Restaurant: Pasjoli
Location: 2732 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405. (424) 330-0020
Date: April 17, 2025
Cuisine: French
Chef: Dave Beran / Marcus Jernmark
Rating: One of the best here yet
Dave first encountered Marcus Jernmark’s culinary genius during visits to Aquavit in NY and 3 Michelin star Frantzén in Sweden. Though they didn’t meet then, Dave was captivated by the meals. Years later, Marcus visited Dialogue, Dave’s first LA restaurant, and the two chefs connected over their shared journey of leaving the three-star world to forge their own paths. “Marcus is a kindred spirit,” Dave says. “We both chose the road less traveled, and it’s brought us here.” This dinner is a toast to bold choices and bold flavors.
Pasjoli opened its doors on Main Street in September 2019, the second Santa Monica venture from chef-owner Dave Beran, who earned national attention at Chicago’s Next and later at the tiny, tasting-menu-only Dialogue a few blocks north. With Pasjoli he set out to create the kind of grand Parisian bistro he had always admired—one that honors the rigor of Escoffier while remaining rooted in Southern California’s markets. The kitchen turns out pâté en croûte studded with pistachios, buttery quenelles of pike in lobster sauce, and the show-stopping pressed duck for two, yet the produce is hauled in daily from the Santa Monica Farmers Market and the sauces are lightened to suit the beach climate. That marriage of classical French technique and coastal seasonality quickly drew raves, a spot on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list, and in 2021 a Michelin star, cementing Pasjoli as one of the city’s essential fine-dining addresses.
The room amplifies the food’s quietly luxurious spirit. A façade of folding glass doors keeps the dining room airy by day, while at night low amber lighting glints off a pewter bar, burgundy leather banquettes, and brass railings that recall a Belle Époque brasserie without lapsing into nostalgia. The soundtrack is lively, the service choreographed but relaxed, and the energy spills onto the sidewalk tables that watch the steady buzz of Main Street. In a neighborhood better known for beach cafés and juice bars, Pasjoli provides a grown-up counterpoint—elegant yet unpretentious, driven by craft rather than trend. Its arrival signaled a maturing of Santa Monica’s dining scene, and four years on it remains a magnet for chefs, sommeliers, and diners who want to taste classic French cuisine filtered through a distinctly Californian lens.
Chef-owner Dave Beran grew up in Wisconsin, cut his teeth in Chicago, and made his name working alongside Grant Achatz at Alinea before taking the helm at the Alinea Group’s boundary-pushing restaurant Next. During his five-year run there he orchestrated the famed rotating menus—most memorably “Paris 1906” and “Tribute to elBulli”—and earned a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Great Lakes in 2014. In 2017 he decamped to the West Coast, opening the 18-seat tasting counter Dialogue in Santa Monica, which garnered a Michelin star in its first California guide. Pasjoli, his bustling French restaurant on Main Street, followed in late 2019 and soon claimed a star of its own, cementing Beran as one of the rare chefs to earn Michelin recognition on two coasts.
Pasjoli channels the rigor of haute cuisine into the soul of a Parisian bistro. Beran is fascinated by the structure and precision of classic French technique—an obsession born while recreating Escoffier’s dishes at Next—yet he tempers that formality with the easy affluence of Southern California produce and a room set for neighborhood conviviality rather than hushed reverence. The pressed duck à la rouennaise, carved tableside with an antique silver duck press, is a signature centerpiece, while seemingly humble plates like onion tart or a croque monsieur arrive layered with painstaking detail, hidden stocks, and sauces that take days to build. His cooking carries the intellectual curiosity of the modernist kitchens he came from, but the plating is deliberately unfussy, foregoing tweezers for the warmth of a bistro.
Beran’s guiding philosophy is that luxury should feel generous, not exclusionary. He believes a restaurant’s role is to “honor the people who grew the ingredients and the guests who saved up to eat them,” so menus are written around peak-season markets, staff are encouraged to describe dishes in plain language, and service aims for polish without pretense. The result is a restaurant that nods to the grand traditions of Taillevent and Troisgros while speaking the relaxed dialect of Santa Monica—a place where a perfect omelet and a grand cru Burgundy can share the same table, united by the idea that craft and comfort should never be at odds.
Welcome cocktail. A little sweet but delicious, this drink offers a refreshing balance that tantalizes the palate. Its vibrant color and inviting aroma make it a perfect start to any meal.
Cheese rind “en croûte” is a delightful dish that showcases the rich, creamy texture of cheese enveloped in a crisp, golden crust. The contrast between the crunchy exterior and the luscious interior creates a satisfying bite, while the flavors meld beautifully, offering a savory experience that is both comforting and indulgent.
Buckwheat “pannkaka”: Swedish vendace roe, raw beef, and egg yolk garum*. This dish presents a delightful interplay of textures, with the nutty buckwheat pancake providing a hearty base for the rich, creamy yolk and the delicate, briny roe. Each bite is a harmonious blend of flavors that celebrates the essence of Swedish cuisine.
Charred broccolini is beautifully complemented by pickled fennel and a sprinkle of fennel furikake, creating a delightful balance of flavors. The whipped goat cheese adds a creamy richness, while the market greens provide a fresh, vibrant crunch that elevates the dish.
Ris de veau agnolotti features delicate pasta parcels filled with sweetbreads, complemented by earthy morels, savory aged duck ham, and a touch of fortified wine. The dish is a harmonious blend of rich flavors and luxurious textures, with the agnolotti offering a tender bite that beautifully contrasts the umami depth of the other ingredients.
Short rib smørrebrød features tender, flavorful short rib atop a crisp, hearty bread, complemented by pickled cucumber, egg jam, dijonnaise, and vibrant watermelon radish. The dish offers a delightful contrast of textures, with the richness of the meat balanced by the acidity of the pickles and the creaminess of the egg jam.
The dish, Braised Beef Tartine, presents a stunning tableau of rich mahogany hues, inviting the diner to delve into its depths. The air is perfumed with a tantalizing blend of umami and herbs, each note harmonizing to evoke a sense of rustic elegance. The tartine’s crust is a masterclass in texture, boasting a crisp exterior that yields to a tender, savory filling of slow-cooked beef, while the delicate interplay of pickled cucumbers and fresh herbs adds a refreshing crunch. Each bite is a symphony of flavors, where the earthiness of the meat meets the bright acidity of the garnishes, creating a culinary experience that is both luxurious and grounded in tradition.
Asparagus with caraway sauce mousseline is a delightful dish that showcases the vibrant green spears, elegantly draped in a creamy, herb-infused sauce. The tender asparagus offers a crisp bite, while the caraway adds a subtle warmth and complexity, making for a beautifully balanced flavor profile.
Grilled rainbow trout is beautifully complemented by asparagus and a caraway sauce mousseline, adorned with market herbs and flowers. The fish boasts a delicate, flaky texture and a subtly smoky flavor, while the vibrant herbs and flowers add a refreshing touch to the dish.
Apple & rhubarb tarte tatin is a delightful twist on the classic French dessert, featuring the perfect balance of sweet apples and tart rhubarb. The caramelized crust is beautifully golden, while the tender fruit beneath offers a luscious, melt-in-your-mouth experience that is both comforting and sophisticated.
Fromage blanc sherbet, lavender caramel. This delightful dessert boasts a creamy, smooth texture that contrasts beautifully with the silky sweetness of the lavender caramel, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. The subtle floral notes elevate the dish, making it a refreshing and elegant treat.
Tasty stuff!
