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Archive for Cru (wine)

Pate de Bourgogne

Sep24

The best Hedonist dinners are the ones like this. The crew: small. The theme: world class Burgundy. The food: superb. The setting: magicial.


The setting was a lovely Hancock Park home and garden.


This particular dinner was hosted by Hedonist, and restauranteur Adam Fleischman. Adam needs no introduction and as the mastermind behind Umami Burger, Smoke Oil Salt, 800 degrees, and a ton of other concepts he is a man with endless energy, ideas, and a talent for doing it right.


Our table.


And my artsy “magazine style” shot.


The menu. The food tonight comes from Gorge Restaurant and Charcuterie (all produced by Adam). Chefs and co-owners Elia Aboumrad and Uyen Nguyen were both at the house whipping up just an amazing sequence of dishes that paired superlatively with the wines.


Everything had that understated contemporary country elegance.


2000 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. IWC 95. Bright gold. Pungent aromas of candied orange, buttered toast, pear skin and vanilla, with a smoky nuance that gains power in the glass. Stains the palate with intense pear liqueur, citrus pith and brioche flavors, picking up notes of licorice and candied ginger with air. A bright mineral note adds lift and energy to the finish, which clings with superb tenacity and lingering smokiness. This complex, concentrated Champagne is showing very well right now but has the legs to age for years to come.


2004 Coche-Dury Meursault. Burghound 91. Soft mineral reduction does not materially detract from the green fruit, citrus, stone and slightly smoky nose that introduces detailed, pure and attractively intense middle weight flavors that possess excellent vibrancy on the taut, linear and refined finish. This isn’t quite as complex or concentrated as the ’02 version (see herein) but the sheer persistence is most impressive. And in the same fashion as the 2002, this has reached an inflection point of maturity where it could be enjoyed now or held for a few more years depending on how one prefers aged white burgs. For my taste, I would hold this for another 2 to 4 years but many people will find the current state of maturity to be perfect now.

agavin: I just have to mention again that Coche makes THE BEST village white Burgs. Period. It takes a producer at the level of Leflaive or PYCM to even make a grand cru as good as this village. It is a village, and so doesn’t have the depth or power of a great grand cru but it does just soar.


Smoked oyster Mousse. Beef jus en gelee, Crisp baguette. Like creamy smooth pure oyster concentrate. Fabulous paring with the caviar on top and with the champagne.


1985 Stony Hill Chardonnay. 89 Jeff Leve. With the color of an aged Sauternes, the oily textured, concentrated wine is low in acidity, with honeysuckly, caramel, citrus peel and butterscotch. When first poured, the wine seemed oxidized, but it improved in the glass after 10-20 minutes. This was quite a wine considering it was a 30 year old California Chardonnay.

agavin: I stole this review from my friend Jeff Leve (on a different night) — but it was dead on accurate with our bottle too.


1999 Domaine Leroy Corton-Charlemagne. Burghound 94. This wine possesses a genuinely staggering nose of superb complexity with all of the green apple and minerality that one associates with classic Corton-Charlemagne. The chiseled, precise, intense medium full flavors are rich, sappy and brilliantly delineated with superb depth and breadth on the explosive backend. A very serious wine that has so much mid-palate sap that it can actually be approached now with pleasure yet it will age for at least a decade, perhaps more. In a word, brilliant. Consistent notes.

agavin: Well, Leroy is one of those few producer’s who can make a wine to outshine a Coche village (the 99 Coche CC would be a fair pairing). This Leroy just had all that Grand Cru depth and complexity with a tremendous minerality (petrol). A real fresh bandaid quality.


Trout. Mi-cuit en roulade, fried shallot rangs, confit lemon zest & tomatoes, tuna just. This dish had a bright bright acidity to it that was really fabulous. The fish itself melted in the mouth like great sushi.


2002 Domaine Marc Morey & Fils Montrachet. Burghound 94. This is an exceptionally impressive effort by any standard with a pure, ripe and highly complex nose of fennel, white flower, citrus and orchard fruit aromas trimmed in a discreet touch of oak spice that can also be found on the rich, powerful, concentrated and equally pure big-bodied flavors that possess admirably vibrancy and outstanding length. Not surprisingly for a young Montrachet, this is still on its way up and it will be another 3 to 5 years before this peaks and it should be capable of holding at that level for up to another decade. A beautiful wine.

agavin: When we first tried this wine I tasted something unusual in the palette. Not a flaw, but one of those unusual complexities you get in great Burgundy that is unexpected. Perhaps it was what AM above describes as fennel, as I initially thought of it as slightly medicinal. This isn’t criticism but a note on the complexity possible in wines of this caliber.


Rabbit Rillette. 24hr confit, house pickled romaneco cauliflower. Sort of like a very french sandwich. The whole pickle and pate thing. Even the cauliflower tasted exactly like cornichon (i.e. vinegar). The mousse/pate itself was mild and a bit gamey, letting it work with and not overpower the Montrachet.


From my cellar: 2005 Etienne Sauzet Montrachet. Burghound 96. In contrast to the expressive noses of the 3 prior grands crus, this is positively discreet and almost reticent by comparison and only vigorous swirling would coax the broad-scaled nose to reveal itself, offering up notes of anise, peach, pear, citrus, orange blossom and honey that also merges seamlessly into textured, sweet, powerful and robust full-bodied flavors that possess a seductive mouth feel yet excellent precision and cut as well. This is a big wine and not overly refined but the sheer depth of material is almost hard to believe and as such, this will eventually transform into something very, very special. Patience required however.

agavin: As I have a whole bunch of these, and this is the first I opened, I’m pleased. It was a monster. On first taste powerful intense acid. Then we left it open for an hour or two and it hit the glass like a beast. The nose was all Montrachet with that coiled massive power that you only get from the world’s greatest Chardonnay vineyard. Wow. wow. My favorite in a line up of really stellar whites.


Wild pheasant terrine. Black truffles, organic arugula salad, mustard. I would have thought this was a country French pork pate, although perhaps a hair lighter. Either way just fabulous.


1949 A. de Luze & Fils Graves Royal. Old old sweet Bordeaux. There wasn’t so much sweet left, but for the age it was holding up darn well.


Foie Gras torchon. Fig confit, fines herbes salad, Grapefruit marmalade. Wow! Basically straight foie with fig. The salad had a nice astringency that countered the heft of the foie. Wow again. Just stupendous.


1999 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Burghound 96. In contrast to the general style of the vintage, this is still aromatically austere though with coaxing, reveals wonderfully complex aromas of a simply incredible array of black fruits, earth, spice, crushed herbs and notes of chocolate with flavors that are huge but fine, powerful but subtle and rich yet detailed with a stupendously long finish that offers intense minerality. This is genuinely stunning juice and not to be missed if you have the chance. Tasted multiple times with consistent notes.

agavin: Our bottle was surprisingly open and ready. There was an odd brett thing going on, and the balance wasn’t perfect, but this was an extremely hedonistic and enjoyable glass.


From my cellar: 2001 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Burghound 96. One of the finest wines of the vintage, this is simply a spectacular effort that has captured every bit of the potential it originally displayed in cask. Restrained and backward nose of a fantastically complex mix of blackberries, spice, cedar, soy, anise and dried herbs followed by full-bodied, multi-layered flavors of amazing length. Opulent and lavish yet all remains exquisitely balanced and this is astonishingly precise. A real stunner of a wine that is as classy and graceful as they come. As good and classy as the ’02 if not quite as structured.

agavin: The 2001 drank much younger than the 1999. Lots of acid and cherry tones. It just got better and better as the night went on. It needs a few more years but there was that kind of singing balance that bodes extremely well.


Duck Sausage. Housemade choucroute, orange cream sauce. I love sausage, and although I’m not usuually the biggest krout fan this dish was just flat out great too.


1991 Domaine Leroy Richebourg. Burghound 93. Madame Bize made superb ’91s virtually across her entire range and this wine is no exception with its deep, rich, complex nose and flavors that display remarkable depth, including earth and tobacco notes. The finish is subtly complex and still quite structured but the tannins are ripe and buffered by plenty of extract. In sum, this is dense and intense and should continue to improve for years to come. Consistent notes.

agavin: This was all Richebourg. It just reeked of the specific place and time.


1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg. Burghound 93. This too is reserved and restrained with an almost completely closed nose that reveals only glimpses of fresh black fruit even after extended aeration. The flavors however are rich and offer excellent detail and are underpinned by dense yet ripe tannins and good extract. I very much like the style of this though it is clearly for the patient and I suspect this will always have a rather strict personality. This has put on a bit of weight and a bit of richness since the big Richebourg tasting in ’01 and appears to be better balanced than the prior bottle but otherwise, it is quite similar.

agavin: A brooding powerhouse!


Tournedos Rossini. Potato puree. GORGE garlic glaze. Foie Gras. This was just the best beef dish ever. Haha, maybe, but it was just stupendously good (and rich). Pure tender beef, truffle, foie, and yummy potatoes and reduction. The sweetness of the glaze helped counter all that fat. It might be overkill, but it totally worked.


2007 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant. Burghound 94. An ultra elegant, pure and quite delicately fruited and spiced nose that is extremely fresh, floral and expansive that is more layered still as it introduces seductively textured, detailed and gorgeously delineated middle weight flavors that possess laser-like focus if less density than is usually seen with this wine. Indeed, this is rather like a ballerina with limited power and weight but the watch word here is purity, purity and purity. I quite like this but it will strike some as unduly light though I believe the underlying material is present such that it will add weight in bottle as it ages.

agavin: The oak was very present when we first poured it (as you’d expect for a way too young grand cru). But even from the get-go it just screamed RSV. As the evening wore on it opened and opened and opened. This will be a stellar (it was stellar) wine.


1990 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts. Burghound 94. This remains quite darkly colored with obviously ripe, borderline aromas that are clearly Vosne in origin with loads of spice and secondary nuances to the black fruit and earth aromas that are followed by sexy, sappy and intense middle weight flavors that culminate in a mineral-infused, sweet and energetic finish that delivers outstanding length. This is sufficiently ripe that it is perhaps not a beacon of terroir but it remains unmistakably Vosne in basic character. This is really quite impressive and to my taste, it has arrived at its peak though one that should hold for a number of years to come. Tasted multiple times with mostly consistent results.

agavin: The Beaux Monts was probably my favorite red of the night, and it was the only premier cru. It even tasted like it. As it really came off as full on Beaux Monts. But wow, what a terrior play. Just all VR spice and depth. Fabulous.


1834 Barbeito Madeira Malvazia Reserva Velha. 96 points. A wine made before the civil war! Strong cinnamon with brown notes. Beautiful with a lingering finish that goes on and on. Quite a lot of acidity for a 160 year old wine.

agavin: delicious!


Strawberry Rhubarb St Honore. Vanilla bean cream puffs, crisp puff pastry, vanilla chantilly. This was very French — and delicious. Light, sweet (perhaps more sweet than it would have been in France) and with that perfect pastry texture.


Chocolate Macaron.

Overall, this was just one of the best dinners we’ve ever done. And those of you who follow know that is a HIGH bar. Every element was in balance: setting, weather, people, food, wine. That is what wine (and hedonism) is all about. You can take the above (magnificent) wines and put them in a more clinical setting and they’d come off well — but when you pair it all up properly it rounds out the flaws and emphasizes the best qualities.

Bravo! (And thanks Adam for setting it all up)

more crazy Hedonist dinners here!


The after diner antics begin. You had to be there!

Related posts:

  1. Burgundy at Providence
  2. Valentino – 2004 Red Burgundy
  3. Melisse Madness
  4. JiRaffe Burgundy Blowout!
  5. Chili Crab Craze – Starry Kitchen
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Adam Fleischman, Allen Meadows, Burgundy, Champagne, Corton-Charlemagne, Cru (wine), Hancock Park, hedonists, Montrachet, Wine

Valentino – 2004 Red Burgundy

Feb28

Restaurant: Valentino Santa Monica [1, 2, 3]

Location: 3115 Pico Blvd  Santa Monica, CA 90405. (310) 829-4313

Date: February 27, 2014

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Fabulous!

_

Last year I went to an epic three night 2005 White Burgundy Dinner series (Part 1 can be found here), hosted by Burg-meister Don Cornwell. This year, he’s mixing it up a bit and we’re doing a 2004 Red Burgundy dinner and a separate 2006 White Burgundy tasting next week.

2004 red is a peculiar vintage. While plenty ripe, it has this reputation for the “green meanies,” a kind of odd herbaceous “green” taste. Don did a spectacular job arranging for nearly every major Grand Cru. This gives a pretty comprehensive sampling of 2004 Côte de Nuits.

This particular dinner is at Valentino, which has been a mainstay of the LA fine dining scene for decades. I first started coming here in about 1995 and it was a mind blowing change from the usual trattoria and red-sauce style Italians. Valentino is much closer to Michelin 2 star restaurant in Italy, although not as modernist as some of those are in recent years. If food in Italy turns you on, check out my Eating Italy segment.


Our private room. Notice the large table with a lot of space. This is important when you have 29 glasses a person!


Notice the awesome array of glasses in the background. Only about a third of them are visible. Few restaurants can handle this sort of thing, as they need over 400 stems of the same type and a dedicated Sommelier with sufficient experience and skill. Ours tonight was Julian Zaragoza, wine director, who has been at Valentino for around twenty years! He handled the whole wine service himself with extreme professionalism and personality.


Tonight’s menu.

Amuses


We begin with a magnum of: 1990 Alain Robert Champagne Blanc de Blancs Reserve Le Mesnil. IWC 94. Bright yellow-gold with a lazy bead. Powerfully scented, strikingly complex bouquet of singed peach, pear, turbinado sugar, floral honey, marzipan and smoky minerals. Deep, palate-staining citrus and buttery orchard fruit flavors manage to be rich and energetic at once, picking up honey and talc notes with air. The long, sappy finish features seductive blood orange, minerals and a strong echo of marzipan. While this is complex enough to drink now, it also has the concentration and energy to reward further patience.

agavin: To my taste, a lovely mature Champy. Lots of complexity.


Veal Tonnato Tartare. This wasn’t my favorite. It tasted like slightly fishy chicken salad (there was tuna mixed in here).


Crudita Of Seafood. This, however, had a lovely citrus zing to it.


Prosciutto With Burrata. And I adore both prosciutto and burrata, and the combination even more! Valentino was actually the first place I ever had burrata, way back in 1995!

Flight 1: Musigny


Ah, Musigny, often believed to be the most seductive and sensual of all the great Grand Crus.


2004 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny. Burghound 93. Not surprisingly, this really hasn’t budged much from my initial in-bottle review published in early 2007 and I repeat that review here as it’s entirely on track, both in terms of the description but also with respect to its evolution. A simply sublime mix of spicy, elegant, pure and sophisticated red and black fruit aromas that do possess the barest trace of crushed leaf blend into supple, rich and again, extremely pure, indeed crystalline medium full flavors that are restrained and backward but not stern like those of the Bonnes Mares, all wrapped in a vibrant finish of exceptional intensity. This is superbly well focused and almost etches itself into the palate though the tannic spine is well buffered by plenty of mid-palate sap. A complete wine that will also demand a bit of patience.

agavin: Spicey, woodiest of the flight. A bit bitter on the finish with sour red fruits and a hint of cork. Kept getting better in the glass.


2004 Joseph Drouhin Musigny. Burghound 93. An exotic and spicy nose features raspberry, red current, anise and clove notes that give way to sweet, classy and notably finely detailed flavors that are also relatively forward early but tighten up considerably on the backend. In most vintages, this is the undisputed class of the cellar and while it may ultimately be so once again, in 2004 it has competition. Still, lovely stuff by any standard.

agavin: nose smelled like pot. hot red fruits with an herbaceous green red berry finish. Reasonably pleasant.


2004 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Musigny. Burghound 91. A perfumed and airy nose of lavender, spice and distinct floral notes highlight the intense, structured and quite powerful full-bodied flavors that culminate in huge and mouth coating length. This is a big wine yet impeccably refined, pure and classy and the length is most impressive. Like the Amoureuses, 2004 is not a great vintage by the daunting standards of this wine but it’s certainly a solid effort.

agavin: totally corked. each time I tasted it I made a face.


2004 Domaine Leroy Chambolle-Musigny. Burghound 94. This is equally stylish and classy though completely different with a stunningly complex and ultra floral nose combining spice, earth and dark pinot fruit aromas that continue onto the detailed, powerful and fantastically long flavors that stain the palate with almost painful intensity and sap. This may very well equal the Vosne one day as the qualitative difference between the two is subtle indeed.

agavin: slightly cloudy and unfiltered. smells of red fruits. bright strawberry jam taste with a greeny finish. seemed to get worse in the glass, but still one of the better wines of the flight.


2004 Louis Jadot Musigny. Burghound 95. As good as the Bonnes Mares is, it’s immediately clear that there’s another dimension present as this is at once more elegant, more complex and classier as well. An explosive nose of black pinot fruit and penetrating spice notes lead to notably rich and ripe flavors that exude ample mid-palate extract and while the tannins are quite firm, they are also quite fine. This should prove to be one of the vintage’s longer lived examples and it could surprise to the upside as the underlying material is outstanding. The texture is also noticeably different than most of the other wines of the range as Lardière indicated that there was some whole cluster vinification here.

agavin: darker. sour cherry, like cherry coke with licorice. very jammy. unusual, but one of the best wines of the flight.


2004 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Burghound 96. This is also very cool and even more reserved at present, revealing only reluctant glimpses of very ripe and ultra spicy red and black berry fruit notes that are very pinot in character. The rich, full and powerful flavors are sweet, supple and utterly classy and the intensity this wine displays is seriously impressive and the superbly long and strikingly precise finish is crystalline in its purity and exactness. There is a rigorous element here that suggests this will require the better part of 15 years to be at its best but when it gets there, this is going to be a thrill ride. Readers know that I am not given to undue hyperbole but I love this style of wine as it’s at once pure, understated, graceful and utterly composed.

agavin: smelled corky. tasted corky (or at least bitter). lots of stemmy taste too. Better than the Roumier, but not very pleasant. The acidity and fruit was in there under the funk.


Agnollotti: Veal Ravioli With Brown Butter And Sage. A lovely classic Italian pasta. Very authentic. Soft meaty filling and a rich elegant butter sauce. I could have eaten 3 plates of this.

Flight 2: Bonnes Mares & Morey St Denis


The central nuits vineyards of Bonnes Mares, Clos de Denis, and Clos de la Roche.


Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares. Burghound 90. A discreet hint of wood spice frames a potent mix of violet, red and black fruits, earth, herb aromas and hints of game that give way to textured, sappy, firm and intense flavors that are both serious and firmly structured. This will require time to come around though there is reasonably good phenolic ripeness and, in the context of the vintage, solid finishing power and pop.

agavin: smelled and tasted corky at first. Got a little better, but not much.


From my cellar: 2004 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche. Burghound 91-94. A superbly complex nose combining a stylish mix of red berry liqueur, blue berry and black raspberry fruit aromas nuanced with game, tea, smoke and hints of earth and leather. The big and well-muscled yet refined flavors are structured, firm and explosive and this finishes with a flourish as it’s at once classy and stunningly pure. Another terrific Lignier Clos de la Roche in a long string of them; just be aware that this will require moderate patience.

agavin: nice red fruits. a bit hot, but a pleasant wine and one of the best of the flight.


From my cellar: 2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Bonnes Mares. Burghound 92-95. he only wine in the range to display any reduction yet it’s not enough to hide the intense and utterly seductive red and black cherry nose that is classy, refined and pure followed by detailed and like the Clos de Vougeot, unusually fine for the appellation yet there is no absence of the classic Bonnes Mares power and muscle, all wrapped in a mineral-infused and incredibly long finish. Despite how beautiful this is, the overall character is almost understated. The Bèze might display a bit more complexity but this is my stylistic favorite of the group.

agavin: muted on the nose. Good fruit but a little bitter on an otherwise long finish.


2004 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes. Burghound 92. A stunningly complex mixture of earthy and animale red and black pinot fruit aromas lead to brooding, intense and jaw droppingly powerful and concentrated, chewy and complex flavors that possess a seriously long finish. There isn’t quite the raw depth of the Clos St. Denis at this point but it’s a very high quality ’04.

agavin: smelled of red fruits. unusual chocolate/coffee thing in the taste. Very pronounced and not unpleasant, but like someone poured chocolate liqueur in there. Perhaps a little green?


2004 Lucien Le Moine Bonnes Mares. Burghound 91-94. A superbly elegant and pure nose featuring dark pinot fruit and violet aromas of terrific complexity precede precise and almost racy flavors of exceptional freshness and vigor that explode on the hugely long finish. This is a gorgeous combination of style and grace yet with the barely concealed muscle and power of a fine Bonnes Mares. This will be accessible early yet the balance is so good that it should age well too.

agavin: muted nose. nice red fruits with a hint of coffee/coco too.


2004 Domaine Ponsot Clos St. Denis Vieilles Vignes. Burghound 93. This is one genuinely gorgeous wine with ripe, elegant and dense aromas and one can literally smell the concentration as the fruit is incredibly dense, nuanced and complex. The flavors are equally potent as this stains and drenches the palate with chewy pinot extract and culminates in a textured, structured and superbly long finish. This is a serious old style burgundy that possesses that “wow” factor but one that will need at least a decade in the cellar first.

agavin: ripe red nose. Deep red fruit taste with lots of spice. Finish continues for a long time, and was quite pleasant. One of the better wines of the flight.


2004 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares. Burghound 91-93. A subtle touch of wood frames the intense violet, blue berry and discreet earth tones that complement big, rich, concentrated and powerful flavors that possess serious mid-palate density and outstanding volume. This is delicious, sappy and robust with the best phenolic ripeness of any wine to this point.

agavin: hard to place the nose. Tasted bigger, deeper and more oaked. Purple on the palette. Probably needs some time.


Pan Roasted Napa Quail “In Porchetta Tartufata. A nice dish. The meat with the cheese was great and there was tons of truffle. The pile of greens with no dressing was a tad odd though.

Flight 3: Chambertin


Chambertin, the northernmost Grand cru, and generally one of my favorites.


2004 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin. Burghound 93. The difference between Chambertin and Clos de Bèze is sharply etched in 2004 as this is cooler, bigger, richer and more powerful though less elegant and with a more limited range of spices specifically and aromatic breadth in general. The medium full flavors are reserved, tight, precise and very pure with extraordinarily good punch and precision, all wrapped in a firm, dusty and linear finish. I particularly like the mouth coating quality of the flavors as there is ample dry extract here, which serves to perfectly buffer the firmly tannic spine. Outstanding stuff and while not a truly great Rousseau Chambertin, it’s knocking on the door.

agavin: smells of oak and fruit. a tiny bit bitter at first, but after some time in the glass shaped up quite nicely.


2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. Burghound 93-95. The aromatic profile here is completely different with more complexity to the gorgeous mix of red and black pinot fruit, earth, spice, underbrush, smoke, game and iron notes that continue onto the broad, expansive and remarkably intense flavors that culminate in an unusually ripe, mouth coating and long finish. There is admirably good extract here and while the firm tannic spine will require at least a decade to really unwind, the mid-palate concentration is up to the challenge. In sum, this is one striking effort that exudes class.

agavin: strong nose and fairly classic gevry, although certainly there are greeny hints of the vintage.


2004 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. Burghound 93. A densely fruited and superbly complex nose of spice, earth, ripe red fruit aromas, leather and underbrush leads to rich, supple, elegant and pure flavors where the structure arrives all at once on the seriously long finish. This is not a big Bèze by the usual Rousseau standards yet the explosive finish and outstanding depth suggest that this will age well and hold for much longer.

agavin: very beze nose. red fruits with a long (slightly green/bitter) finish and a lot of power.


2004 Domaine Leroy Gevrey-Chambertin. Burghound 95. Again, the aromatic profile is completely different with a much deeper emphasis on iron-infused earth, underbrush and an understated sauvage quality that leads to stylish, powerful and almost implausibly complex flavors that exude a sense of raw power yet the overall impression is one of control and near perfect balance. A stunner of a wine that has complexity to burn.

agavin: funkier and unfilitered. Some green here.


2004 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin. 92 points. Absolutely lovely wine packed with some dark fruit. It is not at all green as one could expect from this vintage.

agavin: more unctuous grape than the other wines in the flight, but a hint of green too.


2004 Claude Dugat Charmes-Chambertin. Burghound 90-93. A bit of reduction subdues the otherwise pretty and spicy red berry fruit aromas tinged with violets and a hint of wood spice but does not continue onto the rich, sweet and terrifically precise medium full flavors that offer serious depth and a good deal more mid-palate concentration all the while maintaining near perfect balance. An impressive wine that is at once generous yet detailed. Lovely stuff and one that should repay up to a decade in the cellar before drinking well over another.

agavin: I tasted a hint of cork/green, not particularly pleasant.


2004 Bernard Dugat-Py Mazis-Chambertin. Burghound 92-95. The first wine to display a hint of wood spice that frames explosive notes of cherries, raspberries, earth, game and an interesting smoky character introduces dense, sappy, mouth coating and palate staining flavors that are considerably finer than either the Charmes or the Mazoyères and possess genuinely stunning complexity. This is a classy, beautifully precise effort of real style and harmony and I like the subtle floral note that arrives on the backend. In a word, breathtaking.

agavin: searing powerful finish. Fairly nice.


Bison Filet With Red Wine Reduction. This was the weakest of the main dishes. Nothing really wrong with it, but kinda meat and potatoes.

Flight 4: Vosne-Romanée


The pearl of the cote: Vosne-Romanee!


2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant. Burghound 92. A deft touch of wood frames exuberantly expressive and luxurious black fruit nose nuanced by a huge range of spices including anise, clove and cinnamon with notes of tea and hoisin as well. The moderately full flavors are sappy, rich and sweet with ample volume and a palate drenching finish that benefits from an underlying sense of vibrancy. There is real energy here, which seems to collect and focus the flavors. Terrific stuff and exceptionally long with no trace of vegetal character on either the nose or the finish.

agavin: I knew instantly it was RSV. The whole flight reeked of vosne (in a good way) but the distinct RSV character was obvious. Nice finish.


2004 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée. Burghound 95. Another step up in aromatic complexity with classic Vosne spice notes as well as the Asian spice cabinet notes associated with a fine RSV that add nuance to the potent mix of red and black pinot fruit aromas that merge into rich, mouth coating, concentrated and powerful flavors that put the attribute of class on parade. This is an exceptionally stylish wine with a richness and velvety quality that is incredibly seductive.

agavin: lots of vosne spice. very nice.


2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg. Burghound 93. This is in the same stylistic camp as the Grands Echézeaux as it is surprisingly understated and subtle with an intensely floral nose of red and black fruit aromas that are nuanced and beautifully elegant, merging seamlessly into linear, reserved, indeed almost brooding flavors that are as once supple yet precise and detailed, all wrapped in a powerful and muscular finish that delivers striking length. This is a really interesting wine because it’s a wine of contrasts yet it works because there is a gorgeous combination of finesse and power and again, I really like the sense of drive and energy here as well as the first rate balance. A terrific ’04.

agavin: I was pretty sure this was Richebourg. It had dark red fruits and a long lip smacking finish that was quite delicious. One of my two favorites of the flight (and the night).


2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche. Burghound 95. This too is sublime in its subtlety and grace with ineffably pure aromas and it strikes a balance between the opulence of the RSV and the restraint of the GE with an expressive yet ultra fine nose of rose petals, violets and seductive spice notes that introduce unbelievably refined flavors that seem crafted from silk and lace, culminating in a linear, mouth coating finish that detonates like a bomb and lasts and lasts. At present, this is taut and precise with the lithe muscularity of a world class gymnast yet it is not lean or unduly tight as there is a generosity to the mid-palate that serves to buffer the underlying tannic spine that will permit this to age for decades. This is clearly a great wine that epitomizes the concept of power without weight.

agavin: I thought it was the DRC RSV, probably mostly because I have a lot more RSV than La Tache. Either way it was great. There was more oak on the nose and it was clearly young, but it had a long lovely finish with a lot of vosne spice.


2004 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Richebourg. Burghound 92-95. I was actually a bit surprised by just how expressive this wine already is as I was expecting something akin to the grouchier Clos de Vougeot yet the kaleidoscopic nose is breathtaking in its breadth of spicy red and black fruit aromas and notes of leather, tea, earth, iron, wet stone and gamy undertones. The big, muscular, robust and powerful full-bodied flavors offer plenty of intensity yet no lack of elegance and while it can’t match the RSV in this regard, there is even more complexity today and more depth of material. Terrific stuff and highly recommended.

agavin: oak on the nose and an extremely pleasant lip smacking finish. I was pretty such it was Richebourg.


From my cellar: 2004 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Romanée St. Vivant. Burghound 93. This displays a similar kaleidoscopic nose to that of the Suchots but with even more spice and hard as it is to believe, even more refinement and the aromas just ooze class. The ultra pure, sweet, precise and beautifully detailed flavors maintain their focus from start to the dazzlingly long and palate staining linear finish that also displays a subtle herbal component.

agavin: there was a slight taint or funk on the nose. The finish was long, but perhaps a little weird. It got better in the glass.


2004 Bouchard Père et Fils La Romanée. Burghound 92. Like the Liger-Belair version (see Issue 21), this is blessed with an absolutely stunning nose that is genuinely kaleidoscopic in its breadth and complexity featuring a touch of wood that frames black spice, earth, underbrush, hints of Asian spices, soy and hoisin. In certain important aspects, this quite resembles the Reignots, particularly the cool personality because even though the nose is amazingly expressive, the flavors sit back and wait for you to come to them. I like the refined texture here and together with the sappiness and excellent length, this makes a serious palate impression. Classic La Romanée in every respect whose only nit is the lack of great concentration.

agavin: a great wine. I thought it might be the La Tache from its sheer power, but I rarely have either La Tache or La Romanee so what do I know. The finish had a long complex Vosne spice thing going on. A lovely wine.


2004 Lucien Le Moine Richebourg. Burghound 92-95. A relatively reserved nose of spicy black cherry fruit with hints of musk and anise framed by discreet hints of wood highlight intense, ultra pure and very classy flavors that offer extraordinary depth and a fresh, vibrant and perfectly balanced finish. This too is very firmly structured yet the tannins are fine and while this will require time, it should be at its best in 10 to 12 years. A most impressive effort.

agavin: Le Moine seems to be making a more forward unctuous wine than everyone else. This was the deepest, most extracted of the flight with an almost un-pinot like rich grape quality, almost like a Sagratino or something. Lip smacking.


Colorado Lamb Chops With Bronte’s Pistachio Crust.

Flight 5: Dessert


2004 Turley Roussanne LPR Alban Estate Vineyard. IWC93. (8.5% alcohol and 30% residual sugar, from fruit harvested on December 15 with a small percentage of botrytized berries brought on through the use of overhead sprinklers) Deep orange-gold. Apricot liqueur, golden raisin, maple syrup, vanilla, honey and clove on the nose. Thick, fat and supersweet, with the wine’s ten grams per liter of acidity lost in its sugar. An extremely glyceral wine that winemaker Jordan says is lower in sugar and acidity than the 2005 (which came from grapes harvested two months earlier!), and less “electric.” Notes of honey and nuts on the extremely long and sweet back end.

agavin: a lovely dessert wine.


Poached Pear Tart. Good for what it was, but this kind of mild dessert is never a standout for me.


The lineup.


And just a few of our glasses! At least a flight or two had been cleared already!

There is a lot to say about this tasting. First of all, Valentino did a great job as usual. The service was impeccable, and this is a difficult task (pouring lots of big blind flights). The food was good, although I could have used an extra carby course near the end, like a giant risotto. Erick and I had to take care of that after (see below).

I’ve never tasted such a comprehensive horizontal survey of Red Burgundy at once before. The incredibly distinct terrior of the different communes and vineyards was readily apparent. Really obvious and that was nice to see. Each flight smelled and tasted of its appellation.

2004 has a very particular vintage character, and it’s not a great one. All the flights except for the Vosne one had it in spades. I’ve tasted that herbaceous thing before, but never in such frequency. It stands in counter point to the bright fruit and mars the wines. I’m certainly not going to invest in the Roumiers (not that I was).

I was also surprised by the amount of cork. Not everyone seems to taste it, but I can’t stand those wet cardboard glasses. Normally, I only get about 1 in 100 badly corked bottles. We had at least 3 out of 28. Bad luck? Was I confusing the vintage character for cork? I don’t think so.

Still, there were a lot of good wines in there, if not at the percentage they would have been in a better vintage. The entire Vosne flight was great, and some superb.

Other big tasting dinners from this group:

2005 White Burgundy part 1

2005 White Burgundy part 2

2005 White Burgundy part 3

2006 White Burgundy


The food was quite good, but really wasn’t enough to soak up all that wine. Erick and I went down the street afterward and grabbed some ramen!

Related posts:

  1. Burgundy at Bouchon – Faiveley
  2. JiRaffe Burgundy Blowout!
  3. Valentino – 2005 White Burg part 2!
  4. Burgundy at Bouchon – Jadot
  5. Burgundy Vintage Chart
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Bonnes Mares, Burgundy, Burrata, Champagne, Cote de Nuits, Cru (wine), Dessert, Foodie Club, Santa Monica California, Second Dinner, Valentino, Wine

Red Medicine is the Cure

Dec25

Restaurant: Red Medicine [1, 2, 3]

Location: 8400 Wilshire Blvd. Beverly Hills, Ca. 90211. 323-651-6500.

Date: Dec 22, 2010

Cuisine: Modernized Vietnamese

Rating: Pretty awesome!

 

I’m a loyal reader of Kevin Eats and two weeks ago when he posted an opening night review of a new Vietnamese inspired restaurant named Red Medicine I instantly knew I had to go. Boy am I glad I did. I love good traditional Vietnamese for its intricate flavor palette (see my review here). This new place takes it to a new level, updating and modernizing. This is highly innovative stuff — at least when you consider the sea of Japanese and Italian clones that overwhelm our fair city.

Vietnamese is tough stuff to pair with red wine, but a Grand Cru Burgundy is soft and fruity enough to manage. Parker gives this one 93 points and says, “I loved the sweet cassis aromas of the 2002 Echezeaux as well as its powerful, intense, syrupy personality. Medium to full-bodied and gorgeously ripe, it bastes the palate with thick black fruit flavors. In addition, this wine reveals great depth and a lengthy, fruit-packed finish. Projected maturity: 2007-2017.”

The menu. This is all small dishes (the way I like it).  We ordered 12 savories and 3 deserts for 4 people and that was about perfect.

“KELLEY’S MOM’S FARM EGG / brassicas, pickled rose hips,  chili, fried garlic, boiled peanuts, lovage.” This dish typifies what the chef’s are doing here. It mixes all sorts of flavors, and a lot of fresh herbs, vegetables, and pickled vegetables. The peanuts were those large soft Asian ones and this egg was so soft it ended up in the dish like egg noodles. The overall flavor was salty and herby — and delicious. Plus HOT. Those red peppers were a bit of surprise, but a pleasant burn.

“fluke cured with lime leaf, radishes,  charred cucumber, pine needle.” This was another very interesting flavor combo. Hot again (there are serrano peppers in there) and strong notes of basil and pickle. Delicious!

“BEEF / fermented soy bean, bacon XO, chinese eggplant,  purple cabbage, celery stem, nuoc cham.” The beef and eggplant had an intense charred flavor, like filet minion BBQ or something. The purple cabbage paired with it like a kind of Asian variant on the cole slaw one might have with Southern BBQ.  Wow.

“CHICKEN DUMPLINGS / caramelized sugar, pork fat, lemongrass, confitures.” The elements (chicken, mint, pickles, scallions, sauce) are combined on a lettuce leaf as shown below. I nabbed a healthy blast of the red stuff. Hot again!

Other than the heat, this wasn’t as strongly flavored as the other dishes (and I like strong). It was good, but not as good.

“kabocha, burnt onion, chinese sausage, chrysanthemum,  creme fraiche.” This was basically BBQ squash with yoghurt and sweet BBQ sauce. It was really good.

“kohlrabi, tofu cream, grapefruit,  fish sauce, lettuces, sunchokes.” This was my least favorite dish of the night. Again, not bad, not just not as exciting. It was cool and refreshing.

“BEEF TARTARE / mustard leaf, water chestnut, spicy herbs, nuoc leo, chlorophyll.” Under the green is the beef tartare. You shovel it on the garlic rice crackers. It was incredible. Not intense, but a lovely flavor.

My brother enjoys some of the squash.

“WILD STRIPED BASS / brown butter-soy milk, verbena,  pomelo, raw chestnut, lettuce stems.” This very nicely cooked fish was bathing in this garlicky butter sauce. Nice too, but pretty rich.

“CRISPY SPRING ROLL / dungeness crab, calamansi, pea pods, fines herbs, chili.” Excellent varient on the crispy spring roll tradition. I liked the creamy bits of sauce.

Red Medicine has a very nice list of sweet whites, including many from Zind Humbrecht. They have a $25 corkage (normal enough), but if you buy a bottle they waive it totally. So I bought this nice riesling for $55 and essentially it cost me $5 (I saved 2 corkages). This is probably a 92-93 point Spatlese. Its apricot and pear sweetness did pair perfectly with the food.

“‘BANH MI’ / foie gras, pate de campagne.” Wow these were good. The fois meshed nicely with the bit of serrano, the pickles etc.

“PORK / caramelized black vinegar and honey, prunes, sorrel, dried almond.” This was a tremendous BBQ pork. The fluffy stuff is almond poppy seed puff rice. It mostly added texture and a vague nuttiness. The pork however was incredibly soft, the sauce almost mole like. The net affect was a pit like South Carolina pulled pork without the vinegar.

“DUCK / 5-spice, charred frisee, chicory, tamarind syrup,  grains of paradise.” This duck was also awesome, like confit — or maybe it was confit.

The open kitchen. The place was packed too, even on a holiday Wednesday, after having been open a mere two weeks.

The pastry chef here is world class.

“COCONUT BAVAROIS / coffee, condensed milk, thai basil, peanut croquant, chicory.” This was fantastic. All sorts of interesting textures (check out those fish eye looking things), and a soft taste of coffee, a good dose of peanut butter — and basil!

“LEMONGRASS POTS DE CREME / sweet potato, orange blossom, red bull, bergamot.” Creme Brulee basically, but lemongrass! Unusualy, but excellent.

“BITTER CHOCOLATE / kecap manis, oats, pear, parsnip,brown butter.” This was also good, crunchy, drier — pretty.

I’m very excited about this place and its new flavors. I’ll head back soon. I hope, though, that they switch up the menu with great regularity. Not that what is there isn’t great, but it would seem a waste to stagnate this kind of creativity.

For a second meal at Red Medicine (different dishes for the most part), see HERE.

Related posts:

  1. Food as Art: Little Saigon
  2. Quick Eats: Osteria Latini 2
  3. Swish Swish – Mizu 212
  4. Melisse – How much would a Woodcock…
  5. Brunch at Tavern – again
By: agavin
Comments (3)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Barbecue, beef, Beverly Hills California, Chicken, Cooking, Cru (wine), Dessert, duck, Food, Nước chấm, Pickling, Red Medicine, Restaurant, reviews, side dishes, vegetarian, Vietnamese cuisine, Wilshire Boulevard, Wine tasting descriptors

Melisse – How much would a Woodcock…

Dec16

Restaurant: Melisse [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

Location: 1104 Wilshire Blvd.Santa Monica, CA 90401. (310) 395-0881

Date: December 15, 2010

Cuisine: California French

Rating: Awesome. Top of its game!

 

My foodie friend EP wanted to do a final Foodie Club night before he left for year end vacation so we hastily (24 hours) gathered a few like-minded gluttons. It took a bit of calling to find someplace that had space and was willing to allow the mega tasting menu on short notice. This same group had gone to Melisse last March, and we arranged to return. Chef Josiah Citrin promised to mix it up, and do something extreme. We were game! (hint hint)  The result is this modified Carte Blanche Menu ++ special edition.

The first amuse is a Melisse staple. Grapes two ways. Out of the spoon are half grapes coated in goat cheese and pistachio. On the spoon sphereized grapes dusted with pistachio. The first has a nice contrast of the sharp cheese and the fruit, the second is an explosion of grapeness.

There were four of us, and I had brought 3 bottles of red, but the Sommelier wisely suggested I pick a white off the list to start. Knowing the chef I opted for this Chablis. I love good Chablis. Parker gives this one a 93.  “The Dauvissats’ 2006 Chablis La Forest (a.k.a. “La Foret” a.k.a. “La Forets”) smells effusively of peony, citrus, and peach. It is strikingly bitter-sweet in its alternation of peach and citrus with peach kernel-like cyanic bitterness; displays deep chalkiness; and finishes with amazing grip and length. Past the nose, this is one of the least generous of 2006 Chablis, being remarkably tight and for a young 2006, but very impressively concentrated. The 2005 rendition was almost severe in its concentration, yet also very impressive. It should merit following for 10-12 years, and is probably best rested for a year or two. The 1999 tastes glorious, and youthful today; the still almost sharply-citric 1996, like liquid chalk and white truffle.
Vincent Dauvissat’s 2006s were finished with both alcoholic fermentation and malolactic transformation by January. Overall – and particularly in the Grand Cru range – Dauvissat’s 2005s are marginally less exciting than his 2006s, and in certain instances, surprisingly, more opulent and exotically ripe. In both recent vintages, Dauvissat’s wines (even the generics) are pushing 14% alcohol, although in tasting the 2006s in particular, you’d never guess this.”

And there is perhaps nothing better in the world to pair Chablis with than a bit of oyster. This “Carsbad Del Sol Oyster, Finger Limes and Chives” was as Chef Citrin called it, “essence of oyster.” Dominated by a pleasant brininess, like early morning at the sea side. This is not for everyone, but if you are a seafood lover like me. Oh boy. And the mineral tones of the Chablis just sang with it.

Next up is this “Hokkaido Scallop, Santa Barbara uni, Cauliflower, Lemon.” Pretty isn’t it? The scallop was luscious, but the uni was to die for. Not even a hint of fishy, it had a rich nutty tone. I was temped to lick the dish.

Because this is such a delightfully elaborate (aka EPIC) meal, I’m going to show the sequential presentation of many dishes. This “Artichoke soup, Parmesan Fritters, white truffle” begins with the solid ingredients. There is a bit of relish underneath the fritter.

Then the soup is added. The soup itself was the perfect infusion of cream and artichoke. Every spoonful counjured up the vegetable. The fritter was a little cheese explosion. Bravo!

No trip to Melisse would be complete without the classic, “Egg Caviar, Lemon Creme Fraiche, American Osetra Caviar.” It’s a classic for a reason. The Creme Fraiche is so good, and there is raw egg yolk at the bottom. Amazing combo, particularly with the little toast stick.

We killed the Chablis during that round of “starters” and it was time to move onto this bad boy. The 1991 Hermitage La Pavillon! 100 points of perfection. “This is a Le Pavilion of mythical proportions. Produced from extremely old vines, some dating from the mid-nineteenth century, with yields averaging under 15 hectoliters per hectare, this is the richest, most concentrated and profound wine made in Hermitage. The 1991 Ermitage Le Pavilion follows the pattern of the 1989 and 1990-it is another perfect wine. The saturated black/purple color is followed by a compelling bouquet of spices, roasted meats, and black and red fruits. Enormously concentrated yet with brilliant focus and delineation to its awesomely endowed personality, this extraordinary wine should age effortlessly for three plus decades. Very powerful and full, yet displaying silky tannin, this is a seamless beauty! Anticipated maturity: 2001-2035.”

And the bread arrives. I went for a piece of bacon, and a  basil brioche.

“Seared Foie Gras & Pheasant Consomme, Foie Gras Agnolotti, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Shiso Infused Pheasant Consomme.”

The soup is added. The ingredients themselves were great. But it was the broth that was mind boggling. Combining the rich taste of pheasant, with the bits of fat melted off the fois in the consomme, with the bright tones of the Shiso (a leaf I adore, in the mint family). Oh my. It was incredible. It reminded me of the broth from the Urwasawa meal we had 10 months ago.

And the hits keep on rolling. “Santa Barbara Ridge back Prawn, Pummelo, Shellfish Jus.” The sweet meat of this puppy meshed perfectly with the citrus butter tang of the sauce. I  had to use the remains of my bread to mop it all up.

What is an epic French meal during truffle season without some fresh white truffles!

“White Truffle Risotto, Carnaroli Rice, Mascarpone, Shaved White Truffles.” There is a little Risotto under that sea of truffle foam. It had a nice soft cheesiness to offset the delicate Umami flavors of the truffles.

Now we’ve killed half a bottle each and it’s time to go bordeaux. Parker gives this 96 points. “What sumptuous pleasures await those who purchase either the 1996 or 1995 Pichon-Lalande. It is hard to choose a favorite, although the 1995 is a smoother, more immediately sexy and accessible wine. It is an exquisite example of Pichon-Lalande with the Merlot component giving the wine a coffee/chocolatey/cherry component to go along with the Cabernet Sauvignon’s and Cabernet Franc’s complex blackberry/cassis fruit. The wine possesses an opaque black/ruby/purple color, and sexy, flamboyant aromatics of pain grille, black fruits, and cedar. Exquisite on the palate, this full-bodied, layered, multidimensional wine should prove to be one of the vintage’s most extraordinary success stories. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2020. The 1995/1996 vintages are two of the greatest back to back efforts Pichon-Lalande has ever produced, including the 1982/1983 vintages.”

Erick and Simon are starting to show the wear and tear of the evening’s pleasures.

“Eastern Tile Fish ‘Amadai’, Kohlrabi, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Carrots, Cucumber Infused Consomme.”

As the consomme went down the sensuous summer smell of cucumber wafted back at us. The fish was perfectly done, but it was the consomme that I really found marvelous here.

And now for the main event. Two roasted Scottish Woodcocks!

“Scottish Woodcock, Truffled Brioche, Navet, Sauce Perigourdine.”

After saucing. In the front is a bit of breast on the brioche, at the back half the head and beak, and on the right the thigh and leg (and claw). First of all, the sauce had this rich truffle quality that was just outstanding. Then the breast was a perfect medium rare example of poultry at its finest. Chef Citrin informed us that these puppies had been aging for 3 or 4 weeks! It was wonderfully gamey. Seriously gamey. Intensely gamey. The thigh had a rare almost bloody quality. But oh so good.

Chef Citrin shows us off an example of the bird (he’s the white sleeved arms). Wild caught in Scotland. He personally plucked the feathers on ours.

I have to show off the remains because you can see the bird brain a bit better. That long sticky thing by the knife is the beak, and there the skull with half the brain. We were pressured into sucking on the brain, some of us with more gusto than others (Erick!). It had a rich taste, not unlike bone marrow.

The game goes into overtime with the final savory, “Venison Loin, Juniper-Praline Yam, Chanterelles, Chickory, Poivrade Sauce.”

Sauced. This venison was perfect, incredibly tender and flavorful. The Yam was like a desert, incredible, almost like pecan and pumpkin pie together.

Les Fromages.

Spiced pears and candied cumquats.

One of my favorite cheese in the world, Eppoisses. Strong, gooey, stinky!

Lower left: Pont-l’Eveque

Orange center: 18 month aged Gouda

Lower right: Fourme d’Ambert

Right center: Bourgogne (i think)

Upper right: Epoisses de Bourgogne

Upper left: Selsurcheres (sic, couldn’t spell well enough to find on google), goat cheese

“Vanilla Yoghurt, Strawberry Compote, Strawberry Sorbet.” I’ve had this before, but I didn’t mind. Basically strawberries and cream. Yum!

After warming up with the 1995, we rolled back to the 1989 Lalande. Incredible! “Speaking of superior vintages, Pichon-Lalande’s 1989, although not as profound as the 1995, 1994, 1986, 1983, or 1982, is a beautifully made wine. It exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, and a sweet, roasted nose of rich cassis fruit, herbs, and vanilla. Lush and round, this medium to full-bodied, nicely-textured, layered Pichon-Lalande possesses low acidity, outstanding ripeness, and beautiful purity and balance. It is already drinking surprisingly well, so owners should not hesitate to pull a cork. It should continue to offer rich, seductive drinking for another 15+ years.”

Another dessert repeat — but again we didn’t mind. “Chocolate, Chocolate, Coffee, Chocolate Souffle, Chocolate Peanut Butter Crunch, Coffee and Mascarpone.” The souffle gets its little injection. All are great, but the coffee and the crunch are my faves.

I’ve had passion fruit desserts at Melisse before, but this was a slightly new take. “Passion Fruit Parfait, Lemongrass and Coconut.” There is tapioca in the “soup” beneath. Very interesting complement. Very south east Asian in flavor profile, and refreshing.

The petite fours. I’m not a huge cannelle fan. The fruit with Creme Fraiche was great though. I’d have preferred the classic marshmallows and pate de fruits myself, but this is about my only “complaint” with the entire meal, so I think I’ll survive.

Our special custom menu.

Reuben and I before the meal. I neglected to get a photo of how we looked 4.5 hours later!!

Chef Josiah Citrin pulled out all the stops for this meal, and it showed. Hands down spectacular! The restaurant has two Michelin stars, and it deserves every ounce of them. Personally, I’d put this meal up against any I’ve had in France at a three-star. The service is amazing too. The setting is not as fully formal as some French three-stars, or the service quite so orchestrated (that level is more amusement than actually pleasant), and there are no zany carts for teas and sugars, but the food and creativity demonstrate Melisse’s deserved position as one of America’s top kitchens. Not only were the ingredients worthy of a Roman Consul’s plate, but  the masterful command of flavors were in full view.

Bravo!

For another Melisse meal, click here.

Or for other Foodie Club meals, click here.

Related posts:

  1. Food as Art: Melisse
  2. Food as Art: Bistro LQ
  3. Food as Art: Ortolan
  4. Food as Art: Ludobites 6.0
  5. Food as Art: Saddle Peak Lodge
By: agavin
Comments (7)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Bordeaux, Burgundy, Chablis, Cheese, Cooking, Creme Fraiche, Cru (wine), Dessert, Egg, Epoisses, Food, Foodie Club, France, Fromage, Hermitage, Melisse, Michelin, Oyster, poultry, Prawn, Restaurant, reviews, Risotto, scallop, side dishes, Truffles, two-star, Wine, woodcock

Food as Art: Melisse

Nov04

Restaurant: Melisse [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

Location: 1104 Wilshire Blvd.Santa Monica, CA 90401. (310) 395-0881

Date: March 3, 2010

Cuisine: California French

Rating: Awesome, but heart stopping.

 

I’ve been going to Melisse for years but I could never convince a whole table to try the chef’s “Carte Blanche” menu. Even my ever-patient wife wasn’t up to it. So I went last March with two other glutton gourmands (my Foodie Club) and we went to town. We even added in some supplements. This meal was 7-8 months ago so I apologize for lapses in my memory, hopefully made up for by pretty pictures.

The first Amuse was grapes done two ways, on the right covered in goat cheese and a nut, and on the left spherized.

I brought wine from my cellar as usual. A meal of this magnitude called for a Grand Cru burgundy. In this case a 1995 Mazis-Chambertin. I’ve long been a burg-hound, and this didn’t disappoint.

Melisse has excellent bread in the modern French style. I’m particularly partial to the bacon bread. This meal was also used by both my friend Erick and I as beta testing for our DSLR based food photography. After having to stand back from the table and annoy other guests with a big flash I went out that week and bought a 50mm compact macro lens and a macro flash ring. Now I’m golden. Food is a tricky subject because while it doesn’t move, the natural habitat is often dark and it’s a small subject that must often be filmed from very close (normal lenses don’t like to focus under two feet).

I can’t say I remember what this amuse was, but the Japanese pottery is pretty. If I had to guess I’d say herring or mackerel of some sort.

I think this was Fennel Flan, Valencia Orange Gelee, Cashew Froth. This is the kind of dish Melisse excels at. Things involving cream.

I can’t remember this either, but it’s a good bet here that when something looks creamy or buttery, it tastes great.

“Egg Caviar, Lemon Creme Fraiche and American Osetra Caviar.” A Melisse classic. This has a wonderful creamy/eggy ness.

“Trio of Melisse Foie Gras. Dated Confiture, Pineapple Gastrique, Tarragon.” Because one fois isn’t enough.

In no time the three of us had plowed through the Mazis-Chambertin and I had to pull out the 1989 Lynch Bages. This was the first great wine I ever bought when I began serious collecting (and drinking) in ’96. It’s remained a nostalgic favorite of mine ever since. Parker gives it 95 points and says, “The style of the two vintages for Lynch Bages parallels the style of the 1989 and 1990 Pichon-Longueville-Baron. In both cases, the 1990 is the more forward, flattering, and delicious to drink wine, in contrast to the more massive, backward, tannic, and potentially superior 1989. The opaque purple-colored 1989 is less evolved and showy. However, it looks to be a phenomenal example of Lynch Bages, perhaps the finest vintage in the last 30 years. Oozing with extract, this backward, muscular, dense wine possesses great purity, huge body, and a bulldozer-like power that charges across the palate. It is an enormous wine with unbridled quantities of power and richness. The 1989 requires 5-8 years of cellaring; it should last for three decades. These are two superb efforts from Lynch Bages.”

This is the “Truffle Egg.” It wasn’t on the menu, but I’ve wanted to try one for some time. We were going to each order one but the waiter wisely convinced us to share. It’s a crazy poached egg like thing in a truffle butter sauce with a buttery foam on top. Then…

Fresh black truffles are shaved on top.

Voila! It tastes as good as it looks.

This single shrimp and single stalk of asparagus from a specific California farm was quite excellent. The shrimp was almost lobster-like. Buttery sauce of course.

I think this was a mushroom/scallop soup with a Japanese-like flavor pallete.

And this was a monkfish with various vegetables and sauces.

Sonoma duck, config of leg, and breast. Quail egg. This was really tasty, particularly the breast and everything when smeared in the egg yolk.

Beef of some sort, including the marrow.

And the Carte de fromage. My favorite. Melisse has always had one of the best cheese carts in town.

Get a look at that runny Vacheron or Epoisses in the middle (the orange round one).

We ended up with these.

This was basically strawberries and cream. It was amazing. The strawberry is in gelato/sorbet form.

I think this was “Frozen Passion Fruit Souffle. Pistachio, Coconut, Lemongrass Broth.”

Lest we forget the chocolate, we each got like five kinds. The soufflé had it’s own injector. It’s called “Chocolate, Chocolate, Coffee. Chocolate Souffle, Chocolate Peanut Butter Crunch, Coffee and Mascarpone.”

Here in tripple form. Remember this is but the third of several deserts, after the cheese!

Wafer thin mint anyone? These petite-fors were actually a bit lackluster, but who had room anyway. The wild strawberries and creme fraiche were good.

We started at 8pm and left close to 1 am. Look how the dining room appeared during our final courses. This was a very (modern) French meal in a lot of ways, following the classic rule of “never too much butter, never too much cream.” It’s very very good though, if a bit on the rich side.

For another Melisse meal, click here.

Or for other Foodie Club meals, click here.

Related posts:

  1. Food as Art: Ludobites 6.0
  2. Food as Art: Calima
  3. Food as Art: The Bazaar
  4. Food as Art: Urwasawa
  5. Food as Art: Sasabune
By: agavin
Comments (6)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Butter, California, Château Lynch-Bages, Cru (wine), Dessert, Foie gras, Food, Foodie Club, French Food, Gourmet, Los Angeles, Lynch Bages, Macro photography, Mazis-Chambertin, Melisse, Restaurant, reviews, Truffles
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