Restaurant: Drago Centro [1, 2]
Location: 525 S Flower St, Los Angeles, CA 90071. (213) 228-8998
Date: September 25, 2015
Cuisine: Italian
Rating: Great high end Italian
For the second time this month its off to Drago Centro, this time for an epic Sauvages lunch of 2001 and older Barolo!
Located on busy Flower in DTLA.
We were situated in the “Vault” room, an awesome, huge private room over to the side of the restaurant (past the patio). It featured its own bar and kitchen and a huge table.
It’s worth noting that we had 23 people and 23 wines, so it was impossible to pour around. Therefore, we split the table into 2 sub tables, and each constructed four 3 wine flights based on the wines of those sitting on that side of the table. I matched the table 1 flights with the food, and grouped the table 2 flights all together at the end. I just didn’t know what else to do. It was just an excess of great Baroli.
Our special menu.
To begin with, a couple of us brought some nice Italian whites.
From my cellar: 2013 Giovanni Almondo Roero Arneis Vigne Sparse. 89 points. The 2013 Roero Arneis Vigne Sparse comes across as green and grassy in this vintage, with distinct Sauvignon-like inflections. Lemon peel, grapefruit, lemongrass and flowers are all expressive in the glass, but the overall impression is of an overly vegetal, aggressive wine that is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. The Vigne Sparse is always on the leaner side of Arneis. In 2013, that aspect of its personality is especially prominent.
2013 Luigi Boveri Timorasso Colli Tortonesi Derthona. Nice and acidic.
2012 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis. VM 89. Bright, pale yellow. Aromas of apple and flowers complicated by a musky leesy note (this wine spent just one month on its lees). Sappy, concentrated apple and honeysuckle flavors show noteworthy extract. Finishes with a refreshing bitter edge and lovely length and grip. A very good vintage for this wine. In comparison, noted Bruna Giacosa, the 2011 was less aromatic.
House selection of charcuterie. Various pig. Tasty, of course, although not one of the crazy good charcuterie plates like we had the previous week at Bestia.
1989 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra. VM 97. One of Domenico Clerico’s early masterpieces, 1989 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra opens with a gorgeous, captivating bouquet of soy sauce, smoke, tobacco and cedar. The wine possesses sumptuous richness and beguiling inner perfume in an intensely powerful, mineral-driven style that coasts the palate in stunning style. I am not sure the tannins will fully soften here, but readers lucky enough to own this wine are in for a thrilling ride. This is stunning juice!
agavin: amazing nose! Very nice mature Barolo.
1990 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc. VM 97. The 1990 vintage may have given Scavino a little more to work with as his 1990 Barolo Bric del Fiasc (3-liter) is utterly profound. Rich, dark and sensual, the wine flows onto the palate with marvelous concentration and depth. Layers of menthol, spices, sweet roses and dark fruit swirl around in the glass as this magnificent, regal Barolo struts its stuff. A veritable fountain of youth, this towering Barolo promises to drink spectacularly well for anoter two decades. From a standard bottle the 1990 is approachable, but readers lucky enough to own large formats will want to find a way to wait a few more years.
From my cellar: 1990 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Vigna Cicala. 94 points. Great typicity. Tar and pot purri, some dried roses but also a hint of rotten vegetable in a positive, interesting sense. Good sweetness in the middle and also solid acidity structure. Food wine with a lot of life ahead.
Veal agnolotti dal pin, brown butter, sage. One of those classic Italian pasta sauces with a rich veal feeling.
1997 Giovanni Corino Barolo Vigna Giachini. VM 92. Good full red. Fresh, spicy aromas of cherry, camphor, licorice and dried flowers. Fat, sweet and pliant; a step up in complexity and concentration from the Arborina. Finishes very long, with lush, fine tannins. A very successful, thoroughly ripe ’97 Barolo.
1997 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc. VM 92. The 1997 is a flashy, opulent Bric del Fiasc, with layers of super-ripe dark fruit, chocolate, tar and alcohol that burst onto the palate in a display of awesome concentration and length. It is a big, weighty Barolo that promises to drink well for at least another decade.
1999 Paolo Scavino Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata. VM 96. In 1999 the Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata is surprisingly virile and potent, with fabulous richness and enough pure intensity to continue to drink well for a number of years. The red-toned, floral flavors are remarkably fresh and vibrant. I find a little more finesse in the Carobric and Bric del Fiasc, but the Rocche dell’Annunziata is undoubtedly terrific. Some of the silkiness and pure sensuality typical of this La Morra site is missing, so readers should expect a powerhouse Barolo here.
Garganelli, pork sausage, fennel pollen, parmesan. Nice and al dente, with that rich sausage, the kind that they use on New York sausage pizza.
Making the risotto for the next course.
And some rack of lamb!
2000 Massolino Barolo Riserva dieci X anni Vigna Rionda. VM 95. The 2000 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda Dieci Anni represents the essence of refinement and elegance. Dried roses, tar, licorice, cherries and leather are some of the notes that spin out effortlessly from this sublime, pedigreed Barolo. Today the 2000 Dieci Anni is in an in between state where the earliest signs of tertiary aromatics suggest the wine might be close to being ready to drink, while the foreboding tannins tell another story entirely. This powerful, sensual Rionda needs at least another few years in bottle, but it is already shaping to be a beauty. This is one of the best Riondas Massolino has ever made. The Dieci Anni is a re-release of the 2000 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda from the estate’s library.
2000 Tenuta Pianpolvere Barolo Riserva Pianpolvere Soprano Bussia. VM 93. Pianpolvere Soprano’s 2000 Barolo Bussia Riserva is a terrific wine. It possesses gorgeous inner perfume to its ripe fruit, spices and sweet toasted oak. It is still primary and could use another few years to develop more nuance. While it doesn’t have the structure of the 1999, it is a beautiful, approachable Barolo to enjoy now and over the next decade or so.
2000 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano. VM 90+. The estate’s 2000 Barolo Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano displays a penetrating nose of spices, macerated cherries, and mint. The most complete of the three Barolos, it is at once brooding and closed, but at the same time intense, displaying generous amounts of sweet dark fruit with excellent persistence.
Roasted lamb rack, wild mushroom risotto, shaved truffles. Uh, this didn’t suck! Yummy mild risotto and perfectly cooked rare lamb — plus truffle.
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba. VM 94. The 2001 Barolo Falletto impresses for its layered, silky personality. Sweet roses, tar, licorice and menthol are all woven together in this deceptively medium-bodied Barolo. There is plenty of muscle to back things up. Today the Falletto is quite a bit more delicate than it has been in the past.
2001 Massolino Barolo. VM 89+. The 2001 Barolo opens with aromas of roses, licorice and underbrush. Medium in body, it shows very pretty flavors of bright red cherry fruit and minerals with good persistence and a balsamic note on the finish. It is terrific normale that conveys the terroir of Serralunga.
Chef’s assorted cheeses. Always good with so much wine! Truffle cheese, and a few other medium hard ones.
mini chocolate bon bons. With a cherry center.
After all that Barolo, totally needed the expresso.
The whole gang (minus me taking the picture).
Overall another fabulous lunch. Drago really did a bang up job here. Not only was the food great, but they handled all the wine service in this crazy 2 table 23 person lunch. 4 flights, 3 glasses a flight, with two completely parallel sets of flights! That’s a lot to process.
For more LA dining reviews click here,
The “table 2” wines are below, as you can see they are just as good.
1989 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Vigna Cicala. VM 95+. After tasting the 1989 Bussia earlier this year, I was curious to check in on the Cicala. The Cicala is Aldo Conterno’s most masculine Barolo, as the soils here are extremely poor, and thus yield wines of great structure. The wine is dark ruby in color, with no signs whatsoever of age. The wine is rich and decadent, with generous flavors of dark cherries, spices, tar, and plenty of tannins. The Cicala appears to still very young and in need of further cellaring.
1990 Gaja Barolo Sperss. VM 96. Gaja’s 1990 Barolo Sperss is a sweet, seamless beauty endowed with gorgeous fruit. The wine possesses superb inner perfume and purity even if it doesn’t quite reach the level of Gaja’s most successful wines in this vintage. Still, this is pure 1990 and pure Serralunga.
agavin: fabulous
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba. VM 94+. Medium red. Musky, complex aromas of black raspberry, licorice and lead pencil. Large-scaled but penetrating; tangy raspberry flavors are given great precision by the wine firm spine of acidity. Almost painfully young today. Finishes with explosive, very persistent flavors and firm but thoroughly buffered tannins. A bit dominated by its powerful structure today, but this wine really blossomed with aeration.
1998 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba. VM 95+. Very good medium-deep red. Knockout Barolo nose in all its rustic splendor, showing everything from exotic fruits to smoke, game, tobacco, camphor and white truffle. Urgent, penetrating and supersweet, with nearly candied red fruit flavors saturating the palate. A youthfully aggressive wine that really needs a few years to calm down. Finishes with strong but fine tannins and great ripeness.
1997 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra. VM 93+. Full, saturated red-ruby. Sappy, high-pitched aromas of cherry, nuts and oak spices. Superconcentrated, spicy and sweet, but nearly as backward as a top ’96, with superb extract and powerful underlying structure. Finishes with substantial mouthdusting tannins and a late note of dark chocolate.
1997 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc. VM 92. The 1997 is a flashy, opulent Bric del Fiasc, with layers of super-ripe dark fruit, chocolate, tar and alcohol that burst onto the palate in a display of awesome concentration and length. It is a big, weighty Barolo that promises to drink well for at least another decade.
2000 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino. VM 98. I also very much like the 2000 in this flight. A model of total finesse and delicacy, the 2000 doesn’t have the volume or power of the 1997, but it is perhaps just a bit more finessed. Today, the 2000 is a bit shy. What might it blossom into in a few years’ time? I can’t wait to find out. From magnum, the 2000 Monfortino is pure seduction. Tasted from magnum.
2000 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala. VM 92. The 2000 Barolo Cicala opens with gorgeous notes of crushed berries. It is a relatively small-scaled, lithe Cicala that shows excellent freshness all the way through to the long finish. The wine gains freshness and focus in the glass, with suggestions of menthol and pine that add lift.
2000 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco. VM 91. Full red. Nose dominated by flowers and brown spices. Rich, dense, fat and sweet, with a lovely pliant texture. Complicating note of tobacco. Finishes long and lush, with building, sweet tannins. Very true to the vintage.
2000 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste. VM 96. The 2000 Barolo Brunate/Le Coste, tasted from magnum, is one of the wines of the vintage. Still imposing and massively structured, it is also one of the most imposing 2000s. It possesses marvelous richness and depth, with just enough radiance to make it approachable today. Almost. Readers who can still find magnums of the 2000 should not hesitate. This is a magnificent wine.
agavin: the table #2 people thought this was the WOTD.
2001 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana. VM 90. The 2001 Barolo Pajana offers up freshly cut flowers, espresso, mint, leather, exotic spices and plums. The fruit still shows plenty of intensity and the tannins have softened, yet the Pajana remains a bit of a brute. There is enough fruit for the 2001 to drink well for another decade or so, but I don’t see this ever being a truly elegant Barolo.
2004 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sorì Ginestra. VM 96. Conterno-Fantino’s 2004 Barolo Sorì Ginestra captures the essence of this great vintage. Exotic orange peel, spices, cedar, dark plum and menthol meld together in a big, structured Barolo endowed with considerable depth, power and enough structure to drink well for another decade or perhaps more.
