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Archive for Wine

Feeling Crabby – World Seafood

Dec10

Restaurant: World Seafood Restaurant [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

Location: 1412 S Garfield Ave, Alhambra, CA 91801 | +1 (626) 282-3888

Date: October 26, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese Dim Sum and Seafood

Rating: Sunday Gang Seafood Feast!

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Sunday Chinese with the gang has become one of those reliable rituals—the kind of meal where the focus is less on chasing Michelin stars and more on enjoying good food, good wine, and good company. This time we landed at World Seafood Restaurant in Alhambra, a sprawling banquet-style spot on Garfield Avenue that’s been a fixture in the San Gabriel Valley’s Cantonese dining scene for years. With a name like World Seafood, you know exactly what you’re getting into: live tanks, lazy Susans, and the kind of seafood-forward Chinese cooking that defines the SGV experience.

We rolled in with a big crew—apparently there was a massive Halloween party happening in the main dining room, which added a festive backdrop to our Sunday feast. World Seafood is the kind of place where you come for quality ingredients cooked with straightforward Cantonese technique, and that’s exactly what we got.

The restaurant specializes in the kind of seafood-centric banquet cooking that Chinese restaurants do so well—live tanks stocked with crab, lobster, and geoduck, alongside classic Cantonese preparations of pork, chicken, and vegetables. It’s not fancy, but it doesn’t need to be. The focus is on freshness and proper execution.

We brought along a serious bottle to class things up: from my cellar, 2010 Morey-Blanc Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru—a stunning white Burgundy from one of the most prestigious vineyard sites in the Côte d’Or. This Chardonnay showed beautiful minerality, layered stone fruit, and that characteristic Grand Cru depth and complexity that makes great white Burgundy so compelling. It’s an interesting pairing with Chinese food, but the wine’s texture and acidity handled the rich seafood and sauces admirably.

Big gang at World Seafood, ready to tackle the feast while a huge Halloween party roared in the main room.

Cantonese Roast Suckling Pig—one of us insisted on it, and this was a solid version with that lacquered mahogany skin crackling into glassy shards, revealing milk-sweet meat beneath. That said, it’s a touch of an overrated dish in my book; the spectacle often exceeds the actual eating experience.

Then came the geoduck, prepared two ways.

Geoduck Sashimi—nice version, the clam sliced thin and translucent, showing that characteristic snap and sweet brininess.

Soy sauce for dipping.

Fried Geoduck Neck—the tougher portion given the crispy treatment, turning what could be rubbery into something crunchy and addictive.

The real star of the meal was the king crab, which was running as a super bargain that day.

King Crab Legs Steamed with Garlic—these were nice and VERY juicy, the garlic adding aromatic punch without overwhelming the sweet crab meat. At the price point, this was a steal.

Crab Body Ginger Scallion—tasty, but not as much meat as the legs. Still, the ginger-scallion preparation is classic Cantonese and always delivers on aromatics.

King Crab Fried Rice—because you can’t let all that precious crab go to waste. The kitchen studded the rice with generous chunks of crab, each grain glistening with wok hei.

Corn and Chicken Soup—soft and delicious, the kind of comfort-food soup that shows up at every good Cantonese banquet. Creamy, sweet from the corn, with tender shreds of chicken throughout.

Steamed Pork with Salty Egg—I like this dish, but it’s ugly. There’s no getting around the fact that steamed ground pork looks like what it is, but the combination of silky pork with the rich, crumbly salted egg yolk is deeply satisfying.

Tofu and Mushrooms—goopy but I really like the texture. The sauce clings to the silken tofu and earthy mushrooms in that particular way that only Cantonese sauces manage, creating this luxurious, slippery mouthfeel.

Fried Lo Mein with Beef—also a guilty pleasure. I love this dish when it’s good, and this one was. The noodles had that perfect char from the wok, the beef was tender, and everything came together with that addictive soy-based sauce and wok hei.

World Seafood delivered exactly what we came for: a solid Sunday Chinese feast with the gang, anchored by excellent seafood at bargain prices. The king crab was the clear winner—juicy, sweet, and prepared with classic Cantonese restraint that let the ingredient shine. The geoduck two-ways showed versatility, and while the suckling pig looked impressive, I still maintain it’s more showpiece than substance.

What I appreciate about places like World Seafood is their commitment to quality ingredients and straightforward technique. There’s no pretense here, no fusion flights of fancy—just fresh seafood from the tanks, classic Cantonese preparations, and the kind of banquet-style dining that’s meant to be shared with a big group. The corn soup, the tofu and mushrooms, the lo mein—these are comfort dishes done right, the kind of food that makes you understand why Sunday Chinese with friends has become a ritual worth repeating.

Is this revolutionary cuisine? No. But it doesn’t need to be. Sometimes the best meals are the ones where you’re passing dishes around the lazy Susan, arguing over the last piece of garlic king crab, and washing it all down with Grand Cru Burgundy (because why not?). For a Sunday afternoon in the SGV, surrounded by good people and good food, World Seafood hits the spot.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more Chinese Food reviews, click here.

Related posts:

  1. Tony Lau at World Seafood
  2. World Seafood is Elite
  3. World Seafood Again
  4. Dim Sum – World Seafood
  5. OG Monterey Park – Dean Sin World
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Cantonese cuisine, Chinese cuisine, SGV, Sunday Chinese, Wine

Hauling Oats

Dec08

Restaurant: Xibei

Location: 400 S Baldwin Ave, Arcadia, CA 91007 | 626-538-3000

Date: August 31 & Nov 16, 2025

Cuisine: Northwestern Chinese

Rating: Delicious

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Xibei in Arcadia is a really interesting addition to the SGV dining scene, focusing on the hearty, rustic flavors of Northwestern Chinese cuisine—a style you don’t see much in LA. This is the food of China’s northwest frontier regions: lamb-centric, spice-forward, and built around oat-based noodles and dumplings that have a uniquely chewy, nutty texture. It’s a far cry from the Cantonese and Sichuan places that dominate the area, offering a glimpse into a lesser-known regional cuisine that’s as robust and warming as the landscapes it comes from.

Behind a towering facade of weathered metal etched with swirling calligraphic reliefs and framed by celebratory flower stands, the bold red XIBEI portal opens to a foyer splashed with folk-art murals, casting a confident, festive energy.

A broad Northwestern Chinese menu that leans into hearty, rustic flavors—think lamb and beef specialties alongside poultry and pork, supported by regional street snacks, chewy noodles, and vegetable-led plates. The lineup rounds out with warming soups, homestyle stews, and a few classic desserts.

The space itself is modern and comfortable, with an energy that matches the bold flavors on the menu. This location used to house MDP, the Arcadia spot that went for a certain 2020 Chinese “fancy” aesthetic. Now they’ve kept much of that bones but added colorful lights, signs, and folk-art touches that give it a more regional, lived-in feel.

This space used to be the Arcadia MDP. It was kind of 2020 Chinese “fancy” then and now they’ve just stuck a bunch of colorful lights and signs on top.

Our private room. What’s up with the 1975 NY Italian tablecloth?


On a second night we had this large private room. We’ve eaten in this excellent two chamber zone before back when this was MDP.

And this cute wall panel.

The menu.

Sichuan pepper chicken in chili sauce. Chicken, chicken soup, sesame oil, scallions, millet pepper. HOT and delicious.

Xibei’s signature chilled wheat noodles with house-special dressing. Flour, cucumber, preserved veggies, cilantro, celery. Cool and delicious. The noodles are springy and cold, with a nutty wheat bite, crunchy cucumber and celery, and a tangy-savory dressing lifted by cilantro and preserved veggies.


Sweet riblets.

Oat Yuyu. House-made, noodle-shaped oat noodles served with lamb soup. Very interesting chewy texture. The broth leans savory and lightly gamey, and the rustic oat ribbons look hearty in the bowl.

Yarom and the manager.

Lamb knuckle tips. Bony, but pretty tasty. The meat clings to the bone with sticky, collagen-rich tenderness and a deep, lamby savor.

Cucumber salad. Cucumber and chili pepper. Crisp, refreshing, and crunchy, with cool sweetness from the cucumber and a gentle, lingering heat from the chili.

Diced avocado with roasted chili peppers. Avocado, green pepper, garlic, scallions. Unusual but pretty awesome. We ordered two or three. The avocado is creamy and cool against the smoky roasted chili peppers, with garlic and scallions adding a bright, savory snap.

Xibei-style shumai. Lamb, egg, and scallions. Light and fluffy. The lamb and egg bring a gentle, savory richness, while the scallions add a fresh lift.


Dumpling sauces.

Oat Luoluo. Special “oat” dumplings. I think we got shrimp. Soft and lightly chewy with a gentle oat nuttiness, they eat clean and comforting, with the shrimp adding a sweet, briny pop.

Dumpling sauces.

Spiced lamb spine stew. Lamb, mixture of Chinese spices. Good flavor—lots of bone. The broth is aromatic and warming, with marrow-rich depth and tender meat clinging to the vertebrae.

Zoom.

Oat “Wowo”. Honeycomb-shaped oat noodles with sweet-and-sour sauce. These were like pasta with ragu. Very interesting, but not actually that great. The noodles are chewy and dense, and the sauce skews more tangy than rich, making it intriguing more than craveable.


Wasabi shrimp. Tangy!

Their Peking duck was actually pretty excellent. The skin was crisp and lacquered while the meat stayed juicy, with a gently sweet-savory glaze that keeps you reaching back for another slice.


Second time we had the peking duck they carved tableside.


And packaged the “burrito”.

Condiments.

The spring pancakes were actually made with “oat” (not regular oats, but a traditional Chinese grain). They had a nutty, slightly earthy flavor and a pleasantly chewy bite.

Duck bones with cumin.

Sizzling cumin beef. Beef, onion, chili, cumin — because we’d had a lot of lamb elsewhere. Smoky, toasty cumin and chili heat perfume tender slices of beef, with sweet onion bite and that satisfying tableside sizzle.

Lamb shank. A mixture of Chinese spices. Meat! Tender and rich, it’s aromatic and warming, with deep savory notes and a hint of sweetness.


Shortrib!

Pork belly.

Fried chicken with peppers and fries.

Mushrooms.

Weirdness.

 

Lamb belly!



Lettuce wraps for the lamb.

Condiments for the lamb.

Spices.

Pork and green peppers.

String beans.

Overall, very nice dinner with some interesting and new dishes. Never had avocado like that—the combination with roasted chili peppers was a revelation. Xibei mixes the very “oat flour” heavy cuisine of the Northwest with some classics like Peking Duck. Yeah, PD is from the Northwest too, but it’s from a more elevated subset of Chinese cuisine (probably being more or less a city or palace food) while a lot of Xibei’s offerings feel more rustic. Not that I mind—I love variety in Chinese food, and it’s great to see regional cuisines getting their due in LA.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more Chinese Food reviews, click here.

Deutz, Champagne (France) – Rosé 2012: A refined vintage rosé Champagne with pinpoint mousse and chalky minerality, showing wild strawberry, pomegranate and blood orange layered with rose petal, biscuit and gentle spice; taut yet creamy, brisk acidity and a long saline finish. Ideal with tuna or salmon crudo, roast duck or squab, charcuterie, and lightly spiced Asian dishes.

Domaine Michel Gaunoux, Pommard 1er Cru “Les Rugiens Bas” 2001 (Burgundy, France) — A beautifully mature, savory Pinot Noir with dried cherry, cranberry, rose, sous-bois and truffle over iron-tinged minerality; fine, resolved tannins and brisk acidity drive a long, earthy finish. Spot-on with roast duck or squab, mushroom risotto, or herb-crusted lamb; also excellent with aged Comté.

Related posts:

  1. Sichuan Impression Reboot
  2. A Different Duck House
  3. Spicy Hunan Home
  4. Arcadian Pastures
  5. NC Peking Duck – Double Duck part 2
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Arcadia, hedonists, oat flour, Peking Duck, SGV, Wine, Xibei

Family Night – Chelsea

Dec06

Restaurant: Chelsea [1, 2]

Location: 2460 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90403 | (424) 238-5102

Date: October 22, 2025

Cuisine: New American with Global Flavors

Rating: Family Night Foodie Club Excellence!

_

It’s always a joy when the Foodie Club can get the extended family together, and this time we managed to wrangle Joe, Bonnie, Howard, and Ploy for a family night at Chelsea in Santa Monica. Located on Wilshire Boulevard, Chelsea has been making waves with its globally-inflected New American cuisine—the kind of place that offers both the comfort of familiar preparations and the excitement of unexpected flavor combinations. With a menu that spans oysters to lamb chops, handmade pasta to steak frites, it seemed like the perfect spot for our diverse crew.

The restaurant itself strikes a nice balance between upscale and approachable. There’s a warmth to the space that invites conversation and laughter—exactly what you want for a family gathering. Chef Behdad Eghbali has crafted a menu that’s ambitious in scope but grounded in solid technique, drawing on his Persian background and international training to create dishes that feel both refined and accessible.

The menu offers a modern American progression, opening with a raw bar before moving through shareable starters, handmade pastas, and globally influenced entrées.

We dove in with an impressive array of starters and small plates.

Oysters with lemon ginger mignonette—a bright, clean start to the meal.

Escargot Stuffed Mushrooms with pecorino polenta—a rich, earthy combination that showcases the kitchen’s comfort with French technique.

Albacore Ceviche with corn, coconut milk, chilis, mango, and chips. Strong flavors here—the coconut milk adds a creamy richness to the citrus-cured fish, while the mango and chilis provide tropical heat and sweetness.

House-Made Ripple-Cut Potato Chips—corrugated fans of golden potato with that satisfying dry crunch and perfectly judged seasoning. These arrived alongside the ceviche and proved dangerously addictive.

Crispy Lobster Sliders with arugula, truffle aioli, and Hawaiian rolls. Delicious! These were a table favorite—the lobster perfectly fried with a delicate crunch, the truffle aioli adding luxurious umami, all nestled in those soft, slightly sweet rolls.

Burrata with heirloom tomato, plum, pistachio, lemon olive oil, and polenta croutons—a beautiful summer-into-fall composition with the stone fruit adding an unexpected sweetness.

Harissa Lamb Tartare with rustic bread, mint aioli, and crispy capers. I liked this—spiced with North African heat but balanced by cooling mint, the raw lamb silky and clean. For some reason I was the only one eating it, which meant more for me.

Then came the pastas, and this is where Chelsea really shines.

Boar Ragu with tagliatelle, crisp rosemary, and pecorino—a hearty, gamey sauce clinging to perfectly cooked ribbons of pasta, the rosemary adding aromatic punch.

Lobster Linguini with squid ink linguini, half a lobster tail, leeks, peas, scallions, and lobster sauce—dramatic black pasta showcasing generous chunks of sweet lobster in a rich, oceanic sauce.

Sweet Corn & Ricotta Ravioli with Thai green curry. These were awesome! Now I really like curry, and this was a lovely mild one but it added a creamy goodness to the sweet corn filling. The marriage of Italian technique with Thai flavors shouldn’t work this well, but it absolutely does—one of my dishes of the night.

For mains, we split between surf and turf.

Pistachio Crusted Lamb Chops with whipped eggplant and roasted heirloom carrots—the pistachio crust adding both texture and nutty sweetness to perfectly cooked lamb.

Steak Frites—a 16 oz. prime bone-in New York with cognac peppercorn sauce and shoestring fries. Classic French bistro execution on a generous American-sized cut.

Pommes Frites arriving golden and crisp, each slim baton shattering with that perfect contrast between crunchy exterior and fluffy interior, properly salted and begging to be dragged through ketchup.

We finished with classic desserts.

Key Lime Pie—tart, creamy, with that essential graham cracker crust.

Apple Turnover—flaky pastry wrapped around spiced apple filling, served warm.

We brought some serious Burgundy firepower to the meal. From my cellar: 2009 Henri Boillot Meursault Perrières (Premier Cru) and 2021 Coche-Dury Bourgogne Chardonnay—the Coche-Dury proving that even at the regional level, this producer can do no wrong, with layered stone fruit and that signature mineral backbone. We also enjoyed Billecart-Salmon Champagne to start, Louis Jadot Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru for the reds, and 2009 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande from Pauillac—a Second Growth Bordeaux showing beautiful elegance and structure even at this relatively young age.

Chelsea delivered exactly what we needed for a family Foodie Club night: a menu broad enough to satisfy diverse tastes, execution solid across the board, and an atmosphere conducive to the kind of lingering conversation that makes these gatherings special. The standouts for me were those curry ravioli—unexpected and brilliant—and the crispy lobster sliders, which disappeared far too quickly. The handmade pastas show real skill, and the kitchen’s willingness to play with global flavors (Thai curry, harissa, miso) while maintaining classical technique keeps things interesting.

Is this groundbreaking cuisine? No. But it doesn’t need to be. Chelsea succeeds by doing a lot of things well, offering quality ingredients, thoughtful preparation, and enough variety to keep a table of opinionated food lovers happy. For a family dinner in Santa Monica, you could do a lot worse. And when you’re gathered with good people, good wine, and food that delivers on its promises, that’s really all you need.

For more LA Foodie Club dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Charming Chelsea
  2. Family Spago
  3. Westside Family Style
  4. Spago – Friday Night Lights
  5. Bistro 1968 at Night
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Chelsea, Family Night, Foodie Club, Santa Monica, Wine

Bouchard Seline

Dec01

Restaurant: Seline

Location: Santa Monica, CA

Date: October 12, 2025

Cuisine: Mediterranean / French

Rating: Burgundy Bliss & Butter Mastery!

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Some dinners are about innovation, pushing boundaries, deconstructing classics into their molecular components. And then there are dinners like this—a special Sage Society event at Seline, devoted entirely to the wines of Bouchard Père & Fils and the kind of classic French cooking that makes no apologies for its richness. This was butter-forward, sauce-driven French cuisine at its most unapologetic, paired with a vertical exploration of one of Burgundy’s most historic houses. No modernist foams, no tweezers, no apologies. Just pitch-perfect technique, luxurious ingredients, and wines that have been waiting decades for exactly this moment.

The Sage Society knows how to throw a wine dinner, and pairing Seline’s kitchen with Bouchard’s cellar was a stroke of genius. Seline, tucked away in Santa Monica, normally leans Mediterranean with modern flourishes, but for this evening they went full Burgundian—think beurre blanc, beurre monté, duck jus, red wine reductions, and enough cultured butter to make your cardiologist weep. The chef (whose work I’ve enjoyed before) clearly understands classical French technique, and when given the excuse to go all-in on traditional preparations, the results were stunning.

 

Bouchard Père & Fils needs little introduction to anyone who drinks Burgundy seriously. Founded in 1731, the house is one of the oldest in the region, with holdings that read like a greatest hits of Burgundy terroir: Corton-Charlemagne, Clos Vougeot, Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus, Chambertin. Tonight’s lineup spanned vintages from 1992 to 2020, showcasing both the house’s range and Burgundy’s ability to age with grace.

This was a special Sage Society Bouchard dinner—our menu for the night, showcasing classic French technique married to Burgundian wines.

In a soft amber hush, polished wood gleams beneath elegant script place cards and a constellation of fine-stemmed glasses, setting the stage for a meticulously paced meal.

The evening began with a scallop course that set the tone for everything to follow.

Scallop Quenelle with beurre blanc and caviar. Super delicious and a perfect white Burgundy pairing. I love the soft, almost ethereal texture—the quenelle melts on the tongue like an aerated cloud of scallop and cream. The beurre blanc is pitch perfect: enough acidity to cut the richness, enough butter to coat your palate in silk. The caviar adds precise saline pops that wake everything up.

Then came the fish course, paired with white Burgundies that showed both youth and maturity.

 

 

Salmon with chicken beurre monté. Very tender salmon—cooked just to that point where it’s still translucent at the center—and a REALLY RICH butter sauce. Delicious. The beurre monté is almost sinful in its concentration, clinging to the salmon like liquid gold. This is not health food, but paired with a great white Burg, it’s transcendent.

We opened Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault Genevrières 2020 and Meursault Perrières 2020, both Premier Crus showing Meursault’s signature richness and minerality. The Genevrières displayed generous stone fruit and hazelnut notes with bright acidity, while the Perrières leaned more mineral and tense—perfect foils for all that butter. Then came Bouchard Corton-Charlemagne 2000, a Grand Cru white showing how beautifully these wines age: honeyed, complex, with notes of roasted nuts and a steely backbone that kept it fresh despite two decades in bottle.

The meat courses began with pork, and this is where the evening’s theme—sauce, sauce, and more sauce—really hit its stride.

Pork Loin with pork jus. It was all about the sauce—again. The loin itself was tender and properly cooked, but the jus is what elevated it: deeply porky, concentrated, glossy with fat and gelatin. You could taste the hours of reduction in every spoonful.

Duck Breast with duck jus. More amazing high-fat sauce! The duck was cooked to perfect medium-rare, the skin crisped and rendered. But that jus—dark, unctuous, tasting of roasted duck bones and red wine—was pure sauce mastery. Neat rose-pink slices fanned across the plate, amber skin catching the light, while the velvety sauce pooled beneath.

Hanger Steak with red wine jus and potato pavé. Oh and more sauce. They really know sauces here. The steak was perfectly charred and juicy, the pavé crisp-edged and creamy within, but that red wine jus—reduced to the edge of intensity, glossy with marrow and butter—tied everything together. This is the kind of cooking that doesn’t apologize for being rich.

Parisian Gnocchi with mushroom and mushroom sauce. And in case you were worried, these were coated in butter! The gnocchi—made with choux pastry rather than potato—were pillowy and light despite being slicked with more butter. The mushroom sauce was earthy and deeply savory, umami layered on umami.

The red Burgundies came out in waves, each more impressive than the last. We started with Bouchard Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus 2012, the Premier Cru that’s one of Bouchard’s signature bottlings. Silky, floral, classic Beaune. Then Bouchard Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cailles 2005, showing that village’s more structured, earthy character with age.

The lineup escalated: Bouchard Clos Vougeot 2002, the Grand Cru showing classic Vougeot power and structure; Bouchard Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 2002, one of the greatest Grand Crus in Burgundy, all perfume and precision; and Bouchard Chambertin 2009, ripe and generous from that sun-blessed vintage.

More treasures: Bouchard Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cailles 2005 and Bouchard Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2002, both showing beautifully with age—tertiary notes of forest floor, leather, and dried cherry emerging.

We dove deeper into the cellar: Bouchard Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus (vintage unclear); Bouchard Corton-Charlemagne 2000, the white Grand Cru; Bouchard Vosne-Romanée 2001, Grand Cru, from that legendary village; Bouchard Clos Vougeot 1999, showing two decades of evolution.

Then: Bouchard Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus (another vintage); Bouchard Chevalier-Montrachet 2020, the Grand Cru white; Bouchard Clos Vougeot 2001 and 1999—a vertical within the vertical.

The procession continued: Jean-Claude Boisset Savigny-Les-Beaune Les Peuillets 1999 Premier Cru; Domaine Parent Beaune Clos De La Mousse 2008 Premier Cru; Domaine Parent Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cras 2008 Premier Cru; Bouchard Le Corton 2012 Grand Cru; and Château de La Maltroye Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru white.

More gems emerged: Bouchard Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus 2012; Bouchard Clos Vougeot 2014; Joseph Drouhin Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 1999; Domaine Bouchard Beaune Clos de la Mousse 2008; Domaine Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Porets-Saint-Georges 2006; and Bouchard Le Corton 2008.

The bottles kept coming: Bouchard Volnay Les Caillerets 2012; Château de Beaune Le Corton 1992—a Grand Cru showing three decades of age; Bouchard Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus 2012 (yet another bottle of this stellar Premier Cru); Bouchard Clos Vougeot 2014; Bouchard Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 1999; and Bouchard Beaune Clos de la Mousse 2008.

As we moved toward the cheese course, the wine show continued unabated.

Artisanal Cheese Course with cool stoneware presenting pale straw and ivory: a chalk-white bloomy rind slumping into glossy custard alongside two batons of firm, sunlit-yellow cheese. The soft wedge exhales aromas of cultured cream and button mushroom, spreading like satin—saline, lactic-sweet, with hints of hazelnut. The companion slices offer gentle snap, yielding to supple chew with flavors of sweet butter, toasted grain, and faint apple acidity.

Cheese platter with Comté, Camembert, bread and butter. Classic, simple, perfect.

Yep, if butter sauce wasn’t enough, we needed MORE butter in its purest form! Because why not?

This was some really great food. I haven’t eaten at “regular” Seline yet myself, but given the photos online and my previous experience with the chef, the normal menu is much more modern and cerebral. This was pure butter-forward French—rich, classical, delicious, and utterly unrepentant.

More whites: Bouchard Meursault Genevrières 2020 and Meursault Perrières 2020, both Premier Crus; Bouchard Volnay Les Caillerets 2012; Bouchard Le Corton 1992; and Bouchard Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus Premier Cru.

The final wave: Bouchard Meursault Genevrières 2020 and Meursault Perrières 2020; Bouchard Volnay Les Caillerets 2012; and Domaines du Château de Meursault Le Corton Grand Cru 1992.

This was the kind of dinner that reminds you why classical French cooking endures. There’s a reason beurre blanc has survived centuries of culinary evolution: when it’s done right, nothing beats it. The scallop quenelle was ethereal, the salmon luxurious, every meat course elevated by sauces that tasted of hours of patient reduction and perfect technique. The kitchen knows how to handle butter and stock, gelatin and acid, building flavors that are rich without being cloying, intense without being overwrought.

And the wines—my god, the wines. Bouchard isn’t always the most exciting producer in Burgundy; they’re a large négociant with holdings that sometimes produce wines that are good rather than great. But on this night, with bottles chosen carefully and given time to breathe, the house showed what it can do. The Meursaults were textbook, the Beaune Grèves consistently elegant, the Clos Vougeots powerful and structured. The older vintages—that 1992 Corton, the 1999 bottles—demonstrated Burgundy’s ability to age with grace, developing complexity while retaining freshness.

What made the evening work was the synergy between food and wine. This wasn’t modernist cuisine that fights with traditional wine; it was cooking designed to showcase classic bottles. The butter sauces provided a luxurious canvas for white Burgundy’s richness and acidity. The meat jus—earthy, concentrated, layered with red wine—echoed the Pinot Noirs’ structure and tertiary development. Every pairing felt considered, harmonious, right.

The Sage Society deserves credit for orchestrating an event that was educational without being stuffy, luxurious without being pretentious. This was serious wine paired with serious cooking, served to people who appreciate both. No one was taking Instagram photos of every course or checking their phones between pours. We were tasting, discussing, comparing vintages, debating terroir, enjoying the hell out of ourselves.

Seline proved they can cook classically when called upon, even if their regular menu skews more contemporary. I’m curious to try their everyday offerings—modern Mediterranean with cerebral touches sounds appealing—but for this night, going full Burgundian was the right call. Sometimes you don’t need innovation; you just need butter, sauce, and technique. Lots of butter. An almost obscene amount of butter. And you know what? It was perfect.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Bouchard, Dave Beran, French Cuisine, Liz Lee, Sage Society, Seline, Wine

Spago – Friday Night Lights

Nov28

Restaurant: Spago, BEVERLY HILLS [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9]

Location: 176 North Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210 | +1 (310) 385-0880

Date: October 10, 2025

Cuisine: Californian

Rating: An Epic Wine-Fueled Celebration!

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Sometimes the stars align: the right restaurant, the right people, the right occasion. This October evening at Spago was one of those nights—a dinner with Walker and a bunch of new wine friends, the kind of gathering where the bottles flow faster than conversation and the conversation flows like vintage Burgundy. When you’re breaking bread (or, more accurately, sharing agnolotti) with fellow oenophiles, you know the cellar’s going to get a serious workout. And boy, did it ever.

Spago needs little introduction to anyone who’s spent time in Los Angeles. Wolfgang Puck’s flagship has been a Beverly Hills institution since 1982, defining California cuisine for generations and setting the template for what farm-to-table fine dining could be. Under current Executive Chef Ari Rosenson, who rose through the ranks from line cook to the top spot, the restaurant continues to evolve while maintaining that signature Spago magic: pristine ingredients, global influences filtered through a California lens, and just enough invention to keep things exciting without losing sight of flavor.

Rosenson’s background at BORDER, Vincenti, and Valentino shows through in his confident technique and respect for both tradition and innovation. His menu reads like a love letter to seasonal California produce, but with a worldly sophistication—Japanese touches here, Italian influences there, always in service of the ingredient rather than the ego. It’s the kind of cooking that feels both celebratory and deeply rooted, perfect for a night when the wine is as important as the food.

Tonight’s refined, contemporary menu.

We started with a true taste of fall luxury.

Matsutake Mushrooms with Sea Urchin, crowned with miso aioli, nori crunch, and shiso. The earthy, almost pine-like funk of matsutake against the sweet brininess of uni—a pairing that shouldn’t work as well as it does, but the miso aioli bridges the gap beautifully. The nori adds textural snap and the shiso lifts everything with its minty freshness.

Frog Hollow Farms Warren Pears with buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto San Daniele, roasted pear butter, and aged balsamic. This is autumn on a plate—the sweetness of perfectly ripe Warren pears (Frog Hollow knows their stone fruit) playing against salty prosciutto and creamy mozzarella. The roasted pear butter intensifies the fruit’s natural sugars while the balsamic cuts through with just enough acidity.

Japanese “Buri” Yellowtail Sashimi with pomegranate leche de tigre, ají amarillo, cucumber blossom, and tapioca crisp. Rosenson goes Nikkei here, marrying pristine Japanese fish with Peruvian firepower. The yellowtail’s buttery richness gets a wake-up call from the citrus-forward leche de tigre and gentle heat of ají amarillo, while pomegranate seeds burst with tart sweetness and the tapioca crisp adds necessary texture.

The classic Jewish pizza. You know the one—smoked salmon, crème fraîche, all the good stuff on a crispy base. Pure nostalgia done right.

Then came the pasta course, and this is where Spago really shines.

Agnolotti del Plin filled with butternut and kabocha squash, toasted pine nuts, crushed amaretti, and sage brown butter. These little pillows are textbook perfect—thin pasta encasing sweet, silky squash filling, the nutty richness of brown butter clinging to every fold. The amaretti adds a subtle almond sweetness and pleasant grittiness, while the pine nuts bring toasted depth. This is the kind of dish that reminds you why Italian technique matters.

Briganti Pasta with Maine Lobster, heirloom cherry tomatoes, preserved lemon, cipollini onion, and basil. The lobster is generous and sweet, the pasta perfectly al dente, and the sauce walks that fine line between rich and bright—the preserved lemon doing the heavy lifting to keep things from getting too heavy. Cipollini adds a gentle sweetness that plays beautifully with the tomatoes.

Custard Pastry with Strawberries—very old fashioned and delicious strawberry cake with very intense (Harry’s Berries?) strawberries. This is dessert as it should be: not overthought, not deconstructed, just damn good. The custard is silky and rich, the pastry flaky and buttery, and those strawberries are so concentrated with flavor they almost taste like strawberry essence. If these aren’t from Harry’s Berries, I’d be shocked.

But let’s be honest—the real stars of this evening were the wines. When you gather six wine geeks at one table, things escalate quickly. And I mean that in the best possible way.

Great meal. All this wine was about 6 guys! An absolutely ridiculous lineup that would make any sommelier weep.

 

The parade began with Krug Champagne, its dark label partially obscured but its pedigree unmistakable. Krug’s signature blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, always a statement of intent. We also opened 00 Wines from Oregon, a modern bottling with minimalistic design, likely a Chardonnay or Pinot Noir showcasing the producer’s clean, focused style.

The white Burgundies came out in force: Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 2011, a benchmark white Burgundy with Ramonet’s signature richness and minerality—2011 was a lovely vintage, showing beautifully now with some age. On the red Burgundy front, we dove deep: Domaine Dujac Morey-Saint-Denis 2011, elegant and perfumed as Dujac always is; Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny, showing that village’s signature silky texture and floral aromatics; Clos de Tart, the Grand Cru monopole from Morey-Saint-Denis, always one of the most complete and age-worthy Pinots in Burgundy.

We kept climbing: Château de la Tour Clos de Vougeot, one of the more reliable bottlings from this sprawling Grand Cru; Domaine Leroy, though the specific bottling was obscured, brought that unmistakable Leroy concentration and purity. And then the big guns: Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Grenache-based icon from the Rhône, always an experience with its earthy complexity and deceptive power.

The procession continued: 00 Seven Springs from Oregon; Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 2013, the Grand Cru white Burgundy benchmark; J.F. Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny, refined and classic; Domaine Armand Rousseau Morey-Saint-Denis; Georges Roumier single vineyard bottling.

Then we moved to Bordeaux: Château Margaux, the elegant First Growth from Margaux; Château Cos d’Estournel, the powerful Second Growth from Saint-Estèphe with its exotic label.

From the Rhône: Guigal Côte-Rôtie 1999, showing that vintage’s structure and the appellation’s savory Syrah character; Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1999, a legendary bottling from a great vintage, all dark fruit and mineral density.

And from Australia: Jasper Hill Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz 2001 from Heathcote, showing what Australian Shiraz can do with age—earthy, complex, still vibrant.

More treasures emerged: Morey-Saint-Denis estate bottling; Echézeaux Grand Cru, one of Burgundy’s most prestigious appellations; Vosne-Romanée, probably the most famous village in all of wine; another Clos de Tart; another Château Margaux; another Cos d’Estournel.

Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie 2001, a producer’s Syrah showing the Northern Rhône at its most elegant. Château Rayas 2012, another bottle of this Grenache masterpiece. And Chassagne-Montrachet, rounding out the white Burgundy selection.

The final assault included: Domaine G. Roumier Chambolle-Musigny, possibly from 1990, showing how great Burgundy ages; Domaine Jean-Marc Millot Vosne-Romanée; DRC La Tâche (yes, another one—we weren’t messing around); Château Margaux (third bottle); Château Cos d’Estournel 2000, the legendary millennium vintage showing perfectly; Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline 2001, part of the famous “La La” wines, rich with Syrah and a touch of Viognier; Château Rayas (another bottle); DRC Richebourg Grand Cru, celebrated for its depth and complexity; and Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet 2011, the Grand Cru white with Ramonet’s rich texture and stunning minerality.

This is what happens when wine lovers gather: bottles beget bottles, and before you know it, you’ve worked your way through some of the greatest wines on earth. DRC, Roumier, Rayas, Margaux, Cos—this wasn’t a dinner, it was a masterclass.

The food at Spago was excellent—Rosenson’s cooking is confident, seasonal, and deeply satisfying. The matsutake and uni starter was a revelation, the agnolotti textbook perfect, the lobster pasta generous and bright. But on this night, the meal was almost a supporting player to the wine extravaganza unfolding in our glasses.

What made the evening special wasn’t just the quality of the bottles (though my god, what bottles) but the company and the sharing. Walker and the crew brought their A-game from the cellar, and watching these wines open up, comparing vintages, debating appellations—this is what wine culture is all about. Not hoarding, not keeping score, but opening, sharing, and experiencing together.

Spago proved once again why it’s been a Los Angeles icon for over four decades. The food is still excellent, the space still buzzes with energy, and it remains the perfect stage for nights like this—celebrations that turn into marathons, dinners that become memories. When you’ve got DRC flowing and friends around the table, you’re not just dining out. You’re living.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  5. Sauvage Spago
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Friday Night, Spago, Wine

Crucial Crustacean

Nov26

Restaurant: Crustacean Beverly Hills   [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11]

Location: 468 North Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210 | (310) 205-8990

Date: October 8, 2025

Cuisine: Modern Asian Dining

Rating: A Spectacular Hedonist Feast!

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The Hedonists and I have been regulars at Crustacean for years now, drawn back again and again by our special friendship with the An family. Elizabeth An and her mother Helene have created something truly remarkable here in Beverly Hills—a restaurant that manages to honor Vietnamese culinary tradition while elevating it to fine-dining heights. On this particular evening, they put together something extraordinary for us: an elevated traditional Vietnamese menu that stepped away from the more fusion-oriented fare typically available to the public and dove deep into the classical techniques and flavors of Vietnamese home cooking, refined through the lens of Helene’s decades of restaurant experience.

This was no ordinary Tuesday night dinner. Elizabeth and Helene curated a special tasting menu that showcased the breadth and sophistication of traditional Vietnamese cuisine, from housemade charcuterie to perfectly grilled seafood, from delicate bánh xèo to the restaurant’s famous garlic noodles. Each dish represented a different facet of Vietnamese cooking, executed with the precision and ingredient quality you’d expect from one of Beverly Hills’ premier dining destinations.

Crustacean Beverly Hills has been a fixture in the LA dining scene for decades, pioneered by Chef Helene An, who is often credited as the mother of Vietnamese fusion cuisine in America. Born into an aristocratic Vietnamese family and trained in both traditional Vietnamese cooking and French technique, Helene has won numerous awards including the Lifetime Achievement Award at the 2016 Golden Foodie Awards. Her daughter Elizabeth has carried on the family legacy, maintaining the restaurant’s commitment to quality while honoring the “Secret Kitchen”—a private kitchen within the kitchen where cherished family recipes are prepared away from prying eyes.

Tonight’s ambitious menu showcased the full range of traditional Vietnamese cooking with luxe modern touches.

We started with a parade of Vietnamese classics, each one more refined than you’d typically encounter.

Vietnamese Charcuterie — Housemade traditional cold cuts including Giò Thu, Giò Huế, and Giò Bò. These are the kinds of delicate, meticulously prepared Vietnamese pork and beef sausages that take days to make properly, each one showcasing different textures and spice profiles. The attention to detail was evident in every slice.

Crispy Bánh Hỏi Wrapped Tiger Prawns — Rice vermicelli, tiger prawns, chili paste, and honey. The bánh hỏi provided a crunchy, almost tempura-like coating for the sweet prawns, with the chili-honey glaze adding just the right amount of heat and sweetness. Really quite excellent.

An array of dipping sauces accompanied the early courses, each one carefully balanced.

Grilled Mực Nướng Calamari — Grilled calamari with turmeric, peanuts, fish sauce, and Vietnamese balm, grilled over white coals. The smokiness from the charcoal paired beautifully with the turmeric’s earthy notes, while the fish sauce provided that essential umami backbone. The calamari itself was tender and perfectly charred.

Roast Duck Gỏi Cuốn Rolls — Fresh rice paper, five-spiced roasted duck, pickled vegetables, and assorted Vietnamese herbs. The duck was succulent and richly spiced, while the fresh herbs and pickles cut through the richness perfectly. These were textbook gỏi cuốn, executed with premium ingredients.

A simple dish prepared for one of our picky eaters in the group.

Escargot Bánh Xèo — A5 tallow, rau ram, bean sprouts, wood ear and shiitake mushrooms, with garlic lime. This was a luxe take on the classic Vietnamese crepe, with the escargot adding a French touch to the traditional format. The A5 tallow made the crepe incredibly rich and crispy, while the herbs and mushrooms provided textural contrast. Totally awesome.

King Crab & Caviar Bánh Khọt — Crispy rice flour tart with coconut béchamel and Kaluga caviar. These miniature crispy cups were filled with sweet king crab meat, creamy coconut béchamel, and topped with glistening caviar. One of the standout dishes of the night, combining Vietnamese technique with seriously luxe ingredients.

Bún Riêu Crab Soup — Fresh shrimp, dried shrimp, Dungeness crab, eggs, peeled tomato, banana flower, and kinh gioi leaves. This is one of Vietnam’s most beloved soups, and this version was outstanding. The tomato-based broth was deeply savory from the multiple forms of shellfish, while the banana flower added a subtle bitterness and the herbs kept everything bright. Damn good.

Wagyu Wrapped in Lá Lốt Leaves — Wagyu ground beef, beef tallow, lá lốt leaves, and shallots, served with bánh hỏi noodles. The lá lốt leaves imparted their distinctive peppery, slightly minty flavor to the rich wagyu, while the beef tallow made everything incredibly juicy. Wrapped in the delicate bánh hỏi, this was a perfect bite.

Chả Cá Hanoi — Grilled filet of sole with turmeric, galangal, and dill, served with An’s Famous Garlic Noodles®. This Hanoi specialty showcased the sole’s delicate texture, perfumed with turmeric and galangal, brightened by fresh dill. And of course, those garlic noodles—Crustacean’s signature dish that has spawned countless imitators across LA. The secret sauce coating each strand is still unmatched.

Sparerib Sườn Rang — Pork spareribs with burnt caramel, soy, ginger, and shallot, served with broken rice. The caramelization on these ribs was spectacular, with that classic Vietnamese burnt sugar flavor that’s simultaneously sweet, savory, and slightly bitter. The meat fell off the bone, and the broken rice soaked up all the intensely flavored sauce.

Wine with dinner.

This was the kind of meal that reminds you why Crustacean has endured for so long in a city where restaurants come and go with alarming frequency. Elizabeth and Helene’s decision to showcase elevated traditional Vietnamese dishes rather than the fusion fare that made the restaurant famous demonstrated both their confidence in the cuisine’s sophistication and their deep understanding of Vietnamese culinary tradition. Every dish showed meticulous technique—from the housemade charcuterie that takes days to prepare properly, to the bánh xèo with its impossibly thin, crispy edges, to the perfectly balanced bún riêu with its complex layering of seafood flavors.

What made this dinner particularly special was the sense of hospitality and friendship that infused every course. The Hedonists and I have been coming here for years, and the An family treats us like extended family. There’s something wonderful about dining at a restaurant where the chef knows your preferences, where special off-menu items appear just for your table, where the meal becomes a conversation rather than a transaction.

The standouts for me were the king crab bánh khọt with its luxurious toppings, the deeply flavored bún riêu, and those incomparable garlic noodles that continue to set the standard after all these years. But really, the entire menu was a masterclass in traditional Vietnamese cooking executed at the highest level. This is the kind of meal that makes you appreciate the depth and sophistication of Vietnamese cuisine—not just the pho and bánh mì that most Americans know, but the full range of techniques and flavors that make it one of the world’s great culinary traditions.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: An Family, Beverly Hills, Crustacean, hedonists, Vietnamese cuisine, Vietnamese Fusion, Wine

Kojima Kool

Nov23

Restaurant: Kojima

Location: 2130 Sawtelle Blvd, Ste 211, Los Angeles, CA 90025 | +1 (424) 248-0116

Date: October 7, 2025

Cuisine: Japanese

Rating: Very Good and a Lot of Fun!

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Kojima is a new omakase place on Sawtelle, and I have to say, it’s a bit of a breath of fresh air in the LA Japanese dining scene. What sets this place apart is that there’s no sushi per se—it’s very Japanese but with a lot of different cooking techniques on display. Think less sushi bar, more izakaya meets kaiseki, with the chef showing off a wide range of skills.

The space itself is a bit unusual for an omakase spot. It’s medium-large, with a generous bar that can accommodate more than the typical intimate 8-10 seat setup. It’s comfortable without being stuffy, and there’s a convivial energy that makes it feel more approachable than some of the ultra-serious omakase temples around town.

Chef Hayato Kojima is the mastermind behind this operation. Born and raised in Tokyo, he trained under several renowned sushi chefs to refine his culinary skills, working at top eateries in both Tokyo and Los Angeles before launching Kojima. His philosophy is deeply rooted in traditional Japanese culinary practices, particularly the “kaiseki” tradition—a multi-course meal that focuses on balance, seasonality, and simplicity. But rather than just replicating what he learned, Kojima has infused his own creative spirit, pushing beyond sushi to reveal the depth and variety within Japanese cuisine.

The space is a bit weird, medium large for an omakase place, with a generous bar.

Behind the bar.

From my cellar: Domaine Roulot Meursault “Clos des Bouchères” Monopole 2011 and Domaine Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru “Champs-Canet” 2011. Both Premier Cru white Burgundies from Côte de Beaune, showcasing the minerality and elegance of these legendary producers.

Chawan with ikura (salmon eggs). Silky custard with briny pop. A classic Japanese start—the custard was silky, and the ikura provided those little bursts of brine and sea.

 

Next came something you don’t see every day: cod sperm sacks with a kind of mountain yam. Soft textures. Squirmy. This is one of those dishes that’s an acquired taste—the texture is, well, exactly what it sounds like. Creamy, slightly slippery, and very much a “you either get it or you don’t” kind of thing. I appreciated the technique and the boldness of putting it on the menu.

 

Then we had chicken hearts. Or at least I think they were chicken hearts—grilled to perfection with that slightly chewy, rich organ meat texture. Really quite good, with a nice char.

White fish sashimi with some yuzu was next. Clean, delicate, with that bright citrus note cutting through the fish’s natural sweetness.

Albacore followed—buttery, rich, with that characteristic mild flavor. A classic.

 

Then a light dashi broth with noodles and white fish. This was comforting, with that umami-rich dashi providing depth while the noodles and fish kept it light and refreshing.

Grilled fish—perfectly cooked, with a nice sear and that sweet, smoky flavor you get from proper grilling.

Next, something under a pile of radish—I honestly can’t remember what was under there, but the radish itself was crisp and refreshing.

Fried crab tempura—light, crispy batter with sweet crab inside. Textbook tempura execution.

Japanese meatballs—very simple, totally awesome.

Meatball with salad. Tastes like burger! In the best possible way.

Miso soup—classic and comforting.

Toro-dan—rich, fatty tuna over rice. Decadent.

Tea to cleanse the palate.

Dessert was sweet tamago or maybe it was cheesecake—it had that custardy, slightly sweet quality of tamago but also a richness that suggested cheesecake. Either way, it was a nice way to end.

The wines for tonight.

Outside with Chef Hayato Kojima.

Kojima was very good and a lot of fun. The food was a bit different—no sushi per se, but very Japanese with a lot of different cooking techniques on display. What I appreciated most was the range: from the adventurous (cod sperm sacks) to the comforting (those meatballs!), Kojima showed a willingness to explore the full spectrum of Japanese cuisine rather than sticking to the expected omakase formula.

The wines—both 2011 white Burgundies—paired beautifully with the lighter dishes and provided a nice counterpoint to some of the richer preparations. The Roulot and Ramonet are both drinking at their peak right now, showing that beautiful balance of fruit, minerality, and tertiary complexity that makes white Burgundy so compelling.

If you’re looking for something a little different in the LA omakase scene—less precious, more playful, with serious technique but a relaxed vibe—Kojima is worth a visit. It’s not trying to be the next Sushi Ginza Onodera or Morihiro, and that’s exactly what makes it refreshing.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  5. More Masuyoshi
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Foodie Club, Japanese cuisine, meatball, Sawtelle, Wine

LaLa Blvd

Nov17

Restaurant: BLVD Steak

Location: The Commons at Calabasas, 4776 Commons Way, Suite A, Calabasas, CA 91302 | 818.436.2900

Date: September 14, 2025

Cuisine: Steakhouse

Rating: Classic American Excellence!

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Sometimes you just need a really damn good steak. No molecular gastronomy, no foam, no deconstructed anything—just quality beef cooked right, with all the classic sides you crave. Well, Yarom feels that way about 3 times a week so off to this slightly different branch of BLVD we went for our LaLa Sunday dinner.

Located in The Commons at Calabasas, BLVD Steak is the kind of modern steakhouse that gets the fundamentals right without any pretension. The space strikes that perfect balance between elegant and comfortable—polished wood floors, mood lighting, and an open kitchen where you can watch the chefs work their magic. It’s the sort of place where you can settle into a booth, order a big steak, and just enjoy the experience without overthinking it.

Chef Christian Corben brings serious credentials to the table. Trained at the prestigious Paul Bocuse Institute in France and seasoned in Michelin-starred kitchens across Europe, he’s worked with culinary heavyweights like Alain Ducasse and Jean-Georges Vongerichten. But at BLVD Steak, he’s channeling all that experience into perfecting the American steakhouse classics, using California’s fresh local ingredients while staying true to his French training. The result is a menu that feels both familiar and refined.

Tonight’s menu.

Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail—mustard aioli, cocktail sauce. These weren’t your average shrimp; each one had that perfect snap before giving way to sweet, succulent meat. The mustard aioli added a nice peppered warmth that played beautifully against the clean, briny flavor of the prawns.

Tuna Tartare with sesame, Marcona almonds, and avocado mousse. The tuna was impeccably fresh, with the sesame adding a nutty depth and the almonds providing a satisfying crunch. The avocado mousse brought it all together with a silky richness. A Frisée Salad with winter citrus offered that characteristic bitter snap from the pale-green curls, while glistening segments of orange and grapefruit added bursts of sweet-tart juice. The shallot vinaigrette threaded everything together with a savory depth.

Lobster Skewers with soy, garlic, and Fresno chili were a highlight. The lobster was perfectly cooked—tender and sweet—with the soy and garlic adding an umami punch and the Fresno chili bringing just the right amount of heat.

This was actually a blend of 4 different La Tache vintages!

Steak Tartare—filet, Dijon, Worcestershire, pickles. Textbook perfect. Finely chopped filet with just the right amount of Dijon bite and Worcestershire umami, punctuated by the acidic crunch of pickles. Really quite excellent.

The Wagyu Meatball in vodka sauce with Parmesan. This thing was a revelation—rich, luxurious wagyu beef formed into a massive meatball, swimming in a silky vodka sauce and showered with aged Parmesan. Totally awesome.

Spicy Rigatoni alla Vodka—vodka sauce, Parmesan, chili. We couldn’t resist. The pasta was perfectly al dente, coated in that same luscious vodka sauce with a nice kick from the chili. Dangerous stuff—I kept going back for more.

Now for the main event: the steaks. We went big and ordered two different cuts to share. Both were cooked to a perfect medium-rare, with a beautiful crust and juicy, tender interior. The beef quality was top-notch—well-marbled and full of flavor.

Sauces. The peppercorn was pretty good—creamy with a nice kick of cracked pepper that complemented the beef beautifully without overwhelming it.

Steak and potato.

Potato toppings—butter, sour cream, bacon, chives—the works.

Chipotle-Lime Corn brought a nice pop of brightness and smoke to balance all the richness.

Shoestring Fries—crispy, salty, addictive. Yum.

Creamed Spinach—rich, velvety, exactly what you want.

Smashed Broccoli—a nice lighter option with crispy edges and a hint of char.

Cheesecake.

Buttercake.

Caramel Popcorn Budino—silky Italian pudding with a salted caramel popcorn topping that added both sweetness and a playful crunch. Really quite excellent, my favorite of the three.

BLVD Steak delivers exactly what a modern steakhouse should: solid beef, expertly cooked; classic sides done right; and a comfortable, unpretentious atmosphere where you can just enjoy your meal. Chef Corben’s European training shows in the precision and technique, but he’s smart enough not to overcomplicate things. Sometimes the best cooking is knowing when to let great ingredients speak for themselves.

The wagyu meatball, spicy pasta and the caramel popcorn budino were standouts, and those steaks were damn good. If you’re in the Calabasas area and craving a proper steakhouse experience, BLVD Steak hits all the right notes.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Dirty Dozen at BLVD Steak
  2. LaLa – Valentino
  3. Dirty Dozen West
  4. Saddle Peak Peaks
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BLVD Steak, Calabasas, hedonists, Lala, Rhone, Wine

More Masuyoshi

Nov15

Restaurant: Sushi Masuyoshi [1, 2]

Location: 10834 Washington Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232 | +1 (323) 509-6155

Date: September 10, 2025

Cuisine: Japanese, Sushi

Rating: Intimate Excellence!

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Finding exceptional omakase in LA has become both easier and harder in recent years. Easier because there are now more serious sushi-ya than ever before. Harder because separating the truly excellent from the merely good requires doing your homework. Foodie Club Joe has pretty much a standing reservation here, and the place is only 5-6 people big!

Tucked into a nondescript Culver City strip mall on Washington Boulevard, Masuyoshi is the kind of place you could easily drive past without noticing. But that’s part of its charm – no flashy signage, no Instagram-bait neon, just serious sushi in a room that seats maybe a dozen people at the counter. This is old-school omakase sensibility: you come for the fish, not the scene.


The tiny room – maybe 6 seats along the tiny sushi counter.

Sushi Masuyoshi has quietly become one of those tiny jewels tucked into the fabric of Culver City—a ten-seat counter where Chef Hozumi Masuyoshi orchestrates nightly omakase performances with precision and restraint. This was a Foodie Club dinner, one of those rare evenings when the wine flows as generously as the sake, and we gathered to celebrate the simple perfection of seasonal fish and the artistry of traditional Edomae technique. I’d heard whispers about Masuyoshi’s meticulous sourcing and his devotion to the fundamentals—perfectly seasoned rice, hand-grated wasabi, fish treated with reverence—but experiencing it firsthand is something else entirely.

Chef Masuyoshi trained in Tokyo’s prestigious sushi houses before making his way to Los Angeles, where he’s carved out a reputation for authenticity without pretension. His philosophy centers on letting the ingredients speak: pristine fish from Japan’s morning markets, rice cooked to precise doneness, and technique honed over decades. The restaurant itself is intimate to the point of cozy—just that small counter where you watch every move, every brush of nikiri, every precise cut. There’s no pomp, no Instagram theatrics, just the quiet confidence of a master at work.


The players.


Joy working his corner.


An omakase-style Japanese menu centered on pristine seafood, featuring daily sashimi, toro cuts of bluefin, uni, unagi, and seasonal fish such as halibut, golden-eye snapper, and king mackerel. The progression is rounded out with chawanmushi, vegetable tempura, dashimaki tamago, soup, and fruit to finish.


Ginger!


Sashimi materials.

The meal began with a stunning sashimi plate showcasing the day’s catch—pristine cuts laid out like a painter’s palette.


The sashimi plate.


again.


Chawan-mushi with uni—silky savory custard with a crown of sea urchin, clean dashi warmth layered with oceanic richness.


Torotaku handroll—fatty tuna belly and crunchy pickled daikon wrapped in crisp nori, a textural masterclass.

Then the nigiri parade began in earnest. Masuyoshi-san worked with focused intensity, brushing each piece with nikiri and passing it across the counter still warm from his hands.


Hirame halibut with liver—delicate white fish with a dab of creamy liver, clean and refined.


Kinmedai Golden Eye Snapper—ruby-red flesh with a faint sweetness and buttery texture.


Domaine Leroy Richebourg Grand Cru 1998 — Burgundy royalty. This legendary Pinot Noir from Vosne-Romanée’s Richebourg vineyard is pure magic: deep garnet in the glass with a haunting nose of forest floor, dried rose petals, and black cherry preserves. On the palate it’s all silk and structure, layering earthy complexity with bright red fruit and a mineral backbone that seems to go on forever. Leroy’s biodynamic farming and low yields deliver concentration without weight—Mozart’s rococo lightness in liquid form. A transcendent pairing with the pristine fish.


Sawara King Mackerel—silver-skinned with a hint of char, rich and meaty.


Blue Fin Tuna—clean, lean, the platonic ideal of maguro.

Coche-Dury – Meursault: Vintage 2008 (clearly shown on the neck label). The main label reads “Coche-Dury” at top, with “Meursault” prominently displayed in elegant script. Region/Appellation:
Meursault, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy (France). Grape variety: Chardonnay. Wine style: White Burgundy. This producer is legendary for rich, mineral-driven Chardonnay that balances opulence with restraint—classic
old-vine white Burgundy at its finest.


Mystery role (today’s inspiration)—Masuyoshi-san’s spontaneous creation, whatever caught his eye that morning.

Domaine Coche‑Dury – Meursault: Vintage 2008 (clearly printed on the neck label). Region/Appellation: Meursault, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy (France). Grape variety: Chardonnay. Wine style: White Burgundy
Chardonnay. The label shows the producer’s name “COCHE‑DURY” in classic typography; Meursault village appellation text is centered below. Notable label details: Estate bottled (“Mis en bouteille au domaine”),
indication of traditional winemaking heritage. Coche‑Dury wines are among Burgundy’s most sought‑after whites—rich, textured, and age‑worthy.


Chu-toro medium fatty tuna with caviar—was my dish of the night—garnet-rose belly tuna draped over rice, crowned with black pearls and gold leaf. The toro melts into silken, almost custardy softness while the caviar snaps with briny elegance. This is omakase luxury at its finest.


Scallop, truffle and uni—sweet scallop with earthy truffle shavings and creamy sea urchin. Totally awesome.


Taittinger – Comtes de Champagne Grands Crus Rosé: Vintage 2007. Region/Appellation: Champagne, France (Grands Crus designation). Grape varieties: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend (rosé de saignée or
rosé d’assemblage method). Wine style: Prestige Cuvée Champagne Rosé. The label features the distinguished “Comtes de Champagne” branding with elegant gold script on a cream‑colored background, the Taittinger
crest, and clear “Rosé” and “Grands Crus” markings. This is Taittinger’s flagship rosé, produced only in exceptional vintages from Grand Cru vineyards—known for its finesse, red‑berry aromatics, and silky
mousse.

Otoro super fatty tuna belly—the fattiest cut, pure decadence.


Miso of the sea—a rich, savory soup course.

Domaine Jean Grivot – Echézeaux Grand Cru. Vintage: 2010. Region/Appellation: Echézeaux Grand Cru, Flagey-Echézeaux, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy (France). Grape variety: Pinot Noir. Wine style: Burgundy
Grand Cru Pinot Noir. The label clearly states “ECHEZEAUX” and “GRAND CRU” with “APPELLATION CONTROLEE” beneath, and the Grivot family name at the base. Jean Grivot is one of Vosne-Romanée’s most respected
estates, known for perfumed, elegant reds with silky tannins, depth, and terroir expression. Echézeaux sits just below the legendary Clos de Vougeot and offers refined, floral Pinot Noir.
Hokkaido Uni Sea Urchin—sweet, creamy, oceanic perfection.


Wagyu—a detour from the sea, richly marbled Japanese beef.


Special wagyu steak—seared beautifully, the beef melting on the tongue with buttery richness.


Ponzu—translucent citrus-soy sauce, a palate cleanser with bright yuzu oils and savory depth.


Vegetable tempura. Then came the tempura course—light, delicate, expertly fried.


Ebi tempura—a single prawn in gossamer batter, the snap of shrimp perfectly preserved beneath the golden crust.


Tempura zucchini—slender, emerald-skinned, feathery batter giving way to tender flesh.


Maitake tempura—champagne-gold mushroom fronds, woodsy and plush, finished with matcha salt.


Tamagoyaki—pale-golden egg custard with a satin sheen, savory-sweet layers dissolving into pure comfort.


Seasonal fruit amuse—jewel-like grapes, amber gelée, crisp shiso, a refreshing finale.

This was one of the best omakase experiences I’ve had in Los Angeles in quite some time. Masuyoshi-san’s quiet mastery, the pristine sourcing, the textural precision—it all came together in a meal that felt both traditional and alive. The standout was absolutely that otoro with caviar, a dish that embodies everything sublime about Japanese technique: restraint meeting luxury, simplicity revealing complexity. The Leroy Richebourg was transcendent, one of those bottles you remember for years, its earthy elegance lifting every course.

Compared to some of LA’s flashier omakase spots, Masuyoshi feels refreshingly unpretentious. There’s no Instagram moment manufacturing, no forced theatrics—just a chef who knows his craft and ingredients that speak for themselves. If you’re a sushi purist or a Burgundy lover (or both), this is your spot. Highly recommended for serious Foodie Club outings or any occasion that calls for celebrating the fundamentals done flawlessly.

For more LA Foodie Club dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Mega Masuyoshi
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  3. N/Naka on the Nose
  4. Totally Takeda
  5. Shunji Sushi – Nonstop Nigiri
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Foodie Club, Japanese cuisine, Sushi, Wine

SGV Eats – Blue Magpie

Nov13

Restaurant: Blue Magpie

Location: 41 W Huntington Drive, Arcadia, CA

Date: August 9, 2025

Cuisine: Taiwanese Fine Dining

Rating: Nice Modern Taiwanese!

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Blue Magpie has been on my radar ever since it opened in Arcadia, bringing serious Taiwanese fine dining to the San Gabriel Valley. This isn’t your typical Taiwanese restaurant – it’s an ambitious, modern take on the cuisine with refined techniques and creative presentations that wouldn’t be out of place at higher-end establishments in the LA dining scene.

Located at 41 W Huntington Drive in Arcadia, Blue Magpie occupies a sleek, modern space that immediately signals its upscale aspirations. The restaurant focuses on Taiwanese fine dining, which is still a relatively rare category in the area – most Taiwanese spots lean casual or family-style, but Blue Magpie is going for something more refined.

The exterior is modern and inviting, with clean lines and large windows.

The main dining room.

The private room.

Crispy wontons. A light, delicate start to the meal.

PORK JOWL. 豬芭芥. guava relish, cabbage. Really interesting combination – the guava brought a tropical sweetness that balanced the rich pork perfectly.

BEEF TARTARE 生牛肉塔. orange soy, passion fruit, rice crisp, shallot. Bold flavors here – the citrus really popped against the rich beef.

SAUSAGE. 錢櫃香腸. truffle, cabbage, scallion. The truffle was nicely integrated without overwhelming the dish.

HOLLANDAISE TOFU. 豆腐皮蛋. preserved egg hollandaise, pork floss. This was pretty creative – bringing French technique to Taiwanese ingredients. Quite good.

CENTURY EGG. 鍋巴皮蛋. preserved egg, garlic, rice crisp, peppers. The rice crisp added great textural contrast to the creamy egg.

CRISPY RED SNAPPER. 立麟魚菲力. typhoon style garlic and pepper, scallion, cilantro oil. One of the standout dishes – the fish skin was perfectly crispy and the “typhoon style” preparation delivered on its promise with serious aromatics and heat.

KUNG PAO SCALLOPS. 宮保干貝. peppercorn, onions, cashew. Beautifully plated and the scallops were perfectly seared with that nice caramelization.

SEARED FILET MIGNON. 蔥鹽爆炒骰子牛. onion and scallion relish, quinoa. Nice beef, cooked to a perfect medium-rare.

SAN BEI DUCK. 三杯鴨胸. cherry tomatoes, basil. Classic Taiwanese preparation done well – the three-cup sauce was rich and aromatic.

FERMENTED RICE SHORT RIBS. 紅糟牛小排. peppers, shaoxing wine, lemon. The fermented rice added a unique funky complexity to the tender short ribs.

LOBSTER SPAGHETTI. 龍蝦擔擔麵. sesame béchamel, chili oil. This was absolutely killer – probably my dish of the night. The lobster was sweet and perfectly cooked, and the sesame béchamel with chili oil was this incredible fusion that shouldn’t work but totally does. Like a Taiwanese take on pasta that’s somehow better than most Italian versions.

WHARF FRIED RICE. 海鮮炒飯. flying fish roe, scallop, squid, scallions, egg. Beautiful presentation with the jewel-like tobiko on top. The rice itself had great wok hei and was loaded with quality seafood.

CABBAGE STIR FRY. 櫻花蝦高麗菜. garlic, pancetta, sakura shrimp, abalone. Don’t sleep on the vegetables – this simple stir fry had incredible depth from the dried shrimp and pancetta.

Sweet jelly.

Blue Magpie is doing something special in Arcadia. This isn’t just good Taiwanese food – it’s Taiwanese food elevated to fine dining levels while keeping the soul of the cuisine intact. The cooking shows real technical skill, from perfectly crisped fish skin to properly executed sauces, but more importantly there’s a coherent vision here. The chef understands how to balance traditional flavors with modern techniques and presentations without losing authenticity.

The standouts were definitely the lobster spaghetti (seriously, go for that) and the crispy red snapper, but honestly there wasn’t a weak dish in the lineup. Everything showed careful attention to ingredients, technique, and flavor balance. The space is lovely – modern and refined without being stuffy – and service was attentive.

For SGV dining, this sits in a unique sweet spot: more refined than the casual Taiwanese spots but more approachable than some of the ultra-high-end Chinese fine dining places. It’s the kind of place that works for both a special occasion and a really good regular meal if you’re in the area.

Definitely one to watch – and to return to soon.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Blue Ribbon Sushi
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By: agavin
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Tagged as: Arcadia, Chinese Food, hedonists, SGV, Taiwanese Cuisine, Wine

Wonderful Wonde

Nov08

Restaurant: Wonde Harbor

Location: 1655 S Azusa Ave, Hacienda, Heights. 626-888-7666

Date: July 20 & October 19, 2025

Cuisine: Cantonese Chinese

Rating: Excellent

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For this week’s Sunday Chinese we hauled all the way out again for this new place, right next door to the interesting Happy Valley Village.

Step into Wonde Harbor Restaurant, where the inviting facade, adorned with elegant signage and a warm palette, sets the stage for a culinary journey enriched by an atmosphere that seamlessly blends tradition and modernity, inviting diners to indulge in an authentic yet contemporary dining experience.

The spacious dining hall, adorned with elegant chandeliers and rich wooden accents, exudes a refined yet inviting atmosphere, where each table set with crisp linens invites guests to indulge in a culinary journey marked by both tradition and sophistication.

Tanks are always key.

The menu at Wonde Harbor features an impressive selection of seafood dishes, showcasing fresh ingredients with an emphasis on crab preparations and various cooking techniques. Diners can expect a mix of traditional flavors with contemporary presentations, highlighting the restaurant’s commitment to high-quality culinary experiences.


In October we returned to Wonde Seafood for yet another awesome Sunday Cantonese dinner. We had a solid mandate to order, but alas, it was pre ordered by Yarom, so we had good — but typical — dishes.

But on the second visit we did have a great private room.

The Krug Grande Cuvée, a benchmark Champagne from the prestigious Krug house, boasts a rich blend of over 120 wines from more than a decade. Originating from the Champagne region of France, this non-vintage cuvée is renowned for its complexity, showcasing layers of toasted brioche, dried fruit, and citrus zest. It pairs beautifully with seafood, particularly oysters and lobster, as well as creamy cheeses.

Roasted peanuts.

The dish, Spicy Cucumber Salad, presents a vibrant array of emerald greens, each cucumber glistening with a light sheen of reflective sesame oil. The aroma is a tantalizing medley of fresh herbs, with the sharp cilantro intermingling with the gentle heat of red chili flakes, creating an olfactory invitation that is both refreshing and spirited. Texturally, the salad dances between the crisp crunch of the cucumbers and the tender zest of finely chopped garlic, each bite offering a satisfying snap followed by a burst of lively flavors. The taste is a harmonious blend of cooling cucumber, piquant lime juice, and the subtle warmth of chili, crafting a dish that is invigorating yet deeply comforting—a perfect symphony of lightness and complexity on the palate.


The cold plate of roast pork, boiled beef, roast duck, and jellyfish.


One of the many Yarom favorites: scrambled eggs with shrimp. Good version though.

Here we see our charismatic chef proudly presenting a magnificent lobster, setting the stage for a memorable culinary experience.

Ginger & Scallion Lobster. A Cantonese classic: tender, bouncy lobster tossed with wok-fired ginger and scallions, savory and aromatic with a gentle peppery zing. The shells take on a light lacquer, and the sweet meat shines through the fragrance.


King Crab legs, steamed with garlic.

King Crab body, salty egg style. I don’t like this style: too rich and with that grainy texture. Plus crab is already salty.

King Crab fried rice.

Lobster typhoon style. We should have skipped this dish — the first type of lobster was better.

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles by Louis Jadot hails from the prestigious Côte de Beaune region in Burgundy, France. This Chardonnay showcases a brilliant harmony of floral and mineral attributes, underscored by a creamy texture and lively acidity. Perfectly pairs with fresh seafood or a rich lobster dish, enhancing the dining experience with its elegance and sophistication.

Scallops with morels and XO sauce. Nice and snappy veggies. Sweet, just-set scallops meet earthy morels, lifted by XO’s briny heat and a glossy, savory finish.

Egg whites with seafood. Delicious, with a nice, soft texture. Light and silky, the egg whites cradle the seafood’s gentle brininess without overpowering it.

Live prawns steamed with garlic and MSG noodles. Sweet, snappy flesh with a garlicky aroma, and the MSG-slicked noodles catch all the briny juices.

The 2008 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots from Jérôme Chezeaux is a stunning expression of Burgundy, showcasing a rich tapestry of dark cherry, violet, and earthy notes. This Pinot Noir from the heart of Côte de Nuits delivers a silky texture complemented by well-integrated tannins and a lingering finish. It pairs beautifully with roast duck or a luxurious mushroom risotto, enhancing the dish’s umami depths.

Chicken “Knees”, deep-fried with garlic. Delicious and very fried. Extra-crispy and garlicky, with a satisfying crunch.

Chicken braised with sea cucumber. Actually, quite lovely. Tender chicken meets the sea cucumber’s silky, gently briny chew in a glossy, collagen-rich sauce.

Squab. Another Yarom fav. Young pigeon with tender, rosy meat and a clean, gently gamey flavor; often served medium-rare with crisp skin and plenty of succulence. Compact and rich, it feels luxurious without heaviness.

2013 Domaine Dujac Morey-Saint-Denis is a masterclass in Burgundy elegance. This Pinot Noir showcases vibrant red fruit aromatics with subtle notes of earth and spice reflecting its terroir. Its silky tannins and balanced acidity make it a delightful pairing with roasted duck or wild mushrooms.

This vintage embodies complexity and depth, where layers of cherries and raspberries mingle with earthy undertones. The wine’s finesse and structured profile highlight its potential for aging, promising even greater development over the years.

Sichuan-style “spicy” beef. Not that spicy, but some mala. Tender beef with a savory chili aroma and a gently numbing, tingling finish—more tingle than fire.

Yarom’s foot fetish is on display again with wine-braised pig’s feet. Not my thing. The slow braise yields silky, gelatinous skin and tendons with deep, winey savor—great if you’re into that.

Pseudo Peking duck. Very typical of Cantonese ducks. The skin is lacquered and lightly crisp, the seasoning leans soy and five-spice, and the meat tends to be juicier than true Peking duck.

Duck lettuce cups. Crisp lettuce cradles juicy, aromatic duck. Savory with a hint of sweetness and a clean crunch, each bite stays light and lively.

Within the delicate embrace of a crisp, vibrant lettuce leaf lies the exquisite creation known as Lettuce Wraps with Minced Pork and Apples. The dish presents a symphony of earthy browns, punctuated by the soft golden hues of finely diced apples, all enhanced by an inviting glossy sheen from the rich hoisin sauce that delicately coats each ingredient. As the aroma wafts upwards, it tantalizes the senses with a complex medley of savory meats, zesty herbs, and subtle sweetness. Each bite offers the perfect juxtaposition of textures; the tender morsels of pork contrast beautifully with the refreshing crunch of lettuce and the juicy, tender apples, while flavors unfold in layers, revealing sweet, umami undertones peppered with a hint of tanginess that lingers delightfully on the palate.

Braised oxtail in a pumpkin. Like a Rosh Hashanah stew—quite nice. The meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, with a rich, beefy gravy that seeps into the sweet, earthy pumpkin.


Beef with peppers. Very tender and one of my favorite dishes of the night.

Greens with beancurd.

 

Sweet red bean soup. Soft, tender beans in a lightly sweet, earthy broth—comforting and gently thick, with a warm, garnet hue.

Wonde was a very good Cantonese for sure. The second time, I wish we had gotten some more unusual dishes, but it was still great.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more Chinese Food reviews, click here.

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  1. Tony Lau at World Seafood
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  4. Spicy Hunan Home
  5. SGV Sunday – Bund 8
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Cantonese cuisine, Chinese cuisine, far SGV, hedonists, SGV, Sunday Chinese, Wine, Wonde Harbor

Dear Johns

Nov04

Restaurant: Dear Johns

Location: 11208 Culver Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230. 310-881-9288

Date: August 22, 2025

Cuisine: American, Steakhouse

Chef: Hans Röckenwagner and Josiah Citrin

Rating: Tasty, wish we were inside

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Tucked away on Culver Boulevard, Dear Johns in Culver City is a culinary gem that serves up classic American and Steakhouse cuisine with a dash of old Hollywood glamour. The restaurant, which was once a favorite haunt of Frank Sinatra, has been lovingly restored to its mid-century glory, complete with vintage decor, dimmed lighting, and a cozy, intimate atmosphere that transports you back to the golden age of Tinseltown.

The dining concept at Dear Johns is a delightful blend of nostalgia and innovation. The menu, curated by renowned chefs Hans Röckenwagner and Josiah Citrin, features timeless American classics like Prime Rib, Chicken Piccata, and Steak Diane, all prepared with a modern twist. The bar, meanwhile, offers a selection of expertly mixed cocktails that perfectly complement the retro ambiance. But what truly sets Dear Johns apart is its commitment to quality and authenticity. From the locally sourced ingredients to the attentive service, every aspect of the dining experience is designed to make you feel like a star. So, whether you’re a fan of classic Hollywood or simply a food lover in search of a unique dining experience, Dear Johns is a must-visit destination in Culver City.

Chef Hans Röckenwagner and Josiah Citrin are two renowned culinary figures who have made significant contributions to the food industry. Chef Röckenwagner, a German-born chef, is known for his innovative approach to traditional German cuisine. He has been a prominent figure in the Los Angeles culinary scene since the 1980s, when he opened his first restaurant, Röckenwagner. Over the years, he has established several other successful ventures, including 3 Square Café + Bakery and Artisan Breads. His culinary philosophy revolves around using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients to create dishes that are both flavorful and visually appealing.

Josiah Citrin, on the other hand, is a Los Angeles native who has made a name for himself in the world of fine dining. He is the co-owner of the two-Michelin-star restaurant, Melisse, in Santa Monica, and the owner of Charcoal Venice and Dear Johns in Culver City. Citrin’s culinary philosophy is centered on creating a memorable dining experience by combining classic French techniques with modern touches. His achievements include being named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs in 1997 and receiving the prestigious Michelin stars for Melisse. Together, Röckenwagner and Citrin bring a unique blend of culinary expertise and creativity to Dear Johns, offering patrons an unforgettable dining experience.

The inside was gorgeous old school clubby, but it was full and we were stuck outside on the patio. Quiet.

The menu at Dear John’s features a blend of classic American dishes with a contemporary twist, showcasing a variety of hearty starters, well-executed entrées, and comforting sides. Notable highlights include rich beef options, creative seafood preparations, and indulgent additions like truffle mac and cheese.

The Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial from Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta is a stunning representation of Rioja. This 1995 vintage reveals a complex bouquet of dried herbs, ripe red fruits, and a hint of earthiness, accentuated by smooth tannins and remarkable acidity. Perfectly paired with lamb, grilled meats, or even rich stews, this wine showcases the elegance and longevity of classic Spanish winemaking.

Oysters Rockefeller. Okay. Typically rich and buttery, with tender, briny oysters beneath an herbaceous, anise-kissed, gratinéed topping.

Tableside Caesar salad. Crisp romaine tossed in a creamy, garlicky anchovy dressing with grated Parmesan and crunchy croutons, whisked to order for a bright, briny snap.

The salad itself was solid, but not as zesty as I might have liked.

Steak Tartare, also served tableside. Silky and supple, the chilled beef is bright and bracing with a clean, savory finish.

This was pretty awesome and beefy.

The dish, Seed-Laden Crispbread, presents a mosaic of earthy tones, where the golden hue of the base contrasts beautifully with the verdant sheen of roasted pumpkin seeds nestled throughout.

Lobster Thermidor. Excellent. Sweet lobster in a rich mustard-cognac cream, baked until the gratinéed top adds gentle crunch to the tender meat. My favorite dish actually.

Ribeye. Normal. The pepper sauce was good too. Decently juicy with a light char and straightforward beefiness.

Pepper Pork. Interesting.

Creamed Spinach. Good. Silky and rich, with tender leaves in a creamy, garlicky sauce and a whisper of nutmeg.

Sautéed Wild Mushrooms, presents a beautiful mélange of earthy tones.

This Chocolate Cake was to die for. Moist crumb, deep cocoa flavor, and a not-too-sweet frosting made it irresistible.

Sometime I’ll have to go back and eat inside, where the atmosphere is much buzzier. Food was solid but not amazing on this visit.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Dear Johns, Foodie Club, Lobster, Steak, steakhouse, Wine

On the Edge

Nov02

Restaurant: Edgemar

Location: 2435 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405. (424) 252-6844

Date: August 27, 2025

Cuisine: Seafood, Cocktail Bars, New American

Rating: Tasty

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Edgemar in Santa Monica is a culinary gem that offers a unique dining experience, combining the best of Seafood, Cocktail Bars, and New American cuisine. Located at 2435 Main St, this restaurant is a haven for food enthusiasts who appreciate the art of fine dining. The menu is a testament to the chef’s creativity and passion, featuring a variety of dishes that are as visually stunning as they are delicious. From the freshest seafood to innovative New American dishes, every item on the menu is designed to tantalize your taste buds and leave you craving for more.

The atmosphere at Edgemar is as captivating as the food. The restaurant boasts a chic, modern interior that perfectly complements the innovative dishes served. The ambiance is relaxed and inviting, making it the perfect spot for a casual lunch, a romantic dinner, or a night out with friends. The cocktail bar is a highlight, offering a range of handcrafted cocktails that are the perfect accompaniment to your meal.

What sets Edgemar apart is its commitment to quality and innovation. The restaurant sources the freshest ingredients, ensuring that every dish is bursting with flavor. The chef’s creativity shines through in the menu, with each dish offering a unique twist on classic flavors. Whether you’re a seafood lover or a fan of New American cuisine, Edgemar is a dining experience you won’t want to miss.

The menu at Edgemar features a diverse selection of dishes, emphasizing small plates that showcase fresh seafood and inventive flavors, along with vibrant salads and hearty hand-held options. The food styles reflect a contemporary approach, blending global influences with an emphasis on high-quality ingredients and creative presentations.

Bread Service. Miso Honey Butter | Flatbread. Very good bread, actually. The flatbread is warm and slightly chewy with a light char, and the miso-honey butter hits a savory-sweet umami note.

Shrimp Toast. Milk Bread | Ginger | Scallion | Yuzu Tartar | Ikura. Crispy and delicious.

Wontons. Pork & shrimp | Szechuan | chili oil. Surprisingly spicy. Good. Tender, slippery wrappers hold a juicy pork-and-shrimp filling, and the chili oil brings a fragrant, tingling heat.

Stracciatella. House Pulled Cheese | Chili Diablo | Local Honey | Peach | Flatbread. Sweet but delicious. Creamy and gently elastic, the cool cheese meets a flicker of chili heat and floral honey on soft, warm flatbread.

Salmon Sesame. Too much sesame oil flavor. The fish itself is silky and fresh, but the sesame oil overwhelms the salmon’s natural sweetness.

Tomato Tonnato. Munak Ranch Tomatoes | Tonnato | Chorizo Crumb | Herbs. Ripe, juicy tomatoes meet a silky, savory tonnato; the chorizo crumb adds smoky crunch, and the herbs keep it bright.

Caesar Salad. Buttermilk Caesar dressing | herb crust | boquerones | Parmesan. Solid. Creamy, tangy dressing meets a crunchy herb crust and briny boquerones, rounded by nutty Parmesan for a clean, classic bite.

Karaage Chicken with Yuzu Aioli. Crisp, craggy coating over juicy chicken, with the yuzu-laced aioli bringing bright citrus and creamy lift.

Chili Mushroom Noodle. Lo Mein | Maitake | Oyster Mushroom | Garlic Butter | Chili Oil. These were excellent. Springy lo mein with meaty mushrooms, a lush garlic-butter gloss, and a warm chili-oil kick—savory, earthy, and gently spicy.

Short rib rendang. Good, but not nearly as good as at Cassia. Deeply spiced coconut reduction with tender, pull-apart beef and a dark, caramelized finish.

Garlic Butter Roast Chicken. Meh. Classic roasted bird with a rich, garlicky butter baste and crackly skin, but the flavor can feel a bit one-note and heavy without some acid or herbs to lift it.

Grilled Fish Burger. Expect a flaky, moist fillet with gentle char and clean ocean sweetness on a soft, toasted bun. Simple, satisfying, and light.

Smash Burger. Not bad. Crisp, lacy edges with a caramelized sear and a juicy center, tucked in a soft bun with melty cheese—simple and satisfying.

Fries. Golden, crisp-edged and fluffy inside, they deliver a salty, comforting crunch in every bite.

Pandan Rice Pudding. This I liked. Silky and lightly sweet, with tender grains and pandan’s grassy-vanilla perfume. A soothing, coconut-tinged comfort with a pale green hue.

Chocolate Pot de Crème. A silky, spoon-coating custard with deep, bittersweet cocoa and a glossy surface—minimal garnish, maximal indulgence.

Ube Cheesecake. Creamy and gently sweet, it showcases ube’s earthy, vanilla-like notes and a striking violet hue, often set over a buttery crust.

Overall, this was a very varied menu with some delicious dishes. They were super nice and wine friendly too.

Clos des Lambrays, Morey-Saint-Denis, 2003, Red Burgundy – This exceptional Grand Cru showcases rich, ripe cherry flavors intertwined with earthy complexities and a hint of spice. The wine’s velvety tannins and long finish make it a stunning pairing for roasted duck or wild mushroom risotto.

Chambolle-Musigny, 2009, Red Burgundy – The elegant allure of this bottle presents floral notes alongside succulent red fruit and an undercurrent of minerality. Its graceful structure and freshness make it an ideal companion for dishes like grilled salmon or herb-crusted lamb.

St. Aubin 1er Cru, 2014

The 2013 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles is a stunning expression of Burgundy, showcasing the meticulous craftsmanship of its producer. Originating from the prestigious Puligny-Montrachet region, this Chardonnay exudes elegance with its vibrant acidity and notes of green apple, lemon zest, and subtle oak. Pair alongside grilled lobster or creamy risotto to enhance its rich, layered flavors.

Domaine Henri Boillot’s 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles hails from the illustrious Côte de Beaune region of Burgundy. This white Burgundy showcases a refined elegance with notes of ripe pear, white flowers, and a hint of toasted hazelnut. Ideal for pairing with seared scallops or rich, creamy pasta dishes, it perfectly complements the intricacies of French cuisine.

The 2007 Comtes de Champagne by Taittinger, hailing from the Champagne region, is a stunning expression of luxury and finesse. This vintage showcases a blend of predominantly Chardonnay grapes sourced from Grand Cru vineyards, offering a harmonious balance of vibrant acidity and rich, creamy textures. With its notes of ripe apple, citrus zest, and delicate brioche, this elegant sparkling wine pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, especially buttery lobster or fresh oysters.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Tagged as: Edgemar, Foodie Club, Santa Monica, Wine

Anarbagh Eats

Oct30

Restaurant: Anarbagh [1, 2]

Location: 22721 Ventura Blvd, Woodland Hills, CA 91364. (818) 224-3929

Date: August 15, 2025

Cuisine: Indian

Rating: Meh old fashioned Indian

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Anabagh in Woodland Hills is an Old School Indian place that serves up an array of “classic” Indian cuisine. This dinner was setup by George. I went here once by myself and wasn’t impressed. I wasn’t impressed again.

The atmosphere at Anabagh is as old school as the food. The decor is a mix of 70s and 80s Indian elements, creating a warm valley ambiance. The soft glow of the lanterns, the intricate murals on the walls, and the soothing Indian music playing in the background all contribute to a dining experience that is both comfortable and (kitschy) exotic.

The dish, Fresh Garden Salad, immediately captivates with its vibrant palette of ruby-red tomatoes, crisp pale cucumbers, and tender white onions, all generously flecked with emerald-green cilantro. The aroma is a refreshing symphony of garden freshness, with the subtle sweetness of ripe tomatoes intertwining with the invigorating scent of freshly chopped herbs. Each bite reveals a delightful contrast in texture—the succulent juiciness of the tomatoes juxtaposed against the satisfying crunch of cucumbers. As the flavors unfold, a mild tanginess emerges, perfectly harmonizing the natural sweetness with a hint of earthiness from the onions, culminating in a refreshing medley that dances on the palate, celebrating the simple pleasures of fresh produce.

Fried appetizer plates. Crisp, golden bites with a satisfying crunch and a savory, salty hit—perfect for sharing.

Yogurt and mango chutney. Cool, creamy tang meets sweet, gently spiced fruit, perfect as a refreshing dip or side. Silky yogurt softens the chutney’s bright, jammy punch.

Naan. A tandoor-baked flatbread with a lightly blistered surface, a tender crumb, and pleasantly chewy edges, subtly yeasty with a hint of smoke and butter. Great for scooping up curries or enjoying warm on its own.

Cheesy naan. This was rather good, but we just had it forever. The bread was warm and chewy with blistered edges, and the melted cheese was buttery and nicely stretchy.

This was one of those meals where we waited for like 90 minutes with wave after wave of carbs. Eventually the curries came:

CTM. Bland and sweet.

Lamb vindaloo. Better, but not by much. Typically fiery and tangy, with tender lamb in a vinegar-chili gravy and a deep red gloss.

Experience the exquisite harmony of Pulao, a fragrant medley of basmati rice shimmering in hues of pale gold and verdant green. Each grain is cloaked in a delicate herby embrace, a testament to the meticulous layering of fresh cilantro and mint that dances on the palate. As the warm steam rises, it carries the earthiness of spices and the bright notes of lime, invoking a sensory invitation that is impossible to resist. The texture is an elegant interplay—each bite yielding a tender al dente rice, kissed with a subtle crispness that rekindles memories of sun-drenched afternoons. In this culinary masterpiece, the refined flavors create a lingering embrace, inviting you to savor each mouthful of aromatic bliss.

The dish, Aloo Gobi, presents an inviting tableau of vibrant golds and rich oranges, emphasizing the earthiness of its cauliflower and potato components. A fragrant bouquet wafts upwards, layers of cumin, coriander, and a hint of turmeric mingling with fresh cilantro, captivating the senses. Each morsel offers a delightful contrast; the cauliflower remains tender yet resilient, while the potatoes yield effortlessly, infused with the piquant sauce. The gentle warmth on the palate is balanced by the subtle acidity of tomatoes, culminating in a dish that is both comforting and exhilarating, beckoning for another spoonful.

The dish, Gobi Masala, presents a vibrant tapestry of saffron-hued cauliflower nestled in a tangy tomato sauce, its surface kissed by flecks of emerald cilantro that dance like confetti atop the mound. An intoxicating aroma wafts from the bowl, a heady fusion of cumin and coriander that beckons the senses with promises of warmth and spice. Each tender morsel offers a delicate crunch, yielding to a silken sauce that envelops the palate, striking a harmonious balance between the mellow sweetness of the tomato and the subtle earthiness of the cauliflower. The gentle heat lingers, a whisper of chili that invites the next savory bite, ensuring a lingering embrace of flavor long after the last forkful is savored.

The dish, Vegetable Biryani, presents a vibrant medley of saffron-hued rice, flecked with verdant cilantro and delicately textured nuggets of seasonal vegetables. The aroma tantalizes the senses, offering a bouquet of warm spices and earthiness, inviting the diner to delve into its depths. Each bite reveals the tender grains, perfectly infused with layers of cardamom and bay leaf, while the subtle crunch of green beans and the sweetness of cauliflower bring a delightful contrast to the overall experience. The nuanced flavors speak of long-simmered tradition, leaving a lingering warmth that evokes the rich tapestry of culinary heritage.

Saag Paneer that was halfway decent, but very sweet. Creamy and velvety as expected, though the sugariness overshadowed the usual earthy spinach and warm spice balance.

A korma. Creamy and gently spiced, it typically has a silky yogurt- or cream-based sauce enriched with nuts and warm aromatics, cradling tender meat or vegetables with a mellow heat.

The dish, Dal Makhani, presents a vibrant tapestry of golden hues, inviting with a rich, earthy aroma laced with hints of smokiness and warming spices. The texture is luxuriously creamy, as each spoonful reveals the tender lentils melded seamlessly with a velvety sauce. On the palate, the flavors unfold with a harmonious interplay of buttery richness and subtle undertones of cumin, while fresh cilantro adds a bright, herbaceous finish, elevating this comforting classic to an exquisite culinary experience. Cough cough.

Finally, some tandoori. Charred at the edges yet juicy within, it brings smoky heat from the tandoor and a tangy yogurt-spice marinade that paints it a vivid crimson.

Captivating in its presentation, the dish Bhindi Masala unfurls a vibrant tapestry of deep emerald okra, sun-kissed tomatoes, and verdant bell peppers, harmoniously mingling under a crown of fragrant cilantro. Well, at least it should have. It was ok, very salty.

Rice pudding wasn’t too bad. Creamy and lightly sweet, with tender rice and a soft hint of cinnamon.

Overall, this was a fun night, but the food is meh meh meh. It’s all either salty or sweet with very little variation or intensity of flavor. The colors are bright, but the spices do not stand out. I’m not sure why. It’s all pretty old fashioned. The ordering wasn’t perfect either.

 

The 2013 Château de Beaucastel from the renowned Famille Perrin is a classic representation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Cultivated in the southern Rhône Valley, this blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah showcases rich aromas of ripe black fruits, subtle herbs, and a hint of spice. The wine boasts a full-bodied texture with velvety tannins, making it an excellent pairing for roasted lamb or hearty stews, enhancing the gastronomic experience with its complex flavor profile.

Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois, from the Champagne region of France, exemplifies elegance with its 2012 vintage. This cuvée is revealed through rich layers of ripe apple, subtle brioche, and delicate hints of toasted oak, showcasing a masterful balance of fruit and depth. It pairs exquisitely with seafood, particularly oysters, as well as creamy pasta dishes, enhancing their flavors harmoniously.

The Pinot Noir from Domaine Tempier in Bandol, a renowned region in Provence, presents a captivating 2019 vintage, characterized by a beautifully structured profile. With notes of dark cherry, wild herbs, and a touch of spice, this wine offers a vibrant acidity and full-bodied mouthfeel. It complements robust dishes like grilled lamb and ratatouille, bringing out the richness of Mediterranean cuisine.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Tagged as: Anarbagh, hedonists, Indian cuisine, Wine

Spicy Hunan Home

Oct23

Restaurant: xianglalou

Location: 500 West Valley Blvd, Alhambra, CA 91803. (626) 481-1290

Date: July 27, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese

Rating: Spicy, salty, and delicious

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Xianglalou, nestled in the heart of Alhambra, CA, is a culinary gem that offers an authentic Chinese dining experience. Located at 500 West Valley Blvd, this restaurant is a haven for food enthusiasts who crave the rich, diverse flavors of traditional Chinese cuisine. The menu is a delightful journey through China’s culinary landscape, featuring a variety of dishes that showcase the country’s regional flavors and cooking techniques.

The vibrant exterior, adorned with bright banners and fluttering flags, invites you into a bustling atmosphere that hints at an authentic culinary adventure waiting within, while the welcoming design details set the stage for an unforgettable dining experience infused with warmth and cultural flair.

The dining concept at Xianglalou is centered around creating a warm, inviting atmosphere where guests can enjoy a leisurely meal. The interior is tastefully decorated, with subtle nods to Chinese culture and aesthetics, creating a serene ambiance that complements the food. The restaurant’s commitment to authenticity extends beyond the menu, with a dining experience designed to mirror the hospitality and warmth of a Chinese home.

What sets Xianglalou apart is its dedication to quality and authenticity. Each dish is meticulously prepared using fresh, high-quality ingredients, ensuring that every bite is a testament to the rich culinary heritage of China. The restaurant’s signature dishes, such as the Peking Duck and Dim Sum, have garnered rave reviews for their exquisite flavors and presentation. Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or a curious diner looking to explore Chinese cuisine, Xianglalou offers an unforgettable dining experience that will leave you craving for more.

Bathed in soft light and adorned with traditional murals that evoke a sense of nostalgia.

The menu is enormous and has nice pictures.

Preserved egg and pepper grind. Very savory. Silky, custardy yolk and a springy, translucent white meet a clean pepper heat that lifts the funk without overpowering it.

Spicy fern root noodles in vinegar. Delicious and tangy. Slippery, springy strands with a clean, vinegary snap and a gentle chili warmth.

Squid and Shrimp in an Iron Pot. Tender-chewy squid and sweet, briny shrimp served sizzling; the iron pot keeps the heat and adds a gentle sear, concentrating their clean ocean flavors.

Dried pot bullfrog.

Steamed live fish with chopped chili peppers. Really great. Tender, silky flesh with a clean sweetness, lifted by the bright heat of the chopped chili peppers.

Braised duck with green pepper. Nice braised flavor.

Fried pork belly with crispy bamboo shoots. Great texture.

Stir-Fried Bacon with Leeks. Smoky, salty bacon meets sweet, tender leeks, crisp-edged and juicy with a light wok char.

Dessert on the house. They thought we were full at 50%, haha. A light, sweet finish—silky and not too heavy—made it a kind capstone without tipping us over.

Minced Pork with Pickled Green Beans. Juicy, savory pork crumbles meet the bright snap and tang of pickled long beans, with a deep, wok-kissed umami. The texture is nubbly and crisp-tender, especially good over steamed rice.

Gizzard and preserved veggies. Chewy and salty.

Steamed Hunan-style pork belly with preserved vegetables. Great. Tender, layered slices with melting fat; the preserved greens add savory tang and gentle funk, keeping it rich yet balanced.

The vibrant Spicy Cucumber Salad showcases an enchanting palette of emerald and jade hues, flecked with the fiery crimson of sliced chili peppers. The dish exudes a refreshing aroma, infused with the earthy undertones of garlic and the sharp tang of vinegar. Each piece of cucumber presents a crisp texture, yielding with a satisfying crunch, while the nuanced heat of the spices harmonizes beautifully with the cucumbers’ natural coolness. This playful symphony of flavors offers a delightful contrast, leaving a lingering, zesty finish that beckons for another bite.

Sliced beef, spam, fish, and other oddities in chili oil. Really nice version of this. The chili oil is bright and fragrant, with a gentle numbing heat that clings to tender slices while keeping the mix of textures lively.

Home-style tofu. Pleasant brown sauce. Soft, silky tofu in a savory, soy-forward gravy—comforting and spoonable.

Cumin lamb. Fragrant with toasted cumin and chiles, usually seared so the edges crisp while the lamb stays tender. Savory, spicy, and a little smoky.

The owner GAVE us a bottle of wine!

It’s always great to have another dinner friendly Hunan place — and this place is good with a big menu! Plus they were very friendly.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: chilis, Chinese cuisine, Hunan, pickled peppers, SGV, Wine

Armour Weho

Oct15

Restaurant: Amour

Location: 8715 Beverly Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90048. (424) 431-6717

Date: July 16, 2025

Cuisine: French Bistro

Rating: Tasty

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Amour in Hollywood is a cute French Bistro in a city with diminishing French options.

The courtyard is super gorgeous.

In this charming venue, a gathering of diners savors the ambiance and exquisite dishes crafted by the talented chef, each bite a testament to culinary artistry.

The menu at Amour features a sophisticated array of French-inspired dishes, with a strong emphasis on seafood and fresh produce. Diners can expect elegantly crafted hors d’oeuvres, hearty pasta dishes, and refined entrées, all showcasing rich flavors and high-quality ingredients.

Escargots gratinés. Broiled garlic-butter snails. Buttery and garlicky, of course. Tender with a gentle chew, and the gratin adds a golden, toasty edge.

Boeuf confit. Confit beef in red wine & sautéed vegetables. Really delicious, like a crispy beef stew. Tender inside with a crackly edge and a deep, wine-rich savor.

In the realm of comfort food, the French Fries stand as a timeless icon, their golden-hued exterior crisp and inviting against the backdrop of a deep, dark bowl. Each slender fry crackles as you pick it up, revealing a tender, fluffy interior that beckons with whispers of unadulterated potato essence. The aroma is a delightful medley of nutty undertones and sizzling oil, awakening the senses with each bite. As you indulge, the ephemeral crunch gives way to a savory warmth, accentuated by a delicate sprinkle of sea salt that dances on the palate, inviting you to savor the simplicity and elegance of this quintessential dish.

Fried Frog Legs. Served with garlic-herb aioli. They looked very fried but were extremely meaty and delicious. Crisp, golden exterior with tender, mild flesh; the aioli adds a bright, garlicky richness.

Beef Tartare was prepped tableside. Cool and silky, with clean, bright flavors that let the beef shine.

Tartare de boeuf. 8 oz appetizer beef tartare. Typically silky and cool, with a clean, bright beef flavor and a lightly seasoned, tender bite.

Tagliatelle au homard. Creamy lobster sauce and lobster. Rich and delicious. Silky pasta ribbons catch the sauce, with sweet, briny lobster threaded through each bite.

Pasta alla carbonara. Egg yolk, pecorino, guanciale, and black pepper. This was a great pasta. Nice bite and strong pepper/cheese flavor.

Moules marinières. Served with fries. Plump, tender mussels in a garlicky white-wine broth—briny and perfect for dunking the fries.

Magret de canard rôti. Roasted duck breast with a rum–orange sauce and carrot purée. Crisp, bronzed skin gives way to rosy, tender meat; the citrusy, boozy glaze lifts the richness, while the silky purée adds gentle sweetness.

The menu at Amour showcases an elegant selection of desserts, highlighting traditional French pastries and inventive combinations. Diners can indulge in classic treats such as Crème Brûlée and Profiteroles, alongside unique offerings like the Coupe Belle-Hélène, emphasizing fresh fruits and rich creams.

L’Amour. Chocolate mousse, a creamy vanilla heart, crispy hazelnut biscuit. Silky mousse contrasts with the crisp hazelnut bite and a soft vanilla center—refined yet comforting.

The 2014 Saint-Aubin En Remilly from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey exemplifies the elegance of white Burgundy, with its bright acidity and layered notes of green apple, citrus, and flint. This wine is beautifully structured, making it a wonderful companion to grilled lobster or a delicate goat cheese salad, elevating both the dish and the wine.

La Pialade 2012, a Côtes du Rhône offering from the winemakers at Domaine de Saint-Just, showcases a vibrant blend of Grenache and Syrah. Its medium body and approachable tannins reveal flavors of ripe cherry, black pepper, and herbs de Provence, making it a versatile pairing for hearty dishes like lamb stew or barbecue ribs.

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes from Louis Jadot is a quintessential Pinot Noir

The host brought us not only this lovely yellow Chartreuse, but some d’Yquem! Yellow Chartreuse’s mellow, honeyed herbal notes meet d’Yquem’s opulent apricot-and-marmalade richness for a silky, golden pairing.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Tagged as: Armour, Foodie Club, West Hollywood, Wine

Amazing Alba

Oct12

Restaurant: Alba

Location: 8451 Melrose Ave, West Hollywood, CA 90048. (424) 484-3992

Date: July 9, 2025

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Another great New York transplant

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Alba, nestled in the heart of Beverly Hills at 8451 Melrose Ave, is a culinary gem that offers an authentic Italian dining experience. The restaurant’s concept is rooted in the traditional Italian philosophy of simplicity and quality, serving dishes that are crafted with the freshest ingredients and a profound respect for the rich culinary heritage of Italy. The menu is a delightful journey through the diverse regions of Italy, featuring classic dishes that are prepared with a contemporary twist, making Alba a must-visit for any Italian food aficionado.

As you approach ALBA, the playful neon lettering juxtaposed against lush greenery invites a sense of curiosity, hinting at a vibrant dining experience where contemporary design meets flavorful exploration.

The atmosphere at Alba is as captivating as its cuisine. The restaurant exudes an elegant yet relaxed vibe, with a tastefully designed interior that blends modern aesthetics with rustic Italian charm. The warm lighting, comfortable seating, and the soft hum of conversation create an inviting ambiance that makes every meal a memorable experience.

What sets Alba apart is its commitment to authenticity. Every dish is a testament to the culinary traditions of Italy, prepared with passion and precision. The restaurant also boasts an impressive wine list, featuring a curated selection of Italian wines that perfectly complement the flavors of the cuisine. Whether you’re looking for a romantic dinner, a business lunch, or a casual meal with friends, Alba offers an unforgettable Italian dining experience in the heart of Beverly Hills.

The menu from Alba features a refined selection of Italian-inspired dishes, primarily showcasing an array of artisanal pastas and expertly prepared mains. Highlights include innovative pasta options, such as black truffle agnolotti and a variety of seafood and meat dishes, emphasizing freshness and bold flavors.

The Capichera VT, produced by DueMilaVenti, hails from the scenic region of Sardinia, Italy. This 2018 vintage is a blend of Vermentino and other native varietals, showcasing a bright, mineral-driven profile. Its refreshing acidity and notes of citrus and white flowers make it an exquisite companion for seafood dishes, particularly grilled fish or shellfish.

With a focus on sustainability and terroir, Capichera’s dedication to quality is evident in this expressive white wine. The bouquet is inviting, revealing nuances of stone fruit and Mediterranean herbs, while the palate offers a crisp and harmonious finish, ideal for summer gatherings or elegant dining experiences.

Accanto Salad. Avocado, cashew. Creamy avocado plays against the buttery crunch of cashew for a fresh, clean, satisfying bite.

Tomato and Cucumber. weiser melon, yuzu kosho. Very bright and delicious.

Squash Blossoms. Porcini-lemon mousse. Excellent, particularly the aioli-like sauce. Delicate and lightly crisp, with a creamy, woodsy-citrus center that the sauce makes even richer.

Hamachi Crudo. Weiser melon, colatura vinaigrette. Sweet and tangy. Silky, cool slices of yellowtail meet crisp, juicy melon, with a gentle saline twang that brightens the plate.

Toro Tartare. Pine nuts, Fresno chile. Great. Silky, fatty tuna belly meets a gentle Fresno heat, with pine nuts bringing a buttery crunch and a clean, ocean-sweet finish.

Shrimp Trapanese. Marcona almonds. Sweet, briny shrimp in a bright, garlicky Sicilian-style sauce, with the almonds adding a buttery, delicate crunch.

The 2006 Poggio al Vento by Col d’Orcia is a stunning expression of Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany, showcasing a richness and depth that define the vintage. This wine is crafted from Sangiovese grapes, exhibiting aromas of dark cherry, leather, and tobacco, layered with subtle spice notes. Its structured tannins and bright acidity make it a sublime pairing for braised meats and aged cheeses, enhancing the overall dining experience.

As a Riserva, this wine reflects meticulous aging, allowing flavors to integrate beautifully. The finish is long and elegant, leaving hints of earthiness and floral notes that linger on the palate, making it an exceptional choice for collectors and connoisseurs alike.

Agnolotti. Black truffle fonduta. Soft and delicious.

Sea Shells. basil pesto. Amazing pairing with the vermentino.

Gluten-free Gnocchi with Butter and Sage. Tender little pillows with a gentle chew, coated in warm butter and fragrant sage—simple, aromatic, and comforting.

Sea urchin special. Custardy and briny-sweet, it melts on the tongue with a clean ocean finish. Bright, sunset-orange lobes look as lush as they taste.

Bentagliati. Duck ragu, stone fruits. Rustic, irregular pasta folds cradle a rich, silky duck sauce, while the stone fruit adds a bright, lightly sweet lift that keeps it lively.

Rigatoni “smoked” al limone. Loved this one. Bright and lemon-forward with a subtle smoky note, the glossy sauce hugs the al dente ridges—zesty, simple, and satisfying.

Branzino al forno. Citrus, herbs. Oven-roasted and aromatic, with flaky, tender flesh and lightly crisp skin; the citrus lifts the fish’s sweetness while the herbs add a clean, savory finish.

Lamb Scottadito. Rosemary, mustard. Juicy, char-kissed chops with fragrant rosemary and a bright mustard bite—simple, finger-licking, and satisfying.

Two-tone mousse. Light, airy layers with contrasting flavors—often dark and white chocolate—make for a clean, striking look and balanced sweetness. Silky and creamy, it melts quickly on the tongue.

Glistening in a silvery bowl, the dish of golden raspberries entices with their sun-drenched hue, a warm golden blush that hints at their luscious sweetness. As you lean closer, a gentle aroma wafts forth, a captivating fusion of floral notes and sun-ripened earthiness, inviting you to savor each delicate morsel. The texture is a sublime interplay of velvety smoothness and a slight, satisfying pop, releasing an explosion of juicy nectar that dances on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of sweet and tangy, reminiscent of a warm summer day, leaving a lingering hint of citrus that beckons for another taste. Very sweet and a touch tangy.

A delicious almond semifreddo. Silky and lightly airy, it melts cool on the tongue with gentle sweetness and a soft toasted-almond aroma.

The Capichera VT, a standout from the Gallura region of Sardinia, showcases the region’s unique Vermentino grape. The 2021 vintage delivers a crisp, mineral-driven profile with notes of citrus and white flowers, complemented by a refreshing acidity. This delightful white pairs beautifully with seafood, grilled vegetables, or light pasta dishes.

Col d’Orcia’s Poggio al Vento, a 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, exemplifies the elegance and depth of Sangiovese. With rich aromas of dark cherry, leather, and earthy undertones, this wine reveals a velvety palate accented by refined tannins. Perfectly suited for pairing with roasted meats, game, or aged cheeses, it embodies the essence of Tuscan winemaking.

Overall, we really liked Alba. It’s in the same vein as Marea, being another New York transplant, just slightly less seafood oriented. The outside space is quite lovely.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Alba, Foodie Club, Italian cuisine, pasta, West Hollywood, Wine

Kato 2025 part 2

Oct10

Restaurant: Kato  [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

Location: 777 Alameda St, Bldg 1 Ste 114, Los Angeles, CA 90021. (213) 797-5770

Date: July 3, 2025

Cuisine: Taiwanese, Seafood

Chef: Jon Yao

Rating: Awesome as usual

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Nestled in the heart of downtown Los Angeles, Kato DTLA is a culinary gem that serves up an exquisite blend of Taiwanese and seafood cuisine. The restaurant, located at 777 Alameda St, Bldg 1 Ste 114, is a testament to the innovative spirit of LA’s dining scene, offering a unique dining concept that marries traditional Taiwanese flavors with the freshness of local seafood.

The atmosphere at Kato DTLA is a harmonious blend of minimalism and warmth. The understated elegance of the decor, with its muted tones and clean lines, allows the vibrant colors and textures of the food to take center stage. The open kitchen adds a dynamic element to the dining experience, allowing guests to witness the culinary artistry in action.

What sets Kato DTLA apart is its commitment to quality and creativity. The menu is a rotating showcase of the chef’s ingenuity, with each dish telling a story of heritage and innovation. From the delicate balance of flavors in their seafood dishes to the bold, comforting notes of their Taiwanese offerings, every meal at Kato DTLA is a gastronomic journey that leaves a lasting impression. This dedication to excellence has not gone unnoticed, with the restaurant earning a coveted Michelin star, making it a must-visit destination for food lovers in Los Angeles.
Chef Jon Yao is the culinary mastermind behind Kato, a renowned restaurant located in downtown Los Angeles (DTLA). Born and raised in San Gabriel Valley, Yao developed a passion for cooking at a young age, inspired by his Taiwanese heritage and the diverse culinary landscape of Los Angeles. After honing his skills at several Michelin-starred restaurants, including Benu in San Francisco and Coi in Paris, Yao returned to Los Angeles to open Kato in 2016.

Yao’s philosophy in the kitchen is deeply rooted in his cultural background, with a focus on creating dishes that are a fusion of Taiwanese and Californian cuisine. He is known for his innovative approach to traditional dishes, using locally sourced ingredients to create unique flavor profiles. Yao’s dedication to his craft has not gone unnoticed; in 2019, he was named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs and Kato was awarded a Michelin star. Despite these accolades, Yao remains humble and committed to his original vision of bringing a fresh perspective to Taiwanese cuisine.

We hit this up for “0th dinner” (dinner before the dinner).

Seafood tower. Chilled and glistening on ice, it’s a briny-sweet showcase with a clean, oceanic snap in each bite. Bright, refreshing, and all about pristine texture.

The ceviches were the weakest part. They tasted underseasoned and a bit watery, missing the bright citrus snap and clean brininess that make ceviche pop.

Then back to the real action at Kato:

The menu at Kato showcases an innovative blend of contemporary and traditional flavors, highlighting seasonal ingredients with a focus on seafood, preserved elements, and creative presentations. Dishes range from unique appetizers like sea urchin and preserved peppers to intriguing desserts featuring combinations such as strawberry and white chocolate.

The Comtes de Champagne, produced by Taittinger, hails from the prestigious Champagne region of France. This 2006 vintage, a pure Chardonnay expression, showcases exceptional finesse and elegance. With its vibrant acidity and notes of citrus and white flowers, it opens up beautifully to reveal complex layers of brioche and minerality, making it an excellent pairing for seafood dishes, particularly oysters and scallops.

Duò Jiāo Yú (Fish with Pickled Chiles). Preserved pepper, coriander. A Hunan classic with bright, fermented chile tang and a gentle, lingering heat; the fish stays tender and silky, while the coriander adds a fresh, citrusy lift.

LUÓBO GĀN (Dried Radish). RADISH, DAIKON, GINGER BUD.

The culinary masterpiece known as Floral Essence Gelée presents a delicate pink bloom, artfully suspended within a crystalline vessel, reminiscent of nature’s finest moments. As the dish is approached, a fragrant bouquet of jasmine and citrus wafts through the air, inviting one to indulge their senses. The translucent petals, remarkably smooth and cool, yield to gentle pressure, releasing a symphony of ethereal flavors that oscillate between sweet and tangy, while the underpinning infusion of herbaceous olive oil adds a subtle depth. Each spoonful sings with a soft, silky texture, as the vibrant gel glides elegantly across the palate, leaving a lingering echo of floral complexity and refreshing brightness that mesmerizes with every bite.

LIÁNG MIÀN (Cold Noodles). SESAME, CUCUMBER, WASABI. Silky, nutty, and refreshingly cool, with crisp cucumber against springy noodles and a gentle wasabi lift.

Yóutiáo (fried dough stick). Sea urchin, ham, caviar. Crisp and airy, the dough stick’s light crunch meets uni’s custardy brine, savory ham, and caviar’s clean pop for a rich, salty bite.

The 2014 Keller Riesling von der Fels hails from the esteemed Rheinhessen region of Germany. This dynamic white wine showcases a vibrant acidity balanced by pronounced minerality, revealing notes of ripe stone fruits and citrus zest. Best enjoyed alongside fresh seafood dishes or Asian cuisine, it enhances the flavor profile with its refreshing finish.

This exceptional Riesling reflects the meticulous craftsmanship of the Keller winery, known for its dedication to terroir and tradition. The vintage highlights the lush fruit characteristics while maintaining an elegant structure, making it a perfect companion for light salads and grilled vegetables.

 

YÚDÙ GĒNG (Fish Maw Soup). Custard, caviar, fish maw. Silky and lightly thickened, the fish maw and custard bring a supple, collagen-rich glide, while the caviar adds a briny pop and luxe salinity.

Suāncài Yú (fish with pickled vegetables). Soured vegetables, preserved peppers. A bracingly tangy, aromatic broth cradles tender fish, with the lively snap of pickled greens and gentle heat rounding it out.

The 2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault-Santenots du Milieu Premier Cru is a striking expression of the Côte de Beaune, showcasing the harmony of ripe citrus fruits and mineral undertones. With its creamy texture and vibrant acidity, this wine pairs beautifully with rich seafood dishes, such as butter-poached lobster or grilled scallops, enhancing both the dish and the wine’s complexity.

With its elegant structure and expressive bouquet, this vintage offers notes of white flowers, almonds, and a subtle hint of oak, making it a perfect companion for creamy pasta or a classic coq au vin. The beautiful balance of acidity and richness ensures a delightful experience from start to finish.

JĪN SHĀ (Golden Sand). Atlantic Lobster, SALTED EGG, HABANADA, CURRY LEAF. A classic golden-sand treatment: salted egg yolk creates a rich, sandy crumble over sweet lobster, while habanada adds gentle floral fruit and curry leaf brings a citrusy lift. Expect a golden, nubbly sheen and succulent meat.

ĀNCHŪN (Hidden Spring). QUAIL, SOY PASTE, STONEFRUIT. Delicate, gently gamey quail meets savory depth from soy paste, lifted by bright, sweet-tart stone fruit; expect tender meat with a clean, polished finish.

Quail legs. Petite, gently gamy morsels with crackling skin and juicy dark meat—small in size but big on savory depth.

ZĬ RÁN YÁNG (Cumin Lamb). CUMIN, PRESERVED ALLIUM, MAGAO. Aromatic and warming, with tender lamb perfumed by toasty cumin, a gentle preserved-allium funk, and a bright, citrusy magao lift.

The dish, butter brioche bun, presents a stunning golden-brown hue, its craggy surface glistening with a delicate sheen, hinting at the richness within. As it rests on a glass plate, the pinched edges reveal an inviting aroma—warm notes of caramelized butter intertwine with a subtle sweetness reminiscent of freshly baked pastry. Each bite unveils an airy, tender crumb that cradles a luscious, melting softness, releasing a cascade of flavors that dance between nutty and sweet, enhanced by a whisper of sea salt that perfectly balances the warmth. The experience is both comforting and exquisite, making it a sublime prelude to the meal that follows.

Served with an air of elegance, the dessert known as Lychee Panna Cotta unveils a captivating symphony of textures and flavors. Its pale ivory form is crowned with a delicate dusting of pale pink, inviting intrigue as it rests in a glossy pool of fragrant lychee coulis. The aroma wafts lightly, perfumed with whispers of tropical sweetness, while the panna cotta itself is silken, yielding effortlessly to the spoon. As the first bite melts luxuriously on the palate, it reveals a nuanced dance of floral notes and creamy decadence, harmonized by the fruity tang of the coulis that lifts the dish into a realm of sophisticated pleasure, leaving a lingering, refreshing trace of exotic delight.

CĂOMÉI (Strawberry). Strawberry, rhubarb, white chocolate. A bright, tart-sweet interplay where rhubarb lifts the berries and creamy white chocolate softens the edges—fresh and springlike.

Liúshā Bāo (Molten Sand Bun / Salted Egg Yolk Lava Bun). Cream puff, salted egg, brown sugar. A soft, pillowy bun that opens to a glossy salted-egg lava center—salty-sweet and custardy, with a warm brown sugar finish.

Take home bite.

Another amazing (if expensive) tasting menu down the gullet!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Kato 2025 part 1
  2. Kato West Final Act
  3. Kato West Penultimate
  4. Kato DTLA
  5. Providence Chef’s Table 2025
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Asian cuisine, Foodie Club, Kato, Kato DTLA, Wine

Happy Together

Oct07

Restaurant: Happy Together

Location: 9920 Valley Blvd, El Monte, CA 91731. (626) 434-1788

Date: June 28, 2025

Cuisine: Dim Sum

Rating: Pretty meh for the SGV

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Happy Together, nestled in the heart of El Monte, inside the Holiday Inn, offers an authentic Dim Sum and Cantonese dining experience. Located at 9920 Valley Blvd, this restaurant is a haven for food enthusiasts who crave the intricate flavors and textures of traditional Chinese cuisine.

It’s a typical looking mid level Chinese place, fairly big.

The atmosphere at Happy Together is warm and inviting, with a contemporary design that blends seamlessly with traditional Chinese elements. The restaurant is often filled with the comforting hum of conversation and the clinking of chopsticks, creating a lively and convivial ambiance. What makes Happy Together notable is its commitment to authenticity. Each dish is meticulously prepared using time-honored recipes and the freshest ingredients, resulting in a menu that is a true reflection of China’s rich culinary heritage. Whether you’re a seasoned Dim Sum connoisseur or a curious first-timer, Happy Together promises an unforgettable dining experience.

The 1999 Pommard Grands Epenots from Domaine Michel Gaunoux is a stunning representation of Burgundy’s rich heritage. This red wine showcases deep, ripe fruit flavors of dark cherries and plums, enhanced by earthy undertones and elegant oak nuances. Pair it with a herb-crusted lamb dish to complement its structured tannins.

This wine’s velvety texture and lingering finish make it a worthy companion for hearty cuisine. Its complexity and depth are best revealed with gentle decanting, inviting layers of spice and forest floor notes to emerge over time, enhancing the dining experience.

Icky, wine-soaked chicken parts on the table to start. The pieces are glossy and wine-stained, tender yet a bit slippery, with a boozy aroma that can be polarizing.

The menu at Happy Together showcases a selection of exquisite desserts, highlighting ingredients like coconut milk and walnuts. Each dish, presented with elegance, reflects a delicate and refined approach to traditional sweet offerings.

Smashed cucumbers. Crisp, juicy, and refreshing, their craggy edges clutch a garlicky, tangy dressing so every bite pops with cool, lightly spicy snap.

Jellyfish. Nice and crunchy.

Roast Goose. Way too much goose. Served with a sweet sauce; pretty good, but I’ve had tastier goose. The meat is rich and dark, a bit dense, with the sweetness leaning heavy on the palate.

Typhoon-style lobster. Just okay, but huge. Typically it’s the Hong Kong Typhoon Shelter style—wok-seared and buried under crunchy fried garlic and chilies, salty, aromatic, and lightly spicy.

Roast Chicken. Also, a monster chicken. This was actually the best of Yarom’s overzealous pre-order dishes. Quite juicy.

The dish, Stir-Fried Fish with Seasonal Greens, presents a canvas of delicate hues, where the soft ivory of tender fish melds seamlessly with vibrant emerald greens and splashes of orange and yellow from crisp carrots and crunchy zucchini. The aroma unfolds like a whisper, a subtle infusion of ginger and garlic that beckons the senses towards the dish. Each bite reveals a masterful interplay of textures; the fish, almost silken in its tenderness, contrasts beautifully with the verdant snap of the blanched vegetables. Flavors dance gracefully on the palate—mellow umami notes from the seafood are brightened by the refreshing crunch of fresh greens, resulting in a dish that embodies both simplicity and elegance, evoking the essence of coastal dining at its finest.

Fried tofu and mushrooms.

Walnut shrimp. Very fried, but delicious. Crisp batter with a sweet, creamy glaze and crunchy walnuts that lean rich and nutty.

Scrambled eggs with shrimp. Yarom can never resist this dish, even though it was his second plate of scrambled eggs that day. Silky, custardy eggs cradle sweet, briny shrimp for a simple, comforting bite.

Immerse yourself in the delicate elegance of Scallops with Celery, where the pristine ivory hue of the perfectly seared scallops captures the eye, while the vibrant emerald celery provides a striking contrast. Each bite reveals a tender, buttery texture that melts in your mouth, releasing a subtle briny sweetness that dances harmoniously with the crispness of the finely cut celery. Aromas of ocean freshness intermingle with the gentle fragrance of sautéed greens, inviting a symphony of flavors that linger on the palate, enhanced by the slightest hint of aromatic spices that elevate this dish to a sublime experience.

Deep-fried eggplant. Too fried. The batter feels heavy and a bit greasy, leaving the interior more dry than creamy.

Spareribs. Lots of bone, but tasty. Light on meat, yet the bites you do get are juicy with a gentle chew and a satisfying, savory finish.

Mapo Tofu. The not-actually-spicy type, but nice texture. Silky tofu with a savory, gently aromatic sauce—more comfort than fire.

Seafood Chow Mein. Delicious with the crunchy noodles. Briny seafood and a glossy, savory sauce tie it all together.

Happy Together was just okay. Fairly typical and extensive menu but the executive was middling — almost no dishes were really sharp, just pleasant. I wouldn’t return given how many places there are in the SGV.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Happy at Happy Harbor
  2. Happy Table 2X
  3. Happy Table – New Bay is Old Bay
  4. Happy Hibi
  5. DimSumQuest – Happy Harbor
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Chinese cuisine, Happy Together, hedonists, SGV, Wine

Posh Chinese – 88 Club

Oct03

Restaurant: 88 Club

Location: 9737 S Santa Monica Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 968-9955

Date: May 27 & September 5, 2025

Cuisine: Chinese

Rating: Good, but “white” and is it worth the price hike from the SGV?

_

Nestled in the heart of Beverly Hills, 88 Club is a new place from the celebrity chef that brought us the brief, but excellent Nightshade.

This clubby-looking restaurant, located at 9737 S Santa Monica Blvd, focuses on “authentic Chinese cuisine”, with an upscale take, serving a variety of dishes that are as diverse and vibrant as the country itself. From the spicy kick of Szechuan to the subtle flavors of Cantonese fare, 88 Club’s menu is a gastronomic journey through China’s rich culinary heritage.

The dining concept at 88 Club is a blend of tradition and innovation. The chefs here are not just cooks, but culinary artists who take pride in presenting dishes that are visually stunning and tantalizingly delicious. The atmosphere is equally impressive, with a sophisticated interior that exudes an air of elegance and refinement. The dimly lit space, adorned with tasteful oriental decor, creates an intimate setting that is perfect for a romantic dinner or a special celebration.

What sets 88 Club apart is its commitment to quality and authenticity. Every dish is prepared using the freshest ingredients, sourced locally whenever possible, and cooked to perfection using traditional Chinese techniques. The result is a dining experience that is not just about eating, but a celebration of Chinese culture and cuisine. Whether you’re a food connoisseur or a casual diner, 88 Club in Beverly Hills is a place where you can savor the true flavors of China in a setting that is as stylish as it is comfortable.

The lazy susan was so tiny!

The 2006 Comtes de Champagne from Taittinger is an extraordinary expression of the Champagne region, showcasing the elegance and complexity that this vintage embodies. With a blend primarily of Chardonnay, this sparkling wine reveals delicate notes of brioche, white flowers, and a touch of citrus zest, harmonizing beautifully on the palate with a refined mousse and a long, mineral-driven finish. Perfectly paired with oysters or a classic lobster dish, this wine elevates any celebratory occasion.

The menu at 88 Club features a blend of contemporary Asian-inspired dishes with a focus on bold flavors and fresh ingredients, highlighted by staples like Kung Pao Scallops, Sweet & Sour Fish, and Westholme Black Pepper Strip Steak. Vegetable offerings include options like Charred Hot & Sour Cabbage and fragrant Eggplant, while desserts range from Jasmine Milk Tea Custard Bun to Almond Pudding with a modern twist.

The 2010 Dujac Bonnes Mares Grand Cru showcases the elegance of Burgundy with its intricate bouquet of dark cherry, violet, and subtle earthiness. Hailing from the renowned Côte de Nuits, this wine benefits from both meticulous vineyard practices and a legacy of excellence. The velvety tannins and vibrant acidity promise an exquisite pairing with roasted duck or a rich mushroom risotto, enhancing the earthy undertones found in both the wine and the dish.

Chrysanthemum Salad VE. Red-skin peanuts, geema vinaigrette. Zesty and refreshing.

Cucumber and Wood Ear Mushroom Salad. Soy vinaigrette. Crisp cucumber and springy wood ear make a cool, textural bite, with the tangy soy dressing giving a clean, savory gloss.

 

Mung Bean Jelly Noodles VE. With aged black vinegar and chili oil. Quite nice. Cool, translucent noodles with a slippery, bouncy bite; the vinegar’s mellow tang balances the chili’s heat.

Sesame Prawn Toast. Sweet & sour, plus hot mustard aioli. Amazing savory prawn flavor and great texture. Really fab.

Beef chow mein. Wagyu tri-tip, mung bean sprouts, alliums. Very tender. Springy noodles with a light chew, crisp sprouts, and a savory, wok-kissed sauce tie it together.

Prawn & bamboo shoot wontons in chicken master stock, ginger oil. Delicate, silky parcels with sweet prawn and a gentle crunch from bamboo shoot, bobbing in a clean, savory broth lightly perfumed by ginger.

Fish-Fragrant Eggplant. A little sweet, but delicious.

Singaporean Chow Mein. Curried rice vermicelli with market vegetables. Fragrant and lightly spicy, the thin noodles are springy and the vegetables stay crisp-tender, with a sunny curry aroma.

Kung Pao Scallops. Kind of deconstructed scallops. Tender, sweet scallops meet the classic Kung Pao notes—crisp peanuts, dried chilies, and a glossy, spicy-sweet, tangy sauce—so the heat sparks while the shellfish stays silky.

Sweet & Sour Fish: pineapple, peppers. Crisp, lightly battered fish in a glossy, tangy-sweet sauce, with juicy pineapple and crunchy peppers for balance.

The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Perrot-Minot showcases the elegance and complexity typical of this esteemed Burgundy region. With rich aromas of dark cherry, earthy truffles, and subtle spice, this wine exhibits a silky texture and a harmonious balance of acidity. Perfectly paired with roasted game meats or wild mushroom risotto, it invites contemplation with every sip.

Nam Yu Roasted Jidori Chicken. Ginger scallion oil, aromatic soy. Expect crisp skin and juicy meat, with nam yu’s savory depth lifted by the ginger scallion oil and perfumed soy.

The sauce.

The dish, a perfectly sculpted mound of steamed jasmine rice, gleams with a pristine ivory sheen, radiating an inviting warmth that fills the air with a delicate floral aroma. Each grain, meticulously cooked to achieve a tender yet slightly chewy texture, unfurls subtle notes of sweetness that dance across the palate, providing a harmonious balance to any accompanying dish. As you savor the first spoonful, the rice unfurls effortlessly, revealing its capacity to absorb the flavors of its surroundings, while leaving a satisfying, creamy essence that lingers blissfully, inviting you to take yet another bite.

Charred hot & sour cabbage. Smoky, blistered edges meet a bright vinegar-chile bite, with crisp-tender leaves that stay juicy.

3-cup crispy maitake. Frilly clusters stay shatter-crisp at the edges and tender at the core, lacquered in the classic soy, rice wine, and sesame oil trio with a basil lift. Savory, lightly sweet, and deeply aromatic.

Cha Siu Ibérico Pork. Hot mustard. Very sweet and soft. Lacquered and glossy, the sweet glaze is balanced by the mustard’s heat.

Mango coconut sago, citrus. Silky sago pearls in creamy coconut with ripe mango, brightened by a clean citrus lift.

Almond pudding, market stone fruits, marzipan. Creamy and gently sweet, the pudding’s almond depth and marzipan’s perfumed richness are brightened by the juicy snap of peak-season stone fruits.

Jasmine Milk Tea Custard Bun. Great texture. Like a fancy Beard Papa’s. The bun is pillowy with a gentle gloss, and the custard leans creamy-sweet with a soft jasmine aroma.

Family meal.

Overall, 88 Club is slightly polarizing. I like it, because it’s right by my (new) house and has pretty strong nostalgic Chinese flavors. Sure, it’s way overpriced and they are kinda irritating about reservation times. Twice I’ve tried to move a reservation slightly a day or so before and “no go.” And it’s nowhere near as interesting as most SGV places. But it’s also 7 minutes away instead of 50!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Posh Spice
  2. Posh Taverna – Avra
  3. Tasty Spot Cafe
  4. Foodie Club at Spago
  5. Mastro’s Ocean Club Malibu
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: 88 Club, Beverly Hills, Chinse cuisine, Foodie Club, Wine
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