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Eastern Promises – Azeen’s Afghani

Jan17

Location: 110 East Union Street, Pasadena, Ca, 911103. 626-683-3310

Date: January 15, 2014

Cuisine: Afghan

Rating: Awesome again!

Another week and another Hedonist dinner. We braved 2.25 hours in traffic to take on Azeen’s Afghani in Pasadena, dominating the restaurant as usual with a giant table. Pictures of the room are available at a previous meal here.

We aren’t the only ones who love Azeen’s.

The menu. This place is amazing AND will not break the bank.

From my cellar: 1994 Robert Ampeau & Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes. 91 points. A nice mature white Burgundy.

A meat turnover.

2003 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre. Burghound 89. Somewhat curiously for a 2003, this actually displays plenty of that classic Chablis mineral reduction nuance on the otherwise ripe nose. There is good richness and plenty of volume to the medium-bodied flavors that possess reasonably good depth and length plus better cut than one would expect in the context of the vintage. An excellent 2003 though it almost is superfluous to say that this is hardly a classic Chablis. Still, given the extremes of the vintage, this retains enough Chablis character to be convincing.

This green chimichuri-like chili sauce is a classic of Afghan cuisine. It goes with everything.

Mantu. Steamed dumplings filled with chopped beef, onions and herbs topped with yogurt and sautéed Mixed vegetables. These have been a favorite of mine for 30 years!

From my cellar: 1984 Gros Frère et Sœur Clos Vougeot Musigni. 95 points. This is a great wine (good location in the vineyard and top winemakers) from a very off year — and it’s 29 year-old pinot noir. But somehow (and I’ve had 3 bottles) it’s still in great shape. Really quite lovely with a complex tar and cherry thing going on. I happen to find it fabulous.

Aushak. Leek and scallion filled dumplings, topped with yogurt and meat sauce, sprinkled with mint.

1999 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. Burghound 93. Big, spicy and intense aromas are presently framed by more oak than this wine usually displays young yet there is such impressive density of both fruit and flavors that it should absorb it over the next couple of years. That niggle noted, this is very classy juice with terrific complexity, breed and excellent length. As such, while this should drink relatively early for a Clos de Bèze, the balance and overall harmony are such that I suspect this will live for a long time.

Pakawra-e-badenjan. Batter dipped, sautéed slices of eggplant topped with yogurt and meat sauce.

2000 Le Carillon de l’Angélus. 89-90 points. Great classic bordeaux nose of fruit, some funk, earth, and light cedar. Medium body. The great red and black fruits dominated the earth initially, and over 1.5 hrs the red fruits came to dominate, the earth dissipated and minerality dominated the mid palate. Finish was short to medium.

Aush. Vegetable, noodle and yogurt soup sprinkled with dill topped with meat sauce. Aush has many of the same ingredients as some of the other dishes, but the soup factor really works. Great stuff.

1999 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline. Parker 88. The proprietary red wine blend, the 1999 Diana Madeline, is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc (95%). Its dark ruby/purple color is followed by sweet aromas of red currants, cedar, plums, earth, and spice. Stylish, elegant, and European in its orientation, it should drink well for a decade. By Australian standards, it is a measured, restrained red wine.

The simple salad with yogurt dressing and zatar.

1997 Phoenix Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Estate. IWC 91. Bright ruby-red. Pungent nose combines blackberry, cocoa powder, dried rose, mint and meat. A juicy, intense fruit bomb on the palate, with urgent, thoroughly ripe blackberry flavor complicated by notes of leather, game and cinnamon. Finishes with lush tannins and excellent grip and length. The first wine I’ve seen from this new producer, and very impressive.

On the left, Kabob-e-gousfand. Tender cubes of lamb. On the right, Kabob-e-murgh. Tender chunks of breast of chicken. And also some beef kabob.

1995 Vineyard 29 Cabernet Sauvignon Grace Family Vineyard. IWC 86-88. Superripe, sappy nose combines blackcurrant, chocolate and brown spices. Sweet, supple and chewy on the palate; already displays expressive inner-mouth aromatics. A fairly big wine, finishing with excellent length and thoroughly buffered tannins. Faint notes of roast coffee and game on the aftertaste.

Challaw. Seasoned rice.

1999 Joseph Phelps Vin du Mistral Syrah. Parker 87-89. Phelps’ Syrah, which originates from vineyard holdings in Yountville, is aged primarily in French oak, of which 20% is new. The 1999 Vin du Mistral Syrah should turn out to be impressive. A dense saturated ruby/purple color is followed by a blackberry/cassis-scented bouquet, medium to full body, adequate acidity, and soft tannin. It is a wine to drink during its first 6-7 years of life.

A special beef meatball and lentil stew. Delicious over rice and clearly in the family of dishes shared with Persian cuisine.

2010 Rhys Syrah Horseshoe Vineyard. IWC 94. Glass-staining purple. Powerful, smoke-accented aromas of black and blue fruit preserves, olive and licorice, with a spicy topnote. Shows textbook syrah character and intense blueberry and cassis flavors lifted by tangy acidity. Finishes smoky, sweet and very long, with smooth tannins lending shape and gentle grip.

Our bottle smelled corked.

This special is seasoned rice with succulent chunks of lamb (not visible) topped with raisons and carrots. Really lovely sweet and savory combo.

2009 Koehler Syrah Santa Ynez Valley.

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2004 Torbreck Descendant. Parker 98. The 2004 Descendant, an old oak-aged blend of 92% Shiraz and 8% Viognier from a 12-year old vineyard, offers up notes of blackberries, ink, sweet truffles, and acacia flowers. There are 1,000 cases of this full-bodied, intense, rich blockbuster. It will drink well for 10-15 years.

Kadu. Sautéed butternut squash topped with yogurt and meat sauce. Incredibly succulent.

1999 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Bricco Rocche. IWC 93. Medium red. Complex, ripe aromas of cherry, plum, marzipan, dried rose, earth and peppery spices. Big, lush and expansive but adamantly dry. A very full, layered Barolo with lovely vinosity and balance. Finishes with lush, very fine but strong tannins and insinuating, impressively persistent flavor. Possesses more than enough material to handle the 100% new barriques A superb bottle. According to Alessandro, this cuvee is Ceretto’s most complete Barolo, typically combining the character of the Brunate and Prapo.

Sabsi. Sautéed spinach cooked with onions and garlic.

The flat bread goes great dipped in the green sauce – or the Aush!

An interesting dessert wine that was pleasant and apricoty.

Firnee. A light pudding with almonds and pistachios served chilled. Yum, yum! This was creamy and saturated with rose water, which I love.

2003 Coutet. Parker 89-96. Ex-chateau bottle tasted blind in Sauternes. This bottle of Coutet ’03 was showing slight reduction on the geranium-scented nose, although it seems to sort that out and offer lanolin and melted wax aromas with time. The palate is viscous and quite spicy on the entry – dried honey, marjoram, white pepper and quince, whilst the finish offers an attractive oxidative note. Coutet’s limestone soils mean it thrives on acidity and race, but in 2003 I think the heat of the summer just knocked this great Barsac sideways.

Baghlava. Thin layers of pastry with walnuts and pistachios, syrup soaked. Somehow this batch was so much better than previous times. In fact, these were some of best I’ve had.

This was another amazing Hedonist blow out. The food is so tasty here. Afghan is a really delectable cuisine. Middle eastern with a hint of China, Persia, and India. It’s not spicy but is packed with flavor. Growing up, we used to frequently enjoy this cuisine in the Washington suburbs. You can check that out here.

The service at Azeen’s is fantastic. Abdul really makes you feel welcome. And Azeen’s is probably the best kitchen execution I’ve experienced in an Afghan restaurant I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s better than 99% of the places in Kabul. In fact, my cousin is stationed in Kabul, and he says he never gets any decent food (which is partially because he’s barely allowed off base).

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or for Hedonist extravaganzas.

By: agavin
Comments (3)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Afghan Cuisine, Azeen's Afghani, hedonists, Pasadena California, Wine

No Drone in the Zone – Azeen’s Afghani

Aug12

Restaurant: Azeen’s Afghani [1, 2, 3]

Location: 110 East Union Street, Pasadena, Ca, 911103. 626-683-3310

Date: August 8, 2013

Cuisine: Afghan

Rating: Awesome again!

We aren’t the only ones who love Azeen’s.

The menu. This place is amazing AND will not break the bank.

From my cellar, 2006 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis. Burghound 88. A very clean, fresh, bright and airy nose that offers good Chablis character on the white flower and green fruit nose that introduces energetic and mineral-infused flavors that are both delicious and deliver fine finishing volume. Good quality at this level.

This was my “bonus” wine, I brought it just because I wanted a white.

Pakawra-e-badenjan. Batter dipped, sautéed slices of eggplant topped with yogurt and meat sauce.

This green chimichuri-like chili sauce is a classic of Afghan cuisine. It goes with everything.

1996 Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots. 93 points. Just entering it’s mature period this exhibited classic vosne romanee nose and body. Drinking very nicely.

Aushak. Leek and scallion filled dumplings, topped with yogurt and meat sauce, sprinkled with mint.

1993 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. Burghound 92. In stark contrast to the Chambertin, this is wonderfully expressive and complex with abundant earth and spice notes followed by big, structured, still sappy if slightly austere flavors that offer excellent density and plenty of character. Impressively scaled and finishes with striking length. A clear step up from the Chambertin.

There was a touch of bret and the beginning, but it blew off in a few minutes and we were left with a wonderful expression of Beze.

A special turnover with cheese and potato (I think) and a yogurt sauce.

Bulanee-e-katchalu. Turnover filled with potatoes, ground beef and herbs.

2008 Flowers Pinot Noir Andreen-Gale Cuvée Sonoma Coast. New world pinot. Well made, but too young (for my Burgundian taste).

Aush. Vegetable, noodle and yogurt soup sprinkled with dill topped with meat sauce. Aush has many of the same ingredients as some of the other dishes, but the soup factor really works. Great stuff.

2010 Big Basin Vineyards Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre Paderewski Vineyard. Rhone Rangers 95. This has a ton of layers and subtle power. I would say this transcends the GSM concept and goes into just classic big New World wines. Drinks like a Cab/Syrah blend from Napa or a huge Malbec. The finish is spectacular.

The simple salad with yogurt dressing and zatar.

1995 Sociando-Mallet. Parker 90. This accessible, yet tannic example of Sociando-Mallet possesses a deep ruby/purple color, and excellent aromatics consisting of jammy black cherries, blackberries, and cassis, as well as subtle notes of minerals, earth, and new oak. This is a deep, long, muscular, tannic wine that is structurally similar to the 1996. Patience will be required from purchasers of this high class wine.

This was drinking very nicely, mature.

On the left, Kabob-e-gousfand. Tender cubes of lamb. On the right, Kabob-e-murgh. Tender chunks of breast of chicken.

2005 Château Giscours. Parker 91. This forward-styled 2005 possesses a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a big, sweet bouquet of roasted herbs, fudge, espresso, figs, and cherry jam. Opulent, even decadent, with low acidity, but high glycerin and fruit extract as well as a flamboyant fleshiness, this is a stunningly impressive, hedonistic, savory Margaux to enjoy.

Challaw. Seasoned rice.

2006 SCEA Armenier Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

A special lamb and eggplant stew. Delicious over rice.

From my cellar, 2000 Les Cailloux (Lucien et Andre Brunel) Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire. Parker 96. The heady 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire is more evolved than either the 2001 or 1998. Extremely full-bodied, with low acidity, and a knock-out bouquet of blackberry and cherry jam intermixed with licorice, pepper, and dried Provencal herbs, this sexy, voluptuous, enormously concentrated 2000 possesses a huge, silky, seamless finish. Drink this irresistible effort now and over the next 12-15 years.

Another stew, this time with peppers and beef.

2007 Prunotto Barbaresco. IWC 89. Medium red. Enticing aromas of strawberry, cherry and shoe polish. Clean, bright and fruity but youthfully restrained, with bright acidity and a firm tannic spine calling for patience. Nicely balanced Barbaresco with very good length. “My style of nebbiolo,” says Torrengo, adding that this wine always begins its life less open and perfumed than the Occhetti nebbiolo, because that wine is from sandier soil. “The Barbaresco starts with a better balance between the nose and the palate,” notes Torrengo.

Sabsi. Sautéed spinach cooked with onions and garlic.

Kadu. Sautéed butternut squash topped with yogurt and meat sauce. Incredibly succulent.

The flat bread goes great dipped in the green sauce – or the Aush!

1995 Amberley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River. Big!

Mantu. Steamed dumplings filled with chopped beef, onions and herbs topped with yogurt and sautéed Mixed vegetables. These have been a favorite of mine for 30 years!

2000 D’Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz. Parker 94. This estate’s most renowned offering is their old vine (90+ years) Shiraz called The Dead Arm. The unfined/unfiltered 2000 The Dead Arm Shiraz is one of South Australia’s finest wines of the vintage. A perfume of grilled steak intermixed with blackberries, new saddle leather, earth, pepper, and melted licorice rises from this awesome red. With great power, richness, and no hard edges, it is still young and primary, but should hit its peak in 3-7 years, and last for two decades or more.

This special is seasoned rice with succulent chunks of lamb (not visible) topped with raisons and carrots. Really lovely sweet and savory combo.

Naughty us, smoking inside!

1976 Doisy-Vedrines. Parker 84. In many respects a typically chunky, fat, corpulent Doisy-Vedrines, the 1976 reveals plenty of ripe, viscous, honeyed fruit, good botrytis, full body, and enough acidity to keep the wine from tasting cloyingly sweet or heavy.

Unfortunately, this was a few years past its prime.

Firnee. A light pudding with almonds and pistachios served chilled. Yum, yum! This was creamy and saturated with rose water, which I love.

Baghlava. hin layers of pastry with walnuts and pistachios, syrup soaked.

Gelabee. Fried Pastry Dipped in Sugar Syrup.

This is apparently a super rare cult wine.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or for Hedonist extravaganzas.

Bernard shows Yarom pictures of his girlfriend in a bikini.

By: agavin
Comments (3)

Posted in: Food

Tagged as: Afghanistan, Azeen's Afghani, hedonists, Kabul, Pasadena California, Restaurant

Hedonism in the Desert – Azeen’s Afghani

Feb04

Restaurant: Azeen’s Afghani [1, 2, 3]

Location: 110 East Union Street, Pasadena, Ca, 911103. 626-683-3310

Date: January 31, 2013

Cuisine: Afghan

Rating: Awesome!

Another week and another Hedonist dinner. We braved traffic to take on Azeen’s Afghani in Pasadena, dominating the restaurant as usual with a giant table.

The elegant room is covered in murals.

We aren’t the only ones who love Azeen’s.

The menu. This place is amazing AND will not break the bank.

Billecart-Salmon Champagne to open.

Pakawra-e-badenjan. Batter dipped, sautéed slices of eggplant topped with yogurt and meat sauce.

This 25 year-old white Burgundy had a cork so dry that it popped down into the bottle at the slightest touch of the screw – still, it wasn’t in bad shape for it’s age. Perhaps it was a tad thin, although it opened up nicely in the 10-20 minute (after uncorking) time frame, then shut down again.

Aushak. Leek and scallion filled dumplings, topped with yogurt and meat sauce, sprinkled with mint.

From my cellar, Parker 93, “This estate’s Corton-Bressandes is a wine I search out in vintages with good ripeness. It is never huge, muscular, or a blockbuster but can often be sultry, seductive, detailed, and simply lovely. A recently tasted 1990, while at least three years from maturity, was fabulous. The 1996 displays sweet red cherry and Asian spice aromatics as well as a gorgeously refined character filled with candied and delineated cherries. This elegant, sexy, and feminine offering is medium-to-full-bodied, silky-textured, and possesses a long and refreshing finish.”

Mantu. Steamed dumplings filled with chopped beef, onions and herbs topped with yogurt and sautéed Mixed vegetables.

Parker 91-93, “The 2007 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast displays plenty of raspberry and floral notes, has a deep ruby/purple color, nicely integrated wood, medium to full body, and a spicy finish.”

Bulanee. Turnover filled with leek, scallions and herbs.

This other new world pinot gets about a 91 online.

Bulanee-e-katchalu. Turnover filled with potatoes, ground beef and herbs.

Parker 94-97, “The saturated ruby/purple-colored 2002 Pinot Noir Three Sisters-Lambing Barn Vineyard reveals a powerful, complex bouquet of blackberry and black cherry liqueur intertwined with notions of framboise, violets, and loamy soil. Plum, fig, and pure red and black fruit aromas soar from the glass of this full-bodied blockbuster.”

Parker sure loves these. It was still too oaked for my Burgundian taste, although smoother than the 2003 we had the previous week. All that oak is hiding some gorgeous fruit.

Aush. Vegetable, noodle and yogurt soup sprinkled with dill topped with meat sauce.

Aush has many of the same ingredients as some of the other dishes, but the soup factor really works. Great stuff.

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Parker 94, “Still one of the most backward wines of the vintage, Leoville-Barton’s 1982 is a wine of huge extract, high tannin, and a somewhat ancient style that recalls some of the Bordeaux of the late forties. The color is still a dense, even murky, opaque ruby/garnet. The wine offers up notes of licorice, cedar, black truffles, and sweet currant fruit. I had the wine twice in 2002, and my tasting note was almost identical to the last time I had it, in 1997, showing just how slowly this wine is evolving. The wine is enormous in the mouth, but still has some rather gritty, high tannins. It is a classic St.-Julien, with meat and black currants, great structure, and an amazingly youthful, vigorous feel.”

This wine was really drinking VERY nicely.

Smarooq challaw. Tender pieces of breast of chicken sautéed with mushrooms, onions, tomatoes and green peppers.

From my cellar, Parker 92, “The 1996 Hermitage La Sizeranne exhibits a saturated dense purple color, a classic, smoky, cassis-scented nose, and fresh acidity nicely meshed with the wine’s rich, concentrated black fruit character and high tannin. This full-bodied, muscular, backward La Sizeranne requires patience. It is aged all in cask, of which 50% were new.”

Kabob-e-gousfand and kabob-e-tika. Tender cubes of lamb and beef respectively.

A very nice Syrah. Parker high 90s, “There are 400+ cases of Kongsgaard’s distinctive Syrah. Aged in 50% new French oak, it is fashioned from a special parcel of Hudson Vineyard vines planted in volcanic soils. The wine possesses striking blackberry, ground pepper, fried bacon fat, barbecue spice, and underbrush/composty characteristics that are also meaty and primordial. The volcanic soils may give this wine a more smoky, scorched, meaty character than other Northern California Syrahs. As the wine sits in the glass, notes of melted licorice also emerge. Extremely layered and long. This cuvee always benefits from 2-3 hours of decanting, and a young vintage might even be better if decanted 24 hours in advance. It is unquestionably the most singular expression of Syrah in Northern California.”

Kabob-e-murgh. Tender chunks of breast of chicken.

Parker 95, “The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, which comes from multiple fruit sources in Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville, Coombsville, Oak Knoll and Carneros, was aged in 100% new French oak. A blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it exhibits an opaque purple color, great intensity and a sweet nose of blue and black fruits intermixed with toasty oak, lead pencil shavings and forest floor. Rich, layered and full-bodied with silky tannins.”

Challaw. Seasoned rice.

Vegetarian dishes. In the back is some Katchalu. Potatoes cooked with onions, tomatoes, cilantro and garlic.

Sabsi. Sautéed spinach cooked with onions and garlic.

This cilantro chile sauce is awesome.

Parker was not a fan, 75 points! “One of the thinner, leaner, more malnourished Cabernet Sauvignons in my tasting, this primarily Cabernet Sauvignon blended with touches of Merlot and Cabernet Franc did not perform well. It is under-fruited and medium-bodied with a short finish.”

Kadu. Sautéed butternut squash topped with yogurt and meat sauce. Incredibly succulent.

The flat bread goes great dipped in the green sauce – or the Aush!

No space on the table.

I’m always a big fan of old Madeira’s and this didn’t disappoint. Parker has his “technical” opinion below, but this was an extremely enjoyable treat.

Parker 88, “The 1875 Malvasia is showing a little flabbiness on the nose, with smudged notes of brown sugar, nougat and coconut. The palate is sweet and a little saccharine on the entry. It shows good weight and substance, but it feels a little cloying towards the finish. There are better bottles out there and, indeed, returning to the same bottle after two weeks it had gained more composure.”

Baghlava. hin layers of pastry with walnuts and pistachios, syrup soaked.