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Archive for raw crab

Ruen Pair Rules

Dec15

Restaurant: Ruen Pair

Location: 5257 Hollywood Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90027. (323) 466-0153

Date: December 9, 2014 and February 16, 2023

Cuisine: Thai

Rating: Solid Thai, not super spicy

_

It’s been awhile since I’ve had authentic Thai, so it was with some relish that I headed out with my Hedonist group to this Thai town eatery.


The minimall is packed with Thai restaurants, massage places, and the like.


Inside.

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The tiny little menu.


NV Tissot (Bénédicte et Stéphane / André et Mireille) Crémant du Jura Extra Brut. 92 points. Really liked this sparkler! Very well balanced with only a slight dosage. The blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is apparent in the “traditional” Champagne like blend that is not always the approach in the Jura. A good amount of complexity ending in a long finish of pineapple and yeast. Great QPR too.


Pork jerky. Deep fried marinated pork served with special sauce. Chewy but full of flavor. The sauce was insanely spicy (we asked for it full Thai spicy). Good 10 minutes of slow burn.


Beef jerky. Deep fried marinated beef served with special sauce. Not nearly as good as the pork — fairly bland and chewy in fact. The beef version was WAY chewy. My jaw still hurts (JK). Go for the white meat.


2007 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes. IWC 93. Pale yellow. Ineffable aromas of lime, crushed stone, violet, iris and spicecake. Bright, penetrating and precise, with superb energy and purity to the high-pitched citrus, mineral and spice flavors. At once dense and racy, and in need of aging. Persistent and palate-staining on the finish. (The Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets showed lovely sweetness and generosity of texture.


Thai Issan Sausage. Some yummy pig in a casing and fried with Thai side elements. I would have liked to see a little more flavor from the sausage itself.

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BBQ Pork. Grilled pork served with special sauce. A bit sweeter and not nearly as good as the pork jerky.


2004 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese. IWC 92. Mesmerizing aromas of papaya, sweet herbs and spearmint. Intense but discreet cherry fruit rises from the mid-palate, accompanied by brilliant acidity. The riveting finish is animated and spicy. One of the finest spatleses of the vintage in Germany.


Stuffed shrimp. These crabcake-like babies contained a dense shrimp paste/filling. I liked them a lot. I’m a fan of these seafood McNugget type dishes.

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Chicke Sate. Grilled chicken on stick served with peanut sauce and cucumber sauce. Soft but kinda bland.

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Spicy Raw Shrimp Salad. Raw shrimps in spicy and sour dressing. Very nice soft raw shrimp with a nice bitey texture. The sauce was full of green chili potency — lots of it!


2008 Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese. IWC 90. Pale golden yellow. Floral aromas lift apricot and quince on the nose. The complex tropical fruit flavors are accented by a hint of licorice and a shot of slate. The subtle balance of sweetness and acidity belies this wine’s richness. Offers nice length and potential.

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Spicy Beef Salad. Beef mixed with tomatoes, red onion, chili cucumber and lime juice. Okay beef salad. The beef itself was medium tasty. The dressing was very spicy too.

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Pork Larb. Ground pork with red onion, green onion, chili, cilantro, rice powder and lime juice. A fine larb with a good amount of flavor.

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Fried Egg with Ground Pork. Pleasant omelet.

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Coconut Chicken Soup. Chicken, mushroom, lemon grass, lime leaves, galangal and lime juice in coconut soup. A tasty soup with lots of chicken. Not nearly as good as the Jitlada “Coco Lotus Soup” but still enjoyable. This one was fairly dense and heading toward a curry, but it still had that lovely sour / lemongrass / coconut thing going.


From my cellar: 2004 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese. 92 points. COLOR-nice golden; NOSE-burnt BMX tires meets peaches, apricots & pears; spritzy; TASTE-beautiful bluestone; gorgeous dried Apricots; viscous & oily; gorgeous peach juice; very polished; great, great wine; very delicate; nice floral aspects; subtle cactus juice & on the finish; a concoction of Cantaloupe & dandelion dancing on the back-end; very complex; great balance of acidity & fruit; great structure; absolute elegance at it’s finest.


Fried catfish. Catfish slices that have been deep fried crispy and are served in this vinegary sauce. The sauce did a great job complementing the fry. Besides the need to avoid bones, this was a delicious dish.

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Spicy Catfish. Deep fried catfish with curry sauce. Tasty curry. The fish was a touch dry on some pieces and there were bones.

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Chinese Brococoli with Crispy Pork. Stir fried Chinese Brococoli and Crispy Pork. The pork wasn’t that crispy with all that “jus” but it was tasty.

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Spicy Combinations Salad. Chinese sausages, dried shrimp, salted cabbage, salted egg and black egg mixed with onion, chili and lime juice. Love both the Chinese Sausage and the “black” (1000 year old) egg.


Pad Thai. The usual, but good as usual.


2006 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel. JG 95. Faint spritz on opening, clear rich botrytis, lovely texture, so full and rich, but balances with a spike of acid on the finish, good now but will blossom in time.

agavin: my favorite with the food. rich, amber, and sweet!


A different Pad Thai.

2012 Robert Mondavi Winery Pinot Noir. IWC 87. Bright palish red. Slightly diffuse aromas of strawberry, raspberry, underbrush and smoky oak, perked up by mint and floral nuances. A bit juicier and more delineated in the mouth than the nose suggests but shows only moderate intensity and depth. Finishes slightly tart, with dusty tannins.


Egg Salad. Not sure where the salad is, but this odd dish was delicious. Basically, it’s fried eggs with chilis on top. But the vinegary hot tang of the chilies is fabulous with the soft centered eggs.


From my cellar: 2003 Louis Latour Corton-Clos de la Vigne au Saint. Burghound 91. A huge step up in elegance, complexity and purity with extremely pretty spicy red pinot fruit aromas that introduce supple, sweet and opulent flavors that remain precise and beautifully well balanced. An altogether lovely wine that combines power and elegance with first class cellar potential.


2012 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 40th Anniversary. 89 points. Large-scaled and rich on the nose with toasty brioche, blackberry, currant and milk chocolate. On the palate, velvety textures ushered in dark fruits, spice, coco, licorice and cherry liquor. The finish was long with saturating black fruits and a linger hint of hard candy.


Pork larb. Nice  tang to it, not too hot.


Beef Panaang curry. Your typical bamboo shoot red curry with beef. Certainly a pleasant dish, particularly with rice. This is on the thin mild end of the Panaang spectrum. I really like mine more intense.


2005 Kay Brothers Shiraz Hillside Amery Vineyards. 89 points. Inky dark, with hints of smoke and cedar on the nose. Black currants and blackberries are prominent on the palate, but the secondary characteristics are still caught in a tannic grip.

 


2008 Carlisle Syrah James Berry Vineyard. IWC 93. Opaque violet. Stunning bouquet displays dark berry liqueur, incense, dried violet and smoked meat. Tight on entry, then expansive and sweet in the middle, with noteworthy pliancy and sweetness to the dark fruit, violet pastille, apricot, mineral and spice flavors. Lots going on here-and highly expressive today, even if the firm, dusty tannins call for patience.


Spicy clams. They weren’t actually spicy, but the sauce was rich and delicious.


Morning Glory shoots. In a mild Thai brown sauce. Colon sweeper!


Thai BBQ chicken. Solid.


Shrimp salad. This also had a nice vinegar tang.


Pineapple rice. Good stuff, with that sweetness. A tad mushy.

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Stewed Pork Pad Ka Prow. Stewed Pork Leg sauteed with chili and basil leaves. Very stewed — pulled pork Thai style.

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Stewed Duck Ka Prow. Stewed Duck sauteed with chili and basil leaves. Extremely stewed — not as enjoyable with duck skin as with pork.


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Roasted Duck Curry. Roasted duck with pineapple, tomatoes, red curry paste and chili in coconut milk. Good flavor but not much duck and a lot of pineapple. Always a winner, with a nice rich curry and a certain sweetness. There could have been more duck though.

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Yellow Curry with Chicken. Chicken with yellow curry and potato in coconut milk. Very pleasant if basic yellow curry.
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Chicken Panang. Chicken with peanut curry paste and chili in coconut milk. Felt more like a straight up red curry than a panang (which has peanut paste in it) and wasn’t spicy or “exotic” at all — but it did have a great curry flavor.

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Pad Kee Mao. Flat rice noodle star fried with chili, basil, egg, and shrimp. Very nice texture.
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Vermicelli with Pork and Vegetables. I didn’t like this. The pork was over cooked and not that tasty.


1986 Château Raymond-Lafon. Parker 92. It is hard to believe this wine will eclipse the great 1983, but the differences in the two wines are negligible. I do not believe the 1986 makes quite the impact on the palate that the huge, massive 1983 does, but there is a great deal of botrytis, and a profound, penetrating fragrance of sauteed pineapple, vanillin, toast, and honeyed peaches. In the mouth, the wine is more streamlined than the 1983, but lusciously rich and full bodied, with very good acidity and a creamy, intense finish. It will be interesting to compare the 1983 and 1986 as they evolve. My guess is that the 1986 will age faster.

agavin: sadly our bottle wasn’t well stored and this had an off-putting bitter finish.


Papaya salad with shrimp. Nice and hot, with a good crunch.


Papaya salad with blue crab. This was a standout. The salad was the same, but the blue crab is raw, like the Korean crab at Soban. You suck out the toothpaste-like meat. Yum!


Dr. David obviously ate too much raw crab.

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Overall, Ruen Pair is good, but it’s very “rustic”, not particularly refined, and they don’t the full variety of possible Thai dishes. What they make is very solid, sort of like a better (if still sloppy) neighborhood Thai — and it’s not highly “dumbed down” or anything. But it’s just not super tuned up either. They don’t take reservations and are mobbed.


Across the parking lot was this Thai dessert place.  No way can I translate the name.

A grid of goodies.


Weird crepe taco things.


Taro, corn, rice balls!


Banana sticky rice.


Grilled coconut milk. Yeah, apparently you can BBQ a liquid.


Yarom got this milky sweet concoction filled with “Thai fruits” including jackfruit.


I went for mango and coconut ice cream.

For more LA dining reviews click here,

or more crazy Hedonist dinners here!

Related posts:

  1. Quick Eats: Chan Dara
  2. Hedonists Noodle over Hoy-Ka
  3. The Rules of Magic
  4. Hedonists at Jitlada
  5. Hedonists in Vegas – Lotus of Siam
By: agavin
Comments (5)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: curry, Dessert, hedonists, Hollywood Boulevard, larb, Los Angeles, No, raw crab, Ruen Pair, Thai cuisine

Raw Crab Guts are Yummy

Nov15

Restaurant: Soban

Location: 4001 W Olympic Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90019. (323) 936-9106

Date: November 13, 2013

Cuisine: Korean

Rating: The crab is amazing

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A new wine and food friend of mine who happens to be Korean wanted to introduce me to Soban and the wonderful world of Korean raw crab. This popular k-town joint looks much like many others.





The English menu. There is a separate Korean one with no pictures.


2011 Inama Soave Classico Vigneti di Foscarino. Parker 92. Creamy and rich, this is so beautifully expressive and profound. There’s nothing obvious about this remarkable wine. Its aromatic evolution spans from crushed mineral and pencil shaving to lemon curd, vanilla custard and sun-kissed apricot. This is a Soave Classico dressed in its Sunday best. It sees six months of oak, of which 20% is new. Those two-fold veins of acidity and minerality will help it age.

We had to sneak these in tea cups, as alcohol isn’t allowed at Soban.


Like all Korean restaurants they  lay out a spread of sides.


Fresh kimchee.


Marinated garlic.


Eggplant.


Wonderful soft egg custard, much like a savory version of Tamago.


Broccoli.


Seaweed.


Some other kind of green.


Fried tofu with a slightly spicy sesame sauce.


Marinated sprouts.


Another green.


And a final green.


The usual white rice, which I normally wouldn’t picture, but it will become important later.


This is the crab. It’s a Korean species specially flown in, then marinated in a mixture of soy sauce, mirin, sugar, garlic and ginger for several days. Soban is apparently the only LA place that uses real Korean crab.


The meat is clear and gelatinous, and you suck it right not, almost like squeezing toothpaste from a tube. It has a wonderful subtle briny flavor with more than a hint of ginger. Really quite nice, if a little slimly by the average American textural sensibility.


Then, one can mix some rice in with the row and “crab brain” (guts). This is a wonderful treat. My host actually gave the idea to Yama-san at Yamakase (you can see it here). I happen to love crab guts. Not everyone does, but they have a delightful briny savory quality that blends perfectly with the starchy rice.


Grilled cod. This is a simple fish, but cooked to perfection and complete with a large delicately cooked roe. Yum! In some ways it was like the Korean version of your simple Mediterranean sea bass.


This is a fermented and soy paste stew. It smells rather… fermented (like Nato), but has a complex and interesting taste with more than a little heat.


You can see the Jalepenos.


Spicy mackerel, tofu, and mixed vegetables. This dish had a bit of heat, not overwhelming, but that red Korean kimchee style heat. The mackerel was very flavorful, and not particularly fishy.


Octopus in spicy sauce. The sauce is similar to the mackerel, but they use a Korean species of fresh octopus that is very tender. It was quite nice.

Overall, this was a great little meal, with the crab (and the crab guts on rice) being the real highlight. That’s a very unusual dish and well worth trying if you have the guts! (haha)

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Yamakase – Crab Guts are Yummy!
  2. Sushi Sushi = Yummy Yummy
  3. Hedonists Boil Up Some Crab
  4. Tidewater Crab
  5. Quick Eats: Tofu Ya
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: crab, Foodie Club, Korean cuisine, Korean food, raw crab, Sage Society, Soban, Wine
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