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Archive for Indian

Fine Fitoor

Aug01

Restaurant: Fitoor

Location: 115 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401. (310) 829-7200

Date: February 7 & March 27, 2025

Cuisine: Indian

Chef: Pawan Mahendro

Rating: Very tasty and bold

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Fitoor opened on the western edge of downtown Santa Monica in late 2023 as the follow-up project from chef-patriarch Pawan Mahendro and his sons Nakul and Arjun, the family behind L.A.’s cult Indian gastropub Badmaash. After a decade of hearing Westsiders ask when they would bring their cooking closer to the beach, the trio took over a soaring former wine bar, christened it with the Urdu word for “burning obsession,” and installed three wood-fired tandoors that give both the room and the food a literal glow. The result is a restaurant whose mission is very Cal-Indian: marry the produce of the nearby farmers market with the smoke, pickles, and spice of the subcontinent, but do it in a way that feels as breezy as the ocean only a few blocks away.

The menu skews seasonal and shareable—think charred delicata squash finished with jaggery and ghee, whole Santa Barbara spot prawns bathed in green-mango achaar butter, and a rotating roster of market vegetables roasted under smoldering embers. Cocktails riff on the same dialogue, folding curry leaves into a gin sour or sandalwood into an agave-forward old-fashioned, while a concise natural-leaning wine list is built to tame chilies and smoke. Designer Bells & Whistles wrapped the 90-seat room in peacock-blue banquettes, hammered brass, and carved jali screens, striking a balance between Mumbai glam and coastal California ease; a sidewalk patio pulls in salt air and sunset light.

In a city where most contemporary Indian cooking had clustered east of the 405, Fitoor immediately reshaped the Westside conversation. Early raves from the Los Angeles Times and Eater positioned it as both a destination restaurant and a neighborhood hangout, proving that Indian flavors can be plated with the same produce-driven finesse—and served in the same design-forward setting—as any of Santa Monica’s coastal Mediterranean or New-American hotspots. Within months it became a catalytic address, coaxing diners, chefs, and cocktail pros alike to see Indian cuisine not as a late-night craving but as one of L.A.’s most vibrant, modern, and versatile food languages.

Chef Pawan Mahendro, the culinary patriarch behind the Mahendro family’s growing Los Angeles empire, now presides over the stoves at Fitoor in Santa Monica. Born in Amritsar, he earned his stripes in India’s luxury-hotel circuit—stints at Oberoi properties and the Taj Group—before emigrating to Toronto, where he helmed the beloved Copper Chimney and later opened his own place, Chef of India. In 2013 he joined his sons Nakul and Arjun to launch Badmaash in downtown L.A., a boundary-pushing Punjabi gastropub that landed on the Los Angeles Times “101 Best” list for multiple years and helped redefine modern Indian cooking in Southern California. Fitoor, which opened in 2023 a few blocks from the Pacific, is the family’s most ambitious dining room yet and gives Pawan a dedicated stage for the refined techniques he has been honing for nearly five decades.

Mahendro’s signature style lies at the intersection of classic North-Indian flavors and the ingredient-driven ethos of coastal California. At Fitoor that translates to Santa Barbara spot prawns quickly kissed in the tandoor and glossed with chile-garlic ghee, lamb nalli nihari slow-braised over mesquite, and delicate vegetable dishes that pivot with the Santa Monica farmers’ market. His influences range from the street-food vendors of Old Delhi to the exacting French brigade system he studied in hotel school; the result is food that feels both emotionally familiar and quietly technical. Eater L.A. has already named Fitoor one of the city’s “Most Anticipated” openings, and local critics routinely single out Mahendro’s sauces and stocks—built on long, layered reductions—for particular praise.

Guiding the menu is a simple philosophy the chef sums up as “tradition, obsession, and California sunshine.” Tradition supplies the canon: time-honored garam masalas hand-ground each morning and breads stretched to order against the walls of a clay oven. Obsession is the relentless pursuit of depth—tasting every batch of makhani sauce until the fenugreek hum is perfectly calibrated, or refusing to send out a biryani until the rice grains steam into distinct, perfumed strands. And California sunshine means cooking with the immediacy of place: pristine produce, sustainable seafood, grass-fed meats, and a respect for seasonality that keeps the menu in constant, playful motion. In Mahendro’s hands, Fitoor becomes less a restaurant than a love letter—to India, to his adopted coast, and to the restless, joyful act of cooking itself.


House space.

The menu.

The Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois is a refined Champagne from the renowned Épernay region, crafted with a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes. The 2012 vintage showcases a unique depth and complexity, with notes of toasted brioche, ripe apple, and subtle hints of spice. This elegant sparkling wine pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly oysters or grilled fish, enhancing the meal with its fine bubbles and crisp acidity.

From the iconic house of Billecart-Salmon, this Champagne reflects the terroir of the Champagne region, with a focus on traditional methods and minimal intervention. The oak aging adds a layer of richness, making it a perfect companion for rich cheeses and charcuterie, elevating your dining experience with its harmonious balance and lingering finish.

Silken Yogurt Kebab: cream cheese, coriander chutney. Filled with cream cheese and super delicious. The delicate texture of the kebab melts in your mouth, while the vibrant coriander chutney adds a refreshing contrast, enhancing the dish’s rich creaminess. The interplay of flavors is both satisfying and subtle, inviting you to savor each exquisite bite.

Bombay Papdi Bhel: puffed rice, mint & dates chutney. Dry texture, crunchy, with a good flavor. The vibrant green of the mint chutney mingles beautifully with the golden hue of the puffed rice, creating a feast for the eyes. Each bite bursts with a delightful contrast of textures, the crispiness of the rice harmonizing with the luscious sweetness of the dates, while the mint adds a refreshing aroma that lingers on the palate.

Achari Paneer Tikka: pickle, olive tapenade. Delicious, but super rich and actually a little bit spicy. The vibrant hues of the marinated paneer contrast beautifully with the deep, earthy tones of the olive tapenade, creating a visually stunning dish. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of tangy, umami flavors, while the subtle heat lingers pleasantly on the palate, inviting another taste.

Tandoori Curry Leaf Prawns: curry leaf, tobiko, tempered buttermilk. Lovely. The foamy dairy was awesome too. The vibrant orange hue of the prawns captivates the eye, while the fragrant curry leaves impart a subtle earthiness. Each bite offers a delightful contrast of textures, from the crispy tobiko to the creamy buttermilk, creating a harmonious dance of flavors that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

Coastal Flame Scallops: Sri Lankan fish curry, black tobiko. Nice and clean. The scallops are perfectly seared, showcasing a delicate caramelization that enhances their natural sweetness, while the vibrant black tobiko adds a delightful crunch. The dish is elevated by the aromatic layers of the Sri Lankan fish curry, which imparts a subtle heat and earthy complexity, enveloping the palate in a harmonious embrace of bold flavors and textures.


Chicken Koliwada. Fried chicken poppers, chili dust.


Avocado Burrata Chaat. Avocado mixed with burrata cheese and Indian spices. Topped with nylon sev and mango and berry coulis.

Pulled Butter Chicken Kulcha: herb butter, micro greens. Naan with butter chicken — what’s not to like? The rich, unctuous flavor of the butter chicken melds seamlessly with the herbaceous notes of the butter, creating a delightful harmony that dances on the palate. The golden kulcha, perfectly crisp on the outside yet pillowy soft within, invites you to indulge in every savory bite, while the vibrant microgreens add a refreshing burst of color and freshness to the experience.


Truffle Mushroom Kulcha. Fluffy kulcha stuffed with cheese, savory mushrooms & earthy truffle.

The Piano di Montevergine Taurasi 2010 from Feudi di San Gregorio is a captivating expression of the Campania region. This Aglianico-based wine boasts deep, dark fruit aromas interwoven with notes of leather, spice, and hints of minerality. On the palate, it is robust yet refined, offering a velvety texture and well-integrated tannins, making it an excellent pairing for rich meats like braised lamb or aged cheeses.

This vintage reflects the terroir beautifully, showcasing the complexity and aging potential characteristic of Taurasi wines. With its structured profile and lingering finish, it invites a contemplative sip, ideal for savoring alongside hearty Italian dishes or a charcuterie board.

Kashmiri Gucchi Risotto: morel mushrooms, truffle oil. This risotto was to die for — super creamy. The rich, earthy aroma of the morel mushrooms intertwined beautifully with the luxurious truffle oil, creating a symphony of umami that lingered delightfully on the palate. Its velvety texture and vibrant color made every spoonful an indulgent experience, reminiscent of a warm embrace on a cool evening.

Alleppey Prawn & Fish Curry. Coconut, curry leaf. The dish presents a vibrant medley of flavors, where the richness of coconut envelops the tender prawns and fish, creating a harmonious balance. The fragrant curry leaves impart a subtle earthiness, while the dish’s enticing aroma evokes the warm embrace of coastal Indian cuisine. Each spoonful reveals a symphony of textures, from the silky sauce to the succulent seafood, making this a truly delightful experience for the palate.

The Curry itself had a bit of a Thai curry vibe. Quite lovely flavor actually.


Asado Branzino Filet. mint pesto, potato salli.

Traditional Chicken Seekh Masala: Onion tomato masala. Rich and delicious. Instead of the usual grilled chicken, this was spiced chicken kebab — even better. The vibrant hues of the masala envelop the tender kebabs, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate. Each bite reveals a harmonious balance of spices, with earthy undertones and a subtle smokiness that lingers delightfully, complemented by the sweet acidity of the onion-tomato base.

Lamb Shank Rogan Josh chili threads, micro greens, rogan. Very nice. The sauce was slightly thin though. The dish boasts a rich, earthy aroma, with the tender lamb shank enveloped in a vibrant, crimson-hued sauce that hints at the depth of spices within. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of warmth and complexity, complemented by the delicate crunch of microgreens and the subtle heat of chili threads, creating a delightful interplay of textures and flavors.


Peshawari Lamb Seekh Kebab. Minced lamb flavored with Peshawari spices, cooked in the tandoor and served with horseradish thecha, mint foam and yogurt onions.


Traditional Chicken Seekh Masala. Chicken kebabs served in an onion, tomato and cashew masala. Garnished with crumbled pistachio and cashews. *spicy*

Garlic Naan is a warm, pillowy flatbread infused with aromatic garlic, making it the perfect companion to any curry. The golden-brown crust is slightly crisp, giving way to a soft and chewy interior that carries a subtle hint of char. As you tear into it, the delightful fragrance of roasted garlic wafts through the air, inviting you to savor each bite. The gentle interplay of flavors, with the savory garlic notes balanced by a touch of buttery richness, creates a harmonious experience that elevates the entire meal.


Dessert menu.

Chocolate Nemesis. Orange mousse, jaggery ice cream. Really delicious and very soft. The velvety richness of the chocolate is beautifully complemented by the bright citrus notes of the orange mousse, creating a delightful contrast that dances on the palate. The jaggery ice cream adds a subtle caramel sweetness, enhancing the overall experience with its creamy texture and inviting warmth.

 


Overall, a pretty delicious place. Very updated and not as heavy as most Indian.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Westside Family Style
  2. Soy Sauce Mexican Chilies
  3. Happy Hibi
  4. Good Night at Good Alley
  5. Charming Chelsea
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Fitoor, Foodie Club, Indian, Indian fusion, Santa Monica

Eating Philly – Tiffin

Nov30

Restaurant: Tiffin Indian Cuisine

Location: 8080 Old York Rd, Elkins Park, PA 19027. (215) 635-9205

Date: November 23, 2015

Cuisine: Indian

Rating: solid Indian

_

Our annual ThanksGavin trip always begins with a big Wednesday night dinner out in Philly, but this year we were out a day early so there was a Tuesday bonus.

Tiffin is a local (to Elkins Park) Indian restaurant.

The usual kind of casual decor.

From my cellar: 2004 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese. 93 points. Again, sulphur evident on the nose, although with plenty of bright and acidic fruit beneath. It is delicate, clean, minerally and has tingly acids. Then it seems softer, more gentle, not so much substance, with lots of bright character. Good potential.

Chutney and sauces are included which is nice.

Cauliflower with a coconut sauce. Very nice.

Fried fish. Like fish and chips with black pepper.
 Samosas. Certainly a decent version of this classic.

A light creamy curry with potato balls (not unlike matzah balls in texture).

Saag. Creamed Indian spinach.

Chickpeas with a mild curry.

Shrimp curry. Again the slightly sweet goopy curry.

Tilapia with tomatoes and onions. One of the few without the smooth curry treatment.

2009 Bodegas Domeco de Jarauta Rioja Solar de Castro Vendimia Seleccionada. 89 points. Very healthy bright red, cherry and chocolate on the nose, great balance of concentrated but not overpowering fruit, tannins with good structure, giving it a long finish. Very yummy, great wine.

Chicken Tikka Masala. Dark meat. A credible version of this dish, but from the smooth and sweet school of Indian curries. Akbar’s is so much richer and more flavorful.

Chicken Tikka Masala. White meat.

Lamb in a coconut curry sauce. Again the sauce is very sweet with the spice blend being fairly mild and blended into the rich sauce.

Chicken Tikka. My uncle goes nuts over this “BBQ chicken.”

Bismatti rice.

Naan, plain and garlic.
 Galub jamun. Perfectly nice syrup soaked cheese/dough balls.

Overall, Tiffin was a good meal, and decent Indian. All the curries have that smooth, creamy, and sweet thing going on, which is common enough at Indian restaurants. They were pretty good too, this wasn’t like the tomato sauce boring Indian. But it was also just too sweet, without the intensity of “spice” (and I don’t mean heat) that better places have. Now, I’m sure a good bit of that is catering to the Americans, but still. The smooth, sweet, creamy thing made all the curries run together, even though their colors and flavor profiles technically varied.

Still, I fully enjoyed it.

For more Philly dining reviews click here.

Or check out the full ThanksGavin feasting series.

Related posts:

  1. Akbar – Curry not so Hurry
  2. Eating Saigon – Hoa Tuc
  3. All Things Akbar
  4. Deep South – Mandovi Goan Cuisine
  5. Eating Senigallia – Madonnina del Pescatore
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Chicken tikka masala, curry, Indian, Philadelphia, ThanksGavin, ThanksGavin 2015, Wine

Deep South – Mandovi Goan Cuisine

May01

Restaurant: Mandovi

Location: 150 S Sepulveda Blvd, El Segundo, CA 90245. (424) 220-7115

Date: April 23, 2015 & June 7, 2016

Cuisine: Goan Indian

Rating: Unusual and delicious Southern Indian flavors

_

A last minute Hedonist dinner provided the opportunity to check out Souther Indian cuisine, specifically that of Goa, a state in South West India on the Arabian Sea. It was controlled for many years by the Portuguese and its food represents a fusion of Portuguese and Indian influences.

The restaurant is located just past LAX in El Segundo.
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The room is crowded for lunch buffet.


The menu.

Papadum. On the table to start with tamarind and mint chutney.
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t

2012 Weingut Robert Weil Tradition Rheingau. 93 points. Minerality and applies and through a trifle of kerosene emerging. Mouth in good harmony acidity, spritzy ness and fruit. Lovely.

Mandovi Ferry Kheema Potato Chops (Goan). Mandovi river side snack stuffed ground lamb meat potato cakes. Like a potato patty stuffed with ground lamb. We made something like this on Passover!

2013 Von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Spätlese. MWF 92. Nice medium sweet Spatlese.

Mandovi Shrimp Peri Peri. Shrimp sauteed in a spicy Portuguese-inspired garlic and red chili sauce. Delicious and full of flavor.

From my cellar: 2000 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Auslese. 95 points. Really fabulous balanced and mature Auslese. Very sweet of course, but with a strong underlying minerality.

Chicken 65. Universally known as spicy fried chicken bites in ginger and garlic. Vaguely Chinese in style, but the spices are all Indian.


2007 Double Diamond (Schrader) Cabernet Sauvignon Amber Knolls Vineyard. 91 points. Great Cali NC cab with plenty of fruit, both on the nose and palate. Nice complexity with balance between heat, tannins and acidity.

Mandovi Shrimp Okra Curry (Goan). Wonderful Portuguese-inspired delicacies, and tiger shrimp simmered in a mouth-watering coconut sauce with freshly ground spices.

Goan clam curry. Clams in a rich coconut curry broth. Delicious sauce.

Mandovi River Rava Fish Fry (Goan). Semolina crusted house spiced seasonal King Fish. Tasty but plagued by little bones.

2005 Andrew Murray Syrah Roasted Slope. VM 90. Ruby-red. Vibrantly perfumed and fresh on the nose, with raspberry and candied cherry aromas underscored by musky underbrush and baking spices. Clean and bright in the mouth, offering energetic red and dark berry flavors, silky tannins and building spiciness. Suave stuff, with impressive balance and clarity.

Gallina Chicken Cafreal (Goan). Goan mouth watering green and divine spiced grilled jerk Chicken. Amazingly tender and flavorful chicken coated in a green curry mix of various vegetables.

2006 Cielo Blackbird. Woodstock collection.

Lamb Vindaloo (Goan). Braised natural lamb in garlic, malt vinegar, and hot chili spices.

Goat Xacuti (Goan). Mouth-watering Goan specialty bone-in goat, cooked with sauteed ground spices and coconut.

2008 Salvalai Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. 89 points. Un amarone classique, avec des arômes de fruits noirs et de poussière. Saveur de terre avec un un peu de vanille.

Goan style pork curry. Sort of a pork ragu, and not my favorite dish of the night.
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Special traditional Crab Currey Xen Xen. The curry itself was a delicious southern coconut curry. The problem was the spiky crab shell that wasn’t cracked. Any attempts to get into the meat invariable ended in injury!
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House special Lamb Chops. Delicious heavily seasoned lamb.

Saffron Rice. Basmati rice, pot sealed, saffron aroma.

Goat Biryani. Authentic Awadhi bone on goat biryani, aromatic spices, basmati rice, and side raita.


Raita. Made of Yogurt , cucumber and Cilantro.

Garlic naan.

Goan Bibinca (Goan). Authentic Goan delight of multi-layared castor sugar and coconut milk. Sort of a cake like thing.

Gulab Jamun. Warm milk dumplings in rose-flavoured sugar syrup. Delicious cheese/dough balls. Oh, so sweet!

Almond Rice Kheer. Classic Indian rice pudding with hint of elaichi dry fruits and nuts. Too soupy.

Kesari Rasmalai. Soft poached homemade cheese dumplings in a saffron-flavoured sweeten reduced milk. Delicious sweet cheese. Like a Sicilian ricotta dessert.

Pista Orange Kulfi. Chef special signature, rich, creamy orange and pistachio-flavored ice cream served in an orange rind. These were amazing with a richness and a strong orange/mango flavor.

Overall, this was a great little meal full of unusual and delicious flavors. Chef Avi (above) of Akbar Cuisine of India (Northern Indian) gives it his seal of approval!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

I also came here in June of 2016 for lunch, where in addition to the menu they run a “classic” Indian buffet.
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Here is the main section, including all the usual hits.
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Tandori chicken, butter chicken (Chicken Tikka Masala), Chicken Curry.
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Fried fish, various vegetarian curries.
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Potato curry, string beans, rice, fried vegetables, crispy bread.
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The “salad” bar, with fruit, and the chutneys and raita.
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The buffet comes with naan.
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My plate.

Related posts:

  1. Yojie – Deep Boiled Noodles!
  2. Mosaic of Food – Byzantine Cuisine
  3. The New Cal Cuisine: Rustic Canyon
  4. Akbar – Curry not so Hurry
  5. Jitlada – Fire in the Hole
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Goa, hedonists, Indian, LAX, Mandovi
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