Location: Villa Malka
Date: September 7, 2024
Cuisine: French
Chef: Laurent Quenioux
We hosted a private dinner at home for some friends and so of course we brought back in our favorite private chef: Laurent Quenioux.
French-born chef Laurent Quenioux grew up in France’s Sologne Valley, apprenticing at age sixteen at the legendary Troisgros in Roanne before polishing his classical chops at institutions such as Jacques Cagna in Paris and Relais & Châteaux properties throughout the Loire. He came to the United States in the early 1980s, first cooking at 1789 in Washington, D.C., then settling in Los Angeles, where his résumé expanded to L’Orangerie, the Regency Club and other fine–dining addresses. Quenioux made his own mark with 7th Street Bistro downtown (earning a coveted three-star Los Angeles Times review), the cult-favorite Bistro K in Pasadena, and a long stint as opening chef at Vertical Wine Bistro. In 2009 he opened Bistro LQ on Beverly Boulevard, which quickly became the city’s unofficial clubhouse for cooks, sommeliers and adventurous diners.
Quenioux’s food marries rigorous French technique with a mischievous, almost punk-rock curiosity: venison tartare might arrive under shaved frozen foie gras, or a composed cheese course could feature stilton ice cream draped with bee pollen and white truffle honey. He is notoriously enamored of wild game, foraged mushrooms, California farmers-market produce and the odd entomological flourish (meal-worm–crusted gougères, anyone?), yet the plates remain elegant rather than gimmicky. Influences range from the nouvelle-cuisine minimalism of Michel Guérard to the ingredient-driven spontaneity of contemporary California cooking, all filtered through Quenioux’s own restless palate and a keen respect for seasonality.
Accolades have followed wherever he cooks: multiple “Best of” nods from LA Weekly, appearances at the James Beard House, and glowing write-ups from Jonathan Gold, who praised the chef’s “thrilling, almost reckless imagination.” The guiding philosophy at Bistro LQ is an open-ended conversation between tradition and invention—trust in craft enough to break its rules, use the market as a compass, and never underestimate the diner’s appetite for surprise. Tasting menus change nightly, wine (or craft-beer) pairings are devised with equal whimsy, and Quenioux himself often emerges from the kitchen to solicit feedback, reinforcing his belief that cuisine is a living, collaborative art rather than a fixed canon.
LQ’s lovely team.
Petit chou with avocado mousse and kiwi. Danger: eat all in one bite! The delicate pastry shell cradles a velvety avocado mousse that dances on the palate, while the vibrant kiwi adds a refreshing burst of acidity. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of creamy and fruity notes, beautifully complemented by the vivid green hues that entice the eye and awaken the senses.
Smoked Salmon Tartare – A delightful medley of fresh salmon, finely chopped and expertly seasoned, served with a touch of citrus and accompanied by crispy crackers. The vibrant coral hue of the salmon is perfectly complemented by the zesty notes of lemon, while the texture is a harmonious balance of silky smoothness and satisfying crunch. Each bite delivers a nuanced interplay of flavors, with the smoky undertones enhancing the inherent richness of the fish, making it a truly exquisite culinary experience.
Yum!
Cheese straws puff pastry with tarragon ranch. These delightful bites are a perfect union of flaky pastry and rich, savory cheese, elevated by the aromatic whispers of tarragon in the ranch dip. The golden-brown straws boast a satisfying crunch that gives way to a creamy interior, while the tarragon ranch adds a refreshing herbaceous note, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the palate with every bite.
Our special menu for tonight.
The setting.
Bread and Butter Bordier from Brittany, France. The butter is so good. Its rich, creamy texture envelops the palate, while the delicate, slightly nutty flavor of the Bordier butter elevates the humble bread to a luxurious experience. The golden hue of the butter glistens enticingly, promising a taste that is both indulgent and unforgettable.
Smoked Trout. Fresh goat cheese mousse | smoked trout roe | apricot lane farm egg salad | herbs. Loved this smoky dish. The smoky essence of the trout beautifully intertwines with the creamy goat cheese mousse, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that is both rich and refreshing. The vibrant colors of the dish, complemented by the delicate herbs, invite you to indulge, while the subtle sweetness of the apricot lane farm egg salad adds a delightful contrast to the savory elements, making each bite a harmonious experience.
Wild Turbot: kimchi choron | corn | corn vol au vent. Perfectly cooked. The turbot’s delicate flesh gleamed with a subtle sheen, inviting the senses to explore its mild sweetness, while the vibrant kimchi choron added a piquant contrast that awakened the palate. Accompanied by the airy corn vol au vent, each bite was a harmonious interplay of textures, with the dish’s colors echoing the artistry of a painter’s palette.
Arugula Gelato (by me) with arugula oil, EVOO, and sea salt. Gelato salad — and perfect! The vibrant green hue of the gelato is striking, inviting you to indulge, while the delicate swirl of arugula oil adds a fragrant herbaceous note. Each spoonful offers a creamy texture that melts effortlessly, balanced by the subtle saltiness that enhances the natural peppery flavor of the arugula, creating a refreshing and unexpected culinary experience.
Salmon with grapes for the pescatarians. This dish is a beautiful marriage of flavors, where the rich, buttery texture of the salmon is perfectly complemented by the sweet, juicy bursts of grapes. The vibrant colors of the dish invite the senses, while the delicate aroma of the fish mingles with the subtle notes of fruit, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the palate.
Stuffed Quail: Foie gras | traditional stuffing | port wine jus | grapes. Smelled so good! The quail, perfectly roasted to a golden brown, exuded a rich aroma that was both earthy and indulgent. Each bite revealed a tender, succulent interior, harmoniously complemented by the sweet, velvety port wine jus and the subtle tartness of the grapes, creating a delightful balance of flavors that lingered elegantly on the palate.
Wagyu Beef Cheek. Pearl onions | Bourguignon style | Oyster mushrooms | Leeks 2 ways. This dish captivates with its velvety texture, where the rich, marbled beef cheek melts effortlessly in your mouth, harmonizing beautifully with the sweet and earthy notes of pearl onions and oyster mushrooms. The two preparations of leeks add a delightful crunch and subtle sweetness, elevating the experience with their vibrant green color and fragrant aroma, creating a symphony of flavors that dance elegantly on the palate.
Cheeses: Maroille | St Maure | Coulommiers | Brillat Savarin | Bleu D’Auvergne. Awesome cheeses! Each selection offers a unique profile, with the creamy Brillat Savarin providing a luscious mouthfeel, while the tangy notes of Bleu D’Auvergne linger delightfully on the palate. The contrasting textures and colors of these artisanal cheeses create a visually stunning and aromatic experience that invites exploration and indulgence.
Breads for the cheese. The array of artisanal breads offers a delightful canvas for the rich and varied cheeses they accompany. Each loaf, with its crusty exterior and soft, airy crumb, beckons with the warm aroma of freshly baked dough. The interplay of textures between the chewy crust and the tender interior enhances the creaminess of the cheeses, while their subtle nutty and slightly sweet notes provide a harmonious balance that elevates the tasting experience.
The dish, Golden Crisped Dough Strips, presents an enticing tableau of golden hues, each strip glistening with a delicate sheen that hints at its indulgent crunch. As they arrive, a warm, toasted aroma wafts gently, inviting anticipation of their buttery richness. The texture is a masterful juxtaposition; each bite yields a satisfying crackle, revealing a surprisingly airy interior that dissolves upon contact with the tongue. The flavor profile is a sublime interplay of sweetness and a whisper of salt, creating a symphony that lingers pleasantly, beckoning for another taste and leaving an imprint of its exquisite simplicity.
The wines. This was a seriously lightweight crew: only 3.x bottles with 11 people — and I’m sure I had at least a bottle myself!
Fabulous little dinner. LQ is an amazing chef, and he and his crew are super fast and efficient, leaving everything spotless.
