Restaurant: Marino Ristorante [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]
Location: 6001 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 466-8812
Date: August 21, 2024
Cuisine: Italian
Chef: Salvatore “Sal” Marino
Rating: On of the best
Marino Ristorante is one of Los Angeles’s quiet legends, a family-run Italian dining room whose story stretches back to 1952, when Neapolitan émigré Ciro Marino opened his first trattoria for studio executives and movie stars hungry for a taste of home. After two earlier locations, the Marinos commissioned a low-slung, glass-fronted building on Melrose Avenue in 1983 and never looked back. Ownership has stayed strictly in the family: Ciro’s sons now steer the ship—chef Salvatore “Sal” Marino in the kitchen, his brother Mario overseeing the dining room and wine program—while their mother, Maria, still greets regulars at the door. That continuity has made Marino Ristorante both a living slice of Hollywood history and a welcoming neighborhood anchor for Larchmont Village.
Sal Marino’s culinary philosophy folds old-world discipline into the hyper-seasonal bounty of Southern California. The menu pivots around house-made pastas, pristine seafood crudi, and produce—especially heirloom tomatoes—plucked from the family’s own farm plots, then treated with the minimalist respect of Naples. The dining room, with its original terrazzo floor, walnut paneling, and wall of celebrity photographs, evokes mid-century glamour while a sleek marble bar and leafy patio keep the mood contemporary. In a city continually chasing the next big thing, Marino Ristorante occupies a rarified place: a restaurant that helped define the local Italian scene and still sets the standard for gracious, ingredient-driven cooking more than seven decades after the first plate of spaghetti left Ciro’s hands.
Marino’s: an August night outside on the patio for Tomato Wednesday!
The restaurant’s outdoor space exudes an inviting charm, where soft golden lanterns cast a warm glow over elegantly set tables, creating an enchanting atmosphere that encourages lingering conversations. Vibrant greenery interspersed among the tables enhances the sense of intimacy, while the playful backdrop of a pastel pink facade adds a touch of whimsy.
Just for us!
Producer: Philippe Gonet
Region: Champagne, France
Vintage: 1999
Style: Brut Champagne
Pairing: Ideal with oysters, seafood, or light appetizers to complement its crisp acidity and complex flavors.
Capichera VT – Produced in Sardinia, Italy, this white wine from the 2021 vintage showcases a vibrant character with notes of citrus and herbs. It pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled fish and shellfish.
Producer: Francesco Rinaldi & Figli
Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy
Vintage: 1901
Style: Red wine, Barolo
Pairing: Ideal with rich dishes like braised meats and aged cheeses, enhancing the wine’s complexity and depth.
Producer: Poderi Aldo Conterno | Region: Barolo, Piedmont, Italy | Vintage: 1979 | Style: Red, Nebbiolo | Pairing: Perfectly complements rich dishes like braised meats and truffles, as well as aged cheeses.
Producer: Giuseppe Mascarello; Region: Barolo, Italy; Vintage: 1996; Style: Red, full-bodied Nebbiolo with complex aromas of rose, tar, and dark fruit; Pairing: Perfect with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.
Producer: Domaine des Lambrays
Region: Burgundy, France
Vintage: 2009
Style: Red wine, Grand Cru
Pairing: Ideal with roasted duck or rich mushroom dishes.
Rinaldi Francesco, Barbaresco, 1901: This historic Barbaresco from the renowned Rinaldi family showcases the elegance and complexity of the Nebbiolo grape. With its rich flavors of dark fruit, leather, and spice, it pairs beautifully with truffle risotto or braised meats.
Bricco Bussia, Barolo, 1979: A classic Barolo from the Bricco Bussia vineyard, this vintage offers notes of cherry, tar, and rose petals, reflecting the terroir of the Langhe region. Ideal for pairing with rich dishes like osso buco or aged cheeses.
Monprivato, Barolo, 1996: Produced by Mascarello, this Barolo is celebrated for its depth and complexity, featuring flavors of red
Clos de la Roche, Domaine Ponsot, Burgundy, 2011, Red Wine. This Grand Cru Pinot Noir offers rich complexity with flavors of dark fruit, earth, and spice. Ideal pairing with roasted duck or beef bourguignon.
Capichera VIT, Sardinia, 2018, White Wine. A blend of Vermentino and other indigenous varietals, showcasing bright citrus and herbal notes. Perfectly complements seafood dishes or light pasta with pesto.
Bayard-Montet, Burgundy, 2017, White Wine. A classic Chardonnay with notes of apple, pear, and subtle oak. Pairs beautifully with creamy dishes such as lobster risotto.
Francesco Rinaldi, Barolo, Piedmont,
The menu at Marino Ristorante for Tomato Wednesday showcases a vibrant selection of Italian-inspired dishes, emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients centered around tomatoes. Highlights include a variety of antipasti like bruschetta and carpaccio, seafood options such as grilled octopus and branzino, and classic pasta dishes like spaghetti pomodoro and gnocchi.
Double Gazpacho: Brandywine and Green Zebra. Deliciously pure. The vibrant hues of the Brandywine and Green Zebra tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast, while the refreshing chill of the gazpacho tantalizes the palate. Its silky texture, punctuated by the subtle acidity and herbaceous notes, offers a delightful balance that lingers with each sip, inviting you to savor the essence of summer in every bowl.
That little green is a special basil.
Atomic Stripe Tomato, Hokkaido scallop, verbena tomato water, burrata, basil. Pretty amazing. The vibrant hues of the atomic stripe tomato create a stunning visual contrast against the delicate, translucent Hokkaido scallop, while the verbena tomato water adds a refreshing brightness. Each bite is a harmonious blend of creamy burrata and aromatic basil, offering a delightful interplay of textures and a symphony of sweet, savory, and herbal notes that linger on the palate.
Bruschetta of mixed heirloom rainbow tomatoes. Garlic rubbed grilled Roan Farms bread. Just lovely. My wife loved. The vibrant colors of the heirloom tomatoes create a stunning visual contrast against the rustic bread, while the garlic adds a fragrant warmth that tantalizes the senses. Each bite delivers a delightful interplay of sweetness and acidity, complemented by the satisfying crunch of the perfectly grilled toast.
Pineapple Tomato Carpaccio, wild blue fin tuna tartar, avocado. Almost Mexican in taste—lovely. The dish presents a vibrant palette, with the sweet acidity of the pineapple harmonizing beautifully against the rich, buttery texture of the tuna tartar. Each bite is a refreshing dance of flavors, enhanced by the creamy avocado, inviting you to savor the delicate balance of oceanic and tropical notes.
Pizza Stracciatella. Fresh burrata, basil pesto, cherry heirloom rainbow. Very tomato, crispy crust. The vibrant medley of heirloom tomatoes creates a delightful contrast of sweetness and acidity, while the creamy burrata melts luxuriously into the warm, crisp crust, offering a harmonious blend of textures. The fragrant basil pesto adds a fragrant herbal note, elevating each bite to a refreshing experience that dances on the palate.
Norma Pasta: Artisanal pasta, eggplant, tomato basil. The dish presents a rustic charm, with the pasta elegantly entwined with tender, caramelized eggplant and a vibrant tomato basil sauce that bursts with freshness. Each bite offers a harmonious balance of savory and sweet, while the rich aroma of basil tantalizes the senses, inviting you to savor the comforting textures and radiant colors on the plate.
Maccheroncini, Maine lobster, Black Cherokee, pomodoro basil sauce. The delicate strands of maccheroncini cradle the succulent Maine lobster, while the rich, vibrant pomodoro basil sauce lends a fragrant, herbaceous note that dances on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious blend of sweet and savory, with the earthy undertones of the Black Cherokee tomato adding depth and warmth to this exquisite dish.
Pacchero stuffed with 3hr San Marzano ragu meat and ricotta. Orecchiette San Marzano, spicy Calabrian chili pork sugo. Shifting heavily to the deep-cooked tomato flavor and a good bit of spice. The pacchero, with its robust and tender form, cradles the velvety ragu, while the orecchiette presents a delightful bite, each ear-like shape capturing the fiery, aromatic sugo that dances on the palate. The vibrant colors and rich aromas invite a sensory exploration that is both comforting and invigorating.
Grilled Oregon Albacore, mix heirloom rainbow, Underwood Farms corn. The albacore, perfectly charred, offers a rich, buttery flavor that harmonizes beautifully with the sweetness of the heirloom rainbow vegetables. Each bite is a delightful contrast of textures, with the tender fish yielding to the crisp, vibrant crunch of the corn, while the dish is elevated by its vivid presentation and the earthy aroma of the fresh produce.
Homemade sausage and peppers, Black Cherokee pomodoro. Beef meatballs San Marzano ragu sauce. More deep Southern Italian flavors. The vibrant red of the pomodoro sauce contrasts beautifully with the golden-brown sausage, while the meatballs are enveloped in a rich, aromatic ragu that hints at basil and garlic. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory and slightly sweet notes, with the textures ranging from succulent meat to the tender crunch of sautéed peppers, creating a delightful medley of flavors that evoke the heart of Italian cuisine.
NY Steak, Roma fra diavolo, Jimmy Nardello peppers. This dish presents a stunning interplay of charred, smoky aromas and vibrant colors, with the rich marbling of the steak harmonizing beautifully with the sweet heat of the fra diavolo sauce. Each bite reveals a tender, juicy texture, perfectly complemented by the slight crunch of the roasted Jimmy Nardello peppers, creating a delightful balance of flavor and mouthfeel.
The Sugo. A rich, slow-cooked tomato sauce that envelops the pasta in a warm embrace, showcasing the essence of ripe tomatoes and fragrant herbs. The deep crimson hue glistens invitingly, while the aroma teases the senses with hints of garlic and basil. Each spoonful delivers a harmonious balance of acidity and sweetness, the velvety texture clinging beautifully to the al dente pasta, creating a comforting yet sophisticated dining experience.
Sal in the house!
Salvatore “Sal” Marino grew up in the dining room and kitchen of Marino Ristorante, the Melrose Avenue landmark his father, Ciro, established for Hollywood’s studio crowd in the early 1980s. After bussing tables as a boy, Sal decamped to Italy in his twenties, staging at Michelin-starred temples such as San Domenico in Imola and Aimo e Nadia in Milan, before returning to Los Angeles for tours at Patina and Valentino. In 1997 he opened his own Westside restaurant, Il Grano, where his four-dozen backyard tomato varieties and seafood crudi earned him invitations to cook at the James Beard House and repeated spots on Jonathan Gold’s “Essential” lists. When Il Grano closed, he folded that produce-driven ethos back into the family flagship, taking over day-to-day command of Marino Ristorante while his brother Mario runs the deep, Italy-leaning wine cellar.
Marino’s cooking marries Southern Italian roots with the seasonal rhythms of California and a precision he picked up from watching sushi masters at Tsukiji Market. The menu pivots nightly around whatever he’s harvested from the family garden or bought that morning at the docks—think raw Santa Barbara spot prawns laced with Sicilian olive oil, spaghetti alla chitarra tossed with thirty-second-old tomato passata, or veal cheek agnolotti finished with Meyer-lemon zest. Restraint is the signature: two or three perfect ingredients, minimally manipulated, allowed to taste of themselves. Accolades have followed that clarity—Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence for the cellar, frequent “Best Italian” nods from the L.A. Times and Los Angeles Magazine, and a loyal clientele that spans studio moguls, neighborhood regulars, and visiting chefs on their night off.
Guiding it all is Marino’s conviction that food is first an act of stewardship. He buys whole local fish so every fin and bone can be used, composts kitchen trim back into the tomato beds, and insists on hand-rolling pasta to respect the grain. “If an ingredient is flawless,” he likes to say, “my job is simply not to ruin it.” That philosophy keeps the restaurant both rooted—still unmistakably the warm, famiglia-run room Ciro opened—and unmistakably current, a place where tradition and L.A.’s restless freshness sit comfortably at the same white-table-clothed table.
Sal’s Grilled Cheese with Tomatoes. Incredible. This dish presents a harmonious blend of golden-brown, crisped bread enveloping a luscious, melted cheese that oozes with each bite. The vibrant burst of ripe tomatoes adds a refreshing acidity, balancing the rich, savory notes, while the aroma of toasty bread wafts tantalizingly, inviting you to indulge in its comforting embrace.
This was a really great meal. Not only was it one of the best I’ve had at Marino’s in a long time, but it was just so tomato—in a great way—and I’m not even that much of a tomato person.
