Restaurant: Fitoor
Location: 115 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401. (310) 829-7200
Date: February 7 & March 27, 2025
Cuisine: Indian
Chef: Pawan Mahendro
Rating: Very tasty and bold
Fitoor opened on the western edge of downtown Santa Monica in late 2023 as the follow-up project from chef-patriarch Pawan Mahendro and his sons Nakul and Arjun, the family behind L.A.’s cult Indian gastropub Badmaash. After a decade of hearing Westsiders ask when they would bring their cooking closer to the beach, the trio took over a soaring former wine bar, christened it with the Urdu word for “burning obsession,” and installed three wood-fired tandoors that give both the room and the food a literal glow. The result is a restaurant whose mission is very Cal-Indian: marry the produce of the nearby farmers market with the smoke, pickles, and spice of the subcontinent, but do it in a way that feels as breezy as the ocean only a few blocks away.
The menu skews seasonal and shareable—think charred delicata squash finished with jaggery and ghee, whole Santa Barbara spot prawns bathed in green-mango achaar butter, and a rotating roster of market vegetables roasted under smoldering embers. Cocktails riff on the same dialogue, folding curry leaves into a gin sour or sandalwood into an agave-forward old-fashioned, while a concise natural-leaning wine list is built to tame chilies and smoke. Designer Bells & Whistles wrapped the 90-seat room in peacock-blue banquettes, hammered brass, and carved jali screens, striking a balance between Mumbai glam and coastal California ease; a sidewalk patio pulls in salt air and sunset light.
In a city where most contemporary Indian cooking had clustered east of the 405, Fitoor immediately reshaped the Westside conversation. Early raves from the Los Angeles Times and Eater positioned it as both a destination restaurant and a neighborhood hangout, proving that Indian flavors can be plated with the same produce-driven finesse—and served in the same design-forward setting—as any of Santa Monica’s coastal Mediterranean or New-American hotspots. Within months it became a catalytic address, coaxing diners, chefs, and cocktail pros alike to see Indian cuisine not as a late-night craving but as one of L.A.’s most vibrant, modern, and versatile food languages.
Chef Pawan Mahendro, the culinary patriarch behind the Mahendro family’s growing Los Angeles empire, now presides over the stoves at Fitoor in Santa Monica. Born in Amritsar, he earned his stripes in India’s luxury-hotel circuit—stints at Oberoi properties and the Taj Group—before emigrating to Toronto, where he helmed the beloved Copper Chimney and later opened his own place, Chef of India. In 2013 he joined his sons Nakul and Arjun to launch Badmaash in downtown L.A., a boundary-pushing Punjabi gastropub that landed on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list for multiple years and helped redefine modern Indian cooking in Southern California. Fitoor, which opened in 2023 a few blocks from the Pacific, is the family’s most ambitious dining room yet and gives Pawan a dedicated stage for the refined techniques he has been honing for nearly five decades.
Mahendro’s signature style lies at the intersection of classic North-Indian flavors and the ingredient-driven ethos of coastal California. At Fitoor that translates to Santa Barbara spot prawns quickly kissed in the tandoor and glossed with chile-garlic ghee, lamb nalli nihari slow-braised over mesquite, and delicate vegetable dishes that pivot with the Santa Monica farmers’ market. His influences range from the street-food vendors of Old Delhi to the exacting French brigade system he studied in hotel school; the result is food that feels both emotionally familiar and quietly technical. Eater L.A. has already named Fitoor one of the city’s “Most Anticipated” openings, and local critics routinely single out Mahendro’s sauces and stocks—built on long, layered reductions—for particular praise.
Guiding the menu is a simple philosophy the chef sums up as “tradition, obsession, and California sunshine.” Tradition supplies the canon: time-honored garam masalas hand-ground each morning and breads stretched to order against the walls of a clay oven. Obsession is the relentless pursuit of depth—tasting every batch of makhani sauce until the fenugreek hum is perfectly calibrated, or refusing to send out a biryani until the rice grains steam into distinct, perfumed strands. And California sunshine means cooking with the immediacy of place: pristine produce, sustainable seafood, grass-fed meats, and a respect for seasonality that keeps the menu in constant, playful motion. In Mahendro’s hands, Fitoor becomes less a restaurant than a love letter—to India, to his adopted coast, and to the restless, joyful act of cooking itself.
The Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois is a refined Champagne from the renowned Épernay region, crafted with a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes. The 2012 vintage showcases a unique depth and complexity, with notes of toasted brioche, ripe apple, and subtle hints of spice. This elegant sparkling wine pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly oysters or grilled fish, enhancing the meal with its fine bubbles and crisp acidity.
From the iconic house of Billecart-Salmon, this Champagne reflects the terroir of the Champagne region, with a focus on traditional methods and minimal intervention. The oak aging adds a layer of richness, making it a perfect companion for rich cheeses and charcuterie, elevating your dining experience with its harmonious balance and lingering finish.
Silken Yogurt Kebab: cream cheese, coriander chutney. Filled with cream cheese and super delicious. The delicate texture of the kebab melts in your mouth, while the vibrant coriander chutney adds a refreshing contrast, enhancing the dish’s rich creaminess. The interplay of flavors is both satisfying and subtle, inviting you to savor each exquisite bite.
Bombay Papdi Bhel: puffed rice, mint & dates chutney. Dry texture, crunchy, with a good flavor. The vibrant green of the mint chutney mingles beautifully with the golden hue of the puffed rice, creating a feast for the eyes. Each bite bursts with a delightful contrast of textures, the crispiness of the rice harmonizing with the luscious sweetness of the dates, while the mint adds a refreshing aroma that lingers on the palate.
Achari Paneer Tikka: pickle, olive tapenade. Delicious, but super rich and actually a little bit spicy. The vibrant hues of the marinated paneer contrast beautifully with the deep, earthy tones of the olive tapenade, creating a visually stunning dish. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of tangy, umami flavors, while the subtle heat lingers pleasantly on the palate, inviting another taste.
Tandoori Curry Leaf Prawns: curry leaf, tobiko, tempered buttermilk. Lovely. The foamy dairy was awesome too. The vibrant orange hue of the prawns captivates the eye, while the fragrant curry leaves impart a subtle earthiness. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of textures, from the crispy tobiko to the creamy buttermilk, creating a harmonious dance of flavors that lingers pleasantly on the palate.
Coastal Flame Scallops: Sri Lankan fish curry, black tobiko. Nice and clean. The scallops are perfectly seared, showcasing a delicate caramelization that enhances their natural sweetness, while the vibrant black tobiko adds a delightful crunch. The dish is elevated by the aromatic layers of the Sri Lankan fish curry, which imparts a subtle heat and earthy complexity, enveloping the palate in a harmonious embrace of bold flavors and textures.
Chicken Koliwada. Fried chicken poppers, chili dust.
Avocado Burrata Chaat. Avocado mixed with burrata cheese and Indian spices. Topped with nylon sev and mango and berry coulis.
Pulled Butter Chicken Kulcha: herb butter, micro greens. Naan with butter chicken — what’s not to like? The rich, unctuous flavor of the butter chicken melds seamlessly with the herbaceous notes of the butter, creating a delightful harmony that dances on the palate. The golden kulcha, perfectly crisp on the outside yet pillowy soft within, invites you to indulge in every savory bite, while the vibrant microgreens add a refreshing burst of color and freshness to the experience.
Truffle Mushroom Kulcha. Fluffy kulcha stuffed with cheese, savory mushrooms & earthy truffle.
The Piano di Montevergine Taurasi 2010 from Feudi di San Gregorio is a captivating expression of the Campania region. This Aglianico-based wine boasts deep, dark fruit aromas interwoven with notes of leather, spice, and hints of minerality. On the palate, it is robust yet refined, offering a velvety texture and well-integrated tannins, making it an excellent pairing for rich meats like braised lamb or aged cheeses.
This vintage reflects the terroir beautifully, showcasing the complexity and aging potential characteristic of Taurasi wines. With its structured profile and lingering finish, it invites a contemplative sip, ideal for savoring alongside hearty Italian dishes or a charcuterie board.
Kashmiri Gucchi Risotto: morel mushrooms, truffle oil. This risotto was to die for — super creamy. The rich, earthy aroma of the morel mushrooms intertwined beautifully with the luxurious truffle oil, creating a symphony of umami that lingered delightfully on the palate. Its velvety texture and vibrant color made every spoonful an indulgent experience, reminiscent of a warm embrace on a cool evening.
Alleppey Prawn & Fish Curry. Coconut, curry leaf. The dish presents a vibrant medley of flavors, where the richness of coconut envelops the tender prawns and fish, creating a harmonious balance. The fragrant curry leaves impart a subtle earthiness, while the dish’s enticing aroma evokes the warm embrace of coastal Indian cuisine. Each spoonful reveals a symphony of textures, from the silky sauce to the succulent seafood, making this a truly delightful experience for the palate.
The Curry itself had a bit of a Thai curry vibe. Quite lovely flavor actually.
Asado Branzino Filet. mint pesto, potato salli.
Traditional Chicken Seekh Masala: Onion tomato masala. Rich and delicious. Instead of the usual grilled chicken, this was spiced chicken kebab — even better. The vibrant hues of the masala envelop the tender kebabs, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of spices, with earthy undertones and a subtle smokiness that lingers delightfully, complemented by the sweet acidity of the onion-tomato base.
Lamb Shank Rogan Josh chili threads, micro greens, rogan. Very nice. The sauce was slightly thin though. The dish boasts a rich, earthy aroma, with the tender lamb shank enveloped in a vibrant, crimson-hued sauce that hints at the depth of spices within. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of warmth and complexity, complemented by the delicate crunch of microgreens and the subtle heat of chili threads, creating a delightful interplay of textures and flavors.
Peshawari Lamb Seekh Kebab. Minced lamb flavored with Peshawari spices, cooked in the tandoor and served with horseradish thecha, mint foam and yogurt onions.
Traditional Chicken Seekh Masala. Chicken kebabs served in an onion, tomato and cashew masala. Garnished with crumbled pistachio and cashews. *spicy*
Garlic Naan is a warm, pillowy flatbread infused with aromatic garlic, making it the perfect companion to any curry. The golden-brown crust is slightly crisp, giving way to a soft and chewy interior that carries a subtle hint of char. As you tear into it, the delightful fragrance of roasted garlic wafts through the air, inviting you to savor each bite. The gentle interplay of flavors, with the savory garlic notes balanced by a touch of buttery richness, creates a harmonious experience that elevates the entire meal.
Chocolate Nemesis. Orange mousse, jaggery ice cream. Really delicious and very soft. The velvety richness of the chocolate is beautifully complemented by the bright citrus notes of the orange mousse, creating a delightful contrast that dances on the palate. The jaggery ice cream adds a subtle caramel sweetness, enhancing the overall experience with its creamy texture and inviting warmth.
Overall, a pretty delicious place. Very updated and not as heavy as most Indian.