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Archive for Michael’s Santa Monica

Michael’s Rebooted

Mar31

Restaurant: Michael’s Santa Monica

Location: 1147 Third Street, Santa Monica, CA 90403. 310-451-0843

Date: February 14, 2013

Cuisine: New American

Rating: Great job with a tough night

_

Michael’s is a Santa Monica classic, having been at heart of the birth of “California Cuisine” back in the 80’s, but things have been a bit staid for a long time. Now with a new chef shaking things up the food is bright and modern again.


The bar doesn’t look much different.

More lounge-like interior.

But it’s the garden that has always rocked. They don’t make spaces like this anymore!

From my cellar: 2006 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. BH 93. Again, as one would reasonably expect, this is more elegant still with a pure and refined nose of white flower, wet stone, fennel and a hint of honeysuckle that is also picked up by the citrusy, sweet and marvelously intense flavors that possess a bit more volume than usual. A very classy effort that will age well.

The menu.

Whole wheat sourdough.

Dungeness crab chawanmushi. uni, ginger sprout, Japanese sesame. I always love these light egg custards.

Yellowfin tuna tartare. Flax sseeds, kanzuri, yerba mate creme fraiche.

Spaghetti a la chitarra. Lamb sausage bolognese, garlic confit, smoked ricotta.

Potatoes a la plancha. Parmigiano reggiano, bonito flakes, furikake aioli.

Mixed baby lettuces. market vegetables, herbs & seeds, red wine vinaigrette.

From my cellar: 1993 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans. 92 points. Dry game and cinnamon; not quite as vibrant but still fine. Volnay is so elegant and has such legs to age. Perfect with roasted marrow.

Grilled branzino. Black carrot puree, winter citrus, calabrian chile.

Black garlic rice. vinegar roasted turnips, sumac yogurt, pickled wasabi leaf.

Duck breast. Huckleberry juniper pickle, chrysanthemum, delicata squash.

Denver steak. Porcini bordelaise, Russian kale, hedgehog mushrooms.

Ricotta Gnudi. Black trumpet sugo, green garlic, frill mustard.

Whipped cheesecake. Walnut, sour cream curd, graham cracker sable.

Hazelnut chocolate ganache. Pistachio pound cake, rice syrup, orange.

The menu at Michael’s is radically updated. Gone is the sort of 80s/90s larger plates with more French influence and in its place the newer, brighter style of vaguely fusion share plates. But the flavors were very good and execution spot on. Plus the garden is still a lovely spot. Compare to this meal from a few years ago.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Valentines at Michael’s
  2. Updates
  3. Fraiche Santa Monica part deux
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: California Cuisine, garden, Michael's Santa Monica, Santa Monica

Valentines at Michael’s

Mar18

Restaurant: Michael’s Santa Monica

Location: 1147 Third Street, Santa Monica, CA 90403. 310-451-0843

Date: February 14, 2013

Cuisine: New American

Rating: Great job with a tough night

_

Valentines is a notoriously difficult night to get a great meal on. The frenzied rush to maximize profits usually results in lackluster service and stilted over-priced fixed menus.

The first Valentines my wife and I celebrated was at Michaels, a Santa Monica staple that many credit for inventing New Californian cuisine, so we decided to head back and try it out. Things have been substantially updated this year both in decor and with regard to the menu — which is a necessity for any restaurant entering it’s 4th decade!


Michaels has a fantastic garden in back, which remains a nice temperature all year round due to heat lamps.


The special Valentines menu.


The ripe pear and hazelnut nose is marred by a note of lactic acid that leads to rich, sweet and generous medium-bodied flavors that possess good detail on the linear finish. I found this to be a bit disappointing reative to what I originally saw in cask as the nose is curious. This was a tad “advanced”, way more oxidized than it should have been.


Fromage blanc infused with maple and salmon roe.


Roasted Winter Squash Soup. Sherry Gastrique, Burrata, Sage, Chive.


Cowgirl (WA) and Cowboy (NY) Oysters on the half shell, Citrus Mignonette.


Asian Pear with Thyme, Citrus Brown Butter, Walnuts, Pecorino Fiore Sardo.


Seared Ahi Tuna “Carpaccio Style” Parsley, Roasted Garlic, Bone Marrow Vinaigrette.


Grilled Wild Stripped Bass. English Peas, Caramelized Shallots, Orange Nage.


Braised Prime Short Ribs. Coconut Polenta, Watercress and Pickled Chile Salad, Aromatic Soy Reduction.


Chocolate-Hazelnut Bar. Almond/Sesame Brittle, Blood Orange Caramel, Creme Fraiche.


Coconut Tapioca Pudding. Berry Caramel, Lime Zest, Coconut Oat Crisp.

This was both a nice menu and good execution. There were a few small service errors, but they recovered nicely. Overall, as Valentines dinners, go this was a very good one and we need to return and try the new menu on a regular night.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Capo Valentines
  2. Crash Valentines
  3. Fraiche Santa Monica part deux
  4. Fraiche Santa Monica
  5. Ice Cream & Coffee
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: 2005 White Burgundy, American Cuisine, Burrata, California Cuisine, Meursault, Michael's Santa Monica, valentines day, White Burgundy
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