Restaurant: Girl & the Goat
Location: 555-3 Mateo St, Los Angeles, CA 90013. (213) 799-4628
Date: November 2, 2021
Cuisine: Modern American
Rating: Very tasty, 2 bottle limit
Last fall (yes I’m very behind in my posts), “people” kept going on about how great this new Chicago transplant by Chef Stephanie Izard was. So off we went.
They are located in a fairly cute offshoot area of downtown I don’t think I have been to.
Swank build out, although we (fortunately) sat outside.
Marked up with our orders.
One disadvantage to GATG is that they have one of those new terrible wine lists with most domestic weird cheap wines at inflated prices, COUPLED WITH (and they usually go together), a nominal 2 bottle corkage limit. I’m not going to rant again too long about the 2 bottle limit but… places should just charge a fair (unlimited) corkage that approximates their profit.
We did buy 2 bottles off the list. As usual there were basically no reds I would want to drink on the list, most are grapes I would never drink or way too young. There were 1-2 pleasant whites. Not sure there even was a white Burg, and if there was it would have been some off location village wine.
Agro de Bazan Albariño Rías Baixas Granbazán Etiqueta Ambar. This was a fine wine. Of course it was like $80 for a $20 bottle.
NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé. Always great, but like 4X what I’d normally pay for it.
Roasted Oysters. Clam baguette, sausage butter, oyster sauce mayo, finger limes.
The guts slid out onto a toast (which is how you are supposed to eat it).
Hamachi crudo. Browned goat butter, goat crema, pickled apple, tempura crunch, sesame seed.
Shrimp and crispy greens. Avocado, tangerine, pickled veggies, pepita crunch, limey-herby dressing.
Pan-roasted scallops. Chili relish, peanut-popiah crunch.
From my cellar: 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape. VM 93. The 1990 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a compelling bouquet of plump red fruit, oxtail, leather and morels, all well defined and full of chutzpah. The palate is smooth in texture and, at 29 years old, has certainly mellowed. There is a core of sweet fruit here, but it has softened with age and delivers a smorgasbord of second flavors: meat juices, clove and touches of fennel. It does not possess the audacity of the Hommage à Jacques Perrin, yet it has retained effortless charm. (Drink between 2019-2036)
1972 Xavier Vignon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Xavier 1972. This is not really a 1972. It’s blended or reconditioned.
Pork liver mousse. Crumpets, biscuit crackers, pickle persimmon, blueberry mostarda.
Duck tartare. Gochujang mayo, sesame, plums, fried brussels.
1989 Château Rausan-Ségla. VM 94. The 1989 Rauzan-Ségla is a vintage that to my surprise, I had not tasted since September 2007. Just like then it represents the high point of the decade and augured a much brighter future in terms of quality. At three decades old it has a beautiful bouquet, so elegant with brambly red fruit, cedar and rose petals, very Barolo in style and less exotic than previous bottles. The palate remains youthful and like the aromatics, comes across so finessed with superb delineation and natural balance. There is even a dab of honey on the sensual finish. Certainly à point, this Margaux is highly recommended. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at Hatched restaurant. (Drink between 2019-2035)
Roasted shishitos. Harissa-tahini yogurt, parmesan, garlic crunch.
Confit Goat Belly. Tasty broth, plum pickle relish, spiced pecan crunch.
Grilled corn. Spiced coconut caramel, cotija, tajin.
Beef short rib. Gochujang, apple-cucumber salad.
1999 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia. VM 95. The 1999 Ornellaia (magnum) does not disappoint. This vivid, energetic wine emerges from the glass with a myriad of graphite, menthol, licorice, leather and dark fruit wrapped around a powerful core. The bouquet alone is worth the price of admission. Though not as opulent as the 1997, the 1999 offers exceptional length and a finessed, regal close. The 1999 Ornellaia is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 18 months in French oak (60% new) prior to being bottled. (Drink between 2009-2021)
Special pre-reserved giant goat back with all sorts of salad, sauces and breads. Meat was actually a little bit dry but all the condiments juiced it right up. A LOT of food.
Pickled salad (and sauces).
A mushroom salad.
Goat Curry. Masa chips, radish, pickled vegetables. Yummy! Getting very full.
A sort of butterscotch type thing. Descriptions are vague because they just brought and comped the desserts and I didn’t see any menu.
Chocolate and orange or something.
Food here is really good. Almost all of the dishes were really tasty. Very savory, fatty, salty and all that, but full of zest and punch. Chef Izzard was in the house on the night we went.
Service was also quite excellent. Very nice, attentive, and all that. The patio location outside was fabulous.
I’ll try to go back again this year and try more dishes (even if we did a pretty good job on the menu). It was really delicious.
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