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Archive for California Cuisine

Awesome Auburn

Jul03

Restaurant: Auburn

Location: 6703 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 486-6703

Date: May 29, 2019

Cuisine: Modern California

Rating: Really good fine dining

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Auburn is a much anticipated recent opening in LA’s often bankrupt fine dining space.
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It occupies the space formerly belonging to the legendary Citrus, then Alex, then Hatfields (all of which I enjoyed).
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They’ve partially roofed over, divided and modernized the space, removing the 80s-90s LA garden feel (which I kind of liked, but it’s certainly still very attractive).
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The kitchen is large, open, and bustling!

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Chef Eric Bost’s (République, Guy Savoy, Alain Ducasse) debut restaurant auburn juxtaposes the higher echelon of traditional fine dining with an emphasis on guest exploration and conviviality while paying homage to Los Angeles’ uninhibited culinary identity in a space designed with honest materials by local makers.

Chef Eric Bost grew up in North Carolina, running around his grandparents’ restaurants at an early age. Upon graduation from business school, he enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America. After an externship at Le Cirque in NYC, Bost traveled across Europe, where he met his future wife, Elodie, and made Paris his home. During their time in France, Bost worked his way through some of the world’s best restaurants, including Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and Les Ambassadeurs at the Hôtel de Crillon. His experience led him to be chosen by Guy Savoy for his opening team in Las Vegas in 2006. Two years later, the restaurant received 2 Michelin Stars with Bost as Chef de Cuisine. Within months, he was appointed Executive Chef and maintained their prestigious rating, garnering numerous accolades along the way. With the opening of Guy Savoy Singapore in 2010, Bost established a restaurant consistently voted amongst the best in the country. Most recently, Bost was the Executive Chef at Los Angeles’ beloved République. Now, after nearly a decade at the helm of revered restaurants, Bost ventures on his own with auburn.
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Our table, right by the kitchen.

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The big menu — but that wasn’t big enough for us.
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So we asked for (and got) EVERYTHING!
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Larry brought: 2000 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut. BH 96. A wonderfully layered and nuanced nose features an intense yeasty character to the maturing fruit that displays interesting phenolic characters, in particular petrol, along with aromas of apple, pear and soft citrus hints. In contrast to the nascent maturity expressed by the nose the flavor profile is still tight and backward with a genuinely gorgeous texture, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent and highly complex finish. For my taste the 2000 Brut is at an inflection point as the nose does offer enough maturity so that it’s really quite pretty whereas the palate impression is substantially younger. As such it really just depends on how you prefer your Champagne because I suspect that the nose will be very mature by the time the still very youthful flavors attain their majority. For my taste preferences it would be no vinous crime to begin enjoying this now but be aware that this will age for a very long time. The best approach is probably to buy 6, or even 12, bottles and enjoy them over a longer period of time.
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Erick brought: 1996 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé. VM 95. A head-turning beauty, the 1996 Dom Ruinart Rosé boasts gorgeous, resonant fruit to match its considerable structure and intensity. Although quite pretty and expressive, the 1996 has enough balance to develop gracefully in bottle for years to come.
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Amuse of fried pork skins.
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Amuse of pea tartlets (on dry black rice).
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Amuse of iberico pork.
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Really nice bread with:
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Something (maybe basil) butter.
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HIRAMASA CRUDO. green strawberries, citrus fern, celery. Really bright and zesty.

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Walker brought: 2016 Caroline Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets. VM 93. Pale, bright straw-yellow. Musky, slightly reduced aromas of yellow peach, ripe pear, flinty minerality and smoky oak. Rather broad and glyceral on entry, then rich but lively in the middle palate, with pear, lime and wet stone flavors framed by harmonious acidity. The slowly building, tactile, classically dry finish dusts the palate and lingers impressively. Lovely concentration and savory minerality here.
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2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne. BH 96. This is a classic example of Corton-Charlemagne with its impressively layered floral, green fruit, lime and stone-infused nose that precedes citrusy, precise and powerful mineral-driven flavors that possess real muscle on the almost painfully intense and steely finish that delivers striking length. While it’s not quite as great as the Montrachet, it easily holds its own. A wine to own but note that only the patient will ever see it at its best as this is likely to evolve glacially.
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Matthew brought: 2008 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux. BH 89. The first bottle displayed a distinct lactic note but a second bottle was extremely fresh with a hint of the exotic on the nose of citrus, stone and floral elements that complement well the minerally, supple and nicely textured flavors that possess good mid-palate flesh, all wrapped in a racy and well-delineated finish.
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SANTA BARBARA BOX CRAB. tomato seeds & gelee, mashua leaf, seaweed-lemon granite. Awesome dish. It’s ice cold with very interesting texture and a bright flavor. Lovely.
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HALIBUT. ramps, sunflower, green blueberries, artichoke, pistachio.
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With the sauce.
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WHITE ASPARAGUS. porcini mushrooms, trotters, spruce. Lovely.
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MOREL MUSHROOMS. Kusshi oysters. new crop potatoes.

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CABBAGE. charred leeks, onion essence, alpine cheese. Really lovely for a vegetable!

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From my cellar: 1996 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Clos Vougeot. JG 93+. I am a very big fan of the Clos Vougeot at Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat, which I find consistently to be one of the best examples in the Côte d’Or. The 1996 is a lovely example of the vintage that hails from the plus and buffered camp, with a lovely core of pure fruit fully carrying the structure of the vintage. The bouquet is deep, complex and quite sappy in its blend of plums, black cherries, woodsmoke, a touch of venison, coffee, a great base of soil and a stylish framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and impressively pure on the attack, with a fine core, ripe tannins and a long, focused and tangy finish. This is certainly approachable today, but in terms of complexity, it is still a tad on the primary side and a few more years of bottle age should be rewarded with even greater aromatic and flavor complexity. A lovely 1996.
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Walker brought: 1966 Château Belgrave. 86 points. Tannins were high, lots of life still in the taste. Decanted well – not much sediment. A little harsh at first, but after taking a bit of dark chocolate (Brix) WOW what a difference. Smoothed out nicely and had a very good flavor. Earthy in bouqet and slight taste. Very nice experience overall.
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SONOMA DUCK. cherries, mustard greens, amaranth, black garlic. Nice. Duck was hiding.
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30 DAY DRY-AGED RIB EYE. smoked beets, vidalia onions, orach, oxtail broth. Great beef.
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Roasted tea.
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EPOISSE. sunchoke, seeds & flowers. The cheese comes later!
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Here it is, all molten.
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Then on top. Delicious.
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YOGURT. Mushroom caramel. Nice dessert.
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STRAWBERRY & MILK. Fermented plum. Absolutely stunning strawberries and cream dessert.
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ROSE. Buckwheat honey. Interesting.
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Finish of dried leaf.
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Finish of strawberries and other dried sweet stuff.

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Folk looking a bit satiated. This was a long dinner. It started at 8:00 and took a while to get going. I wasn’t in bed until close to 2am. Sigh.

Overall, food was fabulous Audacious for LA fine dining, very California in style, but with nearly every dish working out. Lots of dishes. Even the vegetables — especially the vegetables — were great. Bravo on the food. Hope the dishes change frequently.

Our wines were pretty much great.

The chef, his wife, and the whole crew were super friendly. The wine director was off tonight though, and although super accommodating with the wine, the remaining crew was overwhelmed by our style of dinner. They took way too long to get bottles open. Way too long to get them poured etc. The dinner was so long it worked out, but there were long stretches where a bunch of us had all empty glasses. That shouldn’t be at serious fine dining. Really, it’s best for groups like us to leave the opening and pouring to us — just bring us the glasses — but we had the vague feeling that would be stepping on their territory and the bottles weren’t on the table. So we waited.

But awesome evening — if long (it started so late).

For my catalog of Chinese restaurant reviews in China, click here.

Or for epic Foodie Club meals, here.

Related posts:

  1. More Awesome Dimsum – King Hua
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  3. 71Above Birthday
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By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Auburn, California Cuisine, Eric Bost, Foodie Club, New American, Wine

Carmel Birthday!

Jun28

One of my best friends rented out a house in Carmel Valley California for his 40th birthday party and a bunch of us all drove up/down there.
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We “suffered” this terrible view from the balcony of our rental getaway!
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But this is the chronicle of the main birthday dinner as cooked by private chef Arielle Mckee (above).
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Her loyal assistant, Bailey working the early 90s kitchen.

And so the meal begins:
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Cocktail. French 75, Meyer lemon, gin, rose petal, keto simple syrup.
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From my cellar: 2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Cuvée Nicholas et Mathis. Drinking awesome. 93 points. ale gold with citrine highlights. Pungent nose of extremely overripe stonefruit with an underlying citrus/mineral aroma. Tart citrus zest, dark wildflower honey, wax & crushed shell. Well rounded and versatile.
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Amuse of watermelon and pistachio coated goat cheese. The ball is a lot like an ancient Roman snack.
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Amuse of fresh cheese stuffed strawberries with honey. Delicious!

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From my cellar: 2009 La Pousse d’Or Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret. BH 92. A deft touch of wood frames lemon and moderately exotic fruit aromas that include peach, mango and pear. There is excellent richness to the full-bodied, dense and mineral-inflected flavors that culminate in a naturally sweet, sappy and generous finish. This delicious effort is blessed with plenty of dry extract and while not classic in character, it’s really quite attractive all the same.

agavin: this bottle was a touch premoxed.
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Amuse of “potted plant“. Actually some kind of turnip or radish in an edible “dirt.”
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Arctic char (an ode to spring), pea shoot, pea flower, shaved fennel, cara cara orange, watermelon radish, avocado.
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From my cellar: 2013 Prager Riesling Smaragd Klaus. AG 92. Luscious peach and Mirabelle are significantly marked by their pits as well as by smoky black tea and forest floor notes for a low-toned, dark impression. Sappy and expansive, palpably rich in extract and fundamentally firm, this finishes with piquant concentration and formidable length, a hint of blond tobacco adding welcome, saliva-drawing savor.
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green garlic, asparagus, and oyster mushroom bisque; goat kefir, shaved goat Gouda, herb flower.
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From my cellar: 1999 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse. BH 88. I clearly underestimated the density here because my concerns about the borderline intrusive wood that this displayed on release has been successively integrated. The nose now reveals ripe red and black pinot fruit that is still almost completely primary yet the tannins are indisputably beginning to melt and in their stead, offering lovely finishing complexity on the suave and velvety backend. This should continue to positively evolve for the next 5 to 7 years though it is certainly enjoyable now.
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Roasted half quail, pan jus, porcini, red gooseberry, California white sage, carrot-parsnip mash.

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Pescatarian option: porcini “steak”.

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From my cellar: 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape. VC 93+. I have always been a fan of the 1989 Château Beaucastel, which I rank just behind the superb 1981 at this fine estate. The most recent bottle I tasted of this wine was still just a touch youthful, but offered up fine complexity on both the nose and palate and shows excellent promise. The bouquet is a blend of roasted fruitcake, cherries, new leather, venison, incipient notes of sous bois, woodsmoke and hot stones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and rock solid at the core, with a bit of tannin still to resolve, fine focus and grip and a very long, classy and slightly chewy finish. I would be tempted to give this wine a few more years to really resolve, as it will be a superb wine and it would be most enjoyable to drink it at the same plateau that the 1981 has been enjoying for a good decade already.
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Rack of lamb: blueberry-balsamic. I use the most amazing sherry balsamic vinegar from Portugal, fresh rosemary, Cabernet, morel mushroom, celeriac purée, Russian red kale. Delicious meatsicles!

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Sea Bass, French green lentil broth, leek, sherry balsamic, Russian red kale, heirloom cherry tomato salad

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Local cows milk cheese: savory candy cap almond flour shortbread, local Catalina cherry preserves, garam masala spiced almond crumble
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Muscat poached local stone fruit, bergamot panna cotta, edible pineapple guava flower.
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Rose Turkish Delight. Probably the best Turkish Delight I’ve had.
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Our wine lineup. Not bad for a bunch of parents!
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Mangoberry Cheesecake Gelato — raspberry/mango cream-cheese base with blackberry/mango ripple and house-made graham cracker crumble — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #cheesecake #mango #raspberry #blackberry #GrahamCracker #coulis #ripple #creamcheese
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Chess Chocolate Oreo Gelato — Valrhona medium chocolate base with layers of Valrhona Ivoire white chocolate ganache and crumbled Oreos — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #cheesecake #chocolate #valrhona #WhiteChocolate #oreo #chess

Overall, a really nice meal, leaning keto, extremely fresh and indicative of California ingredients and style. We do have fabulous produce (and chefs) here in the Golden State! I was really impressed by the cooking, which for being done by one lead chef and a couple hard working assistants in a rental kitchen was quite on point.

Related posts:

  1. Bourbon Birthday
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  4. Ultimate Pizza – The Birthday
  5. Double Eagle is Pretty Standard
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Arielle Mckee, birthday, BYOG, California, California Cuisine, carmel, Gelato, strawberries, Wine

Michael’s Rebooted

Mar31

Restaurant: Michael’s Santa Monica

Location: 1147 Third Street, Santa Monica, CA 90403. 310-451-0843

Date: February 14, 2013

Cuisine: New American

Rating: Great job with a tough night

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Michael’s is a Santa Monica classic, having been at heart of the birth of “California Cuisine” back in the 80’s, but things have been a bit staid for a long time. Now with a new chef shaking things up the food is bright and modern again.


The bar doesn’t look much different.

More lounge-like interior.

But it’s the garden that has always rocked. They don’t make spaces like this anymore!

From my cellar: 2006 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. BH 93. Again, as one would reasonably expect, this is more elegant still with a pure and refined nose of white flower, wet stone, fennel and a hint of honeysuckle that is also picked up by the citrusy, sweet and marvelously intense flavors that possess a bit more volume than usual. A very classy effort that will age well.

The menu.

Whole wheat sourdough.

Dungeness crab chawanmushi. uni, ginger sprout, Japanese sesame. I always love these light egg custards.

Yellowfin tuna tartare. Flax sseeds, kanzuri, yerba mate creme fraiche.

Spaghetti a la chitarra. Lamb sausage bolognese, garlic confit, smoked ricotta.

Potatoes a la plancha. Parmigiano reggiano, bonito flakes, furikake aioli.

Mixed baby lettuces. market vegetables, herbs & seeds, red wine vinaigrette.

From my cellar: 1993 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans. 92 points. Dry game and cinnamon; not quite as vibrant but still fine. Volnay is so elegant and has such legs to age. Perfect with roasted marrow.

Grilled branzino. Black carrot puree, winter citrus, calabrian chile.

Black garlic rice. vinegar roasted turnips, sumac yogurt, pickled wasabi leaf.

Duck breast. Huckleberry juniper pickle, chrysanthemum, delicata squash.

Denver steak. Porcini bordelaise, Russian kale, hedgehog mushrooms.

Ricotta Gnudi. Black trumpet sugo, green garlic, frill mustard.

Whipped cheesecake. Walnut, sour cream curd, graham cracker sable.

Hazelnut chocolate ganache. Pistachio pound cake, rice syrup, orange.

The menu at Michael’s is radically updated. Gone is the sort of 80s/90s larger plates with more French influence and in its place the newer, brighter style of vaguely fusion share plates. But the flavors were very good and execution spot on. Plus the garden is still a lovely spot. Compare to this meal from a few years ago.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Valentines at Michael’s
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By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: California Cuisine, garden, Michael's Santa Monica, Santa Monica

Kali-fornia Dreaming

Aug15

Restaurant: Kali [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

Location: 5722 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 871-4160

Date: August 1, 2016

Cuisine: New American French

Rating: Better every time!

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I’ve known Kevin Meehan for years as a private and popup chef and have had the pleasure to enjoy many a fine meal he’s put together. But this year he transitioned into the more stationary, and possibly more hectic restaurant world by opening up his own Melrose Ave restaurant! This is our second Foodie Club visit.

With the opening of Kali Restaurant, Chef Kevin Meehan’s broad 23-year culinary career reaches its apex. At Kali, Meehan, whose deft hand was cultivated in Los Angeles’ most prestigious kitchens, joins forces with long-time friend and professional colleague, Drew Langley, previously the wine director at the iconic, Michelin-starred Providence.
For the 39-year-old Meehan, Kali represents the evolution of not just Kali Dining, his roving private dinner pop-up, but the rigorous years he spent refining his craft. The contemporary California restaurant blends the precision and hospitality of the white tablecloth kitchens where Meehan developed his culinary acumen, with the accessibility and ease of a local’s favorite neighborhood haunt.
Born and raised in Long Island, New York, Meehan’s initial foray in the industry was at a fried chicken joint when he was a teenager. While most would be turned off by working the fryer, Meehan was feeding an innate attraction to food, and, in the process, unearthing what would become a life-long love affair with the restaurant world. After graduating high school, Meehan enrolled in the esteemed Culinary Arts program at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island, an education that he would test and sharpen on-the-line during an apprenticeship at the Michelin-starred L’alban Chambon under French Master Chef Dominique Michou, and, later, alongside Los Angeles’ finest chefs.
In 2000, Meehan drove cross country to assume a post at the celebrated L’Orangerie, then helmed by Chef Ludo Lefebvre. It was there that Meehan met Langley, who he would subsequently work with at the now late Bastide, where Meehan served as Chef de Cuisine, and, later, at Citrine. After Citrine’s closure in 2005, Meehan joined Patina Restaurant Group as Chef de Cuisine at Joachim Spichal’s seminal Patina restaurant in Downtown. During his three-year tenure, the restaurant received a Michelin Star for its fresh interpretation of French cuisine informed by seasonality, and Meehan was consequently promoted to Executive Chef of Café Pinot.
In 2012, Meehan parted ways with the prolific restaurant group to launch his passion project, Kali Dining. The underground operation quickly garnered critical attention for Meehan’s assertive, yet nuanced tasting menus that he prepared, dinner party-style, for Los Angeles top tastemakers, luminaries, and food enthusiasts. Kali the restaurant was birthed from the success of Kali Dining, and the passion that Meehan and co-owner Langley share for pushing the boundaries of the typical fine dining experience.

For Kali, Kevin partnered with Drew Langley.
While most known for his esteemed tenure as the Wine Director at the Michelin-starred Providence in Los Angeles, Drew Langley brings an extensive resume of experience to Kali Restaurant, a passion project born out of his 15-year friendship with Chef Kevin Meehan.
As Co-owner and Wine Director of the contemporary California restaurant near Hollywood’s iconic Paramount Pictures Studios, the 39-year-old’s near life-long matriculation in the food & beverage industry is fully realized. Kali blends the haute cuisine and hospitality of a fine dining destination with the accessibility of an everyday neighborhood haunt, and Langley’s concise, intelligent wine program is a reflection of the core philosophy that defines the restaurant.
Born and raised in a small town in south Maryland, Langley’s initial introduction to the industry was as a dishwasher at a local pizzeria at the age of 13. While his contemporaries found inspiration in the classroom, Langley was drawn to the rhythm and intensity of the restaurant world, acquiring a vast understanding of its inner workings through odd jobs that ran the gamut from line cook at regional chain Perkin’s to corporate trainer for Applebee’s openings to bar back at Solomon’s Pier, a seafood restaurant and nightclub.
In 1997, the then 20-year-old Langley leapt at an opportunity to relocate to Los Angeles, and stumbled into a position at Greenblatt’s, a beloved deli and wine shop in West Hollywood, that would ultimately pave the way for his future career. Langley furthered his three-year wine education at Greenblatt’s with a position at Dennis Overstreet’s Beverly Hills Wine Merchant, before joining the now-closed L’Orangerie in Beverly Hills as Sommelier in 2000. It was there that Langley crossed paths with Meehan, who he would subsequently work alongside at the late Bastide and Citrine.
After opening Bastide in 2002 as Commis Sommelier, and enjoying a stint as Wine Director at Citrine in 2003, Langley switched gears to lend support to entrepreneur and wine collector Jeff Smith for the launch of Carte Du Vin. His time at the local wine cellar management firm birthed and deepened relationships with prominent private collectors, relationships that inform his wine program at Kali today. In 2005, Langley joined the opening team at Providence, serving as Wine Director for Michael Cimarusti’s nationally-acclaimed seafood destination through 2015 when he left to prepare for Kali’s debut in early 2016.
An avid music enthusiast, when Langley is not refining his wine list with new finds or overseeing the day-to-day operations at Kali, the Koreatown resident can be found indulging in the local drum-and-bass culture.

This was a Foodie Club dinner, with just 6 of my regular dining intimates — and of course great wine.

1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut. VM 97. The vibrancy and drive of the vintage came through in spades in the 1996 Salon, which was flat-out stunning. The 1996 remains a youngster, but is immensely beautiful, even at this stage. Several recent bottles have been just as stunning.

Marinated mussels with some kind of foam. Very nice.

The fancy Dom P Oenotheque box.

1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque. VM 97. The 1996 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque has really turned a corner over the last six months or so. When it was originally introduced the 1996 was hard as nails, today it is an exquisite Champagne that captures the essential brightness and energy of the year. Lemon, slate, oyster shells and white flowers stain the palate in an intense, beautifully sculpted Champagne of the highest level.

Polenta cube with uni.

1996 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne. VM 93+. Lime, smoked meat and spicy, vanillin oak aromas. Dense but bright and juicy; sharply focused, intense flavors of lemon, lime, spiced apple and mineral dust. Penetrating acidity gives this a sinewy quality today. Finishes with a flavor and texture of pulverized stones. This grew richer and richer in the glass, showing strong soil character and powerful structure.

From my cellar: 2000 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux. BH 92. Wonderfully intense, green, slightly austere Chablis fruit aromas lead to richly detailed, mouth coating and sappy flavors of extraordinary pungency and while this doesn’t quite have the size of the ’00 Valmur, it has all of the intensity and length. In short, this is a first rate effort with plenty of classic Chablis character.

Yellowtail, radish, tomato, lemon, herbs, marinated melon cucumber pickle. A fascinating blend of textures and flavors. Very very summery, with that watermelon, herb, ceviche thing going on.

Burrata, blackberries, tomatoes, pistachios, flowers. Brilliant and extremely unusual “caprese” execution with a blend of sweet, tangy, and creamy. Great texture too with the soft burrata and the pistachios.

Rosemary bread and butter.

1991 Faiveley Clos Vougeot. 90 points.

1996 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot. VM 92+. Deep, bright red-ruby. Complex, wild aromas of raw crushed blueberry, violet, raw meat and iron. Intense, primal flavors of crunchy berries and powdered stone. Integrated acidity gives the fruit an urgent quality. Quite powerfully structured for aging. Very long and bright on the back end, with tannins nicely supported by extract.

Black barely risotto. Black garlic, toasted cheese. A very nice whole grain with a creamy garlic herb vibe.

1993 Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares. VM 92+. Good deep youthful red. Quintessential briary Bonnes-Mares aromas of raspberry, roasted currant, mocha and menthol. Penetrating flavors of black cherry, flowers and mint; insinuating, ripe acids give the wine terrific verve and lift. Finishes long, vibrant and youthful, with firm but round tannins. Quite rich but not as concentrated or long as the ’96. “The crop size was down due to mildew. The aromas remind me of red Burgundies from 1953.

1993 Mongeard-Mugneret Grands-Echezeaux. 93 points. Great bourgogne. Classic in every respect and drinking very nicely now. Still potential for more positive evolution.

Black cod. Peas, mint, almond, white chocolate. Really a fabulous soft fish dish with crisp lovely summer peas.

Ron brought: 1999 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage A Jacques Perrin. Parker 96. Similar to the 2004 and made from a blend of 60% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Counoise, the 1999 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage À Jacques Perrin is a perfumed, gorgeously rich effort that excels on its elegance, complexity and length. From a cooler year and possessing bright acidity, full-bodied richness and building tannin, it offers up a smorgasbord of cured meats, licorice, dried flowers, spice and sweet berry fruit. Drinking nicely now, it should continue to evolve gracefully for another two decades.

Flannery beef hanger steak with “corn porn.” Leek char. Although a tiny bit overcooked this was some delicious beef and taken to the next level by the corn.

1997 Dalla Valle Maya Proprietary Red Wine. Parker 99. Close to perfection, the saturated blue/black-colored 1997 Maya exhibits complex aromatics of creme de cassis, smoke, spice box, iron, and espresso. The wine has a viscous texture, huge, concentrated, ripe fruit, remarkable body, and a seamless, multi-layered finish. The tannin, acidity, and alcohol are all beautifully integrated.
 1998 Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Parker 94-96. The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Pritchard Hill is a fine wine. While it does not reveal much weight, it is a dense plum/purple-colored, big, thick, concentrated effort. Evolved aromas of smoke, cedar, tapenade, blackberries, creme de cassis, and creosote are followed by a lush, full-bodied, voluptuously-textured 1998 exhibiting superb intensity as well as low acid, sweet, pure flavors. This is a dazzling example of extremely ripe Cabernet Sauvignon made under less than ideal conditions. It will drink well upon its release, and over the following two decades.

Kevin shows off the duck!

Duck breast, fruit, giant gnocchi. A really stand out juicy chunk of duck which really went well with the soft fruit.

1995 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape. Parker 93. From a hot year – with rain at harvest – that benefited later-picking estates, the 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape is still impressively young and vibrant, with a solid kick of tannin. Possessing a masculine edge to its licorice, smoked meats, peppery herbs and both red and black fruits, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and a little edgy on the palate, with plenty of similarities to the 2005. It certainly has another decade of longevity, but the tannin will be something to watch. I’ve had more ready to go bottles from my cellar and certainly see no reason to hold off here.

Lamb with cranberry beans and tomato. Great jus here. Also the beans were marinated for days in tomato soup!

Toasted Meringue Gelato. grated candied yolk. This tasted like sweet cream with a dusting of salty eggy goodness. It was mild, creamy, and absolutely stunning. I ate two.

Bittersweet chocolate and orange truffles.

Overall, not only was this a great meal with great friend (and wine), but Kevin’s food was really bang up fabulous. He’s always been a very talented chef but it seems to me, and I noted how in my previous visit that he’s really polished the cooking. This trend has continued, because in a few short months things have gone from great to… well greater. I don’t know anyone else in LA that’s doing this kind of ingredient focused cooking and yet nailing it with such bright pure flavors. The dishes have this balanced tension that is very sophisticated and some of them are pretty stand out amazing like the yellowtail, burrata, cod, steak, duck, and gelato — and noticed how I named a LOT of dishes because the percentage of knock outs is very high!

Service was great. We felt like family.

Really great stuff. Bravo Kevin and Drew!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

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  3. Big Bottle Madness at Kali Dining
  4. California Dreaming
  5. Uni All the Way Down
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: California Cuisine, Drew Langley, Foodie Club, Kali, Kevin Meehan

Valentines at Michael’s

Mar18

Restaurant: Michael’s Santa Monica

Location: 1147 Third Street, Santa Monica, CA 90403. 310-451-0843

Date: February 14, 2013

Cuisine: New American

Rating: Great job with a tough night

_

Valentines is a notoriously difficult night to get a great meal on. The frenzied rush to maximize profits usually results in lackluster service and stilted over-priced fixed menus.

The first Valentines my wife and I celebrated was at Michaels, a Santa Monica staple that many credit for inventing New Californian cuisine, so we decided to head back and try it out. Things have been substantially updated this year both in decor and with regard to the menu — which is a necessity for any restaurant entering it’s 4th decade!


Michaels has a fantastic garden in back, which remains a nice temperature all year round due to heat lamps.


The special Valentines menu.


The ripe pear and hazelnut nose is marred by a note of lactic acid that leads to rich, sweet and generous medium-bodied flavors that possess good detail on the linear finish. I found this to be a bit disappointing reative to what I originally saw in cask as the nose is curious. This was a tad “advanced”, way more oxidized than it should have been.


Fromage blanc infused with maple and salmon roe.


Roasted Winter Squash Soup. Sherry Gastrique, Burrata, Sage, Chive.


Cowgirl (WA) and Cowboy (NY) Oysters on the half shell, Citrus Mignonette.


Asian Pear with Thyme, Citrus Brown Butter, Walnuts, Pecorino Fiore Sardo.


Seared Ahi Tuna “Carpaccio Style” Parsley, Roasted Garlic, Bone Marrow Vinaigrette.


Grilled Wild Stripped Bass. English Peas, Caramelized Shallots, Orange Nage.


Braised Prime Short Ribs. Coconut Polenta, Watercress and Pickled Chile Salad, Aromatic Soy Reduction.


Chocolate-Hazelnut Bar. Almond/Sesame Brittle, Blood Orange Caramel, Creme Fraiche.


Coconut Tapioca Pudding. Berry Caramel, Lime Zest, Coconut Oat Crisp.

This was both a nice menu and good execution. There were a few small service errors, but they recovered nicely. Overall, as Valentines dinners, go this was a very good one and we need to return and try the new menu on a regular night.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Capo Valentines
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  3. Fraiche Santa Monica part deux
  4. Fraiche Santa Monica
  5. Ice Cream & Coffee
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: 2005 White Burgundy, American Cuisine, Burrata, California Cuisine, Meursault, Michael's Santa Monica, valentines day, White Burgundy

The New Cal Cuisine: Rustic Canyon

Nov16

Restaurant: Rustic Canyon [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 1119 Wilshire Blvd. Santa Monica, Ca 90401. 310-393-7050

Date: Aug 25, 2010

Cuisine: Farmer’s Market Californian

ANY CHARACTER HERE

Having lived for 16 years in LA I’ve watched the evolution of California Cuisine. When I first came here we were still in the fading years of the 80s eclectic, typified by places like Spago or 90s fusion like Matsuhisa or the much missed Abiquiu. Today, it’s all about being ingredient driven, and Rustic Canyon is one of our many fine examples of this trend.

Burrata with peaches. You can pretty much never go wrong with Burrata or Fresh peaches.

An heirloom tomato (this very buzz word a legacy of the trend), cucumber, yogurt, goat cheese salad.

Tonight’s pick from my cellar. I love my burgs. RP gives it 93, “The dark colored 1997 Latricieres-Chambertin has profound prune, plum, and licorice flavors. This satin-textured, explosive, deep, masculine wine is tannic, structured, and powerful. Blackberry juice, mint, and plums can be found throughout its deep flavor profile and opulently flavored, persistent finish. It will require cellaring patience yet has the potential for mid- to long-term aging. Projected maturity: 2003-2012+.”

Sweet corn soup, with Pistou. This dish had an unctuous foamy texture, and brought out the very best in sweet corn flavor.

A trio of crustini. Each with very interesting (and delicious) flavor profiles. Tomatos and basil, new style. Anchovies (not the over salted sort) and a sweetish tapanade, crisp goat cheese and olives.

Homemade Gnocchi, with fresh Genoese pesto. This brought out the lovely brightness of the basil.

Sweet corn (again :-)) Agnolotti. Yum. Fresh pasta, which you never saw 10 years ago.

Cinnamon beignets with a foamy chocolate cappachino sauce. This is really a variant of the traditional Spanish churro with chocolate. And that’s not a bad thing because both are delicious! These were hot hot out of the frier.

Related posts:

  1. Food as Art: Bistro LQ
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By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Burrata, California, California Cuisine, Dessert, Farmer's Market, Food, Fruit and Vegetable, Los Angeles, pasta, Pistou, Restaurant, review, reviews, Rustic Canyon, Salad, Santa Monica California, Spago, vegetarian, Wilshire Boulevard
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