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Takeda Two

Aug18

Restaurant: Takeda Sushi [1, 2]

Location: 123 Astronaut Ellison S Onizuka St #307, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 613-0083

Date: April 11, 2025

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi

Rating: Could be the best sushi I’ve had in LA

_

Since opening its quietly elegant doors in 2021 at 118 Judge John Aiso Street in Little Tokyo, Sushi Takeda has become an insider favorite among Los Angeles omakase counters. The restaurant is owned and helmed by chef-proprietor Hideyuki “Hideo” Takeda, a Tokyo native who spent decades honing Edomae technique at respected sushi bars in both Japan and Southern California before striking out on his own. His 14-seat space is a study in restrained Japanese design—blond hinoki, charcoal slate, and a single, gleaming sushi bar where every evening’s service unfolds like a choreographed whisper.

Takeda’s culinary philosophy centers on precision, seasonality, and minimal intervention: fish is flown in daily from Toyosu Market or sourced from specialty West Coast fishermen, then meticulously aged, cured, or lightly torched to coax out umami. Koshihikari rice seasoned with akazu red vinegar is molded into compact, two-bite nigiri that vanish as quickly as they appear. The effect is a serene, almost meditative progression of flavors—Santa Barbara uni laced with yuzu, lightly pickled kohada, sublimely fatty toro—served directly from the chef’s hand. In a downtown scene crowded with high-profile sushi counters, Sushi Takeda occupies a niche of understated excellence, earning nods from critics and dedicated regulars alike for delivering one of the city’s most authentic, deeply personal omakase experiences.

With its vibrant pink umbrellas and sleek modern architecture, the airy outdoor space invites diners to indulge in a lively culinary experience, seamlessly blending contemporary design with a relaxed, sociable atmosphere.

Takeda’s omakase is formally Edomae yet unmistakably personal. He seasons Koshihikari rice with a blend of two akazu (sake-lees vinegars) for contrast and temperature-controls every neta in individual cedar drawers, but he allows himself flourishes learned in California: a whisper of smoked soy on kinmedai, freshly grated wasabi folded with Santa Barbara uni, or an optional pairing of Hokkaido scallop and Baja citrus that would scandalize the purists back home. Influences range from his mentor Masaki Sato—who drilled into him the virtue of restraint—to the late LA pioneer Hiro Urasawa, whose theatrical minimalism convinced Takeda that intimacy could be as memorable as luxury.

Within three years the restaurant earned a Michelin star, a spot on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best Restaurants,” and a quiet cult among visiting chefs. Takeda credits the accolades to a philosophy he phrases simply: “Ichigo-ichie—one moment, one meeting.” The night’s menu is built not around status fish but around conversation: what the diner is curious about, what the fisherman happened to land, what the season offers that will never be repeated in exactly the same way. “Technique keeps the past alive,” he likes to say, “but hospitality is how we cook for the present.”

Bathed in a serene palette of soft yellows and clean lines, Sushi Takeda’s exterior beckons diners with its understated elegance — way understated.

The menu at Sushi Takeda features a curated Signature Omakase experience.

The 2009 Batard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive is a stunning representation of Burgundy’s Grand Cru pedigree. This rich, complex Chardonnay showcases aromas of ripe stone fruits, subtle oak, and a hint of minerality, reflecting its terroir beautifully. With a creamy texture and vibrant acidity, it pairs exquisitely with lobster in a butter sauce or a delicate roasted chicken.

As an example of exceptional craftsmanship, this wine delights with layers of flavor, including notes of hazelnut and honey, complemented by a long, elegant finish. The vintage’s warm growing season has resulted in a wine that is approachable now yet possesses the structure to evolve gracefully over time, making it a perfect choice for special occasions.

Baby eel and uni is a delightful combination that showcases the ocean’s bounty. The tender, slightly chewy texture of the baby eel pairs beautifully with the creamy, briny richness of the uni, creating a harmonious balance of flavors that is both fresh and indulgent.

Hairy crab ball is a delightful dish that showcases the sweet, tender meat of hairy crab, expertly blended into a savory ball. Its crispy exterior gives way to a rich, flavorful filling, making each bite a satisfying experience that captures the essence of coastal cuisine.

Salon, located in the renowned Côte des Blancs region of Champagne, produces this exquisite 1996 vintage, a true embodiment of elegance and finesse. Known for its pure Chardonnay expression, this Champagne showcases notes of white flowers, citrus zest, and a hint of brioche. Its creamy texture and persistent bubbles make it a perfect pairing for delicate seafood dishes, such as oysters or lobster.

The 1996 vintage is particularly celebrated for its balance and aging potential, allowing it to develop complex flavors over time. With its vibrant acidity and minerality, this wine not only delights the palate but also invigorates the senses, making it an exceptional choice for special occasions or sophisticated gatherings.


Blue fin.

Condiments.

Conch.

Young red snapper.

Presented with an air of quiet elegance, the dish Umi no Sachi captivates the senses with its vibrant hues of deep emerald and gold. The aroma wafts gently, an inviting blend of umami and the briny essence of the ocean, drawing you closer. The texture is a harmonious interplay of creamy richness enveloped in a delicate, crisp seaweed that crackles with each bite. As you savor it, the flavor unfolds—subtle yet profound, with layers of sweetness and a whisper of saltiness that linger, echoing the sea’s bounty and leaving a memorable imprint on the palate.

Spechial uni from near Kobe—almost “aged.” This delicacy boasts a creamy texture and a subtly sweet, briny flavor that lingers on the palate, showcasing the unique umami profile of the region. Its appearance is a vibrant golden hue, inviting and luxurious.

Eaten with toasted nori and creamy like fermented butter! The combination offers a delightful contrast between the crisp, umami-rich nori and the rich, velvety texture of the dish, creating a harmonious balance that is both comforting and indulgent.


Bluefin tuna.

Chef Hideyuki Takeda was born in Sapporo, where his family ran a small fish-wholesaling business that kept him on the docks before dawn from the time he could walk. After an apprenticeship in the kitchens of Tokyo’s Tsukiji market district, he spent a decade behind the counter at some of the capital’s most exacting Edomae houses—first at Sushi Matsunami in Nihonbashi and later at the two-Michelin-starred Sushi Shin in Ginza—before moving to California in 2012. Los Angeles diners first met him as head itamae at the original Sushi Zo in downtown; stints at Q and Shiki Beverly Hills followed, sharpening both his English and his understanding of the American palate. In 2020 he struck out on his own, opening Sushi Takeda on a quiet second-floor mezzanine in DTLA’s Jewelry District, where the 10-seat hinoki counter now books out weeks in advance.


Firefly squid.

The Salon Champagne, produced in the renowned Côte des Blancs region of France, is a stunning example of a vintage Blanc de Blancs. The 2008 vintage showcases a remarkable balance of crisp acidity and delicate effervescence, offering notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a touch of brioche. This elegant sparkling wine pairs exquisitely with seafood dishes, particularly freshly shucked oysters or a delicate lobster salad.

With its rich history and meticulous craftsmanship, Salon’s wines are a celebration of terroir, making it a perfect choice for special occasions. The 2008 vintage’s complexity and depth resonate beautifully with the refined palate, ensuring a memorable tasting experience that elevates any gathering.

Squid with bottarga is a delightful dish that showcases the briny richness of the sea. The tender squid is perfectly complemented by the umami-packed bottarga, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures. Its elegant presentation invites you to savor each bite, making it a memorable culinary experience.

Chawanmushi with seaweed, yuzu, and oyster is a delicate Japanese steamed egg custard that beautifully balances savory and umami flavors. The silky texture is complemented by the briny richness of the oyster and the bright citrus notes of yuzu, creating a dish that is both comforting and refreshing.


Squid egg!  (sack)

The squid eggs out of their case. Not for the faint of heart.

Mackerel.

Firefly squid a second way, marinated with sake and Chinese wine. This dish showcases the delicate sweetness of the squid, enhanced by the umami of the marinade, resulting in a tender and flavorful bite that is visually striking with its iridescent hues.

Abalone with abalone sauce is a dish that showcases the delicate, briny flavor of the sea. The tender, slightly chewy texture of the abalone is beautifully complemented by the rich, umami-packed sauce, creating a harmonious balance that is both luxurious and satisfying.

The 1999 Chablis Grand Cru Clos from Domaine William Fèvre showcases the pinnacle of Chardonnay from the Chablis region. Its vibrant acidity balances the complex layers of citrus, green apple, and a hint of flint, reflecting the terroir’s unique minerality. This elegant wine pairs beautifully with fresh oysters or poached fish, enhancing the dish’s delicate flavors.

The rich history of this Grand Cru, marked by its limestone soil and meticulous vineyard practices, results in an exquisite wine that evolves gracefully with age. The 1999 vintage, in particular, offers a luscious mouthfeel and a long, persistent finish, making it a perfect accompaniment to creamy sauces or aged cheeses.


Goldeneye snapper.

Kama toro (collar). I’m not sure I’ve had this anywhere other than ootoro. This cut is known for its rich, buttery texture and a delicate balance of savory flavors, making it a true delicacy for sushi lovers.

Shirako agodashi is a delightful dish that showcases the delicate flavors of cod milt, served in a savory dashi broth. The silky texture of the shirako contrasts beautifully with the umami-rich broth, creating a comforting and unique experience that is both intriguing and satisfying.

Saba (Japanese mackerel) with crispy nori is a delightful dish that showcases the rich, buttery flavor of the fish, complemented by the satisfying crunch of the nori. The combination creates a beautiful contrast in texture, making each bite a pleasure.

Sardine shiso roll is a delightful fusion of flavors, marrying the rich, umami taste of sardines with the refreshing, herbaceous notes of shiso. The roll presents a vibrant appearance, with the deep green shiso leaves wrapping around the succulent sardine, creating a harmonious balance of textures and tastes that is both satisfying and invigorating.


Sardine.

The 2008 Meursault from Domaine Coche-Dury, hailing from the prestigious Burgundy region, showcases the elegance and complexity that this producer is renowned for. This Chardonnay presents a rich bouquet of ripe pear and toasted hazelnuts, interlaced with a vibrant minerality. With its lush texture and refreshing acidity, it pairs beautifully with roasted chicken or creamy risottos, enhancing the dish’s flavors while offering a delightful contrast.

Each sip reveals layers of flavor, with hints of citrus and a subtle touch of oak, reflecting the meticulous craftsmanship of Coche-Dury. This vintage is particularly noteworthy for its balance and finesse, making it an excellent companion for dishes like lobster with butter sauce or a classic Coq au Vin.


Scallop.

Baby sea eel.

Belt fish.

Ikura and Uni are a delightful pairing that showcases the ocean’s bounty. The briny burst of the ikura, or salmon roe, contrasts beautifully with the creamy, buttery richness of the uni, or sea urchin. Together, they create a luxurious experience that is both visually stunning and decadently flavorful.

Tamago is a delicate Japanese omelet, often served in sushi or as a standalone dish. Its soft, slightly sweet layers are expertly folded, creating a beautiful golden hue that is both visually appealing and satisfying to the palate. The balance of flavor and texture makes it a beloved staple in Japanese cuisine.

Yuzu spritz is a refreshing cocktail that beautifully balances the bright, citrusy notes of yuzu with a crisp effervescence. Its vibrant appearance and zesty flavor make it a delightful choice for warm days, offering a unique twist on the classic spritz that invigorates the palate.

Meet our enthusiastic diner, raising a glass to celebrate the exquisite flavors of the evening.

Chef selfie.

This was one incredible lineup of sushi and wine. Wow!

This was totally my style of omakase. It was mostly nigri, with each piece being both distinct and and memorable, almost sublime. The subtle curing, the deft but restrained use of “toppings”, and the assertive rice are all out of this world. It’s expensive. It’s a bit high maintenance. It’s for purists. But it is incredible!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Final Miyagi
  2. Totally Takeda
  3. Delightful Danbi
  4. Foodie Kusano
  5. Soy Sauce Mexican Chilies
By: agavin
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Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Champagne, DTLA, Foodie, Foodie Club, Friday Night, Sushi, White Burgundy, Wine
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