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Archive for Szechuan

This Location Again?

May16

Restaurant: Lady Yan’s

Location: 203 W Valley Blvd, Alhambra, CA 91801. (626) 872-6677

Date: October 2, 2022

Cuisine: (Mostly) Szechuan Chinese

Rating: Medium level Szechuan

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I’ve eaten at this location as at least 5 restaurants.

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It’s the familiar spot that once housed Sham Tsem (Alahambra), New Bay, and Happy Table, and GV Yummy. That’s a lot of restaurant churn — probably the most different restaurants I’ve eaten at in a single location in the SGV. The current name seems to be Lady Yan’s, but the old signs are still up there. New Qing Dao seemed to have been the same as GV Yummy. Not totally sure. It was very confusing.
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The menu. This time around I think it’s Szechuan, more or less.
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Cucumber Salad. The typical smashed cucumber dish, but an excellent version being smashed, very garlic forward, and well sauced.
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Jelly in spicy savory sauce. The Chengdu street mung bean jelly. Not a bad version at all. I would have preferred a slight extra bit of tanginess in the sauce, but it was good.

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Sliced beef and ox tongue in chili sauce. Nice version of this dish with the appropriate cilatro and peanut vibe. Regular meat and what is probably tripe or lung. Not as good as at GuYi, but very good.

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Spicy wonton “soup.” Nice, although as usual for this dish the wonton’s seemed a bit under-seasoned (maybe just overwhelmed by the chili) and the “soup” is slightly watery.

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Our one claw 4lb live lobster.

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Lobster with ginger scallion. This was by accident as it was supposed to by Tyhoon style. I think the chef just didn’t want to. The lobster meat itself was fine but the prep was meh. Heavy. One of the worst Chinese lobsters I’ve had in a while.

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Live fish kung fu style. Very nice fish with plenty of meat, chilis, veggies, tofu, potato etc. Overall lovely.

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Tea Smoked Duck. Excellent pastrami duck. Very juice and delicious.

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Sichuan spicy chicken nuggets. Very nice salty/numbing version of this iconic dish. Quite enjoyable.

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Double cooked pork belly. Twice cooked pork. Awesome version with a really nice smoke and black bean flavor.

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Sichuan signature mixed meats in chili sauce. Pretty much the same chili “broth” as the fish etc. Included all sorts of weird parts. The spam and liver/blood type stuff was good. There was also the chewy tripe.

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BBQ Lamb Ribs. Served piping hot. Very fatty and full of sizzling flavor. Nice. The sauces didn’t totally work.

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Eggplant with spicy garlic sauce. A 7/10 version of this dish. Pretty nice.

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Green beans with garlic. Fine but nothing special.

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Shredded cabbage. This had the obligatory pork belly and was generally fairly delicious.
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Dan dan mein. Pretty typical Chengdu version. No peanut or sesame but a fairly addictive flavor all the same.

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Seasoned peanuts. Nice, although not like the crack peanuts at Haige Star.

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MaPo Tofu. Surprisingly delicious. Solid 8/10 version of this dish.

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Chengdu style fried rice. Not exactly sure what was in here (other than the obvious peas) but it was very tasty.

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Free totally weird Chinese dessert. Pretty terrible.

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Citron au Courant Sorbetto – Fresh squeezed Lemons blended with French Currants (Cassis) — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato  #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #sorbetto #lemon #cassis #currents #lemonade #citron

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Overall, this place was solid, but slightly “uninspired” SGV Chinese. Now for outside the SGV it would be excellent, as it’s way better than somewhere like Szechuan Place. Lady Yan’s has a wide range of dishes and they do “pretty well” with most of them, very good with a few. The service was nice and MUCH better than at Happy Table or GV Yummy. The build out was identical. It’s fairly low rent and not super crowded. The space must be cursed. There are better Szechuan places, several, but I’d go back to Lady Yans happily enough. And they do have some lingering dishes from other regions (like the BBQ lamb ribs).

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.
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Related posts:

  1. Hop Woo is Hop New
  2. Hunan Mao
  3. NC Peking Duck – Double Duck part 2
  4. Cui Hua Lou – Szechuan Shed
  5. Chengdu Impression
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Chinese cuisine, fish, Gelato, offal, SGV, spicy, Szechuan, Szechuan Chinese

Crawling with an Old Friend

Feb27

The SGV (or San Gabriel Valley) of Los Angeles is not only a Chinese Food mecca (best in America) but lends itself to the peculiar but extremely fun tradition of the “food crawl” or as we sometimes call it the “SGV Parlay.” This involves heading out there and visiting multiple locations in the same day. Everything is so close together and the density is very high.

My oldest friend, Brent, and I have been eating Chinese food together for about 40 years so on this particular Sunday night (January 27, 2019) when he was in town we went out at about 4pm for the crawl.
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First stop the Hunan Chili King and late Lucky Noodle King mini mall. This is a classic old school SGV mall, probably from the 70s.
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Here’s HCK, the best Hunan joint I’ve been to in the state.
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They were decorated for Chinese New Year.
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And here’s Brent.
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Hunan style cold cucumber salad with marinated cucumber, Cilantro, and chilies (everything has chilies). This was really tasty, and one of the least spicy dishes. The marinate lent it a slight cool quality. Very salty though.
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Snails with preserved vegetables. This dish was amazing! Sure it’s an “advanced” dish, and incredibly spicy. Hottest dish we had that night by far. Super deep potent heap. The combo of the chewy snails and the unusual pickled green beans (with their crunch) was stunning.
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This might have been our most expensive stop too. Lol.

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Next over to King Kho Bo for some dried snacks like dried seasoned mushrooms and whacky New Year’s coconut strips.
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Then into this weird low rent mall. Like a cheap mall in China as there are all sorts of “stores” tucked away inside this vast drop ceiling hall. Pretty ugly! And classic SGV charm (actually is fairly charming).
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Speaking of charm, this guy in the parking lot drives a manga rice rocket!
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Next we moved over to another (newer) minimall on Valley. I’ve eaten here at Mian, Mei Long Village, J &J, and Tasty Dining! This is in the heart of Alahambra and very dense.

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Mian, where we decided to get some Szechuan on, gets a serious line. About 30 min at 7pm on Sunday for 2!
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This place is much newer (2 years) and popular with the young Chinese couples on cel phones — wait, that’s all young Chinese (and other) couples.
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Weird cold tea.
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Slightly fermented spicy cabbage adorn the table — like Szechuan kimchee.
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The awesome cold smoked plum juice — so good (too much sugar when you guzzle it though).
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Egg custard with ground pork. One of those delicate fluffy egg custards covered in savory ground pork. Yum! I really enjoy the texture (and taste) of this kind of custard and with the pork was fabulous.
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Beef in chili sauce. Quite spicy, dry, and nice.
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Szechuan Cold Noodles.
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You mix up the above cold noodles and eat. These were superlative. Nice noodle texture, good weight, and this scrumptious tangy chili sauce. Loved them. I adore when the acid balance is right and these really had it down. A bit of nuttiness, but not nearly as nutty or heavy as a dan dan — different, but great.
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Then we went across the mini mall to the Foot Soak for a 1 hour Foot Massage ($20!).
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This particular FM “spa” is one of my favorites because the guys on staff are strong and do a good job. There is NO GLAMOUR here. In fact, it has the oddest (not for the SGV but to the uninitiated) ambiance. The chairs are packed together almost touching and period Chinese dramas (in Chinese, of course) play on the TV. Plus, quite a number of people just hang out or sleep. The massage is good though and the price right ($20 is for a full 60 min).
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Now on to our third minimall, well actually welcome to the Maxi-Mall. The California Mini-Mall’s GIANT SGV cousin.

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You could spend all day in this mall, there are so many restaurants, coffee shops, bakeries, and massage places. But since we’d done two spicy spots, we figured we’d finish up with some awesome carbs. Juicy Dumpling is upstairs.
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They have a glassed in dumpling workshop!
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Brent pounds the hard stuff — tea!
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XLB (xao lao bao) “sweet”. Also known as Juicy Pork Dumpling. Really nice version of the classic. Soft skin. Juicy. Good filling. Maybe not as good as a Din Tai Fun, but great still. They have two types here — savory and sweet. We ordered the sweet because it’s more unusual. I kinda like it, although maybe not as much as the savory.
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Pork and Shrimp Dumpling. Great version of the pork and shrimp, with delicate but pronounced flavors. Like the savory pork only version but with a shrimp inside!
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Giant Crabmeat Juicy Dumpling. You eat this with a straw! People said this was a gimmick, but the slurry of crab and pork inside this thing was to die for. And after you burn your tongue slurping it out you can cut it up and eat the shell like pasta.
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Here with the straw — so good, just watch you don’t burn your tongue.

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As our final (7th!) stop we wanted some boba tea. There were options to choose from, like Boba Ave but we went instead to:
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Whacky name.
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Typical young clientele.
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Slick modern (industrial) decor.
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They double as internet cafe and offer unusual savory treats. Brent joked that “real men” would polish off the evening with an egg and prosciutto waffle — couldn’t manage it.
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Instead just got a milk boba tea (small for me).

Overall, a total blast of a night. It’s really hard to convey how fun these crawls are — which is the purpose of this post. It feels kinda like teleporting to a section of a some slightly (American) Chinese city for an evening. Everything is so close together and if you like Chinese food the density of places is off the chart. We walked by a good 15-20 other places that looked delicious, some of which I have been to, many not.

This whole adventure was probably about $120 for the both of us too, including the Foot Massage and tip. Food was probably $80. With 4 people it would be even cheaper (each) and one could try more dishes. Hard to crawl with more than about 4-6.

Related posts:

  1. Day of the Dumplings
  2. For the Bun of It
  3. J&J – Crab XLB
  4. Westwood Chinese – Northern Cafe
  5. Noodling About – Mian
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Chinese cuisine, crawl, dumplings, Hunan, parlay, SGV, Shanghai Cuisine, Sichuan, Szechuan, XLB

Hop Woo is Hop New

Jul11

Restaurant: Hop Woo

Location: 11110 W Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064. (310) 575-3668

Date: May 30, June 3 & July 25, 2018 and January 6, 2022

Cuisine: American and Szechuan Chinese

Rating: Surprisingly excellent Szechuan!

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Incredible as it sounds, just a few days after hitting up new Brentwood Szechuan GuYi Erick and I explore another new westside Szechuan. Plus, this is a composite posts with returns on my own and a Hedonist visit.
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This time disguised as venerable American Chinese Hop Woo, which has been serving a big menu of Cantonese inspired classics for years — but it turns out they have a new Szechuan chef and a secret Szechuan menu!

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The space is vintage LA Chinese.


At night, it’s packed with us Hedonists taking up 3 tables!
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Here is the special Szechuan menu. You have to ask for it. Some of the more challenging items they didn’t even bother to translate!
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The big regular menu has a few gems too, but everything here from my first two visits is from the Szechuan menu.
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Cold Szechuan Noodles (June 2018). Not even on the Szechuan menu, but they can make them. Basically nice wheat noodles with a tangy/spicy Szechuan chili oil sauce.
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You mix them up and they are quite addictive. But the third time I had them (7/25/18) they were different, heavier, not as much chili, and not nearly as good.
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Toothpick lamb (June & July 2018). The classic cumin rubbed lamb nibblettes. Quite nice.
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Griddle cooked Bullfrog (June 2018). Very nice sauce and flavor. Mind the little kermit bones.
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Griddle cooked lamb (June 2018). Somewhere between a griddle and a cumin lamb.
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Garlic Shredded Pork (June 2018). Big dish, full of flavor, and nice texture.
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MaPo Tofu (June & July 2018). Really a 9 or 10 out of 10 version of this favorite of mine. Tons of mala (numbing Szechuan peppercorn), you can see it dusted on top. Eaten over rice this is just so good. I have had this every-time I have been.
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Hop Woo Signature Fresh Rock Fish with Hot and Spicy Flavor (June & July 2018). A very nice white fish smothered in delicious chilies (and chili oil). Some good vegetables like lotus leaf are hiding in there too. Could use more veggies though.

Slightly spicy fried calamari (7/25/18). Not bad. Very fried.

Cold chicken in chili oil (7/25/18). Delicious dish of boneless white meat (and skin) with a tangy spicy Szechuan chili oil.

We liked the sauce so much we ordered some Hainan chicken (boiled chicken, ordered 7/25/18) to dump into the extra sauce. Tasted the same but had bones.

It came with this bagna caulda (aka garlic oil).

Spicy lobster (7/25/18). Salty and full of flavor. Excellent lobster actually, if perhaps very slightly over done.

Garlic greens (7/25/18). Typical greens and garlic.

Shrimp with chilies (7/25/18). This is normally chicken with chilies, but we got it with shrimp. Basically salt and pepper shrimp (you eat them whole) with dry aromatic chiles. Pretty good.

Cauliflower with bacon (7/25/18). Awesome dish. Nice crunch to the vegetables and made 10x better with the soft pancetta like ham/bacon.

Panda Express Fried Sesame Pork Balls (7/25/18). Someone wanted a “white guy dish” and this fit the bill perfectly. Tasty enough, but REALLY fried.

Fish filets with green peppers (7/25/18). A savory mix of regular green chilies (Jalepenos or Serranos) and Szechuan peppercorns. Nice flavor and burn and numb.

Braised eggplant (7/25/18). This might be their take on “fish flavor eggplant.” Hard to tell, but it was tender and had lots of garlic. Not that spicy.

Below is a return post pandemic 1/6/22 meal:

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Cold chicken with chili sauce (1/6/22). Great sauce. Chciken itself was a little big on the tendon factor.
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Garlic cucumbers (1/6/22). Pretty good.
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Jellyfish (1/6/22). A bit chewy.
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Honey Walnut Shrimp (1/6/22). Very tasty. Not the best ever version of this dish, but quite good.
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Sichuan Garlic Scallops (1/6/22). A bit sweet and cloying.
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Clams with garlic and scallions (1/6/22). Not bad, but not amazing either. Not so much clam meat.
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Whole fish with Rattan Pepper (1/6/22). Awesome broth. Fish was very tender. Lots of numbing. Bones, yes, but delicious. DOTN.
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“Peking Duck” (1/6/22). Not bad, but huge chunks of Southern Chinese style roast duck.
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Thin sweet hoisin.
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Salt and Pepper Pork Chops (1/6/22). Very salty, but quite tasty.
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Mooshu Pork (1/6/22). Extremely mushy and not very good.

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Mexican Tortillas instead of real spring pancakes. Not kidding, just el patio.

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Orange Beef (1/6/22). Super sweet and fried. Kinda delicious in a dessert sort of wait.
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Cumin lamb (1/6/22). Pretty decent.

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Fried Rice Cake with Brown Sugar (June 2018). The owner gave these to us on the house. Very interesting Chinese dessert, all about the texture as usual. Chewy inside and dusty sweet on the outside.

Mandorla Tostata Stroopwafel Gelato (Toasted Almond) made by me for Sweet Milk Gelato (7/25/18) — toasted Sicilian almonds and Dutch Stroopwafel, because, why not?
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Classic oranges and Fortune Cookies.

Overall, I was very impressed with the Szechuan items. It’s not a huge menu of them, and they aren’t quite Szechuan Impression or anything, but a few of these dishes, like the MaPo Tofu and the fish were absolutely first rate. Nice balance of tangy, hot, and numbing. It’s great to have a few real Szechuan choices on the westside!

Given my repeat and must larger visit with a lot of dishes I actually think the Szechuan here is on par with a second tier SGV Szechuan like Lucky Noodle King or maybe Spicy City. Some dishes better, some worse. It’s not the BEST Szechuan in the city by any means, but it’s the real deal and surprisingly very good for Westside. The even have really legit dishes like MaPo tofu with pig brains!

On our 1/6/22 visit a certain spice hater forced us to order about 3/4 from the regular menu. It was pretty consistent that almost everything from the regular (Chinese American) menu was very mediocre while stuff from the Szechuan menu was pretty good.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Random wines, only a few of the ones we brought:









Related posts:

  1. GuYi — Szechuan in Brentwood?
  2. Cui Hua Lou – Szechuan Shed
  3. Hunan Mao
  4. Huolala Hot
  5. Hip Hot
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Chinese cuisine, Chinese Food, Gelato, Hop Woo, mapo tofu, Sichuan, spicy, Szechuan, Szechuan Chinese

Cui Hua Lou – Authentic Spice

Jun03

Restaurant: Cui Hua Lou [1, 2, 3]

Location: 920 E Garvey Ave. Monterey Park, CA 91755. 626-288-2218

Date: May 28, 2016

Cuisine: Szechuan Chinese

Rating: Awesome!

ANY CHARACTER HERE

Chinese food is incredible regional, and we are blessed in SoCal with a lot of very specific restaurants (mostly in the San Gabriel Valley). My Hedonist group has returned to this little known spicy Szechuan in the corner of an undiscovered Monterey Park strip mall. We love Szechuan for its spicy/smoky flavors. This is a cuisine that packs a real punch and is one of my favorites in China and CHL is seriously “local.”


The storefront, as usual, isn’t much to look at.


A menu with fairly literal translations.


And the usual minimalist decor.

But we weren’t even in the restaurant proper, but across the parking lot in “the room.” When we arrived some staff or friends were eating (and drinking A LOT of beer). They cleared out as soon as we walked in.

Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson. Light and fresh.

Salted peanuts.
 Cucumber with Jelly Fish. Not bad for jellyfish. The cucumber had a nice marinated crunch.

From my cellar: 2011 Veyder-Malberg Grüner Veltliner Weitenberg. 92 points. Excellent. Opened about 8 hours prior to drinking. Pale-mid straw in colour with a nose of green apples and stones. Bone dry and predominantly mineral in the mouth with green sourish apple, vegetal and wet stone overtones. Medium acidity with a distinct tartness which is very refreshing and long in the aftertaste. This is still a very young Veltliner which is several years away from reaching its peak. When it does I estimate that it will deserve a higher score, maybe substantially higher

Beef tendon with chilies. Nice chili flavor with very gelatinous tendon slabs.

Bean noodles with cucumber and mustard sauce. Nice bright mustard flavor.

2014 Weingut Josef Leitz Riesling.

Cumin garlic skewers. Intense and delicious.

Mushroom and “Chinese Hot Dot” skewers. The hot dogs were awesome, tender and a little sweet. The mushrooms were a little chewy.

Lamb and chicken wing skewers. Tasty.

From my cellar: 2006 Mas Martinet Priorat Clos Martinet. VM 92+. Saturated ruby. Pungent aromas of cherry, black raspberry, sassafras, licorice and vanilla. Pliant cherry and dark berry flavors are braced by a zesty mineral quality and framed by silky tannins. Becomes smokier and deeper with air, picking up black tea and herbal qualities on the finish. The finish is sweet but a bit clenched, with fine-grained tannins lending grip. This seems to be holding back today but I like its balance and concentration.

Stewed Lamb in Casserole. This is one of the house special dishes. It comes like this and then heats to a boiling (and spicy) temp. Below the mutton (the meat is incredibly tender, although on the bone) is a seething pit of chili sauce, cabbage, soft tofu, and glass noodles. The sauce has an incredible flavor with a good bit of numbing Szechuan peppercorn. It’s incredibly delicious and unique to Szechuan cooking.

2007 Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Riesling Spätlese. JG 92. honey lemon, grapfruits with hint of perfume floral and Mosel like mineral tones. Juicy intense palate with rich lemony, citrus notes and hint of sweet yellow fruits that firmly supported by the mineral backbone with bright acidity that flow on to the very clean, grippy finish with ripe acidity to go along.

Pan Seared Chili Pepper. Maybe Jalapeño. Delicious with a good middling heat.

Pork belly with garlic. Like super fatty bacon in garlic sauce.

From my cellar: Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel Auction. 93 points. Great stuff.

Kung Pao Shrimp. As good a version of the classic as you can find. Not that spicy.

Potato with Chili. Looks and tastes a bit like al dente noodles. A nice subtle flavor too.

2012 Turley Zinfandel Cobb. VM 91. One of the more immediate, fleshy wines in this extensive lineup, the 2012 Zinfandel Cobb Vineyard is an excellent choice for drinking over the next handful of years. Suave, silky and juicy on the palate, the 2012 is built on a core of open, resonant fruit. Sweet spices notes add nuance in a distinctly supple Zinfandel with tons of near-term appeal.
 Hot braised eggplant with garlic sauce. Awesome garlicky flavor, with some significant heat (of both sorts).

2001 Marquis Philips Shiraz Integrity. 94 points. Notes of mint/eucalyptus, leather, plum and dark fruit with a very subtle funky/bretty undertone that is rather enjoyable. Medium- to full-bodied with nicely integrated tannins and flavors of spice, vanilla, blackberry liqueur, and herbs. Hint of leather coming in on the finish. The most complex and ready of the four- solidly in its window and probably won’t improve in my opinion. Should hold at this level for a couple of years, but I see no reason to wait.

Sweet and sour spareribs. Little sweet bits of porky yum.

Boiled fish in chili sauce. A great version of this dish. The fish was very tender and the broth was delicious.

Dan Dan Noodles.

Wilson mixing it up. One of the biggest challenge is getting only part of the noodles and an even distribution of the chopped meat at the bottom. Clearly, when Marco Polo brought noodles back to Italy this became the seed for Bolognese sauce, as aside from this being quite spicy, there is a definite similarity. This particular version wasn’t the best I’ve ever had, and doesn’t have the nutty sesame quality the dish sometimes does, but it was certainly enjoyable.

Tomato and egg. Classic Chinese breakfast.

Cabbage with preserved shrimp. A nice mild cabbage with just a hint of salty dried shrimp.

Fried corn. Slightly sweet and could have almost passed for a dessert (certainly in Chinese terms). It blended great on the plate with other items like the above tofu, adding a bit of crunch, salt, and sweetness.

The “private room” has a karaoke machine.
 And even more terrifying, a meat band saw.
 Yeah, this is the kind of thing killers might use to dispose of the body!

In conclusion, Cui Hua Lou, while apparently totally undiscovered, offers up some fabulous traditional Szechuan fare. Yarom thinks this is the best Szechuan in the SGV. I’m not sure I’d go that far, but it’s certainly one of my favorites. They don’t use MSG. The flavors are great. It has a slightly different mix of dishes than some. But I like a lot of the top Szechuan places, and they are each a bit different.

The service is really great, particularly as Chinese restaurants go. Our hostess Elaine really took care of us, spacing out the dishes, bringing us whatever we needed.

We went crazy overboard and ordered up about 50% more food than we needed, still this feast, including tax and tip, only set us back $25 a person! If you like spicy, you should try this place. It’s not big, but it was still busy at 10pm!

For more LA Chinese reviews click here.

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

We went close by to Salju for some awesome snow. In this case pineapple snow, passionfruit, strawberry, almond jelly and boba.

Coconut snow with blueberry, mango, and condensed milk.
 And more coconut snow with mochi, gumi bears, and rice balls!

Related posts:

  1. Spice Up Your Life Szechuan Style
  2. Posh Spice
  3. Hills of Gold and Spice
  4. Serious Szechuan
  5. Huolala Hot
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Cui Hua Lou, hedonists, Salju, Sichuan, Szechuan

Huolala Hot

Dec18

Restaurant: Huolala

Location: 206 S Garfield Ave, Monterey Park, CA 91754. (626) 573-8289

Date: November 19 & December 1, 2015

Cuisine: Szechuan Chinese

Rating: Awesome heat

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Oh Szechuan cuisine, how I love thee.

My online searches for new places led me to the well reviewed Huolala, so Sebastian and I decided to give it a try.

The Monterey Park interior is pretty much the typical no frills, food on the wall type.

The menu is full of Szechuan goodies.

And they have the cold appetizer bar.

Of course we had to order Dan Dan Mein, the classic.

This was a solid version. The noodles themselves were excellent. It was a bit wet and soupy, with not quite enough nut paste or meat for my taste, but the flavor was good with some numbing heat.

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Hot and spicy glass noodles. Not the best of this dish I’ve ever had, but lots of nice tangy hot flavor.

Eggplant with garlic. This is always a tasty dish, but this particular implementation was a 10. Nice soft, hot eggplant, and a tremendous garlic kick. Yum!

Sautéed lamb with hot pepper. 2-3 times fried lamb chunks with peppers, Szechuan peppercorns, and puffed rice. The lamb was full of flavor and fairly tender. The crispy rice was interesting, particularly as it soaked up the aromatic flavor of the surrounds (and the chili oil). Great stuff.

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Dry Braised Yellow Fish. Never had this prep, with spicy peppers, garlic, and slices of Chinese sausage!

Kung Pao tofu. I’m not sure I’ve had my King Pao with tofu. These were great chunks of fried soft tofu, tossed with peanuts and chilis. Rather excellent actually.

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Mao Po tofu. A top top notch version of the classic. Great soft texture and a rich spicy meaty sauce. Not too salty too (which is a good thing).
As this was just a pair of quick lunches, we only sampled a few dishes, but everything was really top notch in terms of flavor and ingredient quality, so we will have to come back and broaden out. Stay tuned!

Afterward, to cool down, we had to head to Salju Dessert and picked up this guava snow with passionfruit, kiwis, strawberries, and almond jelly.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Chengdu Taste – Power of the Peppercorn
  2. Spicy City!
  3. Spice Up Your Life Szechuan Style
  4. Hip Hot
  5. Serious Szechuan
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: chili, Chinese cuisine, Huolala, Sichuan, Szechuan, Szechuan Chinese

Night of the Whirling Noodles

Sep09

Restaurant: Hai Di Lao Hot Pot

Location: 400 S Baldwin Ave, Arcadia, CA 91007. (626) 445-7232

Date: September 7 & 20, 2015

Cuisine: Chinese Hot Pot

Rating: Very solid hot pot with good ingredients

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I’ve been eating Shabu Shabu for decades, but it was only about 7 years ago on a trip to China that I realized it was actually a food derived from China. True, the Japanese put their own wonderful spin on nearly any food type they incorporate, but they picked it up while “visiting” in Northern China during the war and toned down the spice.

Hai Di Lao is a hugely popular Chinese hot pot chain that has moved to America.

And it’s located in the middle of the food area of Arcadia’s Westfield mall!

The menu is extensive. Not as huge as Hot Pot Hot Pot, but certainly big enough. They are also so modern that you order from ipads at the table!

The interior is updated and contemporary Chinese.

It was busy too, even at 5pm!

A great feature here, and an area in which the bargain Hot Pot Hot Pot totally fails at is the sauce bar. They have this HUGE bar where you can build your own sauce concoctions. Plus there are various cold appetizer ingredients there too.

Row after row of different sauce components.

More.

More.

And even more, including the giant vat of garlic!

And there were four of these helpful cards providing suggestions for those who aren’t sauce experts.

Amuse. These skewers of indeterminate yellow stuff came with the meal. They had a bit of crunch too them. I think it was some turnips and the like.

2011 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #10. JG 92. The contributing parcels are Ferbert and Gertzgrub, mid and low slope, and of course Schaefers knew and could show me on the satellite map. We’re sleeker now, but again this tumbling swelling into an absurdity of mineral nuance and lip-licking saltiness; a doctoral thesis in slate.

agavin: great with the heat.

Pickled vegetables.



Above were some of our sauce concoctions.

I also made this spicy mung bean jelly. Yum!

Mushroom broth. With enoki, shiitake, and cloud ear mushrooms. Another huge win at HDL is that everyone has an individual Hot Pot. One of my problems at some other places is sharing a big hot pot with 10 people. This was a nice light mild broth.

Spicy Szechuan Broth. I got this one. Szechuan spicy oil and ginger with garlic. Spicy and also a little numbing. Awesome stuff, basically the same chili oil / numbing heat as a “fish filets boiled in chili oil” Szechuan dish. Really had a lot of flavor even on its own without the sauces.

Shrimp. These large shrimp had to be pulled out of the pot quickly, but they were good.

Nice fresh scallops on ice.

The lobster seafood combo. Salmon, scallops, shrimp, lobster, and orange clam.

A selection of meat balls. Some meat, some fish. I liked them all.

2004 Saxum Syrah Broken Stones. Parker 92-95. Exquisite from the barrel, the opaque ruby/purple-colored 2004 Broken Stones (75% Syrah and 25% Grenache) exhibits crisp underlying acidity, a sweet perfume of raspberries, blackberries, garrigue, pepper, and spice box, full body, and tremendous length, richness, and balance. It should easily age for 12+ years. I highly recommend that wine enthusiasts who love Rhone Ranger wines pay a visit to the James Berry Vineyard, one of the true grand cru sites in the region.

agavin: a monster, and quiet nice once the heat of the food had settled down.

Marinated beef tenderloin. Lean beef marinated with Korean chili. Good stuff, although not like you could taste the chili after it was boiled in my chili oil and drowned in my super strong hot sauce mix 🙂

Angus Rib Eye. I think. Had to remember which meat we ordered. This was one of our favorites.

Beef Short rib. More yummy meat.

Lamb shoulder. Awesome and tender. These aren’t super frozen like the ones at Hot Pot Hot Pot, which is a good thing.

Spam. Delicious. You mock it, but it’s great in the pot.

Crispy pork sausage. These delicious little Frankenfurters open up like squid flowers in the heat.

Mixed vegetable combo. Obvious enough.

Mixed Mushroom combo. Good stuff.

Soft tofu. I love the texture here. With the spicy sauce it was like Ma Po.

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuSLhEsZTmQ]

Dancing Noodle.

Made with wheat, egg, and flour. The noodle dancer comes to your table and stretches the noodle in a pretty amazing display of noodle power.

The hand pulled noodle goes right into the pot. In this sauce, it was fine on it’s own after 2 minutes.

Mango pudding. “Free” dessert. Cool and hit the spot.

And some more, fresh fruit.

We liked HDL. In fact, I thought it was much better than Hot Pot Hot Pot, which while good, was kind of a zoo of cheap prices. The advantages here are solid ingredient quality, great broth choices, the amazing sauce bar (HPHP sauces were lame, and the sauce is very important), and individual pots. The individual pot is key. Sharing all the ingredients is fun, but when you have 8-10 people in one pot you don’t really control what you cook, how long, or that you even get it. Plus it’s a little gross.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Tsujita LA – Artisan Noodles
  2. Yojie – Deep Boiled Noodles!
  3. From Noodles to Fish
  4. Late Night Medicine
  5. Elite Wine Night
By: agavin
Comments (7)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Chinese cuisine, Hai Di Lao, hot pot, noodles, Szechuan

Beijing Tasty House

Nov05

Restaurant: Beijing Tasty House

Location: 172 E Valley Blvd. San Gabriel, CA 91776. (626) 573-3062

Date: November 2, 2014 & February 8, 2015 & October 15, 2017 & December 3, 2017 & March 11 & April 1, 2018

Cuisine: Beijing Chinese

Rating: Tasty – very Tasty!

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The bounty of Chinese restaurants in the San Gabriel Valley. They open all the time in almost every type of regional Chinese cuisine. Beijing Tasty House fits in the inclusive style of the capital, which sucks in cuisine not only from right around it but from central and western areas like Szechuan.

This report is a composite of many meals. Sometimes I feel it better illustrates a restaurant’s character to do it this way.


The relatively modern interior. I have to point out the SGV special cove ceilings and the mismatched curtains.

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There are two private rooms behind those screens. Twice with larger groups we’ve used them — both of them!
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One of the private rooms on 3/11/18.

2002 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé. IWC 92. Pale yellow-gold. Fresh citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complicated by notes of gingerbread, white flowers and sweet butter. Toasty lees and mineral qualities gain power with air, adding depth to the wine’s gently sweet pear, honey and tangerine flavors. At once rich and lively, finishing with excellent clarity and alluring mineral and floral character. This Champagne, which I’ve tasted from three different disgorgements now, is proving that it’s built for the long haul.


Crunchy cucumbers with pork. This is a traditional cord starter. Unfortunately, in 2014 ours came near the end of the meal and that just didn’t work. They were also a bit mushy. We had this again on 10/15/17 and it was very good, crunchy.


NV Schramsberg Vineyards Mirabelle Brut Rose. 89 points. Soft aromas of apple, pear, citrus, cherry, mushroom, yeast. On the palate, more pronounced citrus – mainly grapefruit – and strawberry. Nicely tart, and a touch saline. Not very deep or complex, but tasty and refreshing.


Spicy Cold Noodles (Dan Dan Mein). Pretty much a classic Szechuan version of the dish. There is sesame and bean paste, chili oil, and cold noodles.


(2) NV Moët & Chandon Champagne Nectar Imperial Rosé. IWC 87. Orange-pink with a vigorous mousse Creamy orange, cherry and strawberry preserves on the nose. Rich and velvety, with sweet tangerine and red berry flavors carrying through the finish. This would be nice with blue cheeses.

A (2) indicates this was a wine at the second dinner.


Stirred up it was quite delicious. Not super spicy, but with a bit of nuttiness. Beijing Tasty House was extremely reasonable and a dish like this was only $4.99. We liked this so much it was a repeat the second time around.


2012 Ojai Sauvignon Blanc McGinley. IWC 91. Light, bright yellow. Musky aromas of yellow apple, grapefruit pith and candied ginger. Sappy, focused and mineral-driven; at once rich and lively, with gentle floral lift to its sappy orchard and citrus fruit flavors. The floral note gains volume with air, adding vibrancy to a dry, gripping, linear finish.


Hot and Sour Noodles. These spicy noodles had a mild numbing quality from the Szechuan peppercorn and a pleasant heat. Lots of vinegar too. Had this in 14, 15, and on 10/15/17. Great every time. Very nice balance, not super hot.


You can see the noodles themselves are glass noodles. This was a fabulous dish and another repeat. The second time we kept the sauce to eat over rice (and all sorts of things).

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Knife cut noodles with lamb (10/15/17). Another great noodle dish. Much more “savory” and enhanced by adding some chili oil.
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Noodle with Green Beans (3/11/18). Looks like old school noodles but actually darn tasty.
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Sliced Potato (3/11/18). A good version of this dish, particularly dipped in the sour chili sauce above.
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Spicy Sliced Potato (4/1/18). Slight variant — even more flavor. I really liked these.

2012 Gilbert Picq & ses Fils Chablis Dessus La Carriere. IWC 92. Bright pale yellow. Aromas of mango, pineapple, crystallized lemon peel and crushed rock; still a touch reduced. Dense, chewy and rich, with citrus zest and iodiney mineral flavors that stimulate the taste buds. Finishes tactile and long, with strong salty minerality. Sexy and elegant. Picq sends a good quantity of this wine to the U.S. and recommends serving it with volaille blanc or grilled sea bass.


(2) 2011 Deux Montille Meursault Les Casses-Têtes. Burghound 89-91. Strong reduction renders the nose completely unreadable. There is excellent volume and a strong minerality to the delicious, vibrant and appealingly textured medium-bodied flavors that possess a saline character on the clean, dry, persistent and impeccably well-balanced finish. This is a fine villages that is worth considering.


Lamb buns. The lamb meat was nice, but the buns were dense. Really dense. In the end, most of us ate out the meat or went open face.
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Boiled lamb with chili sauce (10/15/17). Hideous but awesome dish. The lamb was super tender and had tons of great lamb flavor. Plus that chili sauce always notches everything up.

(2) 2009 Marcassin Chardonnay Three Sisters Vineyard. 93 points. Awesome wine. Burgundian style, like a grand cru. Great minerality, with lemon, apple, and brioche taste. Superbly long finish for a white wine. Beautifully extracted with everything in balance. Very restrained acid.

agavin: Very restrained acid is what I call flabby! A rich wine, but not enough backbone.


Cumin Lamb. The classic hot sizzling cumin lamb. Full of strong savory flavors.
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Sizzling cumin beef (4/1/18). Pretty much the same dish but with beef.

2010 Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère. IWC 95+. Bright pale yellow. Soil-driven aromas of grapefruit, fresh dill and flinty minerality. Dense and brisk on entry, with outstanding grand cru intensity to the lemon and crushed stone flavors. Conveys a strong impression of silex . This boasts the sappiness of the best 2010s and finishes with outstanding stony, citric persistence. Like a slap in the face today, this wine demands at least several years of bottle aging, at which point it may merit an even higher score.


(2) 2010 Domaine Bechtold Gewurztraminer Engelberg. 91 points. Off-dry and very tropical. Ripe pineapple, Indian-like spices, slight smokiness and an orange marmalade note that makes me think there was some degree of botrytis in this. The palate reflects the nose very well, with a huge pineapple note, lychee and exotic spiciness. It is quite full bodied, with a slightly cloying quality, and initially I didn’t know if it has the acidity or minerality to fully hold up. Needs some time to open up, but a really good wine.

Peking Duck (2014). What would a Beijing place be without Peking Duck? This was an okay version of the classic. The meat was good, but the skin wasn’t quite as crispy as I like.
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And a slightly different presentation in 2017.


The usual pancakes.


Hoisin, green onions, etc. The sauce was good here, thick, maybe homemade, although a touch plummy.
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Duck in the pancake ready to go!
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Duck soup (12/3/17). I’m not a super big fan of duck soup, but this was a good one. Lots of rich bone flavor here and nice tofu.

2009 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg. 91 points. Medium sweetness, with lots of apple and apricot. Long finish, just a hint of petrol as it aged. Had with strawberry shortcake and then by itself.


From my cellar: (2) 1998 Nikolaihof Riesling Federspiel Steinriesler. 92 points. Deeper yellow golden hues; white flower, honey, beeswax, stone, apple, grain; richer body, stone, weight, lemon, solid mid palate, spicy finish, higher alcohol, very focused.


(2) 2012 Peter Lauer Riesling Barrel X. 89 points. Apricot on the nose and in the mouth. Nice acidity.


Spicy Garlic Eggplant. Most people agreed that this was one of the best eggplant dishes they’ve ever had. It had an awesome garlicky flavor.
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Eggplant in Garlic Sauce (3/11/18). I think a slight variant on the above.

Cabbage with bacon. A nice traditional cabbage dish. Not quite as good as the Beijing Restaurant version, and the bacon was a touch soggy, but good nonetheless.
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Cabbage dynamite (10/15/17). Another cabbage variant. A little bit of heat. Nice crunch and flavors. I actually like these cabbage dishes a lot.

2005 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese. IWC 90. Pale yellow. Rich aromas of lichee, lemon oil and pine.Luscious yet piquant tropical fruit flavors accented by smoke. In spite of the wine’s substantial depth, subtle acidity brings spice and finesse to the finish.


(2) 2012 Georg Albrecht Schneider Riesling.


(2) More Riesling.


Coconut Shrimp (earlier and 10/15/17). Why they named this dish “coconut shrimp” is beyond me because there was A) no coconut and B) it’s exactly like everyone else’s “walnut shrimp.” But it was a tasty version with large moist shrimp — lots of mayo!

Also good enough to order three times.
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Shrimp with Sweet and Pungent sauce (3/11/18). A tangier variant of the fried, sauced, shrimp. Quite excellent.
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Lobster with garlic and ginger (4/1/18). Solid!

2003 Carl Schmitt-Wagner Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Auslese. 89 points. Deeply pitched and complex on the nose, quite forward, offering notes of pineapple custard, mint, allspice, and baked lemon. Medium to full bodied on the palate, there’s a lot of richness here, but the overall feel is one of lightness. A beautiful sweet-sour balance provides interest, but this lacks depth of flavor on the palate.


(2) 2012 Charles Baur Riesling Eichberg.


Cumin Lamb Skewers. Classic fatty meat grilled and smothered in strong cumin flavor.


2005 Aubert Pinot Noir Reuling Vineyard. I’m actually going to post 3 reviews of this wine to illustrate reviewer difference of opinion. It should be noted that Robert Parker has a shit palette for pinot noir 🙂

Parker 95. The 2005 Pinot Noir Reuling Vineyard reminds me of a top DRC Richebourg. Of course, this is made from the famed Calera clone of Pinot Noir, which was suitcased in from one of the most renowned vineyards in Burgundy. The wine exhibits that beautiful sweet black currant, flowery nose, with sweet black raspberry and very ripe cherry notes intermixed with spring flowers and some spice from the wood. A wine of considerable opulence, complexity, and tremendously savory, expansive texture, this wine should drink beautifully for at least a decade.

IWC 93+. Deep ruby-red. Deeply pitched aromas of blackberry, smoked meat and underbrush. Dense and thick but with lovely energy to its complex, deep, soil-inflected flavors of dark fruits, smoked meat and black tea. This is about much more than just fruit. Finishes with substantial but essentially gentle tannins. Interestingly, the Vosne-Romanee clones used for the UV have produced an essence of California pinot in ’05, while these Calera clones have yielded a wine in a more Burgundian style.

Burghound 83. A cough syrup and menthol nose leads to moderately vibrant big-bodied flavors that culminate in an edgy, bitter, unbalanced and hot finish. While there is plenty of structure, I would not age it as the alcohol already dominates and aging will only exacerbate that quality.

More Crazy variance. Allen Meadows hates this stuff.

(2) 2007 Aubert Pinot Noir UV Vineyard.

IWC 93. Good deep red. Aromas of black cherry, black tea and a spicy hint of chocolate. Tactile and dense but with a light touch considering its 15.8% alcohol, showing lovely lift to its dark berry, spice and saline soil tones. There’s a brooding quality to this pinot’s dark fruit flavors, but its pliant texture and early sweetness and personality should give it more immediate appeal than the Rueling bottling. Finishes with ripe tannins, a slight suggestion of warmth and sneaky length.

Burghound 78. This is extremely ripe though not to the point where there is no pinot character remaining but unfortunately, the palate impression of the impressively scaled flavors and finish is both edgy and hot. While I generally refrain from discussing the motivations behind any given style, this is sufficiently extreme that one at least wonders what the point is as there would appear to be other varieties better suited for this purpose?


Steamed Lamb Dumplings (earlier and 10/15/17). From that western thick skin style of dumpling, but still tasty. Similar to at JYTH. nice flavor.

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Pork dumplings (10/15/17). Look the same, but a much more mild flavor. Nice pork centers.


From my cellar: 1999 Domaine de L’Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges. Burghound 89. More serious than the ’99 Clos de l’Arlot though not quite as ripe with color that is almost black as is the fruit with crushed herbs and intense minerality, succulent flavors and excellent pinot character. There are sizeable tannins that are completely wrapped in velvety fruit and this displays a slightly sweet finish. This is really very fine and fresh and while this is not a truly dense wine, it has filled out better on the mid-palate than I originally predicted. It will also need a bit more time as well to really arrive at its prime drinking window.



Lamb Bone Hot Pot. Don’t know the exact dish name. This interesting and tasty broth had a bitt of Szechuan peppercorn, cumin flavors, and a whole bunch of other unidentified herbs. All spice? Star Anise? It was sizzling hot with big boney chunks of lamb. After you left them to cool, they were pretty tasty. The sauce was great over rice.


Our second time around this dish was MUCH better. First of all, it had more peppers and the bones had a lot more meat on them. Second, they gave us this sesame sauce. We weren’t sure what to do with it, but it turned out that when stirred into the lamb broth it was amazing, almost like a Thai curry.
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Bullfrog hot pot (10/15/17). Tons of mala and heat. Lots of peppers.

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The frog tasted great although, as usual, it was boney and there wasn’t that much actual frog.

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Hot and Spicy Mixed Hot Pot
(3/11/18). This had everything in it, from tripe to beef, to tofu, to spam, to pork blood. It was rather excellent too. Great sauce.

(2) 2007 Siduri Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Vineyard. Burghound 90. A very subtle touch of wood frames beautifully complex and moderately ripe dark plum, cherry and intense violet that is also picked up by the attractively fresh, generous, round, forward and delicious flavors that possess good underlying energy on the sappy and lingering finish that has a lovely inner mouth perfume. About the only nit here is a trace of warmth but to the wine’s credit, it’s subtle.


Meat balls. Not sure if these were pork or beef. They were just so so. Fine, but I wouldn’t order them again.

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Shredded pork with preserved mustard greens and soy beans (3/11/18). Wonderful new dish. Salty with a lot of umami.

2001 Domaine Michel Gaunoux Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Épenots. Burghound 93. Warm nose, pungent, leathery and clay. Touch of brown on the miniscus. Excellent concentration here. Sweet fruit on the palate, the acidity is present but mild but becomes more pronounced on the finish. More strict, not exuberant – graceful but will the future show more fruit or acid?


From my cellar: 1991 Camille Giroud Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts. 90 points.

Beijing Chick Wings. Cumin rubbed super hot grilled chicken wings! Very yummy.


Domaine Jaeger-Defaix Rully 1er Cru Clos de Chapître. 89 points. Ripe and attractively fresh red currant aromas combines with hints of earth, spice and wood nuances. The spice character continues onto the mildly rustic middle weight flavors that exude a pretty touch of minerality that adds lift to the delicious and complex finish where the wood telegraphed by the nose resurfaces. This will most appeal to those who enjoy evident, if not generous, oak influence with their burgundy.


(2) 2007 Louis Latour Corton Domaine Latour. Burghound 87-90. Light ruby. An interesting if not overly complex nose of red and black cherry with earth nuances make for a less than dramatic introduction to the round, easy, forward and supple flavors that are also on the light side though the finish tightens up enough to suggest that cellar time is definitely needed. Moreover, the finish offers much better depth than can be found on the nose. In sum, this isn’t a bad wine so much as it’s not very typical by the standards of what one expects from a classic Corton.


Salt and Pepper Shrimp. Emphasis on the peppers! But it actually wasn’t very hot if you pulled out a shrimp. Nice tasty crustaceans.
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Chicken bones with chilies (10/15/17). The aromatic dish with really tasty boney bits of chicken.
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Diced chicken with chilies (12/3/17). A slight variant on the above, but with more meaty chunks and less bone.


2005 Pandora Seymour’s Vineyard.


Pork Roll. This giant burrito was like a massive pork sausage Stromboli. Tasted great but heavy as can be! Hard to finish a slice.


(2) 2007 Domaine Pavelot (Jean-Marc et Hugues) Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode. Burghound 92. Here the nose is every bit as complex as that of the Gravains with its pure and ripe aromas of plum, earth, stone and spice hints that introduce intensely earthy medium-bodied flavors that are textured and refined but powerful, all wrapped in a finish that displays a hint of animale on the slightly more structured finish that seems to go on and on. This offers a qualitative choice as it is less elegant than the Gravains but more powerful and perhaps a hair more persistent as well. Either way, both are terrific.


Kung Pao chicken. A nice rendition of the classic. Not super spicy but very tasty.
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Beef with black pepper sauce (10/15/17). Pretty mild in flavor. I liked it, as did some others, but others thought it was one of the weaker dishes.

1998 Fox Creek JSM. IWC 90. Bright, deep ruby. Spicy, lively aromas of cassis, bitter chocolate and mint. Supple, intensely flavored and nicely focused; sappy berry and spice flavors are nicely framed by harmonious acids. Dense and concentrated. Youthfully firm finish features fine tannins and very good length.


Sweet and sour fish (earlier and 10/15/17). Who can taste the fish under all that fry and sweet and sour sauce? Still tasted good.1A0A4570
In 10/15/17 was really awesome with a super crispy outside. You can see the improvement!


(2) 2013 Belle Glos Pinot Noir Clark & Telephone Vineyard. 88 points. This is the whackiest pinot I’ve ever tasted. The color was deeper purple than our deep purple Cab and it tasted like vanilla oak wrapped around a tiny little berry. This is a pinot vinified like a Carlisle Zin!


Fresh fish with cumin and chilies. This fish (buried under all that chili) was fairly simply cooked with a lot of cumin. It was quite nice, if boney and hard to get at.

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Fish with two chilies (10/15/17). Awesome fish smothered in 2 different tangy chili sauces.


2004 Mitolo Shiraz McLaren Vale. 95 points.


Fried rice (earlier and 10/15/17). With a bit of everything in it.

The second time around we ate with either the red noodle sauce or the lamb sauce.


2001 Celler Del Pont Priorat Lo Givot. 91 points. Purple/ruby in color. The nose has raisins, black raspberries and a smoked quality. Soft texture. Dark and deep on the palate. Black raspberries. It got a bit funky on the finish, but that seemed to blow off. I don’t believe I ever had this, but I really enjoyed it. Got better as the night went on despite its age.


Pork Fried Dumplings. Greasier and perhaps tastier than the steamed ones.


2004 Outpost Petite Sirah The Other. RJ 92. Quite tannic, but not in a way that’s unpleasant. Concentrated and fruitily tasty with nice PS notes. A real pleasant surprise, this one, given others’ notes. The nose is light, but the mouth is great, and the length is substantially dense and decently long. Nice rd and black fruit notes, good depth, nice feel. Have I mentioned that I like this wine?


Pig Intestine Stew with Tofu. Various bits of tempeh, pig stomach, pig intestine. Yuck. I don’t know why Yarom likes to order this kind of offal. Just giving him s**t. Even a few of the organ lovers who dared try it declared it a “bad dish.”


2012 Yaso Toro. 87 points. Rather simple cherry cool aid. Inexpensive though and a pleasant enough weekday wine.


Hand cut noodles with pork. A weird sweet and sour flavor, with fairly typical, almost Panda Express ingredients. The pork was tasty though and the noodles had a nice texture.

We ended up getting it both times by accident. I wouldn’t have.


Sweet and sour spareribs. Yummy sweet fatty nuggets.


(2) 2006 d’Arenberg Cabernet Sauvignon The Coppermine Road. IWC 92. Opaque ruby. Powerful cassis and blueberry aromas are complicated by lavender and pungent herbs. Fleshy, palate-staining dark berry flavors are enlivened by juicy acidity. Gentle tannins add grip but don’t get in the way of the lush, creamy fruit. Very impressive cabernet, with the sweetness to drink on the young side but the depth and balance to reward patience.


Ma Po Tofu. A tolerable but not particularly great version of this dish. Some spice, but a lot of oil. Still I enjoyed it, because I adore Ma Po, but it could have been better.

(2) 2011 Double Diamond (Schrader) Cabernet Sauvignon Bomber X. 89 points. Big & bold, lots of fruit and a little tannin. This wine could wait awhile.


Omelet. Pretty much what it looks like. A nice fluffy omelet with green onions.


Candied Sweet potato. Very sticky. Very hot. Tasty.
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Made by me (Sweet Milk Gelato) on 3/11/18: Fior Di Philly – Philadelphia Cream Cheese base, with Graham Cracker and Strawberry Topping mix ins!
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Made by me (Sweet Milk Gelato) on 4/1/18, left to right:

Best Vegan Chocolate Gelato Ever – Thai coconut milk & cream base with 100% Valrhona chocolate!

Mangle Berry Sorbetto – Mango and Blackberry sorbetto with a touch of Aperol

Coconut Rum Lime Sorbetto – Thai coconut milk base with dark vanilla rum and lime juice.

Overall, I thought this was a great meal and exceedingly reasonable. We ordered about 8 peking ducks, maybe more, and it was still only $42 a person with tax and a huge tip. We could have eaten a massive meal for $30. But I’m all for the overkill. Yarom did a good job ordering (except for the pig guts) and we had some great stuff in all sorts of categories. I like this style of Chinese cooking as it emphasizes flavor. It’s not straight Szechuan, but has many Szechuan dishes, and all sorts of other good stuff too. Not your typical Chinese American. Most dishes were very well executed. The noodles were fabulous. Some of the cumin stuff. The eggplant. Even the goopy sweet and sour fish was great.

The second time around we didn’t order Peking Duck but had even more dishes and it was only $31 all in, so the duck definitely runs up the price. I liked this place the first time, and even more the second. Maybe they’re getting into a groove, or maybe we also ordered better. Some dishes like the Lamb Hot Pot improved considerably.

The third time they were out of duck (sigh) but we ordered up a stone of more unusual dishes, total of $47 (and only because we were only 6 people and over ordered) and most of them were amazing. Some repeat dishes really improved. This place has gotten very very good and it has a huge menu with a lot of great variants.

A fun night! And if I was going to take a group of friends to the SGV for a “bargain dinner” this would be a great place, as is Beijing Restaurant. Unlike a pure Szechuan place there are dishes for the spice hater. The good Cantonese Banquet houses are great for first timers too, but they are more established and much more expensive with their emphasis on crab, lobster, and other expensive ingredients.


Then down the street for Foot Massage! ($15 an hour!) Earlier AND 10/15/17. Alibaba has very good staff but they don’t spend enough time on the feet (I guess you can ask).


And to the boba tea house for…
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Soothing rose tea (10/15/17).

Giant mango shaved ice with strawberries, ice cream, sweetened condensed milk and almond jelly.
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Another mango shave ice (10/15/17) with honey boba, vanilla and mango ice cream, and almond jelly. So yummy!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

Wines from 10/15/17:
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Related posts:

  1. Hedonists go to Beijing
  2. Shin Beijing Again
  3. Shin Beijing Cubed
  4. Tasty Duck Will Bring You Luck
  5. Tasty Duck Lives up to its Name
By: agavin
Comments (5)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Beijing Tasty House, Chinese cuisine, hedonists, san Gabriel valley, Szechuan

Szechuan Everywhere

Oct23

Restaurant: Chuan’s

Location: 5807 Rosemead Blvd. Temple City, CA 91780. (626) 677-6667

Date: October 21, 2014 and January 4 & 12, 2016 and March 6, 2016

Cuisine: Szechuan Chinese

Rating: Great flavors, not ultra hot

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I love me some Szechuan, and surprisingly, so do a lot of others because Szechuan places have become all the rage lately. This is a composite meal built from 2 Hedonists dinners and several casual lunches.


Chuan’s is the latest Chinese chain to open a Southern California output, like Meizhou Dongpo in the Century City Mall.


The interior is actually styled and casual but cute. They have a private room too which we ate in.






The menu is super glitzy with big clear pictures of every dish (oh so helpful!). This is the 2014 edition, as it has changed slightly since then.


Spicy peanuts. With celery. These do have a mild kick.
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Vinegar peanuts. King of like a tangy Kung Pao without the meat!
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Cold appetizer plate. Cured beef, beef tripe, and firm tofu.


Coated Lima Beans. Delicious actually. A kind of sweet and salty vibe.

Chuan’s didn’t offer liquor on our first visit, and we couldn’t bring ours in really either. But they did have this (non-alcoholic) Sour Plum Juice that was quite delicious. It had a smokey rich flavor. Really smokey — the most like bacon of any juice I’ve ever had.

Cold eggplant with preserved green chilies. A bit funny looking, but pretty damn good, and that’s even with this being the style of steamed eggplant I usually don’t like. The chilies were excellent.
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Spicy avocado. Never had this one. Maybe a Cal/Chinese hybrid, but pretty good.


Chopped Chicken with Fresh Peppercorns. The menu version had a lot more peppercorns. This is always a good dish, and this example was no exception. There was the “boney chicken bits” problem, but, hey, this is authentic Chinese food. It wasn’t that hot.


Bean Jelly with Preserved Soybean and Peppers. A fabulous dish (even if the bean jelly noodles were a bit thick) as it had a delicious tangy, salty, hot flavor that was nicely in balance.

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Another Bean jelly. There are two versions of this dish, with slightly different sauces on the menu. Very slippery!


Dan Dan Noodles. The Szechuan classic. Both times we came for dinner the dan dan was a tad bland, although the noodle texture was nice.

Here they are mixed up. On my several lunch visit (pictured) the dan dan was great, with a lovely complex nutty undertone. Small portion though (perfect for 1-2 people).


Chengdu Sour and Spicy Vermicelli. A bit more flavor than the Dan Dan, but still maybe a little bland on the first visit. On the second dinner visit this had been punched up with a lot more sauce (below).

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And this version was great, with that sour/numbing vibe.


Chili slathered Pork Dumplings. These were great. Better than Chengdu Taste, not as good as this mall food (lol).


Sweet and Sour Herba Houttuyniae. Never heard of this herbal green. But it was delicious.

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Sesame lettuce. A really nice salad, with a very strong sesame dressing.


Crispy Duck Drenched in Oil. The name about sums it up. This had a nice pastrami-like tea-smoked flavor.


Ma Po Tofu. A delicious take on the classic. This version had a nice tang, great texture, and a bit of heat. It didn’t really have enough peppercorn numbness for my taste, but it was still probably the dish of the night in October 2014. In March 2016, it was a little salty and the tofu a little soft.

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Combination fried rice. Solid fried rice.


Fish with Pickled Cabbage from Hometown. The “green chili” version of the boiled fish dish typical in Szechuan. This one was moderately mild. Fine, but not exciting.


Cherry Braised Pork. Fatty, but absolutely delicious. Like melt-in-the-mouth bacon cubes.

Fish filets boiled in chili sauce. The classic Chungking dish. Not bad at all. Nice soft/fresh filets of fish.


Boiled Beef with Chilis. This was a hotly debated dish at the table. I thought it was very tasty, although on the mild side. Some others didn’t love it.


The sauce was incredibly delicious over rice. Have a bit of chili oil!

Shredded chicken and glass noodle with chilies. This third boiled chili dish was fabulous with soft strips of boneless chicken and glass noodles buried in all that red.

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Dry cooked string beans with potatoes. The classic Szechuan green beans + french fries in spicy sauce!

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Corn with pork belly. Insanely good. The lardon-like pork served as the fat in place of the butter and made for one tasty corn dish!
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Suicide potatoes. Sliced potatoes with a fabulous spicy Szechuan rub. Fairly spicy for this meal, but not really that hot on an absolute scale.
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Eggplant. A version of the garlic eggplant dishes, this one with soy beans. Quite tasty, if mild.


Special Lobster. This wasn’t on the menu, and it cost a bundle, but it was absolutely scrumptious — although the meat was a bit hard to get at.

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Chili crab. Great Szechuan dry-pot like vegetables below, and fried crab that was cooked until the shell is soft.


Kung Pao Shrimp Balls. AKA Kung Pao Shrimp. Nice pungent ginger/scallion flavor. Not that hot either but tasty.

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Squid with chilies. Nice chew and flavor. Just a touch of fishiness.

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Fried scallops. Spice in the batter, and VERY fried, with a nice tempura crunch. A little like the Nobu tempura popcorn shrimp.

Dry spicy fried chicken with chilies. Also a classic Szechuan dish. The chicken had ALL the bone bits. Almost every piece was filled with bone. Despite this, or perhaps owing to this, the taste was amazing. You just crunch through the bone and it tasted great with chili aromatics, fat, and a bit of numbing Szechuan peppercorn.


Crispy Beef. Basically, chicken fried steak nuggets! Probably really should have been a lamb dish traditionally, but was beef here. Tasty though. The meat was soft and flavorful. So soft, and so pare, that we were joking about it not being beef.


And the pepper/peanut mix fun to pick at.

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Twice cooked pork with buns. Super tender flavorful meat with soft buns. Awesome combination too. Really tasty together.
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Cumin lamb. The classic, but a very good version with tender lamb.

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Chicken with green chilis. A bit of heat here, and a different style of chili heat than most of the dishes with their red chilies.
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Shredded potatoes. Fine, although I’ve had better versions of this dish.


Special Seafood Dry Hot Pot. Like a Wuhan dish, a mix of dry hot shrimp, potatoes, veggies, fish balls, and the like.
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Fried pumpkin and bean cakes. Greasy, but pretty good for fried Chinese desserts. These had that mochi like consistency with the bean paste inside. VERY fried and greasy.
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Overall, Chuan’s was extremely tasty. The service was great, and they seemed to use fairly high quality ingredients, on par with Szechuan Impression and better than at Chengdu Taste. The flavors were good too and there is a lot of variety on the menu. But it isn’t that spicy. Really, afterward I was thinking it was about right because the through the night burn was fairly mild, but during, I missed that searing/numbing heat that is found at the hottest examples of Szechuan cuisine. Most dishes were well executed. Almost no bombs. Weakest probably was the fish filets, dan dan (both evening visits — although they have been great at lunch), and maybe the duck (a lot of others liked the duck), but there were a lot of very strong dishes too: Ma Po Tofu, dumplings, the meats, Lobster, dan dan (second visit), shredded chicken with noodles.

On our second dinner the young lady above helped us out and she did a great job. We ordered in flights and she kept everything straight and changed out the plates fast.

Chuan’s is one of my favorite Szechuan places for a combination of atmosphere, service, and dish execution. It’s not as “home style” as one like Cui Hau Lou, but they use very good ingredients and I never get the MSG headache.

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The Ladies Room included this amusing public service notice!

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During our March 2016 visit it was close to Chinese New Year and there was a show given by this character in costume — actually pretty cool and certainly mysteriously Chinese.
Afterward (on our October 2014 visit) we went around the corner in the minimall to Guppy’s a strange kitchy Taiwanese place for some shave ice.


Taro/Red Been Shave Ice. This, by the way, is the “to go” a size smaller than the small!


Strawberry shave ice with mango ice cream. This is a small! Notice the cup of sweetened condensed milk on the table, in case it isn’t sweet enough!


Taro, Red Bean, Strawberry, Banana, Shave Ice with Mango ice cream. This gives a better sense of the scale of these monsters!

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here,

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

 

For our March 6, 2016 dinner at Chuan’s we brought wine (they had no liquor license when we first came). They did charge $15 corkage. Here is the lineup of mostly sweet stuff.

NV Paul Bara Coteaux Champenois Grand Cru Bouzy Rouge. 92 points. Nice rose.

NV Jean Josselin Champagne Brut Cordon Royal. 92 points.

From my cellar: 2008 Pierre Morey Meursault Les Terres Blanches. 92 points. Bright yellow. A musky quality blew off to reveal strong nutty notes of macadamia and almond, plus a whiff of iodiney oyster shell. Densely packed, tactile and serious but with a light touch. More rocks and flowers than primary fruit here. A precise, persistent, rather grown-up style of Meursault, and serious for village wine.

2013 Desparada Sauvignon Blanc Borealis.1.E4 McGinley Vineyard. VM 88. The 2013 Sauvignon Blanc Borealis.1.E.4 is an intriguing wine made in amphora. Lemon, grapefruit and white flowers meld together in a bright, nicely balanced wine. The 2013 was made from McGinley Vineyard. As so often happens wines made in amphora, the vessel and elevage dominate the wine’s personality. It will be interesting to see where future vintages go.

2012 Herman Story Tomboy. VM 89. Lemon oil, white flowers, mint and jasmine meld together in the 2012 Viognier Tomboy. Floral notes add lift in an oily, textured Viognier built on raciness and persistence. The 100% new French oak is evident, but nicely balanced at the same time. The 2011 spent 12 months in 100% new French oak.

agavin: too heavy for my taste.

F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Hollerin (don’t remember vintage). VM 93. Medium green-yellow. Dark wet slate dominates the nose initially, with mandarin orange, vineyard peach and anise coming up with aeration. The fruit is sweeter and more opulent in the mouth than the nose suggests, but limey acidity gives shape and lift. Salty minerals linger on the very long finish. This already offers outstanding drinking pleasure, but will continue to improve and should hold well until 2014.

2002 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese. VM 92. A bouquet of lily and narcissus is both sweet and musky. A coulis of red raspberry and molten minerals flows over the palate, but the sheer intensity here is matched by an elegance and lightness of touch. You might say this has the concentration of other recent vintages of Brucke Spatlese but not the weight, a perfect illustration of Donnhoff’s characterization of 2002 as “playful and light even though dense. ” The balance of acid and sugar is perfect, so that the sweetness drops away completely in the back. Red fruit, citrus and devilishly diverse expressions of salt and stones hang around for a lot longer than you can wait before taking the next sip. 2 stars.

agavin: I thought this might have been 5% corked, very light.

2005 Weingut Keller Westhofener Morstein Riesling Auslese. 91 points. A light, almost Spatlese style, but very nice.

2005 Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel. VM 92. Pale golden yellow. Musky peach, a floral nuance and a hint of licorice on the nose.Smoke and honey give way to a spicy acidity on the palate. Well-balanced, vivid auslese, showing an almost salty minerality on the finish.

agavin: 94 points. We thought this was awesome.

From my cellar: 2000 Trimbach Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles. VM 93. Bright medium gold. Superripe aromas of apricot jam, exotic spices, honey and tobacco; just misses the clarity of the best SGN bottlings from this producer. Very dense but not hugely unctuous thanks to firm, perfectly integrated acidity. Sappy, vibrant and very long on the aftertaste.

1999 Domaine Philippe Delesvaux Coteaux du Layon Sélection de Grains Nobles. 94 points. Served lightly chilled as a mid afternoon refresher. Medium amber color, delicate botrytis aromas and flavor notes of apricot, honey, pineapple, brown sugar, and a hint of oranges. This seemed a little less intense than I remember the prior bottles being but it had a delicate, crisp feel that I found delightful on this occasion. Perfectly balanced with a lingering finish, really a delicious drink.. Served lightly chilled as a mid afternoon refresher. Medium amber color, delicate botrytis aromas and flavor notes of apricot, honey, pineapple, brown sugar, and a hint of oranges. This seemed a little less intense than I remember the prior bottles being but it had a delicate, crisp feel that I found delightful on this occasion. Perfectly balanced with a lingering finish, really a delicious drink.

1988 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey. VM 91. Good pale color. Fresh, flinty aromas of apple, fresh herbs and dried fruits. Very rich and pliant in the mouth, with a strong resiny/spicy flavor. Strong for the vintage, and very well balanced. Quite powerful and long on the finish, with complex flavors of honey, earth and tobacco.

2011 Herman Story Syrah Nuts and Bolts. VM 93. A vivid, multi-dimensional wine the 2011 Syrah Nuts & Bolts bursts from the glass with the essence of blackberry jam, melted road tar, graphite, incense and licorice, all in a rich, broad-shouldered style that is immensely appealing. Vibrant mineral notes underpin an exciting, full-throttle Syrah loaded with personality. This may be one of the very finest Herman Story wines I have ever tasted. Readers will want to give the 2011 at least a few hours of air, as the wine really needs time to open up.

2007 Alban Vineyards Syrah Reva Alban Estate Vineyard. VM 94. Inky purple. Black and blue fruits on the nose and in the mouth, with smoke and Indian spice nuances adding complexity. Densely packed and forceful, with building notes of candied licorice and mocha. This very rich, seamless wine shows very good energy in the mid-palate. A candied violet quality comes up on the finish, which clings with impressive tenacity.

Related posts:

  1. Serious Szechuan
  2. Spice Up Your Life Szechuan Style
  3. Chengdu Taste – Power of the Peppercorn
  4. Posh Spice
  5. Century City Heat
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Chengdu, Chinese cuisine, hedonists, hot pot, Pork Dumplings, shave ice, Sichuan, Szechuan

Posh Spice

Sep19

Restaurant: Szechuan Impression

Location: 1900 W Valley Blvd. Alhambra, CA 91803. (626) 283-4622

Date: September 14, 2014 & April 6 & May 6 & May 24, 2016 & June 19, 2017 & February 5, 2018

Cuisine: Szechuan Chinese

Rating: Red sauce for the win

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Szechuan is among my favorite Chinese sub-regions. It’s also, somewhat mysteriously, a really hot genre. Chengdu Taste is so hot (haha) that the line rolls around the corner. The Sept 2014 diner was organized by Skylar. Also included are dishes and impressions from a April 2016 lunch.


As of 2014, Szechuan Impression was brand new, just a couple of weeks old, but it too was mobbed and doesn’t take reservations.


The display out front shows off all sorts of peppery goodness.


The decor is a notch more modern and upscale than the usual SGV spot.




The menu.

Sweet bean and lychee tea. A pretty and unusual beverage.

It should be noted that SI doesn’t have a liquor license, even as of April 2016, so bringing wine wasn’t really an option.
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Rose Honey Tea. Tasted like turkey rosewater sorbet! Very sweet too. (5/16)
 Smoked plum juice. They do have the classic Szechuan plum juice, which I do love.


Vegetables in Chili Oil. As you’ll see, red chili oil is the rule more than the exception with this cuisine.  This appetizer is a bunch of vegetables and weird chicken parts (gizzards or hearts?) skewered in hot (two types of hot) chili oil.


Impressive Cold Noodle. There was debate as to whether this “noodle” was dough or in fact intestine or jellyfish. Anywhichway it was delicious. Nice slick texture and a mild heat. (9/14 & 4/16 & 5/16)


Hou (Honest) Dao (Authentic) Dumplings. Simple but tasty dumplings in chili oil. (9/14 & 5/16)
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Wontons in Chili. Better than the Honest Dumplings, although similar. They had more meat (pork presumably) and hence more flavor. Very good. (5/16)

Smoked Pork Ear. Eeew. Looks like something my Labrador would’ve liked. Kind of hammy and leather textured.
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Impressive Cold noodles. They are fairly impressive. Not meaty or that nutty like Dan Dan, but a really nice chewy noodle with a tasty chili sauce.
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Mapo Tofu. A nice, salty, broad bean dominant version of the classic. (5/16)


Boiled fish Fillets in Chili sauce. A classic dish. Not as incredibly spicy as at Chengdu, but very tasty. The sauce particularly over rice.
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Rice Noodle Lamb. The usual broth with lamb and rice noodles. Tasty, but perhaps not the most exciting of the dishes. (9/14 & 4/16)


Chicken in Chili. With peanuts. The sauce here was even better and there was actually some chicken breast (along with all sorts of weird other parts). (9/14 & 4/16)


And when Yarom “complained” that things weren’t spicy enough, we got this version: Those red chilies on top — hot!
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Spicy Bullfrog Pot. Some bones, because it is frog, but very tender meat. At least they cut it up. I hate whole frog! (5/16)
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Fresh squid dry hot pot. It might actually have been octopus. The flavor on this dish was great, with a TON of cumin. It was also hot hot hot. Hottest dish I’ve had here by far. Really quite a slow punch. The sauce soaked potatoes well great too. The squid/octopus maybe a little chewy (cooked), but fresh and tasty. (5/16)

Toothpick lamb. Tender meat of a higher quality than some places. Really tasty.


Tea Smoked Duck. Cold. Really good. Tasted like ham.


Looks like ham too.

Tea smoked ribs. These had an amazing “forest floor” like smell and fragrant meat that just fell off the bone. (4/16 & 5/16)
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Cumin Lamb. The classic cumin woked lamb. Fairly spicy. (5/16)

Special garlic shrimp. This wonderful dish is a Szechuan “original” version of a dish I frequently get at Chinese American restaurants. There it’s sometimes like tomato soup with shrimp, here it’s a goopy spicy/garlicky wonder. (4/16)


Steamed Taro Chicken Pot. Like many of the other dishes. Just the chicken was even weirder less identifiable parts.


The usual sauce. Have some chili oil!
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Golden Soup with beef (6/19/17). A sort of yellow sweet and sour soup with light noodles and boiled beef. Very nice actually and different. I would get this again.
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Golden Soup with lamb (2/5/18). The same basic soup, but with lamb.
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Fried chicken with chilies (2/5/18). This is the typical aromatic Szechuan dish. Nice version with a thick fry.
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Street Vendor Potatoes. Spicy Szechuan french fries. A little oily. Not as yummy as those shredded potatoes a lot of Szechuan/Hunan places have. (5/16)
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A choy with garlic. Fairly typical Chinese greens with a nice crunch to them. (5/16)


Pumpkin cakes. Nice mochi texture and vague sweetness.


This was someone else’s dessert, a kind of sticky rice.

Overall, Szechuan Impression was very tasty. The ingredient quality and presentation was a notch or too up from some of the other valley Szechuan places. The flavors are complex and the ingredient quality significantly above some of the more “OG” places.

Service was great for SGV Chinese. At my April ’16 lunch a friend of mine was gluten free and they did an excellent job (particularly considering the language barrier) in sorting that out.

Like Chengdu Taste they didn’t allow wine (bummer), and they show no interest in getting a liquor license.

At the Sept ’14 dinner, I think we also could have done a better job ordering, mixing it up a bit to have more different proteins and less wall to wall red sauce. This particular sub-group we were with likes to keep the cost down, but this is a place where cheap is $25 a head and “going nuts” is $35. There are interesting crab dishes and the like on the menu.

I was even more impressed at my April ’16 lunch, having eaten at many many Szechuan restaurants in the 18 months between. Plus, one of my initial gripes with SI was that the menu didn’t feature some of the Szechuan greatest hits but they seem to have expanded the offerings. Because of the wine thing this is more a lunch place for me, but I want to head back and sample a wider portion of the menu.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

Related posts:

  1. Spice Up Your Life Szechuan Style
  2. Hills of Gold and Spice
  3. Chengdu Taste – Power of the Peppercorn
  4. Serious Szechuan
  5. Sugar & Spice
By: agavin
Comments (3)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Chili oil, hedonists, Sichuan, Szechuan, Yarom

Serious Szechuan

Jan29

Restaurant: Cui Hua Lou [1, 2, 3]

Location: 920 E Garvey Ave. Monterey Park, CA 91755. 626-288-2218

Date: January 26, 2014

Cuisine: Szechuan Chinese

Rating: Awesome!

ANY CHARACTER HERE

Chinese food is incredible regional, and we are blessed in SoCal with a lot of very specific restaurants (mostly in the San Gabriel Valley). My Hedonist group has returned to this little known spicy Szechuan in the corner of an undiscovered Monterey Park strip mall. We love Szechuan for its spicy/smoky flavors. This is a cuisine that packs a real punch and is one of my favorites in China.


The storefront, as usual, isn’t much to look at.


A menu with fairly literal translations.


And the usual minimalist decor.


From my cellar: 2001 Ulrich Langguth Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese. 90 points. Quite ripe – more Auslese in style – with a typical Mosel flavor profile. Enjoyable, and a good value for an ’01 Spatlese.

This warrants opening what I might call the “great foodie wine pairing debate” as I find people at my dinners fall into two camps: the “a good wine is a good wine” camp and the “food and wine complement” crew (of which I’m the later). Chinese in general, and Szechuan in particular, is a tricky match as it’s full of vinegar, soy and fermented flavors, and bracing heat. I happen to think Riesling generally pairs well with Chinese, but spicy foot demands a certain sweetness — the more spice the more sugar. However, those in the first group often “don’t like sweet wines.” Interestingly, I’ve noticed that my camp tends to line up with the Burgundy drinkers and the first group with the fans of massive (over) extracted wines.


Bean curd tofu with scallion. Soft silken tofu with scallions and salt (MSG?). Being a lover of this kind of tofu I very much enjoyed this dish — although it was a little salty.


Cucumber with Jelly Fish. Not bad for jellyfish. The cucumber had a nice marinated crunch.


2003 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese. 89-94 points. Beautiful, lush Mosel Riesling. Light straw-brilliant in the glass. Nose of an integrated bouquet of stone, ripe pineapple, mandarin orange, young leather (fleshiness), and light metallic petrol (light). The attack is not tart: it has enough acid to be propped up, but not an awful lot more. A little fatness to the palate even. Yet, it seems a balanced, delicious wine that is in a good spot. Yum, yum. Nice length too. Thumbs up!


BBQ Mushroom. Lots of cumin, chewy mushrooms, and some gradual but significant heat. Pretty delicious.


Beef Tendon in Xiang Ziang style. Lots of cumin. The idea of tendon is a little disturbing, and this has an unusual (for westerners) texture, like a root vegetable (almost), but more chewy. Still, it’s pretty good considering.


BBQ Lamb. Others might call this cumin lamb. A bit dry, but very flavorful.


2009 Bodegas Vinicola Real Rioja Vina Los Valles Crianza. 86 points. Nothing really wrong with this value Rioja (at the price point), except it’s a total fail as far as pairing with Szechuan cuisine. It would be nice at a Madrid Tapas joint.


Potato with Chili. Looks and tastes a bit like al dente noodles. A nice subtle flavor too.


Stewed Lamb in Casserole. This is one of the house special dishes. It comes like this and then heats to a boiling (and spicy) temp.


Below the mutton (the meat is incredibly tender, although on the bone) is a seething pit of chili sauce, cabbage, soft tofu, and glass noodles.


The sauce has an incredible flavor with a good bit of numbing Szechuan peppercorn. It’s incredibly delicious and unique to Szechuan cooking.


2003 Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri Sassicaia Sassicaia. IWC 93. 80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% cabernet franc) Dark ruby-red. Appealing smoky, minerally aromas of red cherry, blackcurrant and plum, with a hint of truffle. Quite suave on entry, then smooth and fine-grained, with good mineral lift to the decidedly sweet red fruit flavors. This broad, rich and supple wine boasts tremendous length and silky-sweet tannins. A great Sassicaia that falls roughly between the ’88 and the ’85 in style at the similar stage of development, although I’m not sure the new vintage will attain the heights reached by those earlier wines.

This was a gorgeous wine… between courses… because as soon as that Szechuan heat kicked in, particularly the numbing effect of the peppercorn, all the fruit was stripped out  left only tannins on the palette. Now the pacing of the meal allowed me to enjoy it, just not exactly with the food.


BBQ Chicken Heart. This is a lot of chicken hearts. They taste like chewy liver. I could have done without.


Chung King twice cooked pork. Very tender and flavorful, and not as spicy as most of the dishes here.


Tilapia with Bean Sauce. Not my favorite this time around. The fish might have been a hair overcooked and the goopy gelatinous bean sauce is a hair off-putting.


1997 Sean Thackrey Orion Rossi Vineyard. Rhone Report 96. Immediately identifiable as syrah, the nose was bursting with blueberries, blackberries, and a hint of eucalyptus. The blue and black berries continue on the palate, adding a little bit of leather/tobacco on the mildly tannic, medium to long finish.

The bigger is better camp loved this wine. It’s not really my cup of tea though, and certainly not with Chinese. With some lamb chops, sure. And we had lots of lamb, but it was covered in cumin and Szechuan pepper!


Scallion Noodles. A boring version of the noodles (those black things are charred scallions) for the vegetarians.


Kung Pao Shrimp. As good a version of the classic as you can find.


Szechuan style bean curd. This is known as Mapo Doufu. It is a combination of tofu (bean curd) set in a spicy chili- and bean-based sauce, typically a thin, oily, and bright red suspension, and often cooked with fermented black beans and minced meat, usually pork or beef. Ma stands for “mazi” (Pinyin: mázi Traditional Chinese 麻子) which means a person disfigured by pockmarks or leprosy, the latter is also called 痲 má or 麻風 máfēng. Po (Chinese 婆) translates as “old woman, grandmother, crone”. Hence, Ma Po is an old woman whose face was pockmarked. It is thus sometimes translated as “Pockmarked-Face Lady’s Tofu”.

It’s one of my favorite dishes and features a wonderful texture, bright taste, and a searing numbing heat.


2002 Sean Thackrey Orion Rossi Vineyard. IWC 92. Red berries, Grand Marnier, Thai basil, geranium, eucalyptus, bitter lime, quinine and resiny oak on the nose. Then thick and dense but penetrating in the mouth, with primary raspberry and strawberry flavors complicated by an exotic apricot note and framed by lively acids. A fascinating, firmly built wine that showed a compelling sweetness as it opened in the glass. Finishes with very sweet tannins and impressive persistence. My score is intended for the initiated: you know who you are.

Same big wine, but younger, and from a somewhat inferior year.


Fried corn. Slightly sweet and could have almost passed for a dessert (certainly in Chinese terms). It blended great on the plate with other items like the above tofu, adding a bit of crunch, salt, and sweetness.


Dan Dan Noodles.


You mix it up. One of the biggest challenge is getting only part of the noodles and an even distribution of the chopped meat at the bottom. Clearly, when Marco Polo brought noodles back to Italy this became the seed for Bolognese sauce, as aside from this being quite spicy, there is a definite similarity. This particular version wasn’t the best I’ve ever had, and doesn’t have the nutty sesame quality the dish sometimes does, but it was certainly enjoyable.


2009 Domaine des Sabines. 90 points. Ruby color with just a slight tinge of blue remaining, surprisingly almost opaque. Nose has peat moss, dirt, wild mushrooms, roasted coffee beans. A hint of licorice with savory notes, plus some dried tobacco. Something sweet here too on the nose – perhaps a touch of bret? On the palate – black cherry, blackberry, roasted or grilled plums. Truly though, this wine is all about the earthy notes and the wood – roasted espresso, caramel, hazelnut, dried leaves and a bit of burnt toast. A minerally, gravel note pops up on the finish too. Chewy mid-palate texture. Tannins are moderate for Bordeaux, and nicely ripe. I know it is 2009, but for LdP, the density is impressive. Medium body. Give it an hour of air and the tight tannins round out and shows off a lovely soft supple quality. Heat shows up a bit on the finish, weight of fruit almost carries it off. I can see this wine with slow roasted braised beef short ribs and caramelized onions. Or a wild mushroom risotto – thinking chantrelles.

About 10 years too young.


Chung King Spicy chicken? I’m not sure which dish this was, but there are little DEEP fried and very dry chicken nuggets in there dry-tossed with long red peppers. It was actually quite tasty.


Hot braised eggplant with garlic sauce. Awesome garlicky flavor, with some significant heat (of both sorts).


Boiled beef and fish. Along with the Mapo tofu, this was my favorite dish of the night. The “broth” is very similar to the lamb casserole and features a tremendous heat born of both red chilies and Szechwan peppercorn. The meat and the fish were both tender and full of flavor. Really quite wonderful (if intense).


BBQ Garlic. Another fabulous dish. Now, eating a whole skewer of this might get one kicked out of bed, but it’s worth it!


Boiled peanuts. These are cold and a bit slimey. I have read that eating lots of boiled peanuts (instead of roasted) avoids peanut allergies for some reason. The roasted ones taste better, but there is nothing really wrong with these.


Kung Pao Chicken. Pretty much the same as the shrimp, but a wonderful version of this Chinese American classic that has real heat and puts PF Changs to shame.


Our table was so overloaded with dishes that we had to stack them!

In conclusion, Cui Hua Lou, while apparently totally undiscovered, offers up some fabulous traditional Szechuan fare. For this second visit we went crazy overboard and ordered up about 50% more food than we needed, still this feast, including tax and tip, only set us back $31 a person! If you like spicy, you should try this place. Just don’t tell too many people!

For more LA Chinese reviews click here.

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

We had about 18 people in our party alone!

Related posts:

  1. Spice Up Your Life Szechuan Style
  2. Chengdu Taste – Power of the Peppercorn
  3. Hunan Chili Madness
  4. Sometimes You Want to Get Crabs
  5. Tasty Dining – Wuhan Dry Hot Pot
By: agavin
Comments (7)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: China, Chinese cuisine, Cui Hua Lou, hedonists, san Gabriel valley, Sichuan, Szechuan, Szechuan cuisine

Spice Up Your Life Szechuan Style

Sep23

Restaurant: Cui Hua Lou [1, 2, 3]

Location: 920 E Garvey Ave. Monterey Park, CA 91755. 626-288-2218

Date: September 20, 2013

Cuisine: Szechuan Chinese

Rating: Awesome!

ANY CHARACTER HERE

Chinese food is incredible regional, and we are blessed in SoCal with a lot of very specific restaurants (mostly in the San Gabriel Valley). Yarom (the leader of my Hedonist group) invited me out to try some spicy Szechuan and a totally undiscovered place he found while wandering around. We love Szechuan for its spicy/smoky flavors. This is a cuisine that packs a real punch and is one of my favorites in China.


The storefront, as usual, isn’t much to look at.


A menu with fairly literal translations.


And the usual minimalist decor.


1999 Joseph Phelps Sauvignon Blanc. IWC 87. Expressive, floral aroma combines melon, grapefruit, mint, licorice and fresh herbs. Supple yet tangy and firm, with nicely focused flavors of lemon, grapefruit, licorice and fresh herbs. Slightly elevated alcohol leavened by brisk acidity. Nice combination of texture and brightness.


Seaweed with chilies. Very pleasant, with a firmness and just a bit of heat.


Jellyfish heads and cucumber. More a texture dish, but it had a bit of a vinegary tang.


2011 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett. IWC88. Aromas of passion fruit and nut oil. The creamy tropical fruits flavors are light, well-balanced and elegant. Certainly fun to drink.


Cured beef shank. Like Chinese pastrami, with a bit of a smokey flavor.


Shredded stomach with scallion. Pork stomach really. I’m not an offal fan, but this was as good as stomach gets.


2007 Lamborghini (La Fiorita) Era Umbria IGT. 88 points. Good dark fruit and cherries on the nose. Significant fruit in the taste along with some herbal notes and good acidity. Medium length with some good tannins at the later part. May need more time to develop.


Stewed lamb in casserole (house special #1).


Inside the hot pot. This stuff was awesome. Probably the best dish (of many). Tasty tender lamb and this amazing hot chili sauce that really had a nice flavor.


Skewers of lamb on the left and Chinese hot dog on the right. Both were rubbed with cumin, making the lamb classic cumin lamb. The sausages were amazing, like sweetish hotdogs rubbed in cumin.


Some more skewers, lamb and chicken wing.


2009 Kongsgaard Syrah. Parker 97. The 2009 Syrah Hudson Vineyard is simply breathtaking. White flowers, spices, savory herbs, licorice, graphite and new leather are some of the many nuances that add complexity to a core of deeply expressive dark fruit. The 2009 impresses for its stunning textural elegance and sheer brilliance.


Cured beef shank in sesame bun. Basically Chinese pastrami sandwich!


Sweet and sour fish. Nice tender Tilapia with a flavorful sweet sauce.


1996 Lanessan. Parker 88. A sleeper of the vintage, Lanessan’s 1996 boasts an impressively saturated dark ruby/purple color, and knock-out aromatics of melted chocolate, asphalt, and cassis. Deep, rich, and medium-bodied, with excellent concentration and purity, this impressively-endowed, flavorful, well-structured wine should be at its finest between 2004-2016.


Beef tendon Xing Ziang Style. Unusual but pleasant texture in a tasty spicy sauce.


Potato with chili. Basically shredded potato with a slight vinegar and oil tang.


2011 Joh Jos Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese. Parker 94. A yeasty, smoky prickle as well as the effect of dissolved CO2 causes the nose to wrinkle from a glass of Prum’s 2011 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese A.P. #18, but behind that are heliotrope and lily-of-the-valley along with ripe apple, pear and melons that in turn inform a delicate, subtly creamy palate of striking transparency to stony, crystalline, alkaline and smoky black tea and liquid floral nuances. This shimmers and excites even as it soothes in a lingering, uplifting, glowing finish. It will certainly merit attention for the better part of a half century.


Kung Pao Chicken. One of the best versions of this classic dish I’ve ever had. Lots of very flavorful Szechuan peppers.


1999 Guiraud. Parker 90. Tasted as part of a vertical held at the chateau. There is a sense of conservatism to the Guiraud 1999, but it still retains attractive scents of dried honey, marmalade and a touch of chlorine. The palate is actually better than the nose, with a lovely seam of acidity and effervescent marmalade and quince-tinged fruit that is very precise toward the long finish. The ’99 should be looked back on as a success in an oft-forgotten vintage.


Pork XO sauce fried noodle.


You mix it up like this and there is lots of pleasant heat to go with the al dente noodles.


Check out that chili oil left in the bowl!


Twice cooked pork. Another fabulous dish. The pork had some heat and sweetness, with a whole lot of flavor.


Ma Po Tofu. One of my favorite dishes. This classic Szechuan dish was the spiciest of the night. The pleasant soft tofu is just on fire. The name literally translated as “Pocked Marked Old Lady Face Tofu” which is quite amusing.


Fried corn. Slightly sweet and passed for a dessert. But afterward,  we went down the street to a shaved ice place, which I’ll blog about seperately.

In conclusion, Cui Hua Lou, while apparently totally undiscovered, offers up some fabulous traditional Szechuan fare. If you like spicy, this place was really very good. Cheap too as this feast, including tax and tip, set us back $21 a person!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

Related posts:

  1. Hedonists Hunan Style
  2. Birthday Party, Hedonist Style
  3. Sicilian Style – Drago
  4. Food as Art: Chanukah in Style
  5. Life of Pi – part deux
By: agavin
Comments (6)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Chinese cuisine, Cui Hua Lou, hedonists, Hot Sauce, Joh. Jos. Prüm, lamb, Ma Po Tofu, Monterey Park, san Gabriel valley, Sichuan, Szechuan, Szechuan Chinese, Szechuan Pepper
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