Restaurant: Heroic Deli and Wine Bar [1, 2, 3, 4]
Location: 516 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401. (310) 490-0202
Date: April 28, 2021
Cuisine: Italian
Rating: 1982 is still going strong
My friend Jeffrey, owner of Heroic Italian, was trying to set up this 1982 Bordeaux dinner before the pandemic, but it ended up getting “postponed” for over a year!
We situated ourselves in their upstairs private room — where all three light bulbs again function.
a “measly” rose to start things out: 1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Rosé. 94 points. Another example of this era, the 1996 Dom Pérignon Rosé offers plenty of energy and tension, both signatures of the vintage. At the same time, though, the fruit never fills out, which tilts the balance to acidity and austerity. Frankly, I liked the 1996 more when it was younger. Today, the fruit has either begun to drop out or is simply less expressive. I look forward to checking in on the 1996 soon to see if this may have been a less than perfect example. Disgorged 2004. (Drink between 2015-2022)
Amuses.
Pig and Caviar Blini.
And a less porky version.
2015 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux. VM 93. Pale yellow. Subtly complex aromas of quinine, lemon, mint and crushed stone; even more minerally than the Monteé de Tonnerre. Offers the most inner-mouth tension by far to this point, showing a sharply chiseled quality to its grapefruit and mineral flavors. (“This site does great in warm years,” noted Raveneau, as the portion of the vineyard at the rather flat top of the lieu-dit faces slightly northeast.) Fined-grained, dry and classic, but with the richness of the vintage.
Frittata with Toum. The frittata was nice, but the toum (garlic paste) really took it up about 10 notches.
Grilled Roman artichokes with confit tomatoes. Really spectacular actual Roman artichokes pair very nicely with the sweet and tangy tomatoes.
1982 Haut-Brion. RP 95. Though having tasted the Haut-Brion 1982 on numerous occasions, it is still a divine Pessac-Léognan to cherish. Here at The Glasshouse restaurant, it has that lovely warm gravel on a summer’s day bouquet, brown autumn leaves, bay leaf and here= a slightly more conspicuous note of black olive than I have noticed in the past. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, again a little more diffuse than its fellow 1982 First Growths, but with just as much charm. If anything, it feels a little tighter and more backward than previous examples, perhaps suggesting that bottles of excellent provenance will last many years. It is a wonderful 1982 First Growth, not a pinnacle of the vintage, but disarmingly and utterly charming.
1982 Lafite Rothschild. RP 75-100. The 1982 Lafite possesses a dark, dense ruby/purple color with only a subtle lightening at the rim. Spectacular aromatics offer jammy cherry and black fruits intertwined with lead pencil, mineral, and smoky wood scents. Powerful for a Lafite, this wine unfolds to reveal extraordinary richness, purity, and overall symmetry in addition to stunning flavor depth and persistence. The finish lasts for nearly a minute. Plenty of tannin remains, and the wine displays a vibrancy and youthfulness that belie its 18 years of age. The modern day equivalent of Lafite-Rothschild’s immortal 1959, the 1982 will enjoy another 30-70 years of life! An amazing achievement! Anticipated maturity: 2007-2070.
Morel mushrooms and Polenta.
And then slices of black truffles.
From my cellar: 1982 Latour. RP 100. 1982 was a great vintage—relatively warm and prolific, producing wines of richness and depth. The 1982 Latour has a medium garnet-brick color and then pow!—it belts out powerful notes of star anise, dried roses, sandalwood and new leather with a core of kirsch, blackberry tart, dried mulberries and blackcurrant pastilles. Full-bodied, rich and spicy with bags of fruit and tons of savory fireworks, it finishes with epic persistence.
agavin: my wine of the night
1982 Château Margaux. RP 97-98. Consistently scoring between 98-100, the superb 1982 Margaux may be slightly bigger, bolder, and more masculine than vintages produced over the last 15-20 years. Its dark plum/purple color is followed by notes of melted tar intermixed with sweet cassis and floral underpinnings. Very full-bodied and dense for a Chateau Margaux, with a slight rusticity to the tannins, it boasts blockbuster power, richness, and impressive aromatics. It appears set for another 30-40 years of life.
agavin: sadly a bit flawed
Mushroom, foie gras and black truffle pasta. A light — but delicious — pasta.
1982 Ausone. RP 90-93. A pleasant surprise when I think of what proprietor Alain Vauthier has done over the last decade, the outstanding 1982 Ausone exhibits plenty of licorice, fruitcake, mineral, kirsch, and black fruit characteristics. Medium-bodied and elegant with a touch of austerity at the finish, it should be consumed over the next 10 years.
1982 L’Evangile. RP 98. A blockbuster, dark plum/garnet-colored wine, the 1982 L’Evangile reveals a decadent, extravagantly rich nose of caramelized fruit, plum, licorice, smoked meats, and toffee. This opulent, full-bodied Pomerol caresses the palate with layers and layers of glycerin and fruit. The tannin is barely noticeable in this massive, rich, gorgeous effort. The complexity of the nose alone is worth a special admission price. It is close to full maturity, and is capable of lasting another 20-25 years.
Cioppino. Delicious rich tomato and garlic broth with various fresh seafood.
Garlic bread.
And then more toum, which when smeared on the bread and soaked in the sauce was incredible. Perhaps some might consider it a bit much for wine, but I enjoyed.
Toum and another tangy herby sauce.
1982 Mouton Rothschild. RP 100. Medium brick in color, the nose of the 1982 Mouton Rothschild is a little closed and sluggish to begin, offering earthy, cigar box, iron ore, star anise and dusty soil notes with a fruit core of kirsch, dried mulberries, blackcurrant pastilles, figs and prunes emerging after a few minutes. The palate remains a blockbuster—full-bodied, rich, opulently accented and unquestionably hedonic, possessing a mid-palate that is jam-packed with notions of red and black fruit preserves. The satiny texture/ripeness of tannins is simply incredible! It delivers a very long licorice-laced finish.
1982 Trotanoy. RP 96. Tasted at the Trotanoy dinner at Sketch in London. This bottle of 1982 Trotanoy repeats the performance of the one served at Zachys 1982 dinner in Hong Kong. It has a wonderful Merlot-scented bouquet that is floral and exuberant, though intriguingly it develops more Cabernet Franc/meaty aromas with continued aeration. It becomes rounded and sensual with roasted chestnuts emerging with time. The palate has a sweet entry, as one would expect for this vintage. It is plush, smooth and rounded in the mouth with dark plum and mulberry notes, a saline tincture and that chestnut motif continuing right to the youthful finish. After 30 years, this still has many years ahead. Tasted September 2012.
Meat feast platter (caveman mode). A pile of various meats, sausages, and a few veggies.
Showing the bone who’s boss.
Heroic Deli carries my own line of world class artistinal gelato.
Double Mint Oreo — Base made with Fresh Spring Mint infused milk and then laced with Crushed Mint Oreo Thins and Chopped Valrhona 70% Chocolate! — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — lovely strong mint flavor and color is all natural — #SweetMilkGelato #gelato #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #dessertgasm #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #mint #valrhona #chocolate #oreo
Cioccolato Fondente Ruby Stracciatella Gelato — My most advanced super-dark chocolate formulation, squeezing the most chocolate humanly possible into a dairy gelato with a blend of 70% Cocoa Valrhona and 100% Callebaut Cocoa Mass — Then I melted Callebaut Ruby Chocolate stripes throughout — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato — #dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #chocolate #valrhona #Callebaut #Ruby
An awesome dinner indeed. Most of the wines showed great, particularly the Latour, alas the Margaux was flawed. Still, when in good condition the 1982 Bordeaux are drinking impeccably.