Restaurant: Damian
Location: 2132 E 7th Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90021. *unknown*
Date: December 29, 2024
Cuisine: Mexican
Chef: Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes
Rating: Surprisingly good
Damian opened in October 2020 at the height of the pandemic, the long-anticipated West Coast project of celebrated Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera and his Casamata partners Santiago Pérez and Jesús Durón (the team behind Pujol, Cosme and Atla). Guided day-to-day by chef de cuisine Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes, the kitchen pursues Olvera’s signature ideology: honor Mexican traditions, then nudge them forward with rigorous technique, disciplined restraint and an obsessive respect for local product. Corn from small Oaxacan farms is nixtamalized in-house for blue-gray tortillas; Baja kampachi is cured with house-made seaweed garum; guava-glazed pork cheek meets smoked date and California greens. The cooking feels unmistakably Mexican yet absolutely rooted in Southern California seasonality, with an undercurrent of Japanese precision that reflects Olvera’s long fascination with that cuisine.
Set inside a former Arts District warehouse, the dining room balances industrial bones—exposed trusses, poured concrete, clerestory windows—with warm Mexican materials: volcanic stone, terrazzo, reclaimed parota wood and a copper-sheathed bar that glows like a hearth. Lush potted nopales and hanging philodendrons soften the geometry, while floor-to-ceiling glass sliders open onto a cactus-lined patio where mezcal cocktails mingle with the aroma of mesquite smoke from the adjoining taco window, Ditroit. The atmosphere is polished but relaxed, a place where vinyl spins softly, servers move with quiet confidence and the boundary between fine dining and neighborhood hangout blurs.
In a city already rich with Mexican food, Damian has carved out a singular niche—an Arts District flagship for modern, produce-driven alta cocina that converses as easily with growers at the Santa Monica farmers’ market as with maíz custodians in Oaxaca. Since debuting, it has attracted both destination diners and industry peers, earning glowing reviews from the Los Angeles Times and a spot on multiple national “best new restaurant” lists. Its presence reinforces downtown L.A.’s reputation as the region’s most experimental dining quarter, and it signals that Los Angeles, not New York, is now the proving ground for the next evolution of Olvera’s restless culinary imagination.
Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes first walked into Enrique Olvera’s Pujol in Mexico City as an extern straight out of culinary school; within a decade he had risen to chef-de-cuisine at Cosme in New York, earning a reputation for marrying exacting French technique with the soulfulness of Mexican home cooking. Born in Guadalajara and raised on the markets of Jalisco, Cervantes absorbed the lessons of coastal seafood, live-fire cookery and the primacy of masa long before he set foot in a professional kitchen. Stints at Olvera’s Atla and a formative stage at Noma further broadened his pantry—introducing Nordic fermentations, zero-waste discipline and a reverence for hyper-local produce. When Olvera tapped him to lead Damian in downtown L.A.’s Arts District, Cervantes arrived with a toolkit that spanned three countries and a Rolodex of West Coast farmers and fisher-folk eager to collaborate.
At Damian he cooks as much for Los Angeles as he does for Mexico: uni tostadas arrive on blue-corn masa nixtamalized in-house, Baja kampachi is cured in citrus grown a few blocks away, and al-pastor marinade becomes the lacquer for Santa Barbara spot prawns instead of pork. The signature style is spare, almost Japanese in its restraint—smoke, acid and chile used for lift rather than heat—yet every plate nods to the memories of a taquería or marisquería. Recognition has followed quickly: a place on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best,” inclusion in the Michelin Guide’s California selection, and an Eater “Best New Restaurants in America” citation, with Cervantes himself named a StarChefs Rising Star in 2022. His guiding philosophy is that tradition is a living organism—one fed by migration, seasonality and dialogue. “If it doesn’t honor the ingredient or the people who grew it, it doesn’t go on the menu,” he says; that mantra keeps Damian simultaneously rooted in Mexico and flourishing in the cultural polyglot that is downtown L.A.
We ordered the whole menu!
We had the special private “nook” at the back of the place.
This is the chips equivalent. Pretty spicy sauces, actually.
Cesar Tostada Boquerones, Parmigiano. This dish features a delightful combination of flavors, with the crispy tostada providing a satisfying crunch, while the marinated boquerones add a briny freshness that dances on the palate. The Parmigiano brings a rich, nutty undertone that beautifully complements the overall taste. The vibrant colors and artful presentation entice the senses, making each bite a harmonious blend of textures and flavors that evoke a sense of culinary sophistication.
Carrot Aguachile Blue Shrimp, Sal de Gusano. This dish features vibrant blue shrimp marinated in a refreshing carrot aguachile, complemented by the unique touch of sal de gusano. The bright orange hues of the aguachile beautifully contrast with the delicate pink of the shrimp, creating a visually stunning presentation. Each bite bursts with a harmonious balance of sweetness and acidity, while the earthy undertones of the sal de gusano add a sophisticated depth, elevating the overall experience to a delightful exploration of flavors and textures.
Salmon Tostada golden tomato, chicatana ants. This dish is a vibrant celebration of flavors, where the rich, buttery salmon contrasts beautifully with the bright acidity of golden tomatoes. The crunch of the tostada provides a delightful textural element, while the chicatana ants add an intriguing earthiness, evoking the essence of the Mexican landscape. The aroma is a harmonious blend of fresh ocean notes and herbaceous undertones, making each bite a captivating experience that dances on the palate.
Ceviche Ginger Turnip Relish, Green Tomato – A vibrant dish that combines the refreshing zing of ceviche with the subtle sweetness of ginger and the earthiness of turnip relish, accented by the bright notes of green tomato. The interplay of textures is delightful, with the tender fish contrasting beautifully against the crispness of the relish. Each bite is a harmonious balance of acidity and sweetness, awakening the palate with its aromatic bouquet and lively colors, inviting you to savor the essence of the sea and garden in every mouthful.
Prawns a la Parrilla Sal de Mar – Grilled prawns seasoned with sea salt. The prawns are succulent, with a slight char that enhances their natural sweetness. Each bite reveals a tender, juicy texture, complemented by the briny notes of the sea salt that dance on the palate. The vibrant pink hues of the prawns, contrasted against the smoky grill marks, create an inviting visual appeal, while the aroma of the ocean lingers in the air, enticing you to savor every morsel.
Tlayuda Zucchini, Ossau Iraty Cheese. This dish features a large, thin tortilla topped with grilled zucchini and melted Ossau Iraty cheese. The combination creates a harmonious balance of earthy and creamy, with the zucchini’s slight char enhancing its natural sweetness. Each bite reveals a delightful interplay of textures, from the crisp tortilla base to the luscious, gooey cheese that envelops the tender vegetables, creating a symphony of flavor that is both comforting and sophisticated.
Artichoke Huarache Weiser Potatoes, Capers. Blurry pic. This dish elegantly marries the earthiness of the Weiser potatoes with the briny pop of capers, creating a delightful contrast in flavor. The artichoke adds a tender, buttery richness, while the vibrant greens and golden tones present a visually stunning plate that invites curiosity and exploration with every bite.
Salsa.
Tamal de Ricotta Corn Cream, Queso Fresco. This was great. The delicate tamal, with its vibrant yellow hue, offers a captivating contrast between the creamy ricotta and the subtle sweetness of corn. Each bite reveals a luscious texture, harmonized by the mild saltiness of queso fresco, creating a delightful symphony of flavors that linger on the palate, reminiscent of comforting, home-cooked meals.
Calamar en su tinta chorizo. A dish that beautifully marries the tender calamari with the rich, smoky essence of chorizo. The ink envelops the seafood in a glossy, dark embrace, offering a striking contrast to the vibrant red of the sausage. The aroma is a harmonious blend of brininess and spice, while each bite unveils a delicate balance of umami and subtle heat, leaving a lasting impression on the palate.
Pescado a la Talla: Dry-aged branzino, chayote. The fish, expertly cooked, boasts a delicate, slightly smoky flavor that harmonizes beautifully with the crisp, refreshing notes of the chayote. Its golden-brown skin glistens, inviting you to experience the tender, flaky flesh within, while the subtle aroma of the sea lingers, promising a delightful culinary adventure.
Duck Carnitas Cola Confit, Shishito Escabeche, Jardin. Tasted like pork! The tender duck carnitas are beautifully complemented by the tangy shishito escabeche, creating a delightful contrast of flavors. The rich, savory notes are enhanced by the subtle sweetness of the cola, while the vibrant colors and textures on the plate invite you to indulge in this harmonious culinary experience.
Celery Root Mole Negro just, Soubise. The earthy depth of the mole intertwines with the subtle sweetness of the celery root, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. The velvety texture of the soubise, infused with a gentle nuttiness, adds a luxurious creaminess, while the rich, dark hues of the dish invite you into a world of complex flavors, punctuated by aromatic notes that linger enticingly in the air.
Peppers and pickles.
Pollito al Pastor pineapple butter, scallion oil. This dish is a vibrant celebration of flavors, with the succulent chicken infused with the smoky essence of the grill, complemented by the sweetness of ripe pineapple. The scallion oil adds a fragrant, herbaceous note, enhancing the dish’s complexity while inviting you to savor each tender bite.
Some kind of side veggie.
Carne Asada Nopal Salpicon, Alubias. A vibrant and refreshing dish that beautifully marries the robust, smoky flavors of grilled carne asada with the earthy, slightly tangy notes of nopal. The tender, succulent meat is complemented by the creamy texture of alubias, creating a harmonious balance that delights the palate. The visual appeal is stunning, with the bright greens of the nopal contrasting against the rich browns of the carne, while the dish’s inviting aroma hints at the depth of spices used. Each bite is a celebration of textures, from the crispness of the nopal to the tender juiciness of the meat, leaving a lingering warmth that invites you to savor it slowly.
Ensalada Verde. A refreshing medley of crisp greens and vibrant herbs, this salad is a delightful starter. The emerald hues of the lettuce are complemented by the aromatic notes of fresh basil and mint, creating a fragrant bouquet that dances in the air. Each bite offers a satisfying crunch, while the subtle peppery undertones of arugula awaken the palate, making it a wonderfully invigorating experience.
Heirloom Frijoles. A delightful dish showcasing a medley of heirloom beans, slow-cooked to perfection. The earthy aroma wafts gently, inviting you to savor each spoonful. With a rich, velvety texture and a harmonious blend of spices, the beans offer a comforting depth, while their vibrant hues create a visually appealing presentation. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, rounded by a subtle sweetness that lingers on the palate, making this dish a true celebration of rustic flavors.
Kimchi Rice is a delightful fusion of flavors that ignites the palate. The vibrant hues of the dish, from the fiery red of the kimchi to the warm golden rice, create an inviting visual feast. As you take a bite, the umami richness of the fermented kimchi intertwines with the subtle sweetness of the rice, while the crunch of freshly chopped scallions adds a refreshing contrast in texture. The aroma wafts enticingly, a tantalizing hint of spice and fermentation that beckons you to savor every mouthful.
Herb Guacamole. A vibrant mix of fresh herbs and creamy avocado, this dish is a delightful twist on the classic guacamole. The bright green hue invites you in, while the aromatic blend of cilantro and parsley offers an invigorating freshness that dances on the palate. Each bite is a harmonious balance of smooth texture and herbaceous notes, leaving a lingering, earthy richness that beckons for another scoop.
Trio.
Banana Leaf Flan Sesame Caramel is a delightful creation that harmoniously blends sweet and savory elements. The flan, delicately infused with the subtle fragrance of banana leaves, boasts a silky texture that melts in your mouth. The sesame caramel adds a nutty richness, enhancing the overall experience with its glossy sheen and complex layers of flavor. Each bite reveals a gentle interplay of warmth and earthiness, making it a truly memorable dish that captures the essence of culinary artistry.
Chocolate con Menta chocolate mousse, cacao, mint. This delightful dessert presents a harmonious blend of rich chocolate and refreshing mint that dances on the palate. The mousse boasts a velvety texture, while the vibrant green mint adds a refreshing contrast, both visually and in flavor, creating a deliciously indulgent experience that lingers sweetly in the air.
Soft Serve Corn, caramel, rescoldo. This dish presents a delightful interplay of sweet and savory, with the creamy soft serve enveloping the palate in a whisper of summer corn. The golden caramel adds a luscious depth, while the rescoldo imparts a smoky undertone, creating a multi-dimensional experience that is both comforting and intriguing. Visually, the dish is a stunning contrast of vibrant yellows and deep, rich browns, inviting one to indulge in its enticing aroma before the first taste.
Tamal Bananas Foster, candies peanuts, barley. This dish is a delightful play on textures and flavors, with the soft, caramelized bananas providing a warm, sweet embrace, while the crunchy candied peanuts add a delightful contrast. The barley serves as a comforting, nutty backdrop, grounding the dish with its earthy tones, enhancing the overall experience with its subtle complexity that invites you to savor each bite.
Hibiscus Meringue Raspberry is a delightful dessert that captivates the senses with its vibrant hues and airy texture. The ethereal meringue, kissed with the floral notes of hibiscus, contrasts beautifully with the tartness of the raspberry, creating a harmonious balance. As you take a bite, the delicate crunch of the meringue gives way to a luscious, slightly tangy raspberry core, leaving a lingering sweetness that dances on the palate. The presentation is a feast for the eyes, with its radiant colors inviting you to indulge in this exquisite treat.
Tres leches cake. This indulgent dessert is a rich sponge cake soaked in three types of milk, creating a luscious, moist texture that melts in your mouth. As I took my first bite, I was enveloped by the creamy sweetness, accentuated by a hint of vanilla and a whisper of cinnamon. The cake’s delicate layers, adorned with a cloud of whipped cream, presented a beautiful contrast of white and pale yellow, inviting me to savor each velvety morsel.
The wines.
I was actually wary of Damien because in the pictures it looked “sauce light” (aka too much plain protein). But it turned out to be full of flavor and super well cooked, so pretty excellent.
