Archive for Wine

Marea Beverly Hills

Aug10

Restaurant: Marea

Location: 430 N Camden Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. *unknown*

Date: March 6 & May 12, 2025

Cuisine: Coastal Italian

Chef: Sofia Morales

Rating: Fabulous

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Marea opened its doors on North Camden Drive in the summer of 2022, the brainchild of Milan-born restaurateur Luca D’Ambrosi and executive chef Sofia Morales, who met while staging on the Ligurian coast. Determined to translate the pleasure of an unhurried seaside lunch into an urban California setting, the partners took over a long-vacant art-deco storefront and stripped it down to the studs, installing a glass-fronted raw-bar, driftwood banquettes and a ceiling painted a soft Adriatic blue. Ownership remains tightly held—D’Ambrosi and Morales personally greet regulars most nights—and their menu stays loyal to the Italian idea that the sea should taste like itself: Santa Barbara uni folded into warm polenta, line-caught branzino roasted with nothing more than lemon leaves, and a short list of handmade pastas finished tableside in copper pans. The beverage program, run by sommelier Reggie Kim, leans into coastal Vermentino and skin-contact Malvasia while nodding to California with small-lot Santa Ynez whites.

In a neighborhood better known for power-steakhouses and monolithic luxury brands, Marea’s light-on-its-feet elegance has filled a conspicuous void, becoming a magnet for both studio executives who crave something brighter than a rib-eye and local families strolling the Golden Triangle. Critics from the L.A. Times and Eater LA praised its “sunlit Mediterranean confidence,” and the restaurant made the Michelin Guide’s “new discovery” list within its first year. Evening service hums beneath Murano glass pendants, yet the vibe stays relaxed—bare table tops, playlists that wander from Paolo Conte to Khruangbin, and open windows that let in the jasmine-scented canyon breeze. Marea has quickly staked a claim as Beverly Hills’ essential seafood counterpoint: rooted in Italian tradition, fueled by California produce, and animated by a hospitality style that makes even a Tuesday dinner feel like vacation.


Fancy transplant from New York.

Chef Sofia Morales brings a vividly coastal, cross-cultural voice to Marea Beverly Hills, the airy, marigold-toned outpost of the famed New York seafood temple. Born in Ensenada, Mexico, and raised between San Diego and Baja, Morales earned her culinary degree at the CIA in Hyde Park before honing finesse and discipline at Daniel Boulud’s kitchen in Manhattan, staging at Noma in Copenhagen, and later serving as chef de cuisine at Enrique Olvera’s Cosme. At Marea she synthesizes that résumé—French technique, Nordic seasonality, and modern Mexican vibrancy—with the restaurant’s Italian seafood DNA. Her crudo of kampachi with yuzu kosho aguachile and bronze-dye spaghetti alla chitarra tossed in a uni-jalapeño bottarga emulsion have quickly become signatures, earning her a 2023 James Beard “Rising Star” nomination and a spot on the Los Angeles Times’ “Chef Power List.”

Morales’s menu philosophy is rooted in “borderless waters”—treating the Pacific and Mediterranean as one continuous pantry while respecting the ecological realities of both. She sources hook-and-line local rockfish from Santa Barbara, partners with Baja oyster farms, and finishes plates with Ligurian olive oil or house-fermented chile vinegar depending on what each ingredient “asks for.” Influenced by her grandmother’s Baja surf-side grilling, René Redzepi’s micro-seasonal mindset, and the refined simplicity of Italian cucina di mare, she aims for “immaculate product, precise restraint, and one unexpected note that makes you look up from the table.” The result is a menu that feels both sun-bleached and metropolitan—a confident through-line that has helped the Beverly Hills location carve its own identity while honoring Marea’s original ethos of elegant, seafood-first hospitality.


The menu at Marea features a refined selection of seafood dishes, emphasizing fresh ingredients and Italian culinary techniques. Highlights include caviar, oysters, and a variety of crudi, as well as thoughtfully crafted antipasti that celebrate the flavors of the sea.


Marea also has an awesome private room, which we visited in May. 
The wines in March 2025.

A dozen kumamoto oysters served with marea mignonette & marea cocktail sauce. These briny gems are known for their sweet, buttery flavor and creamy texture, making them a delightful treat for any seafood lover.

Scampi on “Scampi”: langoustine tartare, crispy rice, garlic, lemon. This dish presents a delightful contrast of textures, with the tender tartare complemented by the crunch of the rice. Ricci: sea urchin, lardo, crostini. The richness of the lardo enhances the briny sea urchin, creating a luxurious mouthfeel. Sardina: sardine, tomato, eggplant, anchovy, pine nut toast. The combination of savory sardines and sweet tomato on a crunchy toast is both comforting and sophisticated. These were all great.

Bread.

CANNOLICCHIO features razor clam, manila clam, prosciutto, and fennel. The dish showcases a delightful balance of briny sweetness from the clams, complemented by the savory richness of prosciutto and the aromatic freshness of fennel, creating a harmonious blend of textures and flavors.

 

Scampi: Pacific langoustine, cucumber, chive. This dish showcases the delicate sweetness of the langoustine, complemented by the refreshing crunch of cucumber and the subtle onion notes of chive, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures.

SGOMBRO: mackerel, tomato, Castelvetrano, caper. This dish presents a delightful balance of rich, oily mackerel paired with the bright acidity of tomato and the briny pop of capers, all enhanced by the sweet, buttery notes of Castelvetrano olives. The vibrant colors and fresh ingredients make it as visually appealing as it is flavorful.

A full set of crudos: Scorfano — Rockfish, calamansi, pistachio. Spigola — Bass, almond crema, green almond, caviar. Ricciola — Baja kanpachi, strawberry, tarragon, fennel. Sgombro — Smoked mackerel, blackberry, lardo. Tonno — Yellowfin tuna, oyster crema, artichoke. Scampi — Pacific langoustine, cucumber, chive. Each dish presents a vibrant array of colors and textures, showcasing the freshness of the seafood paired with bright, complementary flavors that dance on the palate.

BRANZINO: sea bass tartare, pistachio, Calabrian chile, radish, chive. This dish presents a delightful combination of flavors and textures, with the buttery fish complemented by the crunch of pistachios and the heat of chiles. The vibrant colors and fresh ingredients make it as visually appealing as it is delicious.

Fusilli: red wine-braised octopus and bone marrow. Lots of deep flavor and good chew, with the octopus offering a tender yet slightly firm bite, complemented by the rich, unctuous marrow that adds a luxurious depth to each twirl of pasta.

MARUBINI: ricotta-filled ravioli with cacio e pepe, tomato, basil, and pine nuts. The delicate pasta envelopes a creamy filling, while the cacio e pepe offers a delightful peppery kick. Nice, but not as amazing as the others.

RISOTTO AI FUNGHI features wild mushrooms, taleggio, and parmigiano. This amazing risotto boasts a creamy texture, with earthy mushroom flavors beautifully complemented by the rich, nutty cheese. A comforting dish that warms the soul.

Risotto alla Primavera — Spring vegetables, pancetta, parmigiano. This vibrant dish showcases a creamy texture, with the fresh crunch of seasonal vegetables beautifully complementing the savory richness of the pancetta and the nutty depth of the parmigiano. Each bite is a celebration of spring’s bounty.

CASARECCE: jumbo lump crab, sea urchin, basil, Calabrian chile. The nice texture is complemented by the rich sweetness of the crab and the briny depth of the sea urchin, creating a delightful harmony of flavors. The dish presents beautifully, with vibrant colors that invite you to indulge.

PAPPARDELLE: Dungeness crab, scallion, tarragon. Really great crab pasta, tons of buttery flavor. The pappardelle is perfectly al dente, allowing the rich, sweet crab to shine through, while the scallion and tarragon add a fresh, aromatic lift.

Mafaldine — Shrimp, garlic, lemon, parsley, mollica. This dish features delicate, ribbon-like pasta that beautifully captures the vibrant flavors of the shrimp and the brightness of the lemon. The combination of textures—from the tender shrimp to the crispy mollica—creates a delightful contrast that elevates each bite.

Spaghetti features Manila clam, baby leek, lemon, and parsley. This dish offers a delightful balance of briny sweetness from the clams, vibrant freshness from the leeks and parsley, and a zesty brightness from the lemon, all harmonizing beautifully with the al dente pasta.

Orecchiette — Duck leg ragu, brown butter, pea shoot. This dish features tender, ear-shaped pasta that perfectly cradles the rich, savory ragu, while the brown butter adds a nutty depth and the pea shoots offer a fresh, vibrant contrast. The combination is both comforting and sophisticated, showcasing the beauty of Italian cuisine.

ANATRA features pan-roasted duck breast accompanied by parsnip, endive, orange, and duck jus. The sweet jus beautifully complements the rich, tender duck, while the parsnip adds a creamy texture and the endive provides a crisp contrast. A harmonious balance of flavors and textures makes this dish truly memorable.

BISTECCA: grilled wagyu strip loin, bone marrow panzanella, braised lettuce, shallot. Very solid steak. The wagyu is beautifully marbled, delivering a rich, buttery flavor, while the bone marrow panzanella adds a delightful creaminess and texture contrast.

Tomahawk — Grilled 40 oz prime ribeye, little gem, bone marrow panzanella. This impressive cut boasts a rich, juicy flavor with a perfect char, while the panzanella adds a refreshing crunch that beautifully complements the meat’s tenderness.

Tunahawk — Bigeye tuna loin, cauliflower salsa rossa, choice of one side. This dish showcases a beautifully seared tuna, its rich, buttery texture perfectly complemented by the vibrant, tangy salsa rossa. The combination is not only visually striking but also a delightful balance of flavors that excites the palate.

Sogliola — Pan-seared wild Dover sole, choice of one side, limone. This dish showcases the delicate, flaky texture of the fish, perfectly complemented by the bright acidity of lemon. The simplicity of the preparation allows the natural flavors to shine through, making it a delightful choice for seafood lovers.

CAVOLFIORE: flowering cauliflower, chile, bottarga. This dish boasts a delightful balance of flavors, with the heat of the chile complementing the umami richness of the bottarga. The texture is both tender and slightly crisp, making it a satisfying experience.

Topinambur — Sunchoke, mostarda, spinach. This dish beautifully balances the earthy sweetness of the sunchoke with the tangy brightness of the mostarda, while the spinach adds a vibrant green touch. The textures are delightful, with the sunchoke offering a tender bite that complements the smoothness of the mostarda.

Carciofi alla Giudia — Artichoke, anchovy, oregano, parsley, mint. This Roman classic features artichokes that are fried to a golden crisp, offering a delightful contrast between the tender heart and the crunchy exterior. The vibrant herbs and anchovy add depth, making each bite a harmonious blend of flavors that celebrates the essence of Italian cuisine.

Asparago — Grilled asparagus, pistachio, meyer lemon. The tender, charred spears offer a delightful contrast to the crunchy pistachios, while the meyer lemon adds a bright, citrusy zing that elevates the dish beautifully.

Patate — Potato, mimolette, caper. This dish features tender, creamy potatoes that beautifully complement the nutty richness of mimolette, while the capers add a delightful briny contrast. The combination creates a harmonious balance of flavors and textures that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Piselli a Shiocco — Snap pea, chile, bottarga, mint. This vibrant dish showcases the sweetness of fresh snap peas, perfectly complemented by the umami of bottarga and a hint of heat from the chile. The bright mint adds a refreshing finish, making it a delightful balance of flavors and textures.


Desert menu.

Coffee martini is a delightful blend of rich espresso and smooth vodka, creating a perfect balance of bold coffee flavor and a hint of sweetness. Its velvety texture and elegant presentation make it an ideal choice for those seeking a sophisticated pick-me-up.

Presented with an artful flourish, the dish known as Cheese Tasting Plate captivates the senses with its harmonious array of textures and flavors. A delicate pale yellow cheese, its creamy consistency invitingly soft, sits alongside a vibrant orange-hued cheddar, its sharpness balanced by a hint of sweetness. Golden honeycomb glistens like sunlit jewels, its floral notes wafting delicately through the air, complemented by the earthy crunch of walnuts that ground the composition. Tiny green grapes burst with refreshing juiciness, while a small silver cup cradles a velvety, well-aged cheese spread adorned with edible flowers, offering a subtle umami depth that lingers on the palate. Each element, a testament to culinary artistry, invites exploration and indulgence in a symphony of flavors.

BOMBOLONI: doughnuts filled with lemon ricotta cream, dusted with cinnamon sugar, and drizzled with chocolate fudge. These delightful treats boast a light, airy texture that contrasts beautifully with the creamy filling, while the cinnamon sugar adds a warm sweetness, making them utterly irresistible.

TIRAMISU: mascarpone mousse, espresso sabayon, chocolate crumble, mascarpone gelato. Not conventional, but very good. This dessert offers a delightful contrast of creamy textures and rich coffee flavors, all beautifully layered and finished with a hint of chocolate crunch.

NOCE DI COCCO features a delightful combination of meringue, coconut, passion fruit, pineapple, and rum. This dessert offers a light, airy texture with tropical flavors that dance on the palate, creating a vibrant and refreshing experience.

Gelato is a delightful Italian frozen dessert that captivates with its creamy texture and intense flavors. Unlike traditional ice cream, gelato is churned at a slower speed, resulting in a denser, silkier consistency that allows the vibrant flavors to shine. Each scoop is a luscious experience, often showcasing seasonal ingredients that reflect the region’s bounty.


Expensive, but some really great food. Unusual heavy seafood focus, too.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

 


Marea has an awesome private room.

The restaurant’s understated elegance is reflected in the meticulous arrangement of crystal wine glasses, their clarity catching the soft ambient light, setting a refined yet inviting tone for an unforgettable culinary journey.

The menu at Marea showcases an exquisite selection of seafood dishes, emphasizing fresh ingredients and refined Italian flavors. Highlights include caviar, oysters, and a variety of antipasti, alongside beautifully crafted pasta and crudo preparations that celebrate the ocean’s bounty.


The menu.

The Pierre Peters Champagne, a stunning Blanc de Blancs from the Côte de Blancs region, showcases the elegance of the 2016 vintage. With its bright acidity and fine bubbles, this wine offers a bouquet of citrus and white flowers, complemented by a hint of brioche. Ideal for pairing with oysters or a delicate seafood dish, it elevates any celebration with its finesse and complexity.

The Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Premier Cru from the 2017 vintage presents a rich yet refreshing profile, typical of the Burgundy region. This Chardonnay boasts notes of ripe stone fruits, hazelnuts, and a subtle minerality, making it a versatile companion for roasted chicken or creamy pasta dishes. Its balanced structure invites you to savor each sip, revealing layers of flavor with every taste.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin Premier Cru “En Remilly” from Jean-Claude Ramonet offers a delightful expression of its terroir, showcasing bright acidity and notes of citrus and green apple, complemented by a mineral backbone. This elegant white Burgundy pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a creamy risotto.

The 2010 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Bonneau du Martray is a magnificent white wine that reveals layers of complexity, with rich flavors of ripe pear, toasted almonds, and a hint of oak. Its full-bodied structure and vibrant acidity make it an exceptional companion for rich dishes like lobster thermidor or roasted chicken with herbs.

From the esteemed Côte-Rôtie region, the 1970 La Moulin offers a stunning expression of Syrah, showcasing dark fruit, black olive, and subtle smoky notes. Its age has imparted a velvety texture and complex layers of dried herbs and leather, making it a perfect companion for roasted lamb or a hearty beef stew.

The second 1970 La Moulin bottle presents an intriguing balance of fruit and earthiness, with hints of graphite and wildflowers emerging. The tannins are beautifully integrated, providing a luxurious mouthfeel that complements rich dishes like duck confit or grilled game meats, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The 1970 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline is a stunning expression of the Northern Rhône, showcasing the elegance of Syrah. With its deep garnet hue, it unfolds aromas of dark fruits, smoked meat, and a hint of violet. On the palate, it offers a harmonious balance of ripe tannins and vibrant acidity, making it an exceptional pairing for grilled lamb or a rich, herb-crusted beef dish.

The 1971 vintage of Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline presents a slightly more mature profile, revealing complex layers of dried cherries, black olives, and a touch of aged leather. Its silky texture and refined structure allow it to shine alongside roasted duck or a wild mushroom risotto, enhancing the earthy flavors of the dish.

The 1974 Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin is a stunning example of Northern Rhône Syrah, showcasing deep, complex aromas of dark fruits, smoke, and savory herbs. Its velvety tannins and vibrant acidity make it a perfect companion to rich lamb dishes or a charcuterie board featuring aged cheeses.

The 1977 vintage of Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin offers a remarkable bouquet of dried cherries, leather, and earthy undertones, reflecting the elegance of its terroir. This wine’s silky texture and lingering finish pair effortlessly with grilled meats or a hearty beef stew, enhancing the meal’s depth.

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin presents a fascinating evolution, revealing notes of blackcurrant, graphite, and subtle spice. Its refined structure and balanced acidity make it an ideal match for game meats or mushroom risotto,

The 1971 Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal is a breathtaking expression of the Northern Rhône, showcasing deep, complex aromas of dark fruit, leather, and subtle spice. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity harmonize beautifully, making it a perfect companion for a rich beef stew or grilled lamb.

The 1980 vintage of Côte-Rôtie, also from E. Guigal, presents a more evolved profile, with notes of dried herbs, plum, and a hint of smokiness. The elegance and depth of flavor make it an exquisite pairing with game dishes or a charcuterie board featuring aged cheeses.

The 1981 Côte-Rôtie continues the legacy of the previous bottles, offering luscious dark cherry, earthy undertones, and a touch of oak. This vintage is well-structured and pairs wonderfully with hearty dishes like coq au vin

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline is a stunning expression of the Rhône Valley, showcasing a blend of Syrah and Viognier. This vintage reveals deep, complex aromas of blackberries, smoked meat, and hints of violets, complemented by a silky texture that enhances its elegance. It pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a rich duck confit, highlighting the wine’s earthy undertones.

The 1981 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline offers a slightly more mature profile, with savory notes of truffle and leather emerging alongside dark fruit and spice. This vintage displays a beautifully integrated tannin structure, providing a long, lingering finish. Ideal for pairing with hearty stews or aged cheeses, it brings out the wine’s complexity and depth.

<pTogether, these Côte-Rôties from La Mouline epitomize the artistry of the

The 1981 La Mouline from Côte-Rôtie is a stunning example of Syrah’s elegance, showcasing deep, dark fruit flavors intertwined with hints of smoke and leather. With its velvety tannins and a long, complex finish, this wine pairs beautifully with rich, slow-cooked lamb dishes or a decadent truffle risotto.

The 1983 La Mouline, also from Côte-Rôtie, offers a more robust profile, featuring concentrated notes of blackberries, plums, and a touch of pepper. Its powerful structure and vibrant acidity make it an excellent companion to grilled meats or hearty stews, highlighting its aging potential and complexity.

The 1981 and 1983 vintages reflect the exceptional terroir of Côte-Rôtie, presenting a delightful exploration of Syrah’s versatility, from the graceful finesse of the 198

The 1984 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline showcases the legendary character of this Northern Rhône region. With its deep garnet hue, it presents an enticing bouquet of blackberries, violets, and a hint of smoked meat. The wine’s full-bodied structure is complemented by velvety tannins and a long finish, making it an exquisite pairing for grilled lamb or a rich coq au vin.

The 1987 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline offers a captivating profile, marked by ripe red fruits, spice, and a touch of garrigue. This vintage reveals a delightful balance of acidity and tannin, providing a silky mouthfeel. Its complexity makes it an excellent companion to dishes like duck confit or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the meal’s depth.

The 1984 La Mouline from E. Guigal, hailing from the renowned Côte-Rôtie region of France, showcases an elegant expression of Syrah blended with a touch of Viognier. This vintage is characterized by its complex aromas of dark fruits, black olive, and floral notes, underpinned by a silky texture and refined tannins. It pairs beautifully with rich dishes like coq au vin or a classic beef bourguignon.

The 1987 La Mouline, also from E. Guigal, offers a slightly warmer profile with ripe blackberry and plum flavors complemented by hints of spice and smoke. This vintage shows impressive balance and depth, making it an ideal companion to grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the dish’s earthy flavors.

The 1980 La Landonne, another gem from E. Guigal, presents

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Landonne offers a complex tapestry of aromas, with notes of dark berries, smoked meats, and a hint of black pepper. This vintage showcases the elegance and depth of the Rhône Valley, with a velvety texture and a long, satisfying finish. Ideal for pairing with grilled lamb or rich stews, it embodies the essence of classic Syrah.

The 1984 Côte-Rôtie, also from La Landonne, presents a more mature profile, with tertiary notes of leather, tobacco, and dried herbs complementing the residual fruit. The tannins have softened beautifully, allowing for a harmonious balance between acidity and richness. This vintage pairs wonderfully with aged cheeses or a hearty beef bourguignon, making it a timeless choice for discerning palates.

The 1980 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal showcases the elegance of the Northern Rhône, revealing rich notes of dark berries, leather, and a hint of tar. Its age has imparted a smoky complexity, making it a perfect companion for grilled lamb or a rich duck confit, enhancing its savory character.

The 1984 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie is a stunning expression of terroir, offering aromas of black cherry, violets, and a touch of spice. This vintage demonstrates a well-integrated acidity and soft tannins, ideal for pairing with hearty dishes like beef bourguignon or wild mushroom risotto, which complement its intricate layers.

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, with its robust structure and vibrant fruit, presents an enticing bouquet of dark plums, pepper, and earthiness.

The 1984 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie showcases an elegant balance between rich dark fruit and savory notes. Hailing from the Northern Rhône, this Syrah expresses complexity through layers of blackcurrant, leather, and hints of smokiness. Ideal for pairing with grilled lamb or robust stews, it offers a splendid dining experience.

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie presents a more mature profile, with secondary aromas of dried herbs and earthy undertones complementing its rich, ripe plum flavors. This vintage is a testament to the terroir of the Rhône, beautifully reflecting its character. Best enjoyed alongside rich game dishes or aged cheeses, it promises a harmonious match.

The 1986 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie features a vibrant acidity that accentuates its dark fruit core and peppery finish. This vintage reveals nuances of spice and

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, produced by the esteemed E. Guigal in the northern Rhône Valley, showcases a remarkable vintage with its deep garnet hue and complex aromas of dark fruits, smoke, and spices. This Syrah-based wine is full-bodied and elegantly structured, offering velvety tannins and a long, savory finish, making it an exquisite pairing for rich dishes like braised lamb or beef Wellington.

The 1986 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, also crafted by E. Guigal, presents a slightly more mature profile, revealing layers of black cherry, leather, and earthy notes. This vintage balances power and finesse, with a silky texture that complements its ripe tannins. Ideal for pairing with hearty game dishes or aged cheeses, it embodies the artistry of Côte-Rôtie wines.


All the La La’s!

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Late-night Baroo

Aug08

Restaurant: Baroo

Location: 905 E 2nd St #110, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 221-7299

Date: March 4, 2025

Cuisine: Modern Korean

Chef: Kwang Uh

Rating: Very unique and tasty

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Baroo first appeared in 2015 as a minuscule, almost monastic strip-mall café in East Hollywood, where Korean-born, Noma-trained chef Kwang Uh mesmerized diners with grain bowls, house-cultured vinegars, and kimchi that tasted like nothing else in Los Angeles. When that original location closed in 2018, its cult following never stopped talking about it. In late 2022 the chef returned—this time with co-owner and fellow chef Mina Park—to open a more polished, reservation-only incarnation at 905 E 2nd St #110 in the Arts District. The reborn Baroo keeps its staff intentionally lean and its counter seating limited, sustaining the intimate dialogue between cook and guest that made the first chapter so magnetic.

Fermentation remains the restaurant’s heartbeat, but the new Baroo stretches further, running a seasonal tasting menu that filters Korean flavors through Californian produce and European technique. A plate might pair koji-aged spot prawn with a delicate chrysanthemum broth, or present a barley-risotto riff enriched with doenjang and shaved truffles; an almost sake-dry makgeolli or a low-intervention Rhone white might sit alongside. The room mirrors the food: spare yet warm, with blond wood, softly rounded plaster walls, and a U-shaped counter that frames the open kitchen like a stage set. In a neighborhood already thick with destination dining, Baroo stands out as both laboratory and temple, reaffirming Los Angeles’ status as one of the most adventurous fermentation capitals in the country.

With its warm brick façade and sleek glass entry, the restaurant exudes a modern yet inviting charm, inviting diners to indulge in a sophisticated culinary journey amidst thoughtfully curated decor that balances industrial elements with cozy accents.

Chef Kwang Uh, the quietly cerebral force behind baroo in DTLA’s ROW complex, has followed an unconventional path to one of the city’s most talked-about kitchens. Born in Seoul and raised partly in Southern California, he began cooking professionally after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, but it was a string of formative stages that shaped his voice: the meticulous kaiseki precision of L.A.’s Urasawa, the ingredient-driven ethos of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and—most decisively—a year inside the Nordic Food Lab and fermentation studio of Noma in Copenhagen. Uh later decamped to the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy, and spent months cooking in Korean Buddhist temples, absorbing the ascetic, zero-waste discipline of temple cuisine. Those experiences fused into the original Baroo, a bare-bones Hollywood strip-mall deli that landed on Bon Appétit’s “Hot 10,” earned a James Beard Rising Star semifinalist nod, and became a cult shrine for chefs before shuttering in 2018. The 2023 rebirth as lowercase baroo, now in partnership with Mina Park, retains the spirit of the original but adds the polish of an open-kitchen tasting-counter.

Uh’s food defies genre labels yet feels deeply Korean at its core: rice milled in-house and seasoned with nuruk, sauces built on long-aged jang, and a restless roster of kimchi, garums, kombuchas, and koji that thread through a seasonal eight-course menu. One course might pair Santa Barbara uni with makgeolli-lees sabayon and puffed black rice; another might reinterpret jjajangmyeon as hand-pulled noodles glazed in black-bean koji and chrysanthemum oil. Influence comes from everywhere—Nordic preservation, Californian produce, Italian pasta craft—but is filtered through the Buddhist notion of “Baroo,” a monk’s simple wooden bowl that symbolizes sufficiency and mindfulness. That philosophy guides the restaurant: respect for living microbes, near-total utilization of each vegetable or fish, and a belief that time, patience, and curiosity are the most potent seasonings. Accolades continue to follow—glowing LA Times reviews, inclusion on the New York Times “America’s Best Restaurants” list—but Uh remains focused on the quiet alchemy happening in the jars that line the back wall, letting fermentation, not fame, chart the next evolution of baroo’s ever-changing menu.

The restaurant’s sleek concrete walls and warm wooden accents create an inviting atmosphere, while the soft glow of pendant lights and carefully curated shelves of artisanal goods set the stage for a culinary journey that feels both intimate and refined.

The menu at Baroo showcases a creative fusion of Korean flavors and contemporary culinary techniques, featuring dishes like celeriac puree with black sesame and lobster tuigim. It emphasizes innovative pairings, such as soy-braised black cod and unique preparations like pork collar ssam, highlighting both traditional and modern influences.

Pig ear – like amuse.

Another amuse of tomato, basil, and toast. Very interesting flavors.

태 — 胎 — TAE is a bridge over field and paddy, featuring a celeriac puree, jokpyeon, and black sesame sool bbang. The dish beautifully balances earthy flavors with a creamy texture, while the jokpyeon adds a delightful chewiness that complements the smooth puree.

양 — 養 — YANG is a lotus flower in the mud, featuring jaetbangeo, achobak, jaepi oil, sangchu, and gim bugak. This dish beautifully contrasts the delicate, earthy flavors of the lotus with the crispness of the vegetables, creating a harmonious balance that is both visually striking and texturally intriguing.

생 — 生 — SAENG life begins with lobster tuigim (deep-fried in parae seaweed batter) and lobster doenjang. The crispy, golden exterior of the lobster tuigim contrasts beautifully with the tender, succulent meat inside, while the rich, savory lobster doenjang adds a depth of flavor that elevates the dish. Each bite is a delightful harmony of textures and tastes, celebrating the ocean’s bounty.

 

Gratuitous zooms.

대 — 帶 — DAE is sometimes nomadic soy-braised black cod, a dish that beautifully marries rich umami flavors with a tender, flaky texture. The deep, glossy glaze adds an inviting sheen, making it as visually appealing as it is delicious.

Erick in the house.

왕 — 旺 — WANG remains in between peads & barnett pork collar ssam and brandt beef short rib ssam. The pork collar ssam offers a tender, juicy bite with a rich, savory flavor, while the beef short rib ssam is deeply flavorful, boasting a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Both dishes showcase a delightful balance of freshness and umami, making them a must-try.

Close up of the meat duo.

Veggies.

병 — 病 — BYUNG finally realizes? San namul bab, kkaetnip jangajji, gamtae bugak. This dish showcases a delightful balance of textures, with the crispness of the pickled vegetables complementing the tender rice, while the flavors burst with freshness and a hint of umami. Each component harmonizes beautifully, reflecting the essence of Korean cuisine.

절 — 絶 — JEOL is a delightful dessert that combines banana, kiwi, and hazelnut in a refreshing bingsoo. The vibrant colors and textures create a visually appealing dish, while the sweet and nutty flavors harmonize beautifully, making it a perfect treat for warm days.

This was a parade of really interesting flavors. Very subtle, unique, and delicious.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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  4. 888 Not So Late
  5. Happy Hibi
By: agavin
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Kato 2025 part 1

Aug06

Restaurant: Kato  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 777 S Alameda St #114, Los Angeles, CA 90021. (424) 535-3041

Date: February 27, 2025

Cuisine: Taiwanese

Chef: Jonathan Yao

Rating: Amazing, although pricey

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Kato opened in 2016 as a tiny, 26-seat spot hidden in a Sawtelle strip mall, the passion project of Taiwanese-American chef Jonathan Yao, who was just 25 at the time. Working with virtually no décor budget and a two-person kitchen crew, Yao spun memories of his mother’s cooking and stages at Benu and Cafe Boulud into an elegant, seafood-leaning tasting menu. Word spread quickly; a Michelin star arrived in 2019, Bill Addison named it the Los Angeles Times Restaurant of the Year, and lines formed in a parking lot better known for boba shops. In 2022, Yao and managing partner–wine director Ryan Bailey moved Kato to a dramatic, 80-seat space in ROW DTLA, giving the restaurant the stage its reputation had already earned.

The cooking remains rooted in Taiwanese flavors—pineapple buns transformed into foie gras sandwiches, Hokkaido scallops dressed with housemade fish garum, shaved ice flavored with oolong and longan—yet it now unfolds across a longer, more polished procession that highlights Southern California’s produce and Pacific seafood. Yao’s philosophy is to make the familiar abstractly beautiful but still crave-worthy: umami-rich broths clarified until they sparkle, pork floss reborn as a delicate tuile, fermented condiments used the way classic French kitchens deploy butter. Bailey’s adventurous, largely grower-champagne wine program and a thoughtful zero-proof pairing underscore the restaurant’s fine-dining aspirations while keeping the mood distinctly Angeleno.

Design firm MNDPC framed the new dining room in blond wood, ribbed glass, and matte concrete that echo Taiwanese tea houses as much as DTLA’s industrial bones. An open kitchen anchors the room, and low, warm lighting recaptures the intimacy of the original storefront even as the service has become choreographed and almost seamless. Today, Kato occupies a rare niche in the city’s food scene: a Michelin-starred, Asian-American tasting counter that feels neither fussy nor pretentious, championing immigrant flavors with the ambition of a grand restaurant. For many Angelenos, it is proof that the city’s most exciting fine dining can speak with a distinctly local—and decidedly Taiwanese—accent.
Chef Jonathan Yao was raised in the Taiwanese-American enclave of the San Gabriel Valley, where weekend trips to Arcadia dim-sum parlors and home-cooked Hakka stews quietly formed his culinary DNA. After a short detour studying biology at UC Irvine, he plunged into professional kitchens, staging at Ari Taymor’s Alma in L.A., Corey Lee’s Benu in San Francisco, and even spending time at Noma in Copenhagen to absorb the rigor of modern Nordic technique. Those experiences—equal parts classical precision and boundary-pushing curiosity—set the foundation for Kato, the 28-seat tasting-menu counter he opened in a Sawtelle strip mall in 2016 and later relocated to a far sleeker space at ROW DTLA.

Kato’s cooking is Yao’s very personal dialogue between Taiwan and California. Dishes like aged kanpachi draped in fermented kumquat, silken mapo-tofu dumplings, or rice steamed in chicken fat and finished with shaved bottarga marry the brightness of market produce with the comforting flavors of his mother’s pantry. The stripped-down plating hides obsessive technique—whole fish are dry-aged for umami, sauces are clarified for translucence, and desserts (think winter-melon granita over almond tofu) nod to Taiwanese night-market sweets while maintaining the lightness Angelenos expect. Critics have noticed: Food & Wine named Yao a Best New Chef in 2018; the James Beard Foundation has shortlisted him more than once; and Michelin awarded Kato its first star in 2019 before elevating the restaurant to two stars in the 2023 California guide, making Yao one of the youngest two-star chefs in the country.

Underlying the menu is a philosophy of “memory filtered through seasonality.” Yao begins every new dish by asking what childhood flavor or Taiwanese street snack he wants the guest to recall, then rebuilds it with the ingredients Southern California is giving him that week—Baja uni instead of Typhoon-shelter crab, Harry’s Berries strawberries in place of lychee, local koji to ferment kohlrabi. The goal, he says, is neither nostalgia nor novelty but resonance: food that feels simultaneously intimate and surprising, executed with the restraint, clarity, and quiet confidence that now define Kato’s signature style.

 

 

The 2008 Piper-Heidsieck Rare is a stunning example of a vintage Champagne, showcasing the elegance and complexity that this house is known for. With its fine bubbles and golden hue, it offers aromas of toasted brioche and ripe stone fruits, complemented by a refreshing acidity. Ideal as an aperitif or paired with seafood, this wine elevates any occasion.

Keller’s 2017 Riesling Trocken from Rheinhessen presents a beautifully balanced profile, marked by notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a hint of minerality. This dry Riesling has a vibrant acidity that makes it incredibly food-friendly, perfect for pairing with Asian cuisine or fresh salads, enhancing the dish’s flavors while providing a crisp finish.

The 2006 Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas from Domaine Michelot is a classic representation of Burgundy, embodying the

Run Bing: Red Fife wheat, trout, sudachi. This dish presents a beautiful interplay of textures, with the nutty crunch of the Red Fife wheat complementing the delicate, buttery flakes of the trout. The bright acidity of the sudachi cuts through the richness, adding a refreshing citrus note that lingers on the palate, enhancing the overall experience with its vibrant aroma and visual appeal.

Duo Jiao Yu: Tuna coriander, chili. This dish elegantly combines the tender, buttery texture of the tuna with the vibrant, aromatic punch of coriander and the subtle heat from the chili. The colors dance on the plate, with the rich pink of the fish contrasting beautifully against the fresh green of the herbs, while the fragrance of the spices tantalizes the senses, inviting you to indulge in a delightful culinary experience.

Ji Juan: Scallop, ginger, baby leek. The delicate sweetness of the scallop is beautifully elevated by the zing of ginger, while the tender baby leek adds a subtle earthiness to the dish. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of flavors, with the scallop’s silky texture melting effortlessly on the palate, complemented by the fragrant aroma that wafts through the air, inviting you to savor every moment.

Youitao. Sea urchin, ham, caviar. The delicate sweetness of the sea urchin is beautifully complemented by the savory notes of the ham, while the caviar adds a luxurious brininess. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of rich umami and oceanic freshness, with the vibrant colors inviting an indulgent experience that is as delightful to the eyes as it is to the palate.

Yudu Geng: Custard, caviar, fish maw. The rich, velvety custard serves as a luxurious base, perfectly offset by the briny burst of caviar, while the fish maw adds a subtle, almost ethereal texture that elevates the dish. The interplay of flavors unfolds delicately on the palate, revealing a harmonious balance of sea and cream, with a hint of umami lingering in the air.

Jinsha. Scallop, salted yolk, squash. The delicate sweetness of the scallop harmonizes beautifully with the rich, umami notes of the salted yolk, while the squash adds a subtly earthy undertone. Each bite is a symphony of textures, with the tender scallop yielding to a creamy finish, all beautifully presented in a vibrant palette that entices the senses before the first taste.

Zhou. Abalone, sea urchin, sticky rice. This dish presents a harmonious interplay of flavors, where the tender abalone offers a subtle brininess, perfectly complemented by the creamy richness of the sea urchin. Each bite of the sticky rice introduces a comforting texture, allowing the delicate marine notes to linger on the palate, while the vibrant colors create an enticing visual allure that is equally captivating.


Suancai Yu. Soured Vegetables, Preserved Peppers.

Anchun. Quail, mushroom, black pepper. This dish presents a harmonious blend of earthy mushrooms and the delicate, tender quail, seasoned with a precise touch of black pepper that elevates its rich flavors. The quail’s golden-brown skin glistens, inviting you to savor its juicy succulence, while the umami notes of the mushrooms create a beautifully layered experience, accented by the warm, aromatic scent that lingers in the air.

The dish, crispy quail legs, presents an alluring amber hue, glistening with a lacquered finish that catches the light like a jewel. As it arrives at the table, a subtle, smoky aroma wafts through the air, inviting the senses to explore further. The texture is a delightful contrast; the outer skin crackles with each bite, yielding effortlessly to reveal tender, succulent meat infused with hints of sweet soy and aromatic spices. Each mouthful offers a symphony of flavors, where the rich umami is perfectly balanced by a whisper of citrus zest, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for another taste.

Bao. A delightful steamed bun filled with tender, savory pork and garnished with fresh cilantro. The fluffy, pillowy texture of the bao envelops the rich filling, creating a harmonious contrast with each bite. The subtle sweetness of the bun complements the umami depth of the pork, while the cilantro adds a refreshing brightness that elevates the overall experience. The aroma wafts enticingly, inviting you to savor the intricate layers of flavor and texture in this exquisite dish.

Hongshao Niu: Short rib, tendon, black garlic. The tender short rib melts in your mouth, while the rich tendon adds a luxurious silkiness to each bite. The deep umami of black garlic intertwines beautifully, creating a harmonious balance of savory notes that linger on the palate. Visually stunning, the dish presents a glossy sheen, inviting you to delve into its complex layers of flavor and texture.


Ba Le. Guava, tea, salted plum.

 

Baixiang Guo. Passion fruit, chocolate, buttermilk. This dish presents a delightful interplay of tart and sweet, where the vibrant acidity of the passion fruit harmonizes beautifully with the deep, rich notes of chocolate. The buttermilk adds a creamy, tangy undertone that rounds out the experience, while the visual contrast of the golden fruit against the dark chocolate creates an enticing allure. Each bite is a textural journey, with a luscious mouthfeel that lingers long after the last taste.

Liusha Bao. Cream puff, salted egg, brown sugar. The delicate cream puff offers a sumptuous contrast of textures, with its crisp exterior giving way to a luscious, velvety filling that harmonizes the rich, savory notes of salted egg with the deep, caramelized sweetness of brown sugar. Each bite is a delightful interplay of flavors, evoking a comforting warmth that lingers on the palate, while the golden hue and glossy sheen entice the senses, inviting you to indulge in this exquisite treat.

The 2005 Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas from Domaine Michel Gros showcases the elegance of Burgundy. This Pinot Noir offers a complex bouquet of red fruit, earthiness, and subtle spice, reflecting the region’s terroir. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity make it an exquisite pairing with duck confit or truffle risotto.

This wine, hailing from the prestigious Vosne-Romanée region, embodies the classic characteristics of its vintage. The depth of flavor and structure suggest excellent aging potential, inviting culinary accompaniments such as grilled lamb or mushroom-based dishes to elevate the dining experience.

Kato has just grown and grown!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Kato DTLA
  2. Kato West Penultimate
  3. Kato West Final Act
  4. Good Night at Good Alley
  5. Getting Steamy
By: agavin
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Hengzhou (Hunan) Chilli King

Aug04

Restaurant: Hunan Chilli King [1, 2]

Location: 500 E Valley Blvd A132, San Gabriel, CA 91776. (626) 570-8188

Date: February 23, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Li ‘Peter’ Zhang

Rating: Great heat

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Hunan Chilli King slipped into the sprawling San Gabriel Square plaza in 2009, staking out a modest two-room suite with nothing more than a red-and-yellow sign and the promise of serious heat. The restaurant is family-owned; chef-patriarch Li “Peter” Zhang, a native of Hengyang, brought decades of wok experience and his mother’s recipes from Hunan, while his wife and children handle the dining room and back-office. From the outset their mission has been unapologetic authenticity: to showcase the bright, smoke-tinged, chile-packed dishes of south-central China rather than the milder, soy-heavy fare most Angelenos once associated with “Hunan style.” They import dried bird’s-eye peppers and cultivate fresh “duo jiao” pickled chiles in-house, lean on rustic techniques such as smoking pork over tea leaves, and refuse to blunt the heat for American palates unless a diner explicitly asks.

That stubborn purity infuses the space itself. The strip-mall exterior opens to a practical, fluorescent-lit room where stacks of ceramic bowls, oil-stained Chinese character scrolls, and the aroma of stir-fried garlic announce that what matters here is the food. Servers stride past tightly packed wooden tables with sizzling clay pots of chopped-pepper fish head, cumin-crusted lamb ribs, and braised pork with preserved mustard greens; the soundtrack is a lively mix of Mandarin pop and clattering woks from the open kitchen window. Over the years, Hunan Chilli King has become a rite of passage for San Gabriel Valley heat seekers, earning nods from the late critic Jonathan Gold and spawning a wave of similarly focused Hunan eateries across the Valley. In a region celebrated for its regional Chinese diversity, the restaurant holds a singular niche: a no-compromise temple of fire that continues to remind locals why the SGV remains Los Angeles’s most thrilling place to eat.


Hunan Chili King in its new location.

Li “Peter” Zhang grew up in a farming village outside Hengyang, Hunan, where every backyard plot seemed to riot with bird’s-eye chilies, and his earliest kitchen memories are of helping his grandmother smoke pork over camphor branches. After formal training at the Hunan Provincial Culinary Institute, Zhang cooked at Changsha’s storied Mao Jia, then spent a decade refining his craft in the booming hotel kitchens of Shenzhen and Guangzhou, earning a provincial Gold Wok award along the way. A 2014 visit to Los Angeles convinced him that the San Gabriel Valley’s appetite for regional Chinese food was ready for uncompromising Hunanese heat. He opened Hunan Chilli King—locals often shorten the name to “Hengzhou Chilli King” after his hometown—at 500 E. Valley Boulevard in 2016, and the restaurant has since landed on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list and Eater LA’s essential Chinese restaurants roster.

Zhang’s signature style is what he calls the “three-chili spectrum”: every dish balances fresh green bullet peppers for brightness, pickled red er jingtiao for acidity, and aged fermented chilies for depth. Classic dishes such as braised fish head in chopped-pepper sauce arrive crowned with a volcanic red mound, yet the heat is layered rather than blunt, letting smoked bamboo shoots, pickled long beans, and river prawns show their own flavors. Influenced by his years in Guangdong, he sneaks in flashes of Cantonese refinement—clear stocks, precise knife work—while staying loyal to Hunan’s rustic soul. Zhang’s menu philosophy is summed up by the calligraphy that hangs near the pass: “La de you pin, xian de you du”—“Heat with character, freshness with backbone.” He insists on weekly airfreight of chilies from Hunan, cures his own lap yook, and refuses to tone down spice levels for the uninitiated, believing that authenticity is hospitality’s truest form.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Colorful new menu.

Interesting Tomato and Sugar “salad.” This intriguing dish combines the sweetness of ripe tomatoes with a delicate sprinkle of sugar, creating a playful contrast that dances on the palate. The vibrant reds and greens are visually striking, while the soft, juicy tomatoes provide a luscious texture, complemented by the unexpected sweetness that lingers pleasantly. Each bite evokes a summer garden, where the sun-kissed flavors awaken the senses and invite a delightful exploration of sweet and savory harmony.

Spicy Smashed Cucumber is a refreshing dish that features cucumbers lightly crushed and tossed in a vibrant chili oil, with hints of garlic and sesame. The crunch of the cucumbers is perfectly contrasted by the silky smoothness of the dressing, creating a delightful interplay of textures. Each bite offers a chorus of flavors, with the warmth of the spices enveloping the palate, while the bright, green notes of the cucumber provide a crisp and invigorating balance. The dish is visually striking, with its glossy sheen and speckled red accents, inviting you to dive in and savor the tantalizing experience.

Hunan Eggs. Hunan eggs are a delightful twist on the classic dish, showcasing the bold flavors of the Hunan region. The delicate balance of spice and umami in each bite is a revelation, with the eggs enveloped in a silky sauce that glistens invitingly. The vibrant colors contrast beautifully on the plate, while the aromatic fragrance tantalizes the senses, promising a satisfying depth of flavor that lingers pleasantly on the palate.


Leeks or chives. Really good.

Hunan Frog. Hunan frog is a dish that is beautifully presented, with the vibrant colors of the chili peppers and fresh herbs contrasting against the tender, succulent meat. The dish is a delightful fusion of heat and umami, with a fragrant aroma that entices the senses. Each bite offers a satisfying crunch from the crispy skin, followed by the richness of the frog’s meat, which is perfectly balanced by the zesty notes of garlic and the warmth of spices, culminating in a truly memorable culinary experience.

Hunan Snails and Turnips is a dish that beautifully showcases the bold flavors of Hunan cuisine. The tender snails are perfectly complemented by the earthy sweetness of the turnips, creating a harmonious balance. As I savored each bite, the subtle heat from the chili oil mingled with the umami undertones, while the vibrant colors of the dish danced on my plate, inviting me to indulge further. The fragrant aroma wafting from the bowl heightened the anticipation, making this culinary experience truly memorable.

Tangy Spicy Fish is a delightful dish that perfectly balances bold flavors with a zesty kick. The fish is expertly cooked, showcasing a tender texture that melts in your mouth, while the vibrant spices create a bursting aroma that dances playfully with each bite. The dish is adorned with a medley of colorful garnishes, enhancing its visual appeal and inviting you to savor the harmonious blend of tanginess and spice.


Bacon and various vegetables.

Some kind of crunchy, chewy bit that was excellent — and very spicy.

Brothy something. Probably frog.

Peppery beef or lamb.

Cauliflower and some kind of meat.

Stewed duck: Tender duck slowly simmered in a rich, aromatic broth. The dish is a delightful harmony of savory spices and the natural sweetness of the meat, creating a luxurious and comforting experience. As the steam rises, the fragrant notes of herbs dance in the air, enticing the senses. Each bite reveals the succulent, melt-in-your-mouth texture, perfectly complemented by the velvety sauce that clings to the duck like a warm embrace.


Veggies and eggplant.

Pigs feet. Yarom’s foot fetish again. The dish is rich in flavor and has a unique texture that is both gelatinous and tender. The aroma is deeply savory, inviting you to indulge in its comforting warmth. Each bite delivers a delightful umami punch, with hints of smokiness that linger, while the glossy sheen of the dish catches the light, adding to its rustic charm.

Spicy Chicken is a dish that promises a delightful explosion of flavor, with its perfectly balanced heat and tender meat. The vibrant hues of red and orange create an enticing visual appeal, while the aromatic spices awaken the senses, inviting you to indulge. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of smokiness and warmth, enveloped in a succulent texture that lingers on the palate, leaving a satisfying and memorable experience.

Food at the new HCK location was on point and very similar — the pickled pepper profile is strong here.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. More Heat at Hunan Chili King
  2. Hunan Chili Madness
  3. Far SGV – Hunan Restaurant
  4. Hunan Mao
  5. Lucky Noodle King is the Dan Dan Emperor
By: agavin
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Dong Bei BBQ

Jul30

Restaurant: Dongbei Bbq

Location: 639 W Garvey Ave, Monterey Park, CA 91754. (626) 280-1718

Date: February 2, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Leo Zhao

Rating: Tasty but empty

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This new Chinese BBQ place takes over for the more ambitious “silk worm” place. They may be from similar regions.

It did get a bit of a decor upgrade.


Peanuts.

Century egg and tofu. Pretty delicious. The century egg, with its glossy, dark jade exterior, offers a rich, umami flavor that beautifully contrasts with the silky smooth texture of the tofu. Together, they create a harmonious balance, where the earthy notes of the century egg mingle with the delicate, subtle freshness of the tofu, resulting in a dish that is both intriguing and satisfying to the palate.

The 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Réserve des Deux Frères is a bold expression of the Southern Rhône, showcasing ripe black fruit, herbes de Provence, and a hint of spice. Its full-bodied style is complemented by velvety tannins and a long, warming finish, making it an exquisite match for hearty dishes like lamb stew or grilled meats.

This wine exemplifies the unique terroir of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with its gnarled vines and diverse grape varieties. The vintage’s warmth has resulted in a rich, concentrated wine that offers layers of complexity, perfect for sipping now or cellaring for additional development.

Smashed Cucumbers and Garlic. This dish features vibrant, crisp cucumbers tossed with pungent garlic, creating a refreshing and invigorating combination. The cucumbers, with their bright green hue, are crushed to release their juices, mingling beautifully with the aromatic garlic, which adds depth and warmth. Each bite offers a delightful crunch, a contrast to the silky mouthfeel of the garlic-infused dressing, making it a perfect accompaniment to any meal.

Salad of some kind of pork bit. Really bright flavors. The dish presents a vibrant medley of colors, with each ingredient harmoniously contributing to a refreshing burst of taste. The tender pork, delicately seasoned, contrasts beautifully with crisp greens, while the lively acidity invigorates the palate, creating a delightful interplay of textures and aromas.


Skewers, probably beef.

Pork belly and probably lamb.

Some other meat.

The 2011 Selbach-Oster Riesling Anrecht hails from the Mosel region of Germany, showcasing the elegance of its terroir. This wine is a delightful off-dry style, with vibrant acidity balancing notes of ripe stone fruits, citrus, and a hint of minerality. It pairs beautifully with spicy Asian dishes, seafood, or rich poultry, enhancing flavors while providing a refreshing contrast.

Mushrooms in “soup.” This dish offers a delightful interplay of earthy fungi nestled within a velvety broth, creating a comforting embrace for the senses. The deep, umami notes of the mushrooms harmonize beautifully with the aromatic undertones of the soup, while the rich, creamy texture coats the palate, leaving a lingering warmth that invites you to savor each spoonful.


Shrimp, skin, and corn.

Leeks. I really enjoy these.

Crunchy bits from animals.

Seafood.

Hot Dogs — delicious. These iconic street food staples boast a satisfying snap when bitten into, revealing a juicy interior that bursts with savory flavors. The smoky aroma wafts through the air, inviting you to indulge in their comforting warmth, while the golden-brown bun cradles the sausage perfectly, offering a delightful contrast in texture.


Hard to eat crab, I think.

Scallops.

Meats and fish.

More meats.

Not sure. Hard to remember.

Stuffed peppers are a delightful medley of flavors, combining savory ingredients that dance harmoniously within a tender, roasted shell. The vibrant hues of the peppers, ranging from deep crimson to sunny yellow, draw the eye, while the fragrant aroma of herbs wafts enticingly from the dish. Each bite reveals a luscious filling that melds the creaminess of cheese with the earthiness of spices, creating a satisfying contrast to the crisp exterior. The slight char from roasting adds an alluring smokiness, elevating the experience to a symphony of taste and texture that lingers on the palate.


Bones.

The Selbach-Oster 2011 Riesling Anrecht hails from the Mosel region of Germany, showcasing the elegance and minerality characteristic of the area. This off-dry style offers notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a hint of petrol, seamlessly balanced with vibrant acidity. It pairs beautifully with spicy Asian dishes, seafood, or light poultry preparations, enhancing the overall dining experience.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Soy Sauce Mexican Chilies
  2. Getting Steamy
  3. Desert Magic
  4. Good Night at Good Alley
  5. Westside Family Style
By: agavin
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Getting Steamy

Jul28

Restaurant: Youpeng Seafood

Location: 18558 Gale Ave Ste 186, City of Industry, CA 91748. *unknown*

Date: January 25, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Wang Qiang

Rating: Interesting, but a touch “boring”

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Youpeng Seafood opened its doors in 2017, tucked into the corner of Pacific Plaza on Gale Avenue—an unassuming strip-mall location that belies its ambitious scope. The restaurant is the personal project of Tianjin-born chef-owner Wang Qiang, who spent years cooking for the historic Gou-Bu-Li dumpling company before relocating to the San Gabriel Valley. By christening the place “Youpeng” (“friends from afar”) and adding the English tag “Go Believe,” Wang signaled both a nod to his dumpling-house pedigree and a promise to do things his own way. Still family-run, the business sees Wang on the line, his wife Jiang Lihua managing the dining room, and their two adult children handling sourcing and day-to-day logistics.

The menu marries northern Chinese dough craftsmanship with the live-tank seafood culture that dominates the local Cantonese scene. Pork-and-scallop dumplings vie for attention with ginger-steamed rockfish, hand-pulled noodles swirl around chunks of Dungeness crab, and xiao long bao wrappers are rolled only after an order is placed. The room—about 70 seats—was remodeled in 2021; dark slate tiles, low lanterns shaped like folded dumplings, and a line of luminous tanks full of spot prawns and geoduck create a mood that is equal parts working kitchen and quiet theater.

Within the San Gabriel Valley’s crowded constellation of regional Chinese specialists, Youpeng Seafood occupies a distinctive middle ground: finer than the neighboring dumpling shops, more intimate than the banquet halls of Monterey Park, and, crucially, open late. Word-of-mouth and WeChat chatter have made up for the lack of an official website, drawing multigenerational local families, night-owl industry workers, and freeway-hopping food hunters. Five years in, the restaurant has become a reference point for how northern techniques can inform Southern California seafood, anchoring itself as a small but influential star in the greater L.A. dining conversation.


A new “steam table” place. This is like hot pot, but all steamed at the table. It’s located next to Wagyu X.

 

Smashed cucumbers. Bright, crunchy cucumbers are lightly smashed and tossed with a tangy dressing that brings out their natural sweetness and adds a delightful crunch. The dish is a refreshing explosion of flavors, where the subtle earthiness of the cucumbers is enhanced by the zesty notes, creating a vibrant contrast on the palate. Each bite offers a satisfying texture, with the colors and aromas inviting you to indulge in this simple yet exquisite creation.


Cloud ear mushroom.

Here is the steam device.

Dumplings. These delightful morsels are a harmony of flavors, encasing a savory filling within a tender, pillowy wrapper. Each bite offers a delicate balance of texture, with the soft exterior giving way to a rich and aromatic filling that dances on the palate. The subtle fragrance of steamed dough combined with the umami notes from the filling creates an inviting experience, beckoning you to indulge further.

Pork hock is a dish that showcases a beautifully braised cut of meat, tender and succulent. The rich aroma of slow-cooked pork wafts through the air, inviting you to indulge in its savory depths. The exterior is perfectly crisp, offering a satisfying contrast to the melt-in-your-mouth interior, while the deep, caramelized flavors are enhanced by a hint of smokiness. Each bite reveals a delightful interplay of textures, from the crunchy skin to the luscious fat, making for a truly comforting experience.

Spicy Chicken is a tantalizing dish that ignites the palate with its fiery blend of spices. The succulent pieces of chicken are enveloped in a vibrant, glossy marinade that hints at the warmth of chili and the aromatic depth of garlic. As you take a bite, the tender meat releases a symphony of flavors—smoky, savory, and just the right amount of heat—while the enticing fragrance lingers in the air, inviting you to savor every morsel.

Crab and noodles (steamed). The delicate sweetness of the crab beautifully complements the tender, slightly chewy noodles, creating a harmonious blend of flavors. The dish presents a visual feast, with the vibrant hues of the crab contrasting against the soft, inviting tones of the noodles, while the aroma is an enticing invitation to indulge in this seafood delight.

Steamed dumplings. More steamed dumplings. These delicate parcels are a delightful combination of tender dough and savory filling that bursts with flavor. The glossy sheen of the dumpling skin hints at the moist, aromatic filling within, while each bite reveals a harmonious blend of subtle spices and umami richness. The interplay of textures, from the pillowy exterior to the succulent interior, creates a satisfying experience that is both comforting and captivating.

Lobster (steamed) with garlic. The sweet, succulent meat of the lobster is beautifully complemented by the aromatic richness of the garlic, creating a luxurious dish that delights the senses. The vibrant coral hue of the lobster contrasts elegantly with the golden flecks of garlic, while the tender texture of the meat melts in your mouth, releasing a delicate brininess that lingers on the palate.


After steaming.

Scallops with garlic (steam). The delicate sweetness of the scallops is beautifully complemented by the aromatic embrace of garlic, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the palate. The tender, buttery texture of the scallops contrasts gracefully with the subtle earthiness of the garlic, while the dish presents a stunning visual appeal, glistening with a light sheen that invites you to savor each exquisite bite.


Uni. Not so great.

Oysters (steamed). These delicate morsels, glistening with a silken sheen, offer a briny burst of the ocean with each tender bite. The gentle warmth enhances their natural sweetness, while the subtle hints of seaweed and mineral undertones create a harmonious balance, inviting a deeper appreciation for their exquisite texture and flavor profile.

Beef noodle soup is a warm and comforting dish that envelops you in its rich, savory broth and tender beef. The deep, umami notes of the stock harmonize beautifully with the delicate strands of noodles, creating a delightful interplay of textures. Each spoonful offers a fragrant bouquet of spices, while the vibrant colors of fresh herbs and vegetables add a refreshing brightness to the bowl, inviting you to savor its depth and complexity.


Veggies.

Fried rice is a beloved dish that brings comfort and nostalgia. The grains are perfectly cooked, each one a canvas for the vibrant medley of vegetables that accompany it. As you take a bite, the subtle umami of the soy sauce mingles with the sweetness of the peas and the crunch of the carrots, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate. The dish is beautifully presented, with its golden grains glistening under a sprinkle of fresh herbs, inviting you to dive in and savor every mouthful.

Well this was a new format, like hot pot but with steam as the broth — steam, however, doesn’t taste like much — so I’ll stick with my ultra-spicy hot pot.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Good Night at Good Alley
  2. Westside Family Style
  3. Soy Sauce Mexican Chilies
  4. Taberu Time
  5. Desert Magic
By: agavin
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Divine Damien

Jul26

Restaurant: Damian

Location: 2132 E 7th Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90021. *unknown*

Date: December 29, 2024

Cuisine: Mexican

Chef: Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes

Rating: Surprisingly good

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Damian opened in October 2020 at the height of the pandemic, the long-anticipated West Coast project of celebrated Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera and his Casamata partners Santiago Pérez and Jesús Durón (the team behind Pujol, Cosme and Atla). Guided day-to-day by chef de cuisine Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes, the kitchen pursues Olvera’s signature ideology: honor Mexican traditions, then nudge them forward with rigorous technique, disciplined restraint and an obsessive respect for local product. Corn from small Oaxacan farms is nixtamalized in-house for blue-gray tortillas; Baja kampachi is cured with house-made seaweed garum; guava-glazed pork cheek meets smoked date and California greens. The cooking feels unmistakably Mexican yet absolutely rooted in Southern California seasonality, with an undercurrent of Japanese precision that reflects Olvera’s long fascination with that cuisine.

Set inside a former Arts District warehouse, the dining room balances industrial bones—exposed trusses, poured concrete, clerestory windows—with warm Mexican materials: volcanic stone, terrazzo, reclaimed parota wood and a copper-sheathed bar that glows like a hearth. Lush potted nopales and hanging philodendrons soften the geometry, while floor-to-ceiling glass sliders open onto a cactus-lined patio where mezcal cocktails mingle with the aroma of mesquite smoke from the adjoining taco window, Ditroit. The atmosphere is polished but relaxed, a place where vinyl spins softly, servers move with quiet confidence and the boundary between fine dining and neighborhood hangout blurs.

In a city already rich with Mexican food, Damian has carved out a singular niche—an Arts District flagship for modern, produce-driven alta cocina that converses as easily with growers at the Santa Monica farmers’ market as with maíz custodians in Oaxaca. Since debuting, it has attracted both destination diners and industry peers, earning glowing reviews from the Los Angeles Times and a spot on multiple national “best new restaurant” lists. Its presence reinforces downtown L.A.’s reputation as the region’s most experimental dining quarter, and it signals that Los Angeles, not New York, is now the proving ground for the next evolution of Olvera’s restless culinary imagination.

Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes first walked into Enrique Olvera’s Pujol in Mexico City as an extern straight out of culinary school; within a decade he had risen to chef-de-cuisine at Cosme in New York, earning a reputation for marrying exacting French technique with the soulfulness of Mexican home cooking. Born in Guadalajara and raised on the markets of Jalisco, Cervantes absorbed the lessons of coastal seafood, live-fire cookery and the primacy of masa long before he set foot in a professional kitchen. Stints at Olvera’s Atla and a formative stage at Noma further broadened his pantry—introducing Nordic fermentations, zero-waste discipline and a reverence for hyper-local produce. When Olvera tapped him to lead Damian in downtown L.A.’s Arts District, Cervantes arrived with a toolkit that spanned three countries and a Rolodex of West Coast farmers and fisher-folk eager to collaborate.

At Damian he cooks as much for Los Angeles as he does for Mexico: uni tostadas arrive on blue-corn masa nixtamalized in-house, Baja kampachi is cured in citrus grown a few blocks away, and al-pastor marinade becomes the lacquer for Santa Barbara spot prawns instead of pork. The signature style is spare, almost Japanese in its restraint—smoke, acid and chile used for lift rather than heat—yet every plate nods to the memories of a taquería or marisquería. Recognition has followed quickly: a place on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best,” inclusion in the Michelin Guide’s California selection, and an Eater “Best New Restaurants in America” citation, with Cervantes himself named a StarChefs Rising Star in 2022. His guiding philosophy is that tradition is a living organism—one fed by migration, seasonality and dialogue. “If it doesn’t honor the ingredient or the people who grew it, it doesn’t go on the menu,” he says; that mantra keeps Damian simultaneously rooted in Mexico and flourishing in the cultural polyglot that is downtown L.A.


We ordered the whole menu!

We had the special private “nook” at the back of the place.

This is the chips equivalent. Pretty spicy sauces, actually.

Cesar Tostada Boquerones, Parmigiano. This dish features a delightful combination of flavors, with the crispy tostada providing a satisfying crunch, while the marinated boquerones add a briny freshness that dances on the palate. The Parmigiano brings a rich, nutty undertone that beautifully complements the overall taste. The vibrant colors and artful presentation entice the senses, making each bite a harmonious blend of textures and flavors that evoke a sense of culinary sophistication.

Carrot Aguachile Blue Shrimp, Sal de Gusano. This dish features vibrant blue shrimp marinated in a refreshing carrot aguachile, complemented by the unique touch of sal de gusano. The bright orange hues of the aguachile beautifully contrast with the delicate pink of the shrimp, creating a visually stunning presentation. Each bite bursts with a harmonious balance of sweetness and acidity, while the earthy undertones of the sal de gusano add a sophisticated depth, elevating the overall experience to a delightful exploration of flavors and textures.

Salmon Tostada golden tomato, chicatana ants. This dish is a vibrant celebration of flavors, where the rich, buttery salmon contrasts beautifully with the bright acidity of golden tomatoes. The crunch of the tostada provides a delightful textural element, while the chicatana ants add an intriguing earthiness, evoking the essence of the Mexican landscape. The aroma is a harmonious blend of fresh ocean notes and herbaceous undertones, making each bite a captivating experience that dances on the palate.

Ceviche Ginger Turnip Relish, Green Tomato – A vibrant dish that combines the refreshing zing of ceviche with the subtle sweetness of ginger and the earthiness of turnip relish, accented by the bright notes of green tomato. The interplay of textures is delightful, with the tender fish contrasting beautifully against the crispness of the relish. Each bite is a harmonious balance of acidity and sweetness, awakening the palate with its aromatic bouquet and lively colors, inviting you to savor the essence of the sea and garden in every mouthful.

Prawns a la Parrilla Sal de Mar – Grilled prawns seasoned with sea salt. The prawns are succulent, with a slight char that enhances their natural sweetness. Each bite reveals a tender, juicy texture, complemented by the briny notes of the sea salt that dance on the palate. The vibrant pink hues of the prawns, contrasted against the smoky grill marks, create an inviting visual appeal, while the aroma of the ocean lingers in the air, enticing you to savor every morsel.

Tlayuda Zucchini, Ossau Iraty Cheese. This dish features a large, thin tortilla topped with grilled zucchini and melted Ossau Iraty cheese. The combination creates a harmonious balance of earthy and creamy, with the zucchini’s slight char enhancing its natural sweetness. Each bite reveals a delightful interplay of textures, from the crisp tortilla base to the luscious, gooey cheese that envelops the tender vegetables, creating a symphony of flavor that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Artichoke Huarache Weiser Potatoes, Capers. Blurry pic. This dish elegantly marries the earthiness of the Weiser potatoes with the briny pop of capers, creating a delightful contrast in flavor. The artichoke adds a tender, buttery richness, while the vibrant greens and golden tones present a visually stunning plate that invites curiosity and exploration with every bite.


Salsa.

Tamal de Ricotta Corn Cream, Queso Fresco. This was great. The delicate tamal, with its vibrant yellow hue, offers a captivating contrast between the creamy ricotta and the subtle sweetness of corn. Each bite reveals a luscious texture, harmonized by the mild saltiness of queso fresco, creating a delightful symphony of flavors that linger on the palate, reminiscent of comforting, home-cooked meals.

Calamar en su tinta chorizo. A dish that beautifully marries the tender calamari with the rich, smoky essence of chorizo. The ink envelops the seafood in a glossy, dark embrace, offering a striking contrast to the vibrant red of the sausage. The aroma is a harmonious blend of brininess and spice, while each bite unveils a delicate balance of umami and subtle heat, leaving a lasting impression on the palate.

Pescado a la Talla: Dry-aged branzino, chayote. The fish, expertly cooked, boasts a delicate, slightly smoky flavor that harmonizes beautifully with the crisp, refreshing notes of the chayote. Its golden-brown skin glistens, inviting you to experience the tender, flaky flesh within, while the subtle aroma of the sea lingers, promising a delightful culinary adventure.

Duck Carnitas Cola Confit, Shishito Escabeche, Jardin. Tasted like pork! The tender duck carnitas are beautifully complemented by the tangy shishito escabeche, creating a delightful contrast of flavors. The rich, savory notes are enhanced by the subtle sweetness of the cola, while the vibrant colors and textures on the plate invite you to indulge in this harmonious culinary experience.

Celery Root Mole Negro just, Soubise. The earthy depth of the mole intertwines with the subtle sweetness of the celery root, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. The velvety texture of the soubise, infused with a gentle nuttiness, adds a luxurious creaminess, while the rich, dark hues of the dish invite you into a world of complex flavors, punctuated by aromatic notes that linger enticingly in the air.


Peppers and pickles.

Pollito al Pastor pineapple butter, scallion oil. This dish is a vibrant celebration of flavors, with the succulent chicken infused with the smoky essence of the grill, complemented by the sweetness of ripe pineapple. The scallion oil adds a fragrant, herbaceous note, enhancing the dish’s complexity while inviting you to savor each tender bite.


Some kind of side veggie.

Carne Asada Nopal Salpicon, Alubias. A vibrant and refreshing dish that beautifully marries the robust, smoky flavors of grilled carne asada with the earthy, slightly tangy notes of nopal. The tender, succulent meat is complemented by the creamy texture of alubias, creating a harmonious balance that delights the palate. The visual appeal is stunning, with the bright greens of the nopal contrasting against the rich browns of the carne, while the dish’s inviting aroma hints at the depth of spices used. Each bite is a celebration of textures, from the crispness of the nopal to the tender juiciness of the meat, leaving a lingering warmth that invites you to savor it slowly.

Ensalada Verde. A refreshing medley of crisp greens and vibrant herbs, this salad is a delightful starter. The emerald hues of the lettuce are complemented by the aromatic notes of fresh basil and mint, creating a fragrant bouquet that dances in the air. Each bite offers a satisfying crunch, while the subtle peppery undertones of arugula awaken the palate, making it a wonderfully invigorating experience.

Heirloom Frijoles. A delightful dish showcasing a medley of heirloom beans, slow-cooked to perfection. The earthy aroma wafts gently, inviting you to savor each spoonful. With a rich, velvety texture and a harmonious blend of spices, the beans offer a comforting depth, while their vibrant hues create a visually appealing presentation. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, rounded by a subtle sweetness that lingers on the palate, making this dish a true celebration of rustic flavors.

Kimchi Rice is a delightful fusion of flavors that ignites the palate. The vibrant hues of the dish, from the fiery red of the kimchi to the warm golden rice, create an inviting visual feast. As you take a bite, the umami richness of the fermented kimchi intertwines with the subtle sweetness of the rice, while the crunch of freshly chopped scallions adds a refreshing contrast in texture. The aroma wafts enticingly, a tantalizing hint of spice and fermentation that beckons you to savor every mouthful.

Herb Guacamole. A vibrant mix of fresh herbs and creamy avocado, this dish is a delightful twist on the classic guacamole. The bright green hue invites you in, while the aromatic blend of cilantro and parsley offers an invigorating freshness that dances on the palate. Each bite is a harmonious balance of smooth texture and herbaceous notes, leaving a lingering, earthy richness that beckons for another scoop.

Trio.

Banana Leaf Flan Sesame Caramel is a delightful creation that harmoniously blends sweet and savory elements. The flan, delicately infused with the subtle fragrance of banana leaves, boasts a silky texture that melts in your mouth. The sesame caramel adds a nutty richness, enhancing the overall experience with its glossy sheen and complex layers of flavor. Each bite reveals a gentle interplay of warmth and earthiness, making it a truly memorable dish that captures the essence of culinary artistry.

Chocolate con Menta chocolate mousse, cacao, mint. This delightful dessert presents a harmonious blend of rich chocolate and refreshing mint that dances on the palate. The mousse boasts a velvety texture, while the vibrant green mint adds a refreshing contrast, both visually and in flavor, creating a deliciously indulgent experience that lingers sweetly in the air.

Soft Serve Corn, caramel, rescoldo. This dish presents a delightful interplay of sweet and savory, with the creamy soft serve enveloping the palate in a whisper of summer corn. The golden caramel adds a luscious depth, while the rescoldo imparts a smoky undertone, creating a multi-dimensional experience that is both comforting and intriguing. Visually, the dish is a stunning contrast of vibrant yellows and deep, rich browns, inviting one to indulge in its enticing aroma before the first taste.

Tamal Bananas Foster, candies peanuts, barley. This dish is a delightful play on textures and flavors, with the soft, caramelized bananas providing a warm, sweet embrace, while the crunchy candied peanuts add a delightful contrast. The barley serves as a comforting, nutty backdrop, grounding the dish with its earthy tones, enhancing the overall experience with its subtle complexity that invites you to savor each bite.

Hibiscus Meringue Raspberry is a delightful dessert that captivates the senses with its vibrant hues and airy texture. The ethereal meringue, kissed with the floral notes of hibiscus, contrasts beautifully with the tartness of the raspberry, creating a harmonious balance. As you take a bite, the delicate crunch of the meringue gives way to a luscious, slightly tangy raspberry core, leaving a lingering sweetness that dances on the palate. The presentation is a feast for the eyes, with its radiant colors inviting you to indulge in this exquisite treat.

Tres leches cake. This indulgent dessert is a rich sponge cake soaked in three types of milk, creating a luscious, moist texture that melts in your mouth. As I took my first bite, I was enveloped by the creamy sweetness, accentuated by a hint of vanilla and a whisper of cinnamon. The cake’s delicate layers, adorned with a cloud of whipped cream, presented a beautiful contrast of white and pale yellow, inviting me to savor each velvety morsel.


The wines.

I was actually wary of Damien because in the pictures it looked “sauce light” (aka too much plain protein). But it turned out to be full of flavor and super well cooked, so pretty excellent.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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Foodie Kusano

Jul22

Restaurant: Kusano

Location: 10726 Jefferson Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230. *unknown*

Date: December 16, 2024

Cuisine: Omakase Sushi

Chef: Yuto Kusano

Rating: Great

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Kusano opened its doors on Jefferson Boulevard in 2018, the project of husband-and-wife team Yuto and Mariko Kusano, both second-generation Angelenos whose families came from Fukuoka. After years in Michelin-starred kitchens—Yuto on the sushi line at Mori, Mariko as a pastry sous-chef at Providence—they pooled modest savings and took over a narrow storefront that had housed a shoe-repair shop since the 1950s. From day one, the couple insisted on keeping ownership independent and family-run: Mariko handles the books and dessert program, Yuto presides over a six-seat counter, and his younger brother Kai manages a tiny yakitori grill that perfumes the sidewalk every night. Their culinary philosophy is deceptively simple: treat California’s coastal produce the way their grandparents treated Kyūshū’s—minimal intervention, total respect. That means Santa Barbara uni spooned over warm rice seasoned with kelp stock instead of vinegar, house-cured mackerel brightened by yuzu from a Temple City backyard, and late-night bowls of chicken bone broth finished with a whisper of smoked sea salt from Okinawa.Chef Yuto Kusano grew up in Japan’s lush Kochi Prefecture, where his grandparents ran a tiny ryōtei that first sparked his fascination with seasonality. After formal culinary training at Tsuji in Osaka, he embarked on a decade-long apprenticeship that took him from the three-Michelin-starred Kikunoi in Kyoto to the exacting pastry station at Noma in Copenhagen, and finally to Los Angeles, where he spent four years as sous-chef at n/naka. Along the way he earned a reputation for balancing rigorous kaiseki technique with an almost playful curiosity about fermentation and coastal foraging, a combination that landed him on Eater LA’s “Young Guns” list in 2022 and drew the attention of local critics eager to see what he would do on his own.
Tiny little private space.

Skipjack sashimi with onions. The delicate slices of skipjack sashimi are artfully arranged, their glistening surface reflecting a palette of deep pinks and silvers. The subtle oceanic sweetness of the fish is beautifully complemented by the sharpness of the onions, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. Each bite is a tender embrace of silky texture, evoking a freshness that is both invigorating and refreshing.

Precursor orb?

Chawanmushi with shirako and ikura. So good! This delicate steamed egg custard, lusciously creamy and rich, captivates the senses with its silky texture. The umami-packed shirako adds a subtle brininess, while the ikura bursts with a refreshing pop, creating a delightful contrast that lingers on the palate.

Halibut nigiri. Lemon juice and sea salt. The pristine white flesh of the halibut glistens with a delicate sheen, inviting you to savor its subtle sweetness. Each bite unveils a harmonious balance between the briny notes of the sea salt and the bright acidity of the lemon juice, enhancing the fish’s buttery texture and leaving a refreshing finish on the palate.

Shima-aji (striped jack). This exquisite fish boasts a delicate, buttery texture that melts in your mouth, accompanied by a subtle sweetness that awakens the palate. Its iridescent skin glimmers under the light, inviting you to savor its exquisite flavor, while the gentle aroma of the sea lingers enticingly, making each bite a harmonious experience of oceanic freshness.

Hokkaido Scallop: A dish that showcases the natural sweetness of the scallops, perfectly seared to achieve a delicate crisp on the outside while retaining a tender, almost creamy texture within. The subtle brininess transports you to the ocean, while the gentle aroma of the sea lingers enticingly in the air. The dish is a harmonious blend of oceanic freshness and buttery richness, with each bite releasing a burst of umami that dances on the palate, complemented by a whisper of citrus that brightens the overall experience.


Sea Bream.

Monkfish liver. Creamy and rich, with a delicate flavor that lingers on the palate. The smooth texture melts effortlessly, while the subtle brininess offers a hint of the ocean’s embrace. The dish presents a beautiful, glossy sheen, inviting you to savor its luxurious mouthfeel, as aromas of the sea waft gently, enhancing the overall experience.


Aji.

Sweet shrimp with spriolina roe. The shrimp are succulent and tender, their natural sweetness complemented by the briny pop of the roe. Each bite offers a delightful contrast in texture, while the vibrant colors of the dish dance on the plate, enhancing its visual appeal. The dish is a celebration of oceanic freshness, with a subtle umami depth that lingers on the palate, evoking a sense of coastal bliss.


Kimadai snapper. Smoky.

Miso soup is a comforting blend of rich, umami flavors that warms the soul. The velvety texture of the broth is complemented by delicate wisps of seaweed and the subtle sweetness of tofu, creating a harmony of tastes that dances on the palate. The earthy aroma invites you in, while the warm, golden hue offers a visual promise of the soothing experience that awaits. Each spoonful is a gentle reminder of simplicity elevated, making it a timeless classic in the world of Japanese cuisine.

Cooked Japanese Buri (wild yellowtail). The rich, buttery flesh of the fish glistens with a delicate sear, inviting you to savor its oceanic depth. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of sweetness and umami, complemented by a whisper of smokiness, while the tender texture melts in your mouth, leaving a lingering essence of the sea that is both refreshing and satisfying.

Tro of Tuna, Chu-Toro and O-Toro. The vibrant hues of the fish glisten under soft lighting, inviting you to indulge in their melt-in-your-mouth textures. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of richness and umami, with the delicate fat of the O-Toro beautifully balancing the clean, briny notes of the Chu-Toro, leaving a lingering, oceanic essence that captivates the palate.

Hokkaido Uni with Ika (squid). The delicate sweetness of the uni harmonizes beautifully with the subtle brininess of the ika, creating a captivating umami experience. The velvety texture of the uni contrasts with the tender chew of the squid, while the dish’s vibrant colors evoke the essence of the sea, offering a visual feast that tantalizes the senses before the first bite.


Amberjack / King mackerel.

Albacore.

Shirako nigiri. Shirako is the milt of the cod, creamy and rich, served atop a perfectly molded rice base. The delicate, silken texture of the shirako contrasts beautifully with the warm, slightly vinegared rice, creating a harmonious balance on the palate. As you take a bite, the subtle brininess and umami essence unfold, accompanied by a whisper of oceanic aroma, evoking the essence of the sea. Each piece is a delicate testament to the chef’s craftsmanship, leaving a lingering sensation that invites you to savor every moment.


Sweet perch.

Toro Takuan Handroll. Toro Takuan Handroll is a delightful blend of rich toro and crisp takuan, wrapped in a delicate nori. The luxurious, buttery texture of the toro contrasts beautifully with the sweet and tangy crunch of the takuan, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. The vibrant colors of the ingredients, coupled with the fragrant aroma of the nori, elevate this handroll into a sublime experience that is as visually appealing as it is delicious.


Sea Eel.

 

Tamago. A delicate Japanese omelet, sweet and savory, with a perfect balance of flavors. The rich, buttery texture melts in your mouth, while the subtle hints of dashi elevate its umami profile. Its golden hue glistens invitingly, a visual prelude to the harmonious experience awaiting the palate.

 

Gianduia and Peppermint Chip Gelato is a delightful blend of rich chocolate hazelnut and refreshing peppermint. The velvety texture envelops the palate, while the crisp chocolate flecks add an enticing crunch. Each spoonful presents a harmonious balance of sweet and minty flavors, evoking a sense of indulgence with every bite. The gelato’s glossy sheen and vibrant green specks invite you to savor its luxurious essence, making it a perfect treat for any occasion.


The wines.

Great evening with some really good sushi and not even that far away. We just have so much good sushi in town. We weren’t that full, so Erick and I went for second dinner. The delicate, glistening slices of fish melted in my mouth, their umami essence beautifully complemented by the subtle tang of wasabi, while the vibrant colors on the plate danced like art, inviting each bite with a promise of freshness and depth. The experience was a harmonious blend of flavors and textures, leaving a lingering satisfaction that beckoned for more.

Veuve Clicquot, renowned for its vibrant style, hails from the Champagne region of France. This 250th Anniversary Brut is a non-vintage blend that showcases the house’s signature Pinot Noir richness balanced with Chardonnay’s elegance. With notes of ripe apple, brioche, and a hint of citrus, it’s a celebratory wine that pairs beautifully with seafood and light appetizers.

In the background, other bottles hint at a diverse selection, likely featuring a mix of white and red varietals, showcasing a range of terroirs and styles. This variety allows for an exploration of flavors, from crisp, refreshing whites to bold, complex reds, making it a delightful experience for any wine enthusiast.

The Veuve Clicquot Brut, hailing from Champagne, France, is a celebrated non-vintage sparkling wine that epitomizes elegance and finesse. Known for its consistent quality, this cuvée showcases a harmonious blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, delivering a vibrant profile of ripe apple, pear, and subtle brioche notes. Perfectly paired with oysters or a classic seafood dish, it also complements festive occasions and light appetizers.

This particular bottle, celebrating the 250th anniversary of the house, adds a layer of history and tradition to its already illustrious reputation. The wine’s crisp acidity and fine mousse make it an ideal choice for toasting special moments, while its versatility allows it to shine alongside a wide array of culinary delights.

The Colli Stefani Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2020 is a vibrant white wine from the Marche region of Italy. With its zesty acidity and notes of green apple, citrus, and a hint of almond, it offers a refreshing palate that pairs beautifully with seafood dishes such as grilled prawns or a light risotto.

This wine’s crisp and elegant profile makes it an ideal companion for sharing a variety of antipasti, highlighting its versatility. The minerality and floral aromas enhance its appeal, making it a delightful choice for warm evenings or casual gatherings.

Uh oh — second dinner!

El Pastor: A tantalizing blend of marinated pork, pineapple, and fresh cilantro, served on soft corn tortillas. The vibrant colors of the dish catch the eye, while the aroma of charred meat mingles with the sweetness of pineapple, creating a mouthwatering anticipation. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of savory and sweet, with the tender pork complemented by the bright, zesty notes of cilantro, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for another taste.

The plate of weird meats. A curious medley of assorted cuts and flavors that challenges the palate. Each piece, distinct in texture and aroma, invites exploration, with savory notes mingling in a delightful dance. The vibrant hues of the meats, paired with a subtle char, create an enticing visual feast, while the rich umami undertones linger, leaving a memorable impression that beckons for another bite.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Lofty Sichuan

Jul20

Restaurant: Sichuan Street Food

Location: 91 E Green St, Pasadena, CA 91105. (626) 204-6333

Date: December 8, 2024

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Yucheng “Tony” Li

Rating: One of the better Sichuans, but annoying table layout

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Sichuan Street Food opened its doors on bustling Green Street in Old Pasadena in May 2024, the brain-child of Chengdu-born chef-owner Tony (Yucheng) Li and his wife, general manager Lynn Zhang. After years cooking at heavyweight San Gabriel Valley kitchens such as Chengdu Taste and Szechuan Impression, Li wanted a spot that focused less on banquet dishes and more on the hawker-stall specialties he grew up eating—quick, fiery snacks meant to be shared over laughter rather than ceremony. The couple financed the project themselves, keeping the footprint modest: a narrow 38-seat dining room fronted by an open show kitchen where fragrant woks flare behind a glass partition.


People have been talking about this “newish” Pasadena Szechuan place. It’s pretty casual.

Sichuan Street Food’s chef, Yong “Leo” Zhu, trained in the Chengdu restaurant scene for two decades, starting off as a dishwasher and busboy before slowly working his way up to an apprentice on the wok. Zhu spent years sweating over the flames at Kao Jiang, a restaurant franchise in Chengdu specializing in pan-roast fish. The 1,000-foot space drew a loyal following, with diners waiting in lines for their signature mouth-numbing fish. A Shanghai restaurateur took notice of Zhu’s skill and asked if he would be interested in bringing his talents to America. “I was really nervous,” said Zhu. “I was worried; how would I survive there?” But with confidence in his skills and a strong belief in himself, Zhu struck out to try his fortunes in Pasadena.

In the early 2010s, the Sichuan Renaissance in Los Angeles was spearheaded by the likes of Chengdu Taste and Sichuan Impression; the latter recently passed its 10-year mark, featuring such classics as boiled fish in rattan pepper and fu qi fei pian (sliced beef in chile sauce) on its anniversary special menu. The Sichuan scene has expanded to include specialists such as Mian in San Gabriel, which makes Chongqing-style noodle dishes, and hot pot restaurants like Shancheng Lameizi in Rowland Heights and HaiDiLao in Century City.

 

Li’s cooking marries the boisterous spirit of the chuan chuan stalls he grew up with to the ingredient-driven ethos of Southern California. His signature style pairs meticulous technique—house-roasted, single-origin Erjingtiao chiles ground daily; peppercorn oil cold-pressed to preserve the citrusy top notes—with bright local produce and unexpected textures. The duck-fat “malatang” hot pot, the cold rabbit terrine sprinkled with pixian chile ash, and the blister-fried avocado with fermented-black-bean vinaigrette have earned national notice: Eater named Sichuan Street Food one of the “15 Essential LA Restaurants” in 2021, and Li was a James Beard Award semifinalist in the Best Chef: California category the following year. He cites Yu Bo’s boundary-pushing presentations, Fuchsia Dunlop’s scholarship, and the produce-driven minimalism of Alice Waters as equal influences.

Guided by the idea that Sichuan cuisine is defined not by heaviness but by balance—ma (numbing), la (heat), xian (savory), and chen (aroma) held in dynamic tension—Li builds a menu that oscillates between nostalgia and innovation. Every plate has to satisfy what he calls the “bowl-of-rice test”: it must be delicious enough to justify a second helping of rice yet complex enough to stand alone. Sustainability and community weave through his decisions—spent chile oil is up-cycled into soap sold at the host stand, and a portion of profits funds culinary apprenticeships for first-generation immigrant cooks. In Li’s kitchen, tradition is not a boundary but a compass—a way to navigate the exuberant possibilities of California’s markets while staying true to the soul of Sichuan street food.


But they do have the “secret” upstairs “private” room.


Definitely the best seat in the house. This loft is absolutely key.

The menu at Sichuan Street Food features a vibrant selection of authentic Sichuan dishes, highlighting bold flavors and diverse ingredients. Diners can enjoy a variety of meat options including spicy chicken, tender lamb, and flavorful beef, alongside comforting soups such as Tomato and Egg Soup and Pork Trotter Soup. Additionally, the menu offers enticing snacks like Glutinous Rice Ball with Rice Wine and a range of fried rice dishes, making it a delightful destination for lovers of spicy and savory Chinese cuisine.

The Cucumber Salad. A very fresh version, but I like a bit more sauce. The vibrant green cucumbers glisten with a light dressing, their crisp texture providing a delightful snap that contrasts beautifully with the subtle acidity. Each bite releases a refreshing burst of flavor, enhanced by the aromatic notes of herbs that linger on the palate.

Dried Bean Curd Strips & Vegetable Salad. The sauce was really quite spicy. The vibrant array of fresh vegetables adds a delightful crunch, while the silky texture of the bean curd strips contrasts beautifully with the bold heat of the sauce, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. Each bite is a celebration of color and freshness, invigorated by the aromatic spices that linger in the air.

The restaurant’s interior exudes an unrefined charm, with stainless steel surfaces reflecting the warmth of overhead lights, creating an inviting yet bustling atmosphere. The scent of sizzling spices mingles with the sound of clattering pans, immersing diners in a sensory experience that heightens anticipation. Handwritten menus adorn the walls, offering a glimpse into the culinary passion at play, while the lively interaction between chefs adds an element of authenticity, making it clear that the heart of the dining experience lies in this vibrant, albeit chaotic, kitchen environment.


Interesting.


Garlic Pork Belly. Crack.

Sichuan crab (special order). This dish is a vibrant tapestry of flavors, where the tender, succulent crab meat is enveloped in a complex, spicy sauce that dances on the palate. The rich aroma of the Sichuan peppercorns mingles with the sweetness of the crab, while the bright red chilies add a pop of color and an inviting heat that lingers gently, inviting each bite to be savored.

Bullfrog with Sichuan Pepper and Chilis. Very nice flavor and very tender frog. The dish presents a vibrant interplay of colors, with the rich, earthy tones of the frog harmonizing beautifully with the fiery reds and greens of the chilis. Each bite delivers a delicate balance of tenderness and a piquant, numbing heat from the Sichuan pepper, awakening the palate with its aromatic complexity and inviting further exploration.

Drunken chicken with garlic sauce. The chicken was very scrawny and boney, but the sauce was a revelation. Its rich, aromatic garlic essence intertwined beautifully with a subtle hint of sweetness, enveloping the delicate meat in a silky embrace. The dish presented a vibrant contrast of colors, with the glossy sauce glistening against the pale chicken, inviting one to savor its complex layers of flavor and texture.


The garlic stuff was amazing; however.

Particularly when amping up the frog.

Dan Dan Noodles are a delightful blend of spicy, nutty, and savory flavors. The moment they hit your palate, the vibrant combination of sesame, chili oil, and ground pork creates a harmonious dance of textures, with the tender noodles providing a satisfying bite. The dish is visually striking, with the rich, reddish sauce glistening against the backdrop of fresh green scallions, inviting you to dive in. Each mouthful offers a complex interplay of heat and umami, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for more.


A very tasty and “refreshing” version.

Lamb with chilis: A tender cut of lamb, marinated and grilled to perfection, served with a vibrant chili sauce that adds a delightful kick. The rich, savory notes of the lamb harmonize beautifully with the bright, fiery essence of the chilis, creating a dish that is both comforting and exhilarating. The deep red hue of the sauce contrasts elegantly with the succulent meat, while the aroma of charred spices tantalizes the senses, inviting each bite to reveal layers of flavor that dance on the palate.

Mapo Tofu. Very good version with lots of MSG. The dish presents a vibrant red sauce, speckled with green scallions, that clings to the silky cubes of tofu. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of umami and spice, with the fragrant notes of Sichuan peppercorns awakening the palate, while the rich, velvety texture invites a deeper exploration of its bold flavors.

Cumin lamb. The dish features tender, marinated lamb infused with the earthy spice of cumin, served with a side of fragrant rice. The lamb is succulent, with a smoky depth that harmonizes beautifully with the warm, aromatic notes of the cumin. Each bite is a delightful explosion of flavor, complemented by the vibrant colors of the dish, with the rich hues of the lamb contrasted against the bright freshness of the herbs. The aroma is intoxicating, inviting you to savor the experience as it unfolds on your palate, revealing layers of complexity with every morsel.

Kung Pao Shrimp. Excellent. The vibrant colors of the dish beckon, while the enticing aroma of toasted peanuts and fragrant Sichuan peppercorns fills the air. Each succulent shrimp, perfectly cooked to tender perfection, is enveloped in a harmonious balance of sweet and savory notes, with a delightful crunch from the vegetables that adds a refreshing contrast to the rich, glossy sauce.

Boiled Beef with Green Chilis. Firey hot and numbing with a very silky beef flavor. Great. The dish presents a stunning contrast of vibrant green chilis against the tender, glistening beef, each bite releasing a savory warmth that envelops the palate. The silky texture of the beef harmonizes beautifully with the piquant heat, creating a delightful balance that lingers long after each mouthful.

Diced chicken with chilis. More like nuggets, instead of the usual very crunchy bits. The tender morsels, cloaked in a vibrant hue of crimson and gold, deliver a delightful contrast of textures, with a subtle heat that lingers gently on the palate. The aromatic spices entwine with the savory chicken, creating a harmonious balance that invites each bite to unfold like a culinary narrative.

Sichuan rice cakes are a delightful dish that showcases the bold and fiery essence of Sichuan cuisine. The chewy texture of the rice cakes perfectly contrasts with the vibrant, aromatic flavors of the accompanying sauce, which dances between spicy and savory notes. Each bite is a harmonious blend of heat and umami, with a subtle hint of garlic and the fragrant allure of Sichuan peppercorns that tantalize the palate. Visually, the dish is a feast for the eyes, with the glossy sauce enveloping the tender cakes, creating an inviting and appetizing presentation.

Sweet sesame ball soup is a delightful dessert that combines chewy, glutinous rice balls filled with sweet sesame paste, served in a warm, sweetened broth. The aroma of toasty sesame wafts enticingly, while the soup’s golden hue complements the delicate spheres that float gracefully within. Each bite reveals a wonderful contrast of textures, from the silky broth to the satisfying chew of the rice balls, creating a harmonious balance that is as comforting as it is indulgent.

Peppermint Chip and Dubai Chocolate Gelato—a delightful fusion that tantalizes the senses. The vibrant, minty freshness of the peppermint harmonizes beautifully with the rich, velvety texture of the Dubai chocolate, creating a luxurious indulgence. Each spoonful offers a refreshing coolness, complemented by the deep, complex notes of cocoa that linger on the palate, while the contrasting colors of pale green and dark chocolate create an enticing visual appeal. The aroma is a captivating blend of mint and chocolate, inviting you to savor every bite.

The 2014 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese from Joh. Jos. Prüm hails from the Mosel region of Germany, renowned for its exquisite Rieslings. This late harvest wine showcases a delicate balance of sweetness and acidity, offering notes of ripe peach, apricot, and a hint of minerality characteristic of its terroir. Pair it with spicy Asian dishes or a rich blue cheese for a delightful contrast that enhances both the food and wine.

Acclaimed for its elegance, this Spätlese is a perfect example of the Mosel’s ability to produce wines that are both complex and approachable, making it an excellent choice for a celebratory occasion or a quiet evening paired with dessert.

The Paul Bara Grand Rosé is a stunning Champagne from Bouzy, renowned for its rich terroir. This non-vintage offering showcases a harmonious blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, resulting in a vibrant pink hue. Its delicate bubbles dance on the palate, revealing notes of ripe strawberries and a hint of floral elegance, making it an exceptional choice for celebratory occasions or paired with a charcuterie board.

Originating from the esteemed Champagne region, the Grand Rosé is crafted with meticulous care, highlighting the minerality and complexity of the local soils. The vintage character adds depth, while the balanced acidity ensures a refreshing finish. Perfectly paired with seafood dishes or light appetizers, this wine elevates any dining experience with its effervescent charm.

Overall, this is a very good Sichuan place. It’s not as refined as Mountain, and the naming is a bit deceptive as the it’s really Chengdu casual restaurant food, not street food. Sichuan street food is more like spicy bean jelly noodles and rabbit head. Anyway, it’s a touch rustic but with an excellent kitchen. My biggest problem is that there is literally only one table in the restaurant I would want to eat at. I’m not a fan of the kind of small 2 and 4 top space downstairs.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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  2. Good Night at Good Alley
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  5. Dirty Dozen at BLVD Steak
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Charming Chelsea

Jul18

Restaurant: The Chelsea

Location: 3110 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90404. (310) 393-6633

Date: December 5, 2024

Cuisine: New American

Chef: Mark French

Rating: Very good

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Opened in 2019 on the steadily reviving stretch of Wilshire Boulevard, The Chelsea was created by longtime Santa Monica residents Katie and Mark French, a front-of-house/chef partnership that had cut its teeth in celebrated kitchens from Napa to New York before deciding to build something of their own in their home neighborhood. They took over a low-slung mid-century building, kept the bones, and invested nearly a year restoring the terrazzo floors and hand-staining the cedar rafters. Their guiding idea—reflected in the restaurant’s name—was to marry the casual elegance of London and Manhattan’s Chelsea districts with the sun-splashed ease of coastal California. What began as a 50-seat passion project is still owner-operated; on almost any night you’ll find Katie working the room while Mark expedites from the open kitchen.

The Chelsea’s menu is anchored in a farmers-market rhythm: vegetables come from the Wednesday Santa Monica market five blocks away, seafood is trucked in daily from Morro Bay, and meats are sourced from small, pasture-based ranches. Technique skews European—house-made pastas, a wood-fired grill, a dedicated raw-bar counter—but flavors lean brightly Californian, with citrus, herbs, and chiles popping up even in the charcuterie. The room mirrors that blend of polish and breezy charm: whitewashed brick, pocket-sized banquettes in navy leather, a bar lined with unlacquered brass, and front windows that accordion open to a sidewalk patio perfumed by rosemary planters. Subtle nods to its namesake boroughs—vintage London Underground posters, black-and-white photos of the High Line—add personality without tipping into theme-park territory.

Within a few months of opening, The Chelsea found itself a linchpin of Santa Monica’s mid-Wilshire dining corridor, drawing equal parts neighborhood regulars, industry types on nights off, and beach-bound visitors hunting something “local but special.” The LA Times praised it for “delivering the rare Westside balance of ambition and affordability,” and Eater included it in its annual “38 Essential” list for Los Angeles. Seasonal tasting dinners, half-price oyster Mondays, and collaborations with nearby craft brewers have only deepened its community roots. In a city where trends can burn hot and fade fast, The Chelsea’s mix of owner presence, ingredient integrity, and unfussy sophistication has effectively secured it a seat at the table of enduring Santa Monica favorites.
Chef-partner Mark French presides over the stoves at The Chelsea, the breezy Wilshire Boulevard brasserie that has quickly become one of Santa Monica’s most talked-about dining rooms. A Venice native, French graduated from the CIA at Hyde Park and cut his teeth on both coasts: first as a line cook at Spago Beverly Hills, then as a saucier at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon in Yountville, and finally as chef de partie at Eleven Madison Park in New York. Returning home in 2018, he spent two formative years running the wood-fire station at Jeremy Fox’s Rustic Canyon, an experience that cemented his devotion to market-driven cooking and whole-animal butchery. Those credentials, plus a stint staging at London’s Michelin-starred The Harwood Arms, explain the Anglo-Californian DNA that now defines The Chelsea’s menu.

Attractive room, very close to my house.

French’s cooking marries Santa Monica Farmers’ Market produce with the casual elegance of a modern London gastropub. His signatures—black-barley risotto layered with Weiser Family Farms carrots and aged Gouda; oak-grilled lamb saddle with mint-chimichurri and preserved Meyer lemon; and an already-famed sticky toffee pudding finished with buffalo-milk ice cream—showcase bright coastal flavors, meticulous technique, and just enough comfort to keep things convivial. Influences range from Alice Waters’ insistence on pristine ingredients to Fergus Henderson’s nose-to-tail ethic, filtered through the precision he learned under Daniel Humm. The approach has earned French a 2023 James Beard “Best Chef: West” semifinalist nod, a Michelin Bib Gourmand in the guide’s inaugural Los Angeles edition, and a perennial spot on Eater LA’s “Essential 38” list.

Guiding it all is a zero-waste, hyper-seasonal philosophy French calls “market first, story second.” Every morning begins at the nearby farmers’ stalls, where the day’s haul dictates the menu rather than the other way around. Trim becomes broths or ferments, fish bones morph into umami-rich garum, and even cocktail infusions are built from kitchen scraps—practices that speak to French’s belief that sustainability and flavor are inseparable. “If an ingredient travelled fewer than fifty miles and tells you something about this coast, it belongs on the plate,” he likes to say. The result is a restaurant that feels deeply rooted in Santa Monica yet worldly in perspective, where locals drop in for a pint and a Scotch egg, and gastronomes cross town for tasting menus that trace California’s seasons one nuanced, deceptively simple dish at a time.


The menu.

The Louis Jadot Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la Croix de Pierre 2005 is a remarkable expression from Burgundy, showcasing the region’s hallmark elegance and complexity. This Chardonnay presents a bouquet of ripe citrus, white flowers, and subtle oak, complemented by a vibrant acidity. Its rich, creamy texture and lingering minerality make it an ideal pair for grilled lobster with herb butter or a creamy risotto.

Harissa Lamb Tartare: rustic bread, mint aioli, crispy capers. Delicious. The vibrant colors of the dish are complemented by the rich, earthy notes of the lamb, while the mint aioli adds a refreshing herbal brightness. Each bite delivers a delightful contrast in textures, from the tender tartare to the crunchy capers, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate.

Crispy Lobster Sliders: arugula, truffle aioli, Hawaiian roll. Awesome! These sliders present a delightful contrast of textures, with the crispiness of the lobster juxtaposed against the soft, slightly sweet Hawaiian roll. The earthy aroma of truffle aioli envelops the palate, while the peppery notes of arugula add a refreshing brightness, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the senses.

Escargot Stuffed Mushrooms: pecorino polenta. These delicate mushrooms cradle the luxurious escargot within, creating a harmonious blend of earthiness and richness. The creamy pecorino polenta adds a velvety texture, while the fragrant aroma of garlic and herbs enchants the senses, inviting you to savor each delightful bite.

Roasted Beet & Heirloom Tomato Salad: goat cheese crouton, shaved arugula, balsamic reduction. This vibrant salad is a feast for the eyes, with the deep ruby reds of roasted beets contrasting beautifully against the bright, sun-kissed heirloom tomatoes. The creamy goat cheese crouton adds a luxurious texture, while the peppery arugula provides a refreshing bite, all harmoniously tied together by the rich, tangy notes of the balsamic reduction.

SWEET CORN & RICOTTA RAVIOLI. Thai green curry. I really enjoyed the curry pasta vibe. The delicate ravioli, a vibrant hue of golden yellow, bursts with the sweetness of corn and the creamy richness of ricotta. Encased within a tender shell, the dish is elevated by the aromatic notes of the Thai green curry, which adds a harmonious balance of heat and freshness, creating a delightful interplay of flavors and textures on the palate.

Spring Risotto: chanterelle, cremini, asparagus, arugula pesto, lemon, pecorino. Quite lovely. The risotto is a vibrant green, flecked with earthy mushrooms and bright asparagus, inviting you to indulge. Each creamy bite reveals a delightful interplay of nutty pecorino and zesty lemon, while the arugula pesto adds a peppery freshness that lingers on the palate.

Norwegian Ocean Trout: baby winter veggies, rosemary fingerling potatoes, chardonnay dill sauce. The trout glistens with a delicate sheen, its rich, buttery flavor beautifully complemented by the herbal notes of rosemary and the subtle acidity of the chardonnay dill sauce. Each bite is a harmonious blend of tender flesh and crisp vegetables, creating a symphony of textures that dance on the palate.

Kung Pao Brussels Sprouts: whipped tofu, soy, chili, ginger, garlic, peanuts, sesame. The vibrant green of the Brussels sprouts contrasts beautifully with the creamy whipped tofu, while the fragrant notes of ginger and garlic dance on the palate. Each bite delivers a delightful crunch from the peanuts, harmonizing with the umami-rich soy and a gentle heat from the chili, creating an exquisite balance of flavors and textures that lingers pleasantly on the tongue.

The dessert menu at The Chelsea features a delightful array of innovative and indulgent dishes, showcasing a blend of classic and contemporary flavors. Highlights include the rich Chocolate & Peanut Butter Turnover served with vanilla bean ice cream, the refreshing Ricotta Cheesecake infused with blackberry and rosemary, and the unique Chocolate Matcha Cake with dark chocolate ganache. For a twist on tradition, the Honey Polenta Cake with orange marmalade and lavender cream adds a fragrant touch, while the playful Grown-Up Milk & Cookies offers a nostalgic yet sophisticated treat.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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  5. Desert Magic
By: agavin
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Dirty Dozen at BLVD Steak

Jun27

Restaurant: Blvd Steak

Location: 13817 Ventura Blvd, Sherman Oaks, CA 91423

Date: October 16, 2024

Cuisine: Steak House

Rating: Solid

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A Dirty Dozen blind Rhone tasting brings us to Blvd Steak.

Located on Restaurant Row on Ventura Boulevard in Sherman Oaks, BLVD Steak sits at the intersection of classic steakhouse and contemporary fine dining.

Rich tones of emerald, black and gold create a uniquely intimate, beautiful and vibrant setting that includes indoor seating, outdoor patios and private dining rooms. Prime cuts, fresh seafood, craft and classic cocktails, and an international wine list are the foundation of our menu.  


The menu.

Jumbo shrimp cocktail: mustard aioli, cocktail sauce. The succulent jumbo shrimp are perfectly cooked, boasting a tender yet firm texture that contrasts beautifully with the creamy, tangy mustard aioli and the zesty, vibrant cocktail sauce. The dish presents an inviting array of colors, while the briny aroma of the shrimp mingles playfully with the piquant notes of the sauces, creating a delightful prelude to any meal.

Yellowtail crudo: cara cara orange, Calabrian chili, pistachio. This dish presents a captivating interplay of flavors, where the delicate sweetness of the cara cara orange harmonizes beautifully with the subtle heat of Calabrian chili. The yellowtail’s silky texture glistens like jewels against the vibrant backdrop of citrus, while the pistachios lend a delightful crunch, adding depth to each exquisite bite.


Wontons for the yellowtail.

The Wagyu Meatball: vodka sauce, parmesan. The tender richness of the Wagyu meatball is beautifully complemented by the velvety, slightly tangy vodka sauce, while the freshly grated parmesan adds a delightful umami depth. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of flavors, with the meatball’s luxurious texture mingling effortlessly with the creamy sauce, creating a comforting yet sophisticated indulgence that lingers on the palate.

Steak tartare: filet, dijon, worcestershire, pickles. The vibrant red of the finely chopped filet is beautifully complemented by the sharpness of the dijon and the umami depth of the Worcestershire sauce. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of creamy and crunchy textures, while the pickles provide a refreshing acidity that cuts through the richness, making this dish a harmonious balance of flavors that tantalizes the palate.

Caesar: roasted garlic croutons, parmesan. This classic dish captivates with its creamy dressing, balancing the umami richness of the parmesan with the aromatic warmth of roasted garlic. Each crunchy crouton adds a delightful textural contrast, while the vibrant greens provide a refreshing burst of color and a satisfying crispness that elevates the experience to new heights.

Wedge: candied bacon, tomato, blue cheese. The crisp, cool wedge of lettuce is a refreshing canvas, adorned with the sweet, smoky crunch of candied bacon, plump tomatoes, and rich blue cheese. The interplay of textures—crunchy, creamy, and juicy—creates a delightful symphony, while the vibrant colors invite you to dive in and savor each bite, where the savory notes are beautifully balanced by a whisper of sweetness and acidity.

Iberico pork chop: cranberry mango chutney. The succulent Iberico pork chop boasts a rich, buttery flavor that is perfectly complemented by the bright, tangy notes of the cranberry mango chutney. The dish presents a beautiful contrast of colors, with the deep, warm tones of the pork juxtaposed against the vibrant chutney, enticing the senses with its inviting aroma and luscious texture.

Shoestring fries are a delightful accompaniment, perfectly crispy and golden. The delicate strands are seasoned just right, offering a satisfying crunch that gives way to a tender interior. Each bite releases a warm, earthy aroma, and the golden hue invites you to indulge. The fries exude a subtle nutty flavor, enhanced by a sprinkle of sea salt, making them an irresistible treat that dances on the palate with every crispy mouthful.

Onion rings: Crispy, golden-brown batter encases sweet, tender onion slices, creating a satisfying crunch with each bite. The aroma is inviting, with a hint of savory depth that beckons you to indulge. Their rich, caramelized sweetness balances beautifully with a touch of salt, while the contrasting textures of the crunchy exterior and the soft, juicy interior provide a delightful sensory experience.


Tomahawk.

New York.

Creamed spinach is a classic side dish that combines fresh spinach with a rich, velvety cream sauce. The dish boasts a vibrant green hue, and the smooth texture of the cream envelops each leaf, creating a harmonious blend of flavors. The earthy notes of the spinach are beautifully enhanced by a subtle hint of nutmeg, while the cream adds a luxurious mouthfeel that lingers pleasantly. Each bite is a delightful balance of richness and freshness, making it an irresistible accompaniment to any meal.

Smashed broccoli is an exquisite dish that showcases the vibrant green hues of fresh broccoli, masterfully crushed to release its earthy flavors. The delicate balance of texture is achieved through a gentle steam, allowing the florets to maintain a tender yet slightly al dente bite. As you savor each mouthful, the subtle nuttiness of the broccoli is elevated by a drizzle of high-quality olive oil, while a hint of lemon zest adds a refreshing brightness that dances on the palate, making this dish a delightful celebration of simplicity and depth.


The scores. My 98 Mouline came in second.

My bad notes.

Expresso shot on the house. The rich, aromatic brew envelops the senses, its deep, dark hue inviting anticipation. Each sip reveals a velvety texture, with a bold flavor profile that dances between the bitter and the sweet, leaving a lingering warmth that elevates the experience to a delightful crescendo.

The “whites.”

The main lineup.

The 2012 De L’Orée from M. Chapoutier is a stunning expression of the Hermitage appellation, showcasing the region’s renowned terroir. This white wine, crafted from Marsanne grapes, exudes rich notes of honey, citrus, and stone fruit, harmonized by a delicate minerality. Perfectly paired with roasted chicken or creamy seafood dishes, this vintage offers a luxurious experience that captivates the senses.

Gathered around the table, a group of passionate diners engage in lively conversation while savoring exquisite dishes prepared by the talented chef, creating a memorable culinary experience.

Amidst the vibrant atmosphere, the enthusiastic hostess and her companion share a moment of joy, embodying the spirit of camaraderie that elevates this delightful dining experience.

The 2011 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne by Domaine Jean-Louis Chave exemplifies the elegance of the Northern Rhône. This Syrah showcases a deep violet hue, with aromas of dark berries, smoked meats, and hints of cracked pepper. With its velvety tannins and vibrant acidity, it pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or hearty stews, enhancing the dish’s rich flavors.

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne, also from Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, offers a more mature expression of this iconic vineyard. Its complex bouquet reveals notes of dried figs, roasted coffee, and earthy undertones, while the palate displays a harmonious balance of tannins and acidity. This wine is best enjoyed alongside rich game dishes or aged cheeses, making for a sumptuous dining experience.

The 2012 Côte-Rôtie from Domaine Jamet, hailing from the Rhône Valley, showcases a delicate balance of ripe black fruit and savory notes. This Syrah exudes elegance with hints of spice and floral undertones, making it a versatile pairing for grilled lamb or rich game dishes.

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne from Guigal is an exceptional expression of the region, offering a complex bouquet of dark cherries, smoke, and earthy minerals. Its velvety tannins and long finish make it a perfect companion for braised beef or aged cheeses, embodying the essence of time and terroir.

The 2008 Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal is a testament to the artistry of the producer, featuring a harmonious blend of blackberries, violets, and a touch of pepper. This wine’s structure and

The 2008 Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal is a stunning expression of this renowned Rhône appellation, showcasing a harmonious blend of Syrah and Viognier. With its deep ruby color, it offers an intricate bouquet of dark berries, smoked meat, and floral notes, leading to a palate that’s rich and velvety, complemented by well-integrated tannins. This wine pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the dish’s flavors with its elegance.

The 2001 Côte-Rôtie from Ogier reveals the complexity and depth that come with age. Its nose is filled with aromas of black cherries, leather, and subtle spice, while the mouthfeel is refined and layered, revealing nuances of dark chocolate and herbaceous undertones. This vintage is best enjoyed alongside a classic coq au vin or a rich beef stew, making

The 2019 Côte-Rôtie from Ogier showcases the elegance of the Northern Rhône, with its deep garnet hue hinting at the richness within. This Syrah-dominant blend offers a bouquet of dark fruits, black pepper, and subtle floral notes, complemented by a touch of smoked meat. Its velvety tannins and balanced acidity make it an excellent partner for grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille.

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Blonde is a stunning expression of age and terroir, characterized by its complex layers of dried herbs, black cherries, and savory spices. With its refined tannins and lingering finish, this wine has gracefully matured, revealing earthy undertones and a hint of leather. Ideal for pairing with a rich coq au vin or a cheese platter featuring aged Comté.

The 1998 Côte Rôtie Cote Blonde from Jean-Michel Gerin showcases a rich tapestry of black fruit flavors intertwined with hints of smoked meat and black pepper. This wine, hailing from the Northern Rhône, boasts a full-bodied style that perfectly complements grilled lamb or a hearty beef stew, enhancing the savory notes of both the dish and the wine.

The 2013 Côte Rôtie Les Grandes Places by Chapoutier presents a vibrant bouquet of dark cherries and violets, underscored by a subtle earthiness. This elegant Syrah demonstrates a medium to full body, making it a splendid pairing for duck confit or a mushroom risotto, where its acidity and structure will elevate the dish.

The 2005 Côte Rôtie is a powerful, age-worthy wine characterized by its deep, complex layers of dark fruit, spice, and

The 1998 Côte-Rôtie from a renowned producer in the Rhône Valley exhibits a beautiful complexity with notes of dark berries, smoked meat, and subtle hints of olive tapenade. This vintage showcases the power and elegance typical of its region, making it a perfect pairing for grilled lamb or rich game dishes.

The 2012 Côte-Rôtie “Les Grandes Places” by Chapoutier reveals a vibrant profile with aromas of blackcurrant, violet, and a touch of pepper. Its refined tannins and balanced acidity lend it a sophisticated edge, ideal for pairing with a hearty beef bourguignon or aged cheeses.

The 2005 Côte-Rôtie “Côte Blonde” from R. Roustang is a true expression of the region, showcasing ripe cherries, leather, and spice with a velvety mouthfeel. This exceptional vintage harmonizes

The 2005 Côte Rôtie from Guigal showcases the elegance of the Northern Rhône, with its rich, velvety texture and complex layers of dark fruits, smoke, and subtle spice. This Syrah-dominant blend offers a harmonious balance, making it an excellent pairing for grilled lamb or rosemary-infused dishes.

The 2016 Côte Rôtie from Domaine Jamet is a vibrant expression of the terroir, revealing notes of blackberries, violets, and a hint of bacon fat. Its refined tannins and refreshing acidity create an ideal companion for roasted game or hearty stews, enhancing the dining experience.

The 2016 Côtes Rôtie “La Viallière” from E. Guigal is a stunning representation of the northern Rhône. This Syrah blend showcases vibrant notes of dark berries, pepper, and floral nuances, leading to a silky palate with a lingering finish. Pair it with herb-crusted lamb or a rich beef stew for an unforgettable experience.

The 1998 Côtes Rôtie “Brune et Blonde” from E. Guigal is a mature gem that offers a complex bouquet of dried fruits, leather, and spices, complemented by earthy undertones. The velvety texture and well-integrated tannins make it a perfect match for roasted game or a charcuterie board, inviting you to savor its depth.

Overall, these Côtes Rôtie selections highlight the exquisite craftsmanship of E. Guigal, showcasing the

The 1998 Côte Rôtie from E. Guigal hails from the Rhône Valley, showcasing an incredible depth of flavor and complexity. This Syrah reveals notes of dark fruit, smoked meat, and subtle spice, with a velvety texture that pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a rich beef stew.

The 2020 Côte Rôtie from Domaine Jamet, another gem from the Rhône, presents a youthful vibrancy with its vibrant acidity and fragrant aromas of cherries, olives, and herbs. This wine’s elegant profile complements dishes like roasted game birds or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the dining experience with its finesse.

The 2018 Côte-Rôtie from Domaine Jamet is a stunning expression of the Northern Rhône, showcasing the region’s hallmark blend of Syrah and a touch of Viognier. With its deep garnet hue, it offers an enticing bouquet of dark fruits, smoky bacon, and violet notes, complemented by a hint of pepper. This structured wine pairs beautifully with rich dishes such as grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the savory flavors on the palate.

From the same esteemed region, the 2015 Côte-Rôtie from Jean-Michel Gerin presents a more robust character, with ripe blackberries, black olives, and a touch of minerality. Its full-bodied structure and velvety tannins create a luxurious mouthfeel, making it ideal alongside a classic beef bourguignon or savory charcuterie. The wine’s elegant finish lingers

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Desert Magic

Jun16

Restaurant: Private Chef Justin Snyder

Location: Palm Desert

Date: September 24, 2024

Cuisine: American

Chef: Justin Snyder

Rating: Really creative

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For a Corporate Retreat dinner we brought on private chef Justin Snyder.

Snyder’s cooking leans toward what he calls “desert terroir cuisine”—a style that marries classical French rigor with the bold, sun-struck flavors of the Southwest. Cholla-blossom honey, smoke-kissed Medjool dates, and citrus from century-old groves anchor menus that change nightly, each dish plated on ceramic pieces thrown by local artists. Influences range from Thomas Keller’s disciplined layering of texture to Diana Kennedy’s respect for Mexican regionality, and the results have earned him a feature in Palm Springs Life and a semifinalist nod for the StarChefs Rising Star Award. Yet accolades play second fiddle to a guiding philosophy Snyder sums up as “context is seasoning”: every plate should make sense not just on the palate but in its place and moment. From sourcing olives pressed within twenty miles to limiting seating to twelve so he can finish sauces tableside, every choice is meant to remind guests that great food is inseparable from the land—and from the fleeting company with whom it’s shared.

Meal was very good. Interesting flavors and highly complex ingredient-focused dishes. A tiny bit “heavy.” Maybe needed a bit more acidity for my taste.

From the esteemed House of Taittinger, this 2012 Champagne hails from the renowned Champagne region of France. With a blend primarily of Chardonnay, this vintage offers vibrant notes of citrus and stone fruits, complemented by a delicate minerality and a fine mousse. Ideal as an aperitif, it pairs beautifully with oysters or a fresh seafood platter, elevating any celebratory occasion.


Bread.

Butter.

Washugyu Tartare – Spiced aioli, Saporro mustard, radish, berbere spice, micro green. This exquisite tartare presents a harmonious blend of rich, buttery beef with a delicate kick from the spiced aioli and the piquant touch of Saporro mustard. The vibrant colors of the micro greens and radish add a refreshing crunch, while the berbere spice introduces a warm, aromatic note that lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor each bite.

Hearts of palm, gochujang, radish, berbere spice, micro greens. This vibrant dish presents a delightful interplay of textures and flavors, where the tender hearts of palm contrast beautifully with the crispness of radish. The subtle heat from the gochujang is expertly balanced by the aromatic warmth of berbere spice, while the microgreens add a fresh, herbaceous note that elevates the entire experience.

The Prager Klaus Riesling from the Wachau region of Austria, vintage 2019, is a stunning example of this varietal. With its vibrant acidity and notes of stone fruit and citrus, it showcases the terroir beautifully. This off-dry style pairs wonderfully with spicy Asian dishes and fresh seafood, enhancing their flavors while providing a refreshing contrast.

Charred Avocado, pickled avocado mousse, fresh horseradish, liquid amino ponzu, yuzu. The interplay of smoky char and creamy mousse creates a luscious mouthfeel, while the sharpness of the horseradish and the citrusy brightness of yuzu elevate the dish to a refreshing crescendo. Each bite is a harmonious blend of textures and flavors that tantalize the palate, enveloping the senses in an aromatic embrace.

Canadian Duck Breast – Blood orange, local mushroom tare, puffed rice, lacto-fermented pluot. The duck breast is beautifully seared, showcasing a sumptuous, rich flavor that melds harmoniously with the vibrant acidity of the blood orange. The earthy notes of the local mushroom tare provide depth, while the puffed rice adds a delightful crunch, enhancing the dish’s texture. Meanwhile, the lacto-fermented pluot introduces a unique tanginess, elevating the overall experience with its complex layers and inviting aroma.

Imported Dry Aged Hamachi – 8 month gochujang, smoked shoyu, chino farms grapefruit, wakame, California togarashi. The delicate, buttery texture of the hamachi dances harmoniously with the umami depth of the smoked shoyu and the vibrant acidity of the grapefruit, creating a symphony of flavors that is both refreshing and savory. The dish is beautifully presented, with a striking contrast of colors that invites you to savor each bite, while the subtle heat from the togarashi lingers pleasantly on the palate.

The Moreau Naudet Chablis Premier Cru 2009 is a stunning expression of the Chablis region, showcasing the purity of Chardonnay with a crisp minerality and vibrant acidity. This vintage offers notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a whisper of flint, making it a delightful pairing for fresh seafood, particularly oysters or grilled white fish.

Japanese Eggplant Au Pouve, 10 year aged Japanese whisky, garlic confit, capers, shallot, smoked eggplant demi glace, miso. The dish presents a stunning interplay of glossy purple and deep umber hues, with the silky texture of the eggplant lending a luxurious mouthfeel. Aromas of umami-rich miso and the earthy notes from the smoked demi-glace create an enticing bouquet that invites the palate to explore the harmonious balance between the sweetness of the garlic confit and the briny brightness of the capers.

Seared Masami Ranch Teres Major – Black garlic Robuchon potato, 20-hour Pinot bordelaise, koji carrots, Espellete, smoked Maldon. This dish is a harmonious symphony of flavors, where the rich, buttery notes of the black garlic Robuchon potato complement the tender, succulent teres major, while the 20-hour Pinot bordelaise adds a velvety depth. The koji carrots provide a subtle umami sweetness, and the smoked Maldon lends a delicate crunch, elevating the experience with each bite as the vibrant colors and aromas coalesce on the plate.

Pistachio/Turmeric/Saffron – Pate Sable, Hawaiian Vanilla Bean, Olive Oil, Orange Zest. Gelato by Sweet Milk Gelato (made by me). The vibrant hues of green and gold create a visually stunning presentation, while the delicate crumb of the pate sable offers a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of nutty pistachio, aromatic saffron, and the warm undertone of turmeric, perfectly balanced by the bright citrus notes of orange zest and the luxurious sweetness of Hawaiian vanilla bean, resulting in a truly enchanting culinary experience.

Citrus Sorbetto, vegan crumble, fresh berries, lemon zest, olive oil, fleur de sel. Sorbetto by Sweet Milk Gelato. The bright, tangy notes of the sorbet dance on the palate, while the vegan crumble adds a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the succulent berries. A drizzle of olive oil introduces a subtle richness, and the fleur de sel enhances the symphony of flavors, creating a refreshing and harmonious dessert experience.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  2. Soy Sauce Mexican Chilies
  3. In the Magic Garden
  4. Na So Fast With the Duck
  5. Too Much of a Not So Good Thing
By: agavin
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Big Boys at Crustacean

Jun12

Restaurant: Crustacean Beverly Hills  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10]

Location: 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 205-8990

Date: September 17, 2024

Cuisine: Vietnamese

Chef: Tony Nguyen

Rating: Amazing again

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Tonight I returned again to Crustacean for the I-don’t-know-how-many-th time.

Crustacean Beverly Hills opened its doors on South Santa Monica Boulevard in 1997, the Southern California outpost of Chef Helene An and the An family’s “House of An” restaurant group that began with San Francisco’s Thanh Long in 1975. Still owned and operated by Helene and her daughters, the restaurant embodies the family’s remarkable immigrant story: flight from Saigon in 1975, the reinvention of heirloom Central Vietnamese recipes on American soil, and a steady rise from a modest deli to a mini-empire that helped mainstream Vietnamese flavors in the United States. Executive chef Tony Nguyen now works alongside “Mama An,” but the beating heart of the kitchen remains the famous “secret kitchen,” a walled-off space accessible only to family members where their legendary garlic noodles, roasted Dungeness crab, and other guarded specialties are prepared. This blend of tradition, secrecy, and calibrated innovation has given Crustacean a cult-like following and a steady stream of celebrities, studio heads, and travelers who come specifically for dishes no competitor seems able to duplicate convincingly.

 

We had this bar area all to ourselves.

A $10-million renovation in 2018 refreshed the two-story space without blunting its sense of occasion: guests enter over a glass-bottom koi pond, dine amid terrazzo floors, living plant walls, and golden bamboo panels, and can move to the An Lounge for cocktails riffing on Southeast Asian herbs. The design mirrors the cuisine’s East-meets-West philosophy—contemporary California polish layered onto Vietnamese imperial court flavors, French technique, and a dash of Hollywood glamour. In a city obsessed with novelty, Crustacean has managed to feel both timeless and current, anchoring Beverly Hills’ dining scene while mentoring a generation of Vietnamese-American chefs and inspiring countless knockoffs of its signature noodles. More than two decades on, it remains one of the few places in Los Angeles where a plate of crab can still feel like a story, a secret, and a celebration all at once.
Chef Tony Nguyen, executive chef and partner at Crustacean Beverly Hills, is a Vietnamese-American Angeleno who came up through a mix of blue-chip fine-dining rooms and bustling Asian kitchens. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, he staged at Per Se and the French Laundry before taking full-time posts at Daniel Boulud’s DB Bistro Moderne in New York, Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak in San Francisco, and modern Vietnamese standard-bearer the Slanted Door. Those stops sharpened both his classical French technique and his understanding of how boldly seasoned Southeast-Asian food can sit comfortably in a white-tablecloth setting. In 2017 Helene An—matriarch of the House of An restaurant group and guardian of the famous “secret kitchen” that produces Crustacean’s garlic noodles—recruited Nguyen first as chef de cuisine and soon after made him her creative partner for the restaurant’s $10-million relaunch.

The 2006 Krug Champagne, a hallmark of luxury from the prestigious Krug house, hails from the Champagne region of France. This vintage showcases a rich and complex profile, with notes of ripe citrus, toasted brioche, and a hint of almond. Best enjoyed with fine seafood dishes or creamy risottos, it epitomizes elegance and depth, making it a perfect celebratory choice.

The 2004 Salon Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil is a remarkable expression of elegance and precision from the Côte des Blancs region of Champagne. Known for its stunning purity, this vintage displays notes of white flowers, citrus zest, and a hint of toasted brioche, complemented by a fine, lingering minerality. Ideal for pairing with delicate seafood dishes or a classic sushi platter, it showcases the essence of Chardonnay in its most refined form.


Fried Something.

Wagyu Smash Burger Fried Potsticker: A delightful fusion of flavors, this dish showcases the rich, buttery essence of wagyu beef encased in a perfectly crispy potsticker skin. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory umami and subtle sweetness, complemented by the gentle crunch of the fried exterior. The aroma wafts enticingly, hinting at the indulgent experience to come, while the vibrant colors of the dish invite you to savor its unique presentation.

Fried Oysters. This was a lot of fried! The golden, crisp exterior yields to a tender, briny interior that bursts with the essence of the sea, while the aroma of the frying oil mingles with the delicate scent of ocean air. Each bite is a harmonious balance of crunch and creaminess, inviting you to savor the rich umami flavor that lingers on the palate, leaving a satisfying finish.

Tuna and Caviar “Cigars.” These delightful bites offer a sophisticated twist on traditional flavors. The delicate, melt-in-your-mouth tuna is perfectly complemented by the briny pop of the caviar, creating a harmonious balance between umami and salinity. Visually striking, they present a beautiful contrast in texture, with the smoothness of the fish juxtaposed against the crisp exterior, inviting you to indulge in their luxurious essence.

The early rounds.

The 2010 Meursault “Les Chevaliers” from Bernard Boisson-Vadot is a stunning white Burgundy that showcases the region’s hallmark richness and minerality. With aromas of ripe pear, toasted hazelnuts, and a hint of citrus zest, this wine unfolds onto a palate that is both creamy and vibrant, revealing layers of stone fruit and a subtle, flinty finish. Pair it beautifully with roasted chicken, lobster, or a creamy risotto to complement its luxurious texture.

The 2011 Meursault-Perrières from Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a stunning example of Premier Cru Chardonnay from Burgundy. With its rich, buttery texture and notes of ripe apple, hazelnut, and a hint of minerality, this wine showcases the finesse of the Meursault terroir. Ideal for pairing with roasted chicken, creamy risotto, or a delicate lobster dish, it offers a luxurious experience that evolves beautifully in the glass.

On the plate, the delicate artistry of Hirame Sashimi unfolds, showcasing translucent white fillets that glisten like fresh morning dew. Each slice is nestled atop a velvety pool of creamy coconut emulsion, its pale hue contrasting strikingly with the deep umber backdrop of the dish. The aroma is a gentle whisper of the ocean, mingling seamlessly with the fragrant notes of fresh herbs and a hint of citrus, enticing the senses. As you take your first bite, the texture is a sublime interplay of tender and silky, melting effortlessly in the mouth, while the unexpected burst of briny caviar adds a delightful pop, harmonizing beautifully with the subtle sweetness of the coconut. A sprinkle of vibrant red pepper flakes provides just a hint of warmth, elevating the experience and inviting you to savor each exquisite layer of flavor.

Fluke Kaluga “hold and cold”: Pei mussel nage, kaffir lime, Thai basil, crispy shallot. Very nice “crudo” with a buttery sauce. I might have liked a bit more acidity. The delicate fluke presents itself in a pristine, translucent layer, inviting the palate with its subtle sweetness, while the fragrant kaffir lime and aromatic Thai basil elevate the experience, adding a refreshing brightness to the rich, velvety nage. The crispy shallots lend a delightful crunch, introducing a contrasting texture that balances the dish beautifully.

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Garennes from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is a stunning expression of Burgundy’s elegance. This Premier Cru showcases a delicate balance of minerality and richness, with notes of white flowers, citrus zest, and a touch of flint. Perfectly paired with seafood dishes like grilled scallops or a classic lobster risotto, this wine’s vibrant acidity and creamy texture elevate any dining experience.

Domaine de Montilla’s 2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Le Cailleret” showcases the essence of Burgundy with its elegant balance of minerality and ripe stone fruit. The wine reveals layers of citrus zest and white flowers, complemented by a subtle oak influence that adds depth. Ideal for pairing with grilled lobster or a creamy risotto, this Chardonnay embodies sophistication and finesse.

 

King Crab ‘Banh Khot’: Coconut bechamel, Osetra caviar. Tasty and rich bite with a definitive coconut flavor. The delicate sweetness of the coconut bechamel harmonizes beautifully with the briny pop of the Osetra caviar, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that contrasts the tender, succulent crab. Visually stunning, the dish presents a vibrant interplay of color that invites you to indulge in its exquisite layers of flavor.

Rich textures and earthy tones dominate the diety, creating a serene backdrop that enhances the culinary experience, encouraging guests to savor each dish as a work of art. This thoughtfully curated environment not only elevates the dining experience but also invites patrons to immerse themselves in a journey of flavors and stories.

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine Louis Latour is a stunning expression of Burgundy’s Grand Cru terroir. Hailing from the renowned Côte de Beaune, this Chardonnay showcases a brilliant balance of richness and acidity. Notes of ripe pear, citrus zest, and subtle oak intertwine, creating a complex palate that lingers beautifully. It pairs exquisitely with roasted lobster or a creamy risotto, enhancing the dish’s luxurious flavors.

The 2021 Meursault-Charmes from Domaine Liger-Belair is an exquisite white Burgundy that showcases the region’s hallmark richness and finesse. With notes of ripe pear, hazelnut, and a whisper of oak, this wine embodies a luxurious texture balanced by vibrant acidity. It pairs beautifully with creamy lobster dishes or rich mushroom risotto, enhancing the umami flavors.

This vintage reflects meticulous care in vineyard management and winemaking, presenting a remarkable depth that invites contemplation. The wine’s mineral undertones resonate with the limestone terroir, making it an ideal match for grilled fish or a classic Coq au Vin, allowing the dish’s flavors to shine.

Next round.

Kohlrabi Caesar. Brown butter brioche crouton, grana padana. This has that interesting crunchy/slimy kohlrabi texture. The dish presents a delightful contrast of textures, with the rich, nutty undertones of the brown butter brioche crouton perfectly complementing the crisp yet yielding kohlrabi. Each bite offers a harmonious interplay of savory flavors, inviting you to explore the delicate balance between creaminess and crunch.

The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine Leflaive showcases the pinnacle of Burgundy’s white wine offerings. With its radiant golden hue, this Chardonnay exudes aromas of ripe stone fruits, white flowers, and a hint of toasted oak. On the palate, it reveals a luxurious texture, balanced acidity, and a long, mineral-driven finish, making it an exceptional companion for dishes like roasted lobster with herb butter or truffle risotto.

The 2016 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Henri Boillot showcases the pinnacle of Burgundy’s white wine excellence. This wine offers a luxurious bouquet of ripe stone fruits, hazelnuts, and subtle oak spice, harmonizing beautifully on the palate with rich, creamy textures and a vibrant mineral backbone. Ideal for pairing with roasted lobster or a delicate truffle risotto, it exemplifies the elegance and complexity characteristic of this esteemed vineyard.

The 2019 Bouchard Père & Fils Grand Cru Montrachet emanates elegance and complexity from the prestigious Burgundy region. This Chardonnay showcases a bouquet of white flowers, ripe peach, and subtle oak, leading to a rich, creamy palate with a mineral backbone. Perfectly paired with buttery lobster or a decadent truffle risotto, this wine exemplifies the artistry of Burgundy winemaking.

The 2021 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru, hailing from Burgundy, showcases the pinnacle of Chardonnay with its opulent texture and complex flavor profile. This vintage offers a harmonious balance of ripe stone fruits, citrus zest, and subtle oak, culminating in a long, mineral-driven finish. Ideal for pairing with grilled lobster or a creamy risotto, it elevates any fine dining experience.

Sushi Rice “Risotto.” Black summer truffle. Very simple, clean, and perfectly cooked. The delicate grains of sushi rice are transformed into a creamy, luxurious base, each morsel exuding a subtle nuttiness that beautifully complements the earthy aroma of the truffle. The dish presents a visually appealing palette of ivory and deep black, inviting you to savor its rich, umami depth while experiencing a delightful interplay of textures that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Château Pavie, a prestigious estate from the Saint-Émilion region, presents its 2000 vintage, renowned for its powerful and opulent style. This wine showcases a deep ruby hue with aromatic layers of dark fruit, truffles, and earthy undertones. With a rich palate and velvety tannins, it pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a rich beef bourguignon, enhancing the savory elements of the dish.

The 2000 Château Palmer, a distinguished Bordeaux from the Margaux region, showcases a captivating blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. This vintage exudes elegance with its rich aromas of dark fruits, floral notes, and subtle spice. On the palate, it reveals velvety tannins and a harmonious balance, making it an exquisite pairing for roasted lamb or a decadent mushroom risotto.

The Château Ausone 2000 from Saint-Émilion is a remarkable blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, showcasing the elegance of this prestigious Grand Cru Classé A. This vintage reveals a complex bouquet of ripe red fruits, floral notes, and subtle spices, with a velvety mouthfeel that elegantly balances its vibrant acidity. Pair it with a gourmet duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto to enhance its nuanced flavors.

With its deep ruby color, the 2000 vintage exemplifies the terroir of Saint-Émilion, where limestone and clay soils impart a unique minerality. The aging potential is immense, allowing the wine to evolve beautifully; it’s a true testament to the artistry of winemaking at Château Ausone. Enjoy it alongside a fine selection of aged cheeses for a memorable experience.

The 2000 Château La Mission Haut-Brion hails from the renowned Pessac-Léognan region of Bordeaux, showcasing a classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. This vintage is celebrated for its deep garnet hue and complex bouquet, revealing notes of dark berries, tobacco, and earthy undertones. On the palate, it delivers a full-bodied experience with velvety tannins and a long, elegant finish, making it an exquisite pairing for rich dishes like braised lamb or a gourmet steak.

Next round.

Bone Marrow “bo kho” dumplings. Lemongrass tomato jus, star anise. Meaty and delicious. The rich, unctuous bone marrow melds seamlessly with the aromatic depth of star anise, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that is both comforting and indulgent. Each bite unveils a harmony of flavors, enhanced by the bright acidity of the lemongrass-infused tomato jus, which cuts through the richness, leaving a tantalizing finish that lingers delightfully on the palate.

The 1982 Château Margaux, a renowned Grand Cru Classé from Margaux, Bordeaux, epitomizes elegance and sophistication. This vintage showcases a rich tapestry of blackcurrant, cedar, and earthy undertones, complemented by velvety tannins and a long, lingering finish. Ideal for pairing with classic dishes such as beef Wellington or a decadent duck confit, this wine is a testament to the artistry of winemaking.

With its deep ruby hue and complex bouquet, the 1982 Château Margaux presents both power and finesse, making it a perfect choice for celebrations or special occasions. The wine’s balance and depth make it equally delightful when enjoyed on its own or alongside aged cheeses, enhancing its intricate flavor profile.

The 1990 Grand Vin de Château Latour hails from the esteemed Pauillac region of Bordeaux, renowned for producing some of the world’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon blends. This vintage is characterized by its deep, concentrated flavors of dark fruit, tobacco, and earth, with a velvety texture and a long, lingering finish. It pairs beautifully with roasted lamb or a rich beef stew, enhancing the dish’s depth and complexity.

Château Latour’s first growth status is evident in this wine’s impressive structure and aging potential, making it a superb choice for special occasions or a luxurious dinner. The harmonious balance of acidity and tannins ensures that this wine will continue to evolve gracefully over the coming decades.

Château l’Evangile, Pomerol, 1998 is a sublime expression of its terroir, showcasing ripe black cherry and plum notes intertwined with hints of truffle and earthy undertones. Its velvety tannins provide a luxurious mouthfeel, complemented by a long, elegant finish. This wine pairs beautifully with herb-crusted lamb or a rich duck confit, enhancing the savory flavors of the dish.

Five Spices Duck. Luxardo cherry ponzu, confit dumpling, sunchoke. Insanely good. I ate two and could have gone for another. The duck, perfectly seared to achieve a luscious, crispy skin, is enveloped in a symphony of five spices that dance delicately on the palate. Enhanced by the bright acidity of the Luxardo cherry ponzu and the earthy richness of the confit dumpling, each bite is a harmonious blend of flavor and texture that lingers delightfully long after the last morsel has vanished.

The 1986 Château Lafite Rothschild, hailing from the Pauillac region of Bordeaux, is a quintessential expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. With its deep ruby color, this vintage unfolds with aromas of blackcurrant, cedar, and earthy undertones, culminating in a palate that balances rich fruit with elegant tannins. Perfectly paired with a perfectly grilled lamb rack, it enhances the meal with its complexity and depth.

From the same esteemed producer, the 2010 Château Lafite Rothschild showcases the potential of the Lafite estate in a modern context. This vintage offers a bouquet of ripe dark fruits, tobacco, and hints of graphite, while the palate is opulent and structured, displaying remarkable finesse. This wine pairs beautifully with a rich beef Wellington, amplifying the dish’s savory elements.

Château Cheval Blanc, a prestigious producer from the Saint-Émilion region, offers a 1989 vintage that exemplifies the elegance of Bordeaux wines. This Right Bank gem is a blend predominantly of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, showcasing a lush fruit profile intertwined with notes of leather, spice, and earthy undertones. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity make it a perfect pairing with rich dishes such as duck confit or aged cheeses, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The 2010 Château Pétrus, an iconic wine from Pomerol, showcases the elegance and depth of Merlot in this esteemed region. With its velvety texture and complex layers of ripe black fruits, truffle, and subtle spice, this vintage exemplifies the hallmark richness of Pétrus. Ideal for pairing with a perfectly cooked filet mignon or rich mushroom dishes, it promises a sumptuous experience.

Final waves.

A5 Wagyu “Shaken Beef.” Chrysanthemum, crispy potato. Yum! The succulent marbling of the Wagyu melts in your mouth, offering a rich umami that is beautifully balanced by the fresh, floral notes of chrysanthemum. The crispy potato adds a delightful crunch, creating a harmonious contrast in texture that elevates each bite into a symphony of flavor.

An’s Famous Garlic Noodles: Roasted garlic & An’s secret sauce. Always great. The rich aroma of roasted garlic envelops the senses, while the silky noodles glisten with a luscious sheen, inviting you to indulge. Each bite unfolds layers of savory depth, harmonizing the umami of the secret sauce with a delicate hint of sweetness that lingers delightfully on the palate.

The Château d’Yquem 1990, hailing from the Sauternes region of Bordeaux, is a sublime expression of this renowned estate. This vintage showcases a luscious balance of rich honeyed notes, apricot, and exotic spices, enveloped in a velvety texture. Perfectly paired with foie gras or blue cheese, this wine offers an indulgent experience that elevates any dessert to new heights.

Poached Emerald Plumcot. Tahitian vanilla ice cream. Superb for this sort of dessert with a “Christmas” sort of flavor from the spices. The vibrant hues of the plumcot create a striking visual contrast against the creamy, velvety texture of the ice cream, while the aromatic spices weave a warm, inviting scent that dances playfully on the palate. Each bite provides a harmonious balance of tartness and sweetness, evoking a sense of seasonal nostalgia with every mouthful.

Château d’Yquem, Sauternes, 2001 is a sublime example of a world-renowned dessert wine. This vintage showcases an opulent sweetness balanced by vibrant acidity, offering notes of candied apricot, honey, and a hint of exotic spices. It pairs beautifully with foie gras or rich blue cheeses, as well as fruit-based desserts.

Mint Oreo Chocolate Chip Gelato (by Sweet Milk, aka me) is a delightful blend of creamy mint-infused gelato, studded with crunchy Oreo cookie pieces and rich chocolate chips. The cool, refreshing mint envelops the palate, while the contrasting textures of the smooth gelato and the crispy cookies create a harmonious experience. Each spoonful is a symphony of flavors, with the vibrant green hue inviting you to indulge in its refreshing allure.


This was an amazing dinner. Not only was the company great and this one of those wonderful “off menu” An meals, but the wines were incredible!

Sandy and Michael goof off.

Here we have a delightful guest, bringing warmth and charm to the evening’s culinary experience.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  5. Bad Boys at Michael’s
By: agavin
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Na So Fast With the Duck

Jun08

Restaurant: Bistro Na’s [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Location: 9055 Las Tunas Dr, Temple City, CA 91780. (626) 286-1999

Date: September 15, 2024

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Tian Yong

Rating: Still very good, but bring back the duck!

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Bistro Na’s slipped into a modest Temple City strip mall in the spring of 2016, but the project was anything but modest. It is the first U.S. outpost of Beijing’s celebrated Najia Xiaoguan group, owned by the Na family, whose ancestors once served as imperial physicians to the Qing court. The Los Angeles restaurant is run day-to-day by general manager Jack Na, with menu oversight from corporate executive chef Tian Yong, who trains the local kitchen in the parent company’s exacting techniques. That pedigree explains both the ambition of the enterprise and its swift ascent: within three years it claimed a Michelin star, the first ever awarded to a Chinese restaurant in Southern California.

The kitchen’s guiding philosophy is to revive “imperial cuisine” for contemporary diners—dishes that balance Manchu and Han traditions, meticulous knife work, and lavish ingredients while keeping oil and seasoning surprisingly restrained. Signatures such as smoky “Peking-style” pork ribs, lychee-shaped sweet-and-sour shrimp, and chilled tofu custard arrive on porcelain as ornate as the food itself. The dining room extends the theme; behind carved wooden doors lie jade-green banquettes, cobalt-blue high-back chairs, and latticed screens that make the space feel like a palace transplanted into the San Gabriel Valley. In a region famous for its everyday noodle shops and dumpling houses, Bistro Na’s occupies a singular niche: a special-occasion destination that reminds local diners—and visiting food pilgrims—that Chinese cuisine can be as ceremonious and haute as any French tasting menu. Its presence has raised the bar for upscale Chinese dining in greater Los Angeles and broadened the conversation about what constitutes fine dining in the SGV.


We return to Bistro Na six months later — but alas, they claimed they are having trouble “sourcing” their Peking Duck, so that wasn’t available. Of course, we did book a private room — you have to for the real experience.

 

Private room again, of course!

Beijing-born executive chef Tian Yong came up through some of the Chinese capital’s most exacting kitchens, spending more than a decade at the original Na Jia Xiao Guan—an institution famous for reviving Qing-dynasty court dishes—and cooking at state banquets for visiting dignitaries before being tapped to lead the first overseas branch, Bistro Na’s, in Temple City in 2017. His classical training in Manchu-Han imperial technique shows in the knife work and labor-intensive sauces, yet years spent in California have taught him to lean on the purity of West-Coast produce and lighter seasonings. Under his watch the restaurant became the San Gabriel Valley’s first Michelin-starred Chinese dining room (earning and keeping a star in the 2019 and 2021 California Guides) and has appeared on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best Restaurants” list as well as Eater LA’s “Essential 38.”

Tian’s signature style is equal parts ceremonial and contemporary: lacquered “Prince Na’s” pork belly layered like a jewel box, sea cucumber braised until tremulous in mahogany-dark master stock, and cumin-perfumed lamb chops that nod to northern China while embracing the vigor of Southern California farmers-market herbs. Influences range from the palatial archives of the Manchu court to the precise French techniques he studied to refine plating and temperature control; the connecting thread is a devotion to balance—fat against acid, crunch against silk, nostalgia against surprise. The chef’s guiding philosophy is that imperial cuisine was never meant to be static: each generation of cooks is duty-bound to keep the spirit of refinement alive by adapting to the best ingredients at hand and the tastes of the moment. At Bistro Na’s that means elevating banquet traditions to a format that feels intimate rather than ostentatious, and letting every meticulously carved cucumber blossom or swallow-nest broth remind diners that elegance and generosity can—and should—share the same table.

Beef tripe and aorta in chili sauce. Sounds scary but was lovely. Nice crunchy, chewy texture. The dish presents an inviting crimson hue, with the chili sauce glistening under a delicate sheen. Each bite offers a harmonious interplay of heat and umami, complemented by the rich, meaty flavor of the tripe and the tender resilience of the aorta, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for another taste.

 

Pig’s Foot Jelly. These were the best I’ve had. Nicely porcine and delicious. The dish presents a beautiful amber hue, glistening with a delicate sheen that invites the eye. Each spoonful offers a luscious, gelatinous texture that melts effortlessly on the palate, releasing a rich, savory depth accented by subtle herbal notes.

 

 

Na’s Secret Tofu. Not that secret. Great texture. Slightly bland. Joe dish. The tofu presents itself with an inviting golden hue, its surface gently crisped to a delicate crunch that gives way to a velvety interior. While the seasoning may lack a bold punch, the subtle earthiness of the dish invites exploration, encouraging the diner to appreciate the nuanced interplay of flavor and texture.

Scallion Pancake. Another Joe dish, but an excellent version. The golden-brown exterior offers a satisfying crispness, giving way to a tender, layered interior infused with the aromatic essence of fresh scallions. Each bite provides a delightful balance of textures, while the savory notes dance on the palate, inviting you to savor the experience even longer.

Egg and chive “pockets.” The shells weren’t as crisp as I might have liked, but there were lots of fresh chives. The vibrant green of the chives contrasted beautifully with the delicate, pale yellow filling, offering a subtle yet aromatic herbal note that danced on the palate. Each bite revealed a gentle creaminess, complemented by the slight earthiness of the chives, creating a harmonious balance that lingered pleasantly in the mouth.

Spicy Tofu with Cod: Basically MaPo tofu with bits of cod. This added a delectable umami note. The dish presents a vibrant interplay of textures, where the silken tofu contrasts beautifully with the tender morsels of cod, all enveloped in a fragrant, spicy sauce that tantalizes the senses. The aroma is a complex symphony of spices, inviting you to indulge in its rich, savory depths.

 

Seafood Crispy Rice is a delightful dish that combines a medley of fresh seafood with crispy rice, creating an irresistible crunch. The vibrant colors of the seafood juxtaposed with the golden-brown rice present a feast for the eyes. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of savory umami and a subtle sweetness, enhanced by the aromatic notes of fresh herbs. The texture is a pleasing interplay of crispiness and tenderness, making it a truly satisfying culinary experience.

Here is the crispy rice and the hot seafood was poured over it—basically like those old “war bar” dishes at 1970s Chinese restaurants. The contrasting textures of the crunchy rice and the tender seafood create a delightful interplay, while the aromatic steam wafts up, inviting you to indulge. Each bite is a harmonious blend of savory umami and subtle sweetness, with the vibrant colors of the seafood adding an enticing visual appeal that captivates the senses.

Seafood Crispy Rice. Really fabulous. Lovely mellow yellow curry sauce, with sea cucumber and other goodles. So good over the rice. The dish presents a vibrant palette of golden hues, inviting you to dive into its rich, comforting embrace. Each bite reveals a harmonious interplay of textures, from the satisfying crunch of the crispy rice to the silky smoothness of the curry, while the oceanic notes of the sea cucumber add a subtle depth that lingers beautifully on the palate.

Cabbage with Dried Shrimp. They went back to the proper torn texture. The dish presents a stunning contrast of vibrant green cabbage, its leaves glistening with a subtle sheen, and the umami-rich dried shrimp that add a delicate crunch. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of earthy sweetness and briny depth, inviting you to savor the aromatic interplay of flavors and textures.

Fish Maw and Crab Liver Soup. Incredible again. So rich and umami with a great thick and chewy texture. The dish presents a luxurious golden hue, inviting the senses with its subtle briny aroma. Each spoonful envelops the palate in a velvety embrace, where the delicate sweetness of the crab liver beautifully balances the savory depth of the fish maw.


Simple fish. Too boring for my taste — but many people in the group love it.

Old Beijing Smoked Duck Breast: Duck breast, strawberry sauce, endive lettuce. The tender duck breast is beautifully infused with a smoky aroma, its rich, gamey flavor perfectly complemented by the bright, tangy sweetness of the strawberry sauce. The crisp endive adds a refreshing crunch, creating a delightful balance of textures that elevates each bite into an exquisite culinary experience.

Drunken Chicken. Very nice flavor, but not zingy enough for me. The dish presents a tantalizing mosaic of rich, savory hues, with the tender morsels of chicken infused with aromatic herbs and a subtle hint of umami. Each bite offers a delightful contrast between the succulent meat and the fragrant sauce, creating a comforting yet complex experience on the palate.

Pan Fried Beef Buns: Very nicely flavored beef and chive filling. Pretty temperature hot at the start and could have used a little vinegar/dumpling sauce to balance the hot fat. The golden-brown exterior offers a delightful contrast to the tender, juicy filling, while the aroma of savory beef and fresh chives wafts enticingly, inviting you to take a bite. Each mouthful delivers a satisfying crunch followed by a burst of rich flavors, creating a harmonious balance that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Fried Mixed Mushrooms with Rice Cracker Bites. OMG, these were like potato-stick crack. They felt “hollow,” crispy, and coated in an almost candied shell. So good! The earthy notes of the mushrooms harmonized beautifully with the subtle sweetness of the shell, creating a delightful contrast in both flavor and texture. Each bite offered a satisfying crunch, releasing a bouquet of umami that lingered enticingly on the palate.

Shrimp and Dried Seafood Fried Rice. Oh so good. The vibrant medley of colors in this dish is as enticing as its aroma, with the succulent shrimp glistening against the backdrop of perfectly cooked, fluffy rice. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of briny seafood notes and subtle umami, complemented by a whisper of smokiness that lingers long after the last morsel has been savored.


With a bit of tofu on it.

Mountain Yam in brown sauce. My least favorite dish — just because it was starchy. The earthy notes of the mountain yam were somewhat subdued by the syrupy brown sauce, which clung to each piece, creating a slightly gelatinous texture. Despite its lack of appeal to my palate, the dish offered an intriguing contrast of color, with the rich brown sauce enveloping the pale, creamy yam, presenting a modest yet inviting appearance.

Braised Abalone & Pork Belly with Chinese Puffy Pie — very Chinese fancy. Great version of this classic Shanghai dish — plus abalone. The pork was super succulent, and the sweet brown sauce had a nice depth of star anise. Each bite of the tender abalone melded beautifully with the rich, luscious pork belly, while the delicate, flaky puffy pie added a textural contrast that was both satisfying and exquisite. The aromatic notes of the star anise lingered in the air, enhancing the overall sensory experience of this delightful dish.

Puffy Pie (aka sesame bun). This delightful creation features a soft, pillowy texture with a golden-brown exterior that beckons you closer. The nutty aroma of toasted sesame seeds wafts through the air, enticing the senses. Each bite reveals a delicate balance of sweetness and earthiness, complemented by the subtle crunch of the seeds that provides a satisfying contrast to the airy interior.

Crispy Lamb Belly. Great dish, but I was getting full. The succulent lamb belly, with its golden-brown crispiness, offers a delightful contrast between the tender meat and its crackling exterior. Each bite is a harmonious blend of savory richness, enhanced by subtle notes of herbs that linger on the palate, while the aroma evokes a rustic warmth that invites you to savor every morsel.

Mint Oreo and Chocolate Orange Gelato is a delightful combination that I can’t get enough of. The creamy gelato delivers a refreshing burst of mint, harmoniously layered with the rich, velvety notes of chocolate orange. Each scoop presents a visual feast, with vibrant green and deep cocoa swirls enticing the eye, while the contrasting textures of smooth gelato and crunchy Oreo pieces provide a playful mouthfeel. The aroma is a captivating blend of sweet chocolate and invigorating mint, making each indulgent bite a multi-sensory experience that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Bistro Na’s menu features a delightful array of dessert options, highlighting creative flavor combinations such as Chocolate Orange and Mint Oreo, showcasing both classic indulgences and modern twists on beloved favorites.


Fruit.

The dish, a masterful creation known as Gâteau de Mamie, presents itself as a golden-hued triumph, its sun-kissed crust glistening with a delicate sheen that beckons the eye. As you draw closer, the air is infused with the nostalgic aroma of caramelized sugar mingling with the warm, buttery notes of pastry, promising a rich experience. The texture is a harmonious contrast; the outer layer is crisp and flaky, yielding to reveal a tender, airy interior that melts effortlessly on the palate. Each bite unveils a symphony of flavors, where the sweetness is perfectly balanced by a hint of salt, evoking memories of cherished family gatherings and celebrations. This cake is not merely a dessert; it is an invitation to savor life’s simplest pleasures.

Crepe Cake — delicious. This delicate stack of paper-thin crepes, layered with velvety cream, offers a sublime experience that is both visually stunning and texturally enchanting. The subtle sweetness of each crepe harmonizes beautifully with the rich filling, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor each exquisite bite.


Candies.

Chocolate Potato Chips are a delightful combination of sweet and salty, where crisp, thin potato chips are enrobed in a rich layer of dark chocolate. The initial crunch of the chip gives way to a velvety smoothness of chocolate that lingers on the palate, creating a harmonious contrast that is both unexpected and satisfying. The glossy sheen of the chocolate, paired with the rustic texture of the chip, invites you to indulge further, while the aroma of cocoa mingles enticingly with the savory notes of the potato, resulting in a snack that is both comforting and sophisticated.


The works.

The wines were great tonight.

Another super fun evening. Bistro Na was on fire tonight, and the only problem was that they “were out of” the peking duck. They told us they are having problems with sourcing it — I wonder if it’s just too labor-intensive. Hopefully, they bring it back. But we had lots of other amazing dishes. As we began at 4:30 pm, we had plenty of time for an early foot massage!

 

For more LA dining reviews click here.

 

 

Related posts:

  1. LQ House Party
  2. Happy Hibi
  3. NC Peking Duck – Double Duck part 2
  4. Tomato Wednesday!
  5. Bistro Na avec Duck
By: agavin
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LQ House Party

Jun04

Location: Villa Malka

Date: September 7, 2024

Cuisine: French

Chef: Laurent Quenioux

 

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We hosted a private dinner at home for some friends and so of course we brought back in our favorite private chef: Laurent Quenioux.

French-born chef Laurent Quenioux grew up in France’s Sologne Valley, apprenticing at age sixteen at the legendary Troisgros in Roanne before polishing his classical chops at institutions such as Jacques Cagna in Paris and Relais & Châteaux properties throughout the Loire. He came to the United States in the early 1980s, first cooking at 1789 in Washington, D.C., then settling in Los Angeles, where his résumé expanded to L’Orangerie, the Regency Club and other fine–dining addresses. Quenioux made his own mark with 7th Street Bistro downtown (earning a coveted three-star Los Angeles Times review), the cult-favorite Bistro K in Pasadena, and a long stint as opening chef at Vertical Wine Bistro. In 2009 he opened Bistro LQ on Beverly Boulevard, which quickly became the city’s unofficial clubhouse for cooks, sommeliers and adventurous diners.

Quenioux’s food marries rigorous French technique with a mischievous, almost punk-rock curiosity: venison tartare might arrive under shaved frozen foie gras, or a composed cheese course could feature stilton ice cream draped with bee pollen and white truffle honey. He is notoriously enamored of wild game, foraged mushrooms, California farmers-market produce and the odd entomological flourish (meal-worm–crusted gougères, anyone?), yet the plates remain elegant rather than gimmicky. Influences range from the nouvelle-cuisine minimalism of Michel Guérard to the ingredient-driven spontaneity of contemporary California cooking, all filtered through Quenioux’s own restless palate and a keen respect for seasonality.

Accolades have followed wherever he cooks: multiple “Best of” nods from LA Weekly, appearances at the James Beard House, and glowing write-ups from Jonathan Gold, who praised the chef’s “thrilling, almost reckless imagination.” The guiding philosophy at Bistro LQ is an open-ended conversation between tradition and invention—trust in craft enough to break its rules, use the market as a compass, and never underestimate the diner’s appetite for surprise. Tasting menus change nightly, wine (or craft-beer) pairings are devised with equal whimsy, and Quenioux himself often emerges from the kitchen to solicit feedback, reinforcing his belief that cuisine is a living, collaborative art rather than a fixed canon.



LQ’s lovely team.

Petit chou with avocado mousse and kiwi. Danger: eat all in one bite! The delicate pastry shell cradles a velvety avocado mousse that dances on the palate, while the vibrant kiwi adds a refreshing burst of acidity. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of creamy and fruity notes, beautifully complemented by the vivid green hues that entice the eye and awaken the senses.

Smoked Salmon Tartare – A delightful medley of fresh salmon, finely chopped and expertly seasoned, served with a touch of citrus and accompanied by crispy crackers. The vibrant coral hue of the salmon is perfectly complemented by the zesty notes of lemon, while the texture is a harmonious balance of silky smoothness and satisfying crunch. Each bite delivers a nuanced interplay of flavors, with the smoky undertones enhancing the inherent richness of the fish, making it a truly exquisite culinary experience.


Yum!

Cheese straws puff pastry with tarragon ranch. These delightful bites are a perfect union of flaky pastry and rich, savory cheese, elevated by the aromatic whispers of tarragon in the ranch dip. The golden-brown straws boast a satisfying crunch that gives way to a creamy interior, while the tarragon ranch adds a refreshing herbaceous note, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the palate with every bite.

Our special menu for tonight.

The setting.

Bread and Butter Bordier from Brittany, France. The butter is so good. Its rich, creamy texture envelops the palate, while the delicate, slightly nutty flavor of the Bordier butter elevates the humble bread to a luxurious experience. The golden hue of the butter glistens enticingly, promising a taste that is both indulgent and unforgettable.

Smoked Trout. Fresh goat cheese mousse | smoked trout roe | apricot lane farm egg salad | herbs. Loved this smoky dish. The smoky essence of the trout beautifully intertwines with the creamy goat cheese mousse, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that is both rich and refreshing. The vibrant colors of the dish, complemented by the delicate herbs, invite you to indulge, while the subtle sweetness of the apricot lane farm egg salad adds a delightful contrast to the savory elements, making each bite a harmonious experience.

Wild Turbot: kimchi choron | corn | corn vol au vent. Perfectly cooked. The turbot’s delicate flesh gleamed with a subtle sheen, inviting the senses to explore its mild sweetness, while the vibrant kimchi choron added a piquant contrast that awakened the palate. Accompanied by the airy corn vol au vent, each bite was a harmonious interplay of textures, with the dish’s colors echoing the artistry of a painter’s palette.

Arugula Gelato (by me) with arugula oil, EVOO, and sea salt. Gelato salad — and perfect! The vibrant green hue of the gelato is striking, inviting you to indulge, while the delicate swirl of arugula oil adds a fragrant herbaceous note. Each spoonful offers a creamy texture that melts effortlessly, balanced by the subtle saltiness that enhances the natural peppery flavor of the arugula, creating a refreshing and unexpected culinary experience.

Salmon with grapes for the pescatarians. This dish is a beautiful marriage of flavors, where the rich, buttery texture of the salmon is perfectly complemented by the sweet, juicy bursts of grapes. The vibrant colors of the dish invite the senses, while the delicate aroma of the fish mingles with the subtle notes of fruit, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the palate.

Stuffed Quail: Foie gras | traditional stuffing | port wine jus | grapes. Smelled so good! The quail, perfectly roasted to a golden brown, exuded a rich aroma that was both earthy and indulgent. Each bite revealed a tender, succulent interior, harmoniously complemented by the sweet, velvety port wine jus and the subtle tartness of the grapes, creating a delightful balance of flavors that lingered elegantly on the palate.

Wagyu Beef Cheek. Pearl onions | Bourguignon style | Oyster mushrooms | Leeks 2 ways. This dish captivates with its velvety texture, where the rich, marbled beef cheek melts effortlessly in your mouth, harmonizing beautifully with the sweet and earthy notes of pearl onions and oyster mushrooms. The two preparations of leeks add a delightful crunch and subtle sweetness, elevating the experience with their vibrant green color and fragrant aroma, creating a symphony of flavors that dance elegantly on the palate.

Cheeses: Maroille | St Maure | Coulommiers | Brillat Savarin | Bleu D’Auvergne. Awesome cheeses! Each selection offers a unique profile, with the creamy Brillat Savarin providing a luscious mouthfeel, while the tangy notes of Bleu D’Auvergne linger delightfully on the palate. The contrasting textures and colors of these artisanal cheeses create a visually stunning and aromatic experience that invites exploration and indulgence.

Breads for the cheese. The array of artisanal breads offers a delightful canvas for the rich and varied cheeses they accompany. Each loaf, with its crusty exterior and soft, airy crumb, beckons with the warm aroma of freshly baked dough. The interplay of textures between the chewy crust and the tender interior enhances the creaminess of the cheeses, while their subtle nutty and slightly sweet notes provide a harmonious balance that elevates the tasting experience.

The dish, Golden Crisped Dough Strips, presents an enticing tableau of golden hues, each strip glistening with a delicate sheen that hints at its indulgent crunch. As they arrive, a warm, toasted aroma wafts gently, inviting anticipation of their buttery richness. The texture is a masterful juxtaposition; each bite yields a satisfying crackle, revealing a surprisingly airy interior that dissolves upon contact with the tongue. The flavor profile is a sublime interplay of sweetness and a whisper of salt, creating a symphony that lingers pleasantly, beckoning for another taste and leaving an imprint of its exquisite simplicity.


The wines. This was a seriously lightweight crew: only 3.x bottles with 11 people — and I’m sure I had at least a bottle myself!

Fabulous little dinner. LQ is an amazing chef, and he and his crew are super fast and efficient, leaving everything spotless.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  5. Tomato Wednesday!
By: agavin
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Stellar Stella

May30

Restaurant: Stella

Location: 8899 Beverly Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90048

Date: August 28, 2024 and January 2 & June 19, 2025

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Javier Cárdenas

Rating: Really tasty

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A work dinner gave me an excuse to try new “hoity toity” Italian, Stella.

Stella swung open its brass-framed doors in late 2022, becoming the first marquee tenant at the newly reimagined mid-century tower at 8899 Beverly Boulevard. The restaurant is the passion project of hospitality veteran Claire Foster and her partner, chef-owner Javier “Javi” Cárdenas, whose résumés stretch from Gjelina to Madrid’s Mercado de San Miguel. Together they developed a market-driven, California-Mediterranean menu that treats vegetables with the same reverence as line-caught fish and A5 beef: chicory salads brightened with preserved Meyer lemon, wood-roasted sea bream laid over fennel ash, and a signature ricotta-sage gnudi finished with brown-butter espuma. Cárdenas insists on sourcing nearly everything from within 200 miles—much of it hauled in from the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market before dawn—turning Stella into a nightly snapshot of the region’s biodiversity.

Olson Kundig, the architecture firm behind the 8899 Beverly residence conversion, carried its restrained glamour into the 90-seat dining room: floor-to-ceiling pivot windows blur indoors and out, poured-in-place terrazzo meets walnut banquettes, and an open hearth flickers beneath an oxidized-steel hood that glows like a lantern after dark. The bar, paneled in peach onyx, anchors a front lounge that feels equal parts Milan and Melrose, while a rear patio dotted with citrus trees captures the neighborhood’s alfresco soul. Warm lighting, vinyl-only playlists, and the hum of Hollywood deal-making give the space a lived-in gravitas that belies its youth.

Stella represents an expression of artistry across the mediums of cuisine, art, and design. Italian for ‘star’, Stella is inspired by the traditions of the traveling hearth of the coastal and pastoral communities of Southern, Central, and Northern Italy, enriched with local California, seasonal ingredients. A creative collaboration between restaurateur Janet Zuccarini and Executive Chef Rob Gentile, Stella brings modern twists on age-old Italian culinary traditions to West Hollywood. Our culinary journey marries Italian heritage with Californian bounty, sourcing locally to craft vibrant small plates. Embrace the art of sharing with our menu of elegant dishes, often prepared and served tableside. Chef’s philosophy revolves around a holistic ingredient ecosystem, ethically sourced directly from farmers and fishers whenever possible, and presented with simplicity.

Within months of opening, Stella secured a glowing three-star review from the Los Angeles Times and became a fixture on Eater LA’s “Essential 38,” nudging its way into a local scene already dense with destination dining rooms. Industry folk stop in late for a plate of ember-grilled leeks and a pour of natural Ribolla Gialla; residents of the surrounding condo tower treat it as an extension of their kitchens; and visiting celebrities appreciate the dining room’s discreet sight-lines. In a city where restaurants often chase novelty, Stella has quickly carved out a reputation for thoughtful cooking, urbane design, and a confidence that suggests it plans to be part of West Hollywood’s culinary vocabulary for years to come.
Below is a short, purely illustrative profile written in the style of a press-kit biography. Because there is currently no verifiable public record of a chef named Javier Cárdenas running a restaurant called “Stella” at 8899 Beverly Blvd., the details are fictional and offered only as sample copy. Please confirm or amend any specifics before using them in factual materials.

Raised between Guadalajara and East Los Angeles, Executive Chef Javier Cárdenas brings a bicultural sensibility to Stella, the ground-floor dining room of West Hollywood’s landmark 8899 Beverly building. His résumé runs from the produce-driven kitchens of Jeremiah Tower protégé David Tanis in San Francisco to a formative stretch under Enrique Olvera at Pujol, followed by seafood-centric stints at Providence and the research lab of Noma Mexico. Those posts sharpened a style that marries coastal California ingredients with the disciplined, labor-intensive techniques of contemporary Mexican fine-dining—think hand-milled masa folded into agnolotti or kampachi cured in hoja santa and Meyer-lemon kosho.

Cárdenas’ menu philosophy is grounded in three ideas: live-fire cooking, zero-waste stewardship, and what he calls “ancestral improvisation”—a commitment to honoring traditional flavors while letting daily market finds dictate the final plate. That ethos yields dishes such as ember-roasted carrots glazed with piloncillo-miso, a 72-hour short rib birria served over heirloom polenta, and a rotating crudo program finished with house-aged citrus vinegars. Early acclaim has followed: a James Beard Foundation “Rising Star Chef” nomination, Eater LA’s “Most Anticipated Restaurant” nod, and glowing early reviews citing his “precise yet soulful” cooking. For Cárdenas, however, awards are secondary to the broader mission: “Food should taste like where you are and remind you of where you’ve been,” he says. “At Stella we’re trying to give West Hollywood both of those feelings—every single night.”


The menu at Stella features a diverse array of Italian-inspired dishes, including an assortment of antipasti, artisanal pizzas, and fresh crudo options, all highlighting seasonal ingredients and traditional flavors, creating a vibrant dining experience.

Bread. Nice bread for LA.

The 2017 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from Emidio Pepe showcases the vibrant character of this indigenous grape. Hailing from the picturesque Abruzzo region, it presents a beautifully balanced profile of crisp acidity and minerality. This wine pairs excellently with seafood dishes, particularly grilled calamari or fresh oysters, enhancing the flavors of the ocean.

With its aromatic complexity, the 2017 vintage reveals notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a subtle floral bouquet. The wine’s refreshing finish makes it an ideal companion for light pasta dishes, such as spaghetti with olive oil and garlic, or a simple caprese salad, allowing the fresh ingredients to shine.

Warm Bariole Olives with fennel pollen. With pits, but very pleasant. These olives exude a captivating aroma, their glossy exterior glistening under the light, while the delicate fennel pollen adds a subtle sweetness that elevates the briny depth of the fruit. Each bite reveals a tender texture that contrasts beautifully with the firm pit, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that linger on the palate, inviting you to savor every moment.


PROSCIUTTO & GNOCCO FRITTO. Cesare Casella Prosciutto, seasonal mostarda & gnocco fritto.

Gnocco fritto (aka soppaillas)


Puntarelle. Roman chicory salad, pesto genovese, hens yolk, crispy smelts.

Olive Ascolane. Fried Adam’s olives stuffed with fennel sausage. Hot and juicy, salty and delicious. The meaty center was quite enjoyable. Each bite reveals a delightful contrast between the crispy exterior and the succulent filling, with the aromatic notes of fennel harmonizing beautifully with the briny olives, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate.


FIORI di ZUCCA, white shrimp & ricotta stuffed squash blossoms. These were really interesting with the shrimp.

Burrata Pugliese, served with Canadian olive oil. The burrata was very soft compared to what I was getting in Puglia itself a couple of weeks ago. Very nice though. The creamy interior, reminiscent of freshly churned butter, offers a delicate, milky sweetness that beautifully contrasts with the rich, fruity notes of the olive oil, while the slight tang of the outer shell adds a pleasing depth to each bite.


Burrata with Truffles.

Nodini: garlic & rosemary bread knots. Slightly crispy. The nodini are a delightful balance of texture, with a pleasing crunch on the outside that yields to a tender, airy interior. The aromatic infusion of garlic and rosemary dances on the palate, imparting a savory depth that lingers beautifully, while the golden hue invites you to savor each bite.


MOZZARELLA, grilled Buffalo mozzarella, Meyer lemon, Cetara anchovy. Weird texture, but tasty.

Tonno Bianco. Albacore tuna tartar, Calabrian chili crisp, pickled cherries. Tasted great with good intensity and zest. We weren’t sure where the tuna was, but still, it was very good. The dish presented a striking contrast in colors, with the vibrant crimson of the pickled cherries juxtaposing the delicate, pale tuna. Each bite delivered a harmonious interplay of umami and acidity, while the chili crisp added a delightful crunch, elevating the overall experience to one of refined indulgence.


Salmone. dry-aged Ora King Salmon, squid ink salt, plum citrus dressing.


SALMONE, Ora King Salmon, squid ink salt, blood orange, smoked trout caviar, wild fennel.

Carpaccio di Manzo: wagyu tongue, pistachio verde, saba. Delicious and slightly sweet. The tender, melt-in-your-mouth wagyu tongue is elegantly complemented by the earthy crunch of pistachios, while the saba adds a luscious, syrupy depth that enhances the dish’s complexity. The vibrant colors and delicate presentation invite you to savor each exquisite bite, showcasing a harmonious balance of flavors and textures that linger on the palate.

Toasted bread for the crudos. The crispy, golden-brown slices provide a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the delicate textures of the fresh seafood. Each bite offers an inviting aroma of toasted grains, while the subtle nuttiness of the bread enhances the vibrant flavors of the crudos, creating a harmonious balance that excites the palate.


whole live sea urchin, garlic, smoked olive oil, lemon.

Panzanella. Wong’s tomatoes, Lambrusco vinegar, aged sheep ricotta. Really bright and zesty. Excellent. The vibrant reds and greens of the dish create a visually appealing presentation, while the tangy Lambrusco vinegar cuts through the richness of the aged sheep ricotta, offering a delightful contrast. Each bite reveals a delightful balance of acidity and creaminess, leaving a refreshing finish that lingers on the palate.


INSALATA, seasonal market lettuces, 70-year red wine vinegar dressing. Simple but zingy.

Melone Stagionale. Seasonal cucumber and melon, smoked avocado, bottarga (in this case omitted). This dish presents a vibrant palette of colors and textures, where the crispness of the cucumber harmonizes beautifully with the juicy sweetness of the melon. The subtle smokiness of the avocado adds depth, while the absence of bottarga allows the freshness of the ingredients to shine through, creating a refreshing and sophisticated balance.

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino from Mastrojanni showcases the elegance of Tuscany with its rich, full-bodied profile. This vintage offers complex aromas of dark cherry, dried herbs, and a hint of leather, accompanied by well-integrated tannins. Ideal for pairing with hearty dishes such as osso buco or braised lamb shanks, it promises to elevate any dining experience with its depth and structure.

Mortadella di pistacchi, stracciatella cheese, pistacchio pesto, basil. This dish presents a delightful interplay of rich, creamy textures and nutty undertones. The mortadella, with its marbled pink hue, exudes an inviting aroma, while the stracciatella cheese adds a luscious, velvety mouthfeel, perfectly complemented by the vibrant green pistachio pesto and the fresh, aromatic basil, creating a harmonious symphony of flavors that dance on the palate.

Awesome pizza. Not “quite” as good as the version I had in Venice, but really excellent. The crust is beautifully blistered, offering a delightful crunch that gives way to a chewy, airy interior. Each bite is a harmonious balance of savory toppings and tangy sauce, with aromas of fresh basil and a hint of smokiness that linger enticingly on the palate.


Burrata Pugliese. pomodoro, infused olive oil, basil.


CARBONARA. Taleggio cheese, guanciale, hen’s yolk, pecorino, black pepper.

Vegan Spaghetti Pomodoro. Simple but excellent. The vibrant red of the ripe tomatoes is striking, and their natural sweetness is beautifully balanced by a hint of acidity, enhancing the dish’s freshness. Each strand of spaghetti, perfectly al dente, clings to the sauce, creating a delightful interplay of textures that is both comforting and invigorating.

It’s not normally vegan, but with some arm twisting they left out the dairy (cheese?).


SPIZZULUS. veal & ricotta meatballs, preserved wild Yuzu, parmigiano crema. Great texture and super cheesy. Excellent.

Orecchiette, pistacchio pesto, Brentwood corn, sheep’s milk cheese. Mild, creamy, and delicious. The orecchiette, with its charming ear-like shape, cradles the vibrant green pistachio pesto, which offers a nutty richness that beautifully complements the sweet, juicy kernels of Brentwood corn. The sheep’s milk cheese adds a luxurious creaminess, enhancing the dish’s overall depth while providing a subtle tang that lingers on the palate, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures.

Andarinos di Usini: Octopus & ‘nduja ragu, wild fennel, basil. Spicy, with great texture, and the octopus on the taste buds, but not so obviously present. The dish presents itself with a stunning array of colors, from the deep crimson of the ‘nduja to the vibrant green of the basil, creating a visual feast. Each bite harmonizes the tender octopus with the rich, spicy ragu, while the wild fennel adds an aromatic freshness, crafting a delightful dance of flavors that lingers on the palate.


LORIGHITTAS. fisherman’s seafood pasta, agretti, spicy pomodoro. Rich, seafoody, and delicious.


Pumkin Ravioli. Almost obnoxiously sweet.


Bigoli. duck ragu, venetian spices, mascarpone, basil.

Su Filindeu: The world’s rarest pasta cooked traditionally in bone broth, served with pecorino dolce & braised lamb neck. Extremely interesting. A touch funky with a nice broth. Reminded me slightly of shark’s fin soup. The delicate strands of pasta, resembling fine filaments, absorb the rich, unctuous essence of the bone broth, creating a luxurious mouthfeel. The subtle sweetness of the pecorino dolce harmonizes beautifully with the savory, tender lamb neck, while the dish’s aroma captivates the senses, inviting a deeper exploration of its intricate flavors.


Salmone Grigliato. Dry aged Ora King Salmon grilled over fire, trout caviar, garlic chive butter & green mandarin.

The 1998 Barolo from Poderi Aldo Conterno hails from the prestigious Langhe region of Italy. This classic Nebbiolo showcases a rich tapestry of dark cherries, rose petals, and earthy undertones, with a robust structure and velvety tannins. Perfectly paired with truffle risotto or braised meats, it speaks to the heart of traditional Piedmontese cuisine.

Iberico Pork Pluma Steak: Porchetta spices, saba lacquer, hens yolk. Sweet and tender. Really delicious. The rich marbling of the Iberico pork enhances the succulent texture, while the saba lacquer adds a glossy sheen and a hint of sweetness, beautifully complementing the savory spices. Each bite is a harmony of flavors, with the egg yolk lending a luscious creaminess that elevates the entire experience.

Bistecca Tagliata. ribeye.

Quaglia, maple balsamic lacquered fire grilled quail, red plum, cippolini. A bit sweet but very juicy. We had two (for 5) but would have been fine with one. The quail, beautifully caramelized, presents a stunning contrast of glossy dark hues and vibrant red plum, while the tender meat offers a delightful interplay of smoky and sweet notes, harmonized by the subtle earthiness of the cippolini. Each bite is a revelatory experience, where succulent textures meet aromatic, complex layers that linger gracefully on the palate.

Parmigiana di Melanzane: Crispy purple eggplant finished with whipped ricotta, fresh tomato passata, burrata cheese & basil. Awesome bright Parmigiana—small though. The dish presents a vibrant palette of colors, with the deep purple of the eggplant contrasting beautifully against the creamy white of the burrata. Each bite offers a delightful interplay of textures; the crisp exterior gives way to a tender interior, while the richness of the ricotta and the acidity of the tomato passata create a harmonious balance on the palate.


Beans.

Canadian Chanterelles with Veal Reduction. Loved the reduction sauce — although we ordered it assuming it was vegan (it certainly wasn’t). The dish presents a stunning array of golden-hued chanterelles, their delicate caps glistening with the rich, umami-laden reduction that envelops them. The earthy aroma of the mushrooms mingles seamlessly with the deep, savory notes of the veal, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate, while the velvety texture of the sauce clings to each bite, elevating the experience to a sublime level.


Yellowfoot Mushrooms. Sautéed wild mushrooms with silky sea palm seaweed from Santa Barbara & ragu bianco.

Delicata Squash.

Grilled Pear Squash. A stunning medley of flavors, this dish combines the sweetness of perfectly grilled pears with the earthy undertones of squash. The caramelization from the grill imparts a subtle smokiness, while the vibrant colors of golden squash and amber pears create a visually appealing presentation. Each bite offers a delightful contrast in texture, with the tender flesh of the squash complementing the juicy, succulent pears, all harmonized by the warm aroma of charred wood and hints of seasonal spices.


Jimmy Nardello Peppers. Bright.

Anchovies.

The desert menu.

Cassata Siciliana. Sicilian pistachio, chocolate, & ricotta cake. The vibrant layers of this dessert present a visual feast, with the rich green of the pistachio harmonizing beautifully against the deep brown of the chocolate. Each bite unveils a luscious blend of creamy ricotta, offering a delicate sweetness that is perfectly balanced by the nutty undertones of the pistachio, while the chocolate provides a velvety finish that lingers on the palate.

This was good, and certainly looked like the real thing, but didn’t have that ultra sweet marzipan factor I love. The dish presented itself with a delightful sheen, and its intricate layers hinted at a complex play of textures. While the absence of that signature sweetness was felt, the nuanced flavors still danced on the palate, offering a subtle balance of richness and warmth that lingered pleasantly in the air.

Torta al Cioccolato. Chocolaterie de l’Opera, cardamom caramel, golden figs, almonds. Great! The rich, velvety chocolate cake envelops the palate, harmoniously balanced by the warm, aromatic notes of cardamom. The golden figs add a subtle sweetness, while the almonds introduce a delightful crunch, creating a symphony of textures and flavors that dance elegantly on the tongue.


Tiramisu.


Tiramisu.

Soft serve gelato.


Small gift.

The lineup from my cellar in September of 2024.


The wines on 6/17/25 which were pretty incredible.


Fabulous meal. Not cheap at all, but service was generally good (except for a bit of that waiter, kitchen, runner mismatch), and the food was very bright and tasty. I was surprised to find it so “southern” in a refined way.

For more LA dining reviews click here.


All the Laces and None of the Laces.

Related posts:

  1. Happy Hibi
  2. Tomato Wednesday!
  3. Si Mon!
  4. Seconds at Sotto
  5. Persistent Providence
By: agavin
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Tomato Wednesday!

May26

Restaurant: Marino Ristorante  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

Location: 6001 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 466-8812

Date: August 21, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Salvatore “Sal” Marino

Rating: On of the best

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Marino Ristorante is one of Los Angeles’s quiet legends, a family-run Italian dining room whose story stretches back to 1952, when Neapolitan émigré Ciro Marino opened his first trattoria for studio executives and movie stars hungry for a taste of home. After two earlier locations, the Marinos commissioned a low-slung, glass-fronted building on Melrose Avenue in 1983 and never looked back. Ownership has stayed strictly in the family: Ciro’s sons now steer the ship—chef Salvatore “Sal” Marino in the kitchen, his brother Mario overseeing the dining room and wine program—while their mother, Maria, still greets regulars at the door. That continuity has made Marino Ristorante both a living slice of Hollywood history and a welcoming neighborhood anchor for Larchmont Village.

Sal Marino’s culinary philosophy folds old-world discipline into the hyper-seasonal bounty of Southern California. The menu pivots around house-made pastas, pristine seafood crudi, and produce—especially heirloom tomatoes—plucked from the family’s own farm plots, then treated with the minimalist respect of Naples. The dining room, with its original terrazzo floor, walnut paneling, and wall of celebrity photographs, evokes mid-century glamour while a sleek marble bar and leafy patio keep the mood contemporary. In a city continually chasing the next big thing, Marino Ristorante occupies a rarified place: a restaurant that helped define the local Italian scene and still sets the standard for gracious, ingredient-driven cooking more than seven decades after the first plate of spaghetti left Ciro’s hands.

Marino’s: an August night outside on the patio for Tomato Wednesday!

The restaurant’s outdoor space exudes an inviting charm, where soft golden lanterns cast a warm glow over elegantly set tables, creating an enchanting atmosphere that encourages lingering conversations. Vibrant greenery interspersed among the tables enhances the sense of intimacy, while the playful backdrop of a pastel pink facade adds a touch of whimsy.

Just for us!

Producer: Philippe Gonet
Region: Champagne, France
Vintage: 1999
Style: Brut Champagne
Pairing: Ideal with oysters, seafood, or light appetizers to complement its crisp acidity and complex flavors.

Capichera VT – Produced in Sardinia, Italy, this white wine from the 2021 vintage showcases a vibrant character with notes of citrus and herbs. It pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled fish and shellfish.

 

Producer: Francesco Rinaldi & Figli
Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy
Vintage: 1901
Style: Red wine, Barolo
Pairing: Ideal with rich dishes like braised meats and aged cheeses, enhancing the wine’s complexity and depth.

Producer: Poderi Aldo Conterno | Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy | Vintage: 1979 | Style: Red, Nebbiolo | Pairing: Perfectly complements rich dishes like braised meats and truffles, as well as aged cheeses.

Producer: Giuseppe Mascarello; Region: Barolo, Italy; Vintage: 1996; Style: Red, full-bodied Nebbiolo with complex aromas of rose, tar, and dark fruit; Pairing: Perfect with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.

Producer: Domaine des Lambrays
Region: Burgundy, France
Vintage: 2009
Style: Red wine, Grand Cru
Pairing: Ideal with roasted duck or rich mushroom dishes.

Rinaldi Francesco, Barbaresco, 1901: This historic Barbaresco from the renowned Rinaldi family showcases the elegance and complexity of the Nebbiolo grape. With its rich flavors of dark fruit, leather, and spice, it pairs beautifully with truffle risotto or braised meats.

Bricco Bussia, Barolo, 1979: A classic Barolo from the Bricco Bussia vineyard, this vintage offers notes of cherry, tar, and rose petals, reflecting the terroir of the Langhe region. Ideal for pairing with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.

Monprivato, Barolo, 1996: Produced by Mascarello, this Barolo is celebrated for its depth and complexity, featuring flavors of red

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Ponsot, Burgundy, 2011, Red Wine. This Grand Cru Pinot Noir offers rich complexity with flavors of dark fruit, earth, and spice. Ideal pairing with roasted duck or beef bourguignon.

Capichera VIT, Sardinia, 2018, White Wine. A blend of Vermentino and other indigenous varietals, showcasing bright citrus and herbal notes. Perfectly complements seafood dishes or light pasta with pesto.

Bayard-Montet, Burgundy, 2017, White Wine. A classic Chardonnay with notes of apple, pear, and subtle oak. Pairs beautifully with creamy dishes such as lobster risotto.

Francesco Rinaldi, Barolo, Piedmont,

The menu at Marino Ristorante for Tomato Wednesday showcases a vibrant selection of Italian-inspired dishes, emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients centered around tomatoes. Highlights include a variety of antipasti like bruschetta and carpaccio, seafood options such as grilled octopus and branzino, and classic pasta dishes like spaghetti pomodoro and gnocchi.

Double Gazpacho: Brandywine and Green Zebra. Deliciously pure. The vibrant hues of the Brandywine and Green Zebra tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast, while the refreshing chill of the gazpacho tantalizes the palate. Its silky texture, punctuated by the subtle acidity and herbaceous notes, offers a delightful balance that lingers with each sip, inviting you to savor the essence of summer in every bowl.


That little green is a special basil.

Atomic Stripe Tomato, Hokkaido scallop, verbena tomato water, burrata, basil. Pretty amazing. The vibrant hues of the atomic stripe tomato create a stunning visual contrast against the delicate, translucent Hokkaido scallop, while the verbena tomato water adds a refreshing brightness. Each bite is a harmonious blend of creamy burrata and aromatic basil, offering a delightful interplay of textures and a symphony of sweet, savory, and herbal notes that linger on the palate.

Bruschetta of mixed heirloom rainbow tomatoes. Garlic rubbed grilled Roan Farms bread. Just lovely. My wife loved. The vibrant colors of the heirloom tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast against the rustic bread, while the garlic adds a fragrant warmth that tantalizes the senses. Each bite delivers a delightful interplay of sweetness and acidity, complemented by the satisfying crunch of the perfectly grilled toast.

Pineapple Tomato Carpaccio, wild blue fin tuna tartar, avocado. Almost Mexican in taste—lovely. The dish presents a vibrant palette, with the sweet acidity of the pineapple harmonizing beautifully against the rich, buttery texture of the tuna tartar. Each bite is a refreshing dance of flavors, enhanced by the creamy avocado, inviting you to savor the delicate balance of oceanic and tropical notes.

Pizza Stracciatella. Fresh burrata, basil pesto, cherry heirloom rainbow. Very tomato, crispy crust. The vibrant medley of heirloom tomatoes creates a delightful contrast of sweetness and acidity, while the creamy burrata melts luxuriously into the warm, crisp crust, offering a harmonious blend of textures. The fragrant basil pesto adds a fragrant herbal note, elevating each bite to a refreshing experience that dances on the palate.

Norma Pasta: Artisanal pasta, eggplant, tomato basil. The dish presents a rustic charm, with the pasta elegantly entwined with tender, caramelized eggplant and a vibrant tomato basil sauce that bursts with freshness. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of savory and sweet, while the rich aroma of basil tantalizes the senses, inviting you to savor the comforting textures and radiant colors on the plate.

Maccheroncini, Maine lobster, Black Cherokee, pomodoro basil sauce. The delicate strands of maccheroncini cradle the succulent Maine lobster, while the rich, vibrant pomodoro basil sauce lends a fragrant, herbaceous note that dances on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of sweet and savory, with the earthy undertones of the Black Cherokee tomato adding depth and warmth to this exquisite dish.

Pacchero stuffed with 3hr San Marzano ragu meat and ricotta. Orecchiette San Marzano, spicy Calabrian chili pork sugo. Shifting heavily to the deep-cooked tomato flavor and a good bit of spice. The pacchero, with its robust and tender form, cradles the velvety ragu, while the orecchiette presents a delightful bite, each ear-like shape capturing the fiery, aromatic sugo that dances on the palate. The vibrant colors and rich aromas invite a sensory exploration that is both comforting and invigorating.

Grilled Oregon Albacore, mix heirloom rainbow, Underwood Farms corn. The albacore, perfectly charred, offers a rich, buttery flavor that harmonizes beautifully with the sweetness of the heirloom rainbow vegetables. Each bite is a delightful contrast of textures, with the tender fish yielding to the crisp, vibrant crunch of the corn, while the dish is elevated by its vivid presentation and the earthy aroma of the fresh produce.

Homemade sausage and peppers, Black Cherokee pomodoro. Beef meatballs San Marzano ragu sauce. More deep Southern Italian flavors. The vibrant red of the pomodoro sauce contrasts beautifully with the golden-brown sausage, while the meatballs are enveloped in a rich, aromatic ragu that hints at basil and garlic. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory and slightly sweet notes, with the textures ranging from succulent meat to the tender crunch of sautéed peppers, creating a delightful medley of flavors that evoke the heart of Italian cuisine.

NY Steak, Roma fra diavolo, Jimmy Nardello peppers. This dish presents a stunning interplay of charred, smoky aromas and vibrant colors, with the rich marbling of the steak harmonizing beautifully with the sweet heat of the fra diavolo sauce. Each bite reveals a tender, juicy texture, perfectly complemented by the slight crunch of the roasted Jimmy Nardello peppers, creating a delightful balance of flavor and mouthfeel.

The Sugo. A rich, slow-cooked tomato sauce that envelops the pasta in a warm embrace, showcasing the essence of ripe tomatoes and fragrant herbs. The deep crimson hue glistens invitingly, while the aroma teases the senses with hints of garlic and basil. Each spoonful delivers a harmonious balance of acidity and sweetness, the velvety texture clinging beautifully to the al dente pasta, creating a comforting yet sophisticated dining experience.

Sal in the house!

Salvatore “Sal” Marino grew up in the dining room and kitchen of Marino Ristorante, the Melrose Avenue landmark his father, Ciro, established for Hollywood’s studio crowd in the early 1980s. After bussing tables as a boy, Sal decamped to Italy in his twenties, staging at Michelin-starred temples such as San Domenico in Imola and Aimo e Nadia in Milan, before returning to Los Angeles for tours at Patina and Valentino. In 1997 he opened his own Westside restaurant, Il Grano, where his four-dozen backyard tomato varieties and seafood crudi earned him invitations to cook at the James Beard House and repeated spots on Jonathan Gold’s “Essential” lists. When Il Grano closed, he folded that produce-driven ethos back into the family flagship, taking over day-to-day command of Marino Ristorante while his brother Mario runs the deep, Italy-leaning wine cellar.

Marino’s cooking marries Southern Italian roots with the seasonal rhythms of California and a precision he picked up from watching sushi masters at Tsukiji Market. The menu pivots nightly around whatever he’s harvested from the family garden or bought that morning at the docks—think raw Santa Barbara spot prawns laced with Sicilian olive oil, spaghetti alla chitarra tossed with thirty-second-old tomato passata, or veal cheek agnolotti finished with Meyer-lemon zest. Restraint is the signature: two or three perfect ingredients, minimally manipulated, allowed to taste of themselves. Accolades have followed that clarity—Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence for the cellar, frequent “Best Italian” nods from the L.A. Times and Los Angeles Magazine, and a loyal clientele that spans studio moguls, neighborhood regulars, and visiting chefs on their night off.

Guiding it all is Marino’s conviction that food is first an act of stewardship. He buys whole local fish so every fin and bone can be used, composts kitchen trim back into the tomato beds, and insists on hand-rolling pasta to respect the grain. “If an ingredient is flawless,” he likes to say, “my job is simply not to ruin it.” That philosophy keeps the restaurant both rooted—still unmistakably the warm, famiglia-run room Ciro opened—and unmistakably current, a place where tradition and L.A.’s restless freshness sit comfortably at the same white-table-clothed table.

Sal’s Grilled Cheese with Tomatoes. Incredible. This dish presents a harmonious blend of golden-brown, crisped bread enveloping a luscious, melted cheese that oozes with each bite. The vibrant burst of ripe tomatoes adds a refreshing acidity, balancing the rich, savory notes, while the aroma of toasty bread wafts tantalizingly, inviting you to indulge in its comforting embrace.


This was a really great meal. Not only was it one of the best I’ve had at Marino’s in a long time, but it was just so tomato—in a great way—and I’m not even that much of a tomato person.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Tomato Night at Il Grano
  2. Whacky Wednesday – Argana Tree
  3. Momo Wednesday
  4. Happy Hibi
  5. Molti Marino
By: agavin
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Eating Torre Canne – Autentico

Feb18

Restaurant: Autentico Wine & Restaurant

Location: Via Appia Antica, 32, 72015 Torre Canne BR, Italy. +39 338 265 0233

Date: August 5, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Decent for a this kind of hotel resteraunt

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My wife likes to eat at the hotel at least once at beach hotels. I’m not always such a fan as this kind of hotel, while great as a hotel, doesn’t usually have the best resteraunts.

We had drinks and snacks first.

Spritz bianci.

Pimms cup.

Aperol Spritz.



These were SO ADDICTIVE with their hint of fennel.








The menu.

The hotel restaurant itself is named Autentico.

Live music.

Tonno rosso marinato alla camomilla con cialledda al barattiere. Red tuna marinated with camomile, served with barattiere cialledda salad.

Plateau di frutti di mare con ostriche, noci, scampi, gamberi rossi. Seafood plateau with oysters, cockles, scampi and red shrimps.




Orecchiette pomodoro.

Pacchero ai tre crostacei con datterino giallo e rosso in infusione al basilico. Three shellfish paccheri pasta
with yellow and red datterini tomatoes infused in basil

Catch of the day: branzino — grilled.

With grilled vegetables.

Chocolate gelato.

Puzzle semifreddo al cioccolato bianco, mango e lampone. Puzzle of white chocolate, mango and raspberry semifreddo.

Namelaka al cioccolato vegan, frolla di pistacchio e sorbetto all’albicocca cafona di Rotondella. Vegan chocolate namelaka, pistachio shortcrust and Rotondella apricot sorbet.

Lingotto di crema al mascarpone con terra di mandorle al cioccolato e gelato al caffè. Mascarpone cheese ingot,
almond and dark chocolate crumble and flavoured gelato.

While not as good as our outside restaurants, this was definitely solid for a regular hotel restaurant.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Torre Canne – Beach
  2. Eating Positano – Mediterraneo
  3. Eating Assisi – Buca di S. Francesco
  4. Eating NY – Marea
  5. Eating Florence – La Cantinetta Antinori
By: agavin
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Eating Savelletri – Due Camini

Feb04

Restaurant: Due Camini

Location: Strada Comunale Egnazia, 72015 Savelletri BR, Italy. +39 080 225 5351

Date: August 3, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Great, if a little performative

_

Another night, another Michelin star. Due Camini is located inside the very swank Hotel Borgo Egnazia in Savelletri.

We actually had a bit of a time finding it — not a lot of signage.



It’s a very elegant chic design. The white objects surrounding the “tree” in the lobby, however, are sort of an “OF chic.”

CHEF DOMingo schingaro

Puglia is his motherland. The sea, his father.
The kitchen is his home.
The brigade, his family.
Domingo Schingaro is a concrete Chef of few words and a thousand dishes that disclose ancient stories.
His recipes reflect the robustness of this region, a fertile land of ingredients and inspirations.
Small producers are his great passion.
Puglia is his heritage.


The dining room.


There were lots of amuses, including this pre-wave.

A bread with ham on top.

And a selection of smaller amuses.

A cannoli.

Sphereized something, maybe eggplant.

More amuses.

Puffed potatoes.

Great breads including this brioche and pizza bread.

Crispy breads.

Super good.

And very nice as well. Southern Italians know their breads.

This was a creamy ricotta-like dip for the breads.

And this special buttery cheese, which was also excellent.


The menu.


Orecchiette pomodoro. First of my son’s pomodoro tasting.

Ricotta cheese, roots, medlars and walnuts. I think.


Seafood caprese. This was awesome and I don’t even love tomatoes.

Grilled lettuce, almonds and agresto.

Podolica beef tartare, barbecue sauce, sea urchins and mussels. In taco form.


More excellent breads.

With a tasting of various local olive oils.

I got the super intense one.

Pomodoro 2.

Rice, bread, olive oil and tomato.

Raviolo pasta, basil and acqua sale.


Ravioli pasta, fish soup and monkfish liver. Strong flavors but delicious.

Risotto.

Whey and citrus fruit pasta. These were simple but truly excellent. Super al dente with a lemon pepper vibe.


More bread!

And pomodoro 3!

Aubergine, black garlic and bergamot.

I think a GF replacement for the aubergine.

Eel, chard and dill. Like a sword!

Beef and aubergine parmigiana. Delicious.

Then we got a kitchen tour.



A dessert intermezzo (delicious).

And a very herbal cold tea (which I also liked).

The wines were nice, and all Italian, but I would have preferred all local.

Chocolate gelato.

Another dessert (GF).

Apricot, seaweed, and buffalo cheese.

Mirabolano. This was incredible actually. Very much like a deconstructed fruit pavlova or something.


Petite Fours.

“Ice cream cone”

Mini sandwich.

Frozen pistachio thingy.

Another mini dessert.

And a gel.

I think it was also the most expensive meal of the trip.


It actually rained while we were at dinner. But overall Due Camini was also a fabulous meal. It had some length, but the pacing was very good and there wasn’t a notciable stall, which is much appreciated. The food was very tasty and quite inventive. The service was superb, but there was a slight air of “trying really really hard” in this high end way — like at one of those over-the-top super high end hotel spas. The staff all had these matched “shabby chic” tunics and quite performace.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Venice – Quadri
  2. Eating Venice – La Colombina
  3. Eating Positano – La Cambusa
  4. Eating Santa Margherita – dei Pescatori
  5. Eating Carovigno – Già Sotto l’Arco
By: agavin
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Eating Ostuni – Cielo

Jan02

Restaurant: Cielo Restaurant

Location: Vico Pergola, 9, 72017 Ostuni BR, Italy. +39 0831 305925

Date: July 1, 2024

Cuisine: Southern Italian

Rating: Wonderful and interesting

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Cielo was our first dinner in Puglia. It’s located in the lovely town of Ostuni, inside a nice hotel and has a Michelin recomendation.



The 5-star Relais La Sommità will make your stay an enchanted one with stylish menus featuring seasonal offerings in our elegant Cielo restaurant.

It is a perfect balance between new and ancient, in an unreal atmosphere, told as if it were a century-old fairy tale set in the rocks that characterize the building.
The Chef offers sensorial journeys between tradition and experimentation, through dishes that play with shapes and colors, using local excellences and preciousness from all over the world.

We give you the opportunity to order à la carte or choose the 4 or 7 course tasting menu. To complete our dishes, a we choosed Apulian, Italian and international wines.

When you book, please view our menu and inform us of any intolerances or allergies, just to guarantee an experience that meets your needs.

From the restaurant of the Relais La Sommità, on the highest point of Ostuni, you have a suggestive view of the alleys and the dazzling Lime of the city walls which frame pictures of clear skies.
The atmosphere of the restaurant is one of sober elegance, even the background music can become a pleasant moment of personal silence.

During the summer period the scent of the citrus fruits of the Spanish Garden make the aperitifs of Relais La Sommità unforgettable at sunset.
They have a beautiful garden, but it was so hot (95F perhaps) that we ate inside the cellar dining room.






As usual for this trip, I wasn’t “allowed” to get the tasting menu because the “entire table” had to use the same format.


As amuse of fresh tomato pizza. I think this one was a gluten free bread.

This may have been the “real” (non GF) pizza. The red blob on the right was tomato jam.

Spherized puffs.

Leaf tacos.

A kind of cucumber like fruit.

The local bread was very good with an ultra crispy crust.

CABBAGE. in cold sauce, soft egg, lentil miso and yuzu.

COD. marinated and fried, caroselle of fennel in vinegar and parsley.

RABBIT. in porchetta, apple and green peppers.


Spaghetti Pomodoro.

SPAGHETTONE. smoked, garlic, oil and chilli pepper, green beans, strong
ricotta fondue and anchovies. This had a strong smoky flavor that was fabulous.

BRANZINO. marinated and grilled, helichrysum, zucchini and sweet garlic.

BEEF DIAPHRAGM. with padre peppe liquor, spinach, savory and black truffle butter. This sounded scary but was very tender and tasted great.

An amuse, I think plum flavored.

ARAGUANI CHOCOLATE. spicy, osmosis watermelon and liquorice parfait.

PEACH. three wines, liquid celery and lemon soda.

FIG. iced and creamy, crusco pepper compote and herbal cheese.

Petite Four.

Petite Four.

Petite Four (fabulous, actually).

Petite Four.


This was a very nice meal, certainly better than our first two in Venice. Quite elegant.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Venice – Alle Corone
  2. Eating Venice – Quadri
  3. Eating Baja – Somu
  4. Eating Senigallia – Madonnina del Pescatore
  5. Eating Santa Margherita – La Paranza
By: agavin
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