Restaurant: Crustacean Beverly Hills [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10]
Location: 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 205-8990
Date: September 17, 2024
Cuisine: Vietnamese
Chef: Tony Nguyen
Rating: Amazing again
Tonight I returned again to Crustacean for the I-don’t-know-how-many-th time.
Crustacean Beverly Hills opened its doors on South Santa Monica Boulevard in 1997, the Southern California outpost of Chef Helene An and the An family’s “House of An” restaurant group that began with San Francisco’s Thanh Long in 1975. Still owned and operated by Helene and her daughters, the restaurant embodies the family’s remarkable immigrant story: flight from Saigon in 1975, the reinvention of heirloom Central Vietnamese recipes on American soil, and a steady rise from a modest deli to a mini-empire that helped mainstream Vietnamese flavors in the United States. Executive chef Tony Nguyen now works alongside “Mama An,” but the beating heart of the kitchen remains the famous “secret kitchen,” a walled-off space accessible only to family members where their legendary garlic noodles, roasted Dungeness crab, and other guarded specialties are prepared. This blend of tradition, secrecy, and calibrated innovation has given Crustacean a cult-like following and a steady stream of celebrities, studio heads, and travelers who come specifically for dishes no competitor seems able to duplicate convincingly.
We had this bar area all to ourselves.
A $10-million renovation in 2018 refreshed the two-story space without blunting its sense of occasion: guests enter over a glass-bottom koi pond, dine amid terrazzo floors, living plant walls, and golden bamboo panels, and can move to the An Lounge for cocktails riffing on Southeast Asian herbs. The design mirrors the cuisine’s East-meets-West philosophy—contemporary California polish layered onto Vietnamese imperial court flavors, French technique, and a dash of Hollywood glamour. In a city obsessed with novelty, Crustacean has managed to feel both timeless and current, anchoring Beverly Hills’ dining scene while mentoring a generation of Vietnamese-American chefs and inspiring countless knockoffs of its signature noodles. More than two decades on, it remains one of the few places in Los Angeles where a plate of crab can still feel like a story, a secret, and a celebration all at once.
Chef Tony Nguyen, executive chef and partner at Crustacean Beverly Hills, is a Vietnamese-American Angeleno who came up through a mix of blue-chip fine-dining rooms and bustling Asian kitchens. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, he staged at Per Se and the French Laundry before taking full-time posts at Daniel Boulud’s DB Bistro Moderne in New York, Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak in San Francisco, and modern Vietnamese standard-bearer the Slanted Door. Those stops sharpened both his classical French technique and his understanding of how boldly seasoned Southeast-Asian food can sit comfortably in a white-tablecloth setting. In 2017 Helene An—matriarch of the House of An restaurant group and guardian of the famous “secret kitchen” that produces Crustacean’s garlic noodles—recruited Nguyen first as chef de cuisine and soon after made him her creative partner for the restaurant’s $10-million relaunch.
The 2006 Krug Champagne, a hallmark of luxury from the prestigious Krug house, hails from the Champagne region of France. This vintage showcases a rich and complex profile, with notes of ripe citrus, toasted brioche, and a hint of almond. Best enjoyed with fine seafood dishes or creamy risottos, it epitomizes elegance and depth, making it a perfect celebratory choice.
The 2004 Salon Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil is a remarkable expression of elegance and precision from the Côte des Blancs region of Champagne. Known for its stunning purity, this vintage displays notes of white flowers, citrus zest, and a hint of toasted brioche, complemented by a fine, lingering minerality. Ideal for pairing with delicate seafood dishes or a classic sushi platter, it showcases the essence of Chardonnay in its most refined form.
Fried Something.
Wagyu Smash Burger Fried Potsticker: A delightful fusion of flavors, this dish showcases the rich, buttery essence of wagyu beef encased in a perfectly crispy potsticker skin. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory umami and subtle sweetness, complemented by the gentle crunch of the fried exterior. The aroma wafts enticingly, hinting at the indulgent experience to come, while the vibrant colors of the dish invite you to savor its unique presentation.
Fried Oysters. This was a lot of fried! The golden, crisp exterior yields to a tender, briny interior that bursts with the essence of the sea, while the aroma of the frying oil mingles with the delicate scent of ocean air. Each bite is a harmonious balance of crunch and creaminess, inviting you to savor the rich umami flavor that lingers on the palate, leaving a satisfying finish.
Tuna and Caviar “Cigars.” These delightful bites offer a sophisticated twist on traditional flavors. The delicate, melt-in-your-mouth tuna is perfectly complemented by the briny pop of the caviar, creating a harmonious balance between umami and salinity. Visually striking, they present a beautiful contrast in texture, with the smoothness of the fish juxtaposed against the crisp exterior, inviting you to indulge in their luxurious essence.
The early rounds.
The 2010 Meursault “Les Chevaliers” from Bernard Boisson-Vadot is a stunning white Burgundy that showcases the region’s hallmark richness and minerality. With aromas of ripe pear, toasted hazelnuts, and a hint of citrus zest, this wine unfolds onto a palate that is both creamy and vibrant, revealing layers of stone fruit and a subtle, flinty finish. Pair it beautifully with roasted chicken, lobster, or a creamy risotto to complement its luxurious texture.
The 2011 Meursault-Perrières from Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a stunning example of Premier Cru Chardonnay from Burgundy. With its rich, buttery texture and notes of ripe apple, hazelnut, and a hint of minerality, this wine showcases the finesse of the Meursault terroir. Ideal for pairing with roasted chicken, creamy risotto, or a delicate lobster dish, it offers a luxurious experience that evolves beautifully in the glass.
On the plate, the delicate artistry of Hirame Sashimi unfolds, showcasing translucent white fillets that glisten like fresh morning dew. Each slice is nestled atop a velvety pool of creamy coconut emulsion, its pale hue contrasting strikingly with the deep umber backdrop of the dish. The aroma is a gentle whisper of the ocean, mingling seamlessly with the fragrant notes of fresh herbs and a hint of citrus, enticing the senses. As you take your first bite, the texture is a sublime interplay of tender and silky, melting effortlessly in the mouth, while the unexpected burst of briny caviar adds a delightful pop, harmonizing beautifully with the subtle sweetness of the coconut. A sprinkle of vibrant red pepper flakes provides just a hint of warmth, elevating the experience and inviting you to savor each exquisite layer of flavor.
Fluke Kaluga “hold and cold”: Pei mussel nage, kaffir lime, Thai basil, crispy shallot. Very nice “crudo” with a buttery sauce. I might have liked a bit more acidity. The delicate fluke presents itself in a pristine, translucent layer, inviting the palate with its subtle sweetness, while the fragrant kaffir lime and aromatic Thai basil elevate the experience, adding a refreshing brightness to the rich, velvety nage. The crispy shallots lend a delightful crunch, introducing a contrasting texture that balances the dish beautifully.
The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Garennes from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is a stunning expression of Burgundy’s elegance. This Premier Cru showcases a delicate balance of minerality and richness, with notes of white flowers, citrus zest, and a touch of flint. Perfectly paired with seafood dishes like grilled scallops or a classic lobster risotto, this wine’s vibrant acidity and creamy texture elevate any dining experience.
Domaine de Montilla’s 2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Le Cailleret” showcases the essence of Burgundy with its elegant balance of minerality and ripe stone fruit. The wine reveals layers of citrus zest and white flowers, complemented by a subtle oak influence that adds depth. Ideal for pairing with grilled lobster or a creamy risotto, this Chardonnay embodies sophistication and finesse.
King Crab ‘Banh Khot’: Coconut bechamel, Osetra caviar. Tasty and rich bite with a definitive coconut flavor. The delicate sweetness of the coconut bechamel harmonizes beautifully with the briny pop of the Osetra caviar, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that contrasts the tender, succulent crab. Visually stunning, the dish presents a vibrant interplay of color that invites you to indulge in its exquisite layers of flavor.
Rich textures and earthy tones dominate the diety, creating a serene backdrop that enhances the culinary experience, encouraging guests to savor each dish as a work of art. This thoughtfully curated environment not only elevates the dining experience but also invites patrons to immerse themselves in a journey of flavors and stories.
The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine Louis Latour is a stunning expression of Burgundy’s Grand Cru terroir. Hailing from the renowned Côte de Beaune, this Chardonnay showcases a brilliant balance of richness and acidity. Notes of ripe pear, citrus zest, and subtle oak intertwine, creating a complex palate that lingers beautifully. It pairs exquisitely with roasted lobster or a creamy risotto, enhancing the dish’s luxurious flavors.
The 2021 Meursault-Charmes from Domaine Liger-Belair is an exquisite white Burgundy that showcases the region’s hallmark richness and finesse. With notes of ripe pear, hazelnut, and a whisper of oak, this wine embodies a luxurious texture balanced by vibrant acidity. It pairs beautifully with creamy lobster dishes or rich mushroom risotto, enhancing the umami flavors.
This vintage reflects meticulous care in vineyard management and winemaking, presenting a remarkable depth that invites contemplation. The wine’s mineral undertones resonate with the limestone terroir, making it an ideal match for grilled fish or a classic Coq au Vin, allowing the dish’s flavors to shine.
Next round.
Kohlrabi Caesar. Brown butter brioche crouton, grana padana. This has that interesting crunchy/slimy kohlrabi texture. The dish presents a delightful contrast of textures, with the rich, nutty undertones of the brown butter brioche crouton perfectly complementing the crisp yet yielding kohlrabi. Each bite offers a harmonious interplay of savory flavors, inviting you to explore the delicate balance between creaminess and crunch.
The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine Leflaive showcases the pinnacle of Burgundy’s white wine offerings. With its radiant golden hue, this Chardonnay exudes aromas of ripe stone fruits, white flowers, and a hint of toasted oak. On the palate, it reveals a luxurious texture, balanced acidity, and a long, mineral-driven finish, making it an exceptional companion for dishes like roasted lobster with herb butter or truffle risotto.
The 2016 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Henri Boillot showcases the pinnacle of Burgundy’s white wine excellence. This wine offers a luxurious bouquet of ripe stone fruits, hazelnuts, and subtle oak spice, harmonizing beautifully on the palate with rich, creamy textures and a vibrant mineral backbone. Ideal for pairing with roasted lobster or a delicate truffle risotto, it exemplifies the elegance and complexity characteristic of this esteemed vineyard.
The 2019 Bouchard Père & Fils Grand Cru Montrachet emanates elegance and complexity from the prestigious Burgundy region. This Chardonnay showcases a bouquet of white flowers, ripe peach, and subtle oak, leading to a rich, creamy palate with a mineral backbone. Perfectly paired with buttery lobster or a decadent truffle risotto, this wine exemplifies the artistry of Burgundy winemaking.
The 2021 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru, hailing from Burgundy, showcases the pinnacle of Chardonnay with its opulent texture and complex flavor profile. This vintage offers a harmonious balance of ripe stone fruits, citrus zest, and subtle oak, culminating in a long, mineral-driven finish. Ideal for pairing with grilled lobster or a creamy risotto, it elevates any fine dining experience.
Sushi Rice “Risotto.” Black summer truffle. Very simple, clean, and perfectly cooked. The delicate grains of sushi rice are transformed into a creamy, luxurious base, each morsel exuding a subtle nuttiness that beautifully complements the earthy aroma of the truffle. The dish presents a visually appealing palette of ivory and deep black, inviting you to savor its rich, umami depth while experiencing a delightful interplay of textures that is both comforting and sophisticated.
Château Pavie, a prestigious estate from the Saint-Émilion region, presents its 2000 vintage, renowned for its powerful and opulent style. This wine showcases a deep ruby hue with aromatic layers of dark fruit, truffles, and earthy undertones. With a rich palate and velvety tannins, it pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a rich beef bourguignon, enhancing the savory elements of the dish.
The 2000 Château Palmer, a distinguished Bordeaux from the Margaux region, showcases a captivating blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. This vintage exudes elegance with its rich aromas of dark fruits, floral notes, and subtle spice. On the palate, it reveals velvety tannins and a harmonious balance, making it an exquisite pairing for roasted lamb or a decadent mushroom risotto.
The Château Ausone 2000 from Saint-Émilion is a remarkable blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, showcasing the elegance of this prestigious Grand Cru Classé A. This vintage reveals a complex bouquet of ripe red fruits, floral notes, and subtle spices, with a velvety mouthfeel that elegantly balances its vibrant acidity. Pair it with a gourmet duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto to enhance its nuanced flavors.
With its deep ruby color, the 2000 vintage exemplifies the terroir of Saint-Émilion, where limestone and clay soils impart a unique minerality. The aging potential is immense, allowing the wine to evolve beautifully; it’s a true testament to the artistry of winemaking at Château Ausone. Enjoy it alongside a fine selection of aged cheeses for a memorable experience.
The 2000 Château La Mission Haut-Brion hails from the renowned Pessac-Léognan region of Bordeaux, showcasing a classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. This vintage is celebrated for its deep garnet hue and complex bouquet, revealing notes of dark berries, tobacco, and earthy undertones. On the palate, it delivers a full-bodied experience with velvety tannins and a long, elegant finish, making it an exquisite pairing for rich dishes like braised lamb or a gourmet steak.
Next round.
Bone Marrow “bo kho” dumplings. Lemongrass tomato jus, star anise. Meaty and delicious. The rich, unctuous bone marrow melds seamlessly with the aromatic depth of star anise, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that is both comforting and indulgent. Each bite unveils a harmony of flavors, enhanced by the bright acidity of the lemongrass-infused tomato jus, which cuts through the richness, leaving a tantalizing finish that lingers delightfully on the palate.
The 1982 Château Margaux, a renowned Grand Cru Classé from Margaux, Bordeaux, epitomizes elegance and sophistication. This vintage showcases a rich tapestry of blackcurrant, cedar, and earthy undertones, complemented by velvety tannins and a long, lingering finish. Ideal for pairing with classic dishes such as beef Wellington or a decadent duck confit, this wine is a testament to the artistry of winemaking.
With its deep ruby hue and complex bouquet, the 1982 Château Margaux presents both power and finesse, making it a perfect choice for celebrations or special occasions. The wine’s balance and depth make it equally delightful when enjoyed on its own or alongside aged cheeses, enhancing its intricate flavor profile.
The 1990 Grand Vin de Château Latour hails from the esteemed Pauillac region of Bordeaux, renowned for producing some of the world’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon blends. This vintage is characterized by its deep, concentrated flavors of dark fruit, tobacco, and earth, with a velvety texture and a long, lingering finish. It pairs beautifully with roasted lamb or a rich beef stew, enhancing the dish’s depth and complexity.
Château Latour’s first growth status is evident in this wine’s impressive structure and aging potential, making it a superb choice for special occasions or a luxurious dinner. The harmonious balance of acidity and tannins ensures that this wine will continue to evolve gracefully over the coming decades.
Château l’Evangile, Pomerol, 1998 is a sublime expression of its terroir, showcasing ripe black cherry and plum notes intertwined with hints of truffle and earthy undertones. Its velvety tannins provide a luxurious mouthfeel, complemented by a long, elegant finish. This wine pairs beautifully with herb-crusted lamb or a rich duck confit, enhancing the savory flavors of the dish.
Five Spices Duck. Luxardo cherry ponzu, confit dumpling, sunchoke. Insanely good. I ate two and could have gone for another. The duck, perfectly seared to achieve a luscious, crispy skin, is enveloped in a symphony of five spices that dance delicately on the palate. Enhanced by the bright acidity of the Luxardo cherry ponzu and the earthy richness of the confit dumpling, each bite is a harmonious blend of flavor and texture that lingers delightfully long after the last morsel has vanished.
The 1986 Château Lafite Rothschild, hailing from the Pauillac region of Bordeaux, is a quintessential expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. With its deep ruby color, this vintage unfolds with aromas of blackcurrant, cedar, and earthy undertones, culminating in a palate that balances rich fruit with elegant tannins. Perfectly paired with a perfectly grilled lamb rack, it enhances the meal with its complexity and depth.
From the same esteemed producer, the 2010 Château Lafite Rothschild showcases the potential of the Lafite estate in a modern context. This vintage offers a bouquet of ripe dark fruits, tobacco, and hints of graphite, while the palate is opulent and structured, displaying remarkable finesse. This wine pairs beautifully with a rich beef Wellington, amplifying the dish’s savory elements.
Château Cheval Blanc, a prestigious producer from the Saint-Émilion region, offers a 1989 vintage that exemplifies the elegance of Bordeaux wines. This Right Bank gem is a blend predominantly of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, showcasing a lush fruit profile intertwined with notes of leather, spice, and earthy undertones. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity make it a perfect pairing with rich dishes such as duck confit or aged cheeses, enhancing the overall dining experience.
The 2010 Château Pétrus, an iconic wine from Pomerol, showcases the elegance and depth of Merlot in this esteemed region. With its velvety texture and complex layers of ripe black fruits, truffle, and subtle spice, this vintage exemplifies the hallmark richness of Pétrus. Ideal for pairing with a perfectly cooked filet mignon or rich mushroom dishes, it promises a sumptuous experience.
Final waves.
A5 Wagyu “Shaken Beef.” Chrysanthemum, crispy potato. Yum! The succulent marbling of the Wagyu melts in your mouth, offering a rich umami that is beautifully balanced by the fresh, floral notes of chrysanthemum. The crispy potato adds a delightful crunch, creating a harmonious contrast in texture that elevates each bite into a symphony of flavor.
An’s Famous Garlic Noodles: Roasted garlic & An’s secret sauce. Always great. The rich aroma of roasted garlic envelops the senses, while the silky noodles glisten with a luscious sheen, inviting you to indulge. Each bite unfolds layers of savory depth, harmonizing the umami of the secret sauce with a delicate hint of sweetness that lingers delightfully on the palate.
The Château d’Yquem 1990, hailing from the Sauternes region of Bordeaux, is a sublime expression of this renowned estate. This vintage showcases a luscious balance of rich honeyed notes, apricot, and exotic spices, enveloped in a velvety texture. Perfectly paired with foie gras or blue cheese, this wine offers an indulgent experience that elevates any dessert to new heights.
Poached Emerald Plumcot. Tahitian vanilla ice cream. Superb for this sort of dessert with a “Christmas” sort of flavor from the spices. The vibrant hues of the plumcot create a striking visual contrast against the creamy, velvety texture of the ice cream, while the aromatic spices weave a warm, inviting scent that dances playfully on the palate. Each bite provides a harmonious balance of tartness and sweetness, evoking a sense of seasonal nostalgia with every mouthful.
Château d’Yquem, Sauternes, 2001 is a sublime example of a world-renowned dessert wine. This vintage showcases an opulent sweetness balanced by vibrant acidity, offering notes of candied apricot, honey, and a hint of exotic spices. It pairs beautifully with foie gras or rich blue cheeses, as well as fruit-based desserts.
Mint Oreo Chocolate Chip Gelato (by Sweet Milk, aka me) is a delightful blend of creamy mint-infused gelato, studded with crunchy Oreo cookie pieces and rich chocolate chips. The cool, refreshing mint envelops the palate, while the contrasting textures of the smooth gelato and the crispy cookies create a harmonious experience. Each spoonful is a symphony of flavors, with the vibrant green hue inviting you to indulge in its refreshing allure.
This was an amazing dinner. Not only was the company great and this one of those wonderful “off menu” An meals, but the wines were incredible!
Sandy and Michael goof off.
Here we have a delightful guest, bringing warmth and charm to the evening’s culinary experience.
