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Archive for Abbot Kinney Blvd

Yours Truly

May15

Restaurant: Yours Truly

Location: 1616 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291. (310) 396-9333

Date: April 18, 2019

Cuisine: New American

Rating: Excellent

_

Yours Truly is a new casual American small plates restaurant by former 71Above head chef, Vartan Abgaryan.
7U1A8764
It’s located on super trendy, super busy, super expensive rent Abbot Kinney in Venice, near many other favorites like Gjelina, MTN, Tasting Kitchen etc. Oh yeah, and it used to be Saltair — which I ate at once but don’t seem to have written up.
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There is a small patio out front.
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Inside looks just like Saltair.

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The menu is small and consists mostly of share plates. Technically the last three items are larger.
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From my cellar: 2014 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay Rose. 90 points. This unusual wine is rather lovely. It’s made with a rarely used clone of Chardonnay called Chardonnay Rose (confusing yes, but it’s a white).
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Marcona Almonds. Curry sugar, toasted coconut, salt. Like curry candy almonds. I liked them a lot. My wife — who loves Marconas but not curry — less so.
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Chicken liver mille crepe. Rye crepe, kumquat, artichoke persillade, currant mostarda.  This dish sure looks like a lot of work for the kitchen! It tasted pretty good too — as I’m a fan of chicken liver. Like liver and toast with the toast built in — sort of.7U1A8804

Asparagus. Pistachio, lemon, maple, sherry vinegar, soft herbs. Very nice asparagus dish with bright flavors.
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Scallop tartare. Apple, daikon, sorrel, olio nuovo. Nice textural interplay.
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From my cellar: 2000 Cuchet Beliando Cornas. 94 points. Exceptional. I don’t rate wines this high often. Almost never. This was just stupendous. Beautiful, complex and layered nose of flowers, berries and game. Like a red-meated DRC, that good. Both adequately ripe and cherry-fruited and savory, herbal and bloody. Rich but decidedly middleweight on the palate. Long and subtle finish. No roughness, no rusticity. Gorgeous. Hard to imagine a better Syrah, even in the abstract.
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Fingerling Potato. Cacio e pepe, black peppercorn, egg yolk, pecorino, parmesan. This was not only several people’s favorite dish — being carby, yolky, and all that goodness — but is the kind of fun dish that’s so in the current LA zeitgeist. It derives loosely from classic cacio e pepe, but in a new interpretation.
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Charred Peas & Their Greens. Anchovy, preserved lemon, cave aged pecorino, capers. In many ways this dish (excellent too) is to a Caesar salad what the potatoes above are to Cacio e pepe. Elements are repurposed to lend a familar vibe intermingled with the (mildly) unfamiliar.
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Bucatini “Carbonara.” Squid ink, uni, trout roe, bottarga, cipoltle butter. Great dish, with nice texture and brine. I guess it’s trying to play off Carbonara, but I really didn’t get that vibe. It’s closer to an uni/roe pasta.
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Nashville Hot Shrimp. Japanese milk bread, cabbage, pickle juice vinaigrette, mustard. I liked these spicy friend shrimp (fairly big prawns). They did feel kind of southern (and slightly Japanese, only slightly). Might’ve been the slaw. A decent bit of heat too.
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Some shortbread or similar with the bill.

Overall, I liked Yours Truly and have to go back and try more — until he changes the menu one more go would cover the whole thing! With these dishes Vartan is playing at far less formal motifs than he did at 71Above. There, the plating is very elegant and has a unique modernist continental take. Here, the dishes have as their backbone an array of different ethnic comfort foods, but then reinterpreted with LA Farmer’s market ingredients and a sort of playful LA vibe. It makes Yours Truly a much more “Los Angeles” style restaurant. The format is typical of most recent chef driven American places in LA — with a small slate of dishes sorted mostly by size of heaviness and a general assumption that dishes will be shared. Flavors show that same deftness of pairing that Vartan has always displayed.

Service was friendly, relaxed, and operating smoothly for our meal — even though I had some weird requests (I knew two other tables and kept asking for wine glasses to bring them my wines).

The place is small, cute, and very loud.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Abbot Kinney Blvd, Small Plates, Vartan Abgaryan, Venice, Yours Truly

Tasting Kitchen

Dec20

Restaurant: Tasting Kitchen

Location: 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291 (310) 392-6644

Date: November 14, 2017 & February 19, 2018

Cuisine: New American

Rating: Fun place, good food, great service

_

Years ago I used to read about all sorts of popup dinners with great chefs at Tasting Kitchen on Abbot Kinney. I never went because I’m just not that into mobilizing rapidly for popups (unless someone else organizes and invites me).

But Tasting Kitchen eventually turned into a restaurant of its own — albeit the concept that led to the name is totally different. Tonight core members of the Foodie Club descend on it to work our special kind of over-the-top magic.

It’s an attractive space with an “outside”.

A nice inside.

And a loft.

Which is where we set up shop. The place was rocking.

The menu.

From my cellar: NV Demière-Ansiot Champagne Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs. BH 93. A beautifully yeasty nose reflects notes of apple, pear, white flowers and a hint of citrus peel. The vibrant middle weight flavors possess a positively gorgeous texture, indeed the mid-palate is almost creamy, while offering excellent depth and length on the dry but not austere finale. For my taste this is drinking perfectly now and I very much like both the style and the quality.
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Bread & Butter. Delicious, but extra money.

Kitchen selection of antipasti. Toasts, a couple kinds of ham and salami. Pate. Rilletes of duck. Pecorino and burrata with persimmons. A big plate too and delicious.

From my cellar: 2007 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. VM 93+. Pale, bright yellow. Knockout nose combines underripe pineapple, crushed stone and a flinty nuance. Big, rich and voluminous, but with lovely penetration and purity to the pineapple and crushed stone flavors. Wonderfully sweet, tactile wine with outstanding density and breadth for the year. This very long, scented wine remained on my palate for minutes. From very old virused vines in a spot that’s protected from wind by walls on three sides, notes Morey. But the yield in 2007 was still a solid 45 hectoliters per hectare. Wonderfully powerful, youthful Meursault that should reward a decade of aging.

Mussels Portuguese style. Great version of this classic tomato garlic mussels dish. The mussels themselves were really plump and juicy.

Ron brought: 2014 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers Clos Saint-Marc. VM 94+. Bright, light yellow. Pure tension on the nose, with aromas of blood orange and citrus zest dominating. Boasts outstanding fruit intensity and crunchiness, with a vibrant white peach flavor complicated by a suggestion of grilled pips. Utterly seamless wine but with outstanding inner-mouth lift from brisk, noble acidity (4.5 grams per liter, according to Pillot) without any herbacity. This adamantly primary, intensely juicy premier cru builds dramatically on its peacock’s tail of a finish. Stunning potential here.

Burrata, butternut, pepitas, pomegranate. No one told us that the antipasti already came with this, so we had two helpings — which was okay because I love burrata.
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Baby beets, citrus, pistachio (2/19/18). Pretty typical.

Warm olives with orange zest. Our pasta was taking forever and so they brought us these olives. They were actually excellent, some great olives, very soft and warm and the orange zest and olive oil really brought them up.

Erick brought: 1990 Maison Leroy Maranges. 89 points. I had high hopes because it was Leroy but it was a little tight and astringent with the fruit in hiding. Not oxidized or old tasting at all. After some time it did open up a bit and became better.

Agnolotti with beef tendon and maitake mushroom. Super salty but absolutely awesome reduction sauce and really nice pasta texture.

Riso alla pilota with prosciutto and fagioli. The beans wrecked me later. Meanwhile it was a bit like fried rice with pork and beans. Fairly mild in flavor and the “worst” of the pastas even though it wasn’t bad.

Malagliati alla boscaiola. Not what I expected at all, as usually boscaiola has cream and peas but really great. Thick sheets of chewy pasta with a nice rich buttery sauce and incredible savory hammy chunks.

Bucatini all’amatriciana. Not totally typical in flavor, mild on the porkiness, but really bright and delicious.
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Spaghetti, lobster, pomodor, pilacca (2/19/18). Nice.
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Gigli, lamb sausage, rapini, lemon (2/19/18). I would have liked more sausage.

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Corzetti, pancetta, peas, egg yolk (2/19/18). Nice pasta and gorgeous coin shapes.

Larry brought: 2002 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline. VM 90. smells downright Burgundian. Silky, sweet and mineral-driven red fruit flavors offer impressive energy and focus, with just a suggestion of tannin on the back end. I find this really elegant today.

agavin: we decanted and after it had a bit of time opened up into an awesome wine.

Salt roasted branzino. chanterelle, oregano, pine-nut. Very nice super moist seabass.

Short rib, brasato al barolo, celery root, chestnut, gremolata. Meaty and solid.
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Spinach, pinenuts, roasted garlic (2/19/18). Almost like a Chinese veggie.
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French fries (2/19/18) — excellent ones too.

The dessert menu.

The staff was very nice and brought us glasses of this!

The glass.

Chocolate caramel tart. Mint anglaise, salted caramel gelato. Yummy stuff and very attractive.
 Hazelnut cream cake. Mascarpone, hazelnut gelato. This was even better. Just delicious.
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Crostata, cinnamon, apple, vanilla whip (2/19/18). With the candle for my brother’s birthday.

Overall, we had a great time at Tasting Kitchen. There were a few quirks. First the bad (much overcome by the good). The kitchen was very backed up (they were mobbed) and the food took a LONG time. The bench seat I was on looked comfortable but my butt was going numb and I had to keep standing.

But now for the many plusses. The servers were incredibly nice, helpful, and attentive. Really very good service. They made up for the kitchen slowness. The place, as I mentioned, was very busy and had a great atmosphere full of attractive looking people. Nice build out too. Hostess was nice as well (not always the case at every place by any means). They were very generous/flexible on the corkage.

The food was quite good. It’s not a super extensive menu, nor is it seemingly highly innovative, but the flavors were very bright and most of the dishes excellent, and the lesser ones fine. They “secretly” have a lot of very good pasta here — particularly for it not being an Italian restaurant. Location is great on the super busy ultra-hip high rent Abbot Kinney. I’ll definitely come back.

Came back for my brother’s birthday 2/19/18. Food was just as strong. We were downstairs which was darker and louder.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Factoring Factory Kitchen
  2. Chili Crab Craze – Starry Kitchen
  3. Factory Kitchen – Fabulous
  4. Chicken Crawl – Savoy Kitchen
  5. Saint Martha Modern
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Abbot Kinney Blvd, Foodie Club, Tasting Kitchen, Wine

The Butcher’s Daughter

Oct30

Restaurant: The Butcher’s Daughter

Location: 1205 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291. (310) 981-3004

Date: September 20, 2017

Cuisine: Vegetarian

Rating: Good for being vegetarian

_

Abbot Kinney is one of the bastions of hipness, and The Butcher’s Daughter is so “tres LA.” It’s a sort of spiritual successor to the Newsroom, filled with vegetarian food and a 70% female crowd.

They pay a lot of rent, of course.

Hipster baked goods.

The attractive shabby-chic meets garden decor.

Demographics are as expected.

The menu.

Surfer’s Breakfast. Breakfast burrito, farm eggs, avocado, black bean mole, new potatoes, green salsa, sour cream. Obligatory breakfast burrito. Not my thing, and like a lot of vegetarian food guaranteed to produce bloating.

Vietnamese Bahn Mi. Seared cauliflower, mushroom pate, pickled vegetables, classic baguette, cilantro, harissa mayo. Got this figuring it would have more flavor than most. Sandwich was pretty good, strong strong vinegar flavors. The “pate” didn’t have too much in the way of taste though.

Pad Thai. Handmade rice noodles, thai basil, pea shoots, peanuts, tamari thai, scrambled egg, cucumber-carrot salad. Not bad for being vegetarian. Very “bright” (sour) from the probable tamarind. Not as complex as a real pad thai (with the shrimp and fish sauce), but fine.

Overall, the Butcher’s Daughter is an attractive place with good energy. Eating here did feel like, and they got about as much flavor as you can imagine from it, but still not as much as in the fully leaded versions. The menu focuses on juices, smoothies, and vegetarian “imitations” of more meated LA dishes. There is also the bloating factor all these vegetables subbing as meat lead too, but hey, it does feel lighter.

We went down the street for some Blue Bottle. Achem, Nestle coffee.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Quick Brunch with Joe
  2. Gjelina Brunch
  3. Joe’s Restaurant – California Classic
  4. Lum Ka Naad
  5. The New American – Gjelina
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Abbot Kinney Blvd, The Butcher's Daughter, Vegetarianism, Venice

Quick Brunch with Joe

Jul11

Restaurant: Joe’s Restaurant [1, 2]

Location: 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291

Date: June 23, 2013

Cuisine: California Farmer’s Market

Rating: Consistently good

_

I’ve been coming to Joe’s since 1995 or 1996 and they are approaching their 20th anniversary any day now. In a major metropolitan restaurant scene, that’s an eternity. Chef Joe Miller was an early proponent of the ingredient driven “farmer’s market style” of California cooking that is very popular right now. And despite the restaurant’s venerable age, the menu is continually rotating and the dishes remain fresh and relevant.


The Abbot Kinney frontage.


Quaint bar. Further inside is a little maze of little rooms and a lovely patio that is perfect for brunch.


The brunch menu.


Joe’s has good bread. Particularly the brioche. At brunch there is also banana bread, but I forgot to photo it.


Buttermilk pancakes. Made in an iron mould by all appearances.


Brioche French Toast. Cherries jubilee, vanilla whipped cream, toasted almonds. Decadent, like a dessert!


Pan seared skuna bay salmon. Couscous, green onion, roasted radishes, snap peas, parsley sauce. A lovely piece of salmon.


Reuben sandwich. Corned beef, sauerkraut, gruyere cheese, 1000 island dressing, pickled vegetables. Simultaneously classic and reinvented.


Wild dungeness crab hash. Roasted peppers, country potatoes, rosemary nage, soft poached eggs.

Joe’s offers not only a great brunch, a lovely patio, but considerable value as well. For this kind of gourmet treatment, the brunch entrees are extremely reasonable, averaging perhaps $13. You could expect to pay close to this for an omelet at a typical LA short order joint!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Quick Eats: Brunch at Tavern
  2. Joe’s Restaurant – California Classic
  3. Brunch at Tavern 3D
  4. Brunch at Tavern – again
  5. Quick Eats: Panini at Home
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Abbot Kinney Blvd, California, Farmer's Market, Joe Miller, Joe's Restaurant, Reuben sandwich

Gjelina Brunch

Aug19

Restaurant: Gjelina [1, 2, 3]

Location: 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd, CA 90291. (310) 250-1429

Date: August 6 & 14, 2011

Cuisine: New Californian

Rating: Great food, annoying service!

_

I hadn’t been to Gjelina (despite it being a favorite) in a few months but I headed back there for two brunches only a week apart, one with my son and the other with my brother and cousin.


The all important Cappuccino. They make a good one as attested by the nice micro-foam. I’m not a fan of those coffee with a pile of foam on top versions.


“Moroccan Baked Eggs with Merguez, Chili, Tomato Sauce, Cilantro & Spiced Yogurt.” This was REALLY tasty. The sausage was awesome, as was the sauce and yogurt combo. It had a pretty genuine Moroccan flavor profile.


My son wanted eggs. He didn’t even touch them though. Toddlers!


“Crispy Sunny Eggs with Prosciutto, Romesco, Arugula & Lemon.” This was also very good, and very similar (except for the ham) to my special Breakfast Eggs.


“Pizza Margherita.” A very nice version of the classic. Rich tomatoey sauce, lots of basil.


My son ate most of this, although he complained about the “green stuff” and made me remove it.


“Duck Sausage, Nameko Mushroom, Garlic & Mozzarella.” The sausage was fantastic, and the overall pizza was very smokey with an interesting chewy mushroom texture. I liked it a lot, but you certainly have to be a shroom person.


“Peach crumble with Crème Fraiche.” I like my crumbles more crumbly.


“Butterscotch Pot de Crème with Salted Caramel w/ Crème Fraiche.” This is just incredible as always. I could eat like 10 of them. Bad me. Bad me.

Overall, the food at Gjelina is fantastic as always, but I need to snark about the service, and I’m not the first. Apparently the owner/managers even like to hire staff with attitude! Boo hiss! The first time, I asked to get some eggs that on the menu had strips of bacon on top with the bacon on the side (or gone). I was told (very rudely) that I could remove the bacon myself. In this day and age of people with dietary restrictions this just isn’t acceptable. I can understand not building totally custom dishes, but trivial omissions? Give me a break.

On the second trip we ordered some vegetables which didn’t come (the waiter read them back to us too). Plus similar with an ice tea even after asking about three times. Eventually, after the waiter went AWOL we found him and brought up both. He didn’t even apologize. 10 minutes after that he brought the ice tea and said he’d take it off the bill. Ooh ah, $4 ice tea for free (it’s all profit anyway). We mentioned something to the manager. He didn’t apologize either, just nodded his head. Then finally, about 5 minutes after that he snuck back and apologized, like it had been eating at him and he felt he needed to. There was no offer of a freebee or anything. My brother asked him point blank about that and he took a dessert off the tab.

I go for the food, but they do need to lose a bit of the ‘tude.

You can check out two other Gjelina reviews HERE and HERE.

Or my index of LA Restaurants.

Related posts:

  1. Brunch at Tavern – again
  2. Brunch at Tavern 3D
  3. The New American – Gjelina
  4. Gjelina Scores Again
  5. Quick Eats: Brunch at Tavern
By: agavin
Comments (3)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Abbot Kinney Blvd, Breakfast, Brunch, California, Cooking, Dessert, Eggs, Fruit and Vegetable, gjelina, Merguez, Pizza, Prosciutto, Restaurant, Restaurant Review, Romesco, Sausage, Tomato sauce, Venice
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