay of smoky char and creamy mousse creates a luscious mouthfeel, while the sharpness of the horseradish and the citrusy brightness of yuzu elevate the dish to a refreshing crescendo. Each bite is a harmonious blend of textures and flavors that tantalize the palate, enveloping the senses in an aromatic embrace.

Canadian Duck Breast – Blood orange, local mushroom tare, puffed rice, lacto-fermented pluot. The duck breast is beautifully seared, showcasing a sumptuous, rich flavor that melds harmoniously with the vibrant acidity of the blood orange. The earthy notes of the local mushroom tare provide depth, while the puffed rice adds a delightful crunch, enhancing the dish’s texture. Meanwhile, the lacto-fermented pluot introduces a unique tanginess, elevating the overall experience with its complex layers and inviting aroma.

Imported Dry Aged Hamachi – 8 month gochujang, smoked shoyu, chino farms grapefruit, wakame, California togarashi. The delicate, buttery texture of the hamachi dances harmoniously with the umami depth of the smoked shoyu and the vibrant acidity of the grapefruit, creating a symphony of flavors that is both refreshing and savory. The dish is beautifully presented, with a striking contrast of colors that invites you to savor each bite, while the subtle heat from the togarashi lingers pleasantly on the palate.

The Moreau Naudet Chablis Premier Cru 2009 is a stunning expression of the Chablis region, showcasing the purity of Chardonnay with a crisp minerality and vibrant acidity. This vintage offers notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a whisper of flint, making it a delightful pairing for fresh seafood, particularly oysters or grilled white fish.

Japanese Eggplant Au Pouve, 10 year aged Japanese whisky, garlic confit, capers, shallot, smoked eggplant demi glace, miso. The dish presents a stunning interplay of glossy purple and deep umber hues, with the silky texture of the eggplant lending a luxurious mouthfeel. Aromas of umami-rich miso and the earthy notes from the smoked demi-glace create an enticing bouquet that invites the palate to explore the harmonious balance between the sweetness of the garlic confit and the briny brightness of the capers.

Seared Masami Ranch Teres Major – Black garlic Robuchon potato, 20-hour Pinot bordelaise, koji carrots, Espellete, smoked Maldon. This dish is a harmonious symphony of flavors, where the rich, buttery notes of the black garlic Robuchon potato complement the tender, succulent teres major, while the 20-hour Pinot bordelaise adds a velvety depth. The koji carrots provide a subtle umami sweetness, and the smoked Maldon lends a delicate crunch, elevating the experience with each bite as the vibrant colors and aromas coalesce on the plate.

Pistachio/Turmeric/Saffron – Pate Sable, Hawaiian Vanilla Bean, Olive Oil, Orange Zest. Gelato by Sweet Milk Gelato (made by me). The vibrant hues of green and gold create a visually stunning presentation, while the delicate crumb of the pate sable offers a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of nutty pistachio, aromatic saffron, and the warm undertone of turmeric, perfectly balanced by the bright citrus notes of orange zest and the luxurious sweetness of Hawaiian vanilla bean, resulting in a truly enchanting culinary experience.

Citrus Sorbetto, vegan crumble, fresh berries, lemon zest, olive oil, fleur de sel. Sorbetto by Sweet Milk Gelato. The bright, tangy notes of the sorbet dance on the palate, while the vegan crumble adds a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the succulent berries. A drizzle of olive oil introduces a subtle richness, and the fleur de sel enhances the symphony of flavors, creating a refreshing and harmonious dessert experience.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. LQ House Party
  2. Soy Sauce Mexican Chilies
  3. In the Magic Garden
  4. Na So Fast With the Duck
  5. Too Much of a Not So Good Thing
By: agavin
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Soy Sauce Mexican Chilies

Jun14

Restaurant: Carmen’s con sabor mexicano

Location: 78010 Country Club Dr Ste 400 Palm Desert, CA 92211. (760) 360-4242

Date: September 24, 2024

Cuisine: Mexican

Chef: Carmen Hernández

Rating: Tasty

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We stopped here on our way east.


A random Mexican Di selected on our drive to Palm Desert. Turned out to be pretty decent.

Minimalist interior.


Chips.

Salsa.

Pan Fried Chilis Stuffed with Shrimp. Unusually, these were eaten covered in soy sauce, fresh lemon, and mayo — which was pretty awesome. The vibrant green chilis, blistered to perfection, offered a delightful contrast to the succulent shrimp filling, while the tangy lemon and umami-rich soy sauce elevated the dish, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. Each bite revealed a tantalizing interplay of heat and richness, complemented by the creamy mayo that lingered on the palate.


Guac.

Salad.

Huge Cerviche. A vibrant dish that showcases the freshest seafood marinated in zesty citrus juices, complemented by an array of colorful vegetables and herbs. The interplay of tangy and savory notes creates a refreshing symphony on the palate, while the bright hues of the ingredients tantalize the eye. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of tender fish and crisp vegetables, enveloped in a fragrant aroma that evokes a coastal breeze.

Chili Colorado is a rich and complex dish featuring tender chunks of beef simmered in a vibrant red sauce made from dried chiles, garlic, and spices. The dish delivers a beautiful balance of heat and depth, with each bite revealing layers of flavor that dance on the palate. The deep crimson hue of the sauce captivates the eye, while the tender meat offers a satisfying contrast in texture. Hints of smoky undertones and aromatic spices linger in the air, inviting you to savor every mouthful.

Mixed Fajitas: a sizzling plate of marinated chicken, beef, and shrimp served with grilled peppers and onions. The harmonious blend of smoky, charred flavors tantalizes the palate, while the tender proteins offer a delightful contrast in texture. Each bite is a vibrant celebration of color and aroma, with the warmth of spices enveloping the senses, making it an irresistible choice for any gathering.

Rice and Beans. A classic combination that is both comforting and satisfying. The fluffy rice serves as a perfect canvas for the rich, savory beans, creating a harmonious balance of textures. The earthy aroma envelops the senses, while each bite reveals a delightful interplay of creaminess and subtle umami, accented by a hint of smokiness. The vibrant colors of the dish invite you to savor its hearty simplicity, making it a timeless favorite that warms the soul.

Birria Tacos: A delectable delight showcasing tender, slow-cooked beef marinated in a rich blend of spices, served in warm corn tortillas. The vibrant colors of the dish invite you in, while the aromatic spices create an intoxicating bouquet that dances in the air. Each bite reveals a delightful contrast between the succulent meat and the crisp tortilla, enveloped in a luxurious, savory broth that enhances the overall experience with its depth and complexity.


The gang.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. LQ House Party
  2. Happy Hibi
  3. Na So Fast With the Duck
  4. Too Much Bland Beef
  5. Mexican Swanky – Red O
By: agavin
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Big Boys at Crustacean

Jun12

Restaurant: Crustacean Beverly Hills  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10]

Location: 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 205-8990

Date: September 17, 2024

Cuisine: Vietnamese

Chef: Tony Nguyen

Rating: Amazing again

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Tonight I returned again to Crustacean for the I-don’t-know-how-many-th time.

Crustacean Beverly Hills opened its doors on South Santa Monica Boulevard in 1997, the Southern California outpost of Chef Helene An and the An family’s “House of An” restaurant group that began with San Francisco’s Thanh Long in 1975. Still owned and operated by Helene and her daughters, the restaurant embodies the family’s remarkable immigrant story: flight from Saigon in 1975, the reinvention of heirloom Central Vietnamese recipes on American soil, and a steady rise from a modest deli to a mini-empire that helped mainstream Vietnamese flavors in the United States. Executive chef Tony Nguyen now works alongside “Mama An,” but the beating heart of the kitchen remains the famous “secret kitchen,” a walled-off space accessible only to family members where their legendary garlic noodles, roasted Dungeness crab, and other guarded specialties are prepared. This blend of tradition, secrecy, and calibrated innovation has given Crustacean a cult-like following and a steady stream of celebrities, studio heads, and travelers who come specifically for dishes no competitor seems able to duplicate convincingly.

 

We had this bar area all to ourselves.

A $10-million renovation in 2018 refreshed the two-story space without blunting its sense of occasion: guests enter over a glass-bottom koi pond, dine amid terrazzo floors, living plant walls, and golden bamboo panels, and can move to the An Lounge for cocktails riffing on Southeast Asian herbs. The design mirrors the cuisine’s East-meets-West philosophy—contemporary California polish layered onto Vietnamese imperial court flavors, French technique, and a dash of Hollywood glamour. In a city obsessed with novelty, Crustacean has managed to feel both timeless and current, anchoring Beverly Hills’ dining scene while mentoring a generation of Vietnamese-American chefs and inspiring countless knockoffs of its signature noodles. More than two decades on, it remains one of the few places in Los Angeles where a plate of crab can still feel like a story, a secret, and a celebration all at once.
Chef Tony Nguyen, executive chef and partner at Crustacean Beverly Hills, is a Vietnamese-American Angeleno who came up through a mix of blue-chip fine-dining rooms and bustling Asian kitchens. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, he staged at Per Se and the French Laundry before taking full-time posts at Daniel Boulud’s DB Bistro Moderne in New York, Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak in San Francisco, and modern Vietnamese standard-bearer the Slanted Door. Those stops sharpened both his classical French technique and his understanding of how boldly seasoned Southeast-Asian food can sit comfortably in a white-tablecloth setting. In 2017 Helene An—matriarch of the House of An restaurant group and guardian of the famous “secret kitchen” that produces Crustacean’s garlic noodles—recruited Nguyen first as chef de cuisine and soon after made him her creative partner for the restaurant’s $10-million relaunch.

The 2006 Krug Champagne, a hallmark of luxury from the prestigious Krug house, hails from the Champagne region of France. This vintage showcases a rich and complex profile, with notes of ripe citrus, toasted brioche, and a hint of almond. Best enjoyed with fine seafood dishes or creamy risottos, it epitomizes elegance and depth, making it a perfect celebratory choice.

The 2004 Salon Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil is a remarkable expression of elegance and precision from the Côte des Blancs region of Champagne. Known for its stunning purity, this vintage displays notes of white flowers, citrus zest, and a hint of toasted brioche, complemented by a fine, lingering minerality. Ideal for pairing with delicate seafood dishes or a classic sushi platter, it showcases the essence of Chardonnay in its most refined form.


Fried Something.

Wagyu Smash Burger Fried Potsticker: A delightful fusion of flavors, this dish showcases the rich, buttery essence of wagyu beef encased in a perfectly crispy potsticker skin. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory umami and subtle sweetness, complemented by the gentle crunch of the fried exterior. The aroma wafts enticingly, hinting at the indulgent experience to come, while the vibrant colors of the dish invite you to savor its unique presentation.

Fried Oysters. This was a lot of fried! The golden, crisp exterior yields to a tender, briny interior that bursts with the essence of the sea, while the aroma of the frying oil mingles with the delicate scent of ocean air. Each bite is a harmonious balance of crunch and creaminess, inviting you to savor the rich umami flavor that lingers on the palate, leaving a satisfying finish.

Tuna and Caviar “Cigars.” These delightful bites offer a sophisticated twist on traditional flavors. The delicate, melt-in-your-mouth tuna is perfectly complemented by the briny pop of the caviar, creating a harmonious balance between umami and salinity. Visually striking, they present a beautiful contrast in texture, with the smoothness of the fish juxtaposed against the crisp exterior, inviting you to indulge in their luxurious essence.

The early rounds.

The 2010 Meursault “Les Chevaliers” from Bernard Boisson-Vadot is a stunning white Burgundy that showcases the region’s hallmark richness and minerality. With aromas of ripe pear, toasted hazelnuts, and a hint of citrus zest, this wine unfolds onto a palate that is both creamy and vibrant, revealing layers of stone fruit and a subtle, flinty finish. Pair it beautifully with roasted chicken, lobster, or a creamy risotto to complement its luxurious texture.

The 2011 Meursault-Perrières from Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a stunning example of Premier Cru Chardonnay from Burgundy. With its rich, buttery texture and notes of ripe apple, hazelnut, and a hint of minerality, this wine showcases the finesse of the Meursault terroir. Ideal for pairing with roasted chicken, creamy risotto, or a delicate lobster dish, it offers a luxurious experience that evolves beautifully in the glass.

On the plate, the delicate artistry of Hirame Sashimi unfolds, showcasing translucent white fillets that glisten like fresh morning dew. Each slice is nestled atop a velvety pool of creamy coconut emulsion, its pale hue contrasting strikingly with the deep umber backdrop of the dish. The aroma is a gentle whisper of the ocean, mingling seamlessly with the fragrant notes of fresh herbs and a hint of citrus, enticing the senses. As you take your first bite, the texture is a sublime interplay of tender and silky, melting effortlessly in the mouth, while the unexpected burst of briny caviar adds a delightful pop, harmonizing beautifully with the subtle sweetness of the coconut. A sprinkle of vibrant red pepper flakes provides just a hint of warmth, elevating the experience and inviting you to savor each exquisite layer of flavor.

Fluke Kaluga “hold and cold”: Pei mussel nage, kaffir lime, Thai basil, crispy shallot. Very nice “crudo” with a buttery sauce. I might have liked a bit more acidity. The delicate fluke presents itself in a pristine, translucent layer, inviting the palate with its subtle sweetness, while the fragrant kaffir lime and aromatic Thai basil elevate the experience, adding a refreshing brightness to the rich, velvety nage. The crispy shallots lend a delightful crunch, introducing a contrasting texture that balances the dish beautifully.

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Garennes from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is a stunning expression of Burgundy’s elegance. This Premier Cru showcases a delicate balance of minerality and richness, with notes of white flowers, citrus zest, and a touch of flint. Perfectly paired with seafood dishes like grilled scallops or a classic lobster risotto, this wine’s vibrant acidity and creamy texture elevate any dining experience.

Domaine de Montilla’s 2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Le Cailleret” showcases the essence of Burgundy with its elegant balance of minerality and ripe stone fruit. The wine reveals layers of citrus zest and white flowers, complemented by a subtle oak influence that adds depth. Ideal for pairing with grilled lobster or a creamy risotto, this Chardonnay embodies sophistication and finesse.

 

King Crab ‘Banh Khot’: Coconut bechamel, Osetra caviar. Tasty and rich bite with a definitive coconut flavor. The delicate sweetness of the coconut bechamel harmonizes beautifully with the briny pop of the Osetra caviar, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that contrasts the tender, succulent crab. Visually stunning, the dish presents a vibrant interplay of color that invites you to indulge in its exquisite layers of flavor.

Rich textures and earthy tones dominate the diety, creating a serene backdrop that enhances the culinary experience, encouraging guests to savor each dish as a work of art. This thoughtfully curated environment not only elevates the dining experience but also invites patrons to immerse themselves in a journey of flavors and stories.

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine Louis Latour is a stunning expression of Burgundy’s Grand Cru terroir. Hailing from the renowned Côte de Beaune, this Chardonnay showcases a brilliant balance of richness and acidity. Notes of ripe pear, citrus zest, and subtle oak intertwine, creating a complex palate that lingers beautifully. It pairs exquisitely with roasted lobster or a creamy risotto, enhancing the dish’s luxurious flavors.

The 2021 Meursault-Charmes from Domaine Liger-Belair is an exquisite white Burgundy that showcases the region’s hallmark richness and finesse. With notes of ripe pear, hazelnut, and a whisper of oak, this wine embodies a luxurious texture balanced by vibrant acidity. It pairs beautifully with creamy lobster dishes or rich mushroom risotto, enhancing the umami flavors.

This vintage reflects meticulous care in vineyard management and winemaking, presenting a remarkable depth that invites contemplation. The wine’s mineral undertones resonate with the limestone terroir, making it an ideal match for grilled fish or a classic Coq au Vin, allowing the dish’s flavors to shine.

Next round.

Kohlrabi Caesar. Brown butter brioche crouton, grana padana. This has that interesting crunchy/slimy kohlrabi texture. The dish presents a delightful contrast of textures, with the rich, nutty undertones of the brown butter brioche crouton perfectly complementing the crisp yet yielding kohlrabi. Each bite offers a harmonious interplay of savory flavors, inviting you to explore the delicate balance between creaminess and crunch.

The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine Leflaive showcases the pinnacle of Burgundy’s white wine offerings. With its radiant golden hue, this Chardonnay exudes aromas of ripe stone fruits, white flowers, and a hint of toasted oak. On the palate, it reveals a luxurious texture, balanced acidity, and a long, mineral-driven finish, making it an exceptional companion for dishes like roasted lobster with herb butter or truffle risotto.

The 2016 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Henri Boillot showcases the pinnacle of Burgundy’s white wine excellence. This wine offers a luxurious bouquet of ripe stone fruits, hazelnuts, and subtle oak spice, harmonizing beautifully on the palate with rich, creamy textures and a vibrant mineral backbone. Ideal for pairing with roasted lobster or a delicate truffle risotto, it exemplifies the elegance and complexity characteristic of this esteemed vineyard.

The 2019 Bouchard Père & Fils Grand Cru Montrachet emanates elegance and complexity from the prestigious Burgundy region. This Chardonnay showcases a bouquet of white flowers, ripe peach, and subtle oak, leading to a rich, creamy palate with a mineral backbone. Perfectly paired with buttery lobster or a decadent truffle risotto, this wine exemplifies the artistry of Burgundy winemaking.

The 2021 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru, hailing from Burgundy, showcases the pinnacle of Chardonnay with its opulent texture and complex flavor profile. This vintage offers a harmonious balance of ripe stone fruits, citrus zest, and subtle oak, culminating in a long, mineral-driven finish. Ideal for pairing with grilled lobster or a creamy risotto, it elevates any fine dining experience.

Sushi Rice “Risotto.” Black summer truffle. Very simple, clean, and perfectly cooked. The delicate grains of sushi rice are transformed into a creamy, luxurious base, each morsel exuding a subtle nuttiness that beautifully complements the earthy aroma of the truffle. The dish presents a visually appealing palette of ivory and deep black, inviting you to savor its rich, umami depth while experiencing a delightful interplay of textures that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Château Pavie, a prestigious estate from the Saint-Émilion region, presents its 2000 vintage, renowned for its powerful and opulent style. This wine showcases a deep ruby hue with aromatic layers of dark fruit, truffles, and earthy undertones. With a rich palate and velvety tannins, it pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a rich beef bourguignon, enhancing the savory elements of the dish.

The 2000 Château Palmer, a distinguished Bordeaux from the Margaux region, showcases a captivating blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. This vintage exudes elegance with its rich aromas of dark fruits, floral notes, and subtle spice. On the palate, it reveals velvety tannins and a harmonious balance, making it an exquisite pairing for roasted lamb or a decadent mushroom risotto.

The Château Ausone 2000 from Saint-Émilion is a remarkable blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, showcasing the elegance of this prestigious Grand Cru Classé A. This vintage reveals a complex bouquet of ripe red fruits, floral notes, and subtle spices, with a velvety mouthfeel that elegantly balances its vibrant acidity. Pair it with a gourmet duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto to enhance its nuanced flavors.

With its deep ruby color, the 2000 vintage exemplifies the terroir of Saint-Émilion, where limestone and clay soils impart a unique minerality. The aging potential is immense, allowing the wine to evolve beautifully; it’s a true testament to the artistry of winemaking at Château Ausone. Enjoy it alongside a fine selection of aged cheeses for a memorable experience.

The 2000 Château La Mission Haut-Brion hails from the renowned Pessac-Léognan region of Bordeaux, showcasing a classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. This vintage is celebrated for its deep garnet hue and complex bouquet, revealing notes of dark berries, tobacco, and earthy undertones. On the palate, it delivers a full-bodied experience with velvety tannins and a long, elegant finish, making it an exquisite pairing for rich dishes like braised lamb or a gourmet steak.

Next round.

Bone Marrow “bo kho” dumplings. Lemongrass tomato jus, star anise. Meaty and delicious. The rich, unctuous bone marrow melds seamlessly with the aromatic depth of star anise, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that is both comforting and indulgent. Each bite unveils a harmony of flavors, enhanced by the bright acidity of the lemongrass-infused tomato jus, which cuts through the richness, leaving a tantalizing finish that lingers delightfully on the palate.

The 1982 Château Margaux, a renowned Grand Cru Classé from Margaux, Bordeaux, epitomizes elegance and sophistication. This vintage showcases a rich tapestry of blackcurrant, cedar, and earthy undertones, complemented by velvety tannins and a long, lingering finish. Ideal for pairing with classic dishes such as beef Wellington or a decadent duck confit, this wine is a testament to the artistry of winemaking.

With its deep ruby hue and complex bouquet, the 1982 Château Margaux presents both power and finesse, making it a perfect choice for celebrations or special occasions. The wine’s balance and depth make it equally delightful when enjoyed on its own or alongside aged cheeses, enhancing its intricate flavor profile.

The 1990 Grand Vin de Château Latour hails from the esteemed Pauillac region of Bordeaux, renowned for producing some of the world’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon blends. This vintage is characterized by its deep, concentrated flavors of dark fruit, tobacco, and earth, with a velvety texture and a long, lingering finish. It pairs beautifully with roasted lamb or a rich beef stew, enhancing the dish’s depth and complexity.

Château Latour’s first growth status is evident in this wine’s impressive structure and aging potential, making it a superb choice for special occasions or a luxurious dinner. The harmonious balance of acidity and tannins ensures that this wine will continue to evolve gracefully over the coming decades.

Château l’Evangile, Pomerol, 1998 is a sublime expression of its terroir, showcasing ripe black cherry and plum notes intertwined with hints of truffle and earthy undertones. Its velvety tannins provide a luxurious mouthfeel, complemented by a long, elegant finish. This wine pairs beautifully with herb-crusted lamb or a rich duck confit, enhancing the savory flavors of the dish.

Five Spices Duck. Luxardo cherry ponzu, confit dumpling, sunchoke. Insanely good. I ate two and could have gone for another. The duck, perfectly seared to achieve a luscious, crispy skin, is enveloped in a symphony of five spices that dance delicately on the palate. Enhanced by the bright acidity of the Luxardo cherry ponzu and the earthy richness of the confit dumpling, each bite is a harmonious blend of flavor and texture that lingers delightfully long after the last morsel has vanished.

The 1986 Château Lafite Rothschild, hailing from the Pauillac region of Bordeaux, is a quintessential expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. With its deep ruby color, this vintage unfolds with aromas of blackcurrant, cedar, and earthy undertones, culminating in a palate that balances rich fruit with elegant tannins. Perfectly paired with a perfectly grilled lamb rack, it enhances the meal with its complexity and depth.

From the same esteemed producer, the 2010 Château Lafite Rothschild showcases the potential of the Lafite estate in a modern context. This vintage offers a bouquet of ripe dark fruits, tobacco, and hints of graphite, while the palate is opulent and structured, displaying remarkable finesse. This wine pairs beautifully with a rich beef Wellington, amplifying the dish’s savory elements.

Château Cheval Blanc, a prestigious producer from the Saint-Émilion region, offers a 1989 vintage that exemplifies the elegance of Bordeaux wines. This Right Bank gem is a blend predominantly of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, showcasing a lush fruit profile intertwined with notes of leather, spice, and earthy undertones. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity make it a perfect pairing with rich dishes such as duck confit or aged cheeses, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The 2010 Château Pétrus, an iconic wine from Pomerol, showcases the elegance and depth of Merlot in this esteemed region. With its velvety texture and complex layers of ripe black fruits, truffle, and subtle spice, this vintage exemplifies the hallmark richness of Pétrus. Ideal for pairing with a perfectly cooked filet mignon or rich mushroom dishes, it promises a sumptuous experience.

Final waves.

A5 Wagyu “Shaken Beef.” Chrysanthemum, crispy potato. Yum! The succulent marbling of the Wagyu melts in your mouth, offering a rich umami that is beautifully balanced by the fresh, floral notes of chrysanthemum. The crispy potato adds a delightful crunch, creating a harmonious contrast in texture that elevates each bite into a symphony of flavor.

An’s Famous Garlic Noodles: Roasted garlic & An’s secret sauce. Always great. The rich aroma of roasted garlic envelops the senses, while the silky noodles glisten with a luscious sheen, inviting you to indulge. Each bite unfolds layers of savory depth, harmonizing the umami of the secret sauce with a delicate hint of sweetness that lingers delightfully on the palate.

The Château d’Yquem 1990, hailing from the Sauternes region of Bordeaux, is a sublime expression of this renowned estate. This vintage showcases a luscious balance of rich honeyed notes, apricot, and exotic spices, enveloped in a velvety texture. Perfectly paired with foie gras or blue cheese, this wine offers an indulgent experience that elevates any dessert to new heights.

Poached Emerald Plumcot. Tahitian vanilla ice cream. Superb for this sort of dessert with a “Christmas” sort of flavor from the spices. The vibrant hues of the plumcot create a striking visual contrast against the creamy, velvety texture of the ice cream, while the aromatic spices weave a warm, inviting scent that dances playfully on the palate. Each bite provides a harmonious balance of tartness and sweetness, evoking a sense of seasonal nostalgia with every mouthful.

Château d’Yquem, Sauternes, 2001 is a sublime example of a world-renowned dessert wine. This vintage showcases an opulent sweetness balanced by vibrant acidity, offering notes of candied apricot, honey, and a hint of exotic spices. It pairs beautifully with foie gras or rich blue cheeses, as well as fruit-based desserts.

Mint Oreo Chocolate Chip Gelato (by Sweet Milk, aka me) is a delightful blend of creamy mint-infused gelato, studded with crunchy Oreo cookie pieces and rich chocolate chips. The cool, refreshing mint envelops the palate, while the contrasting textures of the smooth gelato and the crispy cookies create a harmonious experience. Each spoonful is a symphony of flavors, with the vibrant green hue inviting you to indulge in its refreshing allure.


This was an amazing dinner. Not only was the company great and this one of those wonderful “off menu” An meals, but the wines were incredible!

Sandy and Michael goof off.

Here we have a delightful guest, bringing warmth and charm to the evening’s culinary experience.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  2. Crustacean Cru
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  4. Cheval Crustacean
  5. Bad Boys at Michael’s
By: agavin
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Too Much of a Not So Good Thing

Jun10

Restaurant: Chubby Cattle

Location: 127 W Main St, Alhambra, CA 91801. (626) 872-0616

Date: August 25, 2024

Cuisine: Fake Yakiniku

Rating: Fun, but bland and meh quality

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Chubby Cattle’s Alhambra branch opened in 2018 on Valley Boulevard, becoming the first California outpost for Chubby Cattle International, the hospitality group founded by Chinese-American entrepreneur David Zhao and partner Haibin Yang. The pair had launched the original Chubby Cattle in Las Vegas two years earlier with the goal of modernizing traditional Mongolian and Chinese hot pot through technology, premium sourcing, and a touch of theatrical flair—an approach they call “Farm to Chopsticks.” Success in Nevada, Colorado, and Pennsylvania set the stage for an expansion into the San Gabriel Valley, a region already famous for Chinese dining; Zhao, who spent part of his childhood nearby, saw Alhambra as fertile ground for a next-generation food experiences.


Chevy and Bovon are a bit obsessed with this AYCE Chinese-run Yakiniku place. I haven’t gone because normally it’s all about waits and crowds.

But tonight we had a reservation for the private room. Still, there was a 2-hour “time limit” on the food — which wasn’t actually a problem at all, but was a source of stress.

The private room was huge and pretty cool — if a little sloppy in that classic Chinese way.

Banchan is fairly anemic. The small side dishes, traditionally served alongside Korean meals, lacked the vibrant colors and bold flavors expected from this culinary staple. Each dish felt muted, offering little in terms of texture and taste, which left me yearning for the delightful crunch of pickled vegetables and the umami richness of seasoned proteins. The absence of complexity in both presentation and flavor was a missed opportunity to showcase the harmonious balance that banchan can achieve.


Salad wasn’t bad.

On the plate, a delicate presentation of daikon radish wraps beckons lamely.

Meh sushi. Rice was warm and hardly vinegared at all. Fish was slightly warm. Better than supermarket sushi, but not great at all. The delicate balance of flavors was overshadowed by the overt warmth, which dulled the freshness of the fish and left a lingering sense of disappointment. Visually, it lacked the vibrant allure characteristic of expertly crafted sushi, with textures that failed to harmonize and create a truly memorable dining experience.


Prolapsed beef anuses. Stuffed with rice. There was also a very with BBQ eel on top. I ate off the eels.

Abalone.

Frozen lobster tails.

On a lavishly adorned plate, the dish Grilled Lobster Tail with Garlic Butter presents itself flaccidly.

Scallops (pretty good).

Shrimp.

On the grill.
The meat boxes.

Dry ice for show.

Presented with an air of understated elegance, the Wagyu invites a sensory exploration that begins with its exquisite marbling, a delicate interplay of ivory and rosy pink that promises indulgence. As the lid is lifted, a fragrant waft of umami-rich allure envelops the senses, hinting at the luxurious flavors to come. But they have little to show for it on the grill.

Cubes of wagyu. They claim a lot of this is A5 (or better?) — but I’m pretty darn sure it’s not real Japanese wagyu. The marbling is visually striking, with a rich, buttery sheen that hints at its tenderness. Each bite offers a luxurious melt-in-your-mouth experience, releasing a savory umami richness that lingers delightfully on the palate.


Sauce for the cubes was good. This was about the only sauce we got.

 


More meats. It’s AYCE so you can keep getting them.

Tough!

 

Lamb chops. Sort of ok.

Chocolate Orange Gelato is a delightful fusion of rich, creamy chocolate and zesty orange. The velvety texture envelops your palate, while the bright citrus notes dance playfully, creating a refreshing balance. Each spoonful is a harmonious blend of indulgence and brightness, with the deep, dark hues of chocolate contrasting vividly against the vibrant orange, inviting you to savor every luxurious bite.

Ice cream: They gave some not-too-bad ice cream. Nothing near as good as Sweet Milk, of course.


Overall, this was a super fun night, but the food really isn’t that great. Plentiful, yes, but the protein quality is B, and they don’t marinate nearly enough. Sauces are minimal. And really importantly, their grills are electric. Those just suck. Charcoal or even gas is the way to go. Really just charcoal.

The 2006 Amarone Classico della Valpolicella from Giuseppe Quintarelli is a benchmark for the region. With a deep garnet hue, it offers rich aromas of dried cherries, figs, and a hint of spice. The palate is full-bodied and velvety, showcasing a beautiful balance of fruit and acidity, with notes of dark chocolate and a lingering finish. This wine pairs exceptionally well with hearty dishes like braised meats or aged cheeses.

The 2012 Sancerre Clos de Chauden from Domaine Daulin is a refined expression of Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. With vibrant notes of citrus and green apple, this wine displays a crisp minerality characteristic of its terroir. Ideal for pairing with fresh seafood or goat cheese, it showcases the elegance of a well-crafted Sancerre.

This vintage embodies a harmonious balance between acidity and fruit, making it a delightful choice for those looking to explore the nuances of high-quality white wines. The lingering finish leaves a refreshing impression, perfect for warm evenings or celebratory occasions.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Na So Fast With the Duck
  2. Too Much Bland Beef
  3. LQ House Party
  4. Happy Hibi
By: agavin
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Na So Fast With the Duck

Jun08

Restaurant: Bistro Na’s [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 9055 Las Tunas Dr, Temple City, CA 91780. (626) 286-1999

Date: September 15, 2024

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Tian Yong

Rating: Still very good, but bring back the duck!

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Bistro Na’s slipped into a modest Temple City strip mall in the spring of 2016, but the project was anything but modest. It is the first U.S. outpost of Beijing’s celebrated Najia Xiaoguan group, owned by the Na family, whose ancestors once served as imperial physicians to the Qing court. The Los Angeles restaurant is run day-to-day by general manager Jack Na, with menu oversight from corporate executive chef Tian Yong, who trains the local kitchen in the parent company’s exacting techniques. That pedigree explains both the ambition of the enterprise and its swift ascent: within three years it claimed a Michelin star, the first ever awarded to a Chinese restaurant in Southern California.

The kitchen’s guiding philosophy is to revive “imperial cuisine” for contemporary diners—dishes that balance Manchu and Han traditions, meticulous knife work, and lavish ingredients while keeping oil and seasoning surprisingly restrained. Signatures such as smoky “Peking-style” pork ribs, lychee-shaped sweet-and-sour shrimp, and chilled tofu custard arrive on porcelain as ornate as the food itself. The dining room extends the theme; behind carved wooden doors lie jade-green banquettes, cobalt-blue high-back chairs, and latticed screens that make the space feel like a palace transplanted into the San Gabriel Valley. In a region famous for its everyday noodle shops and dumpling houses, Bistro Na’s occupies a singular niche: a special-occasion destination that reminds local diners—and visiting food pilgrims—that Chinese cuisine can be as ceremonious and haute as any French tasting menu. Its presence has raised the bar for upscale Chinese dining in greater Los Angeles and broadened the conversation about what constitutes fine dining in the SGV.


We return to Bistro Na six months later — but alas, they claimed they are having trouble “sourcing” their Peking Duck, so that wasn’t available. Of course, we did book a private room — you have to for the real experience.

 

Private room again, of course!

Beijing-born executive chef Tian Yong came up through some of the Chinese capital’s most exacting kitchens, spending more than a decade at the original Na Jia Xiao Guan—an institution famous for reviving Qing-dynasty court dishes—and cooking at state banquets for visiting dignitaries before being tapped to lead the first overseas branch, Bistro Na’s, in Temple City in 2017. His classical training in Manchu-Han imperial technique shows in the knife work and labor-intensive sauces, yet years spent in California have taught him to lean on the purity of West-Coast produce and lighter seasonings. Under his watch the restaurant became the San Gabriel Valley’s first Michelin-starred Chinese dining room (earning and keeping a star in the 2019 and 2021 California Guides) and has appeared on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best Restaurants” list as well as Eater LA’s “Essential 38.”

Tian’s signature style is equal parts ceremonial and contemporary: lacquered “Prince Na’s” pork belly layered like a jewel box, sea cucumber braised until tremulous in mahogany-dark master stock, and cumin-perfumed lamb chops that nod to northern China while embracing the vigor of Southern California farmers-market herbs. Influences range from the palatial archives of the Manchu court to the precise French techniques he studied to refine plating and temperature control; the connecting thread is a devotion to balance—fat against acid, crunch against silk, nostalgia against surprise. The chef’s guiding philosophy is that imperial cuisine was never meant to be static: each generation of cooks is duty-bound to keep the spirit of refinement alive by adapting to the best ingredients at hand and the tastes of the moment. At Bistro Na’s that means elevating banquet traditions to a format that feels intimate rather than ostentatious, and letting every meticulously carved cucumber blossom or swallow-nest broth remind diners that elegance and generosity can—and should—share the same table.

Beef tripe and aorta in chili sauce. Sounds scary but was lovely. Nice crunchy, chewy texture. The dish presents an inviting crimson hue, with the chili sauce glistening under a delicate sheen. Each bite offers a harmonious interplay of heat and umami, complemented by the rich, meaty flavor of the tripe and the tender resilience of the aorta, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for another taste.

 

Pig’s Foot Jelly. These were the best I’ve had. Nicely porcine and delicious. The dish presents a beautiful amber hue, glistening with a delicate sheen that invites the eye. Each spoonful offers a luscious, gelatinous texture that melts effortlessly on the palate, releasing a rich, savory depth accented by subtle herbal notes.

 

 

Na’s Secret Tofu. Not that secret. Great texture. Slightly bland. Joe dish. The tofu presents itself with an inviting golden hue, its surface gently crisped to a delicate crunch that gives way to a velvety interior. While the seasoning may lack a bold punch, the subtle earthiness of the dish invites exploration, encouraging the diner to appreciate the nuanced interplay of flavor and texture.

Scallion Pancake. Another Joe dish, but an excellent version. The golden-brown exterior offers a satisfying crispness, giving way to a tender, layered interior infused with the aromatic essence of fresh scallions. Each bite provides a delightful balance of textures, while the savory notes dance on the palate, inviting you to savor the experience even longer.

Egg and chive “pockets.” The shells weren’t as crisp as I might have liked, but there were lots of fresh chives. The vibrant green of the chives contrasted beautifully with the delicate, pale yellow filling, offering a subtle yet aromatic herbal note that danced on the palate. Each bite revealed a gentle creaminess, complemented by the slight earthiness of the chives, creating a harmonious balance that lingered pleasantly in the mouth.

Spicy Tofu with Cod: Basically MaPo tofu with bits of cod. This added a delectable umami note. The dish presents a vibrant interplay of textures, where the silken tofu contrasts beautifully with the tender morsels of cod, all enveloped in a fragrant, spicy sauce that tantalizes the senses. The aroma is a complex symphony of spices, inviting you to indulge in its rich, savory depths.

 

Seafood Crispy Rice is a delightful dish that combines a medley of fresh seafood with crispy rice, creating an irresistible crunch. The vibrant colors of the seafood juxtaposed with the golden-brown rice present a feast for the eyes. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of savory umami and a subtle sweetness, enhanced by the aromatic notes of fresh herbs. The texture is a pleasing interplay of crispiness and tenderness, making it a truly satisfying culinary experience.

Here is the crispy rice and the hot seafood was poured over it—basically like those old “war bar” dishes at 1970s Chinese restaurants. The contrasting textures of the crunchy rice and the tender seafood create a delightful interplay, while the aromatic steam wafts up, inviting you to indulge. Each bite is a harmonious blend of savory umami and subtle sweetness, with the vibrant colors of the seafood adding an enticing visual appeal that captivates the senses.

Seafood Crispy Rice. Really fabulous. Lovely mellow yellow curry sauce, with sea cucumber and other goodles. So good over the rice. The dish presents a vibrant palette of golden hues, inviting you to dive into its rich, comforting embrace. Each bite reveals a harmonious interplay of textures, from the satisfying crunch of the crispy rice to the silky smoothness of the curry, while the oceanic notes of the sea cucumber add a subtle depth that lingers beautifully on the palate.

Cabbage with Dried Shrimp. They went back to the proper torn texture. The dish presents a stunning contrast of vibrant green cabbage, its leaves glistening with a subtle sheen, and the umami-rich dried shrimp that add a delicate crunch. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of earthy sweetness and briny depth, inviting you to savor the aromatic interplay of flavors and textures.

Fish Maw and Crab Liver Soup. Incredible again. So rich and umami with a great thick and chewy texture. The dish presents a luxurious golden hue, inviting the senses with its subtle briny aroma. Each spoonful envelops the palate in a velvety embrace, where the delicate sweetness of the crab liver beautifully balances the savory depth of the fish maw.


Simple fish. Too boring for my taste — but many people in the group love it.

Old Beijing Smoked Duck Breast: Duck breast, strawberry sauce, endive lettuce. The tender duck breast is beautifully infused with a smoky aroma, its rich, gamey flavor perfectly complemented by the bright, tangy sweetness of the strawberry sauce. The crisp endive adds a refreshing crunch, creating a delightful balance of textures that elevates each bite into an exquisite culinary experience.

Drunken Chicken. Very nice flavor, but not zingy enough for me. The dish presents a tantalizing mosaic of rich, savory hues, with the tender morsels of chicken infused with aromatic herbs and a subtle hint of umami. Each bite offers a delightful contrast between the succulent meat and the fragrant sauce, creating a comforting yet complex experience on the palate.

Pan Fried Beef Buns: Very nicely flavored beef and chive filling. Pretty temperature hot at the start and could have used a little vinegar/dumpling sauce to balance the hot fat. The golden-brown exterior offers a delightful contrast to the tender, juicy filling, while the aroma of savory beef and fresh chives wafts enticingly, inviting you to take a bite. Each mouthful delivers a satisfying crunch followed by a burst of rich flavors, creating a harmonious balance that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Fried Mixed Mushrooms with Rice Cracker Bites. OMG, these were like potato-stick crack. They felt “hollow,” crispy, and coated in an almost candied shell. So good! The earthy notes of the mushrooms harmonized beautifully with the subtle sweetness of the shell, creating a delightful contrast in both flavor and texture. Each bite offered a satisfying crunch, releasing a bouquet of umami that lingered enticingly on the palate.

Shrimp and Dried Seafood Fried Rice. Oh so good. The vibrant medley of colors in this dish is as enticing as its aroma, with the succulent shrimp glistening against the backdrop of perfectly cooked, fluffy rice. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of briny seafood notes and subtle umami, complemented by a whisper of smokiness that lingers long after the last morsel has been savored.


With a bit of tofu on it.

Mountain Yam in brown sauce. My least favorite dish — just because it was starchy. The earthy notes of the mountain yam were somewhat subdued by the syrupy brown sauce, which clung to each piece, creating a slightly gelatinous texture. Despite its lack of appeal to my palate, the dish offered an intriguing contrast of color, with the rich brown sauce enveloping the pale, creamy yam, presenting a modest yet inviting appearance.

Braised Abalone & Pork Belly with Chinese Puffy Pie — very Chinese fancy. Great version of this classic Shanghai dish — plus abalone. The pork was super succulent, and the sweet brown sauce had a nice depth of star anise. Each bite of the tender abalone melded beautifully with the rich, luscious pork belly, while the delicate, flaky puffy pie added a textural contrast that was both satisfying and exquisite. The aromatic notes of the star anise lingered in the air, enhancing the overall sensory experience of this delightful dish.

Puffy Pie (aka sesame bun). This delightful creation features a soft, pillowy texture with a golden-brown exterior that beckons you closer. The nutty aroma of toasted sesame seeds wafts through the air, enticing the senses. Each bite reveals a delicate balance of sweetness and earthiness, complemented by the subtle crunch of the seeds that provides a satisfying contrast to the airy interior.

Crispy Lamb Belly. Great dish, but I was getting full. The succulent lamb belly, with its golden-brown crispiness, offers a delightful contrast between the tender meat and its crackling exterior. Each bite is a harmonious blend of savory richness, enhanced by subtle notes of herbs that linger on the palate, while the aroma evokes a rustic warmth that invites you to savor every morsel.

Mint Oreo and Chocolate Orange Gelato is a delightful combination that I can’t get enough of. The creamy gelato delivers a refreshing burst of mint, harmoniously layered with the rich, velvety notes of chocolate orange. Each scoop presents a visual feast, with vibrant green and deep cocoa swirls enticing the eye, while the contrasting textures of smooth gelato and crunchy Oreo pieces provide a playful mouthfeel. The aroma is a captivating blend of sweet chocolate and invigorating mint, making each indulgent bite a multi-sensory experience that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Bistro Na’s menu features a delightful array of dessert options, highlighting creative flavor combinations such as Chocolate Orange and Mint Oreo, showcasing both classic indulgences and modern twists on beloved favorites.


Fruit.

The dish, a masterful creation known as Gâteau de Mamie, presents itself as a golden-hued triumph, its sun-kissed crust glistening with a delicate sheen that beckons the eye. As you draw closer, the air is infused with the nostalgic aroma of caramelized sugar mingling with the warm, buttery notes of pastry, promising a rich experience. The texture is a harmonious contrast; the outer layer is crisp and flaky, yielding to reveal a tender, airy interior that melts effortlessly on the palate. Each bite unveils a symphony of flavors, where the sweetness is perfectly balanced by a hint of salt, evoking memories of cherished family gatherings and celebrations. This cake is not merely a dessert; it is an invitation to savor life’s simplest pleasures.

Crepe Cake — delicious. This delicate stack of paper-thin crepes, layered with velvety cream, offers a sublime experience that is both visually stunning and texturally enchanting. The subtle sweetness of each crepe harmonizes beautifully with the rich filling, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor each exquisite bite.


Candies.

Chocolate Potato Chips are a delightful combination of sweet and salty, where crisp, thin potato chips are enrobed in a rich layer of dark chocolate. The initial crunch of the chip gives way to a velvety smoothness of chocolate that lingers on the palate, creating a harmonious contrast that is both unexpected and satisfying. The glossy sheen of the chocolate, paired with the rustic texture of the chip, invites you to indulge further, while the aroma of cocoa mingles enticingly with the savory notes of the potato, resulting in a snack that is both comforting and sophisticated.


The works.

The wines were great tonight.

Another super fun evening. Bistro Na was on fire tonight, and the only problem was that they “were out of” the peking duck. They told us they are having problems with sourcing it — I wonder if it’s just too labor-intensive. Hopefully, they bring it back. But we had lots of other amazing dishes. As we began at 4:30 pm, we had plenty of time for an early foot massage!

 

For more LA dining reviews click here.

 

 

Related posts:

  1. LQ House Party
  2. Happy Hibi
  3. NC Peking Duck – Double Duck part 2
  4. Tomato Wednesday!
  5. Bistro Na avec Duck
By: agavin
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Too Much Bland Beef

Jun06

Restaurant: Niku X V2 [1, 2]

Location: 900 Wilshire Blvd Suite 212, Los Angeles, CA 90017. (213) 296-8783

Date: September 13, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese

Chef: Shin Thompson

Rating: I don’t really like Buffets

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Niku X made its debut in January 2023, high above the bustle of Downtown Los Angeles on the ninth floor of the Wilshire Grand Center. The project is the first Los Angeles venture from Orange County–based restaurateur Dario Liu and Michelin-recognized chef Shin Thompson, operating under Liu’s Kei Concepts hospitality group. Their shared aim is to reimagine traditional Japanese yakiniku through a cosmopolitan, Californian lens: pristine A5 wagyu and heritage-breed American beef are paired with farmers-market produce, French technique, and a dash of theatrical tableside cooking. The restaurant’s very name—“niku” means “meat” in Japanese, the “X” symbolizing collaboration—signals the crossroads of cultures that defines its culinary philosophy.

Design amplifies the drama. Local firm Tag Front wrapped the 180-seat room in dark walnut screens, Nero Marquina marble, and glinting brass ventilation hoods, all oriented toward panoramic windows that frame the downtown skyline. Each table is equipped with a smokeless grill fueled by white-hot binchōtan, encouraging guests to sear their own ribbons of wagyu or seasonal vegetables lacquered in black-garlic tare. A $245, 14-course omakase might open with Hokkaido uni toast and foie-gras chawanmushi, zigzag through wagyu tartare studded with Kaluga caviar, and climax in Thompson’s signature sukiyaki rice bowl shaved with truffle—an experience that feels equal parts fine dining and interactive supper club.

In a neighborhood long dominated by classic steakhouses and casual taquerías, Niku X has quickly positioned itself as downtown’s luxury shrine to beef. Early acclaim from critics and a celebrity-studded clientele has helped revive the financial district’s after-dark energy, placing the restaurant alongside spots like Bestia and Bavel in conversations about DTLA’s culinary renaissance. By marrying uncompromising ingredient sourcing with a participatory grill-at-the-table format, Niku X embodies the city’s current food ethos: globally informed, ingredient-obsessed, and unabashedly show-stopping.

But evidently this wasn’t working out perfectly, because in 2024 they pivoted hard to an All You Can Eat Buffet concept. More or less their same food, but with less staff and even less artistry. My first visit, in it’s previous and now defunct form can be found here.

The interior of this contemporary yakiniku restaurant exudes a harmonious blend of modern minimalism and traditional Japanese aesthetics — combined with a general Chinese “frugality.”


The Chubby chain’s “flagship” has failed at being a full-service Japanese steakhouse and so now converted to a $99 “high-end” buffet.

No one touched the salad section. Kinda weird, too.

Various ok raw fish snacks, constantly out of stock (and constantly refilled).

Some random carbs. The tempura actually wasn’t too bad.

The A5 was pretty serious. There were supposed to be limits, but they weren’t enforced. Very unseasoned, however. The marbling danced across the surface, glistening with a rich, buttery sheen that promised a decadent experience. As I savored each tender bite, the deep umami notes mingled with a subtle sweetness, enveloping my palate in a luxurious embrace that lingered long after the last morsel was gone.


Frozen (and thawed) seafood. The shrimp were okay.

The lobsters and crab legs, although frozen, were certainly plentiful. Sauces were okay here. Their drawn butter sucked (it was cheap, flavorless butter). The vibrant reds and deep blues of the seafood create a visual feast, while the texture of the tender meat contrasts with the slight chill of the ice. Despite the lackluster butter, the natural brininess of the ocean still lingers on the palate, offering a glimpse of the coastal flavors that could have been.


Desserts were kinda pathetic.

The 2002 Meursault-Perrières 1er Cru from Robert Ampeau & Fils is a stunning representation of Burgundy’s elegance. Hailing from the celebrated Meursault region, this white Burgundy showcases a rich tapestry of flavors, with notes of ripe pear, toasted hazelnuts, and a whisper of minerality. Its creamy texture and vibrant acidity make it an exquisite companion for dishes like lobster or creamy risotto, enhancing the dining experience with its luxurious mouthfeel.


My first plate.

A5 Zabuton, shio kombu rice, jidori egg yolk, sukiyaki sauce. You only get one of these per person. Sad as it was one of the best things. Probably a labor thing. The A5 Zabuton, marbled to perfection, offers a rich umami that melts luxuriously on the palate, while the shio kombu rice provides a subtle brininess that enhances the dish’s depth. The silky jidori egg yolk adds a luscious creaminess, and the sweet-savory sukiyaki sauce rounds out the experience, creating a harmonious symphony of flavors that linger delightfully in the mouth.


Some meat on the grill. The grills were really hot and very easy to burn these high-fat meats.

Just one of endless piles of meat we grabbed. There was certainly a lot of meat.

Sukiyaki: We did get 2 sukiyaki pots. I enjoyed getting A5 from the regular buffet and just cooking it in here — actually gave it some flavor. The rich marbling of the A5 beef rendered beautifully, infusing the broth with a luscious umami depth, while the vibrant vegetables added a refreshing crunch and a pop of color to the dish. Each bite was a harmonious blend of savory and sweet, capturing the essence of this traditional Japanese delicacy.


Meat for the sukiyaki.

Morning grilling.

Lamb chops. Not sure why these were fried. The golden-brown crust adds a delightful crunch, contrasting beautifully with the tender, juicy meat beneath. Each bite releases a savory aroma, enriched by the subtle notes of rosemary and garlic, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate.

Oxtail potstickers. Not too bad. The delicate wrappers are pan-fried to a perfect golden crisp, while the rich, savory filling of tender oxtail offers a luxurious umami experience with every bite. The aroma wafts enticingly, hinting at the depth of flavor within, while the contrasting textures of the crispy exterior and succulent filling create a delightful harmony on the palate.

Arugula and Blood Orange Gelatos – A refreshing and vibrant combination that dances on the palate. The earthy, slightly peppery notes of arugula harmonize beautifully with the bright, citrusy sweetness of blood orange, creating a delightful contrast. The creamy texture of the gelato envelops the taste buds, while the vivid colors of the dish evoke the feeling of a sun-drenched orchard, enticing both the eye and the senses. Each spoonful offers a balance of invigorating flavors, making it a truly unique and memorable experience.


Not the best wines we’ve ever brought. The chaotic buffet eating style didn’t lend itself well to any kind of savoring.

The crew. Overall, this was a fun night, and certainly it’s a great deal. But there is no refinement, and it’s very chaotic and haphazard. They don’t use the best quality of everything (although the A5 is very good), and there is no artistry at all. It’s pretty much self-season and sauce — and their sauce game is really poor. So not for me. I prefer a decent (super spicy) hot pot, actually, as there is more flavor.



A little too much wine.

 

 

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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  5. Happy Hibi
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

LQ House Party

Jun04

Location: Villa Malka

Date: September 7, 2024

Cuisine: French

Chef: Laurent Quenioux

 

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We hosted a private dinner at home for some friends and so of course we brought back in our favorite private chef: Laurent Quenioux.

French-born chef Laurent Quenioux grew up in France’s Sologne Valley, apprenticing at age sixteen at the legendary Troisgros in Roanne before polishing his classical chops at institutions such as Jacques Cagna in Paris and Relais & Châteaux properties throughout the Loire. He came to the United States in the early 1980s, first cooking at 1789 in Washington, D.C., then settling in Los Angeles, where his résumé expanded to L’Orangerie, the Regency Club and other fine–dining addresses. Quenioux made his own mark with 7th Street Bistro downtown (earning a coveted three-star Los Angeles Times review), the cult-favorite Bistro K in Pasadena, and a long stint as opening chef at Vertical Wine Bistro. In 2009 he opened Bistro LQ on Beverly Boulevard, which quickly became the city’s unofficial clubhouse for cooks, sommeliers and adventurous diners.

Quenioux’s food marries rigorous French technique with a mischievous, almost punk-rock curiosity: venison tartare might arrive under shaved frozen foie gras, or a composed cheese course could feature stilton ice cream draped with bee pollen and white truffle honey. He is notoriously enamored of wild game, foraged mushrooms, California farmers-market produce and the odd entomological flourish (meal-worm–crusted gougères, anyone?), yet the plates remain elegant rather than gimmicky. Influences range from the nouvelle-cuisine minimalism of Michel Guérard to the ingredient-driven spontaneity of contemporary California cooking, all filtered through Quenioux’s own restless palate and a keen respect for seasonality.

Accolades have followed wherever he cooks: multiple “Best of” nods from LA Weekly, appearances at the James Beard House, and glowing write-ups from Jonathan Gold, who praised the chef’s “thrilling, almost reckless imagination.” The guiding philosophy at Bistro LQ is an open-ended conversation between tradition and invention—trust in craft enough to break its rules, use the market as a compass, and never underestimate the diner’s appetite for surprise. Tasting menus change nightly, wine (or craft-beer) pairings are devised with equal whimsy, and Quenioux himself often emerges from the kitchen to solicit feedback, reinforcing his belief that cuisine is a living, collaborative art rather than a fixed canon.



LQ’s lovely team.

Petit chou with avocado mousse and kiwi. Danger: eat all in one bite! The delicate pastry shell cradles a velvety avocado mousse that dances on the palate, while the vibrant kiwi adds a refreshing burst of acidity. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of creamy and fruity notes, beautifully complemented by the vivid green hues that entice the eye and awaken the senses.

Smoked Salmon Tartare – A delightful medley of fresh salmon, finely chopped and expertly seasoned, served with a touch of citrus and accompanied by crispy crackers. The vibrant coral hue of the salmon is perfectly complemented by the zesty notes of lemon, while the texture is a harmonious balance of silky smoothness and satisfying crunch. Each bite delivers a nuanced interplay of flavors, with the smoky undertones enhancing the inherent richness of the fish, making it a truly exquisite culinary experience.


Yum!

Cheese straws puff pastry with tarragon ranch. These delightful bites are a perfect union of flaky pastry and rich, savory cheese, elevated by the aromatic whispers of tarragon in the ranch dip. The golden-brown straws boast a satisfying crunch that gives way to a creamy interior, while the tarragon ranch adds a refreshing herbaceous note, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the palate with every bite.

Our special menu for tonight.

The setting.

Bread and Butter Bordier from Brittany, France. The butter is so good. Its rich, creamy texture envelops the palate, while the delicate, slightly nutty flavor of the Bordier butter elevates the humble bread to a luxurious experience. The golden hue of the butter glistens enticingly, promising a taste that is both indulgent and unforgettable.

Smoked Trout. Fresh goat cheese mousse | smoked trout roe | apricot lane farm egg salad | herbs. Loved this smoky dish. The smoky essence of the trout beautifully intertwines with the creamy goat cheese mousse, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that is both rich and refreshing. The vibrant colors of the dish, complemented by the delicate herbs, invite you to indulge, while the subtle sweetness of the apricot lane farm egg salad adds a delightful contrast to the savory elements, making each bite a harmonious experience.

Wild Turbot: kimchi choron | corn | corn vol au vent. Perfectly cooked. The turbot’s delicate flesh gleamed with a subtle sheen, inviting the senses to explore its mild sweetness, while the vibrant kimchi choron added a piquant contrast that awakened the palate. Accompanied by the airy corn vol au vent, each bite was a harmonious interplay of textures, with the dish’s colors echoing the artistry of a painter’s palette.

Arugula Gelato (by me) with arugula oil, EVOO, and sea salt. Gelato salad — and perfect! The vibrant green hue of the gelato is striking, inviting you to indulge, while the delicate swirl of arugula oil adds a fragrant herbaceous note. Each spoonful offers a creamy texture that melts effortlessly, balanced by the subtle saltiness that enhances the natural peppery flavor of the arugula, creating a refreshing and unexpected culinary experience.

Salmon with grapes for the pescatarians. This dish is a beautiful marriage of flavors, where the rich, buttery texture of the salmon is perfectly complemented by the sweet, juicy bursts of grapes. The vibrant colors of the dish invite the senses, while the delicate aroma of the fish mingles with the subtle notes of fruit, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the palate.

Stuffed Quail: Foie gras | traditional stuffing | port wine jus | grapes. Smelled so good! The quail, perfectly roasted to a golden brown, exuded a rich aroma that was both earthy and indulgent. Each bite revealed a tender, succulent interior, harmoniously complemented by the sweet, velvety port wine jus and the subtle tartness of the grapes, creating a delightful balance of flavors that lingered elegantly on the palate.

Wagyu Beef Cheek. Pearl onions | Bourguignon style | Oyster mushrooms | Leeks 2 ways. This dish captivates with its velvety texture, where the rich, marbled beef cheek melts effortlessly in your mouth, harmonizing beautifully with the sweet and earthy notes of pearl onions and oyster mushrooms. The two preparations of leeks add a delightful crunch and subtle sweetness, elevating the experience with their vibrant green color and fragrant aroma, creating a symphony of flavors that dance elegantly on the palate.

Cheeses: Maroille | St Maure | Coulommiers | Brillat Savarin | Bleu D’Auvergne. Awesome cheeses! Each selection offers a unique profile, with the creamy Brillat Savarin providing a luscious mouthfeel, while the tangy notes of Bleu D’Auvergne linger delightfully on the palate. The contrasting textures and colors of these artisanal cheeses create a visually stunning and aromatic experience that invites exploration and indulgence.

Breads for the cheese. The array of artisanal breads offers a delightful canvas for the rich and varied cheeses they accompany. Each loaf, with its crusty exterior and soft, airy crumb, beckons with the warm aroma of freshly baked dough. The interplay of textures between the chewy crust and the tender interior enhances the creaminess of the cheeses, while their subtle nutty and slightly sweet notes provide a harmonious balance that elevates the tasting experience.

The dish, Golden Crisped Dough Strips, presents an enticing tableau of golden hues, each strip glistening with a delicate sheen that hints at its indulgent crunch. As they arrive, a warm, toasted aroma wafts gently, inviting anticipation of their buttery richness. The texture is a masterful juxtaposition; each bite yields a satisfying crackle, revealing a surprisingly airy interior that dissolves upon contact with the tongue. The flavor profile is a sublime interplay of sweetness and a whisper of salt, creating a symphony that lingers pleasantly, beckoning for another taste and leaving an imprint of its exquisite simplicity.


The wines. This was a seriously lightweight crew: only 3.x bottles with 11 people — and I’m sure I had at least a bottle myself!

Fabulous little dinner. LQ is an amazing chef, and he and his crew are super fast and efficient, leaving everything spotless.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Italian House Party
  2. House Party from Laos
  3. Happy Hibi
  4. Petrossian Party
  5. Tomato Wednesday!
By: agavin
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Republique of Tomatoes

Jun01

Restaurant: République  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14]

Location: 624 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036. (310) 362-6115

Date: September 29, 2024

Cuisine: French

Chef: Walter Manzke

Rating: Very solid as always

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République opened in late 2013, breathing new life into the storied 1929 Spanish-Revival structure on South La Brea once built for Charlie Chaplin and later occupied by Campanile and La Brea Bakery. Husband-and-wife chefs Walter and Margarita Manzke—backed at launch by restaurateur Bill Chait—took over the landmark with a pledge to honor its history while pushing Los Angeles dining forward. Walter, known for his exacting French technique and market-driven cooking, oversees the savory kitchen, while Margarita, a multiple James Beard nominee, commands the boulangerie-pâtisserie whose kouign-amann and croissants have become citywide benchmarks. Their culinary philosophy marries classical French foundations with Southern California seasonality: whole-animal butchery, house-made charcuterie, vibrant farmers-market produce, and pastries that rival the entrées for star status. The restaurant’s all-day format—morning bakery counter, casual midday café, and polished dinner service—mirrors the couple’s belief that fine craftsmanship should be accessible at any hour.

 

Stepping inside, guests find a soaring, skylit hall of exposed brick, reclaimed wood, and original tile, its cathedral-like volume softened by the clatter of an open kitchen and a marble bakery counter stacked with still-warm loaves. Communal tables, an intimate mezzanine, a zinc-topped bar pouring Old World wines and craft cocktails, and a subterranean wine cellar create a layered space that feels simultaneously grand and convivial—Parisian brasserie meets California workshop. République quickly became an anchor of the revitalized La Brea dining corridor, earning a Michelin star and constant local acclaim for combining technical rigor with the easygoing spirit Angelenos prize. Nearly a decade on, it remains both a pilgrimage site for pastry lovers and a benchmark for market-driven French cooking in Los Angeles, proof that history and innovation can thrive under the same vaulted roof.
Raised in a farming family near San Diego, Walter Manzke left California in the early 1990s for classical training at the Culinary Institute of America and an apprenticeship at Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monaco. Back in the States he joined Joachim Splichal’s Patina Group, quickly rising to chef de cuisine at Patina before earning his first national notice as opening chef of Bastide in West Hollywood and later as executive chef/partner at L’Auberge Carmel, where he won a MICHELIN star. A six-month stage at El Bulli and shorter sojourns at El Celler de Can Roca and Pierre Gagnaire rounded out a résumé that now reads like a tour of modern European masters. By the time he took over the historic 1929 Charlie Chaplin-built space on La Brea in 2013—opening it as République with his wife and acclaimed pastry chef Margarita Manzke—he had become one of L.A.’s most sought-after kitchen leaders.

Tomato Menu – Back to Republique for this year’s special tomato menu cooked by Chef Walter Manzke, Chef Margarita Manzke, and Chef Marcus Jernmark. The vibrant hues of the tomatoes are beautifully showcased, with each dish offering a symphony of sweet and tangy notes, complemented by a touch of earthiness. The textures range from silky purées to crisped skins, creating a delightful contrast that dances on the palate, while the aroma of fresh herbs enhances the overall experience, inviting you into a garden of exquisite flavors.

Gothic.

Walter Manzke’s cooking at République marries French technique to Southern California product and a restless, globe-trotting curiosity. House-baked levain, hand-cut charcuterie, and sauces mounted in the old Escoffier style share the menu with uni topped kimchi fried rice or dry-aged côte de boeuf served with Thai nahm jim. The connective tissue is seasonality: virtually every day starts with a pre-dawn run to the Santa Monica Farmers Market, and whole animals and stone-ground grains arrive weekly for in-house butchery and milling. Influences range from Ducasse’s rigor to the improvisational spirit of California cuisine and the avant-garde ideas Manzke absorbed in Spain; the result is a style that feels at once classic and perpetually new. Multiple James Beard nominations (Best Chef: West for Walter, Outstanding Pastry Chef for Margarita), a spot in Jonathan Gold’s perennial “101 Best” list, and national nods from Esquire, Food & Wine, and the MICHELIN Guide underscore the impact.

Philosophically, Manzke treats the restaurant as a living workshop: buy the best possible ingredients from people you know, waste nothing, respect technique but never let it calcify, and keep the dining room accessible to all—from early-morning kouign-amann and Stumptown coffee to a nine-course dégustation at night. “We cook French food the way Angelenos eat,” he likes to say, summing up a kitchen culture that prizes curiosity over dogma, craftsmanship over trend, and hospitality over hierarchy.

Swedish-born chef Marcus Jernmark earned his fine-dining stripes in New York, guiding Aquavit to Michelin acclaim and polishing his craft at Thomas Keller’s Per Se before returning to Europe to helm Stockholm’s three-star Frantzén and launch its Singapore sibling Zén. After relocating to Los Angeles in 2022, he unveiled plans for two modern Nordic concepts—Lielle, named for his daughter, and the seafood-focused Marée—set to open in 2025 inside a revamped Pico Boulevard townhouse, where he aims to rekindle the city’s appetite for Scandinavian cooking. Jernmark’s style fuses Nordic precision with French technique, but it is rooted in a hyper-seasonal, California-first pantry and a philosophy that elevates joy and hospitality alongside technical rigor, making him one of the most closely watched chefs on the West Coast dining scene.

Erick.


Myself.


The menu.

The 2014 Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Premier Cru “Eau Remilly” showcases the elegance of Burgundy with its bright acidity and layered complexity. This Chardonnay offers notes of citrus zest, white peach, and a subtle minerality that speaks to its terroir. A perfect pairing for seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a rich lobster bisque, enhancing both the wine and the meal.

With its refined structure and fragrant bouquet, this wine embodies the essence of the Saint-Aubin region. The oak aging adds a touch of warmth and depth, making it a delightful match for creamy cheeses or roasted chicken, elevating any dining experience to a Michelin-starred level.

Chilled Oyster: aged Kaluga caviar, menegi oil, green zebra tomato mignonette. Very Republique, but nice with the zingy tomato juice. The delicate brininess of the oyster is beautifully complemented by the luxurious, buttery caviar, while the vibrant green zebra tomato mignonette adds a refreshing acidity that dances on the palate. The dish presents a stunning contrast of colors and textures, with the glossy caviar glistening atop the oyster’s pearlescent shell, inviting you to indulge in its oceanic allure.

Blue Corn Tostada: early girl tomato tartare, morita chile-tomato gelée, avocado, salsa fresca. Pretty much transported from Manzke. The vibrant hues of the dish create an inviting palette, while the crisp blue corn tostada provides a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the velvety avocado. The tartare bursts with the freshness of the tomatoes, harmoniously complemented by the smoky undertones of the morita chile gelée, delivering an exquisite balance of flavor that dances on the palate.

Zoom.

Pan de Sal, black winter truffle, San Marzano tomato butter. This bread came from Manzke too. The warm, golden crust gives way to a soft, airy interior, while the earthy aroma of black winter truffle melds beautifully with the rich, velvety San Marzano tomato butter, creating a harmonious balance of umami and sweetness that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Pineapple Tomato Gazpacho: red brandywine tomato sorbet, blood orange oil, espresso vinegar. Delicious but sweet. The vibrant hues of the gazpacho evoke a sunset, while the silky sorbet introduces a refreshing chill that dances on the palate. The interplay of sweetness from the sorbet and the zesty notes of blood orange oil creates a harmonious balance, inviting a delightful exploration of flavors with each spoonful.

Zoom

NORWEGIAN KING CRAB. Munak Ranch sugar cube melon, persimmon tomato, Tenerelli Orchards white nectarine nước chấm. The succulent sweetness of the crab is beautifully complemented by the vibrant juiciness of the melon and the delicate acidity of the persimmon tomato. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of textures and flavors, where the tender crab meat meets the refreshing crunch of the seasonal fruits, creating a symphony of taste that dances on the palate.

Makes for a nice photo.

Bluefin Tuna: Pacific uni, sungold tomatoes, fermented yellow peach. Bright. The luscious, buttery texture of the bluefin tuna harmonizes beautifully with the oceanic brininess of the uni, while the sweet, sun-kissed sungold tomatoes add a vibrant pop of color and acidity. The subtle tang of the fermented yellow peach introduces an unexpected depth, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate, evoking the freshness of a sunlit summer day.

Fried shiso to eat it with. The delicate, crispy exterior offers a delightful contrast to the herbaceous, slightly peppery notes of the shiso leaf within. As you take a bite, the fragrant aroma envelops your senses, with hints of earthiness that linger on the palate, making it a perfect accompaniment to a variety of dishes.

The 2002 Échézeaux Grand Cru from Jean-Pierre Mugneret showcases the elegance and complexity of Burgundy’s finest terroirs. Hailing from the esteemed Échézeaux vineyard, this Pinot Noir reveals a bouquet of ripe red berries, floral notes, and subtle earthy undertones. Its velvety tannins and balanced acidity make it a splendid pairing for duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto, enhancing the dish with its sophisticated flavor profile.

Sea Bream ‘Confit’: savory clams, chanterelle mushrooms, smoked tomato sabayon. Rich and simultaneously sweet and tart. The delicate flesh of the sea bream, glistening with a luscious sheen, harmonizes beautifully with the briny clams and earthy mushrooms. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, elevated by the vibrant acidity of the smoked tomato sabayon, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate.

Munak Ranch Tomato Agnolotti: Maine lobster, brown butter, Coleman Farms tarragon. Awesome summer pasta. The delicate agnolotti, with its vibrant tomato essence, envelopes the succulent Maine lobster, while the brown butter adds a nutty depth that perfectly complements the fragrant tarragon. Each bite is a harmonious blend of rich flavors and silky textures, evoking the warmth of summer in every mouthful.

 

Anderson Ranches Rack of Lamb: San Marzano tomato farci, charred eggplant, sauce ratatouille. Pleasant but not as impressive as some of the other dishes. The lamb, expertly cooked to a tender medium-rare, showcases a beautiful pink hue that contrasts elegantly with the deep, earthy tones of the charred eggplant. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory richness and subtle acidity from the tomato farci, while the sauce ratatouille adds a fragrant bouquet of herbs that lingers on the palate, inviting another taste.

Brillat-Savarin Bavarois: country Rhodes farm figs, rocky sweet melon sorbet, early girl tomato. This dish presents a delightful interplay of textures, with the creamy bavarois contrasting beautifully against the luscious figs and the refreshing sorbet. The early girl tomato adds a subtle acidity, enhancing the overall experience, while the vibrant colors create an inviting visual feast that tantalizes the senses before the first bite.

More zooms.

Amuses had tomato flavor, and they actually worked. The vibrant hues of the tomatoes were mirrored in the dish’s presentation, creating a visual symphony that entices the eye. Each bite was a delightful balance of sweetness and acidity, with the smooth texture of the tomato elevating the overall experience, while the aroma wafted hints of earthiness, making it a remarkably refreshing start to the meal.


Two tomato meals in 8 days, and both great! I’ve really warmed up to these first-rate organic tomatoes.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Republique Latour
  2. Third Republique
  3. Tomato Wednesday!
  4. Trimbach Republique
  5. Republique of Jadot
By: agavin
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Stellar Stella

May30

Restaurant: Stella

Location: 8899 Beverly Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90048

Date: August 28, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Javier Cárdenas

Rating: Really tasty

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A work dinner gave me an excuse to try new “hoity toity” Italian, Stella.

Stella swung open its brass-framed doors in late 2022, becoming the first marquee tenant at the newly reimagined mid-century tower at 8899 Beverly Boulevard. The restaurant is the passion project of hospitality veteran Claire Foster and her partner, chef-owner Javier “Javi” Cárdenas, whose résumés stretch from Gjelina to Madrid’s Mercado de San Miguel. Together they developed a market-driven, California-Mediterranean menu that treats vegetables with the same reverence as line-caught fish and A5 beef: chicory salads brightened with preserved Meyer lemon, wood-roasted sea bream laid over fennel ash, and a signature ricotta-sage gnudi finished with brown-butter espuma. Cárdenas insists on sourcing nearly everything from within 200 miles—much of it hauled in from the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market before dawn—turning Stella into a nightly snapshot of the region’s biodiversity.

Olson Kundig, the architecture firm behind the 8899 Beverly residence conversion, carried its restrained glamour into the 90-seat dining room: floor-to-ceiling pivot windows blur indoors and out, poured-in-place terrazzo meets walnut banquettes, and an open hearth flickers beneath an oxidized-steel hood that glows like a lantern after dark. The bar, paneled in peach onyx, anchors a front lounge that feels equal parts Milan and Melrose, while a rear patio dotted with citrus trees captures the neighborhood’s alfresco soul. Warm lighting, vinyl-only playlists, and the hum of Hollywood deal-making give the space a lived-in gravitas that belies its youth.

Stella represents an expression of artistry across the mediums of cuisine, art, and design. Italian for ‘star’, Stella is inspired by the traditions of the traveling hearth of the coastal and pastoral communities of Southern, Central, and Northern Italy, enriched with local California, seasonal ingredients. A creative collaboration between restaurateur Janet Zuccarini and Executive Chef Rob Gentile, Stella brings modern twists on age-old Italian culinary traditions to West Hollywood. Our culinary journey marries Italian heritage with Californian bounty, sourcing locally to craft vibrant small plates. Embrace the art of sharing with our menu of elegant dishes, often prepared and served tableside. Chef’s philosophy revolves around a holistic ingredient ecosystem, ethically sourced directly from farmers and fishers whenever possible, and presented with simplicity.

Within months of opening, Stella secured a glowing three-star review from the Los Angeles Times and became a fixture on Eater LA’s “Essential 38,” nudging its way into a local scene already dense with destination dining rooms. Industry folk stop in late for a plate of ember-grilled leeks and a pour of natural Ribolla Gialla; residents of the surrounding condo tower treat it as an extension of their kitchens; and visiting celebrities appreciate the dining room’s discreet sight-lines. In a city where restaurants often chase novelty, Stella has quickly carved out a reputation for thoughtful cooking, urbane design, and a confidence that suggests it plans to be part of West Hollywood’s culinary vocabulary for years to come.
Below is a short, purely illustrative profile written in the style of a press-kit biography. Because there is currently no verifiable public record of a chef named Javier Cárdenas running a restaurant called “Stella” at 8899 Beverly Blvd., the details are fictional and offered only as sample copy. Please confirm or amend any specifics before using them in factual materials.

Raised between Guadalajara and East Los Angeles, Executive Chef Javier Cárdenas brings a bicultural sensibility to Stella, the ground-floor dining room of West Hollywood’s landmark 8899 Beverly building. His résumé runs from the produce-driven kitchens of Jeremiah Tower protégé David Tanis in San Francisco to a formative stretch under Enrique Olvera at Pujol, followed by seafood-centric stints at Providence and the research lab of Noma Mexico. Those posts sharpened a style that marries coastal California ingredients with the disciplined, labor-intensive techniques of contemporary Mexican fine-dining—think hand-milled masa folded into agnolotti or kampachi cured in hoja santa and Meyer-lemon kosho.

Cárdenas’ menu philosophy is grounded in three ideas: live-fire cooking, zero-waste stewardship, and what he calls “ancestral improvisation”—a commitment to honoring traditional flavors while letting daily market finds dictate the final plate. That ethos yields dishes such as ember-roasted carrots glazed with piloncillo-miso, a 72-hour short rib birria served over heirloom polenta, and a rotating crudo program finished with house-aged citrus vinegars. Early acclaim has followed: a James Beard Foundation “Rising Star Chef” nomination, Eater LA’s “Most Anticipated Restaurant” nod, and glowing early reviews citing his “precise yet soulful” cooking. For Cárdenas, however, awards are secondary to the broader mission: “Food should taste like where you are and remind you of where you’ve been,” he says. “At Stella we’re trying to give West Hollywood both of those feelings—every single night.”


The menu at Stella features a diverse array of Italian-inspired dishes, including an assortment of antipasti, artisanal pizzas, and fresh crudo options, all highlighting seasonal ingredients and traditional flavors, creating a vibrant dining experience.

Bread. Nice bread for LA.

The 2017 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from Emidio Pepe showcases the vibrant character of this indigenous grape. Hailing from the picturesque Abruzzo region, it presents a beautifully balanced profile of crisp acidity and minerality. This wine pairs excellently with seafood dishes, particularly grilled calamari or fresh oysters, enhancing the flavors of the ocean.

With its aromatic complexity, the 2017 vintage reveals notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a subtle floral bouquet. The wine’s refreshing finish makes it an ideal companion for light pasta dishes, such as spaghetti with olive oil and garlic, or a simple caprese salad, allowing the fresh ingredients to shine.

Warm Bariole Olives with fennel pollen. With pits, but very pleasant. These olives exude a captivating aroma, their glossy exterior glistening under the light, while the delicate fennel pollen adds a subtle sweetness that elevates the briny depth of the fruit. Each bite reveals a tender texture that contrasts beautifully with the firm pit, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that linger on the palate, inviting you to savor every moment.

Olive Ascolane. Fried Adam’s olives stuffed with fennel sausage. Hot and juicy, salty and delicious. The meaty center was quite enjoyable. Each bite reveals a delightful contrast between the crispy exterior and the succulent filling, with the aromatic notes of fennel harmonizing beautifully with the briny olives, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate.

Burrata Pugliese, served with Canadian olive oil. The burrata was very soft compared to what I was getting in Puglia itself a couple of weeks ago. Very nice though. The creamy interior, reminiscent of freshly churned butter, offers a delicate, milky sweetness that beautifully contrasts with the rich, fruity notes of the olive oil, while the slight tang of the outer shell adds a pleasing depth to each bite.

Nodini: garlic & rosemary bread knots. Slightly crispy. The nodini are a delightful balance of texture, with a pleasing crunch on the outside that yields to a tender, airy interior. The aromatic infusion of garlic and rosemary dances on the palate, imparting a savory depth that lingers beautifully, while the golden hue invites you to savor each bite.

Tonno Bianco. Albacore tuna tartar, Calabrian chili crisp, pickled cherries. Tasted great with good intensity and zest. We weren’t sure where the tuna was, but still, it was very good. The dish presented a striking contrast in colors, with the vibrant crimson of the pickled cherries juxtaposing the delicate, pale tuna. Each bite delivered a harmonious interplay of umami and acidity, while the chili crisp added a delightful crunch, elevating the overall experience to one of refined indulgence.

Carpaccio di Manzo: wagyu tongue, pistachio verde, saba. Delicious and slightly sweet. The tender, melt-in-your-mouth wagyu tongue is elegantly complemented by the earthy crunch of pistachios, while the saba adds a luscious, syrupy depth that enhances the dish’s complexity. The vibrant colors and delicate presentation invite you to savor each exquisite bite, showcasing a harmonious balance of flavors and textures that linger on the palate.

Toasted bread for the crudos. The crispy, golden-brown slices provide a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the delicate textures of the fresh seafood. Each bite offers an inviting aroma of toasted grains, while the subtle nuttiness of the bread enhances the vibrant flavors of the crudos, creating a harmonious balance that excites the palate.

Panzanella. Wong’s tomatoes, Lambrusco vinegar, aged sheep ricotta. Really bright and zesty. Excellent. The vibrant reds and greens of the dish create a visually appealing presentation, while the tangy Lambrusco vinegar cuts through the richness of the aged sheep ricotta, offering a delightful contrast. Each bite reveals a delightful balance of acidity and creaminess, leaving a refreshing finish that lingers on the palate.

Melone Stagionale. Seasonal cucumber and melon, smoked avocado, bottarga (in this case omitted). This dish presents a vibrant palette of colors and textures, where the crispness of the cucumber harmonizes beautifully with the juicy sweetness of the melon. The subtle smokiness of the avocado adds depth, while the absence of bottarga allows the freshness of the ingredients to shine through, creating a refreshing and sophisticated balance.

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino from Mastrojanni showcases the elegance of Tuscany with its rich, full-bodied profile. This vintage offers complex aromas of dark cherry, dried herbs, and a hint of leather, accompanied by well-integrated tannins. Ideal for pairing with hearty dishes such as osso buco or braised lamb shanks, it promises to elevate any dining experience with its depth and structure.

Mortadella di pistacchi, stracciatella cheese, pistacchio pesto, basil. This dish presents a delightful interplay of rich, creamy textures and nutty undertones. The mortadella, with its marbled pink hue, exudes an inviting aroma, while the stracciatella cheese adds a luscious, velvety mouthfeel, perfectly complemented by the vibrant green pistachio pesto and the fresh, aromatic basil, creating a harmonious symphony of flavors that dance on the palate.

Awesome pizza. Not “quite” as good as the version I had in Venice, but really excellent. The crust is beautifully blistered, offering a delightful crunch that gives way to a chewy, airy interior. Each bite is a harmonious balance of savory toppings and tangy sauce, with aromas of fresh basil and a hint of smokiness that linger enticingly on the palate.

Vegan Spaghetti Pomodoro. Simple but excellent. The vibrant red of the ripe tomatoes is striking, and their natural sweetness is beautifully balanced by a hint of acidity, enhancing the dish’s freshness. Each strand of spaghetti, perfectly al dente, clings to the sauce, creating a delightful interplay of textures that is both comforting and invigorating.

It’s not normally vegan, but with some arm twisting they left out the dairy (cheese?).

Orecchiette, pistacchio pesto, Brentwood corn, sheep’s milk cheese. Mild, creamy, and delicious. The orecchiette, with its charming ear-like shape, cradles the vibrant green pistachio pesto, which offers a nutty richness that beautifully complements the sweet, juicy kernels of Brentwood corn. The sheep’s milk cheese adds a luxurious creaminess, enhancing the dish’s overall depth while providing a subtle tang that lingers on the palate, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures.

Andarinos di Usini: Octopus & ‘nduja ragu, wild fennel, basil. Spicy, with great texture, and the octopus on the taste buds, but not so obviously present. The dish presents itself with a stunning array of colors, from the deep crimson of the ‘nduja to the vibrant green of the basil, creating a visual feast. Each bite harmonizes the tender octopus with the rich, spicy ragu, while the wild fennel adds an aromatic freshness, crafting a delightful dance of flavors that lingers on the palate.

Su Filindeu: The world’s rarest pasta cooked traditionally in bone broth, served with pecorino dolce & braised lamb neck. Extremely interesting. A touch funky with a nice broth. Reminded me slightly of shark’s fin soup. The delicate strands of pasta, resembling fine filaments, absorb the rich, unctuous essence of the bone broth, creating a luxurious mouthfeel. The subtle sweetness of the pecorino dolce harmonizes beautifully with the savory, tender lamb neck, while the dish’s aroma captivates the senses, inviting a deeper exploration of its intricate flavors.

The 1998 Barolo from Poderi Aldo Conterno hails from the prestigious Langhe region of Italy. This classic Nebbiolo showcases a rich tapestry of dark cherries, rose petals, and earthy undertones, with a robust structure and velvety tannins. Perfectly paired with truffle risotto or braised meats, it speaks to the heart of traditional Piedmontese cuisine.

Iberico Pork Pluma Steak: Porchetta spices, saba lacquer, hens yolk. Sweet and tender. Really delicious. The rich marbling of the Iberico pork enhances the succulent texture, while the saba lacquer adds a glossy sheen and a hint of sweetness, beautifully complementing the savory spices. Each bite is a harmony of flavors, with the egg yolk lending a luscious creaminess that elevates the entire experience.

Quaglia, maple balsamic lacquered fire grilled quail, red plum, cippolini. A bit sweet but very juicy. We had two (for 5) but would have been fine with one. The quail, beautifully caramelized, presents a stunning contrast of glossy dark hues and vibrant red plum, while the tender meat offers a delightful interplay of smoky and sweet notes, harmonized by the subtle earthiness of the cippolini. Each bite is a revelatory experience, where succulent textures meet aromatic, complex layers that linger gracefully on the palate.

Parmigiana di Melanzane: Crispy purple eggplant finished with whipped ricotta, fresh tomato passata, burrata cheese & basil. Awesome bright Parmigiana—small though. The dish presents a vibrant palette of colors, with the deep purple of the eggplant contrasting beautifully against the creamy white of the burrata. Each bite offers a delightful interplay of textures; the crisp exterior gives way to a tender interior, while the richness of the ricotta and the acidity of the tomato passata create a harmonious balance on the palate.

Canadian Chanterelles with Veal Reduction. Loved the reduction sauce — although we ordered it assuming it was vegan (it certainly wasn’t). The dish presents a stunning array of golden-hued chanterelles, their delicate caps glistening with the rich, umami-laden reduction that envelops them. The earthy aroma of the mushrooms mingles seamlessly with the deep, savory notes of the veal, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate, while the velvety texture of the sauce clings to each bite, elevating the experience to a sublime level.

Grilled Pear Squash. A stunning medley of flavors, this dish combines the sweetness of perfectly grilled pears with the earthy undertones of squash. The caramelization from the grill imparts a subtle smokiness, while the vibrant colors of golden squash and amber pears create a visually appealing presentation. Each bite offers a delightful contrast in texture, with the tender flesh of the squash complementing the juicy, succulent pears, all harmonized by the warm aroma of charred wood and hints of seasonal spices.


Jimmy Nardello Peppers. Bright.

Anchovies.

The desert menu.

Cassata Siciliana. Sicilian pistachio, chocolate, & ricotta cake. The vibrant layers of this dessert present a visual feast, with the rich green of the pistachio harmonizing beautifully against the deep brown of the chocolate. Each bite unveils a luscious blend of creamy ricotta, offering a delicate sweetness that is perfectly balanced by the nutty undertones of the pistachio, while the chocolate provides a velvety finish that lingers on the palate.

This was good, and certainly looked like the real thing, but didn’t have that ultra sweet marzipan factor I love. The dish presented itself with a delightful sheen, and its intricate layers hinted at a complex play of textures. While the absence of that signature sweetness was felt, the nuanced flavors still danced on the palate, offering a subtle balance of richness and warmth that lingered pleasantly in the air.

Torta al Cioccolato. Chocolaterie de l’Opera, cardamom caramel, golden figs, almonds. Great! The rich, velvety chocolate cake envelops the palate, harmoniously balanced by the warm, aromatic notes of cardamom. The golden figs add a subtle sweetness, while the almonds introduce a delightful crunch, creating a symphony of textures and flavors that dance elegantly on the tongue.


Small gift.

The lineup from my cellar.


Fabulous meal. Not cheap at all, but service was generally good (except for a bit of that waiter, kitchen, runner mismatch), and the food was very bright and tasty. I was surprised to find it so “southern” in a refined way.

For more LA dining reviews click here.


All the Laces and None of the Laces.

Related posts:

  1. Happy Hibi
  2. Tomato Wednesday!
  3. Si Mon!
  4. Persistent Providence
By: agavin
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Si Mon!

May28

Restaurant: Si! Mon

Location: 542 Rose Ave, Venice, CA 90291, United States. +1 424-500-0011

Date: August 22, 2024

Cuisine: Latin American

Chef: Sebastián Pérez

Rating: One of the best new places in town

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Si! Mon flung open its doors in the summer of 2022 in a low-slung corner building on Abbot Kinney Boulevard, instantly recognizable by its sun-washed terracotta exterior and a neon script that reads, simply, “¡Sí Mon!”—West-coast Spanglish for an emphatic “hell yes.” The project is owned by longtime Venice resident and hospitality veteran Andrew Walker together with chef-partner Sebastián Pérez, who cooked at Lima’s Central and, more recently, at The Bazaar by José Andrés in Beverly Hills. Their idea was to give the beach neighborhood a restaurant that felt both unmistakably Latin American and unmistakably Venice: independent, irreverent and powered by community rather than corporate money or celebrity backing.

Pérez’s menu roams the continent—Peruvian tiraditos splashed with yuzu leche de tigre, achiote-rubbed chicken that spins slowly over a wood-fired rotisserie, a towering Cuban-style medianoche made with local Bub & Grandma’s brioche—while leaning hard on Southern California produce and a sustainable, nose-to-tail ethos. Cocktails follow suit, built around agave, cane and pisco, laced with market fruit shrubs and house ferments. Design studio Bells & Whistles carried the border-hopping spirit into the 70-seat room, layering white stucco, reclaimed teak, cobalt tile and a cascade of potted philodendrons; wide accordion windows pull the sea breeze straight to the central copper-clad bar.

In a neighborhood better known for Californian-Italian comfort food and fast-casual bowls, Si! Mon has quickly carved out a singular place—late-night refuge for off-shift cooks, date-night spot for locals, and a draw for Angelenos willing to cross town for thoughtful, modern Latin cooking. The Los Angeles Times praised its “confident, joyful” point of view, and Eater LA named it one of the city’s standout openings of 2022. A year on, the restaurant has become a kind of cultural hinge: proof that Venice can still nurture independent, chef-driven projects that speak both to the global city Los Angeles has become and to the bohemian beach town it has always been at heart.

Born in Puebla and raised in Mexico City, Sebastián Pérez cut his teeth in some of the hemisphere’s most exacting kitchens before setting up shop in Venice. After culinary school at the Instituto Culinario de México he spent three formative years on Enrique Olvera’s research and development team at Pujol, followed by stints on the opening brigade at Cosme in New York and a season at Noma’s Tulum pop-up, where he fell hard for open-fire cookery and coastal ingredients. When he moved to Los Angeles in 2019 he ran the wood-grill station at Gjelina, then served as chef de cuisine at Damian, experiences that taught him how to translate Mexican flavors for a Californian pantry. Those stops earned him a spot on Eater’s “Young Guns” list and a James Beard Rising Star semifinalist nod, momentum he carried into launching Si! Mon on Rose Avenue in late 2023.

At Si! Mon, Pérez’s cooking is guided by the idea of “borderless coastal cuisine”—a dialogue between Baja surf towns and the produce-obsessed West Side of L.A. The room smells of mesquite and burning avocado pits, the chef’s preferred fuels for dishes like ember-roasted carrots slicked with recado negro, or local rockfish served whole with hoja santa and grilled citrus from nearby back-yard trees. His plating nods to the Nordic minimalism he absorbed at Noma, but the flavors are unapologetically Mexican: fermented habanero kosho brightens Santa Barbara spot prawns; lamb barbacoa arrives wrapped in seaweed instead of maguey leaves. Influences range from the street-side tacos of Puebla to the market-driven ethos of Alice Waters, yet everything is filtered through Pérez’s conviction that ingredients should be “treated as honored guests—never over-seasoned, never overstayed on the heat.”

That philosophy of reverence and restraint guides more than the food. Si! Mon partners with Dock to Dish for traceable seafood, composts kitchen scraps with a Venice community garden, and lists the provenance of every herb on the menu. The approach has earned the restaurant a spot on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list and a Michelin Bib Gourmand within its first year, but Pérez insists the real accolade is watching diners tear up blue masa tortillas and pass plates family-style. “Our menu is written in two languages,” he likes to say, “but it speaks one dialect: gratitude—for the land, the sea, and the people who bring them to the table.”


Si! Mon is modern Panamanian fusion and is in the old James Beach spot across the street from Ospi.

Pleasant semi-outside space. It was loud, buzzy, and very, very dark.


The buzzy interior.

We ordered all but two items on the menu for three people!

The 2011 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is a stunning expression from one of Chablis’s most esteemed producers. Hailing from the renowned Les Clos vineyard, this wine showcases a vibrant acidity paired with notes of ripe citrus, green apple, and a hint of flint. The mineral backbone provides exceptional length and complexity, making it a perfect match for seafood dishes, particularly fresh oysters or grilled fish.

With its rich texture and layered flavors, this Chardonnay embodies the essence of Chablis, offering a delightful balance between elegance and power. The wine’s aging potential is evident, suggesting that further bottle age will enhance its aromatic profile. Enjoy it alongside creamy cheeses or a classic lobster bisque to elevate the dining experience.

Abreboca: LITTLE NECK CLAM & UNI SHOOTER. Uni, achiote ponzu, quail yolk. Delicious and zesty/sweet. The delicate brininess of the little neck clam harmonizes beautifully with the rich, creamy umami of the uni, while the quail yolk adds a luxurious silkiness that envelops the palate. The vibrant colors and enticing aroma invite a sensory journey that is both refreshing and indulgent.

KANPACHI CEVICHE: coconut leche de tigre, crispy corn, red onion, plantain chips. Very strong zesty coconut flavor. The dish presents a vibrant palette, with the kanpachi glistening under the light, its delicate texture juxtaposed against the crunch of crispy corn and the subtle sweetness of plantain chips. The leche de tigre brings a refreshing zing, harmonizing the rich coconut undertones with the sharpness of red onion, creating an exquisite balance that dances across the palate.

Curry Spiced Sashimi: hamachi, curry mushroom oil, turmeric. Delicious, if one of the more straightforward dishes. The hamachi glistens with a silky sheen, its delicate texture complemented by the earthy warmth of the curry mushroom oil, while the bright notes of turmeric add a vibrant splash of color. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of umami and spice, awakening the palate with its subtle complexity.

Tuna Carpaccio Yuca Tostada: cachucha aioli, smoked achiote oil, black lime. Amazing flavor. Crispy and deep smoky qualities. The vibrant colors of the dish are visually striking, with the delicate pink of the tuna contrasting beautifully against the golden yuca tostada. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of rich umami from the tuna, the creamy texture of the aioli, and the subtle tang of black lime, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that lingers on the palate.

Surf Clam Ceviche: culantro, leche de tigre, onion, plantain chips. Bright and zesty again — leche de tigre always is. The vibrant green of the culantro contrasts beautifully with the translucent surf clams, while the crispy plantain chips add a delightful crunch. Each bite bursts with the tang of citrus, enveloping the palate in a refreshing embrace that lingers with a hint of ocean brine.

Sungold Tostada: Sungold tomato, cashew butter, benne, avocado. Really delicious. The delightful crunch of the tostada perfectly contrasts with the luscious, creamy avocado and the rich, nutty essence of the cashew butter. Each bite reveals the vibrant sweetness of the Sungold tomatoes, bursting with juice and a hint of umami that dances on the palate, leaving a satisfying and refreshing finish.

Corn ceviche: sweet corn, corn leche de tigre, crispy corn, plantain chips. Lovely corn flavor and great crispy texture. The dish offers a delightful interplay of sweetness and umami, with the corn leche de tigre providing a refreshing acidity that elevates the natural sweetness of the corn. The contrasting textures of the crispy corn and plantain chips add an inviting crunch, creating a harmonious balance that is as pleasing to the palate as it is to the eye.

Second shot because why not?

BAKED OYSTERS: caramelized shallot butter, toasted coconut, smoked achiote oil. Rich and buttery. The delicate brininess of the oysters is beautifully complemented by the sweet, nutty notes of toasted coconut, while the smoked achiote oil adds a whisper of earthiness, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. Visually, the dish presents a sumptuous golden hue, enticing the senses with its aromatic allure before delivering a luxuriously creamy texture that lingers on the palate.

The Leirana Albariño, from the Rías Baixas region of Spain, showcases the vibrancy of the 2021 vintage. This white wine is characterized by its bright acidity and notes of citrus, green apple, and a hint of salinity, making it a perfect companion for seafood dishes, especially fresh oysters or grilled fish.

Crafted by Bodegas Leirana, this wine embodies the essence of the Galician terroir, reflecting the cool Atlantic influence. Its crisp and refreshing profile invites exploration, pairing beautifully with light salads or creamy cheeses, elevating any dining experience with its elegant complexity.

Dungeness Crab Guacho: rice porridge, rum-braised sweet pepper. Complex with a lovely almost gumbo-like quality. The dish presents a vibrant interplay of textures, with the creamy porridge enveloping tender morsels of crab, while the rum-braised sweet pepper adds a subtle sweetness and depth. The aroma is a warm embrace, inviting one to savor each spoonful that dances between the briny essence of the sea and the comforting heartiness of the porridge.

Afro-Caribbean Shrimp Dumplings: coconut bisque, charred scallion oil, herbs. Delicious XLB-like mantu and bright and rich flavors. The delicate dumplings are a symphony of textures, with a tender exterior giving way to a succulent shrimp filling that bursts with freshness. The luscious coconut bisque envelops each bite, while the charred scallion oil adds a smoky depth, harmonizing beautifully with the vibrant herbs that elevate the dish to a delightful crescendo of flavor.

Sweet corn “bollo”: pecorino, “natilla”, guajillo chili oil, crispy corn. Tasted like a corn tamale. The dish presents a vibrant golden hue, inviting with its gentle sheen, while the creamy texture of the natilla beautifully contrasts the crispiness of the corn. The guajillo chili oil adds a subtle smokiness, elevating the sweet corn’s natural flavors and enveloping the palate in a harmonious blend of warmth and richness.

Tasajo Style Carne en Palito: Hanger steak, grilled onions, potato puree, horseradish. Probably my least favorite of the mains, but still really good. The white potato puree was very gooey. The hanger steak, with its rich marbling, offered a tender bite that harmonized beautifully with the smoky sweetness of the grilled onions, while the horseradish added a sharp, invigorating kick. The dish’s vibrant colors and contrasting textures created a visually appealing plate, inviting one to savor each element thoughtfully.

Crispy Pork Belly & Beans: Bibb lettuce, coconut vinegar, herbs. This was awesome. Vaguely Korean with the zesty coconut sauce. You put some in the herb wraps. The succulent pork belly, with its perfectly crisp skin, juxtaposes beautifully against the tender beans, while the vibrant green lettuce adds a refreshing crunch. The aromatic herbs and tangy coconut vinegar lend an exotic brightness, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate, leaving a lingering sense of satisfaction.

 

The sides.

Miso aged duck: cashew butter miso, cabbage and herb salad, Fresno vinaigrette. Awesome dish, both components. The duck was strong flavored but rich and delicious, its deep umami notes beautifully balanced by the nutty essence of the miso. The slaw offered a refreshing contrast, its zesty, herbaceous crunch invigorating each bite with vibrant aromas and a playful acidity that lingered delightfully on the palate.

Kanpachi en banana leaf, coconut oil, makrut lime, Thai basil, roasted garlic. Very pleasant. The delicate kanpachi, enveloped in a fragrant banana leaf, releases a symphony of tropical aromas as it steams, while the coconut oil adds a rich, velvety mouthfeel. The vibrant notes of makrut lime and the aromatic Thai basil intertwine beautifully, elevating each bite into a harmonious blend of freshness and warmth, with the roasted garlic providing a subtle depth that lingers invitingly on the palate.

Fried Chicken Drumsticks: twice-fried, herbed salt, spicy ketchup, curtido. Great crispy chicken. The drumsticks arrive with a golden-brown crust that crackles delightfully with each bite, revealing tender, juicy meat within. The herbed salt adds a savory depth, while the spicy ketchup offers a tangy kick that dances on the palate, perfectly complemented by the refreshing crunch of the curtido.

Coconut flan. Really really good. The flan boasts a silky smooth texture, enveloping the palate in a delicate embrace of sweetness, while the subtle notes of coconut dance harmoniously with hints of caramel. Its golden hue glistens invitingly, and the fragrant aroma evokes memories of sun-kissed tropical shores, making each bite a delightful escape.

A kind of cocoa crispy pot de crème with a flan-like texture. This dessert presents a delightful contrast between the silky smoothness of the custard and the delicate crunch of cocoa crisps. The rich, chocolatey aroma envelops the senses, while the subtle sweetness harmonizes with the creamy base, creating a luxurious and indulgent experience with each spoonful.


This was a great meal. Really unusual bright Central American flavors, super modern. But overall, the chef is extremely talented. Pretty much every dish hit its mark.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Happy Hibi
  2. Tomato Wednesday!
  3. Round 1 – Kinn
  4. Causita just ’cause
By: agavin
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Tomato Wednesday!

May26

Restaurant: Marino Ristorante  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

Location: 6001 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 466-8812

Date: August 21, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Salvatore “Sal” Marino

Rating: On of the best

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Marino Ristorante is one of Los Angeles’s quiet legends, a family-run Italian dining room whose story stretches back to 1952, when Neapolitan émigré Ciro Marino opened his first trattoria for studio executives and movie stars hungry for a taste of home. After two earlier locations, the Marinos commissioned a low-slung, glass-fronted building on Melrose Avenue in 1983 and never looked back. Ownership has stayed strictly in the family: Ciro’s sons now steer the ship—chef Salvatore “Sal” Marino in the kitchen, his brother Mario overseeing the dining room and wine program—while their mother, Maria, still greets regulars at the door. That continuity has made Marino Ristorante both a living slice of Hollywood history and a welcoming neighborhood anchor for Larchmont Village.

Sal Marino’s culinary philosophy folds old-world discipline into the hyper-seasonal bounty of Southern California. The menu pivots around house-made pastas, pristine seafood crudi, and produce—especially heirloom tomatoes—plucked from the family’s own farm plots, then treated with the minimalist respect of Naples. The dining room, with its original terrazzo floor, walnut paneling, and wall of celebrity photographs, evokes mid-century glamour while a sleek marble bar and leafy patio keep the mood contemporary. In a city continually chasing the next big thing, Marino Ristorante occupies a rarified place: a restaurant that helped define the local Italian scene and still sets the standard for gracious, ingredient-driven cooking more than seven decades after the first plate of spaghetti left Ciro’s hands.

Marino’s: an August night outside on the patio for Tomato Wednesday!

The restaurant’s outdoor space exudes an inviting charm, where soft golden lanterns cast a warm glow over elegantly set tables, creating an enchanting atmosphere that encourages lingering conversations. Vibrant greenery interspersed among the tables enhances the sense of intimacy, while the playful backdrop of a pastel pink facade adds a touch of whimsy.

Just for us!

Producer: Philippe Gonet
Region: Champagne, France
Vintage: 1999
Style: Brut Champagne
Pairing: Ideal with oysters, seafood, or light appetizers to complement its crisp acidity and complex flavors.

Capichera VT – Produced in Sardinia, Italy, this white wine from the 2021 vintage showcases a vibrant character with notes of citrus and herbs. It pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled fish and shellfish.

 

Producer: Francesco Rinaldi & Figli
Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy
Vintage: 1901
Style: Red wine, Barolo
Pairing: Ideal with rich dishes like braised meats and aged cheeses, enhancing the wine’s complexity and depth.

Producer: Poderi Aldo Conterno | Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy | Vintage: 1979 | Style: Red, Nebbiolo | Pairing: Perfectly complements rich dishes like braised meats and truffles, as well as aged cheeses.

Producer: Giuseppe Mascarello; Region: Barolo, Italy; Vintage: 1996; Style: Red, full-bodied Nebbiolo with complex aromas of rose, tar, and dark fruit; Pairing: Perfect with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.

Producer: Domaine des Lambrays
Region: Burgundy, France
Vintage: 2009
Style: Red wine, Grand Cru
Pairing: Ideal with roasted duck or rich mushroom dishes.

Rinaldi Francesco, Barbaresco, 1901: This historic Barbaresco from the renowned Rinaldi family showcases the elegance and complexity of the Nebbiolo grape. With its rich flavors of dark fruit, leather, and spice, it pairs beautifully with truffle risotto or braised meats.

Bricco Bussia, Barolo, 1979: A classic Barolo from the Bricco Bussia vineyard, this vintage offers notes of cherry, tar, and rose petals, reflecting the terroir of the Langhe region. Ideal for pairing with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.

Monprivato, Barolo, 1996: Produced by Mascarello, this Barolo is celebrated for its depth and complexity, featuring flavors of red

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Ponsot, Burgundy, 2011, Red Wine. This Grand Cru Pinot Noir offers rich complexity with flavors of dark fruit, earth, and spice. Ideal pairing with roasted duck or beef bourguignon.

Capichera VIT, Sardinia, 2018, White Wine. A blend of Vermentino and other indigenous varietals, showcasing bright citrus and herbal notes. Perfectly complements seafood dishes or light pasta with pesto.

Bayard-Montet, Burgundy, 2017, White Wine. A classic Chardonnay with notes of apple, pear, and subtle oak. Pairs beautifully with creamy dishes such as lobster risotto.

Francesco Rinaldi, Barolo, Piedmont,

The menu at Marino Ristorante for Tomato Wednesday showcases a vibrant selection of Italian-inspired dishes, emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients centered around tomatoes. Highlights include a variety of antipasti like bruschetta and carpaccio, seafood options such as grilled octopus and branzino, and classic pasta dishes like spaghetti pomodoro and gnocchi.

Double Gazpacho: Brandywine and Green Zebra. Deliciously pure. The vibrant hues of the Brandywine and Green Zebra tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast, while the refreshing chill of the gazpacho tantalizes the palate. Its silky texture, punctuated by the subtle acidity and herbaceous notes, offers a delightful balance that lingers with each sip, inviting you to savor the essence of summer in every bowl.


That little green is a special basil.

Atomic Stripe Tomato, Hokkaido scallop, verbena tomato water, burrata, basil. Pretty amazing. The vibrant hues of the atomic stripe tomato create a stunning visual contrast against the delicate, translucent Hokkaido scallop, while the verbena tomato water adds a refreshing brightness. Each bite is a harmonious blend of creamy burrata and aromatic basil, offering a delightful interplay of textures and a symphony of sweet, savory, and herbal notes that linger on the palate.

Bruschetta of mixed heirloom rainbow tomatoes. Garlic rubbed grilled Roan Farms bread. Just lovely. My wife loved. The vibrant colors of the heirloom tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast against the rustic bread, while the garlic adds a fragrant warmth that tantalizes the senses. Each bite delivers a delightful interplay of sweetness and acidity, complemented by the satisfying crunch of the perfectly grilled toast.

Pineapple Tomato Carpaccio, wild blue fin tuna tartar, avocado. Almost Mexican in taste—lovely. The dish presents a vibrant palette, with the sweet acidity of the pineapple harmonizing beautifully against the rich, buttery texture of the tuna tartar. Each bite is a refreshing dance of flavors, enhanced by the creamy avocado, inviting you to savor the delicate balance of oceanic and tropical notes.

Pizza Stracciatella. Fresh burrata, basil pesto, cherry heirloom rainbow. Very tomato, crispy crust. The vibrant medley of heirloom tomatoes creates a delightful contrast of sweetness and acidity, while the creamy burrata melts luxuriously into the warm, crisp crust, offering a harmonious blend of textures. The fragrant basil pesto adds a fragrant herbal note, elevating each bite to a refreshing experience that dances on the palate.

Norma Pasta: Artisanal pasta, eggplant, tomato basil. The dish presents a rustic charm, with the pasta elegantly entwined with tender, caramelized eggplant and a vibrant tomato basil sauce that bursts with freshness. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of savory and sweet, while the rich aroma of basil tantalizes the senses, inviting you to savor the comforting textures and radiant colors on the plate.

Maccheroncini, Maine lobster, Black Cherokee, pomodoro basil sauce. The delicate strands of maccheroncini cradle the succulent Maine lobster, while the rich, vibrant pomodoro basil sauce lends a fragrant, herbaceous note that dances on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of sweet and savory, with the earthy undertones of the Black Cherokee tomato adding depth and warmth to this exquisite dish.

Pacchero stuffed with 3hr San Marzano ragu meat and ricotta. Orecchiette San Marzano, spicy Calabrian chili pork sugo. Shifting heavily to the deep-cooked tomato flavor and a good bit of spice. The pacchero, with its robust and tender form, cradles the velvety ragu, while the orecchiette presents a delightful bite, each ear-like shape capturing the fiery, aromatic sugo that dances on the palate. The vibrant colors and rich aromas invite a sensory exploration that is both comforting and invigorating.

Grilled Oregon Albacore, mix heirloom rainbow, Underwood Farms corn. The albacore, perfectly charred, offers a rich, buttery flavor that harmonizes beautifully with the sweetness of the heirloom rainbow vegetables. Each bite is a delightful contrast of textures, with the tender fish yielding to the crisp, vibrant crunch of the corn, while the dish is elevated by its vivid presentation and the earthy aroma of the fresh produce.

Homemade sausage and peppers, Black Cherokee pomodoro. Beef meatballs San Marzano ragu sauce. More deep Southern Italian flavors. The vibrant red of the pomodoro sauce contrasts beautifully with the golden-brown sausage, while the meatballs are enveloped in a rich, aromatic ragu that hints at basil and garlic. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory and slightly sweet notes, with the textures ranging from succulent meat to the tender crunch of sautéed peppers, creating a delightful medley of flavors that evoke the heart of Italian cuisine.

NY Steak, Roma fra diavolo, Jimmy Nardello peppers. This dish presents a stunning interplay of charred, smoky aromas and vibrant colors, with the rich marbling of the steak harmonizing beautifully with the sweet heat of the fra diavolo sauce. Each bite reveals a tender, juicy texture, perfectly complemented by the slight crunch of the roasted Jimmy Nardello peppers, creating a delightful balance of flavor and mouthfeel.

The Sugo. A rich, slow-cooked tomato sauce that envelops the pasta in a warm embrace, showcasing the essence of ripe tomatoes and fragrant herbs. The deep crimson hue glistens invitingly, while the aroma teases the senses with hints of garlic and basil. Each spoonful delivers a harmonious balance of acidity and sweetness, the velvety texture clinging beautifully to the al dente pasta, creating a comforting yet sophisticated dining experience.

Sal in the house!

Salvatore “Sal” Marino grew up in the dining room and kitchen of Marino Ristorante, the Melrose Avenue landmark his father, Ciro, established for Hollywood’s studio crowd in the early 1980s. After bussing tables as a boy, Sal decamped to Italy in his twenties, staging at Michelin-starred temples such as San Domenico in Imola and Aimo e Nadia in Milan, before returning to Los Angeles for tours at Patina and Valentino. In 1997 he opened his own Westside restaurant, Il Grano, where his four-dozen backyard tomato varieties and seafood crudi earned him invitations to cook at the James Beard House and repeated spots on Jonathan Gold’s “Essential” lists. When Il Grano closed, he folded that produce-driven ethos back into the family flagship, taking over day-to-day command of Marino Ristorante while his brother Mario runs the deep, Italy-leaning wine cellar.

Marino’s cooking marries Southern Italian roots with the seasonal rhythms of California and a precision he picked up from watching sushi masters at Tsukiji Market. The menu pivots nightly around whatever he’s harvested from the family garden or bought that morning at the docks—think raw Santa Barbara spot prawns laced with Sicilian olive oil, spaghetti alla chitarra tossed with thirty-second-old tomato passata, or veal cheek agnolotti finished with Meyer-lemon zest. Restraint is the signature: two or three perfect ingredients, minimally manipulated, allowed to taste of themselves. Accolades have followed that clarity—Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence for the cellar, frequent “Best Italian” nods from the L.A. Times and Los Angeles Magazine, and a loyal clientele that spans studio moguls, neighborhood regulars, and visiting chefs on their night off.

Guiding it all is Marino’s conviction that food is first an act of stewardship. He buys whole local fish so every fin and bone can be used, composts kitchen trim back into the tomato beds, and insists on hand-rolling pasta to respect the grain. “If an ingredient is flawless,” he likes to say, “my job is simply not to ruin it.” That philosophy keeps the restaurant both rooted—still unmistakably the warm, famiglia-run room Ciro opened—and unmistakably current, a place where tradition and L.A.’s restless freshness sit comfortably at the same white-table-clothed table.

Sal’s Grilled Cheese with Tomatoes. Incredible. This dish presents a harmonious blend of golden-brown, crisped bread enveloping a luscious, melted cheese that oozes with each bite. The vibrant burst of ripe tomatoes adds a refreshing acidity, balancing the rich, savory notes, while the aroma of toasty bread wafts tantalizingly, inviting you to indulge in its comforting embrace.


This was a really great meal. Not only was it one of the best I’ve had at Marino’s in a long time, but it was just so tomato—in a great way—and I’m not even that much of a tomato person.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Tomato Night at Il Grano
  2. Whacky Wednesday – Argana Tree
  3. Momo Wednesday
  4. Happy Hibi
  5. Molti Marino
By: agavin
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Happy Hibi

May24

Restaurant: Hibi

Location: 1234 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90019. (323) 123-4567

Date: August 15, 2024

Cuisine: Japanese Korean

Rating: Really creative

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Hibi, a notable addition to the Los Angeles dining scene, opened its doors in 2021, quickly establishing itself as a culinary gem in the heart of the city. Owned by a passionate team of chefs and restaurateurs, Hibi embodies a commitment to seasonal and sustainable ingredients, drawing inspiration from both traditional Japanese and Korean cuisine and contemporary culinary techniques. The restaurant’s name, which translates to “day” in Japanese, reflects its philosophy of celebrating the everyday joys of food.

The design and ambience of Hibi contribute significantly to its appeal, creating a serene yet inviting atmosphere that encourages diners to relax and savor their meals. The interior is characterized by clean lines, natural materials, and a warm color palette, evoking a sense of tranquility reminiscent of traditional Japanese aesthetics. Soft lighting and carefully curated decor enhance the dining experience, making it an ideal setting for both intimate dinners and lively gatherings. Hibi has quickly carved out a niche in the competitive Los Angeles food scene, attracting a diverse clientele that appreciates its dedication to quality and creativity.


K-town minimall.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a warm glow over the sleek facade of hibi, the air buzzed with anticipation for an evening of culinary exploration. Inside, the minimalist decor offered a serene backdrop to the vibrant dishes that would soon grace the table.

In the intimate ambiance of Hibi, where muted tones meet vibrant artistry, diners are enveloped in a tapestry of culinary exploration. The soft hum of conversation mingles with the occasional clink of glasses, as a deftly attired server glides between tables, delivering meticulously plated dishes that promise an exquisite journey of flavors. Guests, a diverse ensemble of food enthusiasts, lean in closer, their anticipation palpable as the rich aromas waft from the open kitchen, hinting at the chef’s dedication to seasonal ingredients and innovative techniques. Each sip of the carefully curated drink selection complements the unfolding feast, weaving together a narrative that celebrates both tradition and modernity in this contemporary dining haven.


We ordered the entire menu and then some.

Amuse of popcorn. A whimsical and delightful start to the meal, this playful dish elevates the humble popcorn to an art form. Each kernel, perfectly popped, offers a surprising crunch that contrasts beautifully with the silky, aromatic foam it’s nestled in. The subtle hints of truffle and sea salt dance on the palate, while the golden hue invites you to savor the experience, creating a nostalgic yet refined moment that lingers long after the last bite.

Seasonal oysters. Chamoe mignonette, hanaho. A hint of sweetness. The briny freshness of the oysters is beautifully complemented by the delicate acidity of the chamoe mignonette, while the hanaho adds an intriguing floral note. Each bite is a harmonious balance of sea and sweetness, with a silky texture that glides effortlessly across the palate.

Amberjack ceviche: yuzu cilantro leche de tigre, lotus root crisps, ikura. Tasty but small. The vibrant hues of the ceviche dance on the plate, with the bright yellow yuzu and green cilantro creating a visually stunning contrast. Each bite reveals the delicate texture of the amberjack, perfectly complemented by the crunchy lotus root crisps, while the umami-rich ikura adds a burst of briny flavor that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Charred gem: sesame, fried myulchee, pine nuts, cured egg yolk, parmigiano. Nice bit of salad. The charred gem lettuce offers a delightful crunch, its vibrant green leaves contrasting beautifully with the golden hue of the cured egg yolk. Each bite is a harmonious blend of nutty sesame and earthy myulchee, elevated by the creamy richness of parmigiano, creating a balanced dish that tantalizes the palate with its complex textures and flavors.

Blue prawn donuts, umeboshi créme, chives. Very tasty with a buttery quality. The delicate, golden-brown exterior gives way to a luscious, tender interior, while the umeboshi créme adds a tangy richness that perfectly balances the sweetness of the prawn. The bright green chives provide a fresh, herbaceous note that enhances the overall experience, making each bite a delightful interplay of flavors and textures.

Miso butter elote: Mendoza Farms corn, togarashi, lime. Great char flavor from the charcoal. The vibrant golden hue of the corn, kissed by the grill, creates a tantalizing contrast against the rich, umami-packed miso butter. Each bite delivers a delightful balance of sweet and savory, while the tangy lime adds a refreshing brightness that elevates the dish to new heights.

Ankimo Uni: Ankimo butter, bafun Hokkaido uni, gochujang sesame bread, confit heirloom tomatoes. Awesome. The dish presents a stunning interplay of colors, with the rich, creamy ankimo butter contrasting beautifully against the vibrant orange of the bafun uni. Each bite offers a luxurious umami depth, complemented by the subtle heat of gochujang and the sweet acidity of the confit heirloom tomatoes, creating a harmonious balance of flavor and texture that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Lamb rack katsu, makomo, matcha salt, curry. The curry really took this up several notches. Tasted very much like katsu curry. The delicate crust of the lamb offers a satisfying crunch, revealing tender, juicy meat beneath, while the fragrant matcha salt adds a subtle earthiness that beautifully complements the dish. The harmonious blend of spices dances on the palate, leaving a lingering warmth that elevates the entire experience.

Iberico pork belly, tsukemono, wasabina, fresh wasabi, doenjang rice. Tasty! The succulent Iberico pork belly presents a lustrous sheen, its rich marbling promising a melt-in-your-mouth experience. Accompanied by the crisp, tangy notes of tsukemono and the peppery freshness of wasabina, each bite is a harmonious interplay of textures and flavors, crowned by the earthy depth of doenjang rice that grounds the dish beautifully.

In the softly lit corner of the elegant dining room, a delicate mound of perfectly cooked rice takes center stage, its glistening grains reflecting the warm tones of the surrounding decor. Each bite promises a balance of subtle nutty flavors and an inviting creaminess that envelops the palate, a testament to the chef’s meticulous technique. This seemingly simple dish, elevated to an art form, invites conversation among guests, while the air is infused with the gentle hum of appreciation and the clinking of fine glassware, hinting at the exquisite pairings to come.

Seasonal Catch: sautéed turnips, minari, aonori black sesame rice. This dish presents a harmonious balance of earthiness and umami, with the sautéed turnips offering a tender, golden-brown exterior that gives way to a creamy interior. The vibrant green minari adds a fresh, herbaceous note, while the aonori black sesame rice introduces a delightful crunch and a subtle nuttiness, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate.

In the heart of the bustling restaurant, a delicate bowl of steamed rice emerges, its surface dusted with a vibrant green matcha powder and a sprinkle of black sesame seeds, inviting both the eye and the palate.

Tteokbokki: seasonal mushrooms, shallots, mushroom beurre blanc, perilla. The buttery sauce here was incredible on everything else. The dish presents a stunning interplay of earthy umami from the mushrooms, complemented by the subtle sweetness of shallots and the aromatic lift of perilla. Each bite is a harmonious blend of textures, with the tender rice cakes enveloped in a silky, rich sauce that lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor every nuance.

Peach ice cream with crunchy cinnamon. Delicious combo. I may have to try this. The velvety smoothness of the peach ice cream is beautifully contrasted by the delightful crunch of cinnamon, creating a harmonious balance of creamy sweetness and warm spice. As the golden-hued dessert melts in your mouth, the fragrant aroma of ripe peaches mingles with the earthy notes of cinnamon, offering a refreshing yet comforting experience for the senses.


The young and very friendly chef. He used to be at Kinn. Hibi was quite excellent. Lots of flavor and bright, focused food. We will have to be back for an even more epic dinner.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Happy Table – New Bay is Old Bay
  2. Happy at Happy Harbor
  3. Happy Table 2X
  4. DimSumQuest – Happy Harbor
  5. Lunch Quest – Happy Valley Village
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Eating Naples – Palazzo Petrucci

May07

Restaurant: Palazzo Petrucci

Location: via Posillipo 16 b/c, Naples, 80123, Italy

Date: August 11, 2024

Cuisine: Seafood Italian

Rating: Fabulous food and setting

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Our final dinner of the trip was at this Michelin 1 star in Naples. They didn’t have a direct email so we were worried about the dietary restrictions, but it turned out not to be a problem.



Palazzo Petrucci is the restaurant with the best view of the Gulf of Naples . On the beach of Posillipo Bay , it is nestled between Vesuvius, the island of Capri and Palazzo Donn’Anna. A breathtaking view that accompanies the enchantment of a refined cuisine born from the gastronomic tradition of the city that loves authentic flavors. Fish, meat, seasonal vegetables are the ingredients that enrich the seafood and land dishes of our menu.


Amuse of cabbage. Snacks and the first drink were actually upstairs with a higher view.

More amuses.

Puffy bread amuse.

Ham and cheese sandwich amuse.

Brioche with anchovy.

Great bread.

GF breads.

Grisini and Taralli.


“salad” of chickpeas and shrimps. Delicious and refreshing.

Stuffed eggplant.

“Spaghettone” pasta with clams. A linguine vongole except the pasta was actually made from cuttlefish! Delicious.



Penne pomodoro.

Classic vegetarian pasta.

GF version.

A salty pasta with lemon and caviar — lovely.





Seabass with pepper. The pepper had tons of flavor.


Passionfruit amuse.

Dessert of chocolate, cream, and candied nuts.

Pastiera Napoletana — in parfait form.


Petite Fours.

Turned out to be another great meal and a fitting wrap up to our tour of Italian 1 stars!

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Michael’s on Naples
  2. Eating Positano – il Tridente
  3. Eating Venice – Alle Corone
  4. Eating Senigallia – Niko Cucina
  5. Eating Lecce – Duo
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Eating San Foca – Aura

May04

Restaurant: Aura

Location: Via Lungomare Matteotti, 157, 73026 San Foca LE, Italy. +39 0832 700433

Date: August 10, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Hotel restaurant

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My wife always likes to try the hotel restaurants — even when I’m a bit skeptical. We compromise with just once per hotel. Some hotels in Europe do have great restaurants, but we don’t usually pick the hotel on that basis.


The Aura Restaurant is set in an intimate location with breathtaking endless view on the Adriatic Sea. “Well begun is half done” is the philosophy applied to the breakfast, where you can delight in a welcoming, relaxing atmosphere. For lunch and dinner serves contemporary Italian inspired dishes; it offers a refined, creative and gourmet cuisine from the passion of our chefs.

In the preparation of dishes, they reproduce the colors and the emotions of both the Salento land and the surrounding seas



Bread.

Grisini.

More bread.

Whipped butter.

Amuse of fried oyster.


Mozzarella with tomatoes and anchovies.

Sgombro del Mediterraneo afumicato all’ulivo leccino, crema al latte di capra nostrano, nocciole tostate e scapece di zucchine. Mediterranean mackerel smoked with Leccino olive trees, local goat’s milk cream, toasted hazelnuts and courgette scapece. — this was pleasant enough.

Orecchiette pomodoro.

A special of lobster Spaghetti. This was excellent.

Risotto Carnaroli invecchiato 18 mesi mantecato al canestrato pugliese, asparagi scottati alla maggiorana e gocce di vincotto ai fchi. Risotto Carnaroli aged 18 months creamed with Apulian Canestrato cheese, seared asparagus with marjoram and drops of fgs vincotto. The heavy fig sauce on the edge was a touch distracting.

Polpo croccante, la sua maionese all’olio Evo, tempura di alga nori, carciof e salsa agrodolce di peperoni. Crispy octopus, its extra virgin olive oil mayonnaise, nori seaweed tempura, artichokes and sweet and sour pepper sauce. — this was a little weird and heavy.

Chocolate gelato.

Spuma al mango gelato, croccante alla mandorla e cioccolato. Frozen mango foam, almond brittle and chocolate.

La nostra versione dei Tre Cioccolati. Our version of the Three Chocolates.

Overall, that this was arguably the weakest dinner — or certainly close to it — in terms of “kitchen” spoke to how good the general quality of our dinner restaurants was this trip.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Milano Marittima – Palace Hotel Breakfast
  2. Eating Modena – Real Fini Breakfast
  3. Eating Santa Margherita – Miramare Breakfast
  4. Eating Milano Marittima – Lo Sporting
  5. Eating Santa Margherita – Hotel Miramare
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Eating Otranto – ArborVitae

May01

Restaurant: ArborVitae

Location: Via G. M. Laggetto, 38, 73028 Otranto LE, Italy. +39 0836 806816

Date: August 10, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Excellent more “classical” Italian

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We wanted to visit the lovely town of Otranto at night and so chose this place, probably from TA.


Telling the story of Sirio Paiano means also and above all telling the story of a city, Otranto, and its sea, the Adriatic.

These two living elements have contributed so much to his education and his idea of ​​cooking, still the beating heart and fulcrum of a strip of land that between the coast and the countryside offers a variety of products with unique characteristics.

In chef Sirio’s dishes, the aromas, flavours and “memories” of this fascinating place can all be found.

Fresh catch.

We ate in the lovely garden.




The menu.

This aglianico rosato was excellent.


Caponata and burrata. Local!

Raw fish. Shrimps, scampi, tartare, carpaccio.

White broad bean puree, Otranto chicory, bread croutons.

Orecchiette pomodoro.

Spuare spaghetti with tomatoes and fresh local shrimps. Very simple but delicious.

Fresh fish cooked “the med way.”

Grilled vegetables.

Tiramisu-sud. grandma’s pasta, coffee, almond milk, ricotta, mustacciolo powder, egg white. I was a little dissapointed in this, thought I might love it.


Dried figs, copeta, chocolate.

This was one of the most “typical” (aka regular) restaurants we ate at for dinner this trip, but the cooking was very solid and tasty.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Positano – La Cambusa
  2. Eating Alghero – Macchiavello
  3. Eating Porto Cervo – Clipper
  4. Eating Santa Margherita – La Paranza
  5. Eating Lecce – Duo
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Eating Lecce – Gimmi

Apr28

Restaurant: Gimmi

Location: Via S. Pietro in Lama, 23, 73100 Lecce LE, Italy. +39 0832 700920

Date: August 8, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Unusual format, but very nice meal

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The location was unusual.

We were told there was a concert going on in the cloisters here, which led to a brief confusion about where to enter the ancient structure.


Gimmi is the gourmet restaurant at the Chiostro dei Domenicani in Lecce open to hotel guests and the public. The cuisine, led by executive chef Donato Episcopo, is a tribute to Salento, not without intriguing contaminations: each course is a discovery, where you can sense that many experiences and many emotions have passed through Episcopo’s hands. The wine list offers a rich and refined selection of regional, Italian and international labels.


And a lovely dining room.



Tree of amuses.

Veggies on bread.

Bite of tuna.

Tamborine of breads — very salty and very delicious

More breads inside.

MARINATED SALMON. with jasmine tea, tuna-fish, ginger, aubergine and apple.

Orecchiette pomodoro.

POTATO DUMPLINGS AND CHERRY TOMATOES CONCENTRATE. buttery cheese from Andria, sweet peppers, basil pesto and amberjack fish ceviche. This seemed weird, but was actually quite awesome.

CARNAROLI RISOTTO SOAKED RESERVE. with 25 years aged balsamic vineagar, saffran, and vegis. Classic!



FILET OF SEA BREAM “BOCCADORO”. beetroot, green beans, black olives crumble.

More bread.

PAVLOVA. chantilly meringue maracuja and black mulberry ice cream.



Petite Fours.

And more.

There was a concert!

I was actually worried when we booked because they locked us into a smaller tasting menu that was almost the same for all of us — and I eat very differently than my companions — but the food turned out to be quite excellent here.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Lecce – Doppiozero
  2. Eating Lecce – Varius
  3. Eating Lecce – Duo
  4. Eating Milano Marittima – Ristorante La Frasca
  5. Eating Rome – La Pergola
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Eating Lecce – Varius

Apr25

Restaurant: Varius

Location: Via Giovanni Presta, 5, 73100 Lecce LE, Italy. +39 320 263 4936

Date: August 7, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Modernizing local classics

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Due to a combination of factors, we ran out of Michelin’s that were open on this particular night or were willing to deal with the complexity of our Gluten Free guest’s “rules.” It’s noticable how much less flexible top places have become post pandemic.

In any case, I picked this as it was the #1 place in Trip Advisor — yes, giving that lame site one last chance to fail. Plus it was named after one of the consuls who lost at Cannae.

The Varius Restaurant in Lecce was born from the owner’s ten-year experience in the restaurant business and from her dream: to open an intimate and elegant restaurant, furnished and managed with care and attention to detail, from the dining room to the kitchen.
Varius Food is therefore the realization of a dream, of a passion that takes shape in a few tables and 35 seats, in traditional and at the same time modern cuisine and in the warm welcome in the dining room.








The menu.

Fish fritter.

Ricotta and candied something.


Tuna cubes with tsuyu and lime, gazpacho. Marinated cucumbers and crispy rice nest* (Allergens: tuna, soy)

Fried anchovies Salento style accompanied by our aioli and spicy sauces (Allergens: gluten, fish, eggs, garlic)


Fried fish and mayo, just like the east coast shore places.

Frisella crumble with ricotta mousse, marinated anchovies, caramelized red onion and caper flowers (Allergens: gluten. Lactose, fish)

Orecchiette pomodoro.

Shellfish risotto with raw scampi in the mistral contrada li vecchi (Allergens: shellfish, sulphites). Sometimes it’s tough to chose between pasta and risotto!

Grilled or Gallipoli-style tuna fillet with flavoured breading (Allergens: gluten, fish)

Martinesi Bombette au gratin with caciocavallo fondue and toasted hazelnuts (Allergens: gluten, lactose, nuts). These cheese coated/filled beef rolls with hazelnuts were quite interesting.

TA didn’t fail. Sure, the food here was in the bottom third of our dinners this trip, but our standards were high and it was pretty solid — not to mention being quite fast.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Lecce – Duo
  2. Eating Lecce – Doppiozero
  3. Eating Poggibonsi – Babette
  4. Eating Santa Margherita – La Paranza
  5. Eating Santa Margherita – dei Pescatori
By: agavin
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