fusion :: All Things Andy Gavin

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Spring Crustacean

Jan11

Restaurant: Crustacean Beverly Hills [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

Location: 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. (310) 205-8990

Date: April 4, 2023

Cuisine: Vietnamese Fusion

Rating: Awesome as always

Crustacean is one of our regular haunts and one of the few places with the stems, food, and service to handle a serious wine dinner. This was a return to Hedonist form with a mixed dinner of all new traditional Vietnamese food inspired Crustacean creations.

Back in our “usual” private dining room and patio.

Yarom, always posing with owners and the ladies. In the print dress is Elisabeth An.

Our special menu.

Served on this cute wooden toadstool is:

King Crab “Banh Khot”. Royal Kaluga Caviar, dungeness crab, coconut bechemel. A tiny but delicious bite. Great champagne pairing too.

A trio of traditional rolls. Filet Mignon “Bo Nuong” Roll (right). Lemon grass, Ho Fun Rice Noodle. “Cha Gio” Roll (center). Jidori Chicken, crispy rice paper, black mushrooms, jicama, lemon chili. Fresh Langoustine “goi cuon” roll (left). Taito, rau ram, carrots, roasted peanut bean sauce. These were some great spring rolls. Each was just ever so slightly “elevated” from its usual version.

Another trio, this time with sambal, chili oil, and siracha. I was particularly fond of the sambal.

Vietnamese “Banh Xeo” Crepes. Rice batter, organic beech mushrooms, prawns, dice chicken, bean sprouts, pickles. The only thing missing on this wonderful classic Vietmamese dish was the sweet fish sauce.

Escargot “Bun Oc” soup. Escargot, fresh tomatoes, tamarind, ginger chili broth, angel hair rice noodle. I’ve never had this dish before. Both the tender snails and the flavorful snail sausage were awesome. The broth was tangy and a little bit spicy. Delicious!

This was for dipping the snails.

Tasting of An’s Famous Garlic Roasted Dungeness Crab and An’s Famous Garlic Noodles. Roasted garlic and An’s Secret Sauce. The classic never fails to dissapoint. The noodles were “fortuantly” a tiny portion (good given my carb avoidance).

These came smoked.

Lemongrass Cramelized “suon rang” pork spare ribs. Lemongrass, soy, shallot, fish sauce. Very distinct smokey flavor and lots of meat. Yum!

Salt block pork belly for the fried rice.

Rich and flavorful.

XO Garlic Fried Rice. Poached egg, pork belly, XO, Vietnamese Sausage. Awesome rice. Can’t hate on the Vietnamese sausage (which is pretty much like Cantonese sausage).

The icky flight.

Wagyu “Bo Kho”. Snake River Farms Wagyu, su su “Buddha’s Palm,” heirloom carrots, garlic rice. My least favorite dish. It was fine, but mostly beef stew and rice.

Kung Pao Eggplant. Thai Basil, Thai red chili gastrique. Crispy and delicious.

Coconut Tapioca “Che.” Exotic Fruits. A really pleasant mix of the soft and silky textures with the potenent coconut notes offset by the zingy fruit.

I love this flavor — Peppermint Bark Gelato — Base is pure peppermint milk (subbed the sugar with crushed peppermint candies) and it’s laced with house-made double-sided peppermint bark, Valrhona Dark Chocolate and Ivoire White! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — The Peppermint Bark recipe was developed by a famous pastry chef and author, the mum of a Naughty Dog Alum @nancy_baggett — this year I added the two layer thing which is awesome — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #dessertgasm #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #peppermint #bark #Valrhona #chocolate

Hojicha Latte NSA Gelato – Ceremonial Hojicha Roasted Green Tea base with No Sugar Added (Allulose) — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #matcha #Hojicha #GreenTea #Allulose #NSA

We had a few wines.

Overall, our best dinner at Crustacean yet — and that is saying something given how many great ones we’ve had. I really like the slightly elevated traditional Vietnamese. It’s a nice change of pace from the fusion, which is quite good as well. They really executed on all levels tonight. Elisabeth joined us and supervised. Her mother was supposed to do all the cooking, but she got sick and ended up spending hours with the cooks over zoom giving them instructions. Obviously she is a good teacher because everything came out great. Wines were awesome and I like a nice progression like this. The cabernets were — as I suspected — too much. The Colgin was the most drinkable but the 2016 — oh my! Service was flawless.

Discussing the food analytically. Very good, and most dishes varied from good to great. The Vietnamese influence is far more subtle, less heavy handed, then at most newer fusion places like Little Sister / LXSO or the more contemporary small plates style Khong Ten. Definitely more roughly 2000 in formal fine dining style — which I don’t mind at all. In some ways it feels like a millennium event fine dining place with Vietnamese — and to a lesser extent Thai and Chinese — notes. It’s a pretty fancy place, and priced accordingly — but particularly during these last two dinners have really knocked it out of the park.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: BYOG, Crustacean, fusion, Gelato, hedonists, Vietnamese cuisine, Wine

Orsa & Winston

Sep25

Restaurant: Orsa & Winston

Location: FARMERS AND MERCHANTS BANK BUILDING, 122 4th St, Los Angeles, CA 90013. (213) 687-0300

Date: February 16, 2023

Cuisine: Modern American Italian Japanese

Rating: light and very interesting

Orsa & Winston is inspired by Italian and Japanese flavors, connected by the creativity of chef Josef Centeno. They were awarded a Michelin star in 2019 & 2021 and chosen as L.A. Times restaurant of the year in 2020.
Interior is small and intimate.

Open kitchen (of course).

Tasting menu only.

Amuse. Chawanmushi with ice plant. Very much the classic “egg tofu” texture. Slightly bitter flavors and a bit of a black pepper kick.

They don’t allow corkage! Boo! But they did have an interesting wine pairing.

Crudo of Hamachi, fava beans, some kind of citrus. Very pleasant and light.

Mushrooms.

Saffron Scallop with a bit of green. Very classic combination, creamy, and quite nice. Not very big of course.

More paired wines.

Bitter greens salad. Maybe endive. Interesting crunch, a bit of salinity from the salmon roe, and a quite bitter lettuce profile. Interesting pairing with the oddball white Bordeaux.

Wine.

Sphagetti with Tomato Sauce and Truffle. Like a high end Spaghetti Pomodoro. Pretty darn tasty. Pasta had some chew, but seemed overcooked compared to a true Italian al dente.

Seafood Satsuki Rice Porridge (supplement). This was my favorite dish (even if it was a carb cheat). Basically a buttery seafood risotto with uni, abalone, etc. I guess technically it’s also like a congee, but such a heavy butter and cream emulsion made it feel far closer to risotto. Either way it was delicious.

Gift of polenta and cheese. Mild and pleasant although fairly bland. I’m never a huge polenta fan.

Wine.

Hamachi Collar with greens and black truffle. Pretty yummy and an interesting Italian/Japanese fusion.

Honey Cornbread. I really enjoyed this — cheat that it was.

Wine.

Mixed Berry Panna Cotta.

Chocolate Coconut Cookies. Yummy.

Overall, a light and very interesting meal. Unique dishes for the most part, but a slightly complex and bitter tonal profile and the only thing that stood out as out and out DELICIOUS was the seafood porridge. Pretty small tasting menu, however, even with the supplement I was exactly stuffed. Plus there is the annoying no corkage factor.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Dinner, DTLA, fusion, italian, Japanese, Josef Centeno, no corkage, Orsa & Winston, Wine

Food as Art – Corridor 109

Aug24

Restaurant: Corridor 109

Location: 727 N Broadway #207, Los Angeles, CA 90012

Date: January 28, 2023

Cuisine: Fusion

Rating: Delicious, minimalist

Corridor 109 | Test Kitchen is inspired by Chef Brian Baik’s passion for sourcing and experimenting with the world’s finest seafood ingredients. Influenced by experiences at high caliber establishments such as Bouley, Eleven Madison Park, The Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, and Sushi Noz, Chef Brian begins his West Coast journey with an intimate tasting menu of 8-9 courses. Seating is limited to only 8 guests.

Corridor 109 tucked away, almost invisible, on the upper floor of a Chinatown mini-mall.

Tonight’s menu.

The small interior space.

NV Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Extra Brut “Climax” Les Beguines. 93 points.

Spot Prawn & Caviar Tartlet. Ebi miso, vidalia onions, wasabi, citrus. Really lovely caviar tart bite with a fantastic textural and flavor contrast. Very umami.

Jeju Island Fluke with Ensui Uni. Citrus soy gelee, myoga ginger, shiso oil. Essentially a sashimi, the soy gelee served to bind together the very fresh flavors.

2020 Domaine du Côteau de Tormery Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron Côteau des Ducs.

Scallop with Herbal Clam Broth. Herb Oil Extracts. The broth was delicious but subtle, with an intense clam quality enhanced by the oils. Lovely, although a challenging wine pairing.

2017 Prager Grüner Veltliner Stockkultur Smaragd Achleiten. 94 points.

Iwashi Toast. Homemade milk bread, pickled red peppers, aioli. An awesome little “sando”. I love the marinated quality of the macherel, which was perfectly cut, and it paired effortlessly with the light, fluffy bit of milk bread.

Side view.

2020 Egon Müller Riesling QbA Scharzhof.

Nagawaki Red Tile Fish. Anchovy dashi, parae seaweed, Tokyo turnips. The fish itself was light and mild prepared with hot oil in the French manner. The seaweed broth however was very Japanese with that mild sea herb note.

Katsuo with Pesto. Spaghetti, shallots, grated ginger. The pasta was perfectly cooked, very green, and had an almost startling but addictive intense ginger quality nicely offset by the fatty fish.

2006 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon. VM 94+. The 2006 Rosé Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon is powerful, intense and also classically austere in its make up. Crushed flowers, mint, red berries and cranberries are all finely sketched. The 2006 finishes with striking mineral-driven precision, and while it doesn’t have the opulence or exuberance of the 2002, it is still a very pretty and appealing Champagne. The Elisabeth Salmon is 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, with about 8% still Pinot Noir. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. (Drink between 2018-2031)

Dungeness Crab. Crab consomme, chives. Crab and crab guts — who wouldn’t love this? Well, certainly I did.

2015 Y de Yquem. 94 points.

Gorgeous large abalone from Japan.

Abalone Risotto. Sumidaya rice, black truffle, gamtae seaweed. I lovely risotto. Not as rich as an Italian variant (with more butter and cheese) might be, but with great savory/umami notes and nice bitey rice. The abalone itself was tender and full of subtle flavor and chew.

Pixie Mandarin Sorbet. Very intensely mandarin with quite a bit of satisfying bitterness and a silky texture.

Corridor 109 was some very fine and innovative food. It’s possibly a bit subtle for some people’s tastes, as there is a very strong Japanese aesthetic and nothing is over the top, but it was superlatively prepared and quite elegant. Location is “interesting” — but all in all very enjoyable.

This dinner was small, but organized by Liz Lee of Sage Society.

For more Italian dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Corridor 109, DTLA, fusion, Sage Society, Seafood

Kato West Penultimate

Apr04

Restaurant: Kato [1, 2, 3]

Location: 11925 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025. (424) 535-3041

Date: August 31, 2021

Cuisine: Omakase Asian

Rating: Really interesting and different

It’s hard to describe Kato. Located in one of the ubiquitous Santa Monica Blvd mini-malls it serves a sort of modern Asian omakase/kaiseki. It won a Michelin star recently and at the 2021-22 junction moved downtown. Now this last bit I’m bummed about as I loved having it on the westside. But their audience is predominantly young hip Asian couples who mostly live in the SGV. Sigh.

Given what was in the fall of 2021 an imminent move much further, Erick and I went twice to collect the tasty memory data from the late period at this westside location.

Fit in there with the Mexican places, the cheap sushi, the massage joints.

The decor is minimalist but attractive. The crowd is young and predominantly Asian.

The descriptive but cryptic menu.
From my cellar: NV Krug Champagne Brut Rosé Edition 21eme. JG95+. The Krug Brut Rosé “21ème Édition” is from the beautiful base year of 2008, with the oldest reserve wine in the blend going back to 2000. The wine was disgorged in the spring of 2015 and is a blend of fifty-one percent pinot noir, forty-one percent chardonnay and eight percent pinot meunier. Ten percent of the pinot noir in the blend is still red wine from Krug’s own parcels of vines in the village of Aÿ. The blend is a slight departure from many releases of Krug Rosé, as hail in the village of Ste. Ghemme in 2008 dramatically cut back the quality of pinot meunier from this vintage, so that Chef de Caves Eric Lebel opted to use all reserve wines for the pinot meunier portion of the blend. The very complex wine offers up the characteristically refined and gently exotic bouquet that this cuvée is cherished for, wafting from the glass in a blend of cherries, a touch of pomegranate, orange peel, beautiful, savory spice elements, rye bread, a complex base of soil tones , dried rose petals and incipient smokiness. On the palate the wine is full, complex and still quite youthful in terms of structure, with vibrant acids, a lovely core, elegant mousse and a very long, perfectly balanced and seamless finish. This is already beautifully complex, but I would love to revisit it five to ten years down the road and see what the passage of time does to this beautiful constellation of aromas and flavors. (Drink between 2018-2050)

Erick brought: 1976 Dr. Loosen Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel. Amazing! We bought multiple bottles of this at a fantastic Loosen dinner.

NOTE: I’ve used the restaurant’s notes, so they are in written from the chef’s point of view.

The rectangular one was: Tapioca, brown butter, uni. This dish started out with us wanting to do something with milk and tapioca and eventually led to a savory dish. We also try not to have dairy in the majority of the menu so when we do we get to use it, it’s a treat. We think the uni pairs well with the different textures, temperatures and forms of dairy.

The rounder one is: Tuna, cilantro. I’ve been trying to make our cold dishes feel like the cold side dishes you would get whenever you eat at casual Chinese noodle houses. The dish is based on a smashed cucumber salad. It’s an onion croustade with roasted chili jam, cilantro condiment and minced bluefin tuna.

3 cup abalone. The flavors of Thai basil, sweetened soy and sesame oil are so emblematic of Taiwanese cuisine so I can see why 3 cup chicken is so beloved. My mom used to stir fry sea snails or clams in the same sauce. We decided to recreate that by reducing 3 cup sauce into a syrup and marinating California abalone in it. The dish is dotted with an abalone and sesame oil emulsion so there’s extra notes of sesame.

Tomato. Aaron from Girl and Dug Farms has a huge selection of tomatoes right now. They all taste different so we wanted to do a dish that showcases all of them. It’s a salad of all of Aaron’s tomatoes, tomato consommé, semi dried sungold tomatoes and a vinegar gelee.

Caviar, geoduck, koji butter. We source caviar through Astrea (our friends Eve and Reisa), their Kaluga hybrid is one of my favorites that I’ve ever tasted. The only inspiration for this dish is the quality of the caviar and the rest of the ingredients serve to highlight it.

Shrimp Toast. We’ve been serving a bread course for a long time now because we really like the milk bread recipe that we developed. We’re starting to realize that a bread course doesn’t make sense in the course of our menu but we still wanted to use our milk bread. So we decided to use it as the base of a shrimp toast done in the style of honey walnut shrimp to pair with the custard course.

Egg custard. Whenever I was sick as a child my mom would steam egg custard with black vinegar. It’s still one of my favorite dishes to this day. This dish is our egg custard, a sauce of kelp and black vinegar, a few different shellfish, Brentwood corn and Aaron’s negi.

Chinese style steamed fish. Every regional cuisine of China and every home has a version of this dish. The most recognizable would be the Cantonese version where a fish is steamed whole and dressed with soy, ginger and scallion to which scalding oil is poured over the top. Our version has loup de mer and we cook each element separately and assemble it to service. The soy is traditionally unadorned but mixes with the fish jus in the steaming vessel. We take sea bream bones and make a tisane and season it with different rice wines and soy sauces to emulate the traditional technique.

Short rib, pear. We’re working on doing a throwback menu to our favorite dishes from 5 years. This dish isn’t Taiwanese or Chinese but it reminds us of eating in Los Angeles and our first year of opening. It’s a dish of short rib cooked with pear then grilled. We serve it with matsutake and some of the pear cooking liquid.

Rice dishes are traditional finishers in Asia.

Yogurt, melon. Frozen yogurt is hands down my favorite dessert to eat. I’m not a sweets person but I’ll always make room if there’s frozen yogurt promised. Dessert doesn’t play a huge part in a coursed Taiwanese meal but tea and fruits always cap a meal. Weiser farm melons right now are at their peak so we wanted to incorporate that so we made the juice of 3 different melons into a granita and there are also pieces of mush melon as well. We think it tastes like a melona bar, a staff favorite.

Boniato yam tapioca, fresh cheese, sable. Here’s our other longest standing dish, our ode to arguably the most popular thing to ever come out of Taiwan, boba milk tea. We make tapioca balls out of an Asian roasting yam, similar to the sweet potato or taro ones you’d have in Taiwan. We make a fresh cheese and foam it and we shave frozen brown butter sable so it gives the feeling of eating shaved ice. We think that the flavors range from milk tea shops to shaved ice stands.

Overall, a very interesting and different meal. Very light, bright flavors and the whole thing tasted great but left one feeling not in the least “bombed out” which is actually kinda nice. Extremely modern too and straight up ready for instagram!

Service is great, if a bit fast! Like just over an hour! It’s also, for gluttons like Erick and I, not nearly enough food, so despite ordering all the supplements we have always gone for “second dinner.” In this case right outside to Monte Alban (a Oaxacan Mexican place).

Chips and salsa.

Chilaquiles. Crispy corn tortillas pieces in spicy tomato sauce, sprinkled with cheese, onion, sour cream, and green salsa, with your choice of protein.

Tacos Enchilados, mole negro. Three soft tacos rolled with chicken or cheese covered with red or black mole and sprinkled with fresh cheese, onion, and parsley. Served with rice.

Check out more epic Foodie Club meals, here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Foodie Club, fusion, Kato, Krug, Loosen, Second Dinner, Taiwanese Cuisine

Mary’s Birthday at Mama Lion

Nov15

Restaurant: Mama Lion

Location: 601 S Western Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90005. (213) 377-5277

Date: October 12, 2017

Cuisine: Fusion

Rating: Half night club, but great food

Mary’s birthday brings a gang of us to Michael Hung’s Mama Lion for some awesome eats and lots of big wine…

Koreatown’s recent modern dining renaissance has officially reached its second phase, with the brand new Mama Lion. These are big, bold statement pieces for the neighborhood, incorporating Korean flavors and Continental fare into one seriously striking package — and this one’s got master chef Michael Hung behind the helm.

The special menu for tonight.

Mama Lion is as much a bar and supper-club as it is a restaurant — although he food is great.

It was quiet at first then got super crowded later at night.

On the left is Michael Hung, our excellent chef.

Chevy takes his flighting seriously.

2006 Dom Perignon Champagne. VM 97. The 2006 Dom Pérignon is a beautifully balanced, harmonious Dom Pérignon that strikes an incredibly appealing stylistic middle ground. Rich, voluptuous and creamy, the 2006 shows off fabulous intensity in a style that brings together the ripeness of 2002 with the greater sense of verve and overall freshness that is such a signature of the 2004. Bass notes and a feeling of phenolic grip on the finish recall the 2003, as the Pinot Noir is particularly expressive today. After an irregular summer that saw elevated temperatures in July followed by cooler, damp conditions in August, more favorable weather returned in September, pushing maturation ahead and leading to a long, protracted harvest. The 2006 falls into the family of riper, more voluptuous Dom Pérignons, but without veering into the level of opulence seen in vintages such as 2002.

From my cellar: 2011 Veyder-Malberg Riesling Bruck. 91 points. At first very “Veltliener” like, honey, white pepper and lots of herbs on the nose. The herbs stayed over the time of the evening but the honey transformed into more citrus components. On the palate I miss the last tick of acidity, nevertheless very mineral & long.

2009 Martinelli Chardonnay Charles Ranch. 90 points. Nice mouth filling Sonoma chard. Tasty without being too distinctive. No reason to wait, I can’t imagine an up side.

Heirloom tomato and burrata cheese on sourdough toast, herb salad. Very bright flavors.

Truffled white bean hummus, warn flat bread, hrebs and extra virgin olive oil. Hummus bugs my stomach but it was worth it for this various which had a high lemon/acid and herby hit.

Plancha seared gulf shrimp, anchovy butter, french bread croutons. One of my favorite dishes. Shrimp were cooked to perfection. Very much like a gambas pil pil — but on toast.

From my cellar: 1998 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays. VM 92. Good bright red-ruby color. Knockout nose combines cherry, raspberry, redcurrant, underbrush, licorice, flowers and earth. Penetrating and quite fine; offers a three-dimensional texture but is not really showing its underlying fat today. Intriguing note of cinnamon in the mouth. Finishes very long and complex, with dusty tannins and compelling sweetness. This should be superb with eight to ten years of bottle aging.

2011 Maison Ilan Mazoyères-Chambertin. 92 points. Pop and pour. Nice aromatics. Good acidity and balance. This actually exceeded my expectations which were pretty low given the history of the winery.

2005 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence. VM 94. Deep red. Scents of raspberry, cherry, herbs and dried flowers, plus a hint of black olive. Juicy, finely etched red fruit and anise flavors become spicier with air and pick up a note of white pepper. Finishes with outstanding clarity and impressive thrust, echoing the sweet red fruit notes. Paul Feraud emphasized that the objective in making this wine has always been to provide a bottle that’s ready to drink on release.

Crispy avocado samosa, smoked chili ranch dressing. Like southwestern spring rolls.

Seared Foie Gras, rhubarb conserve, grilled brioche, watercress. Fatty greatness!

My photo didn’t turn out so I had to use someone else’s.

2012 Château Pavie Decesse. VM 94. Radiant and sexy in the glass, the 2012 Pavie-Decesse is the most gracious of the three top wines in Gérard Perse’s lineup. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, menthol and licorice are some of the notes that fused together in this beautifully focused, layered wine. Hints of violet and lavender add the closing shades of nuance. Silky tannins give the Pavie-Decesse plenty of early appeal, but there is also more than enough depth for the 2012 to drink well for a number of years. The 2012 is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, from vines that are 50 years old on average.

2005 Château Pontet-Canet. VM 95. Good full ruby-red. Complex, enticing aromas of black raspberry, licorice, minerals, bitter chocolate, lead pencil and pungent cedar; just this side of exotic. Wonderfully silky, sweet and thick, with a powerful minerality framing the currant, graphite and spice flavors. This boasts superb inner-mouth energy and great length, with the full, ripe tannins totally enrobed by the wine’s mid-palate richness. (My sample of the 2006 was old and tired, so I’ll wait until next year to report on the finished wine; this was a star in the early going.)

2006 Château Pontet-Canet. VM 94. Saturated medium ruby. Inky cassis, black raspberry, graphite and pungent minerality on the very ripe nose. Dense, rich and silky, with a brooding inky minerality and an almost liqueur-like dark fruit sweetness leavened by a savory peppery element. This very ripe, deep and concentrated wine boasts wonderful lushness without any undue weight thanks to its sheer energy. Like its neighbor Mouton-Rothschild, Pontet-Canet’s 2006 conveys a powerful impression of soil character. Finishes with serious dusty tannins and superb lingering sweetness. Should be long-lived.

Fresh bucatini pasta, Italian pork sausage, leeks, slow cooked egg. Along with the shrimp one of my favorites. The egg melting into it really made it lovely.

Butter poached ocean trout, fennel, and fingerling potatoes, miso butter sauce. Not bad but one of the weaker dishes. Very very soft.

2007 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova. VM 92. Medium red. Very rich aromas of plum, mocha, dried flowers, underbrush and leather, along with a liqueur-like suggestion of marc de Chateauneuf. Supple, plush and highly concentrated, with superripe fruit flavors slightly leavened by harmonious acidity. A distinctly viscous, fruit-driven wine that could use a bit more class and definition but will please fans of outsized Brunello. Finishes with a bit of youthful aggressiveness.
2015 Ipso Facto Syrah.

Fortunate Son Cabernet Sauvignon. If a wine wants to be written about, it can stick the vintage on the bottle.
2003 Merus Cabernet Sauvignon. VM 92. Deep ruby-red. Aromas of cassis, black cherry, sweet butter and loam. Sweet, lush and sappy, with black cherry and graphite flavors offering very good definition and lift. Offers compelling sweetness and an almost liqueur-like ripeness, but this is more than simply a fruit bomb. Finishes with substantial ripe, broad tannins. “The 2002 version is more muscular and long-aging but the 2003 is flashier,” notes Herold.
2013 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red. VM 94. A real knock-out, the 2013 Proprietary Red is just as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel. A wine of tension, energy and opulence, the 2013 has all the signatures of the vintage in spades. Red cherry jam, smoke, licorice, spices and white pepper are some of the notes that meld into the super-expressive, delineated finish. The 2013 is the first vintage of the Proprietary Red that is more than 50% estate, while the rest of fruit was sourced from Stagecoach and Rancho Chimiles.

Pan roasted duck breast, ragout of braised duck cabbage, young vegetables. Nice duck and LOTS of it.

10 oz. prime 28 day dry-aged New York Steak.

Salad of young brassicas.

Cacio e pepe. Not peppery enough and served this way more like a mac than a proper pasta.

Smothered tater tots, shortrib chili, aged cheddar cheese.

2002 Pride Mountain Vineyards Reserve Claret. VM 94. Good deep ruby. Knockout nose combines currant, cedar, licorice and tobacco. Large-scaled, thick and rich, with compelling density and sweetness. This has superb depth and an intriguing minerality. Finishes with horizontal tannins and superb vinosity and persistence.

Warm humbodlt fog goat cheese. Salty goodness.

Dark chocolate pots de creme.

Sweet cream panna cotta. I don’t know what was in this other than strawberries, but it had a weird flavor (maybe in the “ice”) and was amazing. By weird i mean something like St Germain. Herbal, or floral. Really unique and nice.

Apricot souffle.

After I have poured in the apricot sauce.

Just a few wines.

Rub the Sebby head for good luck.

Overall a total blast with the gang (half pictured) here, great food, and way too much wine.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
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Posted in: Food

Tagged as: birthday, fusion, Korea-town, Mama Lion, Michael Hung

Paiche – Fusion Panache

May09

Restaurant: Paiche

Location: 13488 Maxella Ave, Marina del Rey, CA 90292. 310.893.6100

Date: April 19 & 26, 2013

Cuisine: Japanese Peruvian

Rating: Flavors that Pop!

Paiche is a new joint in the Marina del Rey mall complex (near the Theaters). It’s the third Peruvian brain child of Ricardo Zarate and Stephane Bombet who brought us Picca (review here and here) and Mo-Chica. For whatever reason, LA’s culinary zeitgeist is on fire with Peruvian fusion. And I admit it’s a nice cuisine with it’s bright sock you in the face flavors and savory Japanese ingredients.

The modern, vaguely nautical, and rather loud interior space. Paiche follows all the rules of the post 2008 trendy restaurant: loud, hard spaces, open kitchen, paper menu, busy bar, fancy cocktails, short wine list, no table cloths etc.

The de rigor open kitchen.

The obligatory paper menu. Which, given this is tapas style and you need to order lots of dishes, I like — because I write on it!

Spanish seemed like the thing to bring (given my Euro-centric collection and the food), so I brought a couple modern Iberian classics.

2009 Raul Pérez Rías Baixas Muti. IWC 91. Bright yellow-gold. Deeply pitched aromas of smoky lees, bergamot, apricot pit and salty minerals. Viscous, palate-coating orchard and pit fruit flavors are enlivened by juicy acidity and complemented by honeysuckle and a hint of spun sugar. Wild, complex and singular wine with strong finishing cut and sappy persistence. This is far removed from your classic albarino.

Tuna Tartar | Caviar // Soy Ceviche Dressing // Wonton Chips.

The classic Nobu dish (see here both at Matsuhisa and Takao). This version was punched up with the extremely zesty dressing.

Eggplant Tartar | Grilled eggplant Mousse // Japanese cucumber // wonton chips.

Similar was the eggplant, but it had a nice smokey flavor too it.

Yuquitas | Stuffed yuca beignets // manchego cheese // grated parmesan.

These were great, as who doesn’t love fried cheese?

Eggplant. AJI PANCA AKA MISO SAUCE // SHAVED PARMESAN.

Tamalito Verde. NORTHERN PERUVIAN TAMALES // SHIMENJI MUSHROOMS // SECO SAUCE.

Very tasty sauce.

Paiche Wrap Lettuce | Grilled Amazonian Fish // Anticucho Miso Marinated.

The restaurant is named after the world’s largest fresh water fish (Paiche – pictured below). It’s one hell of a swimmer, and tasty to boot. These tacos were delicious with a nice texture and a smoky bbq vibe.

This is one big fish!

Shrimp Dumplings | Soy Lime Dressing // Spicy Rocoto Infused Oil.

Really nice, bright with a bit of zest and spice.

Uni Shrimp Toast | Sea Urchin // Shrimp Paste Toast // Rocoto Honey Sauce.

A little too much tomato for me, and as a tomato hater, this distracted.

Wagyu Beef | Seared Wagyu // Parmesan Sauce // Aji Amarillo Vinaigrette.

A very interested combination. It’s a taradito, but not with fish, instead with seared wagyu. The parmesan sauce worked, but i’m not sure the vinaigrette was totally successful.

Seabass | Seared seabass // Amazonian Sacha inchi oil // soy dressing // garlic // oba.

A more classic taradito, very bright and pleasant.

Pisco Sour. PORTON PISCO, ORGANIC EGG WHITE, LIME JUICE, LEMON JUICE, EVAPORATE CANE SYRUP, CINNAMON TINCTURE ANGOSTURA BITTERS.

Our three “cerviches.”

Uni Cerviche.

Pretty much straight uni with shiso, but it’s a lovely and classic combination and the uni was VERY fresh Santa Barbara uni and quite lovely.

Albacore Cerviche.

Simple, but good.

Salmon Cerviche.

Nice salmon, but the super zesty sauce pretty much wiped out the fish flavor.

Scallop cerviche.

Yellowtail cerviche.

Chicharron de pescado. CRISPY FISH CHICHARRON // LIME YUZU SAUCE

Grilled Quail Anticucho | pisco basted // ume plum wine dressing.

Really tasty with a strong char and a bit of sweetness.

Rock Shrimp Tempura | Spicy Chancaca Soy Dressing // Rocoto Aioli.

Much like the Nobu classic.

Amaebi | Filo Dough Wrap // Sweet Shrimp // Jalapeño Ponzu Dressing.

This fried shrimp body was really succulent and delicious.

2007 Bodega Margon Pricum Prieto Picudo. Parker 92+. The 2007 Prieto Picudo made from vines ranging in age from 60-100 years. It was fermented in foudre with native yeasts and aged for 13 months in French oak. Dark ruby-colored, it sports a sexy bouquet of Asian spices, wild berries, truffle, and underbrush. Vibrant, complex, and structured on the palate, it is packed with savory red fruits, and displays impeccable balance. It will evolve for several years and drink well for a decade.

Short Ribs | prime short ribs // bbq sauce.

This is from the “short ribs as pastrami” school, but it was good.

Calamari Relleno | Stuffed Baby Squid // Chorizo // Aji Pepian.

Pretty tasty, like sausage (not spicy) covered in chewy squid.

Saltado de Quail | Sauteed Quail // Five Spice // Rosemary Rocoto Dressing.

Nice bbq quail.

Cauliflower.

The server recommended these, but they were a little hard for my taste.

Saltado de Camarones | Sauteed Shrimps // Tomato Onion Stew // Home Made Pasta.

Really very tasty pasta.

Ceviche de Pato | confit duck // ceviche stew // pallares tacu tacu.

Another good dish combining richness and zest.

Arroz con Conchas Negras y Erizo | Blood Clams // Sea Urchin // Risotto.

Pleasant briny flavor punched up by the dynamite sauce.

Chaufa de Langosta | Lobster // Mixed Seafood // Fried Rice.

Very pleasant seafood flavors and that zesty dynamite.

Seco de Paiche | Amazonian Fish Stew // Cilantro Aderezo Sauce // Pallares.

Almost curry like, really very very delicious and exotic tasting.

The refuse.

Churros. Chocolate sauce and Peruvian fruit sauce.

Small, but delicious. Just little donut balls.

Green Tea Coconut Cake.

Not very coconutty, but very delicious for sure.

Chicha Raspadilla.

A kind of extremely flavorful (and sweet) raspberry ice. Except it might not be raspberry, and might be some South American fruit. Either way, I really liked it.

Overall, Paiche is not only delicious but very fun. I really enjoy getting to taste so many things in one meal and it’s full of very bright punchy flavors. Everything is extremely on point and well executed. While some dishes were better than others, there wasn’t a one that fell short of what it was trying to be. It’s new and crowded, and for good reason!

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