Restaurant: Inaba Restaurant (secret sushi) [1, 2]
Location: 20920 Hawthorne Blvd Ste 110, Torrance, CA 90503. (310) 371-6675
Date: November 22, 2024
Cuisine: Japanese Omakase Sushi
Chef: Hiroshi Takahashi
Rating: Awesome
Tonight’s dinner at I-Naba was at their special “secret” new sushi bar tucked away behind the restaurant. I was invited last minute by my friend Andrew for an all Salon dinner.
Inaba Restaurant opened on Hawthorne Boulevard in 1998 as the first mainland U.S. outpost of a small Tokyo group known for specialist tempura counters and hand-cut soba shops. The founder, chef-owner Kazuhiko Inoue, wanted a place where the fast-growing Japanese community in Torrance could taste the kind of perfectly gauged batter and shimmering dashi he had learned to make in Ginza. Backed by the Inaba family and still run by them today—Inoue’s daughter Saki now manages the dining room while veteran fry master Hiroshi Takahashi commands the seven-seat tempura bar—the restaurant has resisted expansion and social-media flash, choosing instead to keep its forty-odd seats filled through word of mouth and long-held trust.
Culinarily, Inaba works like a workshop rather than a modern Californian fusion spot: buckwheat from Hokkaido is milled in-house each morning for soba, shrimp are butterflied to exact millimeter depth so they lie flat in the fryer, and the cottonseed-sesame oil is replaced several times a service to keep the batter pale and aromatic. The room mirrors that quiet rigor—unfinished cedar beams, shoji screens, and a trickling stone fountain soften the hum of Hawthorne traffic outside. In a South Bay landscape dotted with ramen parlors and high-energy izakayas, Inaba has become a lodestar for classical technique; visiting Japanese executives sit elbow-to-elbow with local chefs who drop in after their own shifts to benchmark their dashi against Inoue’s. Its disciplined, almost ceremonial approach to tempura and noodles has made the restaurant less a trend and more a culinary touchstone—an anchor that reminds Torrance, year after year, how transportive simplicity can be when every detail is honored.
The 2013 Vintage Dom Pérignon hails from the prestigious Champagne region of France, crafted by the renowned Moët & Chandon. This exceptional blend showcases the elegance of both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, offering a refined style that exudes sophistication. With its notes of citrus, brioche, and subtle minerality, it pairs beautifully with delicate seafood dishes or creamy cheeses, making it an ideal choice for celebratory moments.
This is the private sushi bar.
A quiet fixture in L.A.’s South Bay for more than a decade, chef Hiroshi Takahashi presides over the 14-seat tempura counter and adjoining dining room at Inaba Restaurant in Torrance. Born in Nagano and formally schooled in the soba craft there, Takahashi apprenticed at the original Tempura Inaba in Tokyo’s Kamata district before spending stints at Ginza Kyubey and the Kaiseki house Wakuden in Kyoto. He was sent to California in 2010 to helm the brand’s U.S. outpost, bringing with him a fastidious Edomae sensibility sharpened by the lighter touch he picked up cooking kaiseki. Local critics quickly took notice: the L.A. Times called his batter “gossamer yet structured,” and Michelin added Inaba to its Bib Gourmand list in 2019; Japanese TV food writer Tamio Ikeda dubbed him “the ambassador of California shun,” a nod to the chef’s habit of sourcing Santa Barbara spot prawns and Weiser Family Farms vegetables the morning they hit their peak.
The “secret” i-naba sushi private omakase room is tucked away inside the Izakaya/Tempura house. Basically, one chef and us.
House-made buckwheat soba with Hokkaido uni and wasabi dashi. Stunning. Bright flavors. Bitey, rich noodles. Really good. The delicate, nutty essence of the buckwheat soba harmonizes beautifully with the creamy, briny richness of the Hokkaido uni, while the wasabi dashi provides a gentle, invigorating kick that elevates each bite. The dish presents a delightful interplay of textures, from the silky smoothness of the uni to the satisfying chew of the noodles, creating a captivating culinary experience.
Mullet Sashimi, yuzu, sea salt. Also very lovely. The delicate, translucent slices of mullet glisten with a subtle sheen, inviting you to savor their buttery texture. The bright acidity of yuzu dances on the palate, harmonizing beautifully with the crystalline sea salt, creating a refreshing and invigorating experience that lingers long after each bite.
Ikuara Chawnamushi. Really delicate and fabulous. The silky custard melts in your mouth, revealing the subtle umami of the dashi and the gentle sweetness of seasonal ingredients. Its ethereal texture is complemented by a fragrant, almost floral aroma, creating a harmonious balance that invites contemplation with each spoonful.
Just a few “decent” champagnes.
Presented with a masterful flourish, the dish of grilled mackerel captivates the senses with its shimmering, deep bronze skin, artfully charred to reveal a glistening sheen that hints at its succulence. As the aromatic wafts of smokiness entwine with the briny freshness of the sea, they evoke a sense of coastal nostalgia. The texture is a harmonious juxtaposition of crispness on the exterior, yielding to the tender, buttery flesh within, each bite releasing a burst of umami that dances on the palate. A subtle citrus note lingers, adding a bright counterpoint to the rich, savory depth, making this dish an unforgettable symphony of flavors that beckons for another indulgent taste.
Smoked Small Bonito. The smoke was cherry blossom and it was garnished with shiso sauce and onions. Really great too. Quite assertive. The delicate, smoky notes of the bonito harmonize beautifully with the fragrant shiso, while the crispness of the onions adds a delightful crunch. Each bite delivers a nuanced interplay of umami and subtle sweetness, inviting you to savor the complexity of flavors and textures on your palate.
Oil poached tilefish with crispy scales and seaweed gravy. Delicate. The fish glistens with a lovely sheen, its tender flesh yielding effortlessly to the fork, while the crispy scales add a delightful crunch. The umami-rich seaweed gravy envelops each bite, imparting a briny depth that beautifully complements the mild sweetness of the tilefish, creating a harmonious balance of oceanic flavors that linger on the palate.
Steamed Shirako from Hokkaido with zesty ponzu and radish. Perfect shirako — amazing. The delicate, creamy texture of the shirako is beautifully complemented by the bright acidity of the ponzu, while the crispness of the radish adds a refreshing crunch. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, inviting a sensory journey that is both refreshing and deeply satisfying.
Sous vide monkfish liver from Hokaido. Very soft and sweet. The liver boasts a delicate, buttery texture that melts in the mouth, while its subtle sweetness is accented by a hint of ocean brine. Visually striking, it presents a rich, creamy hue that invites you to savor its luxurious flavor profile, enhanced by the gentle warmth of the sous vide preparation.
House-made ginger (two types).
Shima Prefecture, Magaro. The fish was 260 lbs.
Baby sea bream cured in kombu. Baby sea bream cured in kombu. The delicate, translucent flesh of the fish glistens, revealing a subtle sheen that hints at its oceanic origins. As I take a bite, the umami richness of the kombu envelops my palate, harmonizing beautifully with the gentle sweetness of the bream, while a whisper of brininess lingers in the air, reminiscent of a serene coastal breeze.
Here we see the talented chef meticulously crafting a masterpiece, igniting the flavors that will soon delight the diners’ palates.
Torched Baracuda – The fish is lightly seared with a hint of citrus, offering a delicate balance of smokiness and brightness. The tender, flaky texture is complemented by a subtle char that enhances its natural sweetness, while the vibrant hues of the dish invite you to savor each bite. The aroma of the grilled fish mingles beautifully with the refreshing notes of the accompanying sauce, creating an elegant experience that lingers long after the last morsel is gone.
This exquisite sake is from the renowned producer Dewazakura, located in the Yamagata Prefecture. The 2020 vintage showcases a Junmai Daiginjo style, characterized by its polished rice and delicate aromas of melon and white flowers. Ideal for pairing with sashimi or light seafood dishes, it offers a refreshing finish that complements the purity of the ingredients.
Another standout is the 2021 release from the same producer, a Junmai Ginjo that captures the essence of its region with its vibrant acidity and notes of stone fruit and citrus. Its versatility makes it a perfect match for grilled chicken or flavorful vegetable dishes, enhancing the umami profile of the meal.
Japanese Knife Jar (sea bread), chewy with lots of wasabi. The vibrant green of the wasabi contrasts beautifully with the subtle, oceanic tones of the sea bread, creating a visually striking dish. Each bite delivers a delightful interplay of textures, where the softness of the bread is perfectly complemented by the sharp, pungent kick of the wasabi, awakening the palate and leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for more.
As the chef delicately assembles the tempura, the vibrant golden hue of the batter glistens under the soft lighting, promising a crisp texture that beckons the senses. The aroma wafts through the air, a tantalizing blend of warm oil and earthy vegetables, enticing with each passing moment. Upon the first bite, the delicate crunch gives way to tender morsels, their natural sweetness enhanced by a whisper of sea salt, creating a harmonious balance of flavors that lingers on the palate. This dish, a testament to the mastery of technique and the purity of ingredients, invites you to savor the artistry behind every element, leaving you enchanted and yearning for more.
Fried Japanese Green Eye Fish Handroll. Not sure I’ve had a fish stick handroll, but quite lovely. The delicate crunch of the fried exterior gives way to a tender, flaky interior, while the subtle umami of the fish harmonizes beautifully with the creamy texture of the accompanying ingredients. The vibrant colors and meticulous presentation elevate the experience, inviting you to savor each bite as the flavors unfold on your palate.
Fial Fish with its own Liver. The chew and sweetness on this dish was divine. The tender, silken texture of the fish harmonizes beautifully with the rich, unctuous liver, creating a luxurious mouthfeel that lingers pleasantly. Its delicate flavor, imbued with a hint of brininess, is artfully complemented by subtle undertones of earthiness, making each bite an exquisite experience.
Hokkaido Uni — perfect condition and grade.
Hokkaido Uni Nigiri, two ways: sea salt and soy sauce. The soy sauce was even better. The delicate, creamy texture of the uni melts luxuriously on the palate, while the umami-rich soy sauce amplifies its briny sweetness, creating a harmonious balance that dances between oceanic freshness and savory depth. Each bite is a sumptuous experience, with the glossy sheen of the nigiri inviting the senses to indulge in this exquisite culinary delight.
Otoro (18 day aged) Sushi. Incredible. The luscious, marbled fat of the otoro melts on the palate, releasing a symphony of umami that is both rich and delicate. Its vibrant pink hue, glistening with a slight sheen, invites the senses, while the subtle aroma of the ocean lingers in the air, enhancing the overall experience of this exquisite piece of sushi.
Cured Sawa. Salty! The vibrant hues of the cured fish glisten under a delicate sheen, inviting you to experience its rich, briny essence. Each bite reveals a delightful balance of flavors, where the saltiness is beautifully complemented by a subtle sweetness, evoking the essence of the ocean while offering a silky texture that melts effortlessly on the palate.
The G. Khan 2022 Chardonnay from Marfarm Vineyards in Edna Valley showcases a vibrant expression of California’s terroir. This organically farmed wine bursts with notes of crisp green apple and ripe pear, complemented by a subtle hint of vanilla from oak aging. Its bright acidity makes it a perfect match for seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a classic lobster risotto.
With its well-balanced structure and refreshing finish, this Chardonnay is a testament to the region’s potential for crafting elegant whites. The wine’s mineral undertones and citrus zest lend themselves beautifully to light salads and creamy pasta dishes, making it an excellent choice for various culinary pairings.
Mizataki Mushroom Dashi. So delicate and light. Smoky flavors. The dashi envelops the palate with a whisper of umami, its ethereal broth shimmering with a translucent allure. Each sip unveils a harmonious interplay of earthy notes and subtle smokiness, beckoning the senses with a fragrant bouquet that recalls a serene forest after rain.
Eel. Super soft and amazing.
Housemade Tomago. A delicate Japanese omelet that is both sweet and savory, with a silky texture that melts in your mouth. The golden layers are meticulously crafted, showcasing a beautiful gradient of color that invites you to take a bite. As you savor each morsel, the subtle umami notes mingle with a hint of sweetness, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate, while the aroma of fresh eggs adds a comforting warmth to the experience.
Coconut Cream Pie, Kappacino, and Blood Orange Sorbetto. The Coconut Cream Pie is a luscious balance of rich, velvety coconut filling nestled within a buttery crust, while the Kappacino offers an inviting aroma with its deep coffee notes intertwined with a hint of creamy sweetness. The Blood Orange Sorbetto is a refreshing explosion of vibrant citrus, striking a harmonious balance between tartness and delicate sweetness, beautifully presented in a radiant, jewel-like hue. Each dish is a testament to the art of flavor, showcasing a delightful interplay of textures and tastes that linger on the palate.
The gang. This was an incredible night with some absolutely first-rate sushi — up there with the best I have had this year. Not surprisingly, it’s similar in style to Miyagi. The wines were amazing, with all of them shining. The ’96 (particularly the first bottle) was awesome, but so were all the others. Even the ’12 opened up after a couple of hours into amazing white flowers. Best of all, the company was extremely convivial and relaxed. Great night! The sushi was a symphony of freshness, with each piece showcasing a delicate balance of flavors and textures, from the melt-in-your-mouth tuna to the crisp, vibrant garnishes. The wines, with their floral notes and complex layers, elevated the experience, creating a harmonious interplay that lingered delightfully on the palate.
