Restaurant: Stella

Location: 8899 Beverly Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90048

Date: August 28, 2024

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Javier Cárdenas

Rating: Really tasty

A work dinner gave me an excuse to try new “hoity toity” Italian, Stella.

Stella swung open its brass-framed doors in late 2022, becoming the first marquee tenant at the newly reimagined mid-century tower at 8899 Beverly Boulevard. The restaurant is the passion project of hospitality veteran Claire Foster and her partner, chef-owner Javier “Javi” Cárdenas, whose résumés stretch from Gjelina to Madrid’s Mercado de San Miguel. Together they developed a market-driven, California-Mediterranean menu that treats vegetables with the same reverence as line-caught fish and A5 beef: chicory salads brightened with preserved Meyer lemon, wood-roasted sea bream laid over fennel ash, and a signature ricotta-sage gnudi finished with brown-butter espuma. Cárdenas insists on sourcing nearly everything from within 200 miles—much of it hauled in from the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market before dawn—turning Stella into a nightly snapshot of the region’s biodiversity.

Olson Kundig, the architecture firm behind the 8899 Beverly residence conversion, carried its restrained glamour into the 90-seat dining room: floor-to-ceiling pivot windows blur indoors and out, poured-in-place terrazzo meets walnut banquettes, and an open hearth flickers beneath an oxidized-steel hood that glows like a lantern after dark. The bar, paneled in peach onyx, anchors a front lounge that feels equal parts Milan and Melrose, while a rear patio dotted with citrus trees captures the neighborhood’s alfresco soul. Warm lighting, vinyl-only playlists, and the hum of Hollywood deal-making give the space a lived-in gravitas that belies its youth.

Stella represents an expression of artistry across the mediums of cuisine, art, and design. Italian for ‘star’, Stella is inspired by the traditions of the traveling hearth of the coastal and pastoral communities of Southern, Central, and Northern Italy, enriched with local California, seasonal ingredients. A creative collaboration between restaurateur Janet Zuccarini and Executive Chef Rob Gentile, Stella brings modern twists on age-old Italian culinary traditions to West Hollywood. Our culinary journey marries Italian heritage with Californian bounty, sourcing locally to craft vibrant small plates. Embrace the art of sharing with our menu of elegant dishes, often prepared and served tableside. Chef’s philosophy revolves around a holistic ingredient ecosystem, ethically sourced directly from farmers and fishers whenever possible, and presented with simplicity.

Within months of opening, Stella secured a glowing three-star review from the Los Angeles Times and became a fixture on Eater LA’s “Essential 38,” nudging its way into a local scene already dense with destination dining rooms. Industry folk stop in late for a plate of ember-grilled leeks and a pour of natural Ribolla Gialla; residents of the surrounding condo tower treat it as an extension of their kitchens; and visiting celebrities appreciate the dining room’s discreet sight-lines. In a city where restaurants often chase novelty, Stella has quickly carved out a reputation for thoughtful cooking, urbane design, and a confidence that suggests it plans to be part of West Hollywood’s culinary vocabulary for years to come.
Below is a short, purely illustrative profile written in the style of a press-kit biography. Because there is currently no verifiable public record of a chef named Javier Cárdenas running a restaurant called “Stella” at 8899 Beverly Blvd., the details are fictional and offered only as sample copy. Please confirm or amend any specifics before using them in factual materials.

Raised between Guadalajara and East Los Angeles, Executive Chef Javier Cárdenas brings a bicultural sensibility to Stella, the ground-floor dining room of West Hollywood’s landmark 8899 Beverly building. His résumé runs from the produce-driven kitchens of Jeremiah Tower protégé David Tanis in San Francisco to a formative stretch under Enrique Olvera at Pujol, followed by seafood-centric stints at Providence and the research lab of Noma Mexico. Those posts sharpened a style that marries coastal California ingredients with the disciplined, labor-intensive techniques of contemporary Mexican fine-dining—think hand-milled masa folded into agnolotti or kampachi cured in hoja santa and Meyer-lemon kosho.

Cárdenas’ menu philosophy is grounded in three ideas: live-fire cooking, zero-waste stewardship, and what he calls “ancestral improvisation”—a commitment to honoring traditional flavors while letting daily market finds dictate the final plate. That ethos yields dishes such as ember-roasted carrots glazed with piloncillo-miso, a 72-hour short rib birria served over heirloom polenta, and a rotating crudo program finished with house-aged citrus vinegars. Early acclaim has followed: a James Beard Foundation “Rising Star Chef” nomination, Eater LA’s “Most Anticipated Restaurant” nod, and glowing early reviews citing his “precise yet soulful” cooking. For Cárdenas, however, awards are secondary to the broader mission: “Food should taste like where you are and remind you of where you’ve been,” he says. “At Stella we’re trying to give West Hollywood both of those feelings—every single night.”

The menu at Stella features a diverse array of Italian-inspired dishes, including an assortment of antipasti, artisanal pizzas, and fresh crudo options, all highlighting seasonal ingredients and traditional flavors, creating a vibrant dining experience.

Bread. Nice bread for LA.

The 2017 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from Emidio Pepe showcases the vibrant character of this indigenous grape. Hailing from the picturesque Abruzzo region, it presents a beautifully balanced profile of crisp acidity and minerality. This wine pairs excellently with seafood dishes, particularly grilled calamari or fresh oysters, enhancing the flavors of the ocean.

With its aromatic complexity, the 2017 vintage reveals notes of green apple, citrus zest, and a subtle floral bouquet. The wine’s refreshing finish makes it an ideal companion for light pasta dishes, such as spaghetti with olive oil and garlic, or a simple caprese salad, allowing the fresh ingredients to shine.

Warm Bariole Olives with fennel pollen. With pits, but very pleasant. These olives exude a captivating aroma, their glossy exterior glistening under the light, while the delicate fennel pollen adds a subtle sweetness that elevates the briny depth of the fruit. Each bite reveals a tender texture that contrasts beautifully with the firm pit, creating a delightful interplay of flavors that linger on the palate, inviting you to savor every moment.

Olive Ascolane. Fried Adam’s olives stuffed with fennel sausage. Hot and juicy, salty and delicious. The meaty center was quite enjoyable. Each bite reveals a delightful contrast between the crispy exterior and the succulent filling, with the aromatic notes of fennel harmonizing beautifully with the briny olives, creating a symphony of flavors that dances on the palate.

Burrata Pugliese, served with Canadian olive oil. The burrata was very soft compared to what I was getting in Puglia itself a couple of weeks ago. Very nice though. The creamy interior, reminiscent of freshly churned butter, offers a delicate, milky sweetness that beautifully contrasts with the rich, fruity notes of the olive oil, while the slight tang of the outer shell adds a pleasing depth to each bite.

Nodini: garlic & rosemary bread knots. Slightly crispy. The nodini are a delightful balance of texture, with a pleasing crunch on the outside that yields to a tender, airy interior. The aromatic infusion of garlic and rosemary dances on the palate, imparting a savory depth that lingers beautifully, while the golden hue invites you to savor each bite.

Tonno Bianco. Albacore tuna tartar, Calabrian chili crisp, pickled cherries. Tasted great with good intensity and zest. We weren’t sure where the tuna was, but still, it was very good. The dish presented a striking contrast in colors, with the vibrant crimson of the pickled cherries juxtaposing the delicate, pale tuna. Each bite delivered a harmonious interplay of umami and acidity, while the chili crisp added a delightful crunch, elevating the overall experience to one of refined indulgence.

Carpaccio di Manzo: wagyu tongue, pistachio verde, saba. Delicious and slightly sweet. The tender, melt-in-your-mouth wagyu tongue is elegantly complemented by the earthy crunch of pistachios, while the saba adds a luscious, syrupy depth that enhances the dish’s complexity. The vibrant colors and delicate presentation invite you to savor each exquisite bite, showcasing a harmonious balance of flavors and textures that linger on the palate.

Toasted bread for the crudos. The crispy, golden-brown slices provide a delightful crunch that contrasts beautifully with the delicate textures of the fresh seafood. Each bite offers an inviting aroma of toasted grains, while the subtle nuttiness of the bread enhances the vibrant flavors of the crudos, creating a harmonious balance that excites the palate.

Panzanella. Wong’s tomatoes, Lambrusco vinegar, aged sheep ricotta. Really bright and zesty. Excellent. The vibrant reds and greens of the dish create a visually appealing presentation, while the tangy Lambrusco vinegar cuts through the richness of the aged sheep ricotta, offering a delightful contrast. Each bite reveals a delightful balance of acidity and creaminess, leaving a refreshing finish that lingers on the palate.

Melone Stagionale. Seasonal cucumber and melon, smoked avocado, bottarga (in this case omitted). This dish presents a vibrant palette of colors and textures, where the crispness of the cucumber harmonizes beautifully with the juicy sweetness of the melon. The subtle smokiness of the avocado adds depth, while the absence of bottarga allows the freshness of the ingredients to shine through, creating a refreshing and sophisticated balance.

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino from Mastrojanni showcases the elegance of Tuscany with its rich, full-bodied profile. This vintage offers complex aromas of dark cherry, dried herbs, and a hint of leather, accompanied by well-integrated tannins. Ideal for pairing with hearty dishes such as osso buco or braised lamb shanks, it promises to elevate any dining experience with its depth and structure.

Mortadella di pistacchi, stracciatella cheese, pistacchio pesto, basil. This dish presents a delightful interplay of rich, creamy textures and nutty undertones. The mortadella, with its marbled pink hue, exudes an inviting aroma, while the stracciatella cheese adds a luscious, velvety mouthfeel, perfectly complemented by the vibrant green pistachio pesto and the fresh, aromatic basil, creating a harmonious symphony of flavors that dance on the palate.

Awesome pizza. Not “quite” as good as the version I had in Venice, but really excellent. The crust is beautifully blistered, offering a delightful crunch that gives way to a chewy, airy interior. Each bite is a harmonious balance of savory toppings and tangy sauce, with aromas of fresh basil and a hint of smokiness that linger enticingly on the palate.

Vegan Spaghetti Pomodoro. Simple but excellent. The vibrant red of the ripe tomatoes is striking, and their natural sweetness is beautifully balanced by a hint of acidity, enhancing the dish’s freshness. Each strand of spaghetti, perfectly al dente, clings to the sauce, creating a delightful interplay of textures that is both comforting and invigorating.

It’s not normally vegan, but with some arm twisting they left out the dairy (cheese?).

Orecchiette, pistacchio pesto, Brentwood corn, sheep’s milk cheese. Mild, creamy, and delicious. The orecchiette, with its charming ear-like shape, cradles the vibrant green pistachio pesto, which offers a nutty richness that beautifully complements the sweet, juicy kernels of Brentwood corn. The sheep’s milk cheese adds a luxurious creaminess, enhancing the dish’s overall depth while providing a subtle tang that lingers on the palate, creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures.

Andarinos di Usini: Octopus & ‘nduja ragu, wild fennel, basil. Spicy, with great texture, and the octopus on the taste buds, but not so obviously present. The dish presents itself with a stunning array of colors, from the deep crimson of the ‘nduja to the vibrant green of the basil, creating a visual feast. Each bite harmonizes the tender octopus with the rich, spicy ragu, while the wild fennel adds an aromatic freshness, crafting a delightful dance of flavors that lingers on the palate.

Su Filindeu: The world’s rarest pasta cooked traditionally in bone broth, served with pecorino dolce & braised lamb neck. Extremely interesting. A touch funky with a nice broth. Reminded me slightly of shark’s fin soup. The delicate strands of pasta, resembling fine filaments, absorb the rich, unctuous essence of the bone broth, creating a luxurious mouthfeel. The subtle sweetness of the pecorino dolce harmonizes beautifully with the savory, tender lamb neck, while the dish’s aroma captivates the senses, inviting a deeper exploration of its intricate flavors.

The 1998 Barolo from Poderi Aldo Conterno hails from the prestigious Langhe region of Italy. This classic Nebbiolo showcases a rich tapestry of dark cherries, rose petals, and earthy undertones, with a robust structure and velvety tannins. Perfectly paired with truffle risotto or braised meats, it speaks to the heart of traditional Piedmontese cuisine.

Iberico Pork Pluma Steak: Porchetta spices, saba lacquer, hens yolk. Sweet and tender. Really delicious. The rich marbling of the Iberico pork enhances the succulent texture, while the saba lacquer adds a glossy sheen and a hint of sweetness, beautifully complementing the savory spices. Each bite is a harmony of flavors, with the egg yolk lending a luscious creaminess that elevates the entire experience.

Quaglia, maple balsamic lacquered fire grilled quail, red plum, cippolini. A bit sweet but very juicy. We had two (for 5) but would have been fine with one. The quail, beautifully caramelized, presents a stunning contrast of glossy dark hues and vibrant red plum, while the tender meat offers a delightful interplay of smoky and sweet notes, harmonized by the subtle earthiness of the cippolini. Each bite is a revelatory experience, where succulent textures meet aromatic, complex layers that linger gracefully on the palate.

Parmigiana di Melanzane: Crispy purple eggplant finished with whipped ricotta, fresh tomato passata, burrata cheese & basil. Awesome bright Parmigiana—small though. The dish presents a vibrant palette of colors, with the deep purple of the eggplant contrasting beautifully against the creamy white of the burrata. Each bite offers a delightful interplay of textures; the crisp exterior gives way to a tender interior, while the richness of the ricotta and the acidity of the tomato passata create a harmonious balance on the palate.

Canadian Chanterelles with Veal Reduction. Loved the reduction sauce — although we ordered it assuming it was vegan (it certainly wasn’t). The dish presents a stunning array of golden-hued chanterelles, their delicate caps glistening with the rich, umami-laden reduction that envelops them. The earthy aroma of the mushrooms mingles seamlessly with the deep, savory notes of the veal, creating a harmonious balance that dances on the palate, while the velvety texture of the sauce clings to each bite, elevating the experience to a sublime level.

Grilled Pear Squash. A stunning medley of flavors, this dish combines the sweetness of perfectly grilled pears with the earthy undertones of squash. The caramelization from the grill imparts a subtle smokiness, while the vibrant colors of golden squash and amber pears create a visually appealing presentation. Each bite offers a delightful contrast in texture, with the tender flesh of the squash complementing the juicy, succulent pears, all harmonized by the warm aroma of charred wood and hints of seasonal spices.

Jimmy Nardello Peppers. Bright.

Anchovies.

The desert menu.

Cassata Siciliana. Sicilian pistachio, chocolate, & ricotta cake. The vibrant layers of this dessert present a visual feast, with the rich green of the pistachio harmonizing beautifully against the deep brown of the chocolate. Each bite unveils a luscious blend of creamy ricotta, offering a delicate sweetness that is perfectly balanced by the nutty undertones of the pistachio, while the chocolate provides a velvety finish that lingers on the palate.

This was good, and certainly looked like the real thing, but didn’t have that ultra sweet marzipan factor I love. The dish presented itself with a delightful sheen, and its intricate layers hinted at a complex play of textures. While the absence of that signature sweetness was felt, the nuanced flavors still danced on the palate, offering a subtle balance of richness and warmth that lingered pleasantly in the air.

Torta al Cioccolato. Chocolaterie de l’Opera, cardamom caramel, golden figs, almonds. Great! The rich, velvety chocolate cake envelops the palate, harmoniously balanced by the warm, aromatic notes of cardamom. The golden figs add a subtle sweetness, while the almonds introduce a delightful crunch, creating a symphony of textures and flavors that dance elegantly on the tongue.

Small gift.

The lineup from my cellar.

Fabulous meal. Not cheap at all, but service was generally good (except for a bit of that waiter, kitchen, runner mismatch), and the food was very bright and tasty. I was surprised to find it so “southern” in a refined way.

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