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Archive for coche

Totally Takeda

Jul14

Restaurant: Takeda Sushi

Location: 123 Astronaut Ellison S Onizuka St #307, Los Angeles, CA 90012. (213) 613-0083

Date: December 2, 2022

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi

Rating: Could be the best sushi I’ve had in LA

_

For penultimate sushi blowout of the year we decided to head downtown and tryout the relatively new Sushi Takeda, which are the new digs for our old friend Chef Hide Takeda who sliced up some awesome fish at Tsujita Sushi for years. He’s recently earned a Michelin star here at Takeda too.
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It’s located on top of one of those very little Tokyo (and also SGV) vertical maxi-malls.
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Classic frontage.
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The gang at the bar. There are two nightly seatings for omakase.
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Jeffrey, of course, was pushing for his one favorite white burgundy love: Coche.

From my cellar: 1993 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. BH 90. A slightly reductive and fully mature nose features hints of exotic fruit and subtle earth notes that can also be found on the generous yet detailed medium weight plus flavors that are both delicious and impressively complex on the sappy and mouth coating finish. Lovely and drinking perfectly now. Consistent notes.

This was another of those bottles that Fred “didn’t trust” (because of their color) but which turned out to be absolutely amazing!
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1996 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets. BH 91. Exquisite nose of hazelnut and ripe melon with flavors that are not particularly dense but very fine, tight and beautifully detailed with plenty of minerality and outstanding acid/fruit balance. Even though this is young vine fruit, it shows excellent intensity on the long finish.
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2006 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. VM 91. The 2006 Meursault Les Rougeots has a thrilling bouquet with a ton of reduction, yet somehow there is marvellous delineation and penetration. The palate is powerful, spicy and dense with a waxy mouthfeel and impressive density. It feels tangy in the mouth and yet it does not convey the same detail as the 1999 tasted alongside, on the finish. Still, this is a fine Meursault considering the vintage. Tasted at La Paulée in Beaune. (Drink between 2019-2030)

These professional scores are always way too low for these wines.
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Giant octopus from Hokkaido with Abalone and bonito dashi soup. On the side was a small container of special sour plum sake for dipping the octopus into. A lovely subtle soup with smokey dashi notes.
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Steamed female snow crab from Hokkaido. Two kinds of egg, the outer and inner eggs plus meat. Other non yuzu citrus to squeeze on top plus shiso flowers. Really fabulous bit of shellfish.

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Ginger, of course.
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Marinated bluefin tuna. Amazing and soft and a cloud.
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Young red snapper. Salty notes.
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Pike mackerel from Hokkaido topped with ginger scallion seaweed. This has a very short season and was insanely good.
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Toro takuan nigiri. The radish had a sweet mirin flavor. Overall an incredible bite.
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King mackerel with salt. Smoked like a deli fish.
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Intermezzo. Seaweed with mountain yam in vinegar. Really great.
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The shape…
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Hawaii abalone with abalone liver sauce. Cleanest version of this I’ve had.
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Shima-aji. Yellowtail amberjack. Tea like finish.
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2004 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet. BH 95. This is almost as backward as the Bienvenues though supremely elegant white flower and subtle spice aromas peek through the moderate reduction yet the piercingly mineral flavors display a beguiling sweetness on the crystalline and incredibly precise finish that seems to have no end. This will be a great wine in time as it’s clear that there is another dimension here compared to all of the previous wines. (Drink starting 2015)
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2010 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet. VM 97+. Bright pale yellow. Very pure, chalky aromas of lemon, lime, white flowers and iodine. Boasts outstanding tension and building intensity to its powerful lemon peel, pineapple and crushed stone flavors. Rare precision and inner-mouth perfume here. Saturates every square millimeter of the palate yet finishes with an impression of weightlessness. A wine of great finesse, this should go on for two decades or more. “The Batard is for the body while this is for the spirit,” notes winemaker Eric Remy. One of my favorite wines of the vintage.
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Ika squid with salty fermented snapper tripe on top. Best squid I’ve probably had.
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My 10th ginger.
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Golden eye snapper.
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2012 Louis Jadot Montrachet. BH 91-94. Mild sulfur detracts only faintly from the ultra-elegant white flower, pear, citrus, spice and wet stone nuances. There is outstanding volume and concentration to the attractively well-detailed and imposingly-scaled flavors that display borderline painful intensity on the driving and linear if very compact finish. Even by the usual outsized standards of Montrachet this is a big though not massive example. (Drink starting 2022)

This was actually drinking like a 99 point WB right now!
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Saber fish, deep fried with shiso. Popcorn like fry.
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Goldeneye snapper cheek. Awesome sweet broth.
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Otoro. Sublime.
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Sardine roll.
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Surf clam from Hokaido.
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Chawanmushi (Japanese savory egg custard) with surf clam skirt and monkfish liver. Super rich and unctuous.
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Sea bream Salt and yuzu.
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Santa Barbara spot prawn cured with kelp. Cured for 4-6 hours. Really incredible.
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Sea perch. Super savory Tiny bit smoked.
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Shrimp miso soup.
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Uni, wasabi, and ikura (salmon roe). Classic combo that was scrumptuous.
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Toro Sardine. A bit of shiso. Awesome.
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Scallop smashed habdroll. No rice.
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Jeffrey’s negi tori handroll Nori from Kyushu.
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Barracuda. Wonderful char.
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Santa barbara uni. Spectacular.
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Braided Kohada.
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Tamago. Very sweet and nice.
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Erick’s repeat sardine.
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Sweet effervescent Yuzu juice. He used to do this at Tsujita too.
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OMG!
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This was one incredible lineup of sushi and wine. Wow!

This was totally my style of omakase. It was mostly nigri, with each piece being both distinct and and memorable, almost sublime. The subtle curing, the deft but restrained use of “toppings”, and the assertive rice are all out of this world. It’s expensive. It’s a bit high maintenance. It’s for purists. But it is incredible!

For more LA dining reviews click here.

For more LA Chinese dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Totally Totoraku
  2. Totally Toscana
  3. Kaneyoshi Take 2
  4. Shunji Sushi – Nonstop Nigiri
  5. Katana – Stripping it all Down
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: coche, DTLA, Foodie Club, Hide Takeda, Japanese cuisine, Little Tokyo, Michelin 1 Star, Sushi

Fred loves N/Naka

Mar16

Restaurant: N/Naka [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10]

Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252

Date: August 12, 2022

Cuisine: Modern Kaiseki

Rating: Awesome

ANY CHARACTER HERE

The Foodie Club returned to N/Naka (again) with the (brief) return of remote member Fred. This meal is part 1 of a 3 big wine meals in 24 hour extravaganza. Woah!

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The busy street corner on National.
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Our table — before we got to it.

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Tonight’s menu.
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Welcome drink. Sake mixed with juices.
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Sakizuke. Hokkaido Scallop, oyster aioli, fermented asparagus gelee, scallop roe “dust”, beets, carrots, caviar, sunchoke chips.
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The sunchoke chip is presented a minute after. I accidentally stuck it on “backward” so as to not maximize the sunflower and leaf motif they intended.
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Zensai.
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Tomato Okra Salad.
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Abalone, uni, tosazu gelee, shiso.
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Unagi, duck liver terrine. This had that PB&J quality that certain foie terrine creations do.
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Watermelon lime “mojito”.
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Shisito, minced wagyu. Very savory.
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Corn, squash, yuzu ponzu, thai basil.
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Homemade tofu, edamame, ginger soy. Very mild.
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Modern Zukuri. Summer Tuna, pickled fennel, yamaimo, uni shoyu.
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Uni shoyu for dipping. The instructions were to take some fish, a bit of pickled fennel and dip it. This was quite good. The Yamaimo yam was a bit slimy.
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Owan. Shiromi, eggplant, junsai, hasu imo, ume. Very mild dashi-type soup.
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Otsukuri. Traditional Sashimi. Ocean trout (looks like salmon), toro, and a white fish.
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Yakimono. Binchotan Roasted Unagi, sudachi butter vinaigrette, yuzu pepper, lotus root “kabayaki.” This was actually quite “spicy” with the hefty amount of yuzu-combined pepper. This gave it an almost green coconut curry-like vibe.
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Mushimono. Kegani, California Box Crab, egg (tamago), sakura mochi rice, dashi ankake.
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Shiizakana. Spaghetti, abalone, pickled cod rod, truffles. The classic N/Naka pasta, double size. Awesome as always, but still small (even doubled).
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Niku. A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Beef, arugula, baby corn, roasted peach, citrus fern, onion crumble. Very melt in your mouth beef.
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Sunomono. Cucumber, grapes, tomato, shiso cucumber ice. Shot of yuzu juice.
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While it tasted like sunomono, the ice gave it a very interesting texture and temperature factor.
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Shokuji. Traditional Sushi.
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Miso soup.
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Blue Crab Handroll (as bonus to “fill us up”).
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Mizumono. Watermelon Lime Sorbet, compressed watermelon. Very watermelony.
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Peach Panna Cotta, peach sorbet, nata de coco, red beans, shiratama, anmitsu. Had that mild, soft, and sweet thing like a Filipino dessert.
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Hojicha Latte Gelato – Ceremonial Hojicha Roasted Green Tea base, topped with 70% Valrhona and house-made Hazelnut Brittle — made by me for @sweetmilkgelato –#dessert #icecream #FrozenDessert #nomnom #dessertlovers #dessertporn #icecreamlovers #gelatoitaliano #foodporn #gelatolover #food #foodgasm #foodblogger #dessertgasm #desserttime #foodphotography #gelatoartigianale #gelatomania #dessertlover #icecream #icecreamlovers #matcha #Hojicha #GreenTea
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Matcha.
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Passionfruit yellow bean paste “candy“.
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Take home blueberry muffin and tea. Muffin was very gooey and mild — not my taste.
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Old Grand Cuvee.
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2000 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets. BH 93. Awesome and bright. This has now peaked and is drinking beautifully with a fully mature nose of honeysuckle, peach, apricot and very subtle spice notes that can also be found on the enveloping flavors that possess a wonderfully seductive mouth feel and ample dry extract that both completely buffers the still firm acid spine and coats the palate on the long, lingering and strikingly perfumed if ever-so-slightly warm finish. One character that Coche seems to consistently be able to achieve is how his wines are at once generous yet retain a fine sense of focus and precision and this wine certainly displays this. Lovely stuff that is perfect now. Tasted thrice with consistent notes. (Drink starting 2016)

agavin: Nice nose even.
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From my cellar: 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets. VM 90. High-pitched, high-toned aromas of peach and minerals. Quite dry following the Rougeots, with less texture and pliancy. This is very closed today (my sample from barrel a year ago was far more accessible and giving), but does not seem to have the depth of the Rougeots. Perhaps a bit rigid. This needs at least a few years in the bottle.

A touch closed and “bitter” at first, but opened up to become lovely.
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1990 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. BH 93. An utterly beguiling nose of smoke, minerals and crushed herbs leads to big, muscular, rich and gorgeously nuanced palate staining flavors that offer huge length and real power plus class and breed to burn. I have had wonderful luck with this wine and while it is now fully mature and, it must be said, no longer what it used to be, it should still continue to drink well for another 5 to 10 years, perhaps even a bit longer.

Amazing!
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1992 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières. VM 98. The 1992 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru from Coche-Dury is a brilliant wine – period. It has a refulgent silvery hue that belies its age. The aromatics are perhaps more Puligny-like than Meursault in style: taut at first with subtle melted butter and yellow flower aromas. It is blessed with astonishing delineation and returning to my glass after 90 minutes…wow…popcorn, roasted almond, beeswax, linseed, certainly more Meursault-like in character. The palate is crisp, fresh and tensile at first, with wonderful salinity. This just gets the taste-buds going and there is tangible mineralité. Like the aromatics, it becomes more Meursault-like with aeration, gaining complexity with rondeur, hazelnut and smoke towards the mercurial finish. This is utterly sublime. Two bottles tasted at Tour d’Argent with consistent notes. (Drink between 2018-2035)

Also very fresh and nice.
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2000 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses. VM 90+. Good medium red. Complex, very floral aromas of strawberry, cinnamon and rose petal. Sweet but also juicy and precise, with the strong floral character following through on the palate. A precise, perfumed wine with lovely cut but no shortage of texture. Stylish, flavorful and quite long.
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Some great juice tonight!
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Chef Niki comes out to say hi.

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Fred and his lovely fiancé (now wife) Maria.

The setting is elegant, minimalist, and very Japanese. N/Naka really is a very special place. All the meals I had here were spectacular. Plus we even did an amazing all foie gras meal here once. The place keeps getting better and better. This is thrice wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. At N/Naka everything is seasonal and constantly rotating.

Coming back to N/Naka after the pandemic I thought they were really firing on all cylinders. This was the best meal I’ve had there since the incredible Foie meal. I think her sushi has gone from “okay” to “great” and with regard to other dishes she has toned down a bit of the “theatrics” slightly but really upped the flavor balance and intensity. There weren’t some of the more interactive dishes of years past, like cooking your own item on hot stones, but the cooking was even more on point.

Service is also spectacular, highlighted all the more by the extremely low understaffed standard currently found in LA.

Click here to other LA Japanese restaurants.

Or other Foodie Club extravaganzas.

Related posts:

  1. N/Naka on the Nose
  2. N/Naka Again
  3. N/Naka – Farewell to Foie
  4. N/Naka Reprise
  5. November N/Naka
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: BYOG, coche, Foodie Club, Fred, Gelato, N/Naka, Niki Nakayama, White Burgundy, Wine

Amazing Angler

Oct16

Restaurant: Angler

Location: 8500 Beverly Blvd Suite 117, Los Angeles, CA 90048. (424) 332-4082

Date: March 1, 2022

Cuisine: American Asador

Rating: Very pricey, very good

_

Angler is a sea-life focused restaurant from Chef Joshua Skenes and Saison Hospitality located in the heart of Los Angeles. However, in 2019 Skenes seems to have “stepped back” from daily operation of his restaurants. Not sure what that means.

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The location is — really oddly — in the bottom of the Beverly Center. I loathe malls and nearly everything about them, and they rarely have any kind of decent restaurant.

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Angler is basically wood fired “stuff” aka an Asador (Spanish word for a wood fire grill).
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The interior is like an updated version of that SF Seafood “ship’s cabin” feel.

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They have live creatures. Some are staggeringly expensive like the crab who was over $2000!
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From my cellar: 1992 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots. JG 93. The ’92 Coche Rougeots is totally into its apogee of maturity, and towers above ninety percent of the wines of this vintage. It has retained a degree of freshness and snap that is fairly uncommon these days with many of the 1992s, which have aged at rather surprisingly brisk paces. The bouquet is classic Coche: ripe apples, passion fruit, a touch of grapefruit, almonds, iodine and a fine framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and refined, with sound underlying acids, excellent focus, and great length and complexity on the finish. At age ten it is drinking beautifully, with no signs that it will have any difficulty cruising another decade or more. (Drink between 2002-2010)

agavin: our bottle was like a 98, just amazing.
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1999 Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères. VM 96. This 1999 Puligny-Montrachet Les Ensegnières perhaps sums up why Coche-Dury is so revered. How did Jean-François extract such a stupendous wine from a Village Cru? It exhibits breathtaking precision on a nose that is actually reminiscent of one of Lalou Bize-Leroy’s wines from d’Auvenay. Both the nose and the palate effortlessly convey so much energy and tension. There is the depth and length of a Grand Cru with a tangy, spicy finish that urges you back for another sip. Magus Jean-François in full effect! (Drink between 2021-2032)

agavin: our bottle drank great, but it wasn’t in the same league as the Rougeots.
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2011 Coche-Dury Bourgogne-Aligoté. 90 points. Well developed, floral and perfumed aromas in the direction of Sauvignon Blanc. Some toast comes in addition. Light, tight and quite tart for an Aligoté. High class, though.

agavin: this came from the restaurant. They only had one bottle left though.
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2007 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos. VM 96+. Bright yellow. Subtly complex nose melds Asian pear, violet, lavender, ginger, iodine and powdered stone. Tactile and dense on entry, then creamy in the middle, conveying an impression of great volume without weight. This extremely backward, youthfully understated Clos firms up dramatically on the back end, finishing with palate-saturating citrus and talc flavors that refuse to fade. One of the longest Chablis bottlings I tasted for this issue, this truly transcends chardonnay.
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2011 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Narvaux. 93 points. Punchy and broad. With most vivid palate among all village-level wine tonight. Hint of Santalum toward the end.

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The menu.
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Ice Cold Bivalves (aka oysters and clams). Very clean and delicious.
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Tai Bream Ceviche. Unusual look with the crispy plantain on top, but extremely acidic and delicious.
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Lobster Toast, Coconut, Gluten-Free While Grain Toast.
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Bluefin Tuna with Tomato Jelly and Shiso. Looks weird but tasted great.
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Parker House Rolls and Cultured Seaweed Butter. Lovely looking rolls. Very soft and tender.
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Dungeness Crab with Garlic Aioli. This crab came from the tanks of course.
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Here is the garlic aioli and drawn butter.
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Whole Main Lobster. “Only” $100/lb! Simply done but gorgeous.
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Spot Prawns with Harissa Butter. Small but delicious.
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In case you need a weapon to slay your meat.

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Here is the charcoal factory.

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And the bed of charcoals they cook over.

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2006 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Masseto Toscana IGT. VM 99. I remember the first time I tasted the 2006 Masseto. It’s that kind of wine. The 2006 is every bit as magnificent today. Dense, richly-textured and potent to its core, the 2006 is a wine for readers who can be patient. I love the brooding intensity and sense of gravitas the 2006 conveys. Tonight, it is stellar, but still so young. (Drink between 2020-2036)

agavin: brooding monster

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Baby Artichoke with Miso and Spiced Butter. Delicious.

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Angler Potato with Sauce from Sonoma Cheeses. Like everything else it was cooked on the grill. It was sliced into sheets and nice and crispy with the rich sauce to offset.

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28 Day Dry Aged Prime NY Strip. NOT overcooked.
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Whole Pastured Chicken Roasted in the Wood Oven. This was actually one of the best roast chicken I’ve ever had. The skin was crispy in a sort of Chinese style. The meat was incredibly juicy.
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“Buffalo” type sauce for the chicken.

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The dessert menu.
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Chocolate Bar. Ganache mostly.
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Soft Serve Sundae.
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Caramel sauce was added. It was pretty delicious.

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Overall, a stunning meal. I’d heard Angler was expensive, and it was, but the food was very very good. Simple ingredients but the charcoal cooking is precise and lends a ton of subtle flavor.

Our wines were stunning. hehe. And it was just a very fun night.

For more LA dining reviews click here.
Or for epic Foodie Club meals, here.

Related posts:

  1. Amazing Akbar
  2. Major Coche to the Dome-O
  3. Power Providence
  4. The Amazing Spider-Man
  5. Great Whites at Napa Rose
By: agavin
Comments (1)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Angler, Beverly Hills, Chicken, coche, Foodie Club, Seafood, White Burgundy

Power Providence

Oct15

Restaurant: Providence [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7]

Location: 5955 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 460-4170

Date: June 15, 2021

Cuisine: Cal French

Rating: Best meal I’ve had at Providence

_

I usually make it to Providence about once a year, and so we return with the Foodie Club for a small, epic main dining room. After a long time off (for the pandemic) the core gang of myself, Erick, and Fred met up, joined by Michael Z wanted to really up the game and we focused on the awesome white Burgundy wines from d’Auvenay and Coche-Dury.

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The space used to be Patina in the 90s.

While the colors are different, Providence still looks a lot like Patina to me — as the layout is basically the same.

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This is the view from the chef’s special tasting room — adjacent to the kitchen in it’s own little nook.

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Our special menu tonight.
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One of the few places in town that still has elegant table wares.

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2000 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières. BH 95. Very Puligny in style with discreet white flower, pear and apple aromas with flavors that are so powerful that the palate experiences them in waves as they roll from the mid-palate to a thundering, top grand cru finish. Yet this is by no means monolithic as there is detail and subtle gradations of wet rocks, minerals, earth and an indefinable crystalline essence. I literally had to pause for a minute due to palate fatigue as this both stains and saturates the palate yet it remains perfectly balanced. For a premier cru, this is a veritable tour de force! A brilliant wine. (Drink between 2008-2020)
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2000 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets. BH 93. This has now peaked and is drinking beautifully with a fully mature nose of honeysuckle, peach, apricot and very subtle spice notes that can also be found on the enveloping flavors that possess a wonderfully seductive mouth feel and ample dry extract that both completely buffers the still firm acid spine and coats the palate on the long, lingering and strikingly perfumed if ever-so-slightly warm finish. One character that Coche seems to consistently be able to achieve is how his wines are at once generous yet retain a fine sense of focus and precision and this wine certainly displays this. Lovely stuff that is perfect now. Tasted thrice with consistent notes. (Drink starting 2016)
1A4A7781
1999 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Meursault Les Narvaux. VM 92. At nearly twenty years of age the 1999 Meursault Les Narvaux is just starting to enter its early plateau of maturity now! Exuberant and powerful, the 1999 possesses off the charts intensity and a level of pure class that is far beyond the realm of most village crus. Time in bottle has started to bring out slightly tropical overtones that add complexity to the yellow orchard fruit character. Readers lucky enough to own it can look forward to another 20 years of exceptional drinking. (Drink between 2018-2038)
1A4A7932
2005 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières. VM 96. The 2005 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a multidimensional bouquet that delivers intense honeycomb and brioche intertwined through the mineral-rich citrus fruit. The palate displays a perfect line of acidity, a brilliantly poised and tensile Folatières from Lalou Bize-Leroy that unlike the 1999 just builds and builds towards a focused and electrifying finish that shimmers with energy. Frankly, I cannot think of many Puligny Premier Crus that have surpassed this astonishing wine. 897 bottles produced. Tasted at Carré des Feuillants restaurant in Paris. (Drink between 2018-2038)
1A4A7787
From my cellar: 2009 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Meursault Les Narvaux. 95 points. Rich quince, citrus, popcorn, crème brûlée, and minerals galore backed by abundant acidity. Fantastic wine, and will last a long time.
1A4A7792
An amuse of crisp with seafood.
1A4A7793
1A4A7797
And amuse of toro tartare.
1A4A7803
A third amuse of shellfish “tart”.
1A4A7809
The final amuse of scallop with contrasting fruit.

1A4A7817
With a bit of sauce. Super zingy and delicious.
1A4A7821
Bald Point Oyster. Gently warmed, with golden kaluga caviar.
1A4A7828
Tai Sashimi. Seville sour orange, rosemary, ogo.
1A4A7833
1A4A7843
Uni Egg. Sea urchin, champagne beurre blanc, brioche croutons.1A4A7851
Maine Lobster. Favas, daikon, ramps.
1A4A7855
Special bread.
1A4A7857
And French butter with salt.

1A4A7866
Farfalle. Box and dungeness crab, uni, geoduck, basil. Amazing flavors with a strong Thai basil character.
1A4A7870
Black Cod. Black truffle, dutch white and green asparagus.
1A4A7882
Australian Black Winter Truffle. Porcini Cannelloni.
1A4A7886
Australian Black Winter Truffle.
1A4A7891

All put together it was spectacular.
1A4A7900-Edit
A5 Wagyu. Potato, morel, watercress, bordelaise.
1A4A7909
Fried Wagyu lump, amazing.
1A4A7922

Rhubarb, citrus, almond.1A4A7931
With sauce and very refreshing.
1A4A7941-Edit
House-made Hawaiian Chocolate. Chocolate gelato, whiskey.

1A4A7953
Sauce for the chocolate.
1A4A7952
Tea.

1A4A7955
Petite Fours. I love some good fancy candies.

1A4A7939

This was by far the best main dining room and probably the best Providence meal I’ve ever had. They had just recently reopened post-lockdown and had clearly spent the time well retooling the menu. Service was exceptional as well which was very nice, particularly in contrast with so many “middle end” places that are short staffed right now.

There was a little take home goodie too, but I forgot to photo it.

For more LA dining reviews click here,

1A4A7788

Related posts:

  1. Big Guns at Providence
  2. The Power of Providence
  3. Providence Chef’s Table
  4. Persistent Providence
  5. Burgundy at Providence
By: agavin
Comments (2)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Burgundy, coche, Coche Dury, d'Auvenay, Foodie Club, Providence, Seafood, White Burgundy, Wine

Is Majordomo a Major Deal?

Jun20

Restaurant: Majordomo

Location: 1725 Naud St, Los Angeles, CA 90012 (323) 545-4880

Date: May 16, 2018

Cuisine: Korean Fusion

Rating: Big dishes amazing

_

It’s with gigantic expectation that NY restaurateur David Chang opens his first LA outpost.

Looking on the map, I was pretty skeptical of the weird between Chinatown and Dodger’s Stadium location — a totally annoying spot for me to get to during traffic!

The area is extremely warehousey, much like the “Arts District” but even newer.

The have a sort of hipster city built down here out of old warehouses.

With lots of bespoke graffiti.

And Majordomo, of course.

Which has a pretty big enclosed and outside space.

As you can see.

Inside is one of those cavernous loud warehouse spaces.

High naked ceilings. Don’t come here when it’s raining! They also have the currently hip bathroom setup with the coed shared sinks exposed out in the main room. Not my thing. What if you want to clean up in private?

The menu.

As always, Fred wanted to go all out so this is our modest wine lineup for 4.

Fred brought: 2010 Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères. VM 92+. Reticent, pure aromas of white peach, hazelnut and minerals. Densely packed and urgent but youthfully tight, showing outstanding intensity and energy for village wine. The resounding, palate-staining finish displays outstanding structure and life. From a tiny crop, this almost painfully young wine should benefit from seven or eight years in the cellar.

agavin: I never understand how the pro reviewers will give a wine like this, which just sings, a lower score than some random Chablis.

There is a Korean fusion amuse cart.

Serving pickles.

Kombu Cured Diver Scallop, Pink Lady apple dashi. Very sweet.
 Bing is this Korean bread thing. Pretty much like a thick crepe or pita bread. They have various “toppings” you can get with the bing.

Benton’s reserve ham bing. Put the ham on the pita.

Eggs & Smoked Roe bing. This was pretty excellent. You mash it up a bit to get the roe, egg, chips etc on the bing. I put the ham on at the same time for max effect and it was very good.

Marinated Mushroom, pistachio, radish, pea tendrils. Awesome mushroom dish. Nice flavors and textures. Good fiber too.

Special Foodie Club guest Andrew enjoys his wine.

Erick brought: 1999 Château Latour Grand Vin. Parker 93-95. A terrific effort, this sexy, open-knit, opulent effort possesses plenty of tannin, but it is largely concealed by the wine’s wealth of fruit, high extraction level, and noticeable glycerin as well as unctuosity. Dense ruby/purple-colored, with a sweet, evolved nose of black fruits (cassis, leather, and blackberries), cedar, spice box, and liquid minerals, this powerful yet seamless Latour will be surprisingly accessible at an unusually young age. Long and full-bodied, with the acidity, tannin, alcohol, and wood all beautifully integrated, it will be at its finest between 2007-2030. A classic!

Andrew brought: 2003 Haut-Brion. Parker 95. Clearly the best wine made in the Haut-Brion stable in 2003 (the last vintage of the great Jean-Bernard Delmas as administrator), the 2003 Haut-Brion is a blend of 58% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc that hit 13% natural alcohol, which seemed high at the time, but given more recent vintages is modest. Dark ruby/plum in color, with no amber or orange at the edge, the wine exhibits an abundance of roasted herbs, hot rocks, black currants, plum, and balsamic notes. Quite rich, medium to full-bodied and more complete, with sweeter tannins than La Mission Haut-Brion, this full-bodied Haut-Brion has hit full maturity, where it should stay for at least a decade. Bravo!


If you go, you must order this even though it’s $190! Whole Plate Short Rib (4-6 people). Smoked bone-in APL-style ribs. Served with beef rice, shiso rice paper, ssämjang & condiments.

The huge chunk of Texas style cow comes out on the cart with the stuff.
 They carve it up into various modalities.

The “thin sliced” mode, which was amazingly flavorful.

The fattier end cap slices which were to die for tender.

And the knaw on the bone for extra flavor bones.

And some of it goes back into the kitchen and emerges as beef fried rice — crazy good.

From my cellar: 1999 Gros Frère et Sœur Richebourg. 95 points. Bright, deep ruby-red. Complex nose melds violet, bitter chocolate, earth, meat and a hint of medicinal austerity. Dense, rich and thick; a wine of compelling richness and sweetness, but also solidly structured despite its accessibility today. Finishes with lush but firm tannins and exhilarating notes of cassis and violet. Lovely pinot noir.

We also pre ordered Boiled Whole Chicken (2-3 people) rice, morels, hand torn noodles. This amazing dish has apparently changed and no longer has the fabulous noodles.

This was some absolutely first rate chicken. Pretty much Hainan chicken with the spice already rubbed on, much more Chinese than anything else.

The hand torn noodle soup was like some of the best (Chinese) mushroom noodle soup you’ll ever (not) have (as they discontinued it :-().

The dessert menu. I didn’t have the guts to BYOG (Bring Your Own Gelato) on our first trip to Majordomo.
 Strawberry Trifle. Buttermilk panna cotta, chiffon cake.
 Horchata Kakigori. Coffee, riche, dulce de leche. This was basically a good shaved ice.

Overall, we had a great time at Majordomo. They have some annoyances, like the custom website reservations a month or so ahead of time that book up instantly. We ignored those and scored a late (9pm ish) reservation 2 days out. I don’t do that long advance planning thing.

The service and wine service were both spectacular. I was really surprised as these loud hipster places often don’t have good wine service but we were really taken care of and this added a lot to the evening.

The larger pre-order dishes like the rib and chicken were amazing and insane. The other dishes were good but not as memorable. But I’d totally go back for either ribs or chicken, and I hope they keep mixing up the menu too.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Or for epic Foodie Club meals, here.

Related posts:

  1. Totoraku – Hedonists Beef Up
  2. Melisse – How much would a Woodcock…
  3. Simon Says Melisse
  4. Hedonists climb the Peak
  5. Pig Ear is Here – Taberna Arros y Vi
By: agavin
Comments (5)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: 1st growth, bbq, Burgundy, Chicken, Chinatown, coche, David Chang, Dessert, DTLA, Foodie Club, haut brion, latour, Majordomo, ribs, Richebourg, warehouse, Wine
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