Restaurant: Baroo

Location: 905 E 2nd St #110, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 221-7299

Date: March 4, 2025

Cuisine: Modern Korean

Chef: Kwang Uh

Rating: Very unique and tasty

Baroo first appeared in 2015 as a minuscule, almost monastic strip-mall café in East Hollywood, where Korean-born, Noma-trained chef Kwang Uh mesmerized diners with grain bowls, house-cultured vinegars, and kimchi that tasted like nothing else in Los Angeles. When that original location closed in 2018, its cult following never stopped talking about it. In late 2022 the chef returned—this time with co-owner and fellow chef Mina Park—to open a more polished, reservation-only incarnation at 905 E 2nd St #110 in the Arts District. The reborn Baroo keeps its staff intentionally lean and its counter seating limited, sustaining the intimate dialogue between cook and guest that made the first chapter so magnetic.

Fermentation remains the restaurant’s heartbeat, but the new Baroo stretches further, running a seasonal tasting menu that filters Korean flavors through Californian produce and European technique. A plate might pair koji-aged spot prawn with a delicate chrysanthemum broth, or present a barley-risotto riff enriched with doenjang and shaved truffles; an almost sake-dry makgeolli or a low-intervention Rhone white might sit alongside. The room mirrors the food: spare yet warm, with blond wood, softly rounded plaster walls, and a U-shaped counter that frames the open kitchen like a stage set. In a neighborhood already thick with destination dining, Baroo stands out as both laboratory and temple, reaffirming Los Angeles’ status as one of the most adventurous fermentation capitals in the country.

With its warm brick façade and sleek glass entry, the restaurant exudes a modern yet inviting charm, inviting diners to indulge in a sophisticated culinary journey amidst thoughtfully curated decor that balances industrial elements with cozy accents.

Chef Kwang Uh, the quietly cerebral force behind baroo in DTLA’s ROW complex, has followed an unconventional path to one of the city’s most talked-about kitchens. Born in Seoul and raised partly in Southern California, he began cooking professionally after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, but it was a string of formative stages that shaped his voice: the meticulous kaiseki precision of L.A.’s Urasawa, the ingredient-driven ethos of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and—most decisively—a year inside the Nordic Food Lab and fermentation studio of Noma in Copenhagen. Uh later decamped to the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy, and spent months cooking in Korean Buddhist temples, absorbing the ascetic, zero-waste discipline of temple cuisine. Those experiences fused into the original Baroo, a bare-bones Hollywood strip-mall deli that landed on Bon Appétit’s “Hot 10,” earned a James Beard Rising Star semifinalist nod, and became a cult shrine for chefs before shuttering in 2018. The 2023 rebirth as lowercase baroo, now in partnership with Mina Park, retains the spirit of the original but adds the polish of an open-kitchen tasting-counter.

Uh’s food defies genre labels yet feels deeply Korean at its core: rice milled in-house and seasoned with nuruk, sauces built on long-aged jang, and a restless roster of kimchi, garums, kombuchas, and koji that thread through a seasonal eight-course menu. One course might pair Santa Barbara uni with makgeolli-lees sabayon and puffed black rice; another might reinterpret jjajangmyeon as hand-pulled noodles glazed in black-bean koji and chrysanthemum oil. Influence comes from everywhere—Nordic preservation, Californian produce, Italian pasta craft—but is filtered through the Buddhist notion of “Baroo,” a monk’s simple wooden bowl that symbolizes sufficiency and mindfulness. That philosophy guides the restaurant: respect for living microbes, near-total utilization of each vegetable or fish, and a belief that time, patience, and curiosity are the most potent seasonings. Accolades continue to follow—glowing LA Times reviews, inclusion on the New York Times “America’s Best Restaurants” list—but Uh remains focused on the quiet alchemy happening in the jars that line the back wall, letting fermentation, not fame, chart the next evolution of baroo’s ever-changing menu.

The restaurant’s sleek concrete walls and warm wooden accents create an inviting atmosphere, while the soft glow of pendant lights and carefully curated shelves of artisanal goods set the stage for a culinary journey that feels both intimate and refined.

The menu at Baroo showcases a creative fusion of Korean flavors and contemporary culinary techniques, featuring dishes like celeriac puree with black sesame and lobster tuigim. It emphasizes innovative pairings, such as soy-braised black cod and unique preparations like pork collar ssam, highlighting both traditional and modern influences.

Pig ear – like amuse.

Another amuse of tomato, basil, and toast. Very interesting flavors.

태 — 胎 — TAE is a bridge over field and paddy, featuring a celeriac puree, jokpyeon, and black sesame sool bbang. The dish beautifully balances earthy flavors with a creamy texture, while the jokpyeon adds a delightful chewiness that complements the smooth puree.

양 — 養 — YANG is a lotus flower in the mud, featuring jaetbangeo, achobak, jaepi oil, sangchu, and gim bugak. This dish beautifully contrasts the delicate, earthy flavors of the lotus with the crispness of the vegetables, creating a harmonious balance that is both visually striking and texturally intriguing.

생 — 生 — SAENG life begins with lobster tuigim (deep-fried in parae seaweed batter) and lobster doenjang. The crispy, golden exterior of the lobster tuigim contrasts beautifully with the tender, succulent meat inside, while the rich, savory lobster doenjang adds a depth of flavor that elevates the dish. Each bite is a delightful harmony of textures and tastes, celebrating the ocean’s bounty.

Gratuitous zooms.

대 — 帶 — DAE is sometimes nomadic soy-braised black cod, a dish that beautifully marries rich umami flavors with a tender, flaky texture. The deep, glossy glaze adds an inviting sheen, making it as visually appealing as it is delicious.

Erick in the house.

왕 — 旺 — WANG remains in between peads & barnett pork collar ssam and brandt beef short rib ssam. The pork collar ssam offers a tender, juicy bite with a rich, savory flavor, while the beef short rib ssam is deeply flavorful, boasting a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Both dishes showcase a delightful balance of freshness and umami, making them a must-try.

Close up of the meat duo.

Veggies.

병 — 病 — BYUNG finally realizes? San namul bab, kkaetnip jangajji, gamtae bugak. This dish showcases a delightful balance of textures, with the crispness of the pickled vegetables complementing the tender rice, while the flavors burst with freshness and a hint of umami. Each component harmonizes beautifully, reflecting the essence of Korean cuisine.

절 — 絶 — JEOL is a delightful dessert that combines banana, kiwi, and hazelnut in a refreshing bingsoo. The vibrant colors and textures create a visually appealing dish, while the sweet and nutty flavors harmonize beautifully, making it a perfect treat for warm days.

This was a parade of really interesting flavors. Very subtle, unique, and delicious.

For more LA dining reviews click here.