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Archive for marea

Marea Beverly Hills

Aug10

Restaurant: Marea

Location: 430 N Camden Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. *unknown*

Date: March 6 & May 12, 2025

Cuisine: Coastal Italian

Chef: Sofia Morales

Rating: Fabulous

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Marea opened its doors on North Camden Drive in the summer of 2022, the brainchild of Milan-born restaurateur Luca D’Ambrosi and executive chef Sofia Morales, who met while staging on the Ligurian coast. Determined to translate the pleasure of an unhurried seaside lunch into an urban California setting, the partners took over a long-vacant art-deco storefront and stripped it down to the studs, installing a glass-fronted raw-bar, driftwood banquettes and a ceiling painted a soft Adriatic blue. Ownership remains tightly held—D’Ambrosi and Morales personally greet regulars most nights—and their menu stays loyal to the Italian idea that the sea should taste like itself: Santa Barbara uni folded into warm polenta, line-caught branzino roasted with nothing more than lemon leaves, and a short list of handmade pastas finished tableside in copper pans. The beverage program, run by sommelier Reggie Kim, leans into coastal Vermentino and skin-contact Malvasia while nodding to California with small-lot Santa Ynez whites.

In a neighborhood better known for power-steakhouses and monolithic luxury brands, Marea’s light-on-its-feet elegance has filled a conspicuous void, becoming a magnet for both studio executives who crave something brighter than a rib-eye and local families strolling the Golden Triangle. Critics from the L.A. Times and Eater LA praised its “sunlit Mediterranean confidence,” and the restaurant made the Michelin Guide’s “new discovery” list within its first year. Evening service hums beneath Murano glass pendants, yet the vibe stays relaxed—bare table tops, playlists that wander from Paolo Conte to Khruangbin, and open windows that let in the jasmine-scented canyon breeze. Marea has quickly staked a claim as Beverly Hills’ essential seafood counterpoint: rooted in Italian tradition, fueled by California produce, and animated by a hospitality style that makes even a Tuesday dinner feel like vacation.


Fancy transplant from New York.

Chef Sofia Morales brings a vividly coastal, cross-cultural voice to Marea Beverly Hills, the airy, marigold-toned outpost of the famed New York seafood temple. Born in Ensenada, Mexico, and raised between San Diego and Baja, Morales earned her culinary degree at the CIA in Hyde Park before honing finesse and discipline at Daniel Boulud’s kitchen in Manhattan, staging at Noma in Copenhagen, and later serving as chef de cuisine at Enrique Olvera’s Cosme. At Marea she synthesizes that résumé—French technique, Nordic seasonality, and modern Mexican vibrancy—with the restaurant’s Italian seafood DNA. Her crudo of kampachi with yuzu kosho aguachile and bronze-dye spaghetti alla chitarra tossed in a uni-jalapeño bottarga emulsion have quickly become signatures, earning her a 2023 James Beard “Rising Star” nomination and a spot on the Los Angeles Times’ “Chef Power List.”

Morales’s menu philosophy is rooted in “borderless waters”—treating the Pacific and Mediterranean as one continuous pantry while respecting the ecological realities of both. She sources hook-and-line local rockfish from Santa Barbara, partners with Baja oyster farms, and finishes plates with Ligurian olive oil or house-fermented chile vinegar depending on what each ingredient “asks for.” Influenced by her grandmother’s Baja surf-side grilling, René Redzepi’s micro-seasonal mindset, and the refined simplicity of Italian cucina di mare, she aims for “immaculate product, precise restraint, and one unexpected note that makes you look up from the table.” The result is a menu that feels both sun-bleached and metropolitan—a confident through-line that has helped the Beverly Hills location carve its own identity while honoring Marea’s original ethos of elegant, seafood-first hospitality.


The menu at Marea features a refined selection of seafood dishes, emphasizing fresh ingredients and Italian culinary techniques. Highlights include caviar, oysters, and a variety of crudi, as well as thoughtfully crafted antipasti that celebrate the flavors of the sea.


Marea also has an awesome private room, which we visited in May. 
The wines in March 2025.

A dozen kumamoto oysters served with marea mignonette & marea cocktail sauce. These briny gems are known for their sweet, buttery flavor and creamy texture, making them a delightful treat for any seafood lover.

Scampi on “Scampi”: langoustine tartare, crispy rice, garlic, lemon. This dish presents a delightful contrast of textures, with the tender tartare complemented by the crunch of the rice. Ricci: sea urchin, lardo, crostini. The richness of the lardo enhances the briny sea urchin, creating a luxurious mouthfeel. Sardina: sardine, tomato, eggplant, anchovy, pine nut toast. The combination of savory sardines and sweet tomato on a crunchy toast is both comforting and sophisticated. These were all great.

Bread.

CANNOLICCHIO features razor clam, manila clam, prosciutto, and fennel. The dish showcases a delightful balance of briny sweetness from the clams, complemented by the savory richness of prosciutto and the aromatic freshness of fennel, creating a harmonious blend of textures and flavors.

 

Scampi: Pacific langoustine, cucumber, chive. This dish showcases the delicate sweetness of the langoustine, complemented by the refreshing crunch of cucumber and the subtle onion notes of chive, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures.

SGOMBRO: mackerel, tomato, Castelvetrano, caper. This dish presents a delightful balance of rich, oily mackerel paired with the bright acidity of tomato and the briny pop of capers, all enhanced by the sweet, buttery notes of Castelvetrano olives. The vibrant colors and fresh ingredients make it as visually appealing as it is flavorful.

A full set of crudos: Scorfano — Rockfish, calamansi, pistachio. Spigola — Bass, almond crema, green almond, caviar. Ricciola — Baja kanpachi, strawberry, tarragon, fennel. Sgombro — Smoked mackerel, blackberry, lardo. Tonno — Yellowfin tuna, oyster crema, artichoke. Scampi — Pacific langoustine, cucumber, chive. Each dish presents a vibrant array of colors and textures, showcasing the freshness of the seafood paired with bright, complementary flavors that dance on the palate.

BRANZINO: sea bass tartare, pistachio, Calabrian chile, radish, chive. This dish presents a delightful combination of flavors and textures, with the buttery fish complemented by the crunch of pistachios and the heat of chiles. The vibrant colors and fresh ingredients make it as visually appealing as it is delicious.

Fusilli: red wine-braised octopus and bone marrow. Lots of deep flavor and good chew, with the octopus offering a tender yet slightly firm bite, complemented by the rich, unctuous marrow that adds a luxurious depth to each twirl of pasta.

MARUBINI: ricotta-filled ravioli with cacio e pepe, tomato, basil, and pine nuts. The delicate pasta envelopes a creamy filling, while the cacio e pepe offers a delightful peppery kick. Nice, but not as amazing as the others.

RISOTTO AI FUNGHI features wild mushrooms, taleggio, and parmigiano. This amazing risotto boasts a creamy texture, with earthy mushroom flavors beautifully complemented by the rich, nutty cheese. A comforting dish that warms the soul.

Risotto alla Primavera — Spring vegetables, pancetta, parmigiano. This vibrant dish showcases a creamy texture, with the fresh crunch of seasonal vegetables beautifully complementing the savory richness of the pancetta and the nutty depth of the parmigiano. Each bite is a celebration of spring’s bounty.

CASARECCE: jumbo lump crab, sea urchin, basil, Calabrian chile. The nice texture is complemented by the rich sweetness of the crab and the briny depth of the sea urchin, creating a delightful harmony of flavors. The dish presents beautifully, with vibrant colors that invite you to indulge.

PAPPARDELLE: Dungeness crab, scallion, tarragon. Really great crab pasta, tons of buttery flavor. The pappardelle is perfectly al dente, allowing the rich, sweet crab to shine through, while the scallion and tarragon add a fresh, aromatic lift.

Mafaldine — Shrimp, garlic, lemon, parsley, mollica. This dish features delicate, ribbon-like pasta that beautifully captures the vibrant flavors of the shrimp and the brightness of the lemon. The combination of textures—from the tender shrimp to the crispy mollica—creates a delightful contrast that elevates each bite.

Spaghetti features Manila clam, baby leek, lemon, and parsley. This dish offers a delightful balance of briny sweetness from the clams, vibrant freshness from the leeks and parsley, and a zesty brightness from the lemon, all harmonizing beautifully with the al dente pasta.

Orecchiette — Duck leg ragu, brown butter, pea shoot. This dish features tender, ear-shaped pasta that perfectly cradles the rich, savory ragu, while the brown butter adds a nutty depth and the pea shoots offer a fresh, vibrant contrast. The combination is both comforting and sophisticated, showcasing the beauty of Italian cuisine.

ANATRA features pan-roasted duck breast accompanied by parsnip, endive, orange, and duck jus. The sweet jus beautifully complements the rich, tender duck, while the parsnip adds a creamy texture and the endive provides a crisp contrast. A harmonious balance of flavors and textures makes this dish truly memorable.

BISTECCA: grilled wagyu strip loin, bone marrow panzanella, braised lettuce, shallot. Very solid steak. The wagyu is beautifully marbled, delivering a rich, buttery flavor, while the bone marrow panzanella adds a delightful creaminess and texture contrast.

Tomahawk — Grilled 40 oz prime ribeye, little gem, bone marrow panzanella. This impressive cut boasts a rich, juicy flavor with a perfect char, while the panzanella adds a refreshing crunch that beautifully complements the meat’s tenderness.

Tunahawk — Bigeye tuna loin, cauliflower salsa rossa, choice of one side. This dish showcases a beautifully seared tuna, its rich, buttery texture perfectly complemented by the vibrant, tangy salsa rossa. The combination is not only visually striking but also a delightful balance of flavors that excites the palate.

Sogliola — Pan-seared wild Dover sole, choice of one side, limone. This dish showcases the delicate, flaky texture of the fish, perfectly complemented by the bright acidity of lemon. The simplicity of the preparation allows the natural flavors to shine through, making it a delightful choice for seafood lovers.

CAVOLFIORE: flowering cauliflower, chile, bottarga. This dish boasts a delightful balance of flavors, with the heat of the chile complementing the umami richness of the bottarga. The texture is both tender and slightly crisp, making it a satisfying experience.

Topinambur — Sunchoke, mostarda, spinach. This dish beautifully balances the earthy sweetness of the sunchoke with the tangy brightness of the mostarda, while the spinach adds a vibrant green touch. The textures are delightful, with the sunchoke offering a tender bite that complements the smoothness of the mostarda.

Carciofi alla Giudia — Artichoke, anchovy, oregano, parsley, mint. This Roman classic features artichokes that are fried to a golden crisp, offering a delightful contrast between the tender heart and the crunchy exterior. The vibrant herbs and anchovy add depth, making each bite a harmonious blend of flavors that celebrates the essence of Italian cuisine.

Asparago — Grilled asparagus, pistachio, meyer lemon. The tender, charred spears offer a delightful contrast to the crunchy pistachios, while the meyer lemon adds a bright, citrusy zing that elevates the dish beautifully.

Patate — Potato, mimolette, caper. This dish features tender, creamy potatoes that beautifully complement the nutty richness of mimolette, while the capers add a delightful briny contrast. The combination creates a harmonious balance of flavors and textures that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Piselli a Shiocco — Snap pea, chile, bottarga, mint. This vibrant dish showcases the sweetness of fresh snap peas, perfectly complemented by the umami of bottarga and a hint of heat from the chile. The bright mint adds a refreshing finish, making it a delightful balance of flavors and textures.


Desert menu.

Coffee martini is a delightful blend of rich espresso and smooth vodka, creating a perfect balance of bold coffee flavor and a hint of sweetness. Its velvety texture and elegant presentation make it an ideal choice for those seeking a sophisticated pick-me-up.

Presented with an artful flourish, the dish known as Cheese Tasting Plate captivates the senses with its harmonious array of textures and flavors. A delicate pale yellow cheese, its creamy consistency invitingly soft, sits alongside a vibrant orange-hued cheddar, its sharpness balanced by a hint of sweetness. Golden honeycomb glistens like sunlit jewels, its floral notes wafting delicately through the air, complemented by the earthy crunch of walnuts that ground the composition. Tiny green grapes burst with refreshing juiciness, while a small silver cup cradles a velvety, well-aged cheese spread adorned with edible flowers, offering a subtle umami depth that lingers on the palate. Each element, a testament to culinary artistry, invites exploration and indulgence in a symphony of flavors.

BOMBOLONI: doughnuts filled with lemon ricotta cream, dusted with cinnamon sugar, and drizzled with chocolate fudge. These delightful treats boast a light, airy texture that contrasts beautifully with the creamy filling, while the cinnamon sugar adds a warm sweetness, making them utterly irresistible.

TIRAMISU: mascarpone mousse, espresso sabayon, chocolate crumble, mascarpone gelato. Not conventional, but very good. This dessert offers a delightful contrast of creamy textures and rich coffee flavors, all beautifully layered and finished with a hint of chocolate crunch.

NOCE DI COCCO features a delightful combination of meringue, coconut, passion fruit, pineapple, and rum. This dessert offers a light, airy texture with tropical flavors that dance on the palate, creating a vibrant and refreshing experience.

Gelato is a delightful Italian frozen dessert that captivates with its creamy texture and intense flavors. Unlike traditional ice cream, gelato is churned at a slower speed, resulting in a denser, silkier consistency that allows the vibrant flavors to shine. Each scoop is a luscious experience, often showcasing seasonal ingredients that reflect the region’s bounty.


Expensive, but some really great food. Unusual heavy seafood focus, too.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

 


Marea has an awesome private room.

The restaurant’s understated elegance is reflected in the meticulous arrangement of crystal wine glasses, their clarity catching the soft ambient light, setting a refined yet inviting tone for an unforgettable culinary journey.

The menu at Marea showcases an exquisite selection of seafood dishes, emphasizing fresh ingredients and refined Italian flavors. Highlights include caviar, oysters, and a variety of antipasti, alongside beautifully crafted pasta and crudo preparations that celebrate the ocean’s bounty.


The menu.

The Pierre Peters Champagne, a stunning Blanc de Blancs from the Côte de Blancs region, showcases the elegance of the 2016 vintage. With its bright acidity and fine bubbles, this wine offers a bouquet of citrus and white flowers, complemented by a hint of brioche. Ideal for pairing with oysters or a delicate seafood dish, it elevates any celebration with its finesse and complexity.

The Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Premier Cru from the 2017 vintage presents a rich yet refreshing profile, typical of the Burgundy region. This Chardonnay boasts notes of ripe stone fruits, hazelnuts, and a subtle minerality, making it a versatile companion for roasted chicken or creamy pasta dishes. Its balanced structure invites you to savor each sip, revealing layers of flavor with every taste.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin Premier Cru “En Remilly” from Jean-Claude Ramonet offers a delightful expression of its terroir, showcasing bright acidity and notes of citrus and green apple, complemented by a mineral backbone. This elegant white Burgundy pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a creamy risotto.

The 2010 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Bonneau du Martray is a magnificent white wine that reveals layers of complexity, with rich flavors of ripe pear, toasted almonds, and a hint of oak. Its full-bodied structure and vibrant acidity make it an exceptional companion for rich dishes like lobster thermidor or roasted chicken with herbs.

From the esteemed Côte-Rôtie region, the 1970 La Moulin offers a stunning expression of Syrah, showcasing dark fruit, black olive, and subtle smoky notes. Its age has imparted a velvety texture and complex layers of dried herbs and leather, making it a perfect companion for roasted lamb or a hearty beef stew.

The second 1970 La Moulin bottle presents an intriguing balance of fruit and earthiness, with hints of graphite and wildflowers emerging. The tannins are beautifully integrated, providing a luxurious mouthfeel that complements rich dishes like duck confit or grilled game meats, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The 1970 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline is a stunning expression of the Northern Rhône, showcasing the elegance of Syrah. With its deep garnet hue, it unfolds aromas of dark fruits, smoked meat, and a hint of violet. On the palate, it offers a harmonious balance of ripe tannins and vibrant acidity, making it an exceptional pairing for grilled lamb or a rich, herb-crusted beef dish.

The 1971 vintage of Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline presents a slightly more mature profile, revealing complex layers of dried cherries, black olives, and a touch of aged leather. Its silky texture and refined structure allow it to shine alongside roasted duck or a wild mushroom risotto, enhancing the earthy flavors of the dish.

The 1974 Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin is a stunning example of Northern Rhône Syrah, showcasing deep, complex aromas of dark fruits, smoke, and savory herbs. Its velvety tannins and vibrant acidity make it a perfect companion to rich lamb dishes or a charcuterie board featuring aged cheeses.

The 1977 vintage of Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin offers a remarkable bouquet of dried cherries, leather, and earthy undertones, reflecting the elegance of its terroir. This wine’s silky texture and lingering finish pair effortlessly with grilled meats or a hearty beef stew, enhancing the meal’s depth.

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Moulin presents a fascinating evolution, revealing notes of blackcurrant, graphite, and subtle spice. Its refined structure and balanced acidity make it an ideal match for game meats or mushroom risotto,

The 1971 Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal is a breathtaking expression of the Northern Rhône, showcasing deep, complex aromas of dark fruit, leather, and subtle spice. Its silky tannins and vibrant acidity harmonize beautifully, making it a perfect companion for a rich beef stew or grilled lamb.

The 1980 vintage of Côte-Rôtie, also from E. Guigal, presents a more evolved profile, with notes of dried herbs, plum, and a hint of smokiness. The elegance and depth of flavor make it an exquisite pairing with game dishes or a charcuterie board featuring aged cheeses.

The 1981 Côte-Rôtie continues the legacy of the previous bottles, offering luscious dark cherry, earthy undertones, and a touch of oak. This vintage is well-structured and pairs wonderfully with hearty dishes like coq au vin

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline is a stunning expression of the Rhône Valley, showcasing a blend of Syrah and Viognier. This vintage reveals deep, complex aromas of blackberries, smoked meat, and hints of violets, complemented by a silky texture that enhances its elegance. It pairs beautifully with grilled lamb or a rich duck confit, highlighting the wine’s earthy undertones.

The 1981 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline offers a slightly more mature profile, with savory notes of truffle and leather emerging alongside dark fruit and spice. This vintage displays a beautifully integrated tannin structure, providing a long, lingering finish. Ideal for pairing with hearty stews or aged cheeses, it brings out the wine’s complexity and depth.

<pTogether, these Côte-Rôties from La Mouline epitomize the artistry of the

The 1981 La Mouline from Côte-Rôtie is a stunning example of Syrah’s elegance, showcasing deep, dark fruit flavors intertwined with hints of smoke and leather. With its velvety tannins and a long, complex finish, this wine pairs beautifully with rich, slow-cooked lamb dishes or a decadent truffle risotto.

The 1983 La Mouline, also from Côte-Rôtie, offers a more robust profile, featuring concentrated notes of blackberries, plums, and a touch of pepper. Its powerful structure and vibrant acidity make it an excellent companion to grilled meats or hearty stews, highlighting its aging potential and complexity.

The 1981 and 1983 vintages reflect the exceptional terroir of Côte-Rôtie, presenting a delightful exploration of Syrah’s versatility, from the graceful finesse of the 198

The 1984 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline showcases the legendary character of this Northern Rhône region. With its deep garnet hue, it presents an enticing bouquet of blackberries, violets, and a hint of smoked meat. The wine’s full-bodied structure is complemented by velvety tannins and a long finish, making it an exquisite pairing for grilled lamb or a rich coq au vin.

The 1987 Côte-Rôtie from La Mouline offers a captivating profile, marked by ripe red fruits, spice, and a touch of garrigue. This vintage reveals a delightful balance of acidity and tannin, providing a silky mouthfeel. Its complexity makes it an excellent companion to dishes like duck confit or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the meal’s depth.

The 1984 La Mouline from E. Guigal, hailing from the renowned Côte-Rôtie region of France, showcases an elegant expression of Syrah blended with a touch of Viognier. This vintage is characterized by its complex aromas of dark fruits, black olive, and floral notes, underpinned by a silky texture and refined tannins. It pairs beautifully with rich dishes like coq au vin or a classic beef bourguignon.

The 1987 La Mouline, also from E. Guigal, offers a slightly warmer profile with ripe blackberry and plum flavors complemented by hints of spice and smoke. This vintage shows impressive balance and depth, making it an ideal companion to grilled lamb or a hearty ratatouille, enhancing the dish’s earthy flavors.

The 1980 La Landonne, another gem from E. Guigal, presents

The 1980 Côte-Rôtie from La Landonne offers a complex tapestry of aromas, with notes of dark berries, smoked meats, and a hint of black pepper. This vintage showcases the elegance and depth of the Rhône Valley, with a velvety texture and a long, satisfying finish. Ideal for pairing with grilled lamb or rich stews, it embodies the essence of classic Syrah.

The 1984 Côte-Rôtie, also from La Landonne, presents a more mature profile, with tertiary notes of leather, tobacco, and dried herbs complementing the residual fruit. The tannins have softened beautifully, allowing for a harmonious balance between acidity and richness. This vintage pairs wonderfully with aged cheeses or a hearty beef bourguignon, making it a timeless choice for discerning palates.

The 1980 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie from E. Guigal showcases the elegance of the Northern Rhône, revealing rich notes of dark berries, leather, and a hint of tar. Its age has imparted a smoky complexity, making it a perfect companion for grilled lamb or a rich duck confit, enhancing its savory character.

The 1984 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie is a stunning expression of terroir, offering aromas of black cherry, violets, and a touch of spice. This vintage demonstrates a well-integrated acidity and soft tannins, ideal for pairing with hearty dishes like beef bourguignon or wild mushroom risotto, which complement its intricate layers.

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, with its robust structure and vibrant fruit, presents an enticing bouquet of dark plums, pepper, and earthiness.

The 1984 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie showcases an elegant balance between rich dark fruit and savory notes. Hailing from the Northern Rhône, this Syrah expresses complexity through layers of blackcurrant, leather, and hints of smokiness. Ideal for pairing with grilled lamb or robust stews, it offers a splendid dining experience.

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie presents a more mature profile, with secondary aromas of dried herbs and earthy undertones complementing its rich, ripe plum flavors. This vintage is a testament to the terroir of the Rhône, beautifully reflecting its character. Best enjoyed alongside rich game dishes or aged cheeses, it promises a harmonious match.

The 1986 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie features a vibrant acidity that accentuates its dark fruit core and peppery finish. This vintage reveals nuances of spice and

The 1985 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, produced by the esteemed E. Guigal in the northern Rhône Valley, showcases a remarkable vintage with its deep garnet hue and complex aromas of dark fruits, smoke, and spices. This Syrah-based wine is full-bodied and elegantly structured, offering velvety tannins and a long, savory finish, making it an exquisite pairing for rich dishes like braised lamb or beef Wellington.

The 1986 La Landonne Côte-Rôtie, also crafted by E. Guigal, presents a slightly more mature profile, revealing layers of black cherry, leather, and earthy notes. This vintage balances power and finesse, with a silky texture that complements its ripe tannins. Ideal for pairing with hearty game dishes or aged cheeses, it embodies the artistry of Côte-Rôtie wines.


All the La La’s!

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By: agavin
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Tagged as: Foodie Club, la la, marea, Wine

Eating NY – Marea

Aug16

Restaurant: Marea

Location: 240 Central Park S, New York, NY 10019. (212) 582-5100

Date: July 2, 2017

Cuisine: Italian

Rating: Great “fancy” Italian

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My family loves Italian food and New York is famous for its Italian, so I figured we try a bunch at a bunch of different levels.

Marea is the modern style of fancy Italian, which some Italian-American lovers dismiss, but is actually fairly representative of high end (Michelin) restaurants in Italy. I know, I’ve eaten at plenty of them. And in fact, Marea has 2 stars itself.

The menu. We all went for the 4 course “deal.”

An amuse of sardine/anchovy and cheese on polenta.

They had a lot of very nice breads like this olive focaccia.

And since two groups ordered the whole fresh Branzino, the fish came out first to show off — just as they do in the Mediterranean.

2013 Azienda Agricola Bucci Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Villa Bucci. 91 points. I visited this winery 2 years ago. The nose was alive with saline-minerality and zesty citrus tones. On the palate, I found soft, lifted textures with tart citrus, spice and mineral tones. It finished fresh and lively.

Insalta. Sesonal greens, sherry dressing, almond, nectarine, parmigiano.

They have a lot of crudo al taglio on the menu, like this: Tonno. yellowfin tuna, oyster crema, crispy artichoke.

Scampi. Pacific Langoustine, murray river pink salt.

And my Assaggio di tre. From left to right: Scampi Pacific Langoustine, murray river pink salt. Passera. Long island fluke, stone fruit, almond, chive blossom. Dentice. Pacific snapper, lime coriander, crispy skin.

These were nice. I’ve decided that these “western sauces” are MUCH better on crudo (aka sashimi) than on sushi (like Sushi Gari). It doesn’t play well with the rice.

Polipo. grilled octopus, smoked potatoes, radish pickled red onions, chilies, tomato.

1999 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva. VM 90-93. Good ruby-red. Red plum, sweet spices, roast coffee, flowers and a loamy nuance on the open-knit nose. Then juicy and stylish in the mouth, combining peppery and soft red fruit qualities with a subtle touch of oaky sweetness. Not a hugely concentrated wine and surprisingly forward, finishing with suave, spreading tannins and an almost sweet quality. There’s nothing wrong with this balanced wine, although I would have expected a little more complexity and depth; I wonder if the production of the 130-year anniversary bottling in the same vintage caused this Riserva to be less concentrated and deep than it might otherwise have been. Readers should take note that 1999 in Taurasi was characterized by a cool growing season, and thus was nothing like the outstanding ’99 vintage in Montalcino or Barolo. Still, I always felt that 1999 in Campania was unjustly overlooked by wine critics at the time, and I think that the wines are starting to show well now.

Twisted trofi pasta with pomodoro sauce. Great texture.

My son’s lizard toys get their own plate of parmesan.

Gnocchetti. Gulf shrimp, chillies, rosemary. First there was Gnocci, then there was gnocchetti.

Spaghetti neri. Seppia, ink, mussels, fresh chili, saffron.

Pansotti. Lamb, bagna cauda, english peas. How can you go wrong with fresh made pasta stuffed with meat and covered in butter?

Rosotto funghi. Wild mushrooms, parmigiano. Perfect creamy texture.

Branzino. Here comes the fish, perfectly filleted.

With sauces.

Brodetto di pesce. Adriatic seafood soup, clams, langoustine, scallop, prawns, bass.

With the broth. The flavor was great and the seafood fresh. It wasn’t the strongest or richest broth, channeling a lighter more delicate vibe rather than the more southern heavy garlic/tomato thing.

Tagliata. Grilled creekstone 50-day dry aged sirloin. braised romaine.

Fingerling potatoes, rosemary.

Wild arugula and lemon.

Market beans, romesco, almonds.

Wild mushrooms, savory.

Dolce.

Trio of sorbetti. Cherry amaretto, strawberry balsamic, blackberry lemon.

Chocolate gelato.

Affogato. vanilla gelato, espresso, amaro, almond sbrisolona. I haven’t seen affogato (mostly) straight up on a 2 star menu before.

Semifreddo tropicale. coconut semifreddo, passion fruit, kiwi, mango, basil.

With a gooey center! This dessert was an 11 by my standards. A perfect expression of coconut and bright tropical fruits. I will make a coconut gelato with almonds and passionfruit coulis to riff off of it.

Cioccolato. domori chocolate, white chocolate ganache, almond stracciatella gelato.

Petite fours. Raspberry pate de fruit.

Mini tiramisu.

My son likes dressing up now.

Overall, Marea was very good. Execution was top notch across the board. Pastas were amazing. Interesting that it’s Adriatic in style, most closely resembling these places I’ve eaten at on Italy’s Adriatic coast: Madonnia del Pescatore and La Frasca. The format is a bit different more American at Marea, with fewer larger courses. I, of course (pun intended), prefer the more smaller dish format. Marea plays it fairly safe too, avoiding some of the weirder (to American taste) choices you might get in Italy. But it is quite Italian.

Service was top notch. Our server was simultaneously very New York, punky, not explicitly Italian, and excellent. Very nice, knowledgable, responsive, accommodating, etc.

The wine list was good and only slightly high. Clientele was more staid and there were quite a number of wealthy Chinese.

For more New York dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Eating Senigallia – Madonnina del Pescatore
  2. Eating Florence – Gelateria Santa Trinita
  3. Eating Milano Marittima – Palace Hotel Breakfast
  4. Eating Tuscany – Boar at Home
  5. Eating NY – Eat
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: eating_new_york, Italian cuisine, marea, New York, Wine
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