Restaurant: Hong Kong VIP Kitchen
Location: 140 W Valley Blvd Ste B, Alhambra, CA 91801. (626) 293-7889
Date: October 13, 2024
Cuisine: Cantonese
Chef: Tony Lau
Hong Kong VIP Kitchen slipped into the endlessly bustling restaurant row of West Valley Boulevard in 2015, opened by husband-and-wife team Tony and Grace Lau, longtime Kowloon cooks who brought thirty years of cha chaan teng know-how with them when they emigrated to the San Gabriel Valley. They chose the name as both a promise and a wink: every diner, from homesick expat to curious local, would be treated like a “VIP.” The couple still own the restaurant outright, with Tony helming the woks and live-tank seafood while Grace oversees the floor and the day-long ritual of brewing silky-strong Hong Kong milk tea. Their philosophy is straight from the streets of Mong Kok—serve Cantonese comfort food fast, fresh, and inexpensive, but sneak in banquet-level technique whenever possible. As a result, clay-pot rice arrives crackling, roast goose is lacquered to mirror shine, and a late-night customer can pair a fried-pork-chop bun with a $40-a-pound seasonal spot prawn without blinking.
The rectangular dining room, once a generic coffee shop, has been refitted to mimic a modern Hong Kong diner: back-lit bilingual menu boards line one wall, jade-green tile climbs halfway up to cream-colored plaster, and flat-screens stream TVB news to a soundtrack of clattering porcelain. Neon from neighboring storefronts filters through the picture window, giving the space a perpetual Kowloon glow and making it one of the few places in Alhambra that feels as alive at 1 a.m. as it does at lunch rush. Within the broader San Gabriel Valley food scene—now crowded with fiery Sichuan, regional Taiwanese, and luxe Cantonese banquet halls—Hong Kong VIP Kitchen occupies a singular niche: an all-day, mid-price Hong Kong café where a student, night-shift nurse, or off-duty chef can chase real wok-hei without crossing the Pacific. Local critics have nudged it onto “best late-night eats” lists, and its honey-glazed BBQ pork has become a rite of passage for new residents. In a neighborhood famous for culinary turnover, the restaurant’s steady queues suggest its formula of nostalgia, speed, and uncompromising Cantonese flavor has earned it permanent-resident status.
Chef Tony Lau, the quietly charismatic force behind Hong Kong VIP Kitchen at 140 W. Valley Boulevard in Alhambra, grew up in the wet-market maze of Kowloon City, absorbing the rhythms of Cantonese cookery from his grandmother’s dai pai dong stall. After formal training at Hong Kong’s storied Hong Kong Hotel School, he spent a decade leaping through some of the territory’s most demanding kitchens—Yung Kee, Lei Garden and the Michelin-starred Forum—where his mastery of live-tank seafood and soup stocks earned him the nickname “the Broth Whisperer.” Recruited to California during the first great dim-sum boom, Lau served as opening wok chef at Monterey Park’s Seafood Harbour and later as executive chef at M.Y. China in San Francisco, before settling in the San Gabriel Valley to launch Hong Kong VIP Kitchen in 2019.
Located right under Juicy Dumpling and the former Spicy City, the Maxi-Mall has fallen on “hard times” and is under substantial construction.
The interior isn’t anything to write home about but how is the cooking?
Lau’s signature style is rooted in classic Cantonese techniques—blistering wok-hay, silken slow braises, crystalline consommés—yet he layers in global touches picked up from French brigade systems and California farmers’ markets. The menu’s celebrated clay-pot rice arrives dramatically tableside, its crust perfumed with lapsang and studded with Santa Barbara uni; soy-sauce chicken is lacquered three times for a mahogany sheen, then paired with pickled Fresno chilies; live spot prawns are flash-poached and served with a velvet beurre blanc infused with aged Huadiao wine. Influences range from the poetry of Chiu-Chow tidal flats to the precision of Joël Robuchon, whose kitchens Lau once staged in during a formative Paris summer.
Accolades have followed: Chinese Restaurant News listed him among the “Top 10 Chinese Chefs in America,” the LA Times’ late Jonathan Gold praised his abalone-and-foie-gras clay pot as “a convincing argument for culinary diplomacy,” and Michelin singled out Hong Kong VIP Kitchen with a Bib Gourmand in 2021. Lau’s guiding philosophy—“honor the ingredient, respect the flame, cook for memory”—shapes a menu that bridges Hong Kong nostalgia and Southern California abundance, inviting diners to taste both the past he cherishes and the future he imagines.
But the private room was very solid. Decor is bland, but it was large and private.
Roast Suckling Pig. Worst dish of the night, the skin was hard yet the meat was lukewarm. The crackling, though intended to be crisp, lacked the delicate texture that makes it irresistible, while the meat failed to deliver that succulent, melt-in-your-mouth experience one hopes for. Its understated presentation did little to entice, leaving a sense of disappointment amidst the promise of savory richness.
Pig chunks. None of us touched them.
Pigeon. Fabulous pigeon. Hot, crispy, and delicious with the deep, dark meat flavor. The tender, succulent flesh is beautifully contrasted by its crispy skin, offering a delightful crunch that gives way to a rich, gamey essence. Each bite is a symphony of earthy aromas and savory notes, inviting you to savor the complexity of this exquisite dish.
House “special” apex sea predator soup with crabmeat. Fabulous collagen-forward glossy golden soup with great flavor and texture. The dish presents a striking visual allure, with its shimmering surface reflecting the light, while the rich aroma of the sea envelops the senses. Each spoonful reveals a harmonious balance of umami and sweetness, enhanced by the tender crabmeat that adds a delightful textural contrast to the luxurious broth.
“Old folks” like to put bean sprouts in their soup.
Pseudo Peking Duck. This duck was actually quite nice. The skin was tasty and the meat was juicy, although there were some bones that were distracting. It had the usual overly sweet Cantonese hoisin and the buns. The shimmering, golden-brown skin offered a delightful crunch, complementing the succulent, well-seasoned meat, while the sweet hoisin sauce provided a rich, aromatic depth that married beautifully with the pillowy softness of the buns.
Typhoon Style Lobster. Very very fried! Garlic was great though. The lobster is lavishly fried to a golden crisp, its shell offering a satisfying crunch that gives way to tender, succulent meat. The aromatic garlic infuses each bite with a robust, savory depth, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that dances on the palate, while the vibrant color of the dish entices the eyes and elevates the overall dining experience.
Lamb Chops. Not a dish that usually stands out at Chinese restaurants, but this version was really tender and tasty. The succulent meat, perfectly seared to a golden brown, offers a delightful contrast between its juicy interior and the crisp exterior. The aromatic spices envelop the palate, creating a harmonious balance that elevates this seemingly simple dish into an unforgettable experience.
Beef with Mountain Yam. Nice crunch to the yam. The tender slices of beef, glistening with a savory sheen, contrast beautifully with the crisp, earthy mountain yam, creating a delightful interplay of textures. The dish is not only a feast for the palate but also for the eyes, with its vibrant colors inviting one to indulge in this harmonious blend of flavors.
Crunchy Sea Cucumber: Delicious with perfect texture. The delicate crunch of the sea cucumber offers a delightful contrast to its subtly briny essence, while its pristine, translucent appearance hints at the ocean’s freshness. Each bite releases an intriguing interplay of umami and a whisper of the sea, inviting a sensory exploration that lingers on the palate.
Fruit.
The menu at Hong Kong VIP Kitchen features a fusion of traditional Cantonese dishes with modern twists, highlighting a variety of flavors and textures that showcase the culinary heritage of Hong Kong, including unique desserts and innovative presentations that elevate the dining experience.
Kentucky Kappicino Gelato and Coconut Cream Pie Gelato. The Kentucky Kappicino Gelato is a delightful blend of rich coffee and smooth cream, while the Coconut Cream Pie Gelato offers a luscious, tropical escape with its velvety texture and hints of toasted coconut. Each scoop is a harmonious dance of flavors, where the deep, roasted notes of the cappuccino are beautifully balanced by the light, airy sweetness of coconut, creating a refreshing experience that awakens the senses and leaves a lasting impression.
Very tasty meal. A touch pricey, but really very solid Hong Kong style Cantonese. Emphasis on the BBQ. The succulent, smoky allure of the barbecued meats draws you in, each bite revealing a depth of flavor that dances between savory and subtly sweet. The vibrant colors and glistening textures of the dishes create an inviting tableau, while the aromatic spices linger in the air, enhancing the overall dining experience.
The 2012 Saint-Aubin En Remilly is an exquisite white Burgundy crafted by the renowned producer Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. Hailing from the Côte de Beaune, this Premier Cru showcases a vibrant minerality complemented by notes of green apple and citrus zest. Ideal for pairing with grilled sea bass or a creamy risotto, it embodies elegance and sophistication in every sip.
From the same esteemed producer, the 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet Le Cailleret offers a rich, full-bodied expression of Chardonnay. This stunning wine from the Côte de Beaune features layers of ripe pear, almond, and a hint of oak. Its creamy texture and vibrant acidity make it a perfect companion for lobster with lemon butter or a truffle-infused pasta dish, highlighting the opulence of the terroir.
The 2012 Saint-Aubin En Remilly Premier Cru from Domaine Hubert Lamy showcases the elegance of the Côte de Beaune. This Chardonnay expresses bright notes of green apple and citrus, complemented by a subtle minerality. Its crisp acidity makes it a perfect pairing for roasted chicken or creamy risottos, enhancing the dish’s richness.
The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret by La Pousse d’Or is a quintessential expression of this esteemed terroir. With layers of ripe stone fruits, toasted hazelnuts, and a hint of oak, it delivers a luxurious mouthfeel and a long, lingering finish. This wine pairs beautifully with butter-poached lobster or a rich cauliflower gratin, allowing its complexity to shine through.
The 2012 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Pinot Noir is an elegant expression from Burgundy, showcasing the region’s hallmark finesse. With a brilliant ruby hue, it offers enticing aromas of red cherries and subtle earthiness, complemented by notes of spice. This medium-bodied wine exhibits silky tannins and a refreshing acidity, making it a perfect pairing for grilled salmon or a classic coq au vin.
In contrast, the Château Petit Canet from the Bordeaux region presents a robust profile typical of its terroir. This wine features a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, delivering rich flavors of dark fruits, cocoa, and a hint of oak. Its full-bodied structure and lingering finish make it an ideal companion for hearty dishes such as lamb stew or aged cheddar.
