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Archive for Dan Dan Mein

Lunch Quest — Xiang La Hui

Feb05

Restaurant: 香辣汇Xiang La Hui

Location: 621 W Main St, Alhambra, CA 91801. (626) 703-4165

Date: December 21, 2019 & May 28, 2021 & January 23, 2022

Cuisine: Szechuan Chinese

Rating: Some great dishes. Very solid modern Chengdu style joint

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Continuing the Lunch Quest series in which Yarom and I explore more casual Asian lunch spots.
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Some friend reviews and an eater article brought us to this new Szechuan entry on Main St.
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Food photos as decor — something I can get behind.
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But the inside is of that newer style appealing to the under 30 set with a touch of decor and smaller rectangular tables (as opposed to the older “palace” style places).
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The menu has most of the Szechuan classics.
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And by 5/28/21 they made one of those super fancy modern Chinese picture menus.

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Cucumber in garlic. Excellent. nice crunch. lots of garlic. only missing the spice.
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Chicken w/ chili sauce and pepper. Whole cleaver-ed chicken. Lots of bone but tons of flavor. Green and numbing and gorgeous.

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Cold Noodle (with chicken) — delicious with a nice vinegary flavor and great texture. Much better than the dan dan.
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Jelly Noodle with Spicy Sauce. I like these, but the cold noodle with chicken was the best here.

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Kung Pao Shrimp.

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Happy Chicken. Garlicky “hanging” chicken. Pretty good.

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Dan Dan Mein. Fairly typical Chengdu Style. Not that nutty or spicy though. Ok.
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Stirred up.
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Stir Fried Rabbit with Green Pepper. Super hot, lots of mala, and very very tasty. Little bones though.
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Diced Rabbit in Chili Sauce. A slightly different rabbit variant.

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Frog with Chili and Serrano. Hot and boney.

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Shredded Pork with Garlic Sauce. Classic, not bad. A bit sweet for Yarom.
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Twice Cooked Pork. A classic.
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House Special Pork Belly. Nice and fatty with a bit of preserved vegetable underneath.

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Grilled Lamb Chops.

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Toothpick lamb. One of the most flavorful and most tender versions of this dish I’ve had.
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Dry Beef in Chili Powder. This was a bit different — and good.
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Cumin Lamb. Super tender and full of flavor.
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Pork Belly with Rice Flour. Old school traditional.
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Live spicy roasted fish with Rattan Pepper. You get to pick your “add-ons” individually. We added all sorts of stuff here including crab sticks, spam, lotus root, etc.

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Mapo tofu. Excellent version. First rate really.
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Wok-Fried strong beans. Very nice version with crunchy beans.
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Grapefruit Aperol Tarragon Sorbetto — Cold pressed Fresh Grapefruit juice from my garden, Aperol and fresh Tarragon! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — Unique and bracing — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #grapefruit #aperol #tarragon
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I love this flavor — Peppermint Bark Gelato — Base is pure peppermint milk (subbed the sugar with crushed peppermint candies) and it’s laced with house-made double-sided peppermint bark, Valrhona Dark Chocolate and Ivoire White! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — The Peppermint Bark recipe was developed by a famous pastry chef and author, the mum of a Naughty Dog Alum @nancy_baggett — this year I added the two layer thing which is awesome — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #dessertgasm #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #peppermint #bark #Valrhona #chocolate

On the first visit, I would have liked to try more dishes, but of the ones that I had, at least half of these were great and the other half were pretty good. It’s not as consistent as Sichuan Impression, but the chicken with chili sauce, toothpick lamb, rabbit, and cold noodles were fabulous.

On my second visit I found everything we ordered to be excellent, particularly the toothpick lamb, mapo, and cold noodles. I’m upping my “rating” to consider this one of the best Sichuan kitchens currently operating in the SGV. The style is quite representative of Chengdu.

On our third visit we had even more. I continue to think this is one of the better straight up modern Chengdu Sichuan places. And they allow corkage no problem. Service is a little scattered though.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

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Related posts:

  1. Szechuan Impression Tustin
  2. Noodle Harmony
  3. Szechuan Impression West
  4. Jiang Nan Spring
  5. Chong Qing Special Noodles
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Dan Dan Mein, Lunch Quest, SGV, Sichuan, spicy, Szechuan Chinese, Xiang La Hui

Eating Chengdu – Alley Noodles

Sep19

Restaurant: Somewhere near the Kuanxiangzi Alley

Location: ? Central Chengdu

Date: August 4, 2018

Cuisine: Szechuan Noodle House

Rating: OG dan dan

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Chengdu has a couple areas now of older style buildings that have been restored and turned into pedestrian streets filled with different mixes of stores, restaurants, and vendors.
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This one, apparently Kuanxiangzi Alley (someone who reads Chinese can confirm), is very popular and upscale.
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And crowded!
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Among other Szechuan delicacies they offer spicy fried rabbit heads!
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And ear cleaning!
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We asked our guide to bring us to the most authentic dan dan mein possible and he took us here. I have no idea what it’s called.
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They double as a vendor out front. Or maybe there just is a vendor out front.
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The food appears to be made right in the lobby.
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And the decor is definitely not aimed at the western crowd.
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We split into two tables and ordered everything on the menu.
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Like non-spicy pork (spam?) and mushroom and bamboo noodles (thin).
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Or the same thing with thick noodles.
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And the main event, dan dan mein, one of the world’s greatest noodle dishes — which I even make at home.
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This is Chengdu-style where it’s not very soupy, has less sesame/peanut and is spicer. You mix it up to experience the really complex savory/spicy/numbing flavor. There was a good bit of preserved mustard greens in here for that unusual umami crunch. Excellent!
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And the spicy (beef?) and bamboo noodle.
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Plus two kinds of dumplings. This numb taste dumpling which was awesome — not that you can really taste what’s inside under that chili sauce.
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And the same non-spicy pork dumpling in the non-spicy broth (same as above with the non-spicy noodles).
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Chopsticks you help yourself to.

Good place. Not a big menu, but I could certainly lunch off top notch Chengdu style dan dan mein and numb taste dumplings often enough!

For my catalog of Chinese restaurant reviews in China, click here.

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New and old – east and west!

Related posts:

  1. Eating Chengdu – Chen Mapo Tofu
  2. Eating Beijing – 3.3 Noodles
  3. White Guys Can Cook Noodles
  4. Chengdu Taste – Power of the Peppercorn
  5. Eating Xi’an – De Fa Cheng
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: China, Chinese Food, Dan Dan Mein, Dan Dan Noodles, Eating Chengdu, Eating China, Sichuan, spicy, Szechuan cuisine

Opening Day at Killer Noodle

Oct16

Restaurant: Killer Noodle

Location: 2030 Sawtelle Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025

Date: October 16, 23, 26 & 29, 2017 + about 15 other times!

Cuisine: Japanese Dan Dan Noodles

Rating: Tasty but highly specific

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Tsujita is the king of Sawtelle ramen with three existing store fronts on the street, the original, annex, and their high end sushi joint.

Yesterday/today they just opened their newest venture in the old Bachi Burger space. Killer Noodle specializes in Tantanmen which is the sort of milder more approachable Japanese “adaption” of Chinese Dan Dan Mien. I love the original Chinese version and even make it myself.

All the Japanese vendors leave these flower arrangements to celebrate your opening.

They are quite lovely but a few of them are rotting in the former Ramen Roll space as I type — I’m not bitter, no no.

The outside menu. Yesterday Killer Noodle was giving away free bowls but today is the first (normal?) day and it was mostly full at 12:30-1ish but not quite. People probably don’t totally know it’s open yet but no crushing mob.

The interior is spacious and much more upscale from the other two noodle shops.

Attractive for sure and lots of space between tables. Small bar too.

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Tasty looking spices make up the decoration behind the bar.

You can pick your spice level. I tried #3 normal. It wasn’t really spicy at all by my standards.


The simple focused menu. Don’t bring anyone here that doesn’t want spicy pork noodles — nothing else on the menu!

Because of the threat of spice I ordered this Japanese Yogu drink. Went well with the tan tan actually. Very Japanese. They have Asahi draft and that’s about it too. Tsujita is VERY minimalist.
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Long after opening (second half of 2018) they added some buns like this spicy pork bun to the menu as cheap appetizers. I detested the slice of tomato and the slightly sweet, slightly spicy bun just didn’t do it for me. Stick to the noodles.
 Side of Char sui pork. Same as at Tsujita LA, and just as good. They make a nice fatty pork. You stuff this in the noodles (below).

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Shabu Shabu Pork. Boiled pork with green onions and a bit of soy and chili sauce. Nowhere near as good as the char sui — go for that instead.

Poached egg. What the Japanese call an Onsen style egg (boiled at low temp) rather than a proper marinated ramen egg (with gooey center). This is a very soft half cooked egg. Still good though. You crack it in your dish.

Now for the main events:

Tokyo style Tantanmen, wet. Here is the “signature” version, wet. The wet version uses thinner ramen noodles.

With pork and egg added. The Tokyo also has some sesame in it, but as far as I can tell no Szechuan broad beans, five spice, or pickled mustard greens like a real Dan Dan. The broth base is a mix of chicken stock and tonkotsu stock. Presumably the same or similar as a regular Tsujita ramen. It’s mildly spicy with the chili oil, very garlicky, and has a mild sesame taste. It was very tasty, and again much closer to a “spicy ramen” than a real dan dan. But that’s what tan tan is.
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Tokyo style dry. This is a 10/26/17 level 5 with extra egg and pork. Tokyo is a touch nuttier, a touch less mala by default, but certainly not very different. So far, this is my favorite variant (and I’ve tried all the dry versions).
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Mixed up. This is what you actually eat.

Downtown Style Tantamen, dry. The dry variant they claim is closer to the Chinese original, although I’m not sure I agree. This downtown one has cayenne and Szechuan peppercorn. It wasn’t very hot or particularly numbing at level 3. It was very tasty though. Tons of garlic. Ground pork. Definitely a more Japanese blend than a real Chinese one. This version doesn’t have the sesame (or at least not nearly as much). At a level 5 this packs a very potent chili wallop.

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Fully dressed and ready to mix (photo from 10/23/17). This is actually a killer level 4 and you can see the increased Szechuan peppercorn dust on it.

The stirred up (but messy) dry style. Not totally dry obviously as the flavor is in the sauce. They use the same (as far as I can tell) thick Tsukemen noodles for the dry version.

The final flavor is “original style“, here shown “dry” level 3. “Original” here apparently means “novel” not the most “typical” tantanmen.

With the requisite $1.50 egg.

And all mixed up. This is BY FAR the most different of the 3. It’s got a sort of green/black pepper flavor and while it has plenty of heat is much more subtle and much less flavorful. Nice texture with the bean sprouts and tofu too. They give you lemon to add acid. Tasty and interesting, and almost “cooling” between bites of my level 5 “downtown”. But I wouldn’t crave it nearly as much.
 Pork over rice bowl. This is tiny. It’s not a meal but an “extra”. You mix it up, but it has sour cream in there too along with chili sauce and ground pork. Makes for a weird mix.
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Mapo ball. Why it’s called a ball, I have no idea. But the mapo is actually an excellent take on the Chinese classic. Not exactly totally Chinese, but super delicious with some real mala heat.

Overall, I’ll be back (many times) as this was a very tasty spicy ramen. I had the wet version the first time (Tokyo) and the dry version (Downtown) the second and a dry (Tokyo) the third and a dry (Downtown) and dry (Original) the fourth. To break down the styles: Tokyo is my favorite and has far more sesame nut flavor. Downtown is more straight chili, mala, and vinegar. Original has it’s unique bright green/black pepper flavors but is much more subdued flavor-wise and feels far less rich.

The thicker noodles are better and because of that I like the “dry.” But I found out you can order the thick noodles in a wet so I have to try that too.

I think Killer Noodle does an excellent job with Tantanmen — being the derived milder Japanese version of Dan Dan. That’s pretty much all they offer, even if there are a couple versions. It would be a weird place to bring a group because not EVERYONE wants a spicy ramen variant. But when you do, totally worth coming.

The first time I got a 3 heat level and that was relatively mild. The second a 4 and that was a big step up heat wise and had me sweating although it wasn’t tough to eat. I tried a 5 (on two different days) also and that was very hot. Certainly I could eat it, but I was really sweating. I’ve had the 6 twice too and it’s fabulous, but has “consequences.” 4 is probably the sweet spot going forward for most people although occasionally I feel like a 5 or 6. Definitely on my regular rotation for now – I go most weeks!

This isn’t for everyone, but if you like a LOT of flavor and spice, Killer Noodle is fabulous.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Because of the heat we were bad and wet across the street to B-Sweet.

Glazed donut stuffed with taro (Ume) ice cream. Sweet and delicious. Glazed donut bread pudding with cream-cheese sauce and ice cream. Oh yeah, sweet!

Related posts:

  1. Hawaiian Noodle Bar
  2. Noodle Check – Yamadaya Ramen
  3. Hedonists Noodle over Hoy-Ka
  4. Viet Noodle Bar
  5. Lucky Noodle King is the Dan Dan Emperor
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: B-Sweet, Dan Dan Mein, Dessert, Killer Noodle, noodles, spicy, Tantanmen, Tsujita LA

Westwood Chinese – Northern Cafe

Sep02

Restaurant: Northern Cafe

Location: 1064 Gayley Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90024. (310) 208-8830

Date: August 4 & 29, 2016

Cuisine: Northern Chinese

Rating: Small menu (for Chinese), but great to have on the Westside

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My quest for decent Chinese food on the west side of town continues unabated.

Northern Cafe joins Qin as one of Westwood’s two most recent fairly authentic Chinese openings. Here they serve northwestern Chinese type food, sort of quick Beijing favorites.

It’s located right in the heart of Westwood, on Gayley, far from the SGV!

The interior is simple but pretty updated. The clientele was almost all Chinese.

The format is fast casual. You order and pay at the counter and then get a number. They bring the food to the table.

The menu.

Some cold appetizers. Cold beef and cilantro.

Pickled cucumber and chili.

Cold noodles w/ Shredded Chicken. Chicken white meat, sesame peanut sauce, cucumber, chili oil. A bit western-a-fied (chicken?) and pleasant, but pretty mild.

Dan Dan Noodles. Sesame peanut sauce, chili oil, cucumber, peanuts.

The dan dan in a bowl. Lots of sesame flavor, but almost no heat and no meat! This is a far cry from the rich, spicy, umami flavor of the real deal.

Zha Jiang Noodles. Kurubuta pork, black bean sauce, cucumber.

Mixed up. Ok, but not as much flavor as I would have liked.

Vegetable pie. Like a tortilla pie filled with garlic greens!

XLB. Juicy Pork Dumplings. These are good as always. A little thicker dough than Din Tai Fung (which I had the day before!). But the inside was very tasty.

Pork & Celery Dumplings. Classic steamed dumplings. The celery flavor came through loud and clear and I always like this kind of textured dumpling. Pretty good actually.

Lamb dumplings. Not the perfect incarnation of this kind of simple dumplings, but maybe an 8/10, very enjoyable. Strong lamby flavor too.

Pan fried shrimp and egg dumplings. Excellent too, hard to tell what is inside these puppies, but it’s good.

 Spicy wontons. Nice. Again they just tasted pretty good. A medium heat.

Beef rolls. Tasty enough. Not amazing, but certainly a decent version and not too huge.

Kung Pao Chicken. A decent version. Not amazing, and a little fried, and not too hot, but a good amount of flavor.
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Orange Chicken. The American Chinese classic. More like sweet and sour spare ribs, the ultra-fried orange version. That being said, I like this homey dish and this was a very good version of the goopy sweet “type.”

House Special Cumin lamb. Onion, cilantro, cumin, chili oil. Not a bad version of this staple dish. Not super spicy but good lamb flavor.
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Mapo tofu. (10/1/16). This mapo had nice soft silky tofu and a thin looking sauce — but there was a decent amount of mala numbing flavor from the Szechuan peppercorns. No meat however, I much prefer it with some ground pork, but this wasn’t a wussy Americanized version either. Sort of a 6/10.

Shrimp fried rice. A passable version. You can’t really go to wrong with fried rice. This version was actually very lightly fried.

Overall, Northern Cafe has some pretty authentic stuff on the menu, it’s not American Chinese exactly — nor is it as good as so many places in the SGV. But it is close, quick, cheap and pretty tasty, so I will go by again soon enough.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Hoi An – Brothers Cafe
  2. Hip Hot
  3. XLB – Soup Dumplings!
  4. Eating San Francisco – Zuni Cafe
  5. White Guys Can Cook Noodles
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Chinese cuisine, Dan Dan Mein, dumplings, noodles, Northern Cafe, Westwood, XLB

Hill Party

Mar30

It’s time for Hedonist buddy Chevy’s annual birthday party — although this time, as he’s getting married next week, it’s a combined bday and pre-wedding party.

Located at Chevy and Seb’s parent’s house on Venus. Actually La Crescenta, which is FAR out there, but gorgeous.

Not a bad view!

This party was BYOB wine, and pot luck food with some people bringing pre-prepared stuff and some of us cooking!

I made my “famous” Dan Dan Mein — super hot with lots of authentic Szechuan chilies.

Fried onions from… Outback I think. haha. Pretty tasty though.

Falafel and humus and eggplant.

Roast Chinese pork!

Roast goat from Boa (there was a goat dinner there 48 hours before).

Chef Avi’s Indian goat curry.

Rice of course.

Yummy fried chicken.

Vegetables. Like Curry Cauliflower.

Hmmm. Green.

Poke.

Seb holding a live lobster.

Yarom chewing on the goat head!

And lots of others having fun.

What’s a party without chips?

Or sausage.

Ceviche.

Crab mushrooms.

Ron’s Veal Milanese. He spent hours making this totally from scratch and it won the dish of the night — although I hold out for my Dan Dan 🙂

Live lobsters!

Chef Adam killed them and basted them with…

Lavender butter.

Then they were grilled. Next to them are marinated venison and buffalo steaks!

Oh and Mark brought Prime Rib!

I probably missed a brunch of stuff too. And then there were the desserts.

Like red velvet cake.

Here is the happy couple, Chevy and Mary with a bit of their wedding cake (in advance).

This party kept on going. Not only were there about 80 bottles of wine! Yeah, 80, but there was a Napa Cab blind tasting with 19 bottles. I tried, but petered out at about number 7 or 8 because this was WAY too much cab for my “delicate” pallet.

More good times.

I’m not going to bother showing all the wines. Way, way too many. I’ll just show some of the cabs and the like.         This is the blind line up after the reveal.

And here are some, but not nearly ALL of the other wines. This was A LOT of wine. Much was too New World or young for me, but some were great.

Related posts:

  1. Epic Ocean Party 2015
  2. Birthday Party, Hedonist Style
  3. House Party from Laos
  4. Yamashiro – Castle on the Hill
  5. Dinner Party – It all starts with Cheese
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: birthday, Dan Dan Mein, hedonists, La Crescenta, Wine

Lao (Hipster) Sze Chuan

Feb29

Restaurant: Lao Sze Chuan

Location: 152 S Brand Blvd. Glendale, CA 91204. Phone number (818) 552-8888

Date: February 28, 2016

Cuisine: Szechuan

Rating: A little Americanized

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Regular Hedonist Chevy has been trying to get us to go to this new “hipster Szechuan” in Glendale since it opened.

Lao Sze Chuan is from China by way of Chicago, but this branch is located across the street from the Americana mall in Glendale.

It’s not as “home style” in decor as the SGV joints.

And the menu is a mixture of Szechuan and other more generic popular Chinese dishes.

Chevy in the house.

We had a great private room that was sealed off, large, and quiet.

2009 Ariston Aspasie Champagne Brut Millésimé. Bitter citrus carries through to a slightly austere finish.

Cold garlic cucumber. Normal enough version of this Chinese classic starter.

From my cellar: 2011 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault. VM 90. The 2011 Meursault is quite beautiful, even if it shows some tightness from its recent bottling. White peach, pear and spice notes all wrap around an energetic frame. I very much like the way the 2011 opens up in the glass. The Comtes Lafon Meursault is now a blend of various parcels, mostly Clos de la Baronne, En la Barre, Luraules and Crotos.

Shanghai Style Jellyfish with mustard. Not a lot of flavor.

2011 Greenlip Wine Sauvignon Blanc. 84 points. Some petrol, but not a particularly good wine. Way too light to stand up to Szechuan too.

Cold Spicy Beef Tendon. Nice dish. Good Szechuan chili oil flavor and a bit of peppercorn numb.

1995 Schloss Schönborn Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese. 93 points. Beautiful golden color, nose incredibly fresh, elderflower, ripe peach, slate, no oxidation. Depth of flavor with high acid, fresh with long lean finish. Could not believe Michael Jordon was playing baseball when these grapes were harvested… it’s holding up well.

Dan Dan Noodles. Of the “chili oil” variant.

Mixed up. Noodles themselves were over-cooked but the flavor was good, with a little mala. Not as nutty as I like.

From my cellar: 2004 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese. GV 92. #1; COLOR-nice golden; NOSE-burnt BMX tires meets peaches, apricots & pears; spritzy; TASTE-beautiful bluestone; gorgeous dried Apricots; viscous & oily; gorgeous peach juice; very polished; great, great wine; very delicate; nice floral aspects; subtle cactus juice & on the finish; a concoction of Cantaloupe & dandelion dancing on the back-end; very complex; great balance of acidity & fruit; great structure; absolute elegance at it’s finest; DS-92; GV-92

Numb Taste Wontons. Not as much flavor as these should have.

Spicy Cabbage. Great dish with a lot of mala from the excellent house chili oil and a nice bit of crunch.

Lao Sze House Fried Rice. A bit of everything. Solid. Not too fried.

Crispy Shrimp with lemon sauce. White guy Chinese, but still nice and tasty. Guilty pleasure.

Same dish with sauce on the side — not nearly as good.
 1995 Bieche Vouvray. Sweet and tangy. Pretty good, and a good pairing.

Eggplant with garlic. Decent, although I’ve had much better versions of this dish.

Tea Smoked Duck. Pretty good. Looks like Peking duck but this had a smoked flavor. Not as characteristic as the best versions I’ve had, but good.
 Ma Po Tofu. They said there was even no pork in this version, which is odd. It had the correct chili oil mala flavor, although it wasn’t super spicy. The chili oil here is pretty good.

2012 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape. VM 93. Opaque ruby. Potent, mineral-laced raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by suave floral and spice qualities, picking up white pepper and cola accents with air. Seamless, round and sweet on the palate, offering intense red berry preserve and floral pastille flavors with a touch of allspice. Finishes sappy and precise, with velvety tannins and a late jolt of cherry compote.

House Spicy Beef. Fried to oblivion, but very tasty.

2008 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape. VM 91. Bright ruby. A heady bouquet displays fresh red berries, sandalwood, dried flowers and a hint of baking spices. Creamy in texture, with lively acidity lifting sweet red and dark berry and candied rose flavors. Becomes sappier with air and finishes with very good clarity and lingering spiciness. Avril thinks this wine will surprise people with its ability to age.

Lao Sze special pork chop. A really tasty sparerib covered in Szechuan goodness.

Szechuan Style Boiled Fish. Drowned in Szechuan sauce. Fish itself was a little mushy.

White rice.

Mixed Hunan Style Vegetables. Mediocre. And not too Hunan.

Combination Chow Mein. Fried noodles with everything. Tasty enough.

Szechuan Chili Hot Pot with lamb. Good stuff with a nice chili oil and cumin flavor and crispy vegetables. Good amount of mala numbing here too.

Cumin lamb. Soft lamb. High quality meat, so not a bad version of this classic.

Shrimp Lo Mein. Not too exciting.

Szechuan String Beans. I’ve certainly had better versions of this dish, but I’ve had far worse.

Various ice creams. Green Tea, Plum, Strawberry, Lychee, and Black Sesame. I loved the three fruit flavors. Nice texture.
 And the plum was insanely good, with a fabulous finish.

Overall, Lao Sze Chuan beat my expectations slightly. It is Szechuan, but it’s not seriously hard core about it. Food-wise, I’d say they are middle of the pack as SGV Szechuan restaurants go. The ingredients were pretty fresh, and the meat better than many SGV places. The location is good too, and there is some decor to the build out. Prices are reasonable. Service was great too, better than you’d likely get at a more authentic spot. Very nice servers and they did a great job staging stuff. They didn’t charge us corkage and even gave us a regular discount (as Chevy lives across the street and goes all the time)! A+ for effort.

Now somehow, mysteriously, Lao Sze Chuan has been voted “one of the best Chinese restaurants in America.” Or at least it garnered a real reputation in Chicago. This isn’t hard to imagine as real Szechuan is probably nonexistent in Chicago. Here it’s just fine. Good even if you live in Glendale and don’t want to drive down to the SGV. For me, since Glendale is actually slightly further (in terms of driving time) than the SGV, I’d only go if meeting friends.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Chuan’s – Back for more Burn
  2. Hip Hot
  3. Pockmarked Old Lady Tofu
  4. Lucky Noodle King is the Dan Dan Emperor
  5. White Guys Can Cook Noodles
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Dan Dan Mein, Lao Sze Chuan, mapo tofu, Sichuan, Szechuan cuisine

White Guys Can Cook Noodles

Jan13

Since I’m a noodle fiend, and Dan Dan Mein is one of my all time favorites, and a lot of my home cooking focuses on pasta (and pizza and gelato) I got it in my head to try making this amazing noodle dish at home — super authentically of course.

So I hunted around for recipes and came across this hard core one to use as my base.

For those of you that don’t know, Dan Dan Mein is the sort of “OG Sesame noodles.” But it’s so much more than the watered down version we get in the states. Ever wonder why sesame noodles are sometimes spicy? It’s because they derive from this dish, which in its true form is always hot. But it’s more than hot. Good dan dan is very complex incredibly aromatic, nutty, spicy, numbing, meaty, and a hefty bowl of chow.
IMG_4620
Then before meeting my pal Sebastian out in the SGV for some Szechuan I stopped by the 168 Market and spent about an hour hunting down all the ingredients. I went so far as to make sure even normal items like garlic and peanuts were grown in China! Subtle things like the differences in vegetable breed can influence the flavor of a dish.
 We start off making chili oil from scratch. This particular incredibly Szechuan oil is flavored with Szechuan peppercorn, star anise, cinnamon, and “regular” chilis.

Here are the Szechuan Peppercorns, which I learned were also known as Prickly Ash or sometimes Red Ash. They smell amazing (and strong) and have a citrus note and a numbing quality on the tongue.
 Dried star anise, which smells like licorice. Oh, and the cinnamon.

Then the chili flakes, and peanut oil.

First try. Let it get too hot. Don’t do this (notice the brown color).

Next try went much better. You basically cook the peppercorns, anise, and cinnamon in the oil slowly to 325.
 Then strain out that stuff and dump the regular chilis in and let it sit until it becomes super red and potent.

 Next up we brown the meat for the dish. I actually made the noodles twice the first week, once with turkey (above) and another time with lamb (below).
 The sauce for cooking the meat involves a mix of shaoxing wine.

The incredibly yummy (and salty) Szechuan sweet bean paste.

And some dark soy sauce (plus a little five spice powder)..

Then in with the browning meat you add sui mi ya cai. This mystery ingredient, which apparently is some kind of preserved mustard green, took me about 30 minutes to possibly locate in the market. None of the employees knew what it was. This “spicy preserved vegetable” was the closest thing I could find. Perhaps it’s the right stuff. Perhaps it’s a variant. It’s certainly preserved and certainly mustard green.

Here they are cooked together with the sauce, then set aside until the noodles are ready. As my friend Bryan, who tried my second batch, commented, the preserved vegetable makes it much more Chinese.

Next up we work on the noodle sauce which is more soy sauce and sesame paste.

Pretty!

And the five spice powder.

And the aforementioned Chinese garlic.

Mixed together.

Some more Szechuan peppercorns needed to be crushed to go straight into this part, so I used my killer mortar and pestle.

You blend it up.

Then incredibly dump a huge amount of that red chili oil in.

And keep stirring.

Meanwhile, some peanuts (also from China).

Chopped.

Then the noodles. The recipe called for Lanzhou noodles, which are flat and white. These turned out to be about the same as most of the restaurant dan dans.

They cook fast.

Then you put the sauce in the bottle of the bowl, dump in some noodles.

Layer on the meat mix, peanuts, and some chopped scallions.

It looks great above, but you need to mix it up.
 Here is the fully mixed version you eat. It might not be a looker, but the dish is incredible and I was very pleased how it turned out. Just like restaurant dan dan, all the good stuff is at the bottom, the rich sauce, the meat chunks etc. The lamb version really kicked ass too (most dan dan uses pork). I also used more meat then most restaurants do and tried to keep the sauce under control so it didn’t get too soupy.

Related posts:

  1. Night of the Whirling Noodles
  2. Tsujita LA – Artisan Noodles
  3. Hedonists Cook the Goose
  4. Chengdu Taste – Power of the Peppercorn
  5. Yojie – Deep Boiled Noodles!
By: agavin
Comments (4)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Chinese cuisine, Cooking, Dan Dan Mein, noodles, san Gabriel valley, SGV, Sichuan, Szechuan cuisine

Hip Hot

Sep14

Restaurant: Hip Hot

Location: 500 N Atlantic Blvd #149, Monterey Park, CA 91754. (626) 782-7711

Date: July 23, 2015 & January 28, 2016

Cuisine: Szechuan Chinese

Rating: Updated awesomeness

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I love my Szechuan. This pepper-fueled branch of Chinese is all about flavor — and it’s certainly hot right now (and all the time). Hence the name of the restaurant.

The Atlantic Blvd interior is updated and reasonably modern.

The tables have glass tops and cool dioramas inside! Each one is different.


The menus.

Watermelon juice. Comes in it’s own “evil genius” watermelon!
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Another cold Szechuan drink, the super yummy smoked plum juice.
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Mung bean noodle with chilies. Love this dish as it has a tangy/hot quality to it.

Cold chicken noodles. These lovely noodles have chili oil and bits of chicken. Cold, a bit spicy, and very pleasant.

Dan Dan Mein. One of my favorite dishes. You mix it up.

This version was very tasty, with lots of pork, but it didn’t have the characteristic nutty/peanut paste richness that I really love, or much Szechuan peppercorn numbing.

Ma Po Tofu. One of my other favorite dishes. This version was excellent, with a nice numb factor, good texture, and lots of chili oil.

Sliced fish boiled with chilies. Another Szechuan classic. The fish was a little thick, but there was plenty of spice to the broth.

1A0A3258
Chongking boiled fish. Might even be the same dish on a different day. Seemed to have different vegetables in it though and less crushed pepper.
1A0A3259
Cauliflower with pork belly hot pot. Rather yummy. Nice crunch to the vegetables and fatty pork goodness.

Spicy chicken. Fried chicken bits tossed with aromatic peppers. Nice salty spicy version of this dish.

Lamb chops. This was a stunner. Really, really good dish with tender lamb chops and delicious spice mixture on top.

1A0A3262
Mutton stew with buns and potatoes. You were supposed to eat the mutton in the buns. The meat was super “gamey.” The lamb cops were better. The combo was interesting, but the little rib bones in the meat made eating it like a sandwich a bit of a challenge.


Crab with chilies. The crab itself was tasty but a bit hard to get into. I loved the mixture below of potatoes, peanuts, rice cakes and the like. When the potatoes had soaked up the chili oil and peppers. Yum!

Taro toast (on left) and rice cakes (right). The taro was mild but had a nice texture like a taro stuffed spring roll. The right was a bit chewy and inaccessible.

Hip Hot is good. The style and plating are updated a lot from the likes of Lucky Noodle King and a little bit above Spicy City. The ingredients were good. The menu isn’t as big as Spicy City, but what they did serve us was very good. I wish the Dan Dan was just a bit nuttier. It’s fairly similar to Chuan’s in being a bit more modern, but I think Chuan’s is a bit better.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Spicy City!
  2. Posh Spice
  3. Chengdu Taste – Power of the Peppercorn
  4. Silk Road Journeys – Shaanxi Gourmet
  5. Palace of Pepper
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Chinese cuisine, Dan Dan Mein, Foodie Club, hip hot, mapo tofu, Sichuan, Szechuan Chinese

Lucky Noodle King is the Dan Dan Emperor

May13

Restaurant: Lucky Noodle King

Location: 534 E Valley Blvd #10, San Gabriel, CA 91776. (626) 573-5668

Date: March 11 & May 6, 2015

Cuisine: Szechuan Chinese

Rating: Amazing Dan Dan

_

I had a craving for Chinese noodles so strong I drove 60 miles round trip by myself for them! Well, not just for any noodles, but for what Jonathan Gold describes as “the best Dan Dan in LA.”


Located in the same mini-mall as Hunan Chili King, the location isn’t much to look at.


Although I find this kind of “authentic” SGV homey and comfortable. Oh, and see those dishes on the wall? That’s about a quarter of the “decorations.” We ordered by saying, “bring us the wall.” (i.e. every pictured dish)!

Everyone gets this starter, spicy pickled cabbage with peanuts. You might say, ick, but it was actually delicious. There was Szechuan peppercorn in there and it had this delight interplay of crunch and numbing spice.



NV Camille Savès Champagne Brut Grand Cru Rosé. Burghound 93. Savès typically makes a relatively deeply colored rosé by the standards of the genre and this latest version is no exception. The cool and distinctly pinot nose also reflects notes of various red berry fruit aromas though notes of yeast are discernible. The delicious, intense and very crisp flavors are underpinned by a fine effervescence that is perfect for the mouth feel of a rosé that is actually much more vinous than most examples, in particular because there is a wonderfully savory quality to the long finish that practically begs for another sip. Lovely stuff that could be enjoyed now or aged, though it is so good presently that I doubt that a case would make it much past a year or so in my cellar


Pork potstickers. Fairly typical versions.

2003 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese. 90 points. Some spritz in the initial glass — nose of honey and peach with some sulfur. very nice palate — medium acidity — not quite enough, but almost there. honeydew melon with a sprinkle of sugar, other melon flavors, tropical fruit, peach, and red apple. i really liked the taste of this, even if the nose wasn’t anything special. shortish finish leaves you wanting another sip — at 8% alcohol.

Numb taste wontons. Nice soft pork wontons coated in…

Chili oil. There was some Szechuan peppercorn action here.

2007 Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese. JG 93. 85 grams per liter residual sugar. Haart reports that the grapes were picked two weeks after the Kabinett and showed higher-than-average must weight. Fine petrol and mineral aromas open into a dazzling purity of concentrated stone fruit and green-gage plum, with notes of earth and mushroom appearing on the long, refined finish.

Beef, beef tendons, tofu. This cold dish was dominated by chile and cilantro.

Stir fried shredded pork with dried bean curd. I thought I’d like this dish, and I was right. A slightly sweet savory pork with that stiff tofu, night textural counter point. Even the crunch of the celery and the chew of the greens went nicely.

2003 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese. 90 points. The best parcel of Schlossberg was harvested November 19 in a single pass as an experiment in block picking, which was standard practice until recent times. “We gambled and we were lucky,” says Selbach. The varied condition of the bunches-“without any skimming or homogenization,” in the winemaker’s words-is directly mirrored in the wine’s complexity, with fresh tropical fruit and citrus notes; spiced, baked and dried orchard fruits; and honey-drenched, ennobled white raisins all taking a turn in the spotlight. That said, the overall impression, without lacking elegance, is certainly fatter and softer than the norm here this year, which may of course say as much about the lateness of the picking as it does about its comprehensiveness. The texture is also uniquely doughy, with a lovely, subtle chewiness. Potential 2 stars.

Pork intestine with pickled pepper. A spicy mix of pig guts and whatnot. The sauce was pretty good and the chitlins had this earthy flavor — not my thing.

From my cellar: 2000 Trimbach Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles. VM 93-95. Bright medium gold. Superripe aromas of apricot jam, exotic spices, honey and tobacco; just misses the clarity of the best SGN bottlings from this producer. Very dense but not hugely unctuous thanks to firm, perfectly integrated acidity. Sappy, vibrant and very long on the aftertaste.

Ma-Po Tofu. I always order this when I can. This was a nice version. Not the best I’ve ever had, but darn good. I could just have used a bit more numbing (like Chengdu — well, that’s more than a bit more numbing). And there was a good amount of SMG (probably), or at least salt. But it got my head sweating a bit.

Dan dan noodles. This is what the trip was all about. Soft noodles, lots of meat, peanuts, some peanut or sesame goop, mustard, green onions, and chili oil.


You mix it up into this incredibly savory porridge of meat, spice, and carbs. It’s super addictive, tasting just ok on the first bite and getting better and better as you work through the bowl.

Noodles with meat soy sauce. Sort of Szechuan spaghetti Bolognese. Not spicy, but rich and tasty.

Mixed up.

ChongQing sour & Spicy cold noodles. These classic mung bean noodles are covered in a tangy spicy sauce with both chile and numbing heat. Yum.

2011 Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay. Burghound 87. A mildly toasty nose of red currant and dark pinot fruit gives way to energetic and quite fresh middle weight flavors that possess acceptably good depth on the moderately long, clean, cool and balanced finish where a bit of oak toast surfaces. This is both slightly rustic and austere though there is very solid length.

ChongQuing Spicy Chicken. Very fried chicken with aromatic peppers. This was some fabulous fried chicken — very fried — with a nice delicate pepper flavor.

Have some peppers!

2009 Gaston & Pierre Ravaut Ladoix 1er Cru Les Basses Mourotttes. I’ve never even heard of this appelation — or if I did I forgot it.

Cumin lamb. The traditional wet form of this dish. Hot with a lot of cumin.

Stir fried pork belly with vegetables. Bacon and greens?

2011 Cameron Pinot Noir Arley’s Leap. 90 points. Clear, light ruby color. Bold spice elements (tobacco, black pepper, oregano, pickled peppers) accenting the bright cranberry and red plum fruit, hints of light roast coffee. Bright acid makes this refreshing to drink, fine-grain tannins help as well. The red plum, cranberry and red cherry fruit is crunchy and fresh, gliding across the palate. This wine has a whole lot of pickling spices and mineral notes working for it, and it’s hitting all the right spots. Cool, clean, complex yet elegant. Ready to drink now but the stuffing for some near-term aging is here. From the highest vines in the Abbey Ridge Vineyard, this is a stunner for my palate.

Not sure what meat this was, beef or pork. It had a lot of flavor though and was fairly mild.

Crazy flavor in savory spiced eel. I admit, I wanted to order this dish — but I regretted it. Not only was it spicy and VERY oily, but it had this fishy flavor that made me nervous.

2009 Alban Vineyards Syrah Reva Alban Estate Vineyard. VM 93-97. Inky purple. Alban’s 2009 Syrah Reva is drop-dead gorgeous. Sumptuous, layered and absolutely impeccable, the 2009 boasts stunning depth and richness but it is never overdone or excessively heavy. Today, the aromas and flavors remain intensely primary, so readers will have to be patient. Still, the Reva is simply thrilling, pretty much as it always has been from barrel. As compelling as Alban’s higher-end Syrahs are, in 2009 I prefer the Reva, as it is the most polished, impeccable and balanced wine in the range. It will be interesting to follow the development of these wines over the next few years.

Twice cooked pork. This was some tough old pig. Very “gamey” and not in a great way.

Fish filet w/ spicy sauce. The sauce was excellent with a lot of numbing peppercorn.

Braised Beef noodles. Like a Pho basically. Quite nice.

Tomato & Fried egg noodles. Different, and not bad at all.

Contrary to internet complaints, the service was excellent. But for me, the single lady was extremely nice and friendly — and the food came out fast and hot. They were extremely on top of it (by SGV standards).

Lucky Noodle King is a homestyle place, and some of the dishes are great. Most of the noodle dishes (particularly the Dan Dan), the fried chicken, etc. Some of the dishes were fine, like the cumin beef, or the Ma Po tofu. However, their meat quality isn’t the highest, so there was a gamey factor with a bunch of dishes and they are heavy handed with the chili oil. Not that I mind the spice, but the ill feeling after Szechuan is directly related to the amount of chili oil consumed.

For most dishes, Spicy City and several other places are a bit better.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Lucky Ducky
  2. Hedonists Noodle over Hoy-Ka
  3. More Awesome Dimsum – King Hua
  4. Chengdu Taste – Power of the Peppercorn
  5. Serious Szechuan
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Asian cuisine, Chinese cuisine, Chinese Food, Dan Dan Mein, Dan Dan Noodles, hedonists, mapo tofu, Sichuan, Szechuan cuisine, Szechuan Pepper
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