Restaurant: The Chelsea
Location: 3110 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90404. (310) 393-6633
Date: December 5, 2024
Cuisine: New American
Chef: Mark French
Rating: Very good
Opened in 2019 on the steadily reviving stretch of Wilshire Boulevard, The Chelsea was created by longtime Santa Monica residents Katie and Mark French, a front-of-house/chef partnership that had cut its teeth in celebrated kitchens from Napa to New York before deciding to build something of their own in their home neighborhood. They took over a low-slung mid-century building, kept the bones, and invested nearly a year restoring the terrazzo floors and hand-staining the cedar rafters. Their guiding idea—reflected in the restaurant’s name—was to marry the casual elegance of London and Manhattan’s Chelsea districts with the sun-splashed ease of coastal California. What began as a 50-seat passion project is still owner-operated; on almost any night you’ll find Katie working the room while Mark expedites from the open kitchen.
The Chelsea’s menu is anchored in a farmers-market rhythm: vegetables come from the Wednesday Santa Monica market five blocks away, seafood is trucked in daily from Morro Bay, and meats are sourced from small, pasture-based ranches. Technique skews European—house-made pastas, a wood-fired grill, a dedicated raw-bar counter—but flavors lean brightly Californian, with citrus, herbs, and chiles popping up even in the charcuterie. The room mirrors that blend of polish and breezy charm: whitewashed brick, pocket-sized banquettes in navy leather, a bar lined with unlacquered brass, and front windows that accordion open to a sidewalk patio perfumed by rosemary planters. Subtle nods to its namesake boroughs—vintage London Underground posters, black-and-white photos of the High Line—add personality without tipping into theme-park territory.
Within a few months of opening, The Chelsea found itself a linchpin of Santa Monica’s mid-Wilshire dining corridor, drawing equal parts neighborhood regulars, industry types on nights off, and beach-bound visitors hunting something “local but special.” The LA Times praised it for “delivering the rare Westside balance of ambition and affordability,” and Eater included it in its annual “38 Essential” list for Los Angeles. Seasonal tasting dinners, half-price oyster Mondays, and collaborations with nearby craft brewers have only deepened its community roots. In a city where trends can burn hot and fade fast, The Chelsea’s mix of owner presence, ingredient integrity, and unfussy sophistication has effectively secured it a seat at the table of enduring Santa Monica favorites.
Chef-partner Mark French presides over the stoves at The Chelsea, the breezy Wilshire Boulevard brasserie that has quickly become one of Santa Monica’s most talked-about dining rooms. A Venice native, French graduated from the CIA at Hyde Park and cut his teeth on both coasts: first as a line cook at Spago Beverly Hills, then as a saucier at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon in Yountville, and finally as chef de partie at Eleven Madison Park in New York. Returning home in 2018, he spent two formative years running the wood-fire station at Jeremy Fox’s Rustic Canyon, an experience that cemented his devotion to market-driven cooking and whole-animal butchery. Those credentials, plus a stint staging at London’s Michelin-starred The Harwood Arms, explain the Anglo-Californian DNA that now defines The Chelsea’s menu.
Attractive room, very close to my house.
French’s cooking marries Santa Monica Farmers’ Market produce with the casual elegance of a modern London gastropub. His signatures—black-barley risotto layered with Weiser Family Farms carrots and aged Gouda; oak-grilled lamb saddle with mint-chimichurri and preserved Meyer lemon; and an already-famed sticky toffee pudding finished with buffalo-milk ice cream—showcase bright coastal flavors, meticulous technique, and just enough comfort to keep things convivial. Influences range from Alice Waters’ insistence on pristine ingredients to Fergus Henderson’s nose-to-tail ethic, filtered through the precision he learned under Daniel Humm. The approach has earned French a 2023 James Beard “Best Chef: West” semifinalist nod, a Michelin Bib Gourmand in the guide’s inaugural Los Angeles edition, and a perennial spot on Eater LA’s “Essential 38” list.
Guiding it all is a zero-waste, hyper-seasonal philosophy French calls “market first, story second.” Every morning begins at the nearby farmers’ stalls, where the day’s haul dictates the menu rather than the other way around. Trim becomes broths or ferments, fish bones morph into umami-rich garum, and even cocktail infusions are built from kitchen scraps—practices that speak to French’s belief that sustainability and flavor are inseparable. “If an ingredient travelled fewer than fifty miles and tells you something about this coast, it belongs on the plate,” he likes to say. The result is a restaurant that feels deeply rooted in Santa Monica yet worldly in perspective, where locals drop in for a pint and a Scotch egg, and gastronomes cross town for tasting menus that trace California’s seasons one nuanced, deceptively simple dish at a time.
The menu.
The Louis Jadot Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la Croix de Pierre 2005 is a remarkable expression from Burgundy, showcasing the region’s hallmark elegance and complexity. This Chardonnay presents a bouquet of ripe citrus, white flowers, and subtle oak, complemented by a vibrant acidity. Its rich, creamy texture and lingering minerality make it an ideal pair for grilled lobster with herb butter or a creamy risotto.
Harissa Lamb Tartare: rustic bread, mint aioli, crispy capers. Delicious. The vibrant colors of the dish are complemented by the rich, earthy notes of the lamb, while the mint aioli adds a refreshing herbal brightness. Each bite delivers a delightful contrast in textures, from the tender tartare to the crunchy capers, creating a harmonious balance that lingers on the palate.
Crispy Lobster Sliders: arugula, truffle aioli, Hawaiian roll. Awesome! These sliders present a delightful contrast of textures, with the crispiness of the lobster juxtaposed against the soft, slightly sweet Hawaiian roll. The earthy aroma of truffle aioli envelops the palate, while the peppery notes of arugula add a refreshing brightness, creating a harmonious balance that tantalizes the senses.
Escargot Stuffed Mushrooms: pecorino polenta. These delicate mushrooms cradle the luxurious escargot within, creating a harmonious blend of earthiness and richness. The creamy pecorino polenta adds a velvety texture, while the fragrant aroma of garlic and herbs enchants the senses, inviting you to savor each delightful bite.
Roasted Beet & Heirloom Tomato Salad: goat cheese crouton, shaved arugula, balsamic reduction. This vibrant salad is a feast for the eyes, with the deep ruby reds of roasted beets contrasting beautifully against the bright, sun-kissed heirloom tomatoes. The creamy goat cheese crouton adds a luxurious texture, while the peppery arugula provides a refreshing bite, all harmoniously tied together by the rich, tangy notes of the balsamic reduction.
SWEET CORN & RICOTTA RAVIOLI. Thai green curry. I really enjoyed the curry pasta vibe. The delicate ravioli, a vibrant hue of golden yellow, bursts with the sweetness of corn and the creamy richness of ricotta. Encased within a tender shell, the dish is elevated by the aromatic notes of the Thai green curry, which adds a harmonious balance of heat and freshness, creating a delightful interplay of flavors and textures on the palate.
Spring Risotto: chanterelle, cremini, asparagus, arugula pesto, lemon, pecorino. Quite lovely. The risotto is a vibrant green, flecked with earthy mushrooms and bright asparagus, inviting you to indulge. Each creamy bite reveals a delightful interplay of nutty pecorino and zesty lemon, while the arugula pesto adds a peppery freshness that lingers on the palate.
Norwegian Ocean Trout: baby winter veggies, rosemary fingerling potatoes, chardonnay dill sauce. The trout glistens with a delicate sheen, its rich, buttery flavor beautifully complemented by the herbal notes of rosemary and the subtle acidity of the chardonnay dill sauce. Each bite is a harmonious blend of tender flesh and crisp vegetables, creating a symphony of textures that dance on the palate.
Kung Pao Brussels Sprouts: whipped tofu, soy, chili, ginger, garlic, peanuts, sesame. The vibrant green of the Brussels sprouts contrasts beautifully with the creamy whipped tofu, while the fragrant notes of ginger and garlic dance on the palate. Each bite delivers a delightful crunch from the peanuts, harmonizing with the umami-rich soy and a gentle heat from the chili, creating an exquisite balance of flavors and textures that lingers pleasantly on the tongue.
The dessert menu at The Chelsea features a delightful array of innovative and indulgent dishes, showcasing a blend of classic and contemporary flavors. Highlights include the rich Chocolate & Peanut Butter Turnover served with vanilla bean ice cream, the refreshing Ricotta Cheesecake infused with blackberry and rosemary, and the unique Chocolate Matcha Cake with dark chocolate ganache. For a twist on tradition, the Honey Polenta Cake with orange marmalade and lavender cream adds a fragrant touch, while the playful Grown-Up Milk & Cookies offers a nostalgic yet sophisticated treat.
