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Archive for Martine’s Wines

Pure Lafleur

Oct05

Restaurant: The Aster

Location: 1717 Vine St, Los Angeles, CA 90028. (323) 962-1717

Date: February 25, 2023

Cuisine: Modern French

Rating: Great food, amazing wines

_

Sage Society always do some of the most incredible wine dinners. Tonight’s was a rare treat: Chateau Lafleur!
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It was located at the Aster, a hotel and private club in Hollywood. Above is the bar.
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The club’s view of the city.
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Getting a short tour before the dinner, I check out the club caberet.
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A sky bridge between the buildings.
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Another of its 5 bars.
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The lounge.
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The pool courtyard — soggy night!

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Finally, back to the bar, we retire into our private room.
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The intimate table for this Lafleur winemaker dinner, hosted by Sage Society.
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The big wines have been decanted.
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More wines getting ready.
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The menu for the night. The club chef is Marcel Vigneron who cooked at my house in 2015.
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2005 Gonet-Médeville Cuvée Theophile Extra Brut.
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Amuses.
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Hamachi Sashimi. A lovely bite of yellowtail with cucumber and a rice chip. There was a nice textural interplay between the soft cool fish, the crunchy chip, and the firm cucumber. The flavor was unique for this kind of bite and reminded me a bit of sunomono, so presumably there was rice wine, sugar, and vinegar.
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Squash Blossom Fritter. The texture was great, very crispy and fried. The ricotta inside was nice and soft but perhaps this could have used some counter balance (to the fry) like a romesco.
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Kumiai Oyster. With foam. Marcel is famous for foam!
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Sage Society president Liz Lee introduces the guests.
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A rather ill-cropped and out-of-focus photo of Omri Ram, the winemaker for Lafleur.
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Center left is owner of Martine’s Wines, Gregory Castells. I met him previously at this amazing Otium dinner years ago
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Chef Marcel Vigneron on the left.
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All Sauvignon Blanc (cuttings from the Loire) with lovely acidity.
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A rich depth.
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Striped Bass. Crunchy skin. Clams with “Tom Yum” foam. Very nice complement and I particularly enjoyed the clams and their tasty foam.
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2019 Les Perrières de Lafleur. VM 90+. The 2019 Les Perrières de Lafleur is too oaky on the nose and this masks the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, graphite infused black fruit with a strict and structured finish redeemed by satisfying freshness. A bit “serious” for a Pomerol at this level, but it may surprise with bottle age. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting. (Drink between 2026-2043)
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2017 Guinaudeau “G” Acte 9. VM 92. The 2017 Acte 9 is fabulous. Rich, dense and expansive, Acte 9 possesses terrific textural resonance and volume. Ripe red cherry/plum fruit, mint, tobacco and a whole range of mineral inflections race out of the glass in a vibrant, racy wine loaded with personality. I won’t be surprised if the 2017 turns out even better than this note suggests. The 2017 Acte 9 emerges from a brutal year that took with it 90% of the production during the late April frost. All of the Cabernet Franc was lost, which means that Acte 9 is 100% Merlot. The 2017 is the last vintage of this wine under the Acte moniker. (Drink between 2020-2032)
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Crispy Pork Belly. A big cube of pig with a delightfully crunchy skin atop a bed of cabbage and some kind of slightly tangy emulsion sauce. Great dish as I’m a cabbage fan and especially a porky cabbage fan.
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2019 Château Lafleur Les Pensées. VM 94. The 2019 Pensées de Lafleur is composed and focused on the nose. An old school Pomerol in the positive sense, with truffle and ash scents emerging over time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine acidity, pencil lead and black pepper towards its cohesive and persistent finish. This is a class act. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting. (Drink between 2026-2050)

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2017 Pensées de Lafleur. VM 94. The 2017 Pensées de Lafleur is simply stunning. Tasting it today, I can only conclude that Pensées is obviously more complete and enthralling than many Grand Vins in this vintage. Explosive, deep and beautifully resonant, the Pensées shows tremendous depth and energy, not to mention so much character. What else can I say, except that I absolutely loved it. (Drink between 2022-2037)
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Duck Confit. With crispy skin atop a bed of lentils. Classic French pairing and quite delicious.
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2014 Château Lafleur. VM 95. The 2014 Lafleur has a tightly wound bouquet with earthy, truffle tinged black fruit, hints of dried blood and black truffle developing with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin encasing a sweet core of candied red fruit. The Merlot is very expressive here and offers more brightness than many of its Pomerol peers, which is unusual for a Pomerol so saturnine in its youth. Just beautiful. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting. (Drink between 2024-2050)
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2013 Château Lafleur. VM 90. The 2013 Lafleur, from the infamously maligned growing season, was picked entirely in October. It has a light and slightly monotone bouquet with mulberry and blackberry scents, a touch of briary and floral scents. The aromatics are nothing to be ashamed of. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, more Merlot than Cabernet Franc-driven, balanced if missing the complexity of most vintages from this esteemed Pomerol growth. Not bad, however it is not a long-term prospect and lacks the cerebral element that Lafleur often brings to the table. Tasted at the Christies’ Lafleur masterclass in London. (Drink between 2020-2032)
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2011 Château Lafleur. VM 94. The 2011 Lafleur has an almost Left Bank-like bouquet, well-defined and poised, quite fresh with tobacco and cigar box scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins with a fine bead of acidity. Quite fresh and lightly spiced with white pepper and tobacco emerging towards the finish. This is a deeply impressive Pomerol in context of the growing season. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting. (Drink between 2022-2045)
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Ancho Braised Short Ribs. Ancho is a smoky pepper, and while this beef had lots of flavor it didn’t really have any heat. But it was a delicious shredable bit of braised beef with a delicate bed of polenta and a nice salty reduction. The tomatoes provided just enough sweet acidity to balance the richness of the dish.
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2007 Château Lafleur. VM 92. The 2007 Lafleur has a straightforward bouquet with mulberry and strawberry pastilles, touches of scorched earth and game coming through courtesy of the Cabernet Franc. I admire the definition and poise on display here. The palate is medium-bodied with quite bold tannin and satisfying ripeness considering the growing season, a mixture of red and black fruit laced with black pepper, truffle and clove, that lead towards a solid, firm finish. Though this is an off vintage, this showing suggests it will benefit from another couple of years in bottle. Tasted at the Christies’ Lafleur masterclass in London. (Drink between 2020-2038)
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2006 Château Lafleur. VM 93+. Good red-ruby. Pungent aromas of kirsch, violet, black olive, menthol and mint. Rich, sweet and suave, with a slightly medicinal cast to the seriously concentrated dark fruit flavors. This vibrant wine coats the entire mouth and builds impressively on the back half, where the big, broad tannins are nicely buffered by fruit. A splendid showing today.
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1986 Château Lafleur. 94 points. Probably worth more points, but a perfect aged Pomerol for the duck course. Evolved and showed best after an hour and a half. Plum, bit of funk, hints of sweet spice and red fruits. Balanced and great length. Not “old world” Lafleur but solid.
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1983 Château Lafleur. VM 96. The 1983 Lafleur is the vintage that alerted me to the pedigree of this Pomerol growth back in 2004, so I have a sentimental attachment to it. A recent encounter served blind in Hong Kong confirms that the Lafleur ranks alongside the 1983 Cheval Blanc as the best Right Bank of the vintage. It is quite precocious and generous on the nose with sorbet-like red fruit tinged with peppermint and truffle oil. It has lost a little cohesion in recent years but offers more secondary scents of leather and sage. The palate has wondrous balance and poise: hints of iron infusing the supple red fruit with a complex and detailed finish. Well-stored bottles will continue giving immense pleasure. Tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux. (Drink between 2018-2035)
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Venison Wellington. Quite dense and an excellent pairing with the peerless Lafleur. Probably my least favorite savory, but excellent nonetheless.
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NV Niepoort Porto 20 Year Old Tawny.

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2015 Niepoort Porto Vintage.
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3 Cheeses with Toasted Bread.
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My thoughts.
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Les vins.

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This bottle was off and replaced.
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Overall, an amazing dinner. It’s smaller, more intimate size, plus the great food, wine, and company, really helped elevate it to the very highest level.

For more LA dining reviews click here.

Related posts:

  1. Sauvages Bordeaux
  2. Banging Bicyclette
  3. 2009 Bordeaux Doesn’t Blow
  4. Passover Seder 2011 – day 2
  5. Sauvages Bordeaux
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Bordeaux, club, Gregory Castells, Lafleur, Liz Lee, Marcel Vigneron, Martine's Wines, Omri Ram, Sage Society, Wine

Rayas Auburn

Dec18

Restaurant: Auburn [1, 2]

Location: 6703 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038. (323) 486-6703

Date: November 6, 2019

Cuisine: Modern California

Rating: Really good fine dining

_

Auburn is a much anticipated recent opening in LA’s often bankrupt fine dining space. I went back in May but now I’m returning for a special Sage Society dinner featuring the wines of the illustrious Chateau Rayas.

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The rarest and most spectacular of all the Southern Rhone producers.
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The restaurant occupies the space formerly belonging to the legendary Citrus, then Alex, then Hatfields (all of which I enjoyed).
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They’ve partially roofed over, divided and modernized the space, removing the 80s-90s LA garden feel (which I kind of liked, but it’s certainly still very attractive).
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The kitchen is large, open, and bustling!

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Chef Eric Bost’s (back center) debut restaurant Auburn juxtaposes the higher echelon of traditional fine dining with an emphasis on guest exploration and conviviality while paying homage to Los Angeles’ uninhibited culinary identity in a space designed with honest materials by local makers.

Chef Eric Bost grew up in North Carolina, running around his grandparents’ restaurants at an early age. Upon graduation from business school, he enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America. After an externship at Le Cirque in NYC, Bost traveled across Europe, where he met his future wife, Elodie, and made Paris his home. During their time in France, Bost worked his way through some of the world’s best restaurants, including Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and Les Ambassadeurs at the Hôtel de Crillon. His experience led him to be chosen by Guy Savoy for his opening team in Las Vegas in 2006. Two years later, the restaurant received 2 Michelin Stars with Bost as Chef de Cuisine. Within months, he was appointed Executive Chef and maintained their prestigious rating, garnering numerous accolades along the way. With the opening of Guy Savoy Singapore in 2010, Bost established a restaurant consistently voted amongst the best in the country. Most recently, Bost was the Executive Chef at Los Angeles’ beloved République. Now, after nearly a decade at the helm of revered restaurants, Bost ventures on his own with auburn.

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Our special dinner was in the private room near the entrance.
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NV Saint-Chamant Champagne Cuvée Royále (from mag). Rare but lovely Champagne.
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An intro snack. Tartlet of some sort. Lots of herbs.
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2009 Gonet-Médeville Cuvée Théophile Grand Cru Rosé. 96 points. Another rare and spectacular bubbly. This rose was fabulous.
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The box!
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Basically chicharróns (aka fried pork rinds). They have a ton of crunch and a bit of vinegar and salt flavor, not unlike salt and vinegar potato chips.
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President of Martine’s Wines, Greg Castells introduces the wines. All the wines tonight are imported by Martine’s and came either from Rayas itself, their collection, or Liz’s. Martines has a really spectacular lineup with some of the best wines in the world.
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Liz Lee is our hostess — and she always organizes an amazing evening.

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Our special menu “produced” by Liz.
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Bread and butter.
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Zone on this rather spectacular bread. It’s some kind of (pretty) country loaf made in house. Served warm and amazing.
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The butter is avocado butter and infused with herbs. Really nice match with the bread.
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2012 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône La Pialade. 93 points. Pours light and transparent with clear flecks of orange. It opens up to a strong and singular navel orange nose on the nose. Over time it becomes accented with a touch of Christmas spice, game, and mossy undergrowth. The palate has high acid, low tannin, and has elevated but not obtrusive alcohol. Nice long finish replaying the orange, light spice and game. Called it bang on… ’12 Pialade.
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We open with the lightest of the major Rayas wines.

2013 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône La Pialade. 92 points. Drinking a full bottle, p & p, light red, strawberries, flowers, roses, tea leaves, sweet core, still fairly tannic and picked up weight so I don’t think it’s at peak drinking.
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Abalone Mushrooms. Roasted over embers, eggplant, Aleppo chili, watercress, almonds, burnt onion essence. First dish up was amazing, particularly for being vegetarian. The fabulous reduction sauce really sold it, but so did the nice meaty mushroom.
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2007 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Reserve. VM 93. Bright red. Black raspberry and floral aromas are complemented by Asian spices, anise and white pepper. Racy, finely etched red berry and cherry flavors stain the palate and become deeper and sweeter with air. Shows no rough edges and finishes with superb focus and sweet, sappy persistence. This puts most Chateauneufs in the shade.
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2009 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Reserve. VM 92. Bright red. Intriguing aromas of black raspberry, cherry-cola, Indian spices and lavender. Suave, gently sweet and focused, with very good mid-palate power and intense, spice-accented red fruit flavors. Finishes with dusty tannins that add focus and gentle grip to the very long, sappy finish.
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Lamb Tartare. Charred persimmons, pickled marigolds, grains of paradise. Very unusual tartare presentation.
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2008 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan Reserve. VM 91. Bright red. High-pitched aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, rose petal, and Asian spices, lifted by a mineral quality. Suave, silky and alluringly sweet, offering penetrating red fruit flavors and slow-mounting florality. This refined, focused wine stains the palate with perfumed flavors of raspberry and garrigue. This has the juicy acidity and spine to reward cellaring but I find it awfully delicious now.
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2009 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan Reserve. VM 94. Vivid red. Intensely fragrant nose displays an exotic array of red fruit, incense and floral scents. Sweet raspberry and cherry flavors offer both depth and impressive energy, with silky tannins adding support. Spiciness and florality build on the long, juicy finish, which emphasizes raspberry and candied licorice. This Chateauneuf gains weight with air, but maintains freshness and clarity.
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Quail. Treviso glazed with blackberries, crushed juniper, lardo. This bird had a nice char note and a smoky richness from the lardo. Another great reduction too.
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Now into the bad boys:

2008 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve. 95 points. Vivid red. Pure, expressive aromas of red and dark berries, potpourri, licorice and rose. Juicy, spicy and fresh, with sexy raspberry and cherry flavors accentuated by smoky minerality. Intense and light on its feet, finishing very long and aromatic, augmented by firm mineral cut and very impressive clarity.
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2009 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve. VM 96. Deep red with a bright rim. A kaleidoscopic bouquet evokes red and dark berry preserves, blood orange and lavender, with deeper cherry pit and licorice qualities adding power. Sweet, expansive and pure, offering intense raspberry, bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors supported by a firm spine of acidity. Shows excellent clarity and power on the finish, which is given shape by fine-grained, sweet tannins. I underestimated this wine from barrel last year.
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Duck. Koji aged pan-roasted kohlrabi, young mustard leaves, roasted duck-mustard jus. Lovely.
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2006 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve. VM 94. Medium red. Vibrant strawberry, raspberry, anise and floral aromas could fill a room. Juicy and sharply delineated, offering sweet red berry and cherry preserve flavors with compelling accents of licorice, sassafras, lavender and smoky minerals. Extremely elegant wine with outstanding finishing cut and persistence. Not many grand cru Burgundies could match this for finesse.
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Veal Sweetbreads, pig’s trotter and celery root ragout, matsutake mushrooms, chicken skin, roasted veal jus. I’m not usually a trotter or a sweetbreads fan, but this was a great dish. Rich and meaty. Fabulous reduction again.
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1995 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve. JG 94. The 1995 Châteauneuf du Pape from Château Rayas is an outstanding wine that is just about into its plateau of peak maturity, but could still do with at least a couple more years in the cellar to allow everything to fall precisely into place. The bouquet is a classic Rayas mélange of cherries, raspberries, coffee, ground pepper, garrigue, roasted venison and woodsmoke. On the palate the wine is ripe, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with moderate tannins, fine grip and a very long, blossoming and nascently complex finish. This still has a bit of chunky, muscle-bound adolescence to shake off and a few more years in the cellar should do this nicely, allowing the wine to snap into focus and start to show more of the inherent elegance of this great terroir. It is a ripe vintage for Rayas, but handles this very nicely indeed. (Drink between 2020-2050)
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1997 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve. VM 90+. Full red. Spicy aromas of framboise, leather and pepper; very rich but fresher than the Pignan. Thick but lively on the palate; very suave and rich. Not nearly as open today as the above. Peppery finish displays excellent persistence. This is very strong for the vintage.
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1998 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve. VM 92+. Medium red. Deep, smoky aromas of strawberry, roasted plum, raspberry and roasted meat. Big, sweet and peppery in the middle palate, but not yet expansive. Larger-scaled and more roasted than the Pignan but today it not showing the sheer concentration or sappy, primary red berry sweetness of the great Rayas vintages of recent decades. Still, this opens out very nicely on the long finish, which features dusty, fine tannins.

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Dry Aged Ribeye. Red wine braised oxtail, red flame grapes, roasted and raw turnips, soy-cured daikon. More reduction! Very nice bit of meat.
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1997 Château Gilette Crème de Tête. 93 points. Lovely. A bit like cream soda.
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Apple. Chantilly (cream). The cream was almost tart (like a cream fraiche). Rather delicious for being so minimalist. One of the senior employees did tell me that in the future my gelato was welcome :-).
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Mignardise of candied rhubarb. Like little funny sour fruit rollups.
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The wine lineup.

The wines were spectacular. It was very interesting — and perhaps unique — to try the progression of the Rayas wines like this all in one evening. I’ve had them all at one time or another, but never in series. This is a very unique winemaker with it’s own peculiar and wonderful style.

Overall, food was fabulous Audacious for LA fine dining, very interesting style that blends foraged seasonal ingredients, a love of great reductions, more than a bit of wood-fire, and a real respect for getting the most out of vegetables. This is certainly the best new fine dining place I’ve tried recently in LA.

Service was great.

The overall evening, like all Sage Society events, was fabulous and meticulously arranged.

For my catalog of Chinese restaurant reviews in China, click here.

Or for epic Foodie Club meals, here.

Related posts:

  1. Valentino Rayas
  2. Awesome Auburn
  3. Sauvages in the Forest
  4. Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Sun
  5. Salt’s Cure
By: agavin
Comments (0)
Posted in: Food
Tagged as: Auburn, Chateauneuf du Pape, Greg Castells, Liz Lee, Martine's Wines, rayas, Sage Society
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