Na So Fast With the Duck

Location: 9055 Las Tunas Dr, Temple City, CA 91780. (626) 286-1999

Date: September 15, 2024

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Tian Yong

Rating: Still very good, but bring back the duck!

Bistro Na’s slipped into a modest Temple City strip mall in the spring of 2016, but the project was anything but modest. It is the first U.S. outpost of Beijing’s celebrated Najia Xiaoguan group, owned by the Na family, whose ancestors once served as imperial physicians to the Qing court. The Los Angeles restaurant is run day-to-day by general manager Jack Na, with menu oversight from corporate executive chef Tian Yong, who trains the local kitchen in the parent company’s exacting techniques. That pedigree explains both the ambition of the enterprise and its swift ascent: within three years it claimed a Michelin star, the first ever awarded to a Chinese restaurant in Southern California.

The kitchen’s guiding philosophy is to revive “imperial cuisine” for contemporary diners—dishes that balance Manchu and Han traditions, meticulous knife work, and lavish ingredients while keeping oil and seasoning surprisingly restrained. Signatures such as smoky “Peking-style” pork ribs, lychee-shaped sweet-and-sour shrimp, and chilled tofu custard arrive on porcelain as ornate as the food itself. The dining room extends the theme; behind carved wooden doors lie jade-green banquettes, cobalt-blue high-back chairs, and latticed screens that make the space feel like a palace transplanted into the San Gabriel Valley. In a region famous for its everyday noodle shops and dumpling houses, Bistro Na’s occupies a singular niche: a special-occasion destination that reminds local diners—and visiting food pilgrims—that Chinese cuisine can be as ceremonious and haute as any French tasting menu. Its presence has raised the bar for upscale Chinese dining in greater Los Angeles and broadened the conversation about what constitutes fine dining in the SGV.

We return to Bistro Na six months later — but alas, they claimed they are having trouble “sourcing” their Peking Duck, so that wasn’t available. Of course, we did book a private room — you have to for the real experience.

Private room again, of course!

Beijing-born executive chef Tian Yong came up through some of the Chinese capital’s most exacting kitchens, spending more than a decade at the original Na Jia Xiao Guan—an institution famous for reviving Qing-dynasty court dishes—and cooking at state banquets for visiting dignitaries before being tapped to lead the first overseas branch, Bistro Na’s, in Temple City in 2017. His classical training in Manchu-Han imperial technique shows in the knife work and labor-intensive sauces, yet years spent in California have taught him to lean on the purity of West-Coast produce and lighter seasonings. Under his watch the restaurant became the San Gabriel Valley’s first Michelin-starred Chinese dining room (earning and keeping a star in the 2019 and 2021 California Guides) and has appeared on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best Restaurants” list as well as Eater LA’s “Essential 38.”

Tian’s signature style is equal parts ceremonial and contemporary: lacquered “Prince Na’s” pork belly layered like a jewel box, sea cucumber braised until tremulous in mahogany-dark master stock, and cumin-perfumed lamb chops that nod to northern China while embracing the vigor of Southern California farmers-market herbs. Influences range from the palatial archives of the Manchu court to the precise French techniques he studied to refine plating and temperature control; the connecting thread is a devotion to balance—fat against acid, crunch against silk, nostalgia against surprise. The chef’s guiding philosophy is that imperial cuisine was never meant to be static: each generation of cooks is duty-bound to keep the spirit of refinement alive by adapting to the best ingredients at hand and the tastes of the moment. At Bistro Na’s that means elevating banquet traditions to a format that feels intimate rather than ostentatious, and letting every meticulously carved cucumber blossom or swallow-nest broth remind diners that elegance and generosity can—and should—share the same table.

Beef tripe and aorta in chili sauce. Sounds scary but was lovely. Nice crunchy, chewy texture. The dish presents an inviting crimson hue, with the chili sauce glistening under a delicate sheen. Each bite offers a harmonious interplay of heat and umami, complemented by the rich, meaty flavor of the tripe and the tender resilience of the aorta, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for another taste.

Pig’s Foot Jelly. These were the best I’ve had. Nicely porcine and delicious. The dish presents a beautiful amber hue, glistening with a delicate sheen that invites the eye. Each spoonful offers a luscious, gelatinous texture that melts effortlessly on the palate, releasing a rich, savory depth accented by subtle herbal notes.

Na’s Secret Tofu. Not that secret. Great texture. Slightly bland. Joe dish. The tofu presents itself with an inviting golden hue, its surface gently crisped to a delicate crunch that gives way to a velvety interior. While the seasoning may lack a bold punch, the subtle earthiness of the dish invites exploration, encouraging the diner to appreciate the nuanced interplay of flavor and texture.

Scallion Pancake. Another Joe dish, but an excellent version. The golden-brown exterior offers a satisfying crispness, giving way to a tender, layered interior infused with the aromatic essence of fresh scallions. Each bite provides a delightful balance of textures, while the savory notes dance on the palate, inviting you to savor the experience even longer.

Egg and chive “pockets.” The shells weren’t as crisp as I might have liked, but there were lots of fresh chives. The vibrant green of the chives contrasted beautifully with the delicate, pale yellow filling, offering a subtle yet aromatic herbal note that danced on the palate. Each bite revealed a gentle creaminess, complemented by the slight earthiness of the chives, creating a harmonious balance that lingered pleasantly in the mouth.

Spicy Tofu with Cod: Basically MaPo tofu with bits of cod. This added a delectable umami note. The dish presents a vibrant interplay of textures, where the silken tofu contrasts beautifully with the tender morsels of cod, all enveloped in a fragrant, spicy sauce that tantalizes the senses. The aroma is a complex symphony of spices, inviting you to indulge in its rich, savory depths.

Seafood Crispy Rice is a delightful dish that combines a medley of fresh seafood with crispy rice, creating an irresistible crunch. The vibrant colors of the seafood juxtaposed with the golden-brown rice present a feast for the eyes. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of savory umami and a subtle sweetness, enhanced by the aromatic notes of fresh herbs. The texture is a pleasing interplay of crispiness and tenderness, making it a truly satisfying culinary experience.

Here is the crispy rice and the hot seafood was poured over it—basically like those old “war bar” dishes at 1970s Chinese restaurants. The contrasting textures of the crunchy rice and the tender seafood create a delightful interplay, while the aromatic steam wafts up, inviting you to indulge. Each bite is a harmonious blend of savory umami and subtle sweetness, with the vibrant colors of the seafood adding an enticing visual appeal that captivates the senses.

Seafood Crispy Rice. Really fabulous. Lovely mellow yellow curry sauce, with sea cucumber and other goodles. So good over the rice. The dish presents a vibrant palette of golden hues, inviting you to dive into its rich, comforting embrace. Each bite reveals a harmonious interplay of textures, from the satisfying crunch of the crispy rice to the silky smoothness of the curry, while the oceanic notes of the sea cucumber add a subtle depth that lingers beautifully on the palate.

Cabbage with Dried Shrimp. They went back to the proper torn texture. The dish presents a stunning contrast of vibrant green cabbage, its leaves glistening with a subtle sheen, and the umami-rich dried shrimp that add a delicate crunch. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of earthy sweetness and briny depth, inviting you to savor the aromatic interplay of flavors and textures.

Fish Maw and Crab Liver Soup. Incredible again. So rich and umami with a great thick and chewy texture. The dish presents a luxurious golden hue, inviting the senses with its subtle briny aroma. Each spoonful envelops the palate in a velvety embrace, where the delicate sweetness of the crab liver beautifully balances the savory depth of the fish maw.

Simple fish. Too boring for my taste — but many people in the group love it.

Old Beijing Smoked Duck Breast: Duck breast, strawberry sauce, endive lettuce. The tender duck breast is beautifully infused with a smoky aroma, its rich, gamey flavor perfectly complemented by the bright, tangy sweetness of the strawberry sauce. The crisp endive adds a refreshing crunch, creating a delightful balance of textures that elevates each bite into an exquisite culinary experience.

Drunken Chicken. Very nice flavor, but not zingy enough for me. The dish presents a tantalizing mosaic of rich, savory hues, with the tender morsels of chicken infused with aromatic herbs and a subtle hint of umami. Each bite offers a delightful contrast between the succulent meat and the fragrant sauce, creating a comforting yet complex experience on the palate.

Pan Fried Beef Buns: Very nicely flavored beef and chive filling. Pretty temperature hot at the start and could have used a little vinegar/dumpling sauce to balance the hot fat. The golden-brown exterior offers a delightful contrast to the tender, juicy filling, while the aroma of savory beef and fresh chives wafts enticingly, inviting you to take a bite. Each mouthful delivers a satisfying crunch followed by a burst of rich flavors, creating a harmonious balance that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Fried Mixed Mushrooms with Rice Cracker Bites. OMG, these were like potato-stick crack. They felt “hollow,” crispy, and coated in an almost candied shell. So good! The earthy notes of the mushrooms harmonized beautifully with the subtle sweetness of the shell, creating a delightful contrast in both flavor and texture. Each bite offered a satisfying crunch, releasing a bouquet of umami that lingered enticingly on the palate.

Shrimp and Dried Seafood Fried Rice. Oh so good. The vibrant medley of colors in this dish is as enticing as its aroma, with the succulent shrimp glistening against the backdrop of perfectly cooked, fluffy rice. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of briny seafood notes and subtle umami, complemented by a whisper of smokiness that lingers long after the last morsel has been savored.

With a bit of tofu on it.

Mountain Yam in brown sauce. My least favorite dish — just because it was starchy. The earthy notes of the mountain yam were somewhat subdued by the syrupy brown sauce, which clung to each piece, creating a slightly gelatinous texture. Despite its lack of appeal to my palate, the dish offered an intriguing contrast of color, with the rich brown sauce enveloping the pale, creamy yam, presenting a modest yet inviting appearance.

Braised Abalone & Pork Belly with Chinese Puffy Pie — very Chinese fancy. Great version of this classic Shanghai dish — plus abalone. The pork was super succulent, and the sweet brown sauce had a nice depth of star anise. Each bite of the tender abalone melded beautifully with the rich, luscious pork belly, while the delicate, flaky puffy pie added a textural contrast that was both satisfying and exquisite. The aromatic notes of the star anise lingered in the air, enhancing the overall sensory experience of this delightful dish.

Puffy Pie (aka sesame bun). This delightful creation features a soft, pillowy texture with a golden-brown exterior that beckons you closer. The nutty aroma of toasted sesame seeds wafts through the air, enticing the senses. Each bite reveals a delicate balance of sweetness and earthiness, complemented by the subtle crunch of the seeds that provides a satisfying contrast to the airy interior.

Crispy Lamb Belly. Great dish, but I was getting full. The succulent lamb belly, with its golden-brown crispiness, offers a delightful contrast between the tender meat and its crackling exterior. Each bite is a harmonious blend of savory richness, enhanced by subtle notes of herbs that linger on the palate, while the aroma evokes a rustic warmth that invites you to savor every morsel.

Mint Oreo and Chocolate Orange Gelato is a delightful combination that I can’t get enough of. The creamy gelato delivers a refreshing burst of mint, harmoniously layered with the rich, velvety notes of chocolate orange. Each scoop presents a visual feast, with vibrant green and deep cocoa swirls enticing the eye, while the contrasting textures of smooth gelato and crunchy Oreo pieces provide a playful mouthfeel. The aroma is a captivating blend of sweet chocolate and invigorating mint, making each indulgent bite a multi-sensory experience that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Bistro Na’s menu features a delightful array of dessert options, highlighting creative flavor combinations such as Chocolate Orange and Mint Oreo, showcasing both classic indulgences and modern twists on beloved favorites.

Fruit.

The dish, a masterful creation known as Gâteau de Mamie, presents itself as a golden-hued triumph, its sun-kissed crust glistening with a delicate sheen that beckons the eye. As you draw closer, the air is infused with the nostalgic aroma of caramelized sugar mingling with the warm, buttery notes of pastry, promising a rich experience. The texture is a harmonious contrast; the outer layer is crisp and flaky, yielding to reveal a tender, airy interior that melts effortlessly on the palate. Each bite unveils a symphony of flavors, where the sweetness is perfectly balanced by a hint of salt, evoking memories of cherished family gatherings and celebrations. This cake is not merely a dessert; it is an invitation to savor life’s simplest pleasures.

Crepe Cake — delicious. This delicate stack of paper-thin crepes, layered with velvety cream, offers a sublime experience that is both visually stunning and texturally enchanting. The subtle sweetness of each crepe harmonizes beautifully with the rich filling, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that lingers on the palate, inviting you to savor each exquisite bite.

Candies.

Chocolate Potato Chips are a delightful combination of sweet and salty, where crisp, thin potato chips are enrobed in a rich layer of dark chocolate. The initial crunch of the chip gives way to a velvety smoothness of chocolate that lingers on the palate, creating a harmonious contrast that is both unexpected and satisfying. The glossy sheen of the chocolate, paired with the rustic texture of the chip, invites you to indulge further, while the aroma of cocoa mingles enticingly with the savory notes of the potato, resulting in a snack that is both comforting and sophisticated.

The works.

The wines were great tonight.

Another super fun evening. Bistro Na was on fire tonight, and the only problem was that they “were out of” the peking duck. They told us they are having problems with sourcing it — I wonder if it’s just too labor-intensive. Hopefully, they bring it back. But we had lots of other amazing dishes. As we began at 4:30 pm, we had plenty of time for an early foot massage!