Restaurant: The Square

Location: 6-10 Bruton Street. Mayfair, London, W1J 6PU. +44 (0) 20 7495 7100

Date: July 15, 2013

Cuisine: Modern French/Italian

Rating: Thoroughly Enjoyable

While in London I failed to secure any reservations at the city’s three 3 Michelin star restaurants (sadly, the Fat Duck wait list didn’t pan out), but I did hit up “The Square” which has 2 stars and was a recommendation (and a great one at that) of my wine friend Martin Buchanan who arranged the evening and brought a couple of lovely bottles. I had met Martin earlier this year at a blow out Melisse dinner and this proved to be another great evening — if slightly less damaging to the liver (at Melisse 5 of us drank 9 bottles!).

The square is located on a side street in fashionable (and expensive) Mayfair.

Tonight’s tasting.

And a modified pescatarian version.

We begin with the amuses. Classic french cheese puffs.

Fois gras cone.

A tomato mushroom “toast.”

Squid ink “chips.”

And a non inky version.

2005 Domaine Leflaive Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d’Âne. IWC 90. Light yellow color. Sweet aromas of soft citrus fruits and nutty, vanillin oak. Ripe and harmonious, with sweet fruit flavors of orange and peach. Offers an attractive sugar/acid balance. My only early question mark concerns the wine’s slightly hard edge on the finish, and a hint of alcoholic warmth. But there’s also some minerality from the rocky soil here.

This had a very “oxidized” style, which at the moment was drinking nicely, like a much older wine — 10 or 15 years older! — although I have no idea how it will hold up in the long run.

Tartare of English Rose Veal with Violet Artichokes, Black Radish and Summer Truffle.

Bocconcini Mozzarella with Olive, Capers, Romero Peppers, and White Balsamic.

Sauté of Scottish Langoustine Tails with Parmesan Gnocchi and an Emulsion of Potato and Truffle. Very tasty!

Heirloom Tomatoes with Sheep’s Curd, Olive Oil, and Pea Shoots.

Lasagne of Dorset Crab with a Cappuccino of Shellfish and Champagne Foam.

Warm Salad of Potato with Truffle and Summer Beetroots.

1995 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Blanc. Martin brought this wine. It’s so rare and unusual that it’s not even listed on Cellartracker. It was drinking very nicely, showing the caramel complexity of a mature age-worthy white.

Roast Foe Gras with New Season Cherries and Pistachio Granola.

Hand Rolled Macaroni with Artichoke, New Seasons Girolles and Runner Beans.

Roast Monkfish with Girolles, Tomato, Basil Gnocchetti and Garlic.

Roast Fillet of Sea Bass with Girolles, Tomato, Basil Gnocchetti and Garlic.

2000 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées. Burghound 88. Another gift from Martin. Finesse to burn here with outstanding elegance and purity. Very Chambolle in character with a pronounced minerality and the tannins have an almost chalky quality to them. The length here is excellent and this displays a certain vibrancy if not the same degree of richness as the Beaux Bruns.

Loin of Lamb with White Auergine Puree, Olives, Artichokes and Balsamic.

Croustillant of Girolles with Bay Milk Puree and Fresh Almond.

Tasting of Thymtamarre.

The associated bread.

1989 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese. Another wine from Martin. A lovely sticky. Like apricot nectar.

Brillat-Savarin Cheesecake with English Gooseberries and Elderflower Sorbet.

Apricot Souffle with Camomile Ice Cream.

And the added sauce.

Echoing the amuses are the Petit Fours. These are like super chocolate truffle rice crispy balls.

And a neat little “arrangement” of bon bons!

This was another great meal. The Square isn’t doing anything too radical, but it is delivering really excellent haut cuisine. There is a deft marriage here of both French and Italian techniques, which combined with a use of fresh English ingredients serves up a unique take on modern gastronomic cuisine. Every dish was approachable and well executed without any “failed experiments.” Service was also first rate. The wine list was good but pricey (no surprise for a London 2 star).

For more English dining reviews click here.