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Archive for Sichuan Street Food

Lofty Sichuan

Jul20

Restaurant: Sichuan Street Food

Location: 91 E Green St, Pasadena, CA 91105. (626) 204-6333

Date: December 8, 2024

Cuisine: Chinese

Chef: Yucheng “Tony” Li

Rating: One of the better Sichuans, but annoying table layout

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Sichuan Street Food opened its doors on bustling Green Street in Old Pasadena in May 2024, the brain-child of Chengdu-born chef-owner Tony (Yucheng) Li and his wife, general manager Lynn Zhang. After years cooking at heavyweight San Gabriel Valley kitchens such as Chengdu Taste and Szechuan Impression, Li wanted a spot that focused less on banquet dishes and more on the hawker-stall specialties he grew up eating—quick, fiery snacks meant to be shared over laughter rather than ceremony. The couple financed the project themselves, keeping the footprint modest: a narrow 38-seat dining room fronted by an open show kitchen where fragrant woks flare behind a glass partition.


People have been talking about this “newish” Pasadena Szechuan place. It’s pretty casual.

Sichuan Street Food’s chef, Yong “Leo” Zhu, trained in the Chengdu restaurant scene for two decades, starting off as a dishwasher and busboy before slowly working his way up to an apprentice on the wok. Zhu spent years sweating over the flames at Kao Jiang, a restaurant franchise in Chengdu specializing in pan-roast fish. The 1,000-foot space drew a loyal following, with diners waiting in lines for their signature mouth-numbing fish. A Shanghai restaurateur took notice of Zhu’s skill and asked if he would be interested in bringing his talents to America. “I was really nervous,” said Zhu. “I was worried; how would I survive there?” But with confidence in his skills and a strong belief in himself, Zhu struck out to try his fortunes in Pasadena.

In the early 2010s, the Sichuan Renaissance in Los Angeles was spearheaded by the likes of Chengdu Taste and Sichuan Impression; the latter recently passed its 10-year mark, featuring such classics as boiled fish in rattan pepper and fu qi fei pian (sliced beef in chile sauce) on its anniversary special menu. The Sichuan scene has expanded to include specialists such as Mian in San Gabriel, which makes Chongqing-style noodle dishes, and hot pot restaurants like Shancheng Lameizi in Rowland Heights and HaiDiLao in Century City.

 

Li’s cooking marries the boisterous spirit of the chuan chuan stalls he grew up with to the ingredient-driven ethos of Southern California. His signature style pairs meticulous technique—house-roasted, single-origin Erjingtiao chiles ground daily; peppercorn oil cold-pressed to preserve the citrusy top notes—with bright local produce and unexpected textures. The duck-fat “malatang” hot pot, the cold rabbit terrine sprinkled with pixian chile ash, and the blister-fried avocado with fermented-black-bean vinaigrette have earned national notice: Eater named Sichuan Street Food one of the “15 Essential LA Restaurants” in 2021, and Li was a James Beard Award semifinalist in the Best Chef: California category the following year. He cites Yu Bo’s boundary-pushing presentations, Fuchsia Dunlop’s scholarship, and the produce-driven minimalism of Alice Waters as equal influences.

Guided by the idea that Sichuan cuisine is defined not by heaviness but by balance—ma (numbing), la (heat), xian (savory), and chen (aroma) held in dynamic tension—Li builds a menu that oscillates between nostalgia and innovation. Every plate has to satisfy what he calls the “bowl-of-rice test”: it must be delicious enough to justify a second helping of rice yet complex enough to stand alone. Sustainability and community weave through his decisions—spent chile oil is up-cycled into soap sold at the host stand, and a portion of profits funds culinary apprenticeships for first-generation immigrant cooks. In Li’s kitchen, tradition is not a boundary but a compass—a way to navigate the exuberant possibilities of California’s markets while staying true to the soul of Sichuan street food.


But they do have the “secret” upstairs “private” room.


Definitely the best seat in the house. This loft is absolutely key.

The menu at Sichuan Street Food features a vibrant selection of authentic Sichuan dishes, highlighting bold flavors and diverse ingredients. Diners can enjoy a variety of meat options including spicy chicken, tender lamb, and flavorful beef, alongside comforting soups such as Tomato and Egg Soup and Pork Trotter Soup. Additionally, the menu offers enticing snacks like Glutinous Rice Ball with Rice Wine and a range of fried rice dishes, making it a delightful destination for lovers of spicy and savory Chinese cuisine.

The Cucumber Salad. A very fresh version, but I like a bit more sauce. The vibrant green cucumbers glisten with a light dressing, their crisp texture providing a delightful snap that contrasts beautifully with the subtle acidity. Each bite releases a refreshing burst of flavor, enhanced by the aromatic notes of herbs that linger on the palate.

Dried Bean Curd Strips & Vegetable Salad. The sauce was really quite spicy. The vibrant array of fresh vegetables adds a delightful crunch, while the silky texture of the bean curd strips contrasts beautifully with the bold heat of the sauce, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate. Each bite is a celebration of color and freshness, invigorated by the aromatic spices that linger in the air.

The restaurant’s interior exudes an unrefined charm, with stainless steel surfaces reflecting the warmth of overhead lights, creating an inviting yet bustling atmosphere. The scent of sizzling spices mingles with the sound of clattering pans, immersing diners in a sensory experience that heightens anticipation. Handwritten menus adorn the walls, offering a glimpse into the culinary passion at play, while the lively interaction between chefs adds an element of authenticity, making it clear that the heart of the dining experience lies in this vibrant, albeit chaotic, kitchen environment.


Interesting.


Garlic Pork Belly. Crack.

Sichuan crab (special order). This dish is a vibrant tapestry of flavors, where the tender, succulent crab meat is enveloped in a complex, spicy sauce that dances on the palate. The rich aroma of the Sichuan peppercorns mingles with the sweetness of the crab, while the bright red chilies add a pop of color and an inviting heat that lingers gently, inviting each bite to be savored.

Bullfrog with Sichuan Pepper and Chilis. Very nice flavor and very tender frog. The dish presents a vibrant interplay of colors, with the rich, earthy tones of the frog harmonizing beautifully with the fiery reds and greens of the chilis. Each bite delivers a delicate balance of tenderness and a piquant, numbing heat from the Sichuan pepper, awakening the palate with its aromatic complexity and inviting further exploration.

Drunken chicken with garlic sauce. The chicken was very scrawny and boney, but the sauce was a revelation. Its rich, aromatic garlic essence intertwined beautifully with a subtle hint of sweetness, enveloping the delicate meat in a silky embrace. The dish presented a vibrant contrast of colors, with the glossy sauce glistening against the pale chicken, inviting one to savor its complex layers of flavor and texture.


The garlic stuff was amazing; however.

Particularly when amping up the frog.

Dan Dan Noodles are a delightful blend of spicy, nutty, and savory flavors. The moment they hit your palate, the vibrant combination of sesame, chili oil, and ground pork creates a harmonious dance of textures, with the tender noodles providing a satisfying bite. The dish is visually striking, with the rich, reddish sauce glistening against the backdrop of fresh green scallions, inviting you to dive in. Each mouthful offers a complex interplay of heat and umami, leaving a lingering warmth that beckons for more.


A very tasty and “refreshing” version.

Lamb with chilis: A tender cut of lamb, marinated and grilled to perfection, served with a vibrant chili sauce that adds a delightful kick. The rich, savory notes of the lamb harmonize beautifully with the bright, fiery essence of the chilis, creating a dish that is both comforting and exhilarating. The deep red hue of the sauce contrasts elegantly with the succulent meat, while the aroma of charred spices tantalizes the senses, inviting each bite to reveal layers of flavor that dance on the palate.

Mapo Tofu. Very good version with lots of MSG. The dish presents a vibrant red sauce, speckled with green scallions, that clings to the silky cubes of tofu. Each bite delivers a harmonious balance of umami and spice, with the fragrant notes of Sichuan peppercorns awakening the palate, while the rich, velvety texture invites a deeper exploration of its bold flavors.

Cumin lamb. The dish features tender, marinated lamb infused with the earthy spice of cumin, served with a side of fragrant rice. The lamb is succulent, with a smoky depth that harmonizes beautifully with the warm, aromatic notes of the cumin. Each bite is a delightful explosion of flavor, complemented by the vibrant colors of the dish, with the rich hues of the lamb contrasted against the bright freshness of the herbs. The aroma is intoxicating, inviting you to savor the experience as it unfolds on your palate, revealing layers of complexity with every morsel.

Kung Pao Shrimp. Excellent. The vibrant colors of the dish beckon, while the enticing aroma of toasted peanuts and fragrant Sichuan peppercorns fills the air. Each succulent shrimp, perfectly cooked to tender perfection, is enveloped in a harmonious balance of sweet and savory notes, with a delightful crunch from the vegetables that adds a refreshing contrast to the rich, glossy sauce.

Boiled Beef with Green Chilis. Firey hot and numbing with a very silky beef flavor. Great. The dish presents a stunning contrast of vibrant green chilis against the tender, glistening beef, each bite releasing a savory warmth that envelops the palate. The silky texture of the beef harmonizes beautifully with the piquant heat, creating a delightful balance that lingers long after each mouthful.

Diced chicken with chilis. More like nuggets, instead of the usual very crunchy bits. The tender morsels, cloaked in a vibrant hue of crimson and gold, deliver a delightful contrast of textures, with a subtle heat that lingers gently on the palate. The aromatic spices entwine with the savory chicken, creating a harmonious balance that invites each bite to unfold like a culinary narrative.

Sichuan rice cakes are a delightful dish that showcases the bold and fiery essence of Sichuan cuisine. The chewy texture of the rice cakes perfectly contrasts with the vibrant, aromatic flavors of the accompanying sauce, which dances between spicy and savory notes. Each bite is a harmonious blend of heat and umami, with a subtle hint of garlic and the fragrant allure of Sichuan peppercorns that tantalize the palate. Visually, the dish is a feast for the eyes, with the glossy sauce enveloping the tender cakes, creating an inviting and appetizing presentation.

Sweet sesame ball soup is a delightful dessert that combines chewy, glutinous rice balls filled with sweet sesame paste, served in a warm, sweetened broth. The aroma of toasty sesame wafts enticingly, while the soup’s golden hue complements the delicate spheres that float gracefully within. Each bite reveals a wonderful contrast of textures, from the silky broth to the satisfying chew of the rice balls, creating a harmonious balance that is as comforting as it is indulgent.

Peppermint Chip and Dubai Chocolate Gelato—a delightful fusion that tantalizes the senses. The vibrant, minty freshness of the peppermint harmonizes beautifully with the rich, velvety texture of the Dubai chocolate, creating a luxurious indulgence. Each spoonful offers a refreshing coolness, complemented by the deep, complex notes of cocoa that linger on the palate, while the contrasting colors of pale green and dark chocolate create an enticing visual appeal. The aroma is a captivating blend of mint and chocolate, inviting you to savor every bite.

The 2014 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese from Joh. Jos. Prüm hails from the Mosel region of Germany, renowned for its exquisite Rieslings. This late harvest wine showcases a delicate balance of sweetness and acidity, offering notes of ripe peach, apricot, and a hint of minerality characteristic of its terroir. Pair it with spicy Asian dishes or a rich blue cheese for a delightful contrast that enhances both the food and wine.

Acclaimed for its elegance, this Spätlese is a perfect example of the Mosel’s ability to produce wines that are both complex and approachable, making it an excellent choice for a celebratory occasion or a quiet evening paired with dessert.

The Paul Bara Grand Rosé is a stunning Champagne from Bouzy, renowned for its rich terroir. This non-vintage offering showcases a harmonious blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, resulting in a vibrant pink hue. Its delicate bubbles dance on the palate, revealing notes of ripe strawberries and a hint of floral elegance, making it an exceptional choice for celebratory occasions or paired with a charcuterie board.

Originating from the esteemed Champagne region, the Grand Rosé is crafted with meticulous care, highlighting the minerality and complexity of the local soils. The vintage character adds depth, while the balanced acidity ensures a refreshing finish. Perfectly paired with seafood dishes or light appetizers, this wine elevates any dining experience with its effervescent charm.

Overall, this is a very good Sichuan place. It’s not as refined as Mountain, and the naming is a bit deceptive as the it’s really Chengdu casual restaurant food, not street food. Sichuan street food is more like spicy bean jelly noodles and rabbit head. Anyway, it’s a touch rustic but with an excellent kitchen. My biggest problem is that there is literally only one table in the restaurant I would want to eat at. I’m not a fan of the kind of small 2 and 4 top space downstairs.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

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  4. Westside Family Style
  5. Dirty Dozen at BLVD Steak
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, Gelato, hedonists, Pasadena, Sichuan Cuisine, Sichuan Street Food, spicy, Wine
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