Location: 900 Wilshire Blvd Suite 212, Los Angeles, CA 90017. (213) 296-8783
Date: September 13, 2024
Cuisine: Japanese
Chef: Shin Thompson
Rating: I don’t really like Buffets
Niku X made its debut in January 2023, high above the bustle of Downtown Los Angeles on the ninth floor of the Wilshire Grand Center. The project is the first Los Angeles venture from Orange County–based restaurateur Dario Liu and Michelin-recognized chef Shin Thompson, operating under Liu’s Kei Concepts hospitality group. Their shared aim is to reimagine traditional Japanese yakiniku through a cosmopolitan, Californian lens: pristine A5 wagyu and heritage-breed American beef are paired with farmers-market produce, French technique, and a dash of theatrical tableside cooking. The restaurant’s very name—“niku” means “meat” in Japanese, the “X” symbolizing collaboration—signals the crossroads of cultures that defines its culinary philosophy.
Design amplifies the drama. Local firm Tag Front wrapped the 180-seat room in dark walnut screens, Nero Marquina marble, and glinting brass ventilation hoods, all oriented toward panoramic windows that frame the downtown skyline. Each table is equipped with a smokeless grill fueled by white-hot binchōtan, encouraging guests to sear their own ribbons of wagyu or seasonal vegetables lacquered in black-garlic tare. A $245, 14-course omakase might open with Hokkaido uni toast and foie-gras chawanmushi, zigzag through wagyu tartare studded with Kaluga caviar, and climax in Thompson’s signature sukiyaki rice bowl shaved with truffle—an experience that feels equal parts fine dining and interactive supper club.
In a neighborhood long dominated by classic steakhouses and casual taquerías, Niku X has quickly positioned itself as downtown’s luxury shrine to beef. Early acclaim from critics and a celebrity-studded clientele has helped revive the financial district’s after-dark energy, placing the restaurant alongside spots like Bestia and Bavel in conversations about DTLA’s culinary renaissance. By marrying uncompromising ingredient sourcing with a participatory grill-at-the-table format, Niku X embodies the city’s current food ethos: globally informed, ingredient-obsessed, and unabashedly show-stopping.
But evidently this wasn’t working out perfectly, because in 2024 they pivoted hard to an All You Can Eat Buffet concept. More or less their same food, but with less staff and even less artistry. My first visit, in it’s previous and now defunct form can be found here.
The interior of this contemporary yakiniku restaurant exudes a harmonious blend of modern minimalism and traditional Japanese aesthetics — combined with a general Chinese “frugality.”
The Chubby chain’s “flagship” has failed at being a full-service Japanese steakhouse and so now converted to a $99 “high-end” buffet.
No one touched the salad section. Kinda weird, too.
Various ok raw fish snacks, constantly out of stock (and constantly refilled).
Some random carbs. The tempura actually wasn’t too bad.
The A5 was pretty serious. There were supposed to be limits, but they weren’t enforced. Very unseasoned, however. The marbling danced across the surface, glistening with a rich, buttery sheen that promised a decadent experience. As I savored each tender bite, the deep umami notes mingled with a subtle sweetness, enveloping my palate in a luxurious embrace that lingered long after the last morsel was gone.
Frozen (and thawed) seafood. The shrimp were okay.
The lobsters and crab legs, although frozen, were certainly plentiful. Sauces were okay here. Their drawn butter sucked (it was cheap, flavorless butter). The vibrant reds and deep blues of the seafood create a visual feast, while the texture of the tender meat contrasts with the slight chill of the ice. Despite the lackluster butter, the natural brininess of the ocean still lingers on the palate, offering a glimpse of the coastal flavors that could have been.
Desserts were kinda pathetic.
The 2002 Meursault-Perrières 1er Cru from Robert Ampeau & Fils is a stunning representation of Burgundy’s elegance. Hailing from the celebrated Meursault region, this white Burgundy showcases a rich tapestry of flavors, with notes of ripe pear, toasted hazelnuts, and a whisper of minerality. Its creamy texture and vibrant acidity make it an exquisite companion for dishes like lobster or creamy risotto, enhancing the dining experience with its luxurious mouthfeel.
My first plate.
A5 Zabuton, shio kombu rice, jidori egg yolk, sukiyaki sauce. You only get one of these per person. Sad as it was one of the best things. Probably a labor thing. The A5 Zabuton, marbled to perfection, offers a rich umami that melts luxuriously on the palate, while the shio kombu rice provides a subtle brininess that enhances the dish’s depth. The silky jidori egg yolk adds a luscious creaminess, and the sweet-savory sukiyaki sauce rounds out the experience, creating a harmonious symphony of flavors that linger delightfully in the mouth.
Some meat on the grill. The grills were really hot and very easy to burn these high-fat meats.
Just one of endless piles of meat we grabbed. There was certainly a lot of meat.
Sukiyaki: We did get 2 sukiyaki pots. I enjoyed getting A5 from the regular buffet and just cooking it in here — actually gave it some flavor. The rich marbling of the A5 beef rendered beautifully, infusing the broth with a luscious umami depth, while the vibrant vegetables added a refreshing crunch and a pop of color to the dish. Each bite was a harmonious blend of savory and sweet, capturing the essence of this traditional Japanese delicacy.
Meat for the sukiyaki.
Morning grilling.
Lamb chops. Not sure why these were fried. The golden-brown crust adds a delightful crunch, contrasting beautifully with the tender, juicy meat beneath. Each bite releases a savory aroma, enriched by the subtle notes of rosemary and garlic, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate.
Oxtail potstickers. Not too bad. The delicate wrappers are pan-fried to a perfect golden crisp, while the rich, savory filling of tender oxtail offers a luxurious umami experience with every bite. The aroma wafts enticingly, hinting at the depth of flavor within, while the contrasting textures of the crispy exterior and succulent filling create a delightful harmony on the palate.
Arugula and Blood Orange Gelatos – A refreshing and vibrant combination that dances on the palate. The earthy, slightly peppery notes of arugula harmonize beautifully with the bright, citrusy sweetness of blood orange, creating a delightful contrast. The creamy texture of the gelato envelops the taste buds, while the vivid colors of the dish evoke the feeling of a sun-drenched orchard, enticing both the eye and the senses. Each spoonful offers a balance of invigorating flavors, making it a truly unique and memorable experience.
Not the best wines we’ve ever brought. The chaotic buffet eating style didn’t lend itself well to any kind of savoring.
The crew. Overall, this was a fun night, and certainly it’s a great deal. But there is no refinement, and it’s very chaotic and haphazard. They don’t use the best quality of everything (although the A5 is very good), and there is no artistry at all. It’s pretty much self-season and sauce — and their sauce game is really poor. So not for me. I prefer a decent (super spicy) hot pot, actually, as there is more flavor.
A little too much wine.
