Restaurant: République [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14]
Location: 624 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036. (310) 362-6115
Date: September 29, 2024
Cuisine: French
Chef: Walter Manzke
Rating: Very solid as always
République opened in late 2013, breathing new life into the storied 1929 Spanish-Revival structure on South La Brea once built for Charlie Chaplin and later occupied by Campanile and La Brea Bakery. Husband-and-wife chefs Walter and Margarita Manzke—backed at launch by restaurateur Bill Chait—took over the landmark with a pledge to honor its history while pushing Los Angeles dining forward. Walter, known for his exacting French technique and market-driven cooking, oversees the savory kitchen, while Margarita, a multiple James Beard nominee, commands the boulangerie-pâtisserie whose kouign-amann and croissants have become citywide benchmarks. Their culinary philosophy marries classical French foundations with Southern California seasonality: whole-animal butchery, house-made charcuterie, vibrant farmers-market produce, and pastries that rival the entrées for star status. The restaurant’s all-day format—morning bakery counter, casual midday café, and polished dinner service—mirrors the couple’s belief that fine craftsmanship should be accessible at any hour.
Stepping inside, guests find a soaring, skylit hall of exposed brick, reclaimed wood, and original tile, its cathedral-like volume softened by the clatter of an open kitchen and a marble bakery counter stacked with still-warm loaves. Communal tables, an intimate mezzanine, a zinc-topped bar pouring Old World wines and craft cocktails, and a subterranean wine cellar create a layered space that feels simultaneously grand and convivial—Parisian brasserie meets California workshop. République quickly became an anchor of the revitalized La Brea dining corridor, earning a Michelin star and constant local acclaim for combining technical rigor with the easygoing spirit Angelenos prize. Nearly a decade on, it remains both a pilgrimage site for pastry lovers and a benchmark for market-driven French cooking in Los Angeles, proof that history and innovation can thrive under the same vaulted roof.
Raised in a farming family near San Diego, Walter Manzke left California in the early 1990s for classical training at the Culinary Institute of America and an apprenticeship at Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monaco. Back in the States he joined Joachim Splichal’s Patina Group, quickly rising to chef de cuisine at Patina before earning his first national notice as opening chef of Bastide in West Hollywood and later as executive chef/partner at L’Auberge Carmel, where he won a MICHELIN star. A six-month stage at El Bulli and shorter sojourns at El Celler de Can Roca and Pierre Gagnaire rounded out a résumé that now reads like a tour of modern European masters. By the time he took over the historic 1929 Charlie Chaplin-built space on La Brea in 2013—opening it as République with his wife and acclaimed pastry chef Margarita Manzke—he had become one of L.A.’s most sought-after kitchen leaders.
Tomato Menu – Back to Republique for this year’s special tomato menu cooked by Chef Walter Manzke, Chef Margarita Manzke, and Chef Marcus Jernmark. The vibrant hues of the tomatoes are beautifully showcased, with each dish offering a symphony of sweet and tangy notes, complemented by a touch of earthiness. The textures range from silky purées to crisped skins, creating a delightful contrast that dances on the palate, while the aroma of fresh herbs enhances the overall experience, inviting you into a garden of exquisite flavors.
Gothic.
Walter Manzke’s cooking at République marries French technique to Southern California product and a restless, globe-trotting curiosity. House-baked levain, hand-cut charcuterie, and sauces mounted in the old Escoffier style share the menu with uni topped kimchi fried rice or dry-aged côte de boeuf served with Thai nahm jim. The connective tissue is seasonality: virtually every day starts with a pre-dawn run to the Santa Monica Farmers Market, and whole animals and stone-ground grains arrive weekly for in-house butchery and milling. Influences range from Ducasse’s rigor to the improvisational spirit of California cuisine and the avant-garde ideas Manzke absorbed in Spain; the result is a style that feels at once classic and perpetually new. Multiple James Beard nominations (Best Chef: West for Walter, Outstanding Pastry Chef for Margarita), a spot in Jonathan Gold’s perennial “101 Best” list, and national nods from Esquire, Food & Wine, and the MICHELIN Guide underscore the impact.
Philosophically, Manzke treats the restaurant as a living workshop: buy the best possible ingredients from people you know, waste nothing, respect technique but never let it calcify, and keep the dining room accessible to all—from early-morning kouign-amann and Stumptown coffee to a nine-course dégustation at night. “We cook French food the way Angelenos eat,” he likes to say, summing up a kitchen culture that prizes curiosity over dogma, craftsmanship over trend, and hospitality over hierarchy.
Swedish-born chef Marcus Jernmark earned his fine-dining stripes in New York, guiding Aquavit to Michelin acclaim and polishing his craft at Thomas Keller’s Per Se before returning to Europe to helm Stockholm’s three-star Frantzén and launch its Singapore sibling Zén. After relocating to Los Angeles in 2022, he unveiled plans for two modern Nordic concepts—Lielle, named for his daughter, and the seafood-focused Marée—set to open in 2025 inside a revamped Pico Boulevard townhouse, where he aims to rekindle the city’s appetite for Scandinavian cooking. Jernmark’s style fuses Nordic precision with French technique, but it is rooted in a hyper-seasonal, California-first pantry and a philosophy that elevates joy and hospitality alongside technical rigor, making him one of the most closely watched chefs on the West Coast dining scene.
Erick.
Myself.
The menu.
The 2014 Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Premier Cru “Eau Remilly” showcases the elegance of Burgundy with its bright acidity and layered complexity. This Chardonnay offers notes of citrus zest, white peach, and a subtle minerality that speaks to its terroir. A perfect pairing for seafood dishes, particularly grilled scallops or a rich lobster bisque, enhancing both the wine and the meal.
With its refined structure and fragrant bouquet, this wine embodies the essence of the Saint-Aubin region. The oak aging adds a touch of warmth and depth, making it a delightful match for creamy cheeses or roasted chicken, elevating any dining experience to a Michelin-starred level.
Chilled Oyster: aged Kaluga caviar, menegi oil, green zebra tomato mignonette. Very Republique, but nice with the zingy tomato juice. The delicate brininess of the oyster is beautifully complemented by the luxurious, buttery caviar, while the vibrant green zebra tomato mignonette adds a refreshing acidity that dances on the palate. The dish presents a stunning contrast of colors and textures, with the glossy caviar glistening atop the oyster’s pearlescent shell, inviting you to indulge in its oceanic allure.
Blue Corn Tostada: early girl tomato tartare, morita chile-tomato gelée, avocado, salsa fresca. Pretty much transported from Manzke. The vibrant hues of the dish create an inviting palette, while the crisp blue corn tostada provides a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the velvety avocado. The tartare bursts with the freshness of the tomatoes, harmoniously complemented by the smoky undertones of the morita chile gelée, delivering an exquisite balance of flavor that dances on the palate.
Zoom.
Pan de Sal, black winter truffle, San Marzano tomato butter. This bread came from Manzke too. The warm, golden crust gives way to a soft, airy interior, while the earthy aroma of black winter truffle melds beautifully with the rich, velvety San Marzano tomato butter, creating a harmonious balance of umami and sweetness that lingers delightfully on the palate.
Pineapple Tomato Gazpacho: red brandywine tomato sorbet, blood orange oil, espresso vinegar. Delicious but sweet. The vibrant hues of the gazpacho evoke a sunset, while the silky sorbet introduces a refreshing chill that dances on the palate. The interplay of sweetness from the sorbet and the zesty notes of blood orange oil creates a harmonious balance, inviting a delightful exploration of flavors with each spoonful.
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NORWEGIAN KING CRAB. Munak Ranch sugar cube melon, persimmon tomato, Tenerelli Orchards white nectarine nước chấm. The succulent sweetness of the crab is beautifully complemented by the vibrant juiciness of the melon and the delicate acidity of the persimmon tomato. Each bite is a harmonious interplay of textures and flavors, where the tender crab meat meets the refreshing crunch of the seasonal fruits, creating a symphony of taste that dances on the palate.
Makes for a nice photo.
Bluefin Tuna: Pacific uni, sungold tomatoes, fermented yellow peach. Bright. The luscious, buttery texture of the bluefin tuna harmonizes beautifully with the oceanic brininess of the uni, while the sweet, sun-kissed sungold tomatoes add a vibrant pop of color and acidity. The subtle tang of the fermented yellow peach introduces an unexpected depth, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on the palate, evoking the freshness of a sunlit summer day.
Fried shiso to eat it with. The delicate, crispy exterior offers a delightful contrast to the herbaceous, slightly peppery notes of the shiso leaf within. As you take a bite, the fragrant aroma envelops your senses, with hints of earthiness that linger on the palate, making it a perfect accompaniment to a variety of dishes.
The 2002 Échézeaux Grand Cru from Jean-Pierre Mugneret showcases the elegance and complexity of Burgundy’s finest terroirs. Hailing from the esteemed Échézeaux vineyard, this Pinot Noir reveals a bouquet of ripe red berries, floral notes, and subtle earthy undertones. Its velvety tannins and balanced acidity make it a splendid pairing for duck confit or a rich mushroom risotto, enhancing the dish with its sophisticated flavor profile.
Sea Bream ‘Confit’: savory clams, chanterelle mushrooms, smoked tomato sabayon. Rich and simultaneously sweet and tart. The delicate flesh of the sea bream, glistening with a luscious sheen, harmonizes beautifully with the briny clams and earthy mushrooms. Each bite unfolds layers of umami, elevated by the vibrant acidity of the smoked tomato sabayon, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate.
Munak Ranch Tomato Agnolotti: Maine lobster, brown butter, Coleman Farms tarragon. Awesome summer pasta. The delicate agnolotti, with its vibrant tomato essence, envelopes the succulent Maine lobster, while the brown butter adds a nutty depth that perfectly complements the fragrant tarragon. Each bite is a harmonious blend of rich flavors and silky textures, evoking the warmth of summer in every mouthful.
Anderson Ranches Rack of Lamb: San Marzano tomato farci, charred eggplant, sauce ratatouille. Pleasant but not as impressive as some of the other dishes. The lamb, expertly cooked to a tender medium-rare, showcases a beautiful pink hue that contrasts elegantly with the deep, earthy tones of the charred eggplant. Each bite delivers a harmonious blend of savory richness and subtle acidity from the tomato farci, while the sauce ratatouille adds a fragrant bouquet of herbs that lingers on the palate, inviting another taste.
Brillat-Savarin Bavarois: country Rhodes farm figs, rocky sweet melon sorbet, early girl tomato. This dish presents a delightful interplay of textures, with the creamy bavarois contrasting beautifully against the luscious figs and the refreshing sorbet. The early girl tomato adds a subtle acidity, enhancing the overall experience, while the vibrant colors create an inviting visual feast that tantalizes the senses before the first bite.
More zooms.
Amuses had tomato flavor, and they actually worked. The vibrant hues of the tomatoes were mirrored in the dish’s presentation, creating a visual symphony that entices the eye. Each bite was a delightful balance of sweetness and acidity, with the smooth texture of the tomato elevating the overall experience, while the aroma wafted hints of earthiness, making it a remarkably refreshing start to the meal.
Two tomato meals in 8 days, and both great! I’ve really warmed up to these first-rate organic tomatoes.
