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Archive for Dave Beran

Bouchard Seline

Dec01

Restaurant: Seline

Location: Santa Monica, CA

Date: October 12, 2025

Cuisine: Mediterranean / French

Rating: Burgundy Bliss & Butter Mastery!

_

Some dinners are about innovation, pushing boundaries, deconstructing classics into their molecular components. And then there are dinners like this—a special Sage Society event at Seline, devoted entirely to the wines of Bouchard Père & Fils and the kind of classic French cooking that makes no apologies for its richness. This was butter-forward, sauce-driven French cuisine at its most unapologetic, paired with a vertical exploration of one of Burgundy’s most historic houses. No modernist foams, no tweezers, no apologies. Just pitch-perfect technique, luxurious ingredients, and wines that have been waiting decades for exactly this moment.

The Sage Society knows how to throw a wine dinner, and pairing Seline’s kitchen with Bouchard’s cellar was a stroke of genius. Seline, tucked away in Santa Monica, normally leans Mediterranean with modern flourishes, but for this evening they went full Burgundian—think beurre blanc, beurre monté, duck jus, red wine reductions, and enough cultured butter to make your cardiologist weep. The chef (whose work I’ve enjoyed before) clearly understands classical French technique, and when given the excuse to go all-in on traditional preparations, the results were stunning.

 

Bouchard Père & Fils needs little introduction to anyone who drinks Burgundy seriously. Founded in 1731, the house is one of the oldest in the region, with holdings that read like a greatest hits of Burgundy terroir: Corton-Charlemagne, Clos Vougeot, Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus, Chambertin. Tonight’s lineup spanned vintages from 1992 to 2020, showcasing both the house’s range and Burgundy’s ability to age with grace.

This was a special Sage Society Bouchard dinner—our menu for the night, showcasing classic French technique married to Burgundian wines.

In a soft amber hush, polished wood gleams beneath elegant script place cards and a constellation of fine-stemmed glasses, setting the stage for a meticulously paced meal.

The evening began with a scallop course that set the tone for everything to follow.

Scallop Quenelle with beurre blanc and caviar. Super delicious and a perfect white Burgundy pairing. I love the soft, almost ethereal texture—the quenelle melts on the tongue like an aerated cloud of scallop and cream. The beurre blanc is pitch perfect: enough acidity to cut the richness, enough butter to coat your palate in silk. The caviar adds precise saline pops that wake everything up.

Then came the fish course, paired with white Burgundies that showed both youth and maturity.

 

 

Salmon with chicken beurre monté. Very tender salmon—cooked just to that point where it’s still translucent at the center—and a REALLY RICH butter sauce. Delicious. The beurre monté is almost sinful in its concentration, clinging to the salmon like liquid gold. This is not health food, but paired with a great white Burg, it’s transcendent.

We opened Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault Genevrières 2020 and Meursault Perrières 2020, both Premier Crus showing Meursault’s signature richness and minerality. The Genevrières displayed generous stone fruit and hazelnut notes with bright acidity, while the Perrières leaned more mineral and tense—perfect foils for all that butter. Then came Bouchard Corton-Charlemagne 2000, a Grand Cru white showing how beautifully these wines age: honeyed, complex, with notes of roasted nuts and a steely backbone that kept it fresh despite two decades in bottle.

The meat courses began with pork, and this is where the evening’s theme—sauce, sauce, and more sauce—really hit its stride.

Pork Loin with pork jus. It was all about the sauce—again. The loin itself was tender and properly cooked, but the jus is what elevated it: deeply porky, concentrated, glossy with fat and gelatin. You could taste the hours of reduction in every spoonful.

Duck Breast with duck jus. More amazing high-fat sauce! The duck was cooked to perfect medium-rare, the skin crisped and rendered. But that jus—dark, unctuous, tasting of roasted duck bones and red wine—was pure sauce mastery. Neat rose-pink slices fanned across the plate, amber skin catching the light, while the velvety sauce pooled beneath.

Hanger Steak with red wine jus and potato pavé. Oh and more sauce. They really know sauces here. The steak was perfectly charred and juicy, the pavé crisp-edged and creamy within, but that red wine jus—reduced to the edge of intensity, glossy with marrow and butter—tied everything together. This is the kind of cooking that doesn’t apologize for being rich.

Parisian Gnocchi with mushroom and mushroom sauce. And in case you were worried, these were coated in butter! The gnocchi—made with choux pastry rather than potato—were pillowy and light despite being slicked with more butter. The mushroom sauce was earthy and deeply savory, umami layered on umami.

The red Burgundies came out in waves, each more impressive than the last. We started with Bouchard Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus 2012, the Premier Cru that’s one of Bouchard’s signature bottlings. Silky, floral, classic Beaune. Then Bouchard Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cailles 2005, showing that village’s more structured, earthy character with age.

The lineup escalated: Bouchard Clos Vougeot 2002, the Grand Cru showing classic Vougeot power and structure; Bouchard Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 2002, one of the greatest Grand Crus in Burgundy, all perfume and precision; and Bouchard Chambertin 2009, ripe and generous from that sun-blessed vintage.

More treasures: Bouchard Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cailles 2005 and Bouchard Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2002, both showing beautifully with age—tertiary notes of forest floor, leather, and dried cherry emerging.

We dove deeper into the cellar: Bouchard Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus (vintage unclear); Bouchard Corton-Charlemagne 2000, the white Grand Cru; Bouchard Vosne-Romanée 2001, Grand Cru, from that legendary village; Bouchard Clos Vougeot 1999, showing two decades of evolution.

Then: Bouchard Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus (another vintage); Bouchard Chevalier-Montrachet 2020, the Grand Cru white; Bouchard Clos Vougeot 2001 and 1999—a vertical within the vertical.

The procession continued: Jean-Claude Boisset Savigny-Les-Beaune Les Peuillets 1999 Premier Cru; Domaine Parent Beaune Clos De La Mousse 2008 Premier Cru; Domaine Parent Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cras 2008 Premier Cru; Bouchard Le Corton 2012 Grand Cru; and Château de La Maltroye Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru white.

More gems emerged: Bouchard Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus 2012; Bouchard Clos Vougeot 2014; Joseph Drouhin Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 1999; Domaine Bouchard Beaune Clos de la Mousse 2008; Domaine Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Porets-Saint-Georges 2006; and Bouchard Le Corton 2008.

The bottles kept coming: Bouchard Volnay Les Caillerets 2012; Château de Beaune Le Corton 1992—a Grand Cru showing three decades of age; Bouchard Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus 2012 (yet another bottle of this stellar Premier Cru); Bouchard Clos Vougeot 2014; Bouchard Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 1999; and Bouchard Beaune Clos de la Mousse 2008.

As we moved toward the cheese course, the wine show continued unabated.

Artisanal Cheese Course with cool stoneware presenting pale straw and ivory: a chalk-white bloomy rind slumping into glossy custard alongside two batons of firm, sunlit-yellow cheese. The soft wedge exhales aromas of cultured cream and button mushroom, spreading like satin—saline, lactic-sweet, with hints of hazelnut. The companion slices offer gentle snap, yielding to supple chew with flavors of sweet butter, toasted grain, and faint apple acidity.

Cheese platter with Comté, Camembert, bread and butter. Classic, simple, perfect.

Yep, if butter sauce wasn’t enough, we needed MORE butter in its purest form! Because why not?

This was some really great food. I haven’t eaten at “regular” Seline yet myself, but given the photos online and my previous experience with the chef, the normal menu is much more modern and cerebral. This was pure butter-forward French—rich, classical, delicious, and utterly unrepentant.

More whites: Bouchard Meursault Genevrières 2020 and Meursault Perrières 2020, both Premier Crus; Bouchard Volnay Les Caillerets 2012; Bouchard Le Corton 1992; and Bouchard Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus Premier Cru.

The final wave: Bouchard Meursault Genevrières 2020 and Meursault Perrières 2020; Bouchard Volnay Les Caillerets 2012; and Domaines du Château de Meursault Le Corton Grand Cru 1992.

This was the kind of dinner that reminds you why classical French cooking endures. There’s a reason beurre blanc has survived centuries of culinary evolution: when it’s done right, nothing beats it. The scallop quenelle was ethereal, the salmon luxurious, every meat course elevated by sauces that tasted of hours of patient reduction and perfect technique. The kitchen knows how to handle butter and stock, gelatin and acid, building flavors that are rich without being cloying, intense without being overwrought.

And the wines—my god, the wines. Bouchard isn’t always the most exciting producer in Burgundy; they’re a large négociant with holdings that sometimes produce wines that are good rather than great. But on this night, with bottles chosen carefully and given time to breathe, the house showed what it can do. The Meursaults were textbook, the Beaune Grèves consistently elegant, the Clos Vougeots powerful and structured. The older vintages—that 1992 Corton, the 1999 bottles—demonstrated Burgundy’s ability to age with grace, developing complexity while retaining freshness.

What made the evening work was the synergy between food and wine. This wasn’t modernist cuisine that fights with traditional wine; it was cooking designed to showcase classic bottles. The butter sauces provided a luxurious canvas for white Burgundy’s richness and acidity. The meat jus—earthy, concentrated, layered with red wine—echoed the Pinot Noirs’ structure and tertiary development. Every pairing felt considered, harmonious, right.

The Sage Society deserves credit for orchestrating an event that was educational without being stuffy, luxurious without being pretentious. This was serious wine paired with serious cooking, served to people who appreciate both. No one was taking Instagram photos of every course or checking their phones between pours. We were tasting, discussing, comparing vintages, debating terroir, enjoying the hell out of ourselves.

Seline proved they can cook classically when called upon, even if their regular menu skews more contemporary. I’m curious to try their everyday offerings—modern Mediterranean with cerebral touches sounds appealing—but for this night, going full Burgundian was the right call. Sometimes you don’t need innovation; you just need butter, sauce, and technique. Lots of butter. An almost obscene amount of butter. And you know what? It was perfect.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  4. Camphor Cool
  5. Jadot at Petrossian
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Bouchard, Dave Beran, French Cuisine, Liz Lee, Sage Society, Seline, Wine

Parisian Pasjoli

Mar02

Restaurant: Pasjoli

Location: 2732 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405. (424) 330-0020

Date: January 15, 2020

Cuisine: Bistro French

Rating: Really good

_

Pasjoli is an elevated French bistro from award-winning chef Dave Beran. The restaurant pays homage to French cuisine utilizing the bounty of produce available in Southern California. Dave Beran is the guy behind Dialogue, which I didn’t love on my single visit (but I do need to try again). In any case, looking at the photos of Pasjoli (before I went) it looked very good: straight up but precise rich French cooking.

7U1A5611
It’s located on Main Street, on the Venice end of Santa Monica. Rooted in classic French cuisine and inspired by the Parisian markets, Pasjoli reflects Beran’s thoughtful cooking style, showcasing his creative touches on bistro fare.
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The front has been built out in a very Parisian style.
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The interior is Bistro crossed with LA contemporary.
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Quite attractive though.
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Le menu.
7U1A5617
From my cellar: 2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas-François Billecart. VM 94. The 2002 Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart comes across as rich, powerful and opulent. This latest release of the 2002 was disgorged in July 2015 and finished with a Chardonnay-based liqueur whereas the previous release, disgorged in May 2014, was finished with a Pinot Noir-based liqueur. This is a distinctly vinous, almost shockingly raw, visceral Champagne from Billecart-Salmon. There is no shortage of volume or intensity, that is for sure. Stylistically, this year’s release inhabits a whole other world relative to last year’s release. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. (Drink between 2018-2042)
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Salade d’endives. black walnut, grapefruit, comté. Classic French endive salad with a newer presentation.
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Ragoût d’oignons caramélisés. caramelized onion, gruyère, pâte brisée. Nice and rich, like a cheese onion mousse. Sort of a reconfigured onion soup — sort of.
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Crabe et chou-fleur. blue crab, cauliflower cream, sorrel. Great “salad”. Bright flavors and lots of clean crabby taste.
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Quenelle. scallop, caviar beurre blanc. Not your classic quenelle (the omelet-like log in lobster bisque sauce), this was a buttery feathery light mousse with lots of caviar. Nice balance of butter and briney fish eggs.
7U1A5618
From my cellar: 1999 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Charmes-Chambertin. VM 92+. Bright, saturated ruby. Vibrant aromas of blackberry and violet. Powerful but juicy and not at all heavy. A wonderfully fresh wine of terrific verve. Still tight on the firmly tannic back end. Quite fine, though.
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Truite amandine. rainbow trout, smoked roe, French beans.
7U1A5726
Cauliflower.
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Homard vol-au-vent. lobster, melted leeks, sauce béarnaise. Super rich, but fabulous. Lobster, pastry, shellfish sauce. What’s not to love?
7U1A5659

Canard à la Rouennaise à la presse (Escoffier 3476). whole roast duck, salad of salanova lettuce and duck leg, gratin dauphinois
for two (available by pre-order only).

7U1A5663
The duck comes out on its bed of rosemary and they first cut off the breasts.
7U1A5661
Tools.
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It’s semi-raw, as the breasts will be finished back in the kitchen.
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The carcass is chopped up and…
7U1A5669
Goes in the “torture device press.”
7U1A5670
Seen here.
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The “jus” (blood and drippings) is then pressed out and combined with wine, cognac, etc and cooked into a sauce.
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Duck breast meat returning from the kitchen looking perfect.

7U1A5687
Avec le jus. About as good a European/French style duck breast as I’ve had. Not as good as a great Peking duck, but what is?
7U1A5690
You can see the fat / flavor emulsion here.
7U1A5695
Gratin dauphinois. These were basically perfect potatoes layered with dairy. Really delicious.
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Salad of salanova lettuce and duck leg. Delicious salad.
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Each duck has it’s own unique numbered card.
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The dessert menu.
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Soufflé au chocolat. Bitter chocolate, vanilla ice cream.

7U1A5742
Chocolate sauce to go in the soufflé.
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Sauce on its way in. Very good classic soufflé.
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Vanilla ice cream.

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Tarte au fruit de la passion. Green chartreuse cream. Delicious with an intense passionfruit flavor.

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Riz au lait. Rice pudding, 8-hour roasted pineapple, rum. Spectacular creamy rice pudding nicely complemented by the pineapple and caramel/rum sauce.
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Caramel rum sauce for the rice pudding.
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The check came in this cute book. Service was all built into the prices.

I really liked everything about Pasjoli. It’s not cheap, but it felt worth it. The decor is elegant/updated. The service was very friendly and efficient. Food was extremely on point. Updated French bistro fare, so nothing felt dated. Great flavors. It’s very rich. If you like “light” this probably isn’t your cup of jus.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Bistro, Dave Beran, duck, French, Pasjoli, Pressed duck, Santa Monica

Dialogue with an Epilogue

Nov01

Restaurant: Dialogue

Location: 1315 3rd Street Promenade, Santa Monica, CA 90401.

Date: September 28, 2017

Cuisine: Modernist

Rating: Tasty, but small portions and attitude

_

Dialogue is a new restaurant in the old Naughty Dog building on the 3rd St Promenade. It’s helmed by Dave Beran, formerly of Next and Alinea! It’s very small and solid only by ticket.

It’s on the second floor behind a hidden door in what I suspect is the hood space for the Wolfgang Puck Express (which I used to eat at 10 times a week in the NDI days).

The space is attractive, modern, and tiny. Tables are very close to each other. There is a small bar and a few tables, maybe 20 seats total.

Here is chef Dave Beran (in the middle). There is just a single tasting menu, no choice. Options of wine pairings and a $75 a bottle (gulp) corkage.

Tonight’s menu.

From my cellar: 2001 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet. VM 96. Leflaive’s 2001 Bâtard-Montrachet (magnum) was intensely sweet, layered and pure. It was pure magic.

agavin: fabulous wine in perfect shape.

Springtime for Sean. Well, that’s all the description they gave me. A “salad” with caviar and some nutty foie paste? It was pretty good but kinda deconstructed in texture.

NOTE: By the way, NO FLASH allowed here. I hate that because my pictures really suffer, but I can understand not wanting the tiny dining room flashing all evening.

Roasted banana tea, browned butter, peanut. An interesting shot.

Blackberry thermidor, short rib, bone marrow. Very small, interesting textures.

Fennel, white peach, and rice vinegar. Microscopic. I don’t think I loved this dish. Gooey sauce was good though.

Larry brought: 2009 Remoissenet Père et Fils Montrachet Le Montrachet. VM 96. The 2009 Le Montrachet, from a parcel on the Chassagne side, is fabulous. Layers of exotic, tropical fruit flow effortlessly from this broad-shouldered, kaleidoscopic wine. There is plenty of freshness in the glass to support the fruit in this magical, captivating wine. I especially like the way this turns delicate, subtle and refined on the finish.

agavin: our bottle was advanced. Drinkable, but pretty deep golden with sherry notes.

Dragonfruit, scented with roses from early spring. This 0.75″ cube of dragonfruit was ridiculous and didn’t even have much flavor.

King crab, popcorn, orchid, earl grey tea. This was interesting. It really tasted of popcorn (not so much of crab) and had that interesting blend of dehydrated crumble and gooey texture. Pretty good actually.

Burnt lettuce that thinks it’s a peanut. No idea where that description fits in. Can’t even remember what it was.

96 hour koji plum, fresh yuba, thai basil. One of my favorite dishes. Very interesting flavors, very Thai in tone, but not in texture. The yuba is a soy milk skim I used to call “skum in a bucket” but I have always liked it. A very soft tofu skin.

Erick brought: 1995 Domaine A.-F. Gros Richebourg. VM 94. Deep red-ruby. Reticent but very ripe aromas of red and black fruits, licorice, truffle and smoke. Fat, suave and multilayered; less immediately sweet than the huge Clos Vougeot but more refined. A complete wine, with an uncanny harmony of components. Finishes with extremely fine tannins that coat the entire mouth. Totally different in shape from the Clos Vougeot: some tasters may prefer that wine for its sheer size and sweetness, but this is superb Richebourg.

agavin: very nice!

Squab, thai long peppercorn creme fraiche, begonia.

Bitter chocolate, cherry, preserved sakura. I have a friend named Sakura (I think it’s a kind of flower).

The sobering of rhubarb. This was actually a gold colored rhubarb fruit rollup. Tasted like sour cherry fruit rollup.

Choy sum, strawberry nahm prik, cashew. Like a mini salad.

Pork belly, nasturtium, strawberry sambal. I liked this dish. Interesting textures.

These are 2 of the wine tasting wines. I didn’t like them, too many herbal notes. Many of the tasting wines are blended with stuff like fruit juice and vinegar too. I can see how they might pair, but they aren’t really that enjoyable even to a wine geek (at least from these 2).

Black cod, yuzu kosho-beurre blanc, sea grape. Not bad but tiny fish dish.

Anthony or Larry brought: 1994 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque. RP 96-98. The great glories of this house are its Cote Roties, of which there are now five separate offerings. The single-vineyard 1994s were singing loudly when I saw them in July. All of them scored significantly higher than they did during the two previous years, which is not unusual as Guigal’s upbringing (elevage) of the wines results in better examples in the bottle than in cask. All three wines flirt with a perfect score. At this tasting, they reminded me of Guigal’s 1982s – opulent, sumptuously-textured, forward, rich, precocious, flattering wines that will drink well throughout their lives. The exotic 1994 Cote Rotie La Turque exhibits a dense purple color, and a fabulously-scented nose of licorice, Asian spices, truffles, minerals, and gobs of black fruits. Full-bodied, with great richness, a multi-layered personality, and an exotic, overripe character, this is a sensational, chocolatey, rich wine with more tannin than La Mouline.

Anthony or Larry brought: 1995 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque. RP 100. One of the treats when tasting through the profound Côte Rôties made by Marcel Guigal was the opportunity to taste all of the bottled 1995’s. Reviewed in previous issues, they are even better from bottle than they were during their upbringing (a characteristic of many Guigal wines). The 1995 Côte Rôtie la Turque is the stuff of legends and is every bit as compelling as readers might expect. This single vineyard wine will have at least 2 decades of longevity.

Everything is burnt. Not my favorite either. Tiny too.

The next dish came on a weird candle holder multi-tier “plate.”

French onion soup, rosemary aroma. Pretty good, did basically taste like a French Onion Soup tako-yaki.

Sebastian brought: 2006 Colgin IX Estate. VM 95. Bright ruby-red. Exhilarating nose of wild berries, wild sage, bay laurel and flowers. Wonderfully dense and sweet, but with an extraordinary light touch to the black fruit, floral and spice flavors. A terrific core of ripe acidity gives the wine outstanding inner-mouth lift and extends the finish, which builds inexorably. The tannins are firm but fine-grained. The best vintage to date for the winery’s estate vineyard overlooking Lake Hennessey, which was planted in 2000. In fact, this is extraordinary for five-year-old vines.

Memories of a tomato salad. Yeah. Texture of jellyfish.

Whipped Persimmon, lemon shortbread, hibiscus sugar. Interesting.

Ages of seedling farms apples, miso caramel. This was a nice dish.

An autumn morning.

A carrot pulled from the snow. It wasn’t cold. A candied something. Not that memorable.

Overall, Dialogue was “interesting.” Let me break it down.

Setting: Nice enough. A little cramped, but big kudos for being so close to my house and brave for opening a tasting menu restaurant on the 3rd st Promenade!

Food: Taste was all over the place from just “hmmm” to quite good. Per dish portion size was too small. They don’t need to be huge, but these were so small they left little memory of the taste. Textures were very interesting but sometimes the dishes felt a bit discombobulated. Overall food quantity was WAY too small. We had to go to second dinner (you shall see).

Service: Chef himself was nice. The Somm had quite an attitude. They rushed us out. There are 2 seatings, which I can understand from a business perspective, but they pretty much threw us out at the end even though we were still working on our wines. That just isn’t fine dining.

Wine Policy / Service: Limited wine list. Expensive ($175) weird pairings. $75 a bottle corkage. The corkage is a little high but at least they don’t have per table limits — a retarded policy I have lambasted before. This would all be okay if the Somm hadn’t made us feel like he was doing us a favor by allowing corkage. He was very stingy with glasses, complaining that they were going to run out even though we could see them on the shelf. If it’s really a problem they need more stems. We only had 2 each when he was complaining and $75 X 6 bottles really deserves more than 2 stems.

If they change their menu frequently I’ll try it one more time, but I think right now it would be best for couple or something. It really isn’t setup very well for wine dinners.

So being hungry we walked down to Capo!

The room was packed even at 9 something.

Steaks on the grill.

Unlike the Dialogue Somm this one was very friendly and the list is huge. I asked the Somm for a reasonable and older village wine and got this nice bottle.

2000 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny. BH 88. Beautifully pure Chambolle fruit with good harmony. This too is quite supple and not especially complex but it is extremely elegant and fine. Essence of pinot character. Give this 3 to 4 years in the cellar and drink it over the next 3 to 4.

Bread.
 Seb got sea bass because he was being “good” — or maybe because sea bass sounds like Sebastian :-).

Carbonara.

Ragu.
 Buccatini with lamb ragu. My favorite!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  3. More Meat – Chi Spacca
  4. Nanbankan – Stick with It
  5. Persistent Providence
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Corkage, Dave Beran, Dialogue, Foodie Club, Wine
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