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Archive for Alinea

Alinea at Long Last

Jan03

Restaurant: Alinea

Location: 1723 N Halsted St, Chicago, IL 60614 | (312) 867-0110

Date: November 24, 2025

Cuisine: Modernist

Rating: Finally! A Bucket-List Meal

_

I’ve wanted to go to Alinea for years. Grant Achatz’s legendary temple of modernist cuisine has been on my list since he first started making waves with his boundary-pushing approach to food. But I hadn’t been to Chicago since 1994, and somehow the stars never aligned. Until now.

We were passing through Chicago on a college tour with our son, and my wife and I decided this was finally our chance. We booked the full experience — both a regular tasting menu and a “kosher-style” version (they accommodate dietary restrictions with impressive grace), plus the reserve wine pairings. If you’re going to do Alinea, you might as well go all in.

Grant Achatz is one of the most influential chefs of his generation. A protégé of Thomas Keller at The French Laundry, he opened Alinea in 2005 and immediately began redefining what fine dining could be. His story is legendary—diagnosed with stage 4 tongue cancer in 2007, he lost his sense of taste entirely during treatment but continued to lead the kitchen, eventually making a full recovery. The restaurant has held three Michelin stars since 2011 and has been ranked among the world’s best restaurants multiple times. His cooking is theatrical, emotional, and technically mind-bending.

The entrance to Alinea is deliberately understated—a door in a townhouse facade that gives nothing away, alas, so understated that I forgot to photograph, so you will have to make due with a photo of my wife at the table.

The regular menu and the kosher-style version. They run two parallel tracks through the evening, which is impressive kitchen choreography.

The evening began with Champagne, as all proper evenings should.

Krug 2008 – When they say “reserve wine pairings,” they mean it. Krug’s vintage Champagnes are legendary, and the 2008 is a stellar year. Toasty, complex, with that signature Krug depth and power. A statement of intent right out of the gate.

Chicago-Style Hot Dog – Tofu, neon relish, tomato, yellow mustard. A playful deconstructed take on the city’s iconic street food. This is Alinea in a nutshell: taking something familiar and completely reimagining it while keeping the essence intact. This takes gelatinous cube to the next level.

Parsnip – Roasted banana, white truffle, hazelnut milk. I was skeptical about the banana, but fortunately the banana flavor was mild. Mostly truffle. The hazelnut milk added a creamy, nutty backdrop that worked beautifully with the earthy parsnip and the heady funk of fresh white truffle.

Part of the Alinea experience is a tour of the kitchen with a snack and a drink.

The kitchen is a stainless-steel lab of precision—industrial, focused, and quietly theatrical.

They have a Control Freak! (Fellow cooking nerds will understand the excitement) I miss my Control Freak (stuck in the smoke house).

Our kitchen snack was hidden inside this contraption…

Fear Factor Tonka Toddy – Celery root, shallot, apple cider, smoldering oak. And voila, you pull out this fried thing. The theatricality is part of the fun.

The accompanying cocktail: Novo Gold cachaça and Macallan 12 sherry cask, tonka bean. Sweet and strong—exactly right for the moment.

Albert Boxler Pinot Gris Brand Grand Cru 2020 – A stunning Alsatian Pinot Gris from one of the region’s best producers. Rich and honeyed with that distinctive spice that Grand Cru vineyards deliver.

Peeled Grapes – Concord, roasted peanut, bronze fennel. Deconstructed PB&J. Another playful riff on a childhood classic, but elevated into something genuinely sophisticated. The grape provides sweetness, the peanut brings that familiar salty richness, and the fennel adds an anise note that ties it all together.

M. Chapoutier Chante-Alouette 2021 – White Hermitage from one of the Rhône’s most respected producers. Marsanne-based, rich and full-bodied with notes of white flowers and stone fruit. A serious wine.

Osetra – Roasted soybean, sake lees. So good! The caviar was pristine, and the umami from the soybean and sake lees created this incredible depth. One of those bites that makes you stop talking and just exist in the moment.

So good.

Aubert Sonoma Coast Chardonnay – California luxury Chardonnay at its finest. Rich, complex, with that signature Aubert opulence.

Charred – Arctic char, Blis maple syrup, smoke. Sweet and smoky. The char was cooked beautifully, and the Blis maple (a Michigan producer that ages their syrup in bourbon barrels) added this incredible depth of flavor.

Plume – Black cod. Delicate, buttery, perfectly executed.

Crisps – Ashed onion dip, mint. Chips in the bag—a whimsical presentation that made us smile.

Chips for the dip.

Hot Potato, Cold Potato – Black truffle, parmesan, chive. This is one of Alinea’s most famous dishes, and it delivers. A dish with varied textures and temps — you pull a pin and everything drops into the spoon at once. The contrast between hot and cold, the truffle, the parmesan… it’s a masterwork of engineering and flavor.

Clos du Mont-Olivet La Cuvée du Papet 2015 – Châteauneuf-du-Pape from a legendary producer. The 2015 vintage is drinking beautifully—Grenache-dominant with that classic southern Rhône warmth and spice.

Wax Strawberry – With endive. Very interesting. The wax coating melts as you eat, releasing the strawberry’s juices. Another moment of surprise and delight.

Squab – Thai long peppercorn. Beautifully roasted, with the long pepper adding an exotic, slightly floral heat.

Explosion – Black truffle, romaine, parmesan. Explodes in your mouth. This is another signature dish—a ravioli that bursts with truffle broth when you bite it. Pure umami bomb.

Château Pontet-Canet 2009 – A stellar Pauillac from a great vintage. Pontet-Canet has been one of Bordeaux’s most improved estates, now biodynamic, and the 2009 is rich, structured, and drinking beautifully.

Cooking in kombu under hot stones. Tableside theater at its finest.

Beet – Kombu, Asian pear, matsutake mushrooms. The kosher-style version of the main course, cooked under those hot stones.

Wagyu – Kombu, Asian pear, matsutake mushrooms. The regular version. Silky, rich, perfect.

A fish version as well.

Truffled potato purée — silky smooth and decadent.

Blandy’s 1976 Bual Madeira – To close with something truly special. A nearly 50-year-old Madeira from one of the island’s great houses. Bual is medium-rich, with that distinctive Madeira complexity—caramel, nuts, and a acidity that keeps it vibrant despite its age. Extraordinary.

Paint – Pumpkin, chai, chocolate. The famous dessert course where they paint directly on your table. It’s theatrical, messy, delicious, and Instagram-ready (not that we’re above that sort of thing).

The two of us enjoying the grand finale.

Balloon – Helium, green apple, taffy. Yes, you eat the balloon and then talk in a squeaky voice. It’s silly and wonderful. Definitely some fun stuff. Very playful.

Alinea lived up to every expectation I’d built over the years of waiting. Grant Achatz and his team have created something truly special—not just technically brilliant cooking, but an experience that engages all your senses and emotions. The playfulness (Chicago hot dog, balloon, PB&J) is balanced by moments of pure culinary refinement (the osetra, the wagyu, that extraordinary wine lineup). The reserve pairings were worth every penny—Krug 2008, Pontet-Canet 2009, 1976 Bual Madeira. That’s not a wine list, that’s a education.

Was it worth the years of anticipation? Absolutely. This was one of the best meals I’ve had in a very long time. If you find yourself in Chicago with the budget and the curiosity, do it. Go to Alinea. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience, though I suspect I’ll find a way to make it happen again.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Vespertine does Alinea
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Alinea, Chicago, Michelin 3 Star, modern, modernist, Molecular Gastronomy

Vespertine does Alinea

Dec18

Restaurant: Vespertine [1, 2, 3, 4]

Location: 3599 Hayden Ave, Culver City, CA 90232. (323) 320-4023

Date: November 11, 2020

Cuisine: Jordan gets back to his roots

Rating: Top flight takeout

_

Boy it’s been a long time since I made a food post. Sigh, quarantine life. I still haven’t been in a restaurant since March 11, 2020. Total record for my life as I’m sure that from my birth 4-5 weeks was the record (during summer camp in the early 80s!). Now, that being said I have been cooking up a storm but they aren’t elaborate enough to write up unless I start cooking posts.

Vespertine is a very unusual confluence of all sorts of artsy weirdness. It’s helmed by Jordan Kahn formerly of Red Medicine and currently of Destroyer across the street. I’ve generally been fond of Jordan’s unique culinary style. Since the pandemic started he’s been doing “out of the box” fancy takeout meals, and this one is an Alinea retrospective from Jordan’s time there. As I’ve always wanted to go to Alinea but rarely make it to Chicago, this seemed a perfect opportunity to dabble in that direction from the safety of the patio.


Above is the building where the restaurant is located, but I wasn’t there, Erick picked up the food and we ate elsewhere socially distanced.

1A4A3118
The survey of a two person meal. Because Erick and I are gluttons (and wanted to social distance) we each had a set just like this.1A4A3120
The printed “links” to the virtual menu.
Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 9.35.22 AM
And the virtual menu.
Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 9.35.33 AM
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Pear. Celery leaf & branch, curry.
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A top down view. This was light with a vague pear finish to the “water.”

Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 9.35.44 AM
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Oyster Cream. Lychee, horseradish, chervil. This could dish had great texture (slippery and soft) and a very nice oyster / horseradish flavor. Refreshing and herbal.
Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 9.35.58 AM
1A4A3144
Duck. Pumpkin, banana, Thai Aromatics. Following the instructions, first you ate the bite to the right which was quite lovely with the Thai bit infused into the pine-nuts. Then we drank the rather lovely pumpkin/banana soup. One of the best pumpkin or squash soups I have had.
Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 9.36.07 AM
1A4A3150
Halibut. Shellfish custard, hyacinth vapor. There were some complicated instructions about boiling water and pouring it into the outer container in order to release the “vapor” components. We didn’t bother with that but the fish (and particularly the thick which custard) were moist and quite lovely.

Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 9.36.20 AM
1A4A3158
Beef. Elements of root beer. The beef itself was pretty good, and the mashed potatoes I think were trying to serve as the cream part of a root beer float. There was this weird root bear tone to the sauce which made it overall too sweet for my taste. One of those whacky ideas that wasn’t entirely successful. Jordan has also been putting too much sweet in his savory in recent years.
Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 9.36.28 AM
1A4A3167
Idiazabal. Maple, smoked salt. This cheese “chip” had the texture of a shrimp chip, which was quite nice. It had a sweet and cheesy flavor and was overall very pleasant.
Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 9.36.38 AM
1A4A3172
Bacon. Butterscotch, apple, thyme. Here in this odd presentation the sweet and savory thing worked perfectly. Lots of interesting smokey depth.
Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 9.36.58 AM
1A4A3173
Black Truffle Explosion. This optional dish require that I actually cook. I had to boil water and cook the pasta and then melt the truffle butter.
1A4A3177
Finally it was topped with truffle, the greens (warmed in the melted butter) and parmesan. The whole thing was eaten in one bite and was a nice bit of truffle/umami exploision.
Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 9.36.50 AM
1A4A3186
Chocolate. Avocado, lime, licorice. The Chocolate and lime parts were great, particularly the fluffy lime mousse. The avocado was fine but I’m not sure how I feel about avocado in desserts.
1A4A3191
Our wine lineup.

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From my cellar: 2007 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Chevalier-Montrachet. VM94+. Bright medium yellow. Very ripe, expressive nose offers yellow peach and white flowers. Opulent, shapely and very ripe, in a distinctly sweeter style than the Batard. Gives an impression of lower acidity too, but there’s plenty of acid here. I suspect this one will shut down in bottle. Girardin, who bottled most of his crus in April and May of this year, noted that the 2007s really only started to express themselves in February, and that many of his fellow producers bottled this vintage too early.
1A4A3193
Erick brought: 2008 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Chevalier-Montrachet. VM94. Reticent but pure aromas of apple, clove and crushed stone. Powerful, tactile and rich, with a sweet impression leavened by a strong crushed stone component. (A retaste of the 2007 Chevalier-Montrachet, which I predicted a year ago would shut down in the bottle, was indeed tightly wound, but its apple and mineral flavors showed outstanding verve and purity; it would be a treat to taste these two vintages side by side in six or seven years.) Incidentally, Girardin gives his grand crus a slow fining but does not filter them.1A4A3194
Erick also brought (open from the night before): 2010 Jean Noel Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet. BH 94. A discreetly exotic nose combines notes of wood toast, acacia blossom, pear, peach and apricot along with hints of mango and papaya. The powerful and admirably concentrated broad-shouldered flavors possess a very round, suave and succulent texture where all of the dry extract really coats the mouth on the explosively long, complex and driving finish. This should be a knockout in 8 to 10 years.

Overall, we had a great evening. Great company, great wines, and great takeout.

Now in absolute terms the meal was only medium epic by my standards, but it was one of the best “fancy takeouts” I’ve ever had. They really do a great job packaging it and things survived the transit and the considerable length of our leisurely evening quite well. Really, actually bordering on amazing how this elaborate plating “travels” and clearly because of considerable effort on the restaurant’s part, including the very elaborate plastic containers. Yeah, the meal would have been better on premises, but considering, it was about as good as you get. Trying to imagine how it would have been on site, and therefore forgiving temperature issues and the takeout plating (which as I said is at the very pinnacle of takeout plating). Tonight was even better than our previous Vespertine menu (which was good) and all the dishes were tasty. The beef with root beer was a touch weird — in that very special Jordan Kahn way — but all the others were actually excellent.

Portions were also larger than the previous Vespertine take out meals I have had. Just one of my two meals was plenty. And as I had two, I ate the second the next day and it also held up quite well.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Vespertine at Home
  2. Food as Art – Vespertine
  3. Down the White Rabbit Hole
  4. Artsy Toppings – Sushi of Gari
  5. Sumo Bowl Yamakase
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Alinea, Corona Dining, Foodie Club, Jordan Kahn, Modern Cuisine, Vespertine, White Burgundy, Wine
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