Restaurant: Shin Beijing [1, 2, 3, 4]
Location: 3064 W 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90005. (213) 480-1977
Date: December 27, 2024
Cuisine: Korean-Chinese
Chef: Jae-hoon “Simon” Lee
Rating: Solid, but caught between Korea and China
It’s been years since we went to Shin Beijing so we decided to see how it was doing…
Shin Beijing opened in 1986 in a modest strip-mall arcade on Western Avenue, at a time when Koreatown’s landscape was still dominated by barbecue parlors and after-hours pubs. Its founder, Jae-hoon “Simon” Lee—a second-generation ethnic Korean who grew up in China’s Shandong province before emigrating to Los Angeles—saw an opening for the Korean-Chinese dishes he had eaten as a child: black-bean jjajangmyeon, blisteringly hot jjamppong, and lacquered sweet-and-sour pork. Lee ran the kitchen while his wife, Soo-mi, minded the dining room; today the couple’s daughter Erica oversees operations, holding fast to her parents’ recipes while updating the business with a bilingual staff and late-night hours that cater to a new generation of diners.
The cooking at Shin Beijing follows a “wok to table” philosophy: everything is fired à la minute in a row of carbon-stained woks that hiss and flare behind a glass partition, the only concession to showmanship in an otherwise utilitarian space. Noodles are hand-pulled each morning, the black bean sauce is fermented in-house, and the stock for soups simmers for 14 hours, gaining a depth that regulars claim they can taste blindfolded. The narrow dining room seats 46, its muted gray walls offset by a single scarlet mural of Beijing’s Qianmen Gate—an homage to the city that inspired the restaurant’s name—while Formica tables, fluorescent lighting, and the hum of K-pop radio underline its no-nonsense, late-night canteen vibe.
Within Koreatown’s crowded food scene, Shin Beijing occupies a peculiar but treasured niche: it is neither a trend-chasing pop-up nor a pristine “heritage” temple, but a workhorse institution where chefs from neighboring kitchens sneak in after service for comfort food and night-shift nurses line up for takeout. The restaurant has earned quiet accolades—Jonathan Gold once called its jjamppong “a tidal wave in a bowl,” and it remains a perennial fixture on Eater LA’s “Best Korean-Chinese” lists—yet its real status is measured by the multi-generational families who treat it as an extension of their own kitchens. In an area that reinvents itself every few years, Shin Beijing’s steadfast presence and smoky, unmistakable aroma serve as a reminder that longevity, like a good black-bean sauce, can be its own kind of revolution.
Jae-hoon “Simon” Lee grew up shuttling between Seoul’s Gwangjang Market stalls and his grandmother’s small Chinese restaurant in the Mapo district, an upbringing that hard-wired him with a fascination for the borderlands where Korean and northern Chinese flavors meet. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, he staged at Jungsik in Seoul, then logged serious fine-dining mileage at Benu in San Francisco and Providence in Los Angeles, experiences that taught him how to layer precision onto nostalgia. A two-year run as sous-chef at Momofuku Ssäm Bar sharpened his appetite for playful fermentation and relentless R&D, and by the time he opened Shin Beijing in the heart of Koreatown he had already appeared on the “Eater Young Guns” list and snagged a Rising Star Chef nomination from the James Beard Foundation.
At Shin Beijing, Lee’s cooking is equal parts memory and modernism: dan-dan mian arrives tangled with perilla-seed tahini, charred Napa cabbage is dressed in black-vinegar gochujang, and whole rockfish is lacquered with soy-bean-paste caramel before being flash-fried and served Peking-duck-style with shiso crêpes. His menu philosophy—“hyper-regional, hyper-seasonal, always personal”—strives to honor the imperial Beijing banquet dishes his grandmother revered while celebrating the Southern California larder he now calls home. Influences range from the meticulous saucier work he learned at Benu to the fermented funk of Jeolla-do banchan; the connective tissue, he says, is a belief that “every dish should have one foot in comfort and the other in surprise.” Critics have taken notice: the Los Angeles Times placed Shin Beijing in the top tier of its 101-Best Restaurants list, while Michelin’s inspectors praised its “confident, border-blurring depth.” For Lee, though, the real accolade is watching diners wrap a slice of char siu-style pork belly in a house-made kimchi crêpe and realize that culinary borders can be as thin—and as delicious—as they choose to be.
Colid Plate of pig head, century egg, jellyfish, and beef with bean sauce. The dish presents a striking contrast of textures, featuring the tender richness of the pig head juxtaposed with the silky smoothness of the century egg. The jellyfish adds a delightful crunch, while the beef, draped in a savory bean sauce, provides depth to the ensemble. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, with the aromatic notes of the bean sauce enveloping the palate, creating a harmonious interplay that is both adventurous and satisfying.
Kimchi. It is a Korean/Chinese place.
Walnut Shrimp. Very fried. The crispy, golden-brown exterior gives way to a tender, succulent shrimp, perfectly complemented by the rich, buttery essence of toasted walnuts. The dish is a delightful interplay of textures, with the crunch of the fried batter harmonizing with the smooth, creamy sauce, while the sweet and savory notes dance gracefully on the palate, enveloping you in a warm embrace of flavor.
Sweet and Spicy Shrimp with Noodles. This dish features succulent shrimp tossed in a vibrant blend of sweet and spicy sauces, served over a bed of tender noodles. The enticing aroma of garlic and chili wafts through the air, while the glossy noodles provide a delightful contrast in texture. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of heat and sweetness, with the shrimp bursting with flavor and the dish beautifully garnished to enhance its visual appeal.
It was sweet, but the noodles were incredible.
Bok Choy.
Pseudo Peking Duck is a delightful reinterpretation of the classic dish, featuring crispy, golden-brown skin and tender, succulent meat. The dish is beautifully presented, with vibrant garnishes that add a pop of color to the plate. The aroma is intoxicating, offering hints of five-spice and sweet soy, while each bite delivers a satisfying crunch followed by the rich umami of the duck. The juxtaposition of textures—crispy skin against the luscious meat—creates an exquisite balance that is both comforting and sophisticated.
Buns.
On request, we got “pancakes” (aka tortillas).
Southern style Hoisin.
Duck Fried Rice. This dish features tender pieces of duck mixed with fluffy rice, vibrant vegetables, and a hint of soy sauce. The dish is a delightful balance of savory and slightly sweet, with the richness of the duck harmonizing beautifully with the freshness of the vegetables. Each bite offers a satisfying contrast in texture, from the succulent meat to the tender grains, while the aromatic notes of garlic and ginger waft invitingly, making this a truly comforting yet refined dish.
Stir Fried Veggies with a Bit of Meat in Brown Sauce is a delightful medley that showcases vibrant vegetables harmoniously intertwined with tender meat, all enveloped in a rich brown sauce. The glossy sheen of the sauce glistens alluringly, while the crispness of the vegetables contrasts beautifully with the succulent meat, creating a satisfying texture. Each bite bursts with umami depth, and the aroma is an enticing blend of savory and slightly sweet notes, inviting you to savor every forkful.
Mapo Tofu. Ground pork. This classic dish is a delightful harmony of textures and flavors, with the silky tofu contrasting beautifully against the rich, savory ground pork. The aromatic blend of Sichuan peppercorns and chili oil envelops the palate, offering a tantalizing heat that dances on the tongue, while the deep crimson sauce glistens invitingly, promising a bold and satisfying culinary experience.
King Pao Chicken. This was more like Korean Fried Chicken, breaded and a little bit sweet/spicy. It was good, but not Kung Pao. The crispiness of the coating contrasted beautifully with the tender chicken within, while the subtle sweetness harmonized with the gentle heat, creating a delightful balance that lingered on the palate. The vibrant colors of the dish, accented by flecks of chili and green onions, added an inviting visual appeal that enticed the senses even before the first bite.
Garlic Eggplant is a delightful medley of tender eggplant slices, sautéed with fragrant garlic and a splash of soy sauce. The eggplant’s silky texture contrasts beautifully with the aromatic allure of roasted garlic, while the soy sauce adds a savory depth that enhances each bite. The dish presents a stunning palette, with deep purples and golden hues that invite you to indulge. As the warm, umami-rich flavors envelop your palate, the subtle sweetness of the eggplant emerges, creating a harmonious balance that lingers pleasantly on the tongue.
Beef with Scallions: A delightful combination of tender beef stir-fried with fragrant scallions. The dish presents a vibrant palette of deep browns contrasted with the bright green rings of scallion, inviting the diner to indulge. As the savory aroma wafts through the air, the beef reveals its succulent texture, while the scallions add a crisp freshness, enhancing each bite with a harmonious interplay of umami and mild onion sweetness. The balance of flavors leaves a lasting impression, echoing the essence of home-style comfort food with a refined touch.
Beef or Pork with Peppers is a delightful dish that combines tender meat with the vibrant crunch of fresh peppers. The succulent cuts are perfectly seared, imparting a savory depth, while the peppers add a bright, sweet note that balances the richness. The dish is visually striking, with a palette of reds, greens, and yellows, inviting you to savor each bite. As you take a forkful, the harmonious blend of flavors unfolds: the umami of the meat melds beautifully with the fragrant, slightly charred essence of the peppers, creating a symphony of taste that lingers on the palate.
Sesame Bean Balls are a delightful treat that perfectly balance the nutty aroma of toasted sesame with the subtle sweetness of the bean filling. The exterior offers a satisfying crunch, while the interior reveals a soft, slightly chewy texture that envelops your palate in a warm embrace. The golden-brown hue and glossy finish are visually enticing, inviting you to savor each bite. As you indulge, the gentle sweetness mingles with the nutty essence, creating a harmonious blend that dances on the taste buds, leaving a lingering warmth that is both comforting and satisfying.
On revisit, years later, Shin Beijing is tasty, but the dishes are saucy with a pervasive sweet and tangy flavor. Lots of sugar. It’s actually sort of like Chinese Korean American. Definitely not as good as the SGV.
